Yeah it was heaps of work, more work than I wanted to be involved with. But once I sunk my teeth into the project and found support from Roberto who donated me exactly what I needed there was no stopping me. Some people probably would have just tried to start it. But I figured, if the chassis is rusty and crashed but new, then the engine is likely to be rusty but new. So that’s why I invested the time. I didn’t want rust from bearings or crank destroying the compression. Today I gave it a start to clear the fuel out of the carb and lines. It started very easily. Will try to hit the two speed if it stops raining otherwise I have 4 touring cars that need work
Not done right he destroyed the sleeve bore because he was afraid of heat. His collet raked across it and chewed it up. And you dont want to pull inner race of bearing when locked on outer race housing unless you don't care about bearing he got used to heat as video went on and more luck...good learning on camera!
Hi! You are not wrong! I made a mess of both cases for sure. Cracked the fins on the first case and scored the inside of the case on the second case as you mentioned. Correct 11:57 I pulled the rear bearing from the inner race. Since I used this case in the end I should have just left it there in hindsight. How would you have pulled this bearing if you needed it for a different engine? Well besides using heat and smashing it in a table like the Bug404 which doesn’t work on old rusty bearings. What is the correct procedure?
@@inzp3ctor More heat when pulling sleeve if you had used alot of heat the aluminum expands alot more than brass and the sleeve would have pulled out just using the small edge on top. Or you can do what you tried with piston let it catch the edge of sleeve and stick and use crank and piston to push up on sleeve only after heated obviously. The collet wasnt bad idea if you could have adjusted it in a way that it didnt rake the bore not sure if that was possible only you were there for that setup. As far as the bearing if you didnt want it to be so stubborn more heat again. But as you said if it didnt need out then leave it and if it did need out then hurting it wasn't a problem because thats one of the only replaceable parts you had in possession. As far as bearing install and pulling it in at the end of video better to acquire something that was close to outer race diameter and pressed in straight after case was heated if you couldnt acquire that then get one more of same size bearing set it behind bearing being set in housing and use its inner race to pull with while case is hot that way your not pulling on the inner race of the bearing your going to use in the engine. Hard to come by engine I have one myself. Lastly before installing piston sleeve after the collet carnage you should have polished the bore up a bit from the pulled up metal and remnants of the carnage and then sleeve and piston might have been able to operate properly still.
Wow that was a long and painful process. Good job you took your time to do it right though. There was a lot of rust.
Yeah it was heaps of work, more work than I wanted to be involved with. But once I sunk my teeth into the project and found support from Roberto who donated me exactly what I needed there was no stopping me. Some people probably would have just tried to start it. But I figured, if the chassis is rusty and crashed but new, then the engine is likely to be rusty but new. So that’s why I invested the time. I didn’t want rust from bearings or crank destroying the compression. Today I gave it a start to clear the fuel out of the carb and lines. It started very easily. Will try to hit the two speed if it stops raining otherwise I have 4 touring cars that need work
Not done right he destroyed the sleeve bore because he was afraid of heat. His collet raked across it and chewed it up. And you dont want to pull inner race of bearing when locked on outer race housing unless you don't care about bearing he got used to heat as video went on and more luck...good learning on camera!
Hi! You are not wrong! I made a mess of both cases for sure. Cracked the fins on the first case and scored the inside of the case on the second case as you mentioned.
Correct 11:57 I pulled the rear bearing from the inner race. Since I used this case in the end I should have just left it there in hindsight. How would you have pulled this bearing if you needed it for a different engine? Well besides using heat and smashing it in a table like the Bug404 which doesn’t work on old rusty bearings. What is the correct procedure?
@@inzp3ctor More heat when pulling sleeve if you had used alot of heat the aluminum expands alot more than brass and the sleeve would have pulled out just using the small edge on top. Or you can do what you tried with piston let it catch the edge of sleeve and stick and use crank and piston to push up on sleeve only after heated obviously. The collet wasnt bad idea if you could have adjusted it in a way that it didnt rake the bore not sure if that was possible only you were there for that setup. As far as the bearing if you didnt want it to be so stubborn more heat again. But as you said if it didnt need out then leave it and if it did need out then hurting it wasn't a problem because thats one of the only replaceable parts you had in possession.
As far as bearing install and pulling it in at the end of video better to acquire something that was close to outer race diameter and pressed in straight after case was heated if you couldnt acquire that then get one more of same size bearing set it behind bearing being set in housing and use its inner race to pull with while case is hot that way your not pulling on the inner race of the bearing your going to use in the engine. Hard to come by engine I have one myself. Lastly before installing piston sleeve after the collet carnage you should have polished the bore up a bit from the pulled up metal and remnants of the carnage and then sleeve and piston might have been able to operate properly still.