Nice. I myself have an Eaton 5PX UPS. Used to be the backup system for my workplace's vintage computer showcase for the prop library, until we closed the warehouse back in June. As they didn't have a use for it, I brought it home and is now my backup system for my 4-PC setup (a windows gaming rig, a linux animation rendering rig, a Mac Pro video rendering rig, and a FreeNAS server).
Nice. I have a newer 1500 model from 2007 and I can confirm it is very heavy, I carried it to a train station with my friend. Some random tidbits I've collected: 1. These units have a problem where the battery voltage calibration drifts, causing the batteries to be floated at a slightly higher voltage and reducing battery lifespan. Using the serial port (and not USB or network) you can change the calibration and correct this. 2. The serial port has a non-standard pinout so it requires a special cable. 3. The 'XL' models supporting extended batteries are the same internally as a standalone model 50% larger; my 1500VA model should be treated like a 1000VA if it is to be run continually off larger batteries. Not really having to do with the UPS but still relevant here: The white sticker on top of one of the units looks like a Dell P/N sticker. The long string has some useful info: The first two letters are the country of origin, the next section is the part number, and the the section with three characters (the fourth section?) encodes the manufacturing date as Year, Month, Day (one character each). The numbers 0-9 have their normal meanings and the letters A-Z represent the numbers 10-25. The year only gives the last digit. If you have anything Dell (including that UPS) this is the quickest way to determine when it was made.
They're great units. I have an older Smart-UPS 1000 that finally popped its clogs a couple of years ago after many years of service. I immediately replaced it with another refurbished unit of the same. I only recently found out about re-calibrating the battery capacity, as the red light (danger, dud battery) comes on when it shouldn't. After re-calibration, it's fine though. Useful tip: the supplied software - Powerchute - will default to deep testing the batteries every fortnight or so. Disable that and test them yourself every few months. By doing that, the original batteries in mine lasted about 8 years or more. I found that Win 10 will not load Powerchute older versions and the newer versions won't recognise old hardware, so I've been using Tripp-Lite Power Console via USB.
cool. My cyberpower has a builtin fan in it and it takes up a very small footprint. Really like it it has builtin management stats like watts used, runtime metrics etc and is quite loaded as far as features and is connected to my computer via usb.
I know I'm late to the party, but that second UPS needs its battery checking. Normally UPS manufacturers aim for a minute or two at their max load. This would give the average computer the time to shut down correctly should the plug be pulled on them. That second UPS dropped like a rock in a matter of seconds, which would point to either one or both of the batteries not working correctly.
Why does the Ethernet card in the UPS have a button cell battery on it? What kind of configuration information does the battery retain in the event of a power loss?
SmartUPS... I call that DumbUPS! APC is since been garbage. Used CyberPower on an ESXi host and it works MUCH better. Can't wait to sunset most of the non-desktop APCs in the fleet. :P
Nice. I myself have an Eaton 5PX UPS. Used to be the backup system for my workplace's vintage computer showcase for the prop library, until we closed the warehouse back in June. As they didn't have a use for it, I brought it home and is now my backup system for my 4-PC setup (a windows gaming rig, a linux animation rendering rig, a Mac Pro video rendering rig, and a FreeNAS server).
Nice. I have a newer 1500 model from 2007 and I can confirm it is very heavy, I carried it to a train station with my friend. Some random tidbits I've collected:
1. These units have a problem where the battery voltage calibration drifts, causing the batteries to be floated at a slightly higher voltage and reducing battery lifespan. Using the serial port (and not USB or network) you can change the calibration and correct this.
2. The serial port has a non-standard pinout so it requires a special cable.
3. The 'XL' models supporting extended batteries are the same internally as a standalone model 50% larger; my 1500VA model should be treated like a 1000VA if it is to be run continually off larger batteries.
Not really having to do with the UPS but still relevant here:
The white sticker on top of one of the units looks like a Dell P/N sticker. The long string has some useful info: The first two letters are the country of origin, the next section is the part number, and the the section with three characters (the fourth section?) encodes the manufacturing date as Year, Month, Day (one character each). The numbers 0-9 have their normal meanings and the letters A-Z represent the numbers 10-25. The year only gives the last digit. If you have anything Dell (including that UPS) this is the quickest way to determine when it was made.
I would've borrowed or rented a dolly if I had to lug those things up and down stairs lol
I always take the batteries out and carry them separately now.
Better than the instruction manual. Thank yoU!
They're great units.
I have an older Smart-UPS 1000 that finally popped its clogs a couple of years ago after many years of service. I immediately replaced it with another refurbished unit of the same. I only recently found out about re-calibrating the battery capacity, as the red light (danger, dud battery) comes on when it shouldn't.
After re-calibration, it's fine though.
Useful tip: the supplied software - Powerchute - will default to deep testing the batteries every fortnight or so. Disable that and test them yourself every few months. By doing that, the original batteries in mine lasted about 8 years or more.
I found that Win 10 will not load Powerchute older versions and the newer versions won't recognise old hardware, so I've been using Tripp-Lite Power Console via USB.
Just tried reviving some of those a few days ago too. Cracked cell in one of the Pack's Cells so time for a fresh Pack.
Wow very powerful
cool.
My cyberpower has a builtin fan in it and it takes up a very small footprint. Really like it it has builtin management stats like watts used, runtime metrics etc and is quite loaded as far as features and is connected to my computer via usb.
I know I'm late to the party, but that second UPS needs its battery checking. Normally UPS manufacturers aim for a minute or two at their max load. This would give the average computer the time to shut down correctly should the plug be pulled on them. That second UPS dropped like a rock in a matter of seconds, which would point to either one or both of the batteries not working correctly.
👍🤓😎👍🤘
Why does the Ethernet card in the UPS have a button cell battery on it? What kind of configuration information does the battery retain in the event of a power loss?
Presumably IP information, like whether the IP is static or dynamic, and static IP information, if applicable.
Ups is an uninterrupted power supply for anyone who doesent know
Are they agm batteries or normal lead acid
AGM.
Can this inverter run a fredge
@@kamalelidrissi2629 Probably.
@@themaritimegirl can test it in a vidio
SmartUPS... I call that DumbUPS! APC is since been garbage. Used CyberPower on an ESXi host and it works MUCH better. Can't wait to sunset most of the non-desktop APCs in the fleet. :P
lmao