Nice video with one hand on the camera. However never re heat twice. If you can not remove the tool for any reason such as handling the camera cool the arbor and start the process again. This way the integrity of the tool holder is always maintained. Hope this helps.
These have such a big design flaw tho, in that if your tool breaks and snaps below the base, you have nothing to grip and remove the broken tool. My shops only solution has been to double or triple heat it, remove the pool stud and flip it upside down, and then aggressively try to smack it out from the bottom. There needs to be a way to remove broken tools effectively and safely.
I was worried when mine discolored that I got it too hot except the m6 holder I have wasn’t even expanded enough. Somehow it here’s the end mill and discolored that too. 3/8 seems to be easy but those smaller shanks not as much.
This is a common issue I see with heat shrink holders. You're torching your holders heating them past the rated heat cycle, another thing is not letting them cool to room temperature before grabbing tool height and it changes by a couple thou
@@glennedward2201 The heating process begins @ 1:16 and I would already have pulled the tool out during time stamp 1:18 - 1:19 and then had the new tool inside the holder set to the correct length by time stamp 1:24 The whole process is extremely quick as I've been doing it for years but it's necessary if you want longevity from your holders. If you can't do it that quickly and be safe as to not burn yourself, remove the tool & let it completely cool down first, then you can heat it again to insert the tool. My preparation process is as follows: 1. Make sure I have my new tool out of the tool sleeve and placed close to the right side of the table (where he has all of the used endmills). 2. Have a cheap pair of throwaway calipers preset to the desired tool length stick out & placed on the left side (by burn warning label) to be quickly accessed by left hand. 3. Be ready to change everything as quickly as possible to prevent re-heats, if my tool doesn't go in it's because I wasn't fast enough, let it completely cool & try again afterwards. Tool replacement heat process is as follows: 1. Reach over the top of the heating element and grab the endmill by the shank (being cognizant of the fact that everything is hot & don't crush the flutes in the process) 2. Holding the red heating button with my left hand while simultaneously gripping the shank of the endmill with slip joint pliers and applying a constant force straight up 3. Lightly place the hot/used endmill on the table and finish the heating cycle with my left hand, while my right hand is grabbing the shank of the brand new endmill 4.) With my left hand I pull the heating element all the way to the max height and quickly slide my tool in with right hand, simultaneously grabbing calipers with left hand. 5.) Quickly & carefully placing calipers on the top of the endmill, using pliers in my right hand to adjust the tool stick out until the bottom of the calipers hits the top of holder. 6.) Remove the calipers immediately once your depth is set (as to not burn the depth measuring blade)
Triarii Cat It heats concentrically and cools the same way, so you never have differential expanding or shrinking so you never permently deform the tool holder.
Hi, I have two of the holders you showed in the video and was wondering if I could send them to you to take the tools out and send me them back but keep the holders for yourself. Let me know thanks
Nick McGraw... you can contact Haimer USA And talk to the tech department or customer service. This guy might over heat your holders if they're not already.
You're destroying your holders. A heat cycle consists of running a heat cycle closely followed by cooling with the cooling bodies. This us a very bad practice, especially to be putting it on UA-cam for the masses.
@@glennedward2201 You never reheat the holder as he says "its RED hot" , first cool down the holder then run the cycle again. Turning the holder RED will ruin the holder.
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Nice video with one hand on the camera. However never re heat twice. If you can not remove the tool for any reason such as handling the camera cool the arbor and start the process again. This way the integrity of the tool holder is always maintained. Hope this helps.
If one knows metallurgy that’s the obvious thing to do but a good point for those who don’t.
Why does this matter
These have such a big design flaw tho, in that if your tool breaks and snaps below the base, you have nothing to grip and remove the broken tool. My shops only solution has been to double or triple heat it, remove the pool stud and flip it upside down, and then aggressively try to smack it out from the bottom. There needs to be a way to remove broken tools effectively and safely.
Take off your pull stud and use the hollow stops so you can use a T-handle to push completely through the shrink fit holder to pop it out.
The Lyndex-Nikken unit has a rotating induction head that solves this problem.
ua-cam.com/video/5Io6qli3ymE/v-deo.html
here you go.
Johnny Dang that’s what I’ve been looking for. Thank you man. Pretty awesome
Magnet.
I was worried when mine discolored that I got it too hot except the m6 holder I have wasn’t even expanded enough. Somehow it here’s the end mill and discolored that too. 3/8 seems to be easy but those smaller shanks not as much.
I was gonna ask how much interference but..well CNC button pusher so...I'm sure you have no idea. Or what interference even is.
Hi .. what is the current supply in it pls tell me ,I have same machine
This is a common issue I see with heat shrink holders. You're torching your holders heating them past the rated heat cycle, another thing is not letting them cool to room temperature before grabbing tool height and it changes by a couple thou
You have a better way? Mine won’t install unless they discolor a little. Even letting them heat soak a little.
@@glennedward2201 The heating process begins @ 1:16 and I would already have pulled the tool out during time stamp 1:18 - 1:19 and then had the new tool inside the holder set to the correct length by time stamp 1:24 The whole process is extremely quick as I've been doing it for years but it's necessary if you want longevity from your holders. If you can't do it that quickly and be safe as to not burn yourself, remove the tool & let it completely cool down first, then you can heat it again to insert the tool.
My preparation process is as follows:
1. Make sure I have my new tool out of the tool sleeve and placed close to the right side of the table (where he has all of the used endmills).
2. Have a cheap pair of throwaway calipers preset to the desired tool length stick out & placed on the left side (by burn warning label) to be quickly accessed by left hand.
3. Be ready to change everything as quickly as possible to prevent re-heats, if my tool doesn't go in it's because I wasn't fast enough, let it completely cool & try again afterwards.
Tool replacement heat process is as follows:
1. Reach over the top of the heating element and grab the endmill by the shank (being cognizant of the fact that everything is hot & don't crush the flutes in the process)
2. Holding the red heating button with my left hand while simultaneously gripping the shank of the endmill with slip joint pliers and applying a constant force straight up
3. Lightly place the hot/used endmill on the table and finish the heating cycle with my left hand, while my right hand is grabbing the shank of the brand new endmill
4.) With my left hand I pull the heating element all the way to the max height and quickly slide my tool in with right hand, simultaneously grabbing calipers with left hand.
5.) Quickly & carefully placing calipers on the top of the endmill, using pliers in my right hand to adjust the tool stick out until the bottom of the calipers hits the top of holder.
6.) Remove the calipers immediately once your depth is set (as to not burn the depth measuring blade)
wouldn't all of that heating and cooling knock out the concentricity of the bore with e rest of the tool holder?
Triarii Cat It heats concentrically and cools the same way, so you never have differential expanding or shrinking so you never permently deform the tool holder.
Hi, I have two of the holders you showed in the video and was wondering if I could send them to you to take the tools out and send me them back but keep the holders for yourself. Let me know thanks
Nick McGraw... you can contact Haimer USA And talk to the tech department or customer service. This guy might over heat your holders if they're not already.
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You're destroying your holders. A heat cycle consists of running a heat cycle closely followed by cooling with the cooling bodies. This us a very bad practice, especially to be putting it on UA-cam for the masses.
Every video I’ve watched does it the same way. So if his technique is wrong then perhaps explain the proper way.
@@glennedward2201 You never reheat the holder as he says "its RED hot" , first cool down the holder then run the cycle again. Turning the holder RED will ruin the holder.
great video!!!!