Great video. Others should learn from you. Straight to the point without all the razzle dazzle !! No unneeded clips of the dogs and children roaming around in the background.
Quick tip for those using the little blue pins on the rear of the block to install the gasket ... it's not explained that you will have one PITA getting the pan to line up especially with having the converter cover on so get ready. Wish he didn't cut that section off but I left the tip for future installers. It's not that simple on this step.
Outstanding! I just bought an 89 YJ Wrangler and the rear seal is leaking like a sieve! Great camera work, thank you for not doing the one-handed camera while working shots! I think I can do this now after watching your video. Thanks you. Subbed.
Thank you sir. Awesome detailed video. FYI: He was not joking about feeding the top rear main seal with the little paper thing. If you don't, it'll cut the top part of the seal if the wire inside of it gets crimped and rubs up against the sharp edges of the hole it goes in. I fucked mine up that way.
Man I needed this video. I just changed my oil yesterday got everything buttoned up let the Jeep run shut it off and it started pouring oil from the drive side.
Heck I was always told you have to pull the tranny to replace rear main seal. Now having seen this, I think I'll be able to save a few hundred bucks and do it myself. Thank you for the AWESOME video. great quality how to!
Pulling the transmission usually will depend on whether you have a 1 or 2 piece rear main seal. If it's a 1 piece circular seal, you have to install it with the flywheel or flex plate removed. Of course you have to remove the trans to do so. The two piece seals like you saw in this video can be installed with the trans in.
I noticed u didn’t offset the seal? Lots of what I’ve read says to offset it. Kinda makes sense to me. Also u didn’t use anaerobic sealant on the key areas of the mating surface? Curious how the repair held up? Thanks buddy
Thanks for the very clear and detailed walk through of this. As I was watching I thought to myself... "Nice, the Haynes manual was wrong; I don't actually need to disconnect the exhaust manifold, remove motor mount bolts, and raise the motor to get enough clearance." Then I got to the part where you said you have about 3.5" of lift. For a stock height Jeep is your "just raise the vehicle and allow the suspension to droop" method going to provide enough room for wiggling the oil pan out over the axle? Then back again in place without messing up the new gasket.
In my experience it is not enough. Just dropped the oil pan today. At stock height I removed the sway bar endlinks and unmounted the shocks from the tower. I was then able to put the stock jack between the axle and frame to get the clearance I needed.
Thanks for the video, I’m replacing every seal from the valve cover to the rear main the first week it’s warm ...you have assisted in taking the mystery out and I see I won’t have to pull the front axel. Thanks a lot man. I’ll be using a plastic punch though, just watching that made me cringe
Did you have to drop the transmission on it at all? or was it just the oil pan? And for the oil pan did you have to drop the axel or does it just slip over with the lift?
I haven't been in an '00 up. Had not seen the main girdle. I wonder if that increases rigidity at all. I imagine pre '00 would need different main bolts to add that. Any comments? Thanks for the excellent video.
Rich Tyler did you do this step by step process some say use rtv between the main cap some say use lock tight. He didn't use any in the video. Neither did I. Did you and if not do you have any leaks?
How did you remove the two bolts on the back of the oil pan that are up against the dip on the oil pan? Doesn’t look like enough clearance between the bolt and pan to fit a socket
MUY BUEN TRABAJO GRACIAS POR BRINDARNOS TU EXPERIENCIA, HICE LO MISMO PERO SACAR ESA EMPAQUETADURA ME COSTÓ UN HUEVO 🥚 HAHAHAHA, HASTA QUE SALIÓ Y PUDE RESPIRAR 🧘♀️ DE FELICIDAD.
Thank you so much for talking slow, which reallh helps me on this. Some people go way too fast. Can I do this without a lift and why did the starter need to be removed? I have heard to use 5w 30 oil. Very confusing what to use. I dont know the shape of my oil pan. May get under it and look tonight. Great video. I assume you pull the piece of paper out when doing the upper main seal. My jeep is an 04 in line six. Probably nuts to spend money on an old jeep but it is fun to watch all these repair videos. I just had the radiator leak so I am going to try to chase the oil leak and do all four of what you mentioned. Should I do the water pump too it's not cheap for a lifetime warranty one. You advise would be appreciated.
you can do this without a lift. having the front suspension at full droop will help with getting the oil pan out. I wouldn't go any thinner than 10w30 on these engines. I use shell rotela t5 10w30 in the winter. the summer time I'll use a quart of the Lucas oil stabilizer with the rotela t5. I didn't like this Mopar filter I install in the video. it seemed to have pretty bad oil drain back which gave me lifter tap on cold starts. Yes I pulled the piece of paper out after install the upper rear main seal. if you don't know the history of the water pump I would replace it. they are somewhat known to fault at about 150K. thanks for watching
@@TheOffRoadCorner Thanks I did put t5 rotella in but freinds were worried its to thick for nebraska weather. It's been down to 1 degrees this last week. I have a suspension issue now maybe a wheel bearing or ball joint. Hard to work on when it's this cold.
So, I let the screw driver slip and damaged the bearing cap insert I guess? Its the C shaped piece that sits in the wide part. You think sanding it with some fine sandpaper will be ok? I can't get a replacement part and I need to put this back together asap
the white paper is just there to help protect and guide the seal when installed into the upper channel. think of it as a shoe horn. it shouldn't pass through the upper channel.
I had to buy another top seal because it ripped and bent, I guess I put the shoe horn on the outside whereas you placed it on the inside and you folded it but I don’t know exactly why
I didn’t remove anything from the front end. I do have the suspension at full droop and My jeep has a 3.5” lift which definitely help. The steering drag link is about the only thing that gets in the way a little but the pan will come out if you droop the front suspension out.
Note: I HAD to use the “shoehorn” piece of paper on the outer side of the seal for install. It went in super easy once I had the piece of paper in the right spot. It would not go in by hand otherwise.
@@TheOffRoadCorner Nice! Looked it up and saw it was 500 bucks lol. Might be too much for me to spend for a super amateur car guy. I'll stick to the ACDelco digi wrench amazon offers. Keep up the videos man. Definitely liking the content.
Wow 500 is a lot! Here’s a link to what I’ve got www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/TRA200K/1-4-drive-fixed-40-200-in-lbs-torque-wrench/ 320 is still a lot lol! Tekton makes a pretty good one. Here’s a link www.tekton.com/1-4-inch-drive-dual-direction-click-torque-wrench-trq21101
Is it not a good idea to try and clean up inside of the engine when you have the girdle and the oil pan off like if you can see sludge on the Pistons or anywhere else
I've seen a lot of people put rtv on the rear main cap when they reinstall it but you didn't mention it. Did you just not record it or do you not think it's needed? I need to do this on my Jeep, it has had a slow rms leak since I bought it 6 years ago.
I forgot rtv first time, had to tear it down again at next oil change.. put rtv also in rear and front of the oil pan.. seems to be sealed now.. Also, on a non lifted xj it's a pain to remove oil pan.. 🤪 loosened shocks and sway bar. Also, no need to remove starter..
@ jon hart I actually didn’t put any rtv between the engine block and the rear main cap. I was afraid if I put any RTV between them that it might change the bearing clearance on the crank journal.
@ Thomas hijertstrom. I’ve done that before. It’s not fun redoing it hahaha. Yeah probably didn’t need to take the starter off but I think it gave me more for cleaning the mating surface. I Imagine stock there no more at all up front.
You can use RTV on the older style rear main caps, but the later years caps like the one on this video, you would need to use LOCTITE 515. Regular RTV is too thick. Watch the link below. ua-cam.com/video/_a7QpBvzreE/v-deo.html
Here is a link to the one I’m using And had it for years. It’s $500 its pretty expensive. www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/TRA200K/1-4-drive-fixed-40-200-in-lbs-torque-wrench/ If you’re looking for a cheaper one but still good check Teton tools. Theyre good tools and a little bit more reasonable. Here’s a link www.tekton.com/1-4-inch-drive-dual-direction-click-torque-wrench-trq21101 No affiliation with either company. I just like there tools
Question! I got my 2001 jeep grand cherokee, with the 4.0. I wanna do my rear main seal as well, is the procedure the same from this video I just watched??
Thanks for the reply, but I've already did the rear main seal. About a month ago and it was the same, I did a motor swap and I changed the gaskets on my new motor on a stand and the new motor is in and I've been driving it for a little bit now with no issues or leaks! Thanks for the video as well man!
it might say diesel oil on the side of the jug but its a 10w30 weight which is more of a gas engine weight oil. the shell rotella t5 10w30 oil has a higher zinc content then most conventional oils nowadays
bullshit i have a 96 xj the bolts where easy to get to but i cant get it out. front axle is in the way and no idea how to get it out. the oil pan just doesnt drop out that easy on a xj unlrss you have a lift.
This part of the process is frustrating I know. the oil pan doesn’t just drop out when you take the bolts out. You may to twist it a certain way clear everything ie steering, axle, dipstick tube and oil pickup tube. Try disconnecting your shock and trackbar. That will allow the front axle to droop further down. If your jeep is stock than our are the same droop wise. I have longer shocks but they don’t fully extend at full droop.
That's what I had to do I had to undo my shocks front. Undo the sway bar and took a scissor jack and had to shove my front axle downwards. Then I was able to get the pan off and on. If the oil pan was about an inch less. Meaning the piece that hangs down the front of the oil pan where all the oil sets. If that was about an inch shorter not tallness but width from front to back it could make it without any extra time.
Great video. Others should learn from you. Straight to the point without all the razzle dazzle !! No unneeded clips of the dogs and children roaming around in the background.
Quick tip for those using the little blue pins on the rear of the block to install the gasket ... it's not explained that you will have one PITA getting the pan to line up especially with having the converter cover on so get ready. Wish he didn't cut that section off but I left the tip for future installers. It's not that simple on this step.
Great step by step video. Joe got excited when he saw this. He said “ when I have to do this; I’ll definitely be watching Drew’s video” ❤️🐞
Thank you bug! I’m glad my video can help you guys.
I need to do this too. I have a decent leak.
The voice over is funny to me for some reason but I enjoy it
Outstanding! I just bought an 89 YJ Wrangler and the rear seal is leaking like a sieve! Great camera work, thank you for not doing the one-handed camera while working shots! I think I can do this now after watching your video. Thanks you. Subbed.
Thanks man! Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching!
Thank You for the clear, concise video without extra fluff and nonsense that is rampant on YT. Liked and Subscribed! 👍
I used an 11 mm for most of the oil pan bolts. The bigger ones were 13 mm. for me.
Thank you sir. Awesome detailed video.
FYI: He was not joking about feeding the top rear main seal with the little paper thing. If you don't, it'll cut the top part of the seal if the wire inside of it gets crimped and rubs up against the sharp edges of the hole it goes in. I fucked mine up that way.
Awesome video! As someone who learns by observation, you really helped me complete the job. 👍🏽
Man I needed this video. I just changed my oil yesterday got everything buttoned up let the Jeep run shut it off and it started pouring oil from the drive side.
That will I like to hear haha. I always hope my videos help people out. Thanks for watching
Thank you for your video. Followed your clear instructions. No leaks!
Man here I was thinking I had to drop the transmission and transfer case. Hell yeah. You earned a like.
Heck I was always told you have to pull the tranny to replace rear main seal. Now having seen this, I think I'll be able to save a few hundred bucks and do it myself. Thank you for the AWESOME video. great quality how to!
Pulling the transmission usually will depend on whether you have a 1 or 2 piece rear main seal. If it's a 1 piece circular seal, you have to install it with the flywheel or flex plate removed. Of course you have to remove the trans to do so. The two piece seals like you saw in this video can be installed with the trans in.
I noticed u didn’t offset the seal? Lots of what I’ve read says to offset it. Kinda makes sense to me. Also u didn’t use anaerobic sealant on the key areas of the mating surface? Curious how the repair held up? Thanks buddy
My 01 XJ needs this done as well. Thanks for the video.
Awesome and very informative!
Thanks for taking the time to film and explain this.
Thanks for the very clear and detailed walk through of this. As I was watching I thought to myself... "Nice, the Haynes manual was wrong; I don't actually need to disconnect the exhaust manifold, remove motor mount bolts, and raise the motor to get enough clearance." Then I got to the part where you said you have about 3.5" of lift.
For a stock height Jeep is your "just raise the vehicle and allow the suspension to droop" method going to provide enough room for wiggling the oil pan out over the axle? Then back again in place without messing up the new gasket.
It’s should. I have stock control arms and a stock track bar which limit the suspension droop before my lift shocks will.
@@TheOffRoadCorner Thanks.
In my experience it is not enough. Just dropped the oil pan today. At stock height I removed the sway bar endlinks and unmounted the shocks from the tower. I was then able to put the stock jack between the axle and frame to get the clearance I needed.
Your video helped me a lot. thanks
Thanks for the video, I’m replacing every seal from the valve cover to the rear main the first week it’s warm ...you have assisted in taking the mystery out and I see I won’t have to pull the front axel.
Thanks a lot man. I’ll be using a plastic punch though, just watching that made me cringe
I’m glad I could help. Plastic punch would be go but you will have to get rough with removing the top seal. Brass punch might be a better option
The Off Road Corner Advised; thank you
Buenísimo el video. Saludos desde Neuquén, patagonia Argentina
Appreciate a simple video straight to the point very educational thanks brother I will attempt to change mines since is leaking
I guess we all have the same issues.
Thank you for this video! It really helped me when I changed my rear main.
The main girdle bolts are 14 mm. And he should seal the main rear seal with silicone on the mating ends, or it will leak.
What a great video. Well done in every way.
Thanks
Wow amazing video!!! Very well done.
Nice job Drew.Good call on the Rotella.I use T-6 in the summer and Rotella Gas Truck 5-W30 for the winter.
Thanks man. I’ve been pretty happy with this oil. Seem like pretty good stuff
Did you have to drop the transmission on it at all? or was it just the oil pan? And for the oil pan did you have to drop the axel or does it just slip over with the lift?
nice video - well, to get the oil pan out, usually is a pita with stock XJs. Did you just untighten the shocks and drop the front axle ? Thanks.
Outstanding video, doing mine Sunday
Excellent video will be referencing when I tackle this in a week
Amazing video and professional, thinking about buying cherokee with a likely leaking rear main
It appears on my TJ I’ll also have to remove the exhaust away from the oil pan.
What is the average time spent in this repair?
I haven't been in an '00 up. Had not seen the main girdle. I wonder if that increases rigidity at all. I imagine pre '00 would need different main bolts to add that. Any comments? Thanks for the excellent video.
Where do you find the Rotella t5??? I can only find it in diesel.... thanks for the video... it's super helpful
This was such a great informative video. Thank you so much
Rich Tyler did you do this step by step process some say use rtv between the main cap some say use lock tight. He didn't use any in the video. Neither did I. Did you and if not do you have any leaks?
Helped me alot thanks!
Glad to help. Thanks for watching!
How did you remove the two bolts on the back of the oil pan that are up against the dip on the oil pan? Doesn’t look like enough clearance between the bolt and pan to fit a socket
Hi man blz . do you have any video about, overheating of the jeep cherokee xj?
Do you recommend the lucas oil stabilizer I have a 1996 cherokee xj 4.0
Excellent!
MUY BUEN TRABAJO GRACIAS POR BRINDARNOS TU EXPERIENCIA, HICE LO MISMO PERO SACAR ESA EMPAQUETADURA ME COSTÓ UN HUEVO 🥚 HAHAHAHA, HASTA QUE SALIÓ Y PUDE RESPIRAR 🧘♀️ DE FELICIDAD.
What year do you have @The Off Road Corner?
Are the upper and lower parts of the gasket the same?? They look like it but I just want to be sure
Buen trabajo y video para uno poder realizarlo.
Se agradece, saludos 🇨🇱
What was the time frame that this repair takes?
Thank you so much for talking slow, which reallh helps me on this. Some people go way too fast. Can I do this without a lift and why did the starter need to be removed? I have heard to use 5w 30 oil. Very confusing what to use. I dont know the shape of my oil pan. May get under it and look tonight. Great video. I assume you pull the piece of paper out when doing the upper main seal. My jeep is an 04 in line six. Probably nuts to spend money on an old jeep but it is fun to watch all these repair videos. I just had the radiator leak so I am going to try to chase the oil leak and do all four of what you mentioned. Should I do the water pump too it's not cheap for a lifetime warranty one. You advise would be appreciated.
you can do this without a lift. having the front suspension at full droop will help with getting the oil pan out. I wouldn't go any thinner than 10w30 on these engines. I use shell rotela t5 10w30 in the winter. the summer time I'll use a quart of the Lucas oil stabilizer with the rotela t5. I didn't like this Mopar filter I install in the video. it seemed to have pretty bad oil drain back which gave me lifter tap on cold starts. Yes I pulled the piece of paper out after install the upper rear main seal. if you don't know the history of the water pump I would replace it. they are somewhat known to fault at about 150K. thanks for watching
i use 5/20 in the winter and 5/30 in summer (live in Pa)
@@TheOffRoadCorner Thanks I did put t5 rotella in but freinds were worried its to thick for nebraska weather. It's been down to 1 degrees this last week. I have a suspension issue now maybe a wheel bearing or ball joint. Hard to work on when it's this cold.
I hear you there. It’s been -10 to 0 here. Makes working on everything tough
You don't need to remove the starter.
very nice video, really appreciate it.
Great video. Thank you good sir!
You my good sir have provided us with such a good quality video I would compare you to the lord himself ChrisFix.
Well done 👍🏼
Very helpful
Thank you!
So, I let the screw driver slip and damaged the bearing cap insert I guess? Its the C shaped piece that sits in the wide part. You think sanding it with some fine sandpaper will be ok? I can't get a replacement part and I need to put this back together asap
My 2 cents….. I think it should be ok. Not much you can do at this point. Fuk it. Hope it’s good.
I agree. I'd just make sure the bearing surface is smooth before reinstalling
I found the correct bearing and put it back in. All systems go. Oil pressure drops to 20 at operating temp now though.
Thanks for your video, 🤔 I didn’t get that paper piece with my FEL-Pro rear main seal for some reason. Thanks again.
Excellent video. Do you just leave that paper in there? That was confusing.
How many quarts of oil did it take to refill the car? Thanks!
Awesome video, how many hours did it take you to do this job.
About 5 hours with filming
Have u ever changed ur wheel studs?? 😬 if u ever do plz make a video I need to learn on for the front wheels. Thank you 🙏🏼
Yeah I need this vid to
Great video.
Did you leave those 4 blue inserts in the gasket or take them out before bolting the oil pan?
Yes. Those blue inserts come out once you have the oil pan in place and smaller pan bolts tight
Is this a job I could do in the parking lot on a Saturday?
what year is this cherokee? how you can tell the oil has zinc in it? what code sasys that
Great video, bud.
when did the white paper get pulled out? did it follow the seal to the other side or did you take it out after you got the seal going?
the white paper is just there to help protect and guide the seal when installed into the upper channel. think of it as a shoe horn. it shouldn't pass through the upper channel.
I had to buy another top seal because it ripped and bent, I guess I put the shoe horn on the outside whereas you placed it on the inside and you folded it but I don’t know exactly why
Did you remove anything from the the front end to make it easier to get the oil pan out and in?
I didn’t remove anything from the front end. I do have the suspension at full droop and My jeep has a 3.5” lift which definitely help.
The steering drag link is about the only thing that gets in the way a little but the pan will come out if you droop the front suspension out.
Note: I HAD to use the “shoehorn” piece of paper on the outer side of the seal for install. It went in super easy once I had the piece of paper in the right spot. It would not go in by hand otherwise.
This was a great video! What torque wrench were you using?
It’s inch pound torque wrench from matco tools. I’ve had it for a decade now hahaha
@@TheOffRoadCorner Nice! Looked it up and saw it was 500 bucks lol. Might be too much for me to spend for a super amateur car guy. I'll stick to the ACDelco digi wrench amazon offers. Keep up the videos man. Definitely liking the content.
Wow 500 is a lot! Here’s a link to what I’ve got
www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/TRA200K/1-4-drive-fixed-40-200-in-lbs-torque-wrench/
320 is still a lot lol! Tekton makes a pretty good one. Here’s a link
www.tekton.com/1-4-inch-drive-dual-direction-click-torque-wrench-trq21101
@@TheOffRoadCorner thank man! I'll check these out.
I did this exact replacement. No leak for about 50 miles and then leaking again :(
Could be the valve cover
Could be
Or the oil filter adapter.
You are the pro
Is it not a good idea to try and clean up inside of the engine when you have the girdle and the oil pan off like if you can see sludge on the Pistons or anywhere else
No.
I've seen a lot of people put rtv on the rear main cap when they reinstall it but you didn't mention it. Did you just not record it or do you not think it's needed? I need to do this on my Jeep, it has had a slow rms leak since I bought it 6 years ago.
I forgot rtv first time, had to tear it down again at next oil change.. put rtv also in rear and front of the oil pan.. seems to be sealed now.. Also, on a non lifted xj it's a pain to remove oil pan.. 🤪 loosened shocks and sway bar. Also, no need to remove starter..
@ jon hart I actually didn’t put any rtv between the engine block and the rear main cap. I was afraid if I put any RTV between them that it might change the bearing clearance on the crank journal.
@ Thomas hijertstrom. I’ve done that before. It’s not fun redoing it hahaha. Yeah probably didn’t need to take the starter off but I think it gave me more for cleaning the mating surface. I Imagine stock there no more at all up front.
You can use RTV on the older style rear main caps, but the later years caps like the one on this video, you would need to use LOCTITE 515. Regular RTV is too thick. Watch the link below.
ua-cam.com/video/_a7QpBvzreE/v-deo.html
@@xlightssx
So for a '98, rtv or loctite?
Can you tell me who makes that torque wrench and the cost ? Thanks😎
Here is a link to the one I’m using
And had it for years. It’s $500 its pretty expensive.
www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/TRA200K/1-4-drive-fixed-40-200-in-lbs-torque-wrench/
If you’re looking for a cheaper one but still good check Teton tools. Theyre good tools and a little bit more reasonable. Here’s a link
www.tekton.com/1-4-inch-drive-dual-direction-click-torque-wrench-trq21101
No affiliation with either company. I just like there tools
@@TheOffRoadCorner thanks for the information 👍😎
I cant get the girdle off. Its on really tight..... is this bad?
6:56 Here's where the cussing begins
Surprised it didn't start sooner, something about busted knuckles and laying on the ground just does has that effect
Thanks for sharing
Question! I got my 2001 jeep grand cherokee, with the 4.0. I wanna do my rear main seal as well, is the procedure the same from this video I just watched??
If it has the 4.0 inline six, then yes it'll be the same
There's a possibility the front suspension could get in the way. Not familiar with the grand Cherokee suspension from that era
Thanks for the reply, but I've already did the rear main seal. About a month ago and it was the same, I did a motor swap and I changed the gaskets on my new motor on a stand and the new motor is in and I've been driving it for a little bit now with no issues or leaks! Thanks for the video as well man!
@@joelafleur6423 not my video but glad to hear it went well for you!
What are the tq specs for the oil pan bolts???
Yes I like fellpro The blue alien egg mentioned pin help a lit
Any tips for the upper part of the rear main if you dont have the little guide to get it started?
And what size lift and tires do you have?
The upper guide is just a piece of poster board. You could try that or gently walk the lip of the seal into the cavity.
Lift is a 4” lift and my running 32”s
The bottom piece of the rear main seal on my '88 is much smaller.
I did everything you done but I am still leaking oil
Really good video. Just did the same thing on my jeep today
Seth, did you use rtv or lock tight between the main cap? If not like in the video do you have a leak?
Did you use diesel motor oil on it?
it might say diesel oil on the side of the jug but its a 10w30 weight which is more of a gas engine weight oil. the shell rotella t5 10w30 oil has a higher zinc content then most conventional oils nowadays
Disconnect the positive battery terminal better plan, otherwise Great Job you made it look easy !!
What do you mean by peen out the pan when installing a high flow oil pump?
Subscribed 👍🏻
Bro I have done this 2 times it keeps leaking idk what to do bro I have done everything correctly?🤷♂️
That’s strange. How’s your valve cover gasket?
Excessive blow by
nice!
Would this be the same for 97 4.0 grand cherokee ?
Pretty much. Except he didnt put rtv on like the fsm states to do.
No need to drop trans with the 4.0 ?
Not with the 242. It uses a 2-peice rear main seal.
Why is it diesel oil?
I have a 2001 cherokee, do you have to torque the oil pan bolts? I couldnt find the specs.
Torquing the oil pan bolts would be a good idea. Just because it’s better to have even clamping force on gaskets.
From the FSM: 7 lb/ft for the small pan bolts, and 11 lb/ft for the large pan bolts.
From center out with a good sequence
Does it matter that t5 says it's for diesel engines
I don’t think so. I’ve been running this oil for awhile without issue.
No
My girdle nuts were 14 mm
Needs to be quicker, but I learned regardless. Good vid.
bullshit i have a 96 xj the bolts where easy to get to but i cant get it out. front axle is in the way and no idea how to get it out. the oil pan just doesnt drop out that easy on a xj unlrss you have a lift.
This part of the process is frustrating I know. the oil pan doesn’t just drop out when you take the bolts out. You may to twist it a certain way clear everything ie steering, axle, dipstick tube and oil pickup tube. Try disconnecting your shock and trackbar. That will allow the front axle to droop further down. If your jeep is stock than our are the same droop wise. I have longer shocks but they don’t fully extend at full droop.
That's what I had to do I had to undo my shocks front. Undo the sway bar and took a scissor jack and had to shove my front axle downwards. Then I was able to get the pan off and on. If the oil pan was about an inch less. Meaning the piece that hangs down the front of the oil pan where all the oil sets. If that was about an inch shorter not tallness but width from front to back it could make it without any extra time.
10:40 oil setup
Yeah amazing how everyone of these videos skips right over getting the nuts off where the rear main seal is hmmmm
Impact was used
Now invest in some gloves haha jk
I don't understand this three torque process. Why not just torque it down to 80 straight away and be done with it??
Sequence is very important
Wrong way to install rear main using plastic guide tool
Great video.