I was wondering the same thing as Mike Champlin. While at HomeDepot, I got to thinking how the suction would work. Like Mike, I figured I would have to tape off the bucket head intake port and then it should work. I will find out in a little while when I build mine.
Well I built it and even though I didn't get a chance to use it yesterday as I thought, I think it will work fine. Points of interest in the build to take note of: - All buckets are not created equal. I used HomeDepot buckets. Measuring 9 inches from the top, as mentioned in this video, did not allow enough room for the filter frame of the Buckhead to fit when placing it onto the bottom bucket that will capture the bees. (one bucket wasted in that lesson) I ended up cutting about 2 inches from the bottom instead. It was still close to Buckethead bottoming out when connected. Also there is a good bit of play when connecting the 5 gallon buckets together due to their flexibility ( a good thing in my opinion) I placed painters tape to guide my cut on the bucket. I first drilled a hole on the part of the bucket to be trashed then I used a jig saw to cut the bucket. It worked great. - I drilled forty eight, 3/64th size holes in the botton of the capture bucket. That seemed to create a good suction for not destroying bees during their ride through the hose. I can always drill more holes or tape up holes as I might see a need. -I removed the plastic piece inside the Buckethead filter cage. I saw this on another Utube video which said this piece, that looks like a spray can cap, is designed to stop the suction if the Buckethead falls to the side. This way the vacuum will continue should it tilt over too far. There are pinch points where the cage connects to the motor frame, but it will come off once you figure out the pinch points and put some muscle into it. I replaced the cage once I got the internal piece out and I placed the paper filter back on. - No, to answering the question of do you have to cover the intake port of the Buckehead for it to work. Although, I didn't test it, it makes sense that if you did cover it , it would probably increase the suction. - I did plan to tape a piece of towel or something soft on the opposite side of where the bees will enter the bottom bucket, just to minimize any chance of injury should the suction be stronger than what I think, for a bee entering the bucket. Personally, I think this is the best design I have seen for a do it yourself bee vaccuum. I hope this gives some pointers to others taking on this project.
Okay this is all very impressive, but it's not a review of the Buckethead Vacuum. Unless you think everyone who needs a very low duty shop vac wants to spend time and $ to build a new bucket. This should be titled DIY bucketed project.
Thanks for showing the suction on your shirt. And thanks for sharing your build.
I was wondering the same thing as Mike Champlin. While at HomeDepot, I got to thinking how the suction would work. Like Mike, I figured I would have to tape off the bucket head intake port and then it should work. I will find out in a little while when I build mine.
Well I built it and even though I didn't get a chance to use it yesterday as I thought, I think it will work fine. Points of interest in the build to take note of:
- All buckets are not created equal. I used HomeDepot buckets. Measuring 9 inches from the top, as mentioned in this video, did not allow enough room for the filter frame of the Buckhead to fit when placing it onto the bottom bucket that will capture the bees. (one bucket wasted in that lesson) I ended up cutting about 2 inches from the bottom instead. It was still close to Buckethead bottoming out when connected. Also there is a good bit of play when connecting the 5 gallon buckets together due to their flexibility ( a good thing in my opinion)
I placed painters tape to guide my cut on the bucket. I first drilled a hole on the part of the bucket to be trashed then I used a jig saw to cut the bucket. It worked great.
- I drilled forty eight, 3/64th size holes in the botton of the capture bucket. That seemed to create a good suction for not destroying bees during their ride through the hose. I can always drill more holes or tape up holes as I might see a need.
-I removed the plastic piece inside the Buckethead filter cage. I saw this on another Utube video which said this piece, that looks like a spray can cap, is designed to stop the suction if the Buckethead falls to the side. This way the vacuum will continue should it tilt over too far. There are pinch points where the cage connects to the motor frame, but it will come off once you figure out the pinch points and put some muscle into it. I replaced the cage once I got the internal piece out and I placed the paper filter back on.
- No, to answering the question of do you have to cover the intake port of the Buckehead for it to work. Although, I didn't test it, it makes sense that if you did cover it , it would probably increase the suction.
- I did plan to tape a piece of towel or something soft on the opposite side of where the bees will enter the bottom bucket, just to minimize any chance of injury should the suction be stronger than what I think, for a bee entering the bucket.
Personally, I think this is the best design I have seen for a do it yourself bee vaccuum.
I hope this gives some pointers to others taking on this project.
Do you block off the normal vacuum inlet port to increase / control suction through the bucket hose?
What size compression fitting ?
Okay this is all very impressive, but it's not a review of the Buckethead Vacuum. Unless you think everyone who needs a very low duty shop vac wants to spend time and $ to build a new bucket. This should be titled DIY bucketed project.