Yeeco® Digital Multimeter DC6.5-100V 100A Voltage Amperage Review
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- Опубліковано 11 чер 2016
- Yeeco® Digital Multimeter DC6.5-100V 100A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter Voltmeter Ammeter DC Voltage Current Volt Amp Meter Tester Gauge Power Monitor Measuring LCD Display with 100A/75mV Shunt
Quite excited to have my first sponsored gadget review. I am very impressed with this multimeter and have wanted to try one for awhile; thanks Yeeco for sending this to test! Buy one from Amazon prime, handy product at a good price.
Link below
link
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01... - Навчання та стиль
When I set the required voltage, the display will flash. So I want to ask if he has any signal or control output. Somewhere on the board.
how much does the meter draw as i was going to wire one to my trailer tent battery bank and dont want a constant drain on them also can you show a little better of the wiring thanks
How hard are these to mount? Surface Mount? Got to cut a rectangular hole to flush mount? Screws? That is the same as on Ebay (much cheaper)?
Jeff Goldblum doing reviews over here! =D
Thanks for showing it
How can I hook this up to my car amp to see what voltage and amp draw i never used one orderd it and dont understand how to hook it up its the same as this id like to hook up in my vehicle and hook to see amp draw from battery to amplifier and voltage
Thanks for the video. I'm about to install one in my new travel trailer. With a simple dpdt switch, I will be able to switch between seeing amps in to amps out. Thought I'd say something because lots of people are asking about that. Good luck!
That's a brilliant ideal... I hope you don't mind if i use it. Thanks brother!!!
Actually after posting that I realized that using a on/off/on 3pdt switch you could turn off the display and have both directions for current! Only downside is that watt hours will add either way
I drew out the circuit. Let me know if you want a picture of it. I don't have a channel or Facebook but I could email it...
@@warsoki do you still have the wiring diagram?
Does anyone know if this meter can be used on a 48 volt ebike ? The instructions say to connect to the negative load terminal, but is that the load terminal before it goes into the controller or after the controller ? Thanks in advance if anyone knows.
Have you run the watts passed 999 yet to see what the gauge does?
I have so far only got to 5:54 and would like to say that I wish you had NOT focused on the meter while you connected the wires to the shunt. I would REALLY like to know how to do THAT. I have one of these, just got it in the mail today, and am having some challenges figuring out how to wire it onto my battery for my solar power system. OTHERWISE, I am enjoying this video . I am just relearning electronics after about 50 years. I'm from back when transistors were new and IC's were not really affordable. Anyway, thanks for the low BS quotient. Very helpful.
Hey, you think YOU"RE old, pnolans? My first electronics projects used vacuum tubes! My grandfather was a radio technician with B.C. Airways and a ham radio operator, so I learned a bit from him. Unfortunately I was too stupid to really get into it when I had the chance; he died young and with him went a hell of a lot of knowledge.
Just make sure that the shunt is connected to the negative side of the battery and that you don't make contact to the positive side of the battery any other terminal except the one marked on the back of the meter as (+) and you will be fine.
Nice explanation. Thank you.
how did you connect your power supply and the load/battery?
I want to use this to display on my ebike
How do I connect
IS there calibration for voltage / current?
Do you know if we mast use a Fuse?If yes,how many amperes?
sir, if the wattmeter is off, will iit still override the previous readings? or will it start at the beginning?
The .2 volt discrepency between the two meters is voltage drop.
Whats the name brand of your power supply you are using and where you get it?
Question. Can i safely use one of these with the proper shunt in my car audio setup? Ive been looking at them for a while now. I currently have two volt meters. One for my auxiliary and one for my primary. But being able to monitor my alternator amperage would be pretty nice. Thank you in advance for taking your time to make this video!
Yes you can, but the shunt needs to be on the ground side of the alltinator
What votage required for running the meter
I installed the shunt inline between car battery and deep cycle battery in the trunk, on the negative cable. When I start the car the amp-meter reads 0 as if no amps are passing through to charge the deep cycle battery, and though it still shows the right voltage of 14.5 volts. I am sure that the deep cycle battery is low and need some charge.
I moved the shunt and placed it it on the negative between deep cycle and the load going out of the deep cycle battery, and it worked, it read the few amps coming out. Can some one explains why nothing happened in the first case?
100Amp shunt, the two batteries are disconnected when voltage is below 13.3 volts, the amp-meter is receiving its power from solar control charger load output, and its two other cable connected to the shunt
Can this work on a 48 volt system of a golf cart? ( I have 6 8 volt batteries) The rated volts and amp would seem to work.
I suspect a drain of current in the system, and this history of amp draw should measure it.
Thanks for your reply
Yes, it will work great for that application, it will keep track of the watthours drawn from the batteries, and if you calculate the watthours of your battery pack, that is the amphours of one battery multiplyed by the nomnal system voltage around 49 volts and you will be able to keep track of exactly how much you have remaining, a much better fuel gauge than those little LED bargraff displays, yes these meaters will display just over 10,000 watts at full ratted current and voltage. The only downside is that they only mesure I one direction, enother words discharge verses charge, however a quick fix is to install a DPDT cross wired switch on the sense leads that go to the shunt, unfortunately it still won't count down, so you have to reset the amphours and flip the switch to charge before you start the charging process, otherwise it'll add the discharge and charge together and display that value.
Will this show true soc?
At around 5:00 you show the shelf on which your power supply sits. To the right of your power supply is a light green device with a metal wheel. I am curious what that is. It looks like a toy tractor or a simple sewing machine. Oh, and I enjoyed the video on the Power Meter also
HI i want to use this to measure watt hours of mobility scooter -24v 900 watt motor. the instantanous current at start up may well exceed 100 amps falling quickly as motor generates back emf. Can this meter cope with instantanous surges do you think?
is it just so quick as to not affect the meter? Would like to know your views thanks
Yes, it will work quite well for that application, and I rebuild the motors for the mobility scooter's, and I can tell you from experience that unless you have a highly modified controller you will never see a hundred amps to those motors your looking at 60 tops 30 per motor.
I got this and they sent me the wrong shunt now I have no idea what to do with this thing
I have one of these on my electric boat. It works great, the motor draws around 45A@12v. It lets me keep track of how much power I've drawn out of the batteries. I got it for around $20 shipped on aliexpress.
Thanks for comments. I would like to hear from more people about these types of meters.. I am getting ready to do a segment of installing it in my RV.... Have a Great day!!
i've just received one and am currently wiring it into the box for the leisure battery that runs my garage (its too far from the house to get mains).
typical ebay, no instructions so trying to figure it out via youtube! :( seems to work ok but an odd thing is at low power, it only reads current with the backlight OFF, higher draw is ok though :/
if this works well i'll probably out one in my campervan too so your RV segment would be really useful :)
thanks for explaining the button functions! :)
Hello and thanks for the comments and questions. i don't have an answer about the low power but the instructions for the button is below.. Good luck with your project and keep us updated.
III Button
1. The backlight control
By short press the button to turn on or off the backlight, the backlight status automatic storage.
2. The power cleared
Step 1: Press the button until the power area show "CLr" character, then release the button;
Step 2: At this point in the power consumption flashing indicating the current status is cleared, if short press the button again, the consumption data is cleared and cleared quit flashing;
Step 3: If no key is pressed within five seconds, it means that the power does not clear the data and exit cleared.
3. The voltage alarm value
Step 1: Press the button until the power area show "SET" character, then release the button;
Step 2: After entering this state, the voltage of the high pressure area shows the current alarm value, the current area displays the current value of low pressure alarm, and the least significant bit starts flashing, then you can press the button through the +1 bit short, when there is no button operation When more than three seconds, the automatic adjustment of the position switch from high pressure to low pressure alarm alarm value has a value, a total of six, the scope voltage alarm threshold set for the 6.5 ~ 99.9V;
Step 3: After setting, press the button until the display shows "PASS" character indicates the setting is successful and automatically exit the setting mode.
4. Range Selector
Step 1: Press the button until the power area show "Curr" character, then release the button;
Step 2: At this point the current area displays "100 A", short press button between "100 A" and "50 A" switch, in order to represent the external current range is 100A / 75mV or 50A / 75mV, attention The table can only use these two specifications shunt.
Step 3: Press the button until you exit the setting mode or no key operation is automatically saved after 3 seconds and exit the setting mode.
brilliant, thank you :)
+Don Brandt. I was wondering are you on negative or positive to the shunt? thank you for your time. I have hooked up my meter and can't get amp read out. The directions say to hook up on negative?
OK, so from what I gather from your other comments, is that if I'm running a 30 amp ebike motor from a 30 amp lion battery, I should not need the shunt. Is that correct ? I can just twist and marret the 3 negatives together, and then run them to the meter ? Thanks.
I purchased two and both of them are also about 40 - 60% off when compared to a watt meter that only has red black in and red black out from hurricane solar on the same load. it showed my refrigerator using 50watts while the other meter shows it using about 110 watts using the same inverter.... any suggestions or is it busted?
Were you using this meter on AC power? If so, you have bought the wrong meter. This meter measures DC only.
I like this little meter. But, this is a 100 amp meter. My battery cables are 10 times thicker than anything that can fit into those tiny little Phoenix connectors on that meter. Do you think that little Phoenix connector can handle 50 - 75 Amps, which is my average current demand on my batteries on a good day? I am going to biy one and strip it down and see how it has been built. Please reply here and let me know what you think.
Thanks Don, I've ordered this meter and I think it will be a great piece of kit for my set up. I see you say that you can charge other batteries off your 12v battery, hopefully you can answer my question I have please.
In my off grid workshop I have a 100w solar panel going through a 20A controller and into a 12v 130ah battery, that’s working great. On the controller I also have a LOAD output that I have going to my lights, what I would like to know is if I can split that output and feed it into my motorbike battery (12v) to keep it topped up. When I look at my charger that I have used that plugs into the house power socket, it states Output 12v / 800mA. If I can feed a cable to the LOAD on the controller and to the bike battery, will it act as a trickle charge or what will happen once the bike battery has fully charged? Thanks a lot
I don't think you can do that. The charge controller load output circuitry is expecting pure loads, not an actual secondary power source.
I am not sure, but I think the controller that feeds the lights is an inverter. I think it is quite safe to say that you can connect your bike directly to the battery that supplies the inverter (Supply Battery). I would also suggest that you install a Schottky diode in series between your supply battery and your bike. That way, if if the supply battery voltage gets lower than the bikes battery for any reason, then the battery power on the bike won't flow back into the supply battery and the solar panels, but I guess you already have diodes installed on them.
@@gandalf87264 thank you Paul 🙏
How long can the wires be from the shunt before you start losing accuracy on the meter?
Great Question. My wires are about 6 foot and i don't notice any problems.
-don
10:38 I want more! Flamez XD
Thanks!!
Thanks for watching, I hope my video helped! -cheers
Thanks...
So how would one affix the shunt? I'm installing in a panel. Did the shunt just hang loose or Did you use some sort of clamps, straps or screws to keep the shunt from floating freely?
8:10 6.33V x 0.08A = 0.51W Looks good. Thanks for the movie.
That proves..
what if current flows backwards does the energy decreases
Good question, Barut Tech! How about it, Don? Do the watt-hours(lower right) decrease as you remove energy from, say, a battery?
hey Don just wondering if you can help me out i just bought this meter as well just need help with the wiring i am going to using it on my battery bank for my solar panels i have all the small wire wired up it is the shunt where the larger nuts and bolts are where do they get wired to thanks chris
to see the diagram look at the last pic on the amazon page goo.gl/XZaz3s
if you have any question after reviewing it, let me know. -cheers
Don Brandt thanks don the wires are to big to fit on my charge controler any suggestions
what is the best way to send you a picture i just want to make sure this is right
You can post to imgur.com/ No account needed, then send me the link
it is just a picture of the the diagram you told me to look at so the shunt goes on the black wire just after the solar panels and before the charge controler
Good video
What is the price of the meter
shame eis wont measure 4.50v and up. wanted to test a usb device
look here, this one works down to 3 Volts
www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-Voltmeter-Voltage-Display/dp/B00C2NTJHS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1475247843&sr=8-4&keywords=digital+voltmeter
Don Brandt zz
Sorry, message jumped, thanks for the info.
Could I use this meter with lipo batteries?
Sure you can!
Don - what is the purpose of the shunt? Other brands don't appear to provide with a shunt? Thanks.
The shunt in used in this case because the system is 100 amp. There may be another way to wire them with a different device. I'm not sure.The wiring diagram @ 2.51 shows hot it fits in with the shunt. I know if you were going to carry 100 amp wire to your gauge it would be a little unwieldy. Thanks for the question. If you happen to have a link for 100 amp that doesn't have a shunt. Send me a link and ill check it out. -Cheers!
Thanks for the quick response. I just bought the meter for monitoring my pop up camper battery. Should never see 100 amps, unless a gross short. Didn't see shunt with other devices. Appreciate your good video and help.
I have a similar question about this shunt, i want to use this meter between the solar panels and the leisure batteries in the campervan, to monitor the voltage and amps being supplied from the solar panels to the batteries. Do i still need to include the shunt in the setup? Also if the batteries are rated at more than 100A will it damage this meter?
The shunt is required for the 100 amps. If you think about it, small diameter wire cant handle large amperes. If you watch this video you can see me putting the shunt in the larger diameter wire. Yes, the shunt can handle over 100 amps. As i found out afterwards, the starting of the generator draws more that 100. If you want to only use a 20 amp gauge, the shunt is not needed. what would be the max amps you think you would need to measure? I can help you figure what you need. -Cheers
Two 110 Amp 12V batteries in parallel = 220 amps in total.
I bought one but the current is read half of what it should be
Does the meter come with a shunt? If it does can you read me what it says on the Shunt.
I figured it out, I had to go into the menu and change the mode to 100 amps.
Shaun Dobbie great. Thanks for letting us know
Shaun Dobbie that is one of my questions, I have a 3000w inverter and I want to use a larger shunt. On the menu, can you change the shunt size?
You can only choose between 50 and 100 amps I think.
Not a clear pic on how to wire it
Super 👌 sir
Do u have to have a shunt
Yes, the shunt is what actually measures the current from one small screw to the other. The monitor box translates the reading.
Good
can i use this to my electric bicycle? how to order? thank you
Just an FYI, that's not the proper way to "tin leads". You should heat the wire first then melt the solder directly onto the wire. This way it will allow the resin (which is in the core of the solder) to melt first and properly clean the copper and adhere completely. If you simply dip the wire in solder, then you are not cleaning off the oxidation first which could lead to cold solder joints and/or resistance in the circuit.
You are correct, her is a good example of how to tin wires...
ua-cam.com/video/xpiyB7ZM3vg/v-deo.html
Just wipe the fingerprints off your camera lens before recording. That will get rid of the light glare
"I'm not balance charging, I don't have that problem. If they die I have plenty of them"
Ohhhhhh boy you really didn't think about that one for more than half a nanosecond did ya? If its true that your cells aren't going out of balance tha's great! But I've never seen a pack that didn't drift a bit after 50-100 cycles. I've seen packs drift apart after a few cycles...like to the point of there being a 70mv difference when they were originally only 5mv apart.
Every time you slap 16.8V into that pack you take a risk that one cell is higher than the other 3. And if three of them are 330mv lower than the lone wolf you have a cell at 5.20V while the rest are at 3.90V
That's not a problem. That's an explosion.
Nice device, but i think, that meter will melt or burn with a 100A... 😆 Don't you?
No it can handle the hi amps mine is a drok multimeter that is exactly identical
Clean your lens. Found it hard to watch
Ya he could not figure out where the blue glow around the meter was coming from when the meter back light was on:-|
OK, JONNY.-/
I have this same power meter but with a through the wire coil instead of a shunt. It's a PZEM-061 model. I made a video comparison of it to D69-2049 in a video ua-cam.com/video/3KgfGuSWlRg/v-deo.html here.
Glad he could help you
"sponsored" means you are a shill. accept the charge!
so confuzing
It is not point eleven amps. It is one hundred and ten milliamps.
You have no idea how to read the meter nor understand math.
thanks for the correction