I have an early Mk1 master, with the cast legs and plinth. Been well used, but still works reasonably well, handy for small jobs in the garage such as making up pullers for bushes ect. Paid the princely sum of £300 for it about 10 years ago, with a meddings pillar drill, a smaller pillar drill, a bench grinder, and a band saw for bar stock in the price!
Thank you for this video, along with all of your others. It is a wonderful thing for profession & trade knowledge & expertise to be shared, instead of sold. I certainly appreciate you taking the time to show us all your tool post set up and lathe which will help me with mine. For vintage Colchester owners, any advice/videos/tips are very much appreciated indeed. My old girl is now running reasonable well thanks to a headstock gear kindly supplied by Colchester Spares UK and a bit of DIY Silicone Bronze Tig repair to internal gear teeth - for which part replacement was extremely cost prohibitive. You have also given me a great insight into the Dixon quick change set up which I haven't been able to find as yet. Hoping you continue to post videos and wish you well. Cheers, David
@@BIGDOGFORGE That sounds about right. I've what they call a Mk 1.5 and you have a mk1. The 1.5 has a top speed of 1200 with a single speed motor or 1500 with the 2 speed motor. If you're not aware, there is a Colcheter Lathes 'social' group at colchesterlathe.groups.io/g/main and there are some mk1 owners there already. The changeover between mk1 and mk 1.5 is about 1960 but it does appear both were being made at the same time as some mk 1.5 are older than some mk1 models !
Hello sir. I have this vintage lathe from my now gone grandfather. I would like to do some preventive maintenance and the first thing I saw was the oil level. At the sight, it should be on level on rest or running? (It raises when running) Also is there any other preventive maintenance procedures I should be aware? Thank you and best regards from Portugal
@@jorgecosta95 I don’t know for sure, but a drain and refill will pull out any particles settling in the sump. Filter through some fine material maybe? Other thing to watch is moisture accumulation in the oil. Change oil if in doubt. I suspect these machines have ample sump capacity for heat transfer.
Some lathes have removable "change gears" between the spindle and feed/threading gearbox. these may be incorrect, or the lathe might have a metric/imperial lever (the colchester does). Its hard to say without seeing the setup. Good luck.
Love your videos. I have a Triumph roundhead - very similar. How is your QCTP mounted to the topslide? I tried to fit one to mine instead of the 4 way but there is a huge central boss far too big to fit. And it is one piece. Incredibly rigid. People have suggested cutting it off but that is sacrilege - perhaps I need to make a new topslide. Also have you done a video showing how your DRO is mounted?
I have the same problem. This Old Tony has the same post on his topslide. He has left it and the large tool post he has went over the central 1.75" post. Finding one that is amenable to a 1.75" central post is chalenging though. I'm still using my turrent that fits on this post for now.
@@codprawn At minute 2 of his "QCTP Tool Holders for the Lathe" video (ua-cam.com/video/ZNWkhxKNHGM/v-deo.html) you can see his old turret had the 1 3/4" central post. Someone asked in that video's comments, and I seconded asking what he did, and he was nice enough to reply, but he didn't remember, but he thought a T2 Dickson should drop in. You can see him spin his tool post and it looks like it's still on the integral post and turning that down would be the kind of job you remember! If you look on UK Lathes (www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page13.html) you can see the T2/S2 posts do have sufficient clearance (The "C" dimension). But then you are committing to tool post holders that are find outside the Commonwealth, and you might end up making holders like This Old Tony did. I though I solved the issue as I found a compound with a T slot that would fit our lathes at a good price, but the thing came out of it's box during shipping due to poor packing. Sigh. I've been on the horns of the same dilemma since. I think a new compound or T2/S2 Dickson set is your best bet, if you don't have any BXA holders to start with. Or, find a way to turn down the integral post to fit an Aloris set (boring out a cheap knock off toolpost looks to me like it will ruin the mechanism). Or you can mill off the integral post entirely and mill in a T-slot, which does seem a shame.
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One of the finest value for money machine tools ever.
I have an early Mk1 master, with the cast legs and plinth. Been well used, but still works reasonably well, handy for small jobs in the garage such as making up pullers for bushes ect. Paid the princely sum of £300 for it about 10 years ago, with a meddings pillar drill, a smaller pillar drill, a bench grinder, and a band saw for bar stock in the price!
Thank you for this video, along with all of your others. It is a wonderful thing for profession & trade knowledge & expertise to be shared, instead of sold. I certainly appreciate you taking the time to show us all your tool post set up and lathe which will help me with mine. For vintage Colchester owners, any advice/videos/tips are very much appreciated indeed. My old girl is now running reasonable well thanks to a headstock gear kindly supplied by Colchester Spares UK and a bit of DIY Silicone Bronze Tig repair to internal gear teeth - for which part replacement was extremely cost prohibitive. You have also given me a great insight into the Dixon quick change set up which I haven't been able to find as yet. Hoping you continue to post videos and wish you well. Cheers, David
Yep. Sounds exactly like my Student. It's nice to know it's not just me.
Haha, yeah - I think they all have the same noisy headstock, and their little foibles!
I have a 15” Colchester, 2000 rpm square head. It’s a great machine.
Colchester made good lathes back in the day.
They still do.
They still do
very good.
Thank you! Cheers!
May I ask what is the year of your lathe?.
I believe its a 1958 model, not 100 per cent sure though
@@framavia2201
thank you so much I have one that is exactly the same model and can't seem to find a date for it
.
@@BIGDOGFORGE That sounds about right. I've what they call a Mk 1.5 and you have a mk1. The 1.5 has a top speed of 1200 with a single speed motor or 1500 with the 2 speed motor.
If you're not aware, there is a Colcheter Lathes 'social' group at colchesterlathe.groups.io/g/main and there are some mk1 owners there already. The changeover between mk1 and mk 1.5 is about 1960 but it does appear both were being made at the same time as some mk 1.5 are older than some mk1 models !
Hello sir.
I have this vintage lathe from my now gone grandfather. I would like to do some preventive maintenance and the first thing I saw was the oil level.
At the sight, it should be on level on rest or running? (It raises when running)
Also is there any other preventive maintenance procedures I should be aware?
Thank you and best regards from Portugal
Oil level should be half way up the sight glasses at rest, keep the ways clean and oiled, best maintenance is regular use!
@@framavia2201 thank you, Fram!
I was hoping there was some kind of oil filters or such?
@@jorgecosta95 I don’t know for sure, but a drain and refill will pull out any particles settling in the sump. Filter through some fine material maybe? Other thing to watch is moisture accumulation in the oil. Change oil if in doubt. I suspect these machines have ample sump capacity for heat transfer.
Sir, I have a problem in lathe machine. When I cut the thread 11tpi . But he gave me 11-12
Some lathes have removable "change gears" between the spindle and feed/threading gearbox. these may be incorrect, or the lathe might have a metric/imperial lever (the colchester does). Its hard to say without seeing the setup. Good luck.
Love your videos. I have a Triumph roundhead - very similar.
How is your QCTP mounted to the topslide? I tried to fit one to mine instead of the 4 way but there is a huge central boss far too big to fit. And it is one piece. Incredibly rigid. People have suggested cutting it off but that is sacrilege - perhaps I need to make a new topslide.
Also have you done a video showing how your DRO is mounted?
I have the same problem. This Old Tony has the same post on his topslide. He has left it and the large tool post he has went over the central 1.75" post. Finding one that is amenable to a 1.75" central post is chalenging though. I'm still using my turrent that fits on this post for now.
@@jaredhubbell7013
I dont suppose you have a link to his video on that? I tried searching but couldn't find it.
thanks
@@codprawn At minute 2 of his "QCTP Tool Holders for the Lathe" video (ua-cam.com/video/ZNWkhxKNHGM/v-deo.html) you can see his old turret had the 1 3/4" central post. Someone asked in that video's comments, and I seconded asking what he did, and he was nice enough to reply, but he didn't remember, but he thought a T2 Dickson should drop in. You can see him spin his tool post and it looks like it's still on the integral post and turning that down would be the kind of job you remember! If you look on UK Lathes (www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page13.html) you can see the T2/S2 posts do have sufficient clearance (The "C" dimension). But then you are committing to tool post holders that are find outside the Commonwealth, and you might end up making holders like This Old Tony did. I though I solved the issue as I found a compound with a T slot that would fit our lathes at a good price, but the thing came out of it's box during shipping due to poor packing. Sigh. I've been on the horns of the same dilemma since. I think a new compound or T2/S2 Dickson set is your best bet, if you don't have any BXA holders to start with. Or, find a way to turn down the integral post to fit an Aloris set (boring out a cheap knock off toolpost looks to me like it will ruin the mechanism). Or you can mill off the integral post entirely and mill in a T-slot, which does seem a shame.
I have done a few videos about the DRO - I'll quickly pull the tool post off and see how its been mounted.