Giul doing the 4th ascent of Off the Wagon (No wagon) an historical problem in Val Bavona, Switzerland, found by Dave Graham and FA'd by Shawn Raboutou.
When you get on this boulder, I think it'd be interesting to see you try the Charles Albert barefoot toe crimp method. ua-cam.com/video/cVSC9vIb-PU/v-deo.html
Giuliano has an amazing, unique climbing style. I think it comes to life on boulders like this that are powerful but very precise and technical. Maybe he doesn't have the raw strength like Jimmy or Daniel, he seems to see the boulder in a creatively expressed way; a lot more like Dave Graham. Amazing to watch these top-tier technicians sus a boulder out like no one before. And I agree with another commenter. Footage of this Boulder never gets old.
i wonder whether jimmy or daniel could even climb it this way? I feel like they have so much tension in their body that they couldn't use their feet like this - such delicate footwork like on a vertical...
@@JahNug The traditional way to do off the wagon is with an insane campus rose move on those same crimps. His method with the heel and matching was a lot less reliant on raw power. Although I agree that his finger strength and regular strength are still totally unbelievable.
@@TheMatthewGoodacre Shawn used that beta too ! I initially thought Giuliano was gonna succeed with new beta where he initially goes for the crimp/pocket before starting the campus traverse
@@alexantone5532 He most certainly did, but he wasn't the one who found it, originally attempted it, and named it. Thankfully Nalle still called it Off the Wagon even after nabbing the FA. Still one of my absolute favorite boulders ever even after seeing Dosage so many years ago.
@@nottherealjk Dave Graham found it before Chris. There's footage in the Reel Rock film "Born among Boulders" of him trying it and he even says "Chris would like this boulder".
Had to rewatch the other mellow sends because I remembered the dyno move looking SO much harder... amazing how your feet stay on and how different the climbing looks. So nice, congrats!
Congrats! 8 min video for us 6 years for you. It may be hard for some to see how amazing that is, not only the grade but just to keep at it for that long, working through everything that comes with climbing including injuries and real life. Amazing feat
Giuliano quickly became one of my favourites to watch. Incredible, incredible technique and an almost-spiritual approach to climbing, right up my alley.
I'd recommend that everybody go watch the episode of Reel Rock that covers Giuliano's journey to climb this. It's incredible to see the effort he puts in.
@@doublevgreen it probably all feels like choss to us mere mortals. I would hate to see what they think choss is. My fingers are bleeding just thinking about it
Wow what a rollercoaster! Going from "fuck the beta" to the gnarly dry fire, back to the original beta, and then "fuck the beta" again on the crimps... Another Mellow classic! With the wagon to the side, can we get an "Off the wagon sit - sit"?
Interesting he was able to switch back to his original beta due to the obvious increase in strength. Even with the last few moves he ended up not flagging his right (compared with his first try) and just did a ‘non-Giu’ slightly desperate move to get the send. Such an unique climber with a distinct style that tends to make every send so easy with mastery flow.
With the wagon moved, is it now the true off the wagon (not sds)?? It’s still one of the most aesthetically pleasing boulders out there. Congrats man, good on ya. Sick send!
This was a fantastic film--LOVED watching the process--but I just can't help thinking is spotting just not a thing anymore? I'm old, and therefore started bouldering before there were pads (and I am REALLY glad those were invented!), but a spot still seems like a good idea....
I’ve always doubted the benefits of having spotters anyway. Though in the case at least the ground would be flat and firm enough for some proper spotting.
I wonder if it's possible to move those logs at the base and do a sit start?! And would it up the grade? If the low moves into the V16 are hard, it would have to be at least V17
hmm, that fall...its sad that capacities like that are no spotting... he easily could break his ankle and project would be done... its basic, isnt it ? Also, you are inspiring other climbers...what do they take if they dont see a single spotting pair of hands up there ? ... just my honest opinion :) sending love
Definitely impressive that he did the whole thing pretty much static. It made it a cooler climb. Bet if you had the power though the campusing and cutting beta probably would go sooner cuz it's simpler
Waitwaitwaitwait y'all just gonna act like starting without the wagon is the same as sitting on it? I could swear Shawn FA'd OTWsit not low. Or did I miss something?
Gotta say, that fall outside the pads made my heart skip a beat. Thanks for letting us see the process behind this! Amazing effort and send, inspiring
How long until we see you on this?
Even though I thought your comment had me prepared, I was still not prepared to actually see it O.O
When you get on this boulder, I think it'd be interesting to see you try the Charles Albert barefoot toe crimp method. ua-cam.com/video/cVSC9vIb-PU/v-deo.html
@@SpartaSpartan117 We have now seen him on this
@@chuffer595 homie has got to send I hope!
Such a great boulder! Good work!
heh you're that guy
Surprised to see you here! Love your content!
Knew you were a climber. Your forearms don't just get jacked forearms by themselves
Surely do some kind of climbing related shenanigans on IDAT
i knew you climbed! i could tell by haw shredded you actaily are!
I _never_ get tired of Off The Wagon send footage.
I do
Giuliano has an amazing, unique climbing style. I think it comes to life on boulders like this that are powerful but very precise and technical. Maybe he doesn't have the raw strength like Jimmy or Daniel, he seems to see the boulder in a creatively expressed way; a lot more like Dave Graham. Amazing to watch these top-tier technicians sus a boulder out like no one before.
And I agree with another commenter. Footage of this Boulder never gets old.
i wonder whether jimmy or daniel could even climb it this way? I feel like they have so much tension in their body that they couldn't use their feet like this - such delicate footwork like on a vertical...
@@chrissmithdoe2100 They might be able to climb it this way. But they might not see it this way.
He reminds me a lot of Dave Graham in this vid. His body and the way he moves, wizard technique over crazy strenght.
I dunno, he pretty much cut loose and traversed the whole line of micro crimps, he must have some unbelievable finger strength
@@JahNug The traditional way to do off the wagon is with an insane campus rose move on those same crimps. His method with the heel and matching was a lot less reliant on raw power. Although I agree that his finger strength and regular strength are still totally unbelievable.
@@iamliam42 the way he did it in this video seems to be the modern method that at least a few other climbers have used as well.
Damn... that dry fire during the cross move looked terrifying ! Congrats on the send !
Daniel woods did this exact beta
@@TheMatthewGoodacre Shawn used that beta too ! I initially thought Giuliano was gonna succeed with new beta where he initially goes for the crimp/pocket before starting the campus traverse
Amazing effort and incredible climb. Really goes to show what a visionary Sharma was for finding that line over 15 years ago.
I thought nalle FA’d it?
@@alexantone5532 He most certainly did, but he wasn't the one who found it, originally attempted it, and named it. Thankfully Nalle still called it Off the Wagon even after nabbing the FA. Still one of my absolute favorite boulders ever even after seeing Dosage so many years ago.
@@nottherealjk Dave Graham found it before Chris. There's footage in the Reel Rock film "Born among Boulders" of him trying it and he even says "Chris would like this boulder".
@@aspzx Ah thanks man. Learn something new every day. Figures the wizard would have found it. He is a magician like that.
This Boulder is a who who's. Found by Dave Graham, beta pioneered by Chris Sharma, FA'ed by Nalle; sit by Shawn
Can't wait for the Dave Graham Hypno footage! Must be a good one
Had to rewatch the other mellow sends because I remembered the dyno move looking SO much harder... amazing how your feet stay on and how different the climbing looks. So nice, congrats!
Congrats! 8 min video for us 6 years for you. It may be hard for some to see how amazing that is, not only the grade but just to keep at it for that long, working through everything that comes with climbing including injuries and real life. Amazing feat
Sick send! in love with the quality of al mellow videos
Cruuuuuushed it. What a privilege to get to watch your process here. Congrats on the send Giuliano!!!!!!!!!!
When you’re too weak to hold the lock off, but so damn strong you grab holds that aren’t even there. Sick send!!!
Giuliano quickly became one of my favourites to watch. Incredible, incredible technique and an almost-spiritual approach to climbing, right up my alley.
"doued!" so sick. has to be one of the coolest lines in the world.
Another great dude to footage time ratio from Mellow. DUDE.
What an amazing projecting process. So many heartbreaking moments and then he made the send look effortless
The progression was great! Loved how the battle was documented. Great vid
The amount of skin care happening in 1:15 is tight.
Also the amount of weed smoking... 😂
Been waiting for this one !!
love this longer form battle with a project ! more please !
If anyone wants to see an extended version of this footage, it’s featured on ReelRock Season 7. Very cool to see it pop up on Mellow too :)
That's so cool to see different beta on this climb! Mad props to the more static approach!! That looked insanely tough!
The post groundfall fistbump wrap was the best part lol
The beauty of finding the right beta (for us). I have had similar stories. So satisfying when it happens. And teaches us a lot!
Now it’s more like without the wagon 😭
Wow, I’ve never seen anyone send it with that beta. Incredible!
Congrats man, quite the journey :)
keenan’s encouragements are A1 content
I'd recommend that everybody go watch the episode of Reel Rock that covers Giuliano's journey to climb this. It's incredible to see the effort he puts in.
Bravo! Técnica e muita força!!
With the wagon gone does that mean we're now closer to seeing the actual sit start to this boulder?!
They said its choss lower down
@@doublevgreen in that case they gotta break out the hammer & crowbar
@@shawntrevordaniel just like in the good old times
@@doublevgreen it probably all feels like choss to us mere mortals. I would hate to see what they think choss is. My fingers are bleeding just thinking about it
@@davidtorres8396 i think you havent gotten the definition of choss quite right
A valiant effort
Wow what a rollercoaster! Going from "fuck the beta" to the gnarly dry fire, back to the original beta, and then "fuck the beta" again on the crimps... Another Mellow classic!
With the wagon to the side, can we get an "Off the wagon sit - sit"?
Fall at 3:30 is the moment you realize why having your friends spot is more important than making a video.
That first clip when you stick the first move 🤣😁
Love this thing, and I love seeing all the dif betas used
Il déchire Giuliano!
strong going man, really nice vid. intense
Interesting he was able to switch back to his original beta due to the obvious increase in strength. Even with the last few moves he ended up not flagging his right (compared with his first try) and just did a ‘non-Giu’ slightly desperate move to get the send. Such an unique climber with a distinct style that tends to make every send so easy with mastery flow.
3:16 his spotters were on it. 🤦🏼♂️
I don't remember the name of the mustache guy, but he is one of my favorite side characters in the Mello universe.
Keenan Takahashi.
With the wagon moved, is it now the true off the wagon (not sds)?? It’s still one of the most aesthetically pleasing boulders out there. Congrats man, good on ya. Sick send!
Man, must have been hard going for the jump again after that fall :0
Sweet send dude ✌🏽😃🤙🏽
Not a single "dude" after the top out.. i must not have been there! Grande Giul
3:32 classic moment of missing the pad, and 20 ft to the right is an unused pad.
That dry fire looked fatal
This was a fantastic film--LOVED watching the process--but I just can't help thinking is spotting just not a thing anymore? I'm old, and therefore started bouldering before there were pads (and I am REALLY glad those were invented!), but a spot still seems like a good idea....
this is a very hard to spot boulder. it just doesn't really work or make much difference
GRANDISSIMO!!! E che botta la caduta....
That many people there and no spotter is fucking wild. Dont get that shit.
Makes a better video without spoters
I’ve always doubted the benefits of having spotters anyway. Though in the case at least the ground would be flat and firm enough for some proper spotting.
I wonder if it's possible to move those logs at the base and do a sit start?! And would it up the grade? If the low moves into the V16 are hard, it would have to be at least V17
Off (verb) the wagon.
3:15 all time dryfire
WHERE'S THE WAGON 8c+
This video has confirmed my love for Keenan Takahashi
Lol is it still “off the wagon sit” if you move the wagon and start standing… makes me think a sit start with the wagon moved might be on??
Now who's going to do Off the Wagon (no wagon) sit?
The wagon is gone... But not forgotten !
Also does this open up the possibility for a mega low sit start?
Evidently it’s pretty chossy down below. But it would be pretty sick if someone found a sit start.
Hi. Why don't people move the wagon out of the way and do a proper sit start?
Sick!
so the sit start now has a stand start :D ?
does the new stand start maybe have a new sit start ?
It would be awesome if someone did it sit start from the ground, graded it 9A (or maybe first 9A+ ?), and named it "Move the wagon".
What the hell did he do in the off-season!? Congrats.
Just out of curiosity is there a possible sit start from the ground?
What happened to the wagon?
Oh I see it got moved to the side
Wait but is this not off the wagon sit? And like he didn't start on or off the wagon
Oh shit!! No more wagon? :o
They just rolled it to the side. From what I gather, it gets moved back and forth now.
hmm, that fall...its sad that capacities like that are no spotting... he easily could break his ankle and project would be done... its basic, isnt it ? Also, you are inspiring other climbers...what do they take if they dont see a single spotting pair of hands up there ? ... just my honest opinion :) sending love
He didn't go to the very top of that boulder ? Does it still count ? :D
where did the wagon go
Is there a V18 sit start under the wagon?
Sick
Paper beats rock 💪🏻
is spotting out or just uncool? Sorry, but i don't understand why none of the crew does it.
He didn’t do the rose move😢
Where’s the wagon?
Where did the wagon go??
Why isn't it called No Wagon?
Where's the wagon tho?
Cant call it off the wagon and not Even start on the wagon. Awsome boulder and send but cmon the wagon is iconic
Definitely impressive that he did the whole thing pretty much static. It made it a cooler climb. Bet if you had the power though the campusing and cutting beta probably would go sooner cuz it's simpler
Made that look like V2 doued!!
I'll never understand it but impressive nonetheless!
CRAZY DIGGER
Casual
bean burrito dood
“It’s so easy” llllooolllll
I feel like shorter climbers would struggle with this climb
Psyched!
Get The Jug
Waitwaitwaitwait y'all just gonna act like starting without the wagon is the same as sitting on it? I could swear Shawn FA'd OTWsit not low. Or did I miss something?
Bro it’s the same exact moves, you’re just not sitting. Also it was always called low because there was rock below it for an actual sitstart
@@hyau23 one of the vids says low
More like 'Off the floor'
redbull on the wagon
You can’t tell me his climbing isn’t an art form
Yet another beta option. I wonder what that high crimp would go at
I NEED TO KNOW THE STORY OF THIS WAGON, WHO OWNS IT, WHY IS IT THERE, DOES NO ONE CARE ABOUT CLIMBERS JUMPING ALL OVER IT.
silence pls :)
What boulder is this?????
Off the wagon -sit start. the waggon is moved but the moves are the same ones
@@alonsorodriguez652 oh cool I thought this might be bishop mega classic 4 star v10 testpiece stained glass 😅
doesn not seem a v16
Cool vid, but 6 min too long