With all of those connectors and binding posts in the signal path, you are only getting about 50 to 60% of the benefit of the upgrade. If you wire them point to point with no connectors, and use the tube connectors that come with the upgrade kit, it will improve clarity and detail levels across the board.
Ok I'm one speaker in.I was able to fit all in but had to remove some areas around the crossover cut-out section. So.... It's going bring your speakers efficiency down even more. My personal feeling is the filter on mid low panel is too much. I took out the mid low panel Inductor and I'm tinkering with that trying different ones but I don't have many,but what I can tell you the mid low panel playing full range is amazing sounding. Everyone one should try this and it's much louder.
@@ericelmore887 @ericelmore887 My opinion on this is that this modification is not the best choice for this speaker.A person would be much happier spending the money on a dedicated sub for these speakers. It does improve the weird phasing issues but absolutely tanks the output of the speaker. It does flatten the response, but also the sound. The best choice would be to do what maggie owners have been doing for years, and that's the use of an electronic crossover multi amp setup. Yes, that means spending a lot of money, unfortunately. The bass mid panel absolutely needs to be relieved of those low frequencies it can't produce.Theres an audible distortion that occurs when these speakers are pushed at moderately high volume because of this. I'm using a 425 watt into 4 ohm high current amp on these, so that is not the bottleneck.
@@j-rod6420 It does sound good but then you'll get cancellations between the mid and tweeter panel. Almost makes you think why they can't just release a speaker that is all mid-panel playing full range.
just found this. wow thanks. i got the values from somewhere on the threads and found them at parts express for 100 or so all in. good parts as far as i can tell so not worried. the tip re the staples was huge! would like to see the wires inside before i tackle this aand wondered if there was a way to avoid all those banana plugs in the path.
@veroman007 it depends on which bananas. Not necessary getting expensive ones. Not much speaker wire left after removing the crossover. Need to splice more wire. These are fine. amzn.to/4d4GYS3. You may just keep the ones that are already there.
Hi. Firstly, thanks so much for posting this. For my (larger) Maggie, I found cascaded Mundorfs to be the best sounding to my ear, even after "cap rolling" to compare different options. PLEASE POST YOUR OPINION ON THE DIFFERENCE IN SOUND NOW TO THE ORIGINAL, WITH ALL THE JUICY DETAILS 😊😊😊. That would being doing us all a massive, massive service. Thanks
The biggest difference was the lack of cancelation between the drivers. Originally the tweeters crossed way low and the mid's crossed over way high. So they interfered with each other. Still sounded good but the highs would go in and out as you moved forward or backwards. Shouldn't happen. After the upgrade everything just blends seamlessly. Way more mid-bass punch. The cymbals in the high frequencies now sparkle. Very clean. The vocals are now completely natural because they're not being played by the tweeter and mid-panel at the same time. They each just produce their own frequency area. These speakers sound amazing now. With the Wiim Ultra going in to the Geshelli J2 DAC with the AKM and Sparkos upgrades it really sounds like one of those systems you hear at an audio show in a high-end room.
When you bridge the amp sees a load that is twice the load of what the speakers says it is.The Aegirs were seeing a 2 ohm load. That would be enough to shut those down, or at least not play correctly. I’m familiar with those Aegirs. Despite of the Aegirs good reviews, I wasn’t very impressed, but your new amp, however, looks like a winner. What’s Hifi, gave it stellar ratings in all categories.
I have a question. On the schematic, it shows the smaller inductor connecting to both the positive and negative wires on the tweeter circuit. What’s up with that?
According to Danny's video explaining the crossover upgrade on the LRS Pluses, it has something to do with correcting a phase shift and setting the proper crossover roll off frequency. I'd watch the video to be sure.
@@thepracticalaudiophile but you don’t have that little inductor hooked up to the other wire. In the schematic that inductor is drawn connecting the positive positive and negative wires leading into the speaker.
@CashGravel instead of splitting the wire and have one lead, go to the positive and the other to the small inductor then to ground. I just went from the internal lead to the ground. Electrically, it's the same thing. Half the current still doesn't go to the tweeter but directly to the small inductor then ground.
Unless you are a master solderer and cut the leads off the caps and resistor to very small it's impossible. If you're going to use an external crossover and keep the internal wiring from the factory I recommend you don't remove the staples off the bottom but cut a horizontal opening from the speaker post plate to the outside direction of the speakers about 3 inches. Won't see it from the front anyway. The speakers will be a lot brighter after the upgrade. I'm going to make another video more detailed about what I did. This is the box I used amzn.to/3QPCZ36
Olay this is embarrassing but when I plugged the midpanel into the speaker they were out of phase. I put them back in phase and the speakers no longer sound bright. The midpanels were canceling each other, which led to the brightness in the highs. Sorry about that.
@@thepracticalaudiophile it is good to know your experience. I have the upgrade kit already but just want to wait a bit before moving forward. I changed the binding post today and noticed the one speaker’s tweeter wire was not even soldered lol.
@dc2geeks I tried to keep the inductors as much at a right angle and as far apart as possible. That way, cross-talk between the two is as minimal as possible.
@dc2geeks I didn't secure the caps and the inductors I secured with guerilla gel. Pinned them in place overnight. As far as direct solder or crimping the connections, I heard no difference at all. Between using quick connects or soldering to the binding posts, I heard no difference. The crossover, though, is amazing. Too bad Magnepan doesn't deliver speakers completely without crossovers or gr-research crossovers installed.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for clearing that up. I’ve never put together a crossover like that one now I have my confidence back!
With all of those connectors and binding posts in the signal path, you are only getting about 50 to 60% of the benefit of the upgrade. If you wire them point to point with no connectors, and use the tube connectors that come with the upgrade kit, it will improve clarity and detail levels across the board.
really???? show me your work.. the design alone w parts is more imp than those sub optimal connex imo
@@veroman007 What do you want me to show you? I designed your upgrade. Yes really, all of those connectors are eating up your resolution.
Look forward to your update on sound difference from stock crossover
Ok I'm one speaker in.I was able to fit all in but had to remove some areas around the crossover cut-out section.
So.... It's going bring your speakers efficiency down even more.
My personal feeling is the filter on mid low panel is too much.
I took out the mid low panel Inductor and I'm tinkering with that trying different ones but I don't have many,but what I can tell you the mid low panel playing full range is amazing sounding.
Everyone one should try this and it's much louder.
@@j-rod6420 thanks you for the update. I look forward to your findings and your results along the way!!
@@j-rod6420did you buy the wiring schematic only with out parts from GR- Research?
@@ericelmore887 @ericelmore887 My opinion on this is that this modification is not the best choice for this speaker.A person would be much happier spending the money on a dedicated sub for these speakers.
It does improve the weird phasing issues but absolutely tanks the output of the speaker. It does flatten the response, but also the sound.
The best choice would be to do what maggie owners have been doing for years, and that's the use of an electronic crossover multi amp setup.
Yes, that means spending a lot of money, unfortunately.
The bass mid panel absolutely needs to be relieved of those low frequencies it can't produce.Theres an audible distortion that occurs when these speakers are pushed at moderately high volume because of this.
I'm using a 425 watt into 4 ohm high current amp on these, so that is not the bottleneck.
@@j-rod6420 It does sound good but then you'll get cancellations between the mid and tweeter panel. Almost makes you think why they can't just release a speaker that is all mid-panel playing full range.
Wow thanks for the video as there is some trick to it
just found this. wow thanks. i got the values from somewhere on the threads and found them at parts express for 100 or so all in. good parts as far as i can tell so not worried. the tip re the staples was huge! would like to see the wires inside before i tackle this aand wondered if there was a way to avoid all those banana plugs in the path.
@veroman007 you could solder the speaker wire directly to the crossover but the minute improvement in sound is definitely not worth it.
@@thepracticalaudiophile how much original spkr wire is available? was thinking about the cost of all those bananas. Thanks again!
@veroman007 it depends on which bananas. Not necessary getting expensive ones. Not much speaker wire left after removing the crossover. Need to splice more wire. These are fine. amzn.to/4d4GYS3. You may just keep the ones that are already there.
Hi. Firstly, thanks so much for posting this. For my (larger) Maggie, I found cascaded Mundorfs to be the best sounding to my ear, even after "cap rolling" to compare different options. PLEASE POST YOUR OPINION ON THE DIFFERENCE IN SOUND NOW TO THE ORIGINAL, WITH ALL THE JUICY DETAILS 😊😊😊. That would being doing us all a massive, massive service. Thanks
@robertdavis1976 when I have time I'll make a detailed review
The biggest difference was the lack of cancelation between the drivers. Originally the tweeters crossed way low and the mid's crossed over way high. So they interfered with each other. Still sounded good but the highs would go in and out as you moved forward or backwards. Shouldn't happen. After the upgrade everything just blends seamlessly. Way more mid-bass punch. The cymbals in the high frequencies now sparkle. Very clean. The vocals are now completely natural because they're not being played by the tweeter and mid-panel at the same time. They each just produce their own frequency area. These speakers sound amazing now. With the Wiim Ultra going in to the Geshelli J2 DAC with the AKM and Sparkos upgrades it really sounds like one of those systems you hear at an audio show in a high-end room.
Thanks!!!!!!!! And I, for one, believe you!
Nice video! May I ask you what your 450 W amp is?
@@d.s.cullom5461 they were 20watt aegir bridged now I have my old herron audio m150 150 watt monoblocks. Drives the low impedance maggies much better.
When you bridge the amp sees a load that is twice the load of what the speakers says it is.The Aegirs were seeing a 2 ohm load. That would be enough to shut those down, or at least not play correctly. I’m familiar with those Aegirs. Despite of the Aegirs good reviews, I wasn’t very impressed, but your new amp, however, looks like a winner. What’s Hifi, gave it stellar ratings in all categories.
I have a question. On the schematic, it shows the smaller inductor connecting to both the positive and negative wires on the tweeter circuit. What’s up with that?
According to Danny's video explaining the crossover upgrade on the LRS Pluses, it has something to do with correcting a phase shift and setting the proper crossover roll off frequency. I'd watch the video to be sure.
@@thepracticalaudiophile but you don’t have that little inductor hooked up to the other wire. In the schematic that inductor is drawn connecting the positive positive and negative wires leading into the speaker.
@CashGravel instead of splitting the wire and have one lead, go to the positive and the other to the small inductor then to ground. I just went from the internal lead to the ground. Electrically, it's the same thing. Half the current still doesn't go to the tweeter but directly to the small inductor then ground.
One quick question, the new parts can’t fit inside? Thanks 🙏
Unless you are a master solderer and cut the leads off the caps and resistor to very small it's impossible. If you're going to use an external crossover and keep the internal wiring from the factory I recommend you don't remove the staples off the bottom but cut a horizontal opening from the speaker post plate to the outside direction of the speakers about 3 inches. Won't see it from the front anyway. The speakers will be a lot brighter after the upgrade. I'm going to make another video more detailed about what I did. This is the box I used amzn.to/3QPCZ36
@@thepracticalaudiophile thanks for the info. The a lot brighter part concerns me.
@@kenwk2283 More detailed and brighter. Will benefit from a warm tube preamp.
Olay this is embarrassing but when I plugged the midpanel into the speaker they were out of phase. I put them back in phase and the speakers no longer sound bright. The midpanels were canceling each other, which led to the brightness in the highs. Sorry about that.
@@thepracticalaudiophile it is good to know your experience. I have the upgrade kit already but just want to wait a bit before moving forward. I changed the binding post today and noticed the one speaker’s tweeter wire was not even soldered lol.
Hi, could you share a picture of the crossover. Thanks
@@dc2geeks it'll be posted here: images.agaveplugins.com/uncategorized/magnepan-lrs-plus-crossover-upgrade/
@dc2geeks I tried to keep the inductors as much at a right angle and as far apart as possible. That way, cross-talk between the two is as minimal as possible.
Nice pic thanks. I don’t see any wire tie is used how do you secure the cap and inductors?
@dc2geeks I didn't secure the caps and the inductors I secured with guerilla gel. Pinned them in place overnight. As far as direct solder or crimping the connections, I heard no difference at all. Between using quick connects or soldering to the binding posts, I heard no difference. The crossover, though, is amazing. Too bad Magnepan doesn't deliver speakers completely without crossovers or gr-research crossovers installed.