I highly recommend measuring the subs with "acoustic timing". Then you can use the REW Alignment Tool to find the best summation of all the subs without trying to input a ton off different delays. It's highly accurate much quicker and only requires to measure each sub once and than use the alignment tool to find the what works best in your room.
EDIT: I changed the subwoofer position and tried the steps discribed below again. This time the timealignement was not good. I got totally different and beter curve results with brads method! What I tried and this seems to work pretty well (I am a REW noob, there could be a better way): 1. Set Measurement in REW to the settings Brad provided 2. Switch to "use acoustic timing reference" 3. Unplug your left main (so that you don't get any signal from it, if you crossover does not go as high) and set the reference speaker to right 4. do a measurement for sub 1, sub 2, ... mute the others respectively 5. in the text under the miniature measurement on the left in REW there is a time and distance now for each sub 6. the time will be negative, what you cannot put into the minidsp 7. take the largest distance from the sub measurements and round it up to something nice 8. put that distance in your AVR for your sub 9. now do the measurements again and you will get new (positive) numbers for time delay 10. put those time delays into the mini dsp for each sub Instead of putting in the delay for each sub you also can set Sub 1 to zero and substract its dealy from the other numbers. It's the same, but the subs are not time aligned with the main R anymore (which Brad does later with the X-over anyway? So there should be no difference here - please correct me if I am wrong). For me this provided a slightly different number as I got by Brad's method (calculated 3,69 vs. 4,7), but the overall sum measurement seems to be pretty close to it as well. I am not sure which I prefere (I got to nasty points at 30 and 90Hz, of course only one of them is better with each method and one is worse...). So - if you are not up for tons of measurements and analysis by eye, this could help, I think.
Great video; very high quality. However, I recommend that you spend a bit more time refining the methodology based on science first, then moving on to trial and error. You should start off the time alignment by using a tape measure and math. Determine the actual distance between the microphone at your preferred listening position and all subs. For example, my 4-sub setup consists of two tapped horns at the front corners and two standard bass-reflex Polk subs at the back (i do not recommend Polk). Not only are the tapped horns 6.6 feet further away than the rear subs, but because of the folding inside the TH's, the drivers are an additional 2 feet away from the front of the enclosure. Calculating the delay at 8.6 feet and using the rough speed of sound (which can vary) of 0.895ms per foot, i would start with a 7.7ms delay applied to each of the tapped horns (or a different number for each if they're not equidistant). From there, I would then fine-tune using the "better or worse" method, stepping up and down by 0.01ms. Trust me when I say that 0.01ms can have a huge impact on the response. Also, don't be fooled by a powerful or even flat response; flat response does not equal low distortion. As such, you also want to look at the distortion of each successive measurement. You can have a nice response with horrible distortion, and your expensive subs will sound like crap, albeit loud crap. Reflections might help to boost dB and give you a deceivingly flat response, but the timing misalignment will wreak havoc on the distortion level, making your bass sound like a whoopie cushion in an echo chamber. I have had a timing difference of only 0.2ms increase distortion from 39% to 300%. It goes without saying that what sounds good in one spot might sound like shit in another. My theater is calibrated for the spot between my right ear and my wife's left ear....everyone else gets whatever they're lucky enough to get.
Dude...I've been waiting for a walk through on how to do this! Thanks so much for this video. Now I need to pullout all my measuring tools and try it out!😁
Thanks for making these DSP tutorials. Really hoping you can answer my questions! A few questions for you: 1. In the level matching section are we just level matching our subs with our front left speaker? If yes, why and why not level match with front L+R and why not level match with just the front right speaker? I'm sure this is a super basic question, but I don't get what we're doing and what it's accomplishing. 2. Do we need to set the level of the surround speakers to 0.0dB (Denon receiver>speakers>manual setup>levels>test tone or do we leave those to whatever audyssey setup? 3. Should we run audyssey before we start this? does it matter? 4. I noticed your RMS signal level is set to -12.00dBFS. Mine was set to -20.00dBFS, should I change this to match yours before playing any test tones?
@@hollosym I am running Audyssey!!! If you don’t mind can you send me the online link!!! I like the Brad video but it not clear what to perform from first to last, in his video he said to match with left speaker and turn off adyssey. Watch with -30db on raw.
@@lalithpodduturi9811 the big thing he glossed over is setting the type of sweep in REW to “sub” ie subwoofer. In the end you could simply unplug your front left channel and you’re good. Just make sure you doable all room correction. His method kinda sucks tbh, the better method is using the alignment tool in REW. Here’s a great breakdown: ua-cam.com/video/8bwpLfbLiZ4/v-deo.html. That guy's channel I linked above has some really great tutorials. He has a JBL SDP-55 processor so it's a tad different when talking about how to disable room correction. You can follow Brad's how-to to disable audyssey room correction on your receiver.
When you were on the first two subs adding delay, I noted you only tested adding delay to one of the subs and then you settled on 4.2 and then moved on to adding in sub 3. Would there be any benefit after getting the best reading you could from adjusting delay on the left sub, to then adjusting delay on the right sub before moving on to the third sub?
I don't understand what the graph should look like, so when you say this is not good, I don't know why :) a video that explains the whole graph thing, would be great
This is a great how-to video! So glad I came across this - thanks for doing it for us. I will be using this when I get to this stage of my theater build for sure.
So glad I watched the video earlier with you and #Youthman at his house and then followed the link to using the Mini DSP with 4 subwoofers. Thank you for all the help!!
I believe it is generally suggested to set the sub level to -6/-5 due to potential clipping. I just finished building two Stereo Integrity HT18's last week and set them up with with the 2x4HD. After getting them roughly calibrated with the sub out set to level 0, when playing edge of tomorrow at 0db Master volume on my denon x4400h, the subs were clipping. Turned the volume down to -5 and clipping went away. So I turned the sub out down to -5 and turned the amp up to compensate. Now at 0 on the volume there is no clipping. Didn't try to go louder but I would agree that the sub level should be set to -5 as stated I the avsforum subwoofer setup guide. But overall these videos were very helpful!
hello minds guru, I have set up the connection as you described in part1 and I have an issue to get the sub input level to come up on minds software after I pressed the play button on the REW generator. I could hear the noise from my left main speaker but the sub. please advise.... you missed this in your part 2 clip
You said "I set the overall gain to -15db in the app" referenced earlier,huh?, the mini dsp app and that would be the input gain or are you talking about the gain you set on the denon?
Hi Brad, thanks for this series...it will be very helpful when my Umik and MiniDSP arrives later this week. One question, though, is since you are running your subs off the miniDSP, before you measure do you adjust the sub distance to 0.0 ft in your Denon since the miniDSP is handling the delay?
I would recommend taking the Denon out of the signal path at first. Connect an audio cable from your laptop to your Input 1 on the MiniDSP (this is where you'll connect your Denon subwoofer out), then the outputs of the MiniDSP to each of your subs. Set the timing of the subs relative to each other and make adjustments (including individual PEQ for each sub) within the MiniDSP. Once you have the subs set up to work together as a team, then you include the Denon. At that point, you can use the Denon's Audyssey mic to make timing measurements for all of your speakers, to include your unified subwoofer team. This is important, because the Denon will see all four subs as only 1 sub, so it's critical that you just focus on getting them working as a team. You will also need to do level matching again once you have all of the subs connected to the Denon.
you level match your fronts to 75db with avr volume set to -17.db . Normally you will use reference level -0db for that ? do you level match all speakers in AVR levels section, when you have run room correction software ?
Do we have to unplug the 2×4hd after the eq or should we leave it with the AVR... I know it's a dumb question but yeah I wanna know it... thanks in advance
Hi there great tutorials. I used a toslink (optical) cable instead of HDMI to connect my pc to my receiver. When I switch to Sub cal, I also hear the signal also through the left main channel is that normal? Or do I really need HDMI
Hay, I have the RX-A4A. If I set it to straight or pure direct before taking measurements, would that work, or do I still need to go disable everything mentioned? Thanks
No receiver can do what the miniDSP can. Nor can any receiver give you the full manual and granular control like miniDSP does (there are also less expensive options from companies like Dayton Audio). You don’t really have to do any of this if you don’t want to. I don’t know where you get the “endless money pothole” thing but I’ll assure you, I’m pretty much the opposite of that. Any hobby can be an expensive hobby if you let it or want it to be (look at the car audio scene), but I’m not going to tell someone how to spend their own money. I also advocate for getting the most out of your gear, regardless of the cost your current or future gear. Cheap or expensive; it doesn’t matter, I want to help people get the most out of whatever they have if they want to go down that road. I’m not someone who has unlimited money, and I’m using old, entry level speakers in my system. I have an older receiver. I don’t have very high end gear, but I want to get the most out of what I have and I also enjoy this hobby, but I also love helping people get the most out of their system and what they currently have. While it is true that I’ve made money over the years through ad revenue on these videos, I am in no way getting paid by miniDSP outside of affiliate link sales through Amazon, which I always make that clear. Heck, I paid for the miniDSP and UMIK-1 that I used in this video series! Also a strange comment to post on a full tutorial series dedicated to helping people setup a miniDSP. I don’t think my channel is a good fit for you as I have more miniDSP content in the works. Peace.✌️
@@HomeTheaterGamer I have a xenon 3800H that calibrate perfectly in my mancave and a Marantz cinema 50 that level matches and calibrates. Headache free
Great videos! got everything set up up until level matching. I'm not getting any sound from any of my 4 subwoofers when I'm running the SPL meter. Please help
After turning everything off in the receiver and setting the sub level to zero, what is a good general distance for the subwoofer in the receiver to start measurements? Should you just pick one that gives you a decent response to start with?
Great video, Question regarding the level matching section (9:15). After you set the volume with the mains using the receiver remote, are you disconnecting the mains to level match the subs? Or do you keep the mains active when level matching each sub?
Oh wait, I just noticed that you set the play tone to 'Speaker Cal' when volume matching and your changed it to 'Subwoofer Cal' when you level matched the subs.
@@ablerauer I was wondering the same thing. I'll have to try it and see if the left speaker is cut out and not playing during the sub cal or measurement runs.
When I set the tone generator to sub cal, I still get a signal from my left front channel. I have the receiver crossover set to 250hz. Any idea why this may be occuring. I appreciate the help!
Brad help!!!! Why when I want to run my subwoofer sweeps am I only getting the sound from my front left channel? Seems others have had some similar issues too without any reply.......is there not an answer to this?
That’s really interesting. I’ve not run into that problem. Are you using ASIO4ALL? If you are, try switching to JAVA or using output 4. Also, if you’re speakers are set to large in your receiver, or your receiver is in DIRECT or pure mode, then that might be why as well. You want it set to STEREO or Multichannel Input. And make sure you speakers are set to small. I’d verify all of those things and see what the results are. Sorry I can’t be of more help as I just haven’t experienced that issue.
@@HomeTheaterGamer I have tried everything under the sun. Speakers are at small, levels are 0.0, Audyssey is off, stereo is selected, Switched the Denon back to 1 sub. Using Java. 🤷♂️. Thanks for replying 🙏
@Ryan Lewis just so I’m understanding you correctly, you’re not getting any sound from your subs at all, correct? I’d also make sure to verify that on the MiniDSP software, under the inputs and routing section, that ANALOG is selected. Mine defaulted to USB. Also make sure that all Xovers in the Outputs tab are bypassed.
@@HomeTheaterGamer I have everything set as you just stated. I am getting sound from my subs but also from the mains when setting SPL levels. But, When I take a measurement in REW the subs are not working, just the main as my lowest frequency is 38 which is on par with the RP-8000F.
@@78rlewi I'm having the same issue. When I'm attempting to level match, my left front channel outputs pink noise with the sub cal setting. I'm not getting any noise from my subs. Have you figured this issue out, by any chance? Thanks!
I can't get new to play the sub tone. I have set xover to 250hz . when I press play and L is selected then the left speaker plays, if I choose lfe then almost no sound from sub although plenty of sound if I use avr test tones
@Alvin Cole I just raised the volume on the receiver until the left front channel reads 75dB on the SPL meter when playing the "SPEAKER CAL" tone in REW. That's it. In my case, that ended up being -17.5dB on my Denon X2300W.
Great set of videos very useful! I have a question though I've set the crossover in the receiver to 250hz but when I play SUB cal pink noise I hear it through either my left or right speaker as well as my subwoofer. It throws off my calibration to 75db because its so loud from my main speakers.
I have the same issue. I set the crossover to 250hz in the receiver, but I'm getting pink noise from my left channel. On top of that, I'm not getting any noise from my subs. I see a rise in the output meter in the MiniDSP plugin, but no sound. I don't have them muted. Not sure what's happening there. By any chance, have you solved this issue?
I get the same issue. I've got the crossover in my Yamaha RX-A2080 set to max 200hz on all speakers, yet I still get output from the left and right tower speakers rather than isolating to the subs. Hope someone can help
@@mwstorms21 My issue turned out to be a problem with my SVS subs. I wasn't getting any sound from my subs, and the receiver was directing the sound to my mains. I had to reset the subs to get them to pick up the signal. For calibration, I believe that you'll get noise from the L or R mains (which ever is set to receive the signal in REW), but above the crossover set in the receiver. When you run the frequency sweep, the sub should output the signal up to the 200hz. As for the pink noise, make sure the sub is receiving a signal. That was my problem at least. I know everyone's issues are different, but I hope this helps a little.
I got the same issue with my SONY avr so I just unplugged the speaker cables and then I got the sound from subwoofers only. It could be some simpler thing going on I just can’t figure out.
Hello Team, I need some help darling in my subwoofers, My question is should I add a house curve in the mini DSP and then run anthems ARC room correction or just use the mini DSP to flatten the response and then add the house curve in anthems ARC room correction? I’ve tried letting the anthem do everything but I think incorporating a miniDSP will achieve better results. I can’t move the subwoofers around my room to improve their in room response as I’m very limited with space.
Question: I have followed your steps. I have an Anthem MRX720 and set all crossovers to 250Hz. In REW, when I run a measurement with the setting 10Hz to 200Hz, I still get sound out of my front left speaker. Can you give me some insight as to what I am doing wrong?
Rew is not recognizing my marantz in the soundcard preference. It only gives me a choice of default device, primary sound driver, speakers ( minidsp 2×4hd) or speakers ( 2 high definition audio device). Any ideas on how to it would recognize my marantz?
My friend, do you think this device can help solve the problem of watching movies? that problem with low dialogue and very high action scenes? Is it possible to leave everything in the same volume? I use the optical cable TV/soundbar subwoofer connection via Bluetooth. Please my friend help simple soundbar 2.1
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing. I gain matched my mismatched subs like in home theater gurus ep 8. Would you recommend gain and level matching or is gain matching alone sufficient?
I am running a Yamaha RX-V685 and I'd like to connect a Crown XLI 1500 to it but I've read that I need a ART CLEANBoxPro Dual-Channel Level Converter. do I still need the clean box if i am already getting a Mini dsp?
When you match the subs I am having to really adjust the level like in the -20 range. Do you think that is normal? All my gains on the subs are set to 1/2 or almost 1/2.
Great video! I just bought a UMIK-1 last week and followed your video to get some sweeps of my sub. If I'm running only 2 subs don't you want to add delay to the second also? If they are about the same distance? I'll be adding a second soon and curious. Looking forward to the next video I'm curious on what to do next as far as calibration with audyseey and if you run it next. I like to run my subs hot usually over 80db to get a final trim of -11. 5 maybe some of this will be answered in the next video 👉. Also one more question I have 2 sub outs on my denon should I run just one to the DSP to control my 2 subs? Or both sub outs to the in of the DSP ?
There is a reason. Adjusting phase on the subwoofer itself or adding a time delay using the miniDSP both achieve the same thing. Time aligning is basically adding a delay to one sub to match another, which is essentially what the phase adjustment on a subwoofer does (adding a delay to the input signal). I chose to use the miniDSP as it allows for far more granular control down to a 10th of a millisecond and I also find it easier overall.
Something I've seen kind of unclear, after disabling room correction, setting sub gain to 0, and XO, do you do anything with the old distance levels or leave them where they were? Thank you!
I typically don’t touch the setting unless there’s something REALLY wrong with the final output that is not correctable when you get to the main to sub time alignment stage. The sub distance itself is nothing more than a phase setting/alignment setting for sub to main integration, which can be done in the miniDSP software.
@@HomeTheaterGamer Just confirming during the measuring and setting up dsp, you leave the old sub distance alone on avr? No need to set to 0 like the gain?
@@YourMovieFix If you have an AVR with a microphone that can do auto measurements, I would recommend using it again AFTER you have set everything up in the miniDSP. This is because all of the changes you make in the miniDSP, especially timing delay, will change the distance that your AVR calculated before introducing the MiniDSP. Even the miniDSP itself adds "distance", because there is a process of ADC (analog to digital), DSP (digital signal processing), and then DAC (digital to analog conversion) that takes place. It is fast, but it may introduce as much as a 1ms delay...which is about a foot of distance. Timing is insanely important; while it can help with SPL, it is critical for sound clarity and coherence. It's the whole reason why expensive AVRs come with microphones in the first place.
Hi should I be leaving the output to the left channel (L) when measuring levels on my sub? Or should I be changing the output to LFE? Although I have raised all crossovers and disabled DSP (I think) in my Yamaha receiver I am still getting output from my main channel when using the L channel for the test. Even with the REW setting changed to sub. Not sure if I am perhaps missing something in the Yamaha or if I should switch it to LFE for measuring the level of my sub (I only have one). Thanks for any advice!
Not at all. I often use my nearly 10 year old Windows 10 laptop for REW measurements and calibration and it works fine. A more powerful computer will shave off a few seconds here and there when doing certain things in REW, but for the most part it’s all the same.
When you gain match, do you keep the distance from listening position the same? In my room the Front Sub is 11-9 away and the rear sub is 7-6 away. Does it interfere with the delay time?
I wouldn't worry about the distances too much as time alignment with the miniDSP will take care of that. It shouldn't interfere with the delay time at all.
Hi thanks for the explanation, why are you using the 90 degree mic cal file if you are calibrating in stereo ? I read in the minidsp that the normal file is to be used when you are calibrating a single speaker (like a sub) please let me know if I got this wrong.
Since he is measuring three speakers in a HT set-up, the mic is in the vertical position and the 90deg cal file is for that position. If your are measuring a single speaker "near field" for it's performance or a stereo 2.1 system you use the mic in the horizontal position and the 0deg cal file. I hope that helps.
It can be but not needed here. If you do want to run it at 0dB, then you'll want to change the tone generator and measurement volume to -30dBfs. Otherwise, you could damage your equipment and possibly hearing running those at REW's default of -12dBfs.
Around 11:50 you said that the ability to time align subs is the main reason to get one but technically you could time align the subs without it since you have a variable phase dial and not only a 0/180 deg switch. All the delay is doing is adjust the point in which the driver moves in and out in relation to the other subwoofers which is the same as using those dials. Good video tho!
@Tyler Stout thanks for the feedback. You are correct. I should have mentioned that for subs with the ability to variably adjust phase, you can time align them without the miniDSP. For subs that lack app control and have a variable dial, I would still prefer the miniDSP instead of using a subwoofer's variable phase dial as I find it easier to play around and find the best setting, plus you can always revert back to the a setting you had previously by putting in a number instead of trying to find the exact spot on the dial again. This comes down to personal preference and opinion, as one may find one way easier than the other.
@@HomeTheaterGamer Isn't the whole purpose of time aligning speakers to be time aligned with ALL other speakers? A bass note on the center channel should be the same instantaneous bass note timing as the subwoofers, left, right, height, etc.... This is the dilemma/issue that I'm fighting with my system. Kind of a big headache that may result in a bunch of audio gear ending up in trash and then a beer run made. hehe
In that case, you’d want to use something like a 3.5mm to RCA cable from the audio output on your laptop to the stereo input on your receiver. Similar to this one: amzn.to/3yP8oH8.
We want full control of the level within the miniDSP and don’t want the AVR adjusting the signal at all. It’s basically taking out any variability. You can theoretically have the sub level set to anything in the AVR and as long as you don’t change it, you’d be ok. But, if you set it to -3dB in the AVR, you may end up having to boost it more when doing EQ or after the fact as EQ tends to bring the level down ever so slightly. I’d avoid going over 0dB sub level in the AVR at all costs though as it may introduce distortion and clipping depending on overall volume.
@@Prevstar The -10dB is showing that the "gain" setting on your sub is set higher than Audyssey was expecting, so Audyssey set the AVR output to -10dB to bring the volume level of the sub down to the level it needed. There is thoughts that say that your setting is actually a good way to set up subs so the sub has more available power to the driver and isn't held back by the gain setting being low. Having the gain on the sub high and AVR set low or in the negative is like having a V8 engine when all you are using is a 4 cylinder amount of power. I hope that helps.
So... You don't need to connect HDMI to anything, just send audio to your receiver, integrated, pre, amp, etc. You could do this via analog i.e. Rca I almost didn't get a minidsp because of this. Luckily I checked the minidsp manual
This is true for stereo calibrations. However, with the recent updates to REW and subwoofer calibration and additional features, I would still recommend an HDMI connection if possible. Either the current REW version and an HDMI connection, there is no longer a need to disconnect any speakers when doing subwoofer calibrations or integration with mains.
Wow, what a waste of time. Haven't you heard of Multi-Sub Optimizer tool (MSO)? You take your REW measurements of each sub separately (Audyssey - off) and repeat the measurement for each seat if more than one MLP is needed. You do the measurements with with acousting time alignment enabled. Then you export all measurements as text files into a new MSO project after it was configured to use Minidsp 2x4HD with 10 PEQ filters. Hit calculate and after a few minutes, MSO will generate you Minidsp PEQ filters, the output gain of each sub, the relative delay, and the shared filter (input PEQ) if needed for a house curve you supply... (not recommended if using Audyssey dynamic EQ). Once all the filters are loaded into minidsp, you can run Audyssey with only one sub, which is actually a multiple set of subs already calibrated.
My intention with these guides was to keep things as plain and simple as possible, which unfortunately MSO is anything but simple. It’s an amazing piece of software I’m sure but does require a major investment in time to learn how to use it properly. Time I’m already wasting apparently on someone who thinks this video was a waste of time anyway. To that end, I bid you farewell.
@@HomeTheaterGamer I meant a waste of time going through all the process of manual calibration, which will never give optimum results. MSO has a new wizard which makes the whole process very quick and simple. It takes 3 minutes to setup MSO, once you finished taking the REW measuments.
@User You can’t calibrate multiple subs with a single antimode that I’m aware of, so it’s not really the same thing. You’re better off with a miniDSP and paying someone to do this for you if you don’t want to take the time to do it.
"What's up" and the 'like and subscribe' panhandling - Jesus. Sorry - way too much walking round the park, unnecessary back story and after the fact explanation. 4x longer than it needed to be.
There are timestamps in the description that can be used to navigate through the video series. This video is also pretty old when I had just started my channel, so I was still figuring out how I wanted to do things. God forbid I’m not perfect here as a one man show doing everything myself (and early on when I started the channel), but can assure you this is not 4x longer than it needs to be. This series has been pretty popular with over 220,000 views total and has generally been well received.
where do you want your subwoofers gain knob set at when starting REW? And also,do I want my left front speaker still outputting while I am level matching each sub? When I play the pink noise it is still actively playing the noise also. LOL,sorry for the dumb questions!
In the playing of the Sub Cal -- 1. Should the front speakers be muted? 2. How did you adjust the subwoofer output to ~77 dB? Changing Input gain or changing Output gain? 3. Are you measuring all subwoofers playing at the same time, ie, with all subwoofers unmuted? 4. if the answer to question 3 is YES, should the individual subwoofers first be adjusted to equal dB before measuring with all subwoofers unmuted?
Quick question. I'm about to receive my second sub in the mail next week. When I fallow along with this should I set the first subs DB to 75 using the volume nob on the sub itself and then the second sub using DSP software to match? Or can i just use the volume nob on both. I'm confused as to why you used the svs app for one and not the others? Or is it because you only have one svs sub? Any clarification on that would be greatly appreciated. Or should I set both subs to 12 o'clock and then use the DSP software to set both at 75 DB?
Hey there Brad - Merry Chrisrtmas to you and yours - and your channel! A question for you please - While using the miniDSP where the subwoofers are connected as out 1 and out 2 from the dsp and left sub is connected from sub out 1 from the avr to input 1 on the dsp, should the subwoofer speakerssetting in the avr be changed from 2 subwoofers (as was my case before subscribing to you and getting a minidsp!) to show as 1 subwoofer as the dsp is now controlling?- - or does it matter?
how loud do you calibrate? even at -20 db on my receiver I was not getting 75 db C weighted random pink noise in my Umik1... test sound is not clean. it is sparkly. music sounds like it should..
Start at 50% gain or around there, then level match them like I do in the video. Although it really doesn’t matter as you’ll need to adjust the volume anyway during level matching, so you can start with the sub volume all the way down and then bring it up from there.
Watch all of my miniDSP tutorial videos in this playlist (part 4 to come soon): ua-cam.com/play/PLriHxML5BOuORC1FWqBI4PF9us7yG8IjK.html
I highly recommend measuring the subs with "acoustic timing". Then you can use the REW Alignment Tool to find the best summation of all the subs without trying to input a ton off different delays. It's highly accurate much quicker and only requires to measure each sub once and than use the alignment tool to find the what works best in your room.
I did not know this. I will definitely look into it and give it a try! Thanks for the info!
You got some documentation on that? I want to tune my subs and I am just starting to learn 👍
@@HomeTheaterGamer any update on using the REW alignment tool?
EDIT: I changed the subwoofer position and tried the steps discribed below again. This time the timealignement was not good. I got totally different and beter curve results with brads method!
What I tried and this seems to work pretty well (I am a REW noob, there could be a better way):
1. Set Measurement in REW to the settings Brad provided
2. Switch to "use acoustic timing reference"
3. Unplug your left main (so that you don't get any signal from it, if you crossover does not go as high) and set the reference speaker to right
4. do a measurement for sub 1, sub 2, ... mute the others respectively
5. in the text under the miniature measurement on the left in REW there is a time and distance now for each sub
6. the time will be negative, what you cannot put into the minidsp
7. take the largest distance from the sub measurements and round it up to something nice
8. put that distance in your AVR for your sub
9. now do the measurements again and you will get new (positive) numbers for time delay
10. put those time delays into the mini dsp for each sub
Instead of putting in the delay for each sub you also can set Sub 1 to zero and substract its dealy from the other numbers. It's the same, but the subs are not time aligned with the main R anymore (which Brad does later with the X-over anyway? So there should be no difference here - please correct me if I am wrong). For me this provided a slightly different number as I got by Brad's method (calculated 3,69 vs. 4,7), but the overall sum measurement seems to be pretty close to it as well. I am not sure which I prefere (I got to nasty points at 30 and 90Hz, of course only one of them is better with each method and one is worse...).
So - if you are not up for tons of measurements and analysis by eye, this could help, I think.
Great video; very high quality. However, I recommend that you spend a bit more time refining the methodology based on science first, then moving on to trial and error. You should start off the time alignment by using a tape measure and math. Determine the actual distance between the microphone at your preferred listening position and all subs. For example, my 4-sub setup consists of two tapped horns at the front corners and two standard bass-reflex Polk subs at the back (i do not recommend Polk). Not only are the tapped horns 6.6 feet further away than the rear subs, but because of the folding inside the TH's, the drivers are an additional 2 feet away from the front of the enclosure. Calculating the delay at 8.6 feet and using the rough speed of sound (which can vary) of 0.895ms per foot, i would start with a 7.7ms delay applied to each of the tapped horns (or a different number for each if they're not equidistant). From there, I would then fine-tune using the "better or worse" method, stepping up and down by 0.01ms. Trust me when I say that 0.01ms can have a huge impact on the response. Also, don't be fooled by a powerful or even flat response; flat response does not equal low distortion. As such, you also want to look at the distortion of each successive measurement. You can have a nice response with horrible distortion, and your expensive subs will sound like crap, albeit loud crap. Reflections might help to boost dB and give you a deceivingly flat response, but the timing misalignment will wreak havoc on the distortion level, making your bass sound like a whoopie cushion in an echo chamber. I have had a timing difference of only 0.2ms increase distortion from 39% to 300%. It goes without saying that what sounds good in one spot might sound like shit in another. My theater is calibrated for the spot between my right ear and my wife's left ear....everyone else gets whatever they're lucky enough to get.
Dude...I've been waiting for a walk through on how to do this! Thanks so much for this video. Now I need to pullout all my measuring tools and try it out!😁
looked at all 4 parts, perfect info, my system now sounds perfect, follow everything accurately and you will enjoy a perfect and controlled sound
Thanks for making these DSP tutorials. Really hoping you can answer my questions! A few questions for you:
1. In the level matching section are we just level matching our subs with our front left speaker? If yes, why and why not level match with front L+R and why not level match with just the front right speaker?
I'm sure this is a super basic question, but I don't get what we're doing and what it's accomplishing.
2. Do we need to set the level of the surround speakers to 0.0dB (Denon receiver>speakers>manual setup>levels>test tone or do we leave those to whatever audyssey setup?
3. Should we run audyssey before we start this? does it matter?
4. I noticed your RMS signal level is set to -12.00dBFS. Mine was set to -20.00dBFS, should I change this to match yours before playing any test tones?
I have the same question about the RMS signal level.
I have same questions too, have you find the answer. Do you level match first and do the room correction. Please help.
@@lalithpodduturi9811 sad he nvr helped. I found some help online. You do level match first. What room correction are you using?
@@hollosym I am running Audyssey!!! If you don’t mind can you send me the online link!!! I like the Brad video but it not clear what to perform from first to last, in his video he said to match with left speaker and turn off adyssey. Watch with -30db on raw.
@@lalithpodduturi9811 the big thing he glossed over is setting the type of sweep in REW to “sub” ie subwoofer. In the end you could simply unplug your front left channel and you’re good. Just make sure you doable all room correction.
His method kinda sucks tbh, the better method is using the alignment tool in REW. Here’s a great breakdown: ua-cam.com/video/8bwpLfbLiZ4/v-deo.html.
That guy's channel I linked above has some really great tutorials. He has a JBL SDP-55 processor so it's a tad different when talking about how to disable room correction. You can follow Brad's how-to to disable audyssey room correction on your receiver.
Your vidoes on rew are very helpful! thank you
When you were on the first two subs adding delay, I noted you only tested adding delay to one of the subs and then you settled on 4.2 and then moved on to adding in sub 3. Would there be any benefit after getting the best reading you could from adjusting delay on the left sub, to then adjusting delay on the right sub before moving on to the third sub?
I don't understand what the graph should look like, so when you say this is not good, I don't know why :) a video that explains the whole graph thing, would be great
Thanks for commenting and that's a fantastic idea!
This is a great how-to video! So glad I came across this - thanks for doing it for us. I will be using this when I get to this stage of my theater build for sure.
How's your theater now?
@@madcrabber1113 It's awesome! But I'm sure I'm biased a little bit 😉 If you search my name in UA-cam you'll find my channel to my build.
I think I'm getting this! Thank you
Bro 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 keep em coming Im learning so much. Thank you thank you thank you
So glad I watched the video earlier with you and #Youthman at his house and then followed the link to using the Mini DSP with 4 subwoofers. Thank you for all the help!!
Thanks for making these videos. Curious what the distance should be set at in the AVR prior to minidsp calibration?
where do you want your subwoofers gain knob set at when starting REW?
I believe it is generally suggested to set the sub level to -6/-5 due to potential clipping. I just finished building two Stereo Integrity HT18's last week and set them up with with the 2x4HD. After getting them roughly calibrated with the sub out set to level 0, when playing edge of tomorrow at 0db Master volume on my denon x4400h, the subs were clipping. Turned the volume down to -5 and clipping went away. So I turned the sub out down to -5 and turned the amp up to compensate. Now at 0 on the volume there is no clipping. Didn't try to go louder but I would agree that the sub level should be set to -5 as stated I the avsforum subwoofer setup guide. But overall these videos were very helpful!
hello minds guru, I have set up the connection as you described in part1 and I have an issue to get the sub input level to come up on minds software after I pressed the play button on the REW generator. I could hear the noise from my left main speaker but the sub. please advise.... you missed this in your part 2 clip
I know same here
You said "I set the overall gain to -15db in the app" referenced earlier,huh?, the mini dsp app and that would be the input gain or are you talking about the gain you set on the denon?
When we are measuring the subs should we disconnect the other speakers? Only the subs must be playing?
the first sub you level mathed with front speaker. Did you adjust that subs volume in the AVR speaker level setting?
Hi Brad, thanks for this series...it will be very helpful when my Umik and MiniDSP arrives later this week. One question, though, is since you are running your subs off the miniDSP, before you measure do you adjust the sub distance to 0.0 ft in your Denon since the miniDSP is handling the delay?
I would recommend taking the Denon out of the signal path at first. Connect an audio cable from your laptop to your Input 1 on the MiniDSP (this is where you'll connect your Denon subwoofer out), then the outputs of the MiniDSP to each of your subs. Set the timing of the subs relative to each other and make adjustments (including individual PEQ for each sub) within the MiniDSP. Once you have the subs set up to work together as a team, then you include the Denon. At that point, you can use the Denon's Audyssey mic to make timing measurements for all of your speakers, to include your unified subwoofer team. This is important, because the Denon will see all four subs as only 1 sub, so it's critical that you just focus on getting them working as a team. You will also need to do level matching again once you have all of the subs connected to the Denon.
I get no sound out of my sub when doing this, I'm confused 😕
you level match your fronts to 75db with avr volume set to -17.db . Normally you will use reference level -0db for that ? do you level match all speakers in AVR levels section, when you have run room correction software ?
Do we have to unplug the 2×4hd after the eq or should we leave it with the AVR... I know it's a dumb question but yeah I wanna know it... thanks in advance
Can you use MiniDsp on any Av receiver. Many thanks.
What are those 4, 6, 4.2, 4.8 etc numbers you're typing in? Are they delay in ms?
Great Video ,super !!!!
Greetings from Austria !!!!!
Hi there great tutorials. I used a toslink (optical) cable instead of HDMI to connect my pc to my receiver. When I switch to Sub cal, I also hear the signal also through the left main channel is that normal? Or do I really need HDMI
Why are sweeps done with just L speaker on rew and not L+R?
Hay, I have the RX-A4A. If I set it to straight or pure direct before taking measurements, would that work, or do I still need to go disable everything mentioned? Thanks
What if there is no drop down for Java? Am I missing a software driver install somewhere? I just see sample rate
In the playing of the Sub Cal --
1. Should the front speakers be muted
Or LFE
Save money, headache and time by a receiver that does this for you. These guys will put you through an endless money pothole.
No receiver can do what the miniDSP can. Nor can any receiver give you the full manual and granular control like miniDSP does (there are also less expensive options from companies like Dayton Audio). You don’t really have to do any of this if you don’t want to. I don’t know where you get the “endless money pothole” thing but I’ll assure you, I’m pretty much the opposite of that. Any hobby can be an expensive hobby if you let it or want it to be (look at the car audio scene), but I’m not going to tell someone how to spend their own money.
I also advocate for getting the most out of your gear, regardless of the cost your current or future gear. Cheap or expensive; it doesn’t matter, I want to help people get the most out of whatever they have if they want to go down that road. I’m not someone who has unlimited money, and I’m using old, entry level speakers in my system. I have an older receiver. I don’t have very high end gear, but I want to get the most out of what I have and I also enjoy this hobby, but I also love helping people get the most out of their system and what they currently have.
While it is true that I’ve made money over the years through ad revenue on these videos, I am in no way getting paid by miniDSP outside of affiliate link sales through Amazon, which I always make that clear. Heck, I paid for the miniDSP and UMIK-1 that I used in this video series!
Also a strange comment to post on a full tutorial series dedicated to helping people setup a miniDSP. I don’t think my channel is a good fit for you as I have more miniDSP content in the works. Peace.✌️
@@HomeTheaterGamer I have a xenon 3800H that calibrate perfectly in my mancave and a Marantz cinema 50 that level matches and calibrates. Headache free
I set the overall gain in the app to -15, what app? Min sap or REW? Can some explain? Thanks
I just ordered mini dsp hd because I have two subwoofer 🔊 now denon 7.2 channel atmos receiver two klipsch subwoofers 🔊
Great videos! got everything set up up until level matching. I'm not getting any sound from any of my 4 subwoofers when I'm running the SPL meter. Please help
After turning everything off in the receiver and setting the sub level to zero, what is a good general distance for the subwoofer in the receiver to start measurements? Should you just pick one that gives you a decent response to start with?
Great video,
Question regarding the level matching section (9:15).
After you set the volume with the mains using the receiver remote, are you disconnecting the mains to level match the subs? Or do you keep the mains active when level matching each sub?
Oh wait, I just noticed that you set the play tone to 'Speaker Cal' when volume matching and your changed it to 'Subwoofer Cal' when you level matched the subs.
@@ablerauer I was wondering the same thing. I'll have to try it and see if the left speaker is cut out and not playing during the sub cal or measurement runs.
When I set the tone generator to sub cal, I still get a signal from my left front channel. I have the receiver crossover set to 250hz. Any idea why this may be occuring. I appreciate the help!
I got same issue when sub noise is selected it coming from speaker as well.
Brad help!!!! Why when I want to run my subwoofer sweeps am I only getting the sound from my front left channel?
Seems others have had some similar issues too without any reply.......is there not an answer to this?
That’s really interesting. I’ve not run into that problem. Are you using ASIO4ALL? If you are, try switching to JAVA or using output 4. Also, if you’re speakers are set to large in your receiver, or your receiver is in DIRECT or pure mode, then that might be why as well. You want it set to STEREO or Multichannel Input. And make sure you speakers are set to small.
I’d verify all of those things and see what the results are. Sorry I can’t be of more help as I just haven’t experienced that issue.
@@HomeTheaterGamer I have tried everything under the sun. Speakers are at small, levels are 0.0, Audyssey is off, stereo is selected,
Switched the Denon back to 1 sub. Using Java. 🤷♂️.
Thanks for replying 🙏
@Ryan Lewis just so I’m understanding you correctly, you’re not getting any sound from your subs at all, correct?
I’d also make sure to verify that on the MiniDSP software, under the inputs and routing section, that ANALOG is selected. Mine defaulted to USB. Also make sure that all Xovers in the Outputs tab are bypassed.
@@HomeTheaterGamer I have everything set as you just stated. I am getting sound from my subs but also from the mains when setting SPL levels.
But, When I take a measurement in REW the subs are not working, just the main as my lowest frequency is 38 which is on par with the RP-8000F.
@@78rlewi I'm having the same issue. When I'm attempting to level match, my left front channel outputs pink noise with the sub cal setting. I'm not getting any noise from my subs. Have you figured this issue out, by any chance? Thanks!
I can't get new to play the sub tone. I have set xover to 250hz . when I press play and L is selected then the left speaker plays, if I choose lfe then almost no sound from sub although plenty of sound if I use avr test tones
Great video! What volume do you set your receiver to when level matching?
@Alvin Cole I just raised the volume on the receiver until the left front channel reads 75dB on the SPL meter when playing the "SPEAKER CAL" tone in REW. That's it. In my case, that ended up being -17.5dB on my Denon X2300W.
How do I get my subs to play louder without turning all the gains up?
Great set of videos very useful! I have a question though I've set the crossover in the receiver to 250hz but when I play SUB cal pink noise I hear it through either my left or right speaker as well as my subwoofer. It throws off my calibration to 75db because its so loud from my main speakers.
I have the same issue. I set the crossover to 250hz in the receiver, but I'm getting pink noise from my left channel. On top of that, I'm not getting any noise from my subs. I see a rise in the output meter in the MiniDSP plugin, but no sound. I don't have them muted. Not sure what's happening there. By any chance, have you solved this issue?
I get the same issue. I've got the crossover in my Yamaha RX-A2080 set to max 200hz on all speakers, yet I still get output from the left and right tower speakers rather than isolating to the subs. Hope someone can help
@@mwstorms21 My issue turned out to be a problem with my SVS subs. I wasn't getting any sound from my subs, and the receiver was directing the sound to my mains. I had to reset the subs to get them to pick up the signal. For calibration, I believe that you'll get noise from the L or R mains (which ever is set to receive the signal in REW), but above the crossover set in the receiver. When you run the frequency sweep, the sub should output the signal up to the 200hz. As for the pink noise, make sure the sub is receiving a signal. That was my problem at least. I know everyone's issues are different, but I hope this helps a little.
@@degicank22 same exact problem here. I think he left out a step
I got the same issue with my SONY avr so I just unplugged the speaker cables and then I got the sound from subwoofers only. It could be some simpler thing going on I just can’t figure out.
Hello Team, I need some help darling in my subwoofers, My question is should I add a house curve in the mini DSP and then run anthems ARC room correction or just use the mini DSP to flatten the response and then add the house curve in anthems ARC room correction? I’ve tried letting the anthem do everything but I think incorporating a miniDSP will achieve better results.
I can’t move the subwoofers around my room to improve their in room response as I’m very limited with space.
Great information 💪🏻🤩😎
Question: I have followed your steps. I have an Anthem MRX720 and set all crossovers to 250Hz. In REW, when I run a measurement with the setting 10Hz to 200Hz, I still get sound out of my front left speaker. Can you give me some insight as to what I am doing wrong?
Hi- why not use the individual trim level to set the 75db level for each sub?
Rew is not recognizing my marantz in the soundcard preference. It only gives me a choice of default device, primary sound driver, speakers ( minidsp 2×4hd) or speakers ( 2 high definition audio device). Any ideas on how to it would recognize my marantz?
My friend, do you think this device can help solve the problem of watching movies? that problem with low dialogue and very high action scenes? Is it possible to leave everything in the same volume? I use the optical cable TV/soundbar subwoofer connection via Bluetooth. Please my friend help simple soundbar 2.1
Hi Brad!
Not sure if you'll see this comment, but would all of this work with just using one subwoofer in the minidsp?
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing. I gain matched my mismatched subs like in home theater gurus ep 8. Would you recommend gain and level matching or is gain matching alone sufficient?
So cross over set to max, Audysey disabled, gain set to 0. What about distance? What values do u set for the sub in the avr?
2:00 Curious: If i'm trying to measure the subwoofer, would it make sense to completely disconnect all speakers from the AVR?
I am running a Yamaha RX-V685 and I'd like to connect a Crown XLI 1500 to it but I've read that I need a ART CLEANBoxPro Dual-Channel Level Converter. do I still need the clean box if i am already getting a Mini dsp?
Hi...did you tried 180 deg phase on back sub
Would the audio frog umi-1 for cars work as a mic?
When you match the subs I am having to really adjust the level like in the -20 range. Do you think that is normal? All my gains on the subs are set to 1/2 or almost 1/2.
Folks, at time stamp 8:54, make sure you select “sub-cal”! I was so confused for a bit!
Thanks for that tip! Definitely an oversight on my part.
Doesnt matter, on my denon the left speaker is still playing.
Thanks! He should edit a note on that:-)
Will pb1000 (old version) and pb200proor pb300 work together using minidsp? I have two old pb1000 but i would like to add more powerful sub
I can't set a crossover to my mains and i have my sub crossover set at 40hz. Should I raise my subwoofer crossover and turn off my mains? Please help
Why wouldn’t you have set the receiver the ref level 0db and the. Calibrate to 75db on subs
Can I use minidsp to calibrate 2 subs on emotiva rmc-1? And how
Great video! I just bought a UMIK-1 last week and followed your video to get some sweeps of my sub. If I'm running only 2 subs don't you want to add delay to the second also? If they are about the same distance? I'll be adding a second soon and curious. Looking forward to the next video I'm curious on what to do next as far as calibration with audyseey and if you run it next. I like to run my subs hot usually over 80db to get a final trim of -11. 5 maybe some of this will be answered in the next video 👉. Also one more question I have 2 sub outs on my denon should I run just one to the DSP to control my 2 subs? Or both sub outs to the in of the DSP ?
Just one sub in, mini dsp will split the signal internally.
I noticed that no Phase adjustment was done in the minidsp. Is there a reason why you didn't?
There is a reason. Adjusting phase on the subwoofer itself or adding a time delay using the miniDSP both achieve the same thing. Time aligning is basically adding a delay to one sub to match another, which is essentially what the phase adjustment on a subwoofer does (adding a delay to the input signal). I chose to use the miniDSP as it allows for far more granular control down to a 10th of a millisecond and I also find it easier overall.
Something I've seen kind of unclear, after disabling room correction, setting sub gain to 0, and XO, do you do anything with the old distance levels or leave them where they were? Thank you!
I typically don’t touch the setting unless there’s something REALLY wrong with the final output that is not correctable when you get to the main to sub time alignment stage. The sub distance itself is nothing more than a phase setting/alignment setting for sub to main integration, which can be done in the miniDSP software.
@@HomeTheaterGamer Just confirming during the measuring and setting up dsp, you leave the old sub distance alone on avr? No need to set to 0 like the gain?
@@YourMovieFix If you have an AVR with a microphone that can do auto measurements, I would recommend using it again AFTER you have set everything up in the miniDSP. This is because all of the changes you make in the miniDSP, especially timing delay, will change the distance that your AVR calculated before introducing the MiniDSP. Even the miniDSP itself adds "distance", because there is a process of ADC (analog to digital), DSP (digital signal processing), and then DAC (digital to analog conversion) that takes place. It is fast, but it may introduce as much as a 1ms delay...which is about a foot of distance. Timing is insanely important; while it can help with SPL, it is critical for sound clarity and coherence. It's the whole reason why expensive AVRs come with microphones in the first place.
Hi should I be leaving the output to the left channel (L) when measuring levels on my sub? Or should I be changing the output to LFE? Although I have raised all crossovers and disabled DSP (I think) in my Yamaha receiver I am still getting output from my main channel when using the L channel for the test. Even with the REW setting changed to sub. Not sure if I am perhaps missing something in the Yamaha or if I should switch it to LFE for measuring the level of my sub (I only have one). Thanks for any advice!
Same here with my Denon receiver
Do you need a powerful computer for this task?
Not at all. I often use my nearly 10 year old Windows 10 laptop for REW measurements and calibration and it works fine. A more powerful computer will shave off a few seconds here and there when doing certain things in REW, but for the most part it’s all the same.
Thanks!
When you gain match, do you keep the distance from listening position the same? In my room the Front Sub is 11-9 away and the rear sub is 7-6 away. Does it interfere with the delay time?
I wouldn't worry about the distances too much as time alignment with the miniDSP will take care of that. It shouldn't interfere with the delay time at all.
Cool. I just bought 2 Monoprice THX 10s so I will have to try and gain match them and see how that sounds.
Hi thanks for the explanation, why are you using the 90 degree mic cal file if you are calibrating in stereo ? I read in the minidsp that the normal file is to be used when you are calibrating a single speaker (like a sub) please let me know if I got this wrong.
Since he is measuring three speakers in a HT set-up, the mic is in the vertical position and the 90deg cal file is for that position. If your are measuring a single speaker "near field" for it's performance or a stereo 2.1 system you use the mic in the horizontal position and the 0deg cal file. I hope that helps.
@@welderfixer thanks
The the master volume meant to be at ref? 0db?
It can be but not needed here. If you do want to run it at 0dB, then you'll want to change the tone generator and measurement volume to -30dBfs. Otherwise, you could damage your equipment and possibly hearing running those at REW's default of -12dBfs.
Around 11:50 you said that the ability to time align subs is the main reason to get one but technically you could time align the subs without it since you have a variable phase dial and not only a 0/180 deg switch. All the delay is doing is adjust the point in which the driver moves in and out in relation to the other subwoofers which is the same as using those dials. Good video tho!
@Tyler Stout thanks for the feedback. You are correct. I should have mentioned that for subs with the ability to variably adjust phase, you can time align them without the miniDSP. For subs that lack app control and have a variable dial, I would still prefer the miniDSP instead of using a subwoofer's variable phase dial as I find it easier to play around and find the best setting, plus you can always revert back to the a setting you had previously by putting in a number instead of trying to find the exact spot on the dial again.
This comes down to personal preference and opinion, as one may find one way easier than the other.
@@HomeTheaterGamer For sure! Just wanted to make sure people who wanted that but didn't want the minDSP knew they had an option :)
@@HomeTheaterGamer Isn't the whole purpose of time aligning speakers to be time aligned with ALL other speakers? A bass note on the center channel should be the same instantaneous bass note timing as the subwoofers, left, right, height, etc.... This is the dilemma/issue that I'm fighting with my system. Kind of a big headache that may result in a bunch of audio gear ending up in trash and then a beer run made. hehe
I don't get the same curves when switching between java and FlexASIO when measuring. Anyone knows why that is so?
Nice tutorial but I am stuck with the HDMI out from my receiver to my laptop which I don’t have a HDMI in
In that case, you’d want to use something like a 3.5mm to RCA cable from the audio output on your laptop to the stereo input on your receiver. Similar to this one: amzn.to/3yP8oH8.
@@HomeTheaterGamer I also will have to use a 3.5 to rca from laptop to receiver. Where do the rca’s plug into the receiver?
Where did you place your mic for each sub?
Listening position for all.
why doesnt your do eq first and then time delay ?
Can you tell me why you set the sub to 0.0 in the Denon ?.
We want full control of the level within the miniDSP and don’t want the AVR adjusting the signal at all. It’s basically taking out any variability. You can theoretically have the sub level set to anything in the AVR and as long as you don’t change it, you’d be ok. But, if you set it to -3dB in the AVR, you may end up having to boost it more when doing EQ or after the fact as EQ tends to bring the level down ever so slightly. I’d avoid going over 0dB sub level in the AVR at all costs though as it may introduce distortion and clipping depending on overall volume.
@@HomeTheaterGamer I set the sub to 0.0dB in my marantz. But after running Audyssey it has set the sub to -10db ?
@@Prevstar The -10dB is showing that the "gain" setting on your sub is set higher than Audyssey was expecting, so Audyssey set the AVR output to -10dB to bring the volume level of the sub down to the level it needed. There is thoughts that say that your setting is actually a good way to set up subs so the sub has more available power to the driver and isn't held back by the gain setting being low. Having the gain on the sub high and AVR set low or in the negative is like having a V8 engine when all you are using is a 4 cylinder amount of power. I hope that helps.
So... You don't need to connect HDMI to anything, just send audio to your receiver, integrated, pre, amp, etc. You could do this via analog i.e. Rca I almost didn't get a minidsp because of this. Luckily I checked the minidsp manual
This is true for stereo calibrations. However, with the recent updates to REW and subwoofer calibration and additional features, I would still recommend an HDMI connection if possible. Either the current REW version and an HDMI connection, there is no longer a need to disconnect any speakers when doing subwoofer calibrations or integration with mains.
Tried all this - but they delay ended up cause more issues lol :(
I can t get anything to work.
can you help?!?!?!?!
Strange, usually by my experience, i must set the rear subwoofer 90% of the chance to 180 degree. As long there is a positive summation
My marantz doesnt pop up in the output device section. I only see hdmi
Mine never pops up brand names so what we doing wrong lol
@@stckyjoey1 I just renamed it in my laptop then it showed up on the REW screen
@@JesusChrist-em8gj oh OK. I'll try that 👍
Didn’t try inverting?
you did not mention that you switch from speaker cal to sub cal, that gave me 2 beers and some problems
Wouldn't Pure Direct be more....uh...Pure and Direct...lol.
Super helpful but talks way too fast, requiring constant backing up of video. Please slow down!
His mum banged the Scatman
Lost me around 10 seconds in. lmao. I am basically on caveman level with this stuff.
What part lost you? Maybe I can help you through it.
Wow, what a waste of time. Haven't you heard of Multi-Sub Optimizer tool (MSO)?
You take your REW measurements of each sub separately (Audyssey - off) and repeat the measurement for each seat if more than one MLP is needed. You do the measurements with with acousting time alignment enabled. Then you export all measurements as text files into a new MSO project after it was configured to use Minidsp 2x4HD with 10 PEQ filters. Hit calculate and after a few minutes, MSO will generate you Minidsp PEQ filters, the output gain of each sub, the relative delay, and the shared filter (input PEQ) if needed for a house curve you supply... (not recommended if using Audyssey dynamic EQ).
Once all the filters are loaded into minidsp, you can run Audyssey with only one sub, which is actually a multiple set of subs already calibrated.
My intention with these guides was to keep things as plain and simple as possible, which unfortunately MSO is anything but simple. It’s an amazing piece of software I’m sure but does require a major investment in time to learn how to use it properly. Time I’m already wasting apparently on someone who thinks this video was a waste of time anyway. To that end, I bid you farewell.
@@HomeTheaterGamer
I meant a waste of time going through all the process of manual calibration, which will never give optimum results. MSO has a new wizard which makes the whole process very quick and simple. It takes 3 minutes to setup MSO, once you finished taking the REW measuments.
My mistake. Sorry about that. I’ll have to look into the new wizard they have added to MSO when I get time.
@@ebarbie5016 is there anywhere a tutorial for mso and how to setup it correctly? I would try this maybe
Or just buy antimode and let it to the whole fckn job
@User You can’t calibrate multiple subs with a single antimode that I’m aware of, so it’s not really the same thing. You’re better off with a miniDSP and paying someone to do this for you if you don’t want to take the time to do it.
@@HomeTheaterGamer not even with antimode dual core?
"What's up" and the 'like and subscribe' panhandling - Jesus.
Sorry - way too much walking round the park, unnecessary back story and after the fact explanation. 4x longer than it needed to be.
There are timestamps in the description that can be used to navigate through the video series. This video is also pretty old when I had just started my channel, so I was still figuring out how I wanted to do things.
God forbid I’m not perfect here as a one man show doing everything myself (and early on when I started the channel), but can assure you this is not 4x longer than it needs to be. This series has been pretty popular with over 220,000 views total and has generally been well received.
where do you want your subwoofers gain knob set at when starting REW? And also,do I want my left front speaker still outputting while I am level matching each sub? When I play the pink noise it is still actively playing the noise also. LOL,sorry for the dumb questions!
???
Very helpful Brad! I have a Denon receiver and 2 SVS SB300’s (love the app). Working to get them tuned up. Zildjian. I play them too.
In the playing of the Sub Cal --
1. Should the front speakers be muted?
2. How did you adjust the subwoofer output to ~77 dB? Changing Input gain or changing Output gain?
3. Are you measuring all subwoofers playing at the same time, ie, with all subwoofers unmuted?
4. if the answer to question 3 is YES, should the individual subwoofers first be adjusted to equal dB before measuring with all subwoofers unmuted?
Quick question. I'm about to receive my second sub in the mail next week. When I fallow along with this should I set the first subs DB to 75 using the volume nob on the sub itself and then the second sub using DSP software to match? Or can i just use the volume nob on both. I'm confused as to why you used the svs app for one and not the others? Or is it because you only have one svs sub? Any clarification on that would be greatly appreciated. Or should I set both subs to 12 o'clock and then use the DSP software to set both at 75 DB?
Great video ! Very helpful. Was adding delay to the farthest sub. Caught delay should be added to closer one.
8:48 how did you do that?
Hey there Brad - Merry Chrisrtmas to you and yours - and your channel! A question for you please - While using the miniDSP where the subwoofers are connected as out 1 and out 2 from the dsp and left sub is connected from sub out 1 from the avr to input 1 on the dsp, should the subwoofer speakerssetting in the avr be changed from 2 subwoofers (as was my case before subscribing to you and getting a minidsp!) to show as 1 subwoofer as the dsp is now controlling?- - or does it matter?
I could get no sub output on L as you did, I used LFE and finally got to be able to set the levels of my subs. I hope I’m not doing anything wrong?
how loud do you calibrate? even at -20 db on my receiver I was not getting 75 db C weighted random pink noise in my Umik1... test sound is not clean. it is sparkly. music sounds like it should..
Great video! Easy to understand , you cut out all the jargon and keep it simple. I await EQ video 👍🏽
He never says what his initial gain setting was on the back of the sub,LOL. Must not matter,Oh well.
Start at 50% gain or around there, then level match them like I do in the video. Although it really doesn’t matter as you’ll need to adjust the volume anyway during level matching, so you can start with the sub volume all the way down and then bring it up from there.