How to Remove Rusted or Seized Truck Bed Bolts
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- Опубліковано 22 жов 2024
- How to loosen and remove rusty bed bolts. For this truck, I need to lift the box off in order to replace the cap corner, however you maybe simply removing the box, or you can also tilt the box on the one side for accessing a fuel pump instead of dropping a fuel tank or cutting a hole in the bottom of your box. Here I’m working with a 1998 Ford Ranger short box which has a total of 6 bed bolts. #fordranger #autorepair #rust
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-penetrating oil
-wire brush
-ratchet
-johnson bar
-torx drivers
-brush
Procedure:
-if you have a box liner like this truck, you’ll need to remove that first
-remove any fasteners if it has any, open the tail gate, and then lift it up from the center to retract the sides
-when there is enough movement for the sides, retract the sides
-you’ll most like need a helping hand to remove the box liner
-now knowing exactly where those bed bolts are, you can use the locations to determine where exactly they fasten to on the frame
-unfortunately you can always have direct access to these bed bolts underneath
-you should see bolts coming though the frame which fastens to a clip
-I’ve seen these clips have a few different names, either a bolt clip, j clip, c clip, u nut, speed clip, or body clip
-using a wire brush, clean up the exposed threads
-these threads will be going back through the threaded portion of the clip, so if they start to bind, you can either break the clip or bolt
-a hand brush works fine, but a power tool can also be used too
-once satisfied, apply a penetrating oil
-moving onto the other exposed bolt, this truck as been oil sprayed at some point in it’s life so some of the metal is protected
-unfortunately in other areas it’s worn off due to being driven down gravel roads
-cleaning off the dirt, we can see the threads are almost like new. Penetrating oil will also be applied just to be safe
-next is the other bolt closer to the cab
-unfortunately I’m unable to get access to all the bolts as two are hidden behind the bumper frame work and the other behind the fuel tank
-if you are working close to the fuel tank, be mindful about sparks
-using a hand brush is best
-while this truck did have a box liner, the bolts are filled with some debris
-use a brush, pick, nail, or even wire brush to clean out the heads of the fasteners
-if they’re not clean, we may not have good contact with the torx bit, risking the chance of stripping the head
-if that happens, you’ll either need to cut, grind, or drill the bolt
-blow out the debris and even insert the bit with may help loosen debris too
-this truck uses T55 bits, you can use an impact, however not everyone has access to one and I don’t have impact torx bits, so I’m using regular hand tools
-a hand impact driver can be used, I’ve shown this tool in previous videos
-this I will be tackling with a johnson bar
-the johnson bar allows for more leverage, you not use an extension as this can twist your pivot point and risk stripping the head of the fastener
-I do have a short adapter here, 1/2” to 3/8” so I’m able to use my 3/8” drive torx bit
-once the bolts have been broken free, work them back and forth, loosening and tightening them
-this will reduce binding of the threads and allow for the rust or dirt to break up and drop out
-you may need to go underneath and apply more penetrating oil if needed
-I managed to get all these bolts broken free and up about a 1/4”
-I will be leaving this over night, each bolt has penetrating oil applied from the top under the washer which should help soak into the threads of the clips
-the next day I then tightened up those bolts a couple threads to help that oil work into the clips
-then took my time and to loosen them, using the same process as previously if they’re binding and finally they are removed with no broken bolts, clips, or damaged threads
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© 4DIYers 2013
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You're one of the only people that I actually seen do and explain something properly thanks
Thank you for the feedback :)
This was the best easiest video to watch! Thank you so much!
You're so welcome!
Timely video, I'm going to check out a 97 Ranger this weekend. It'll likely need cab corners.
Thanks for the video and have a great weekend.
Thank you! Still sorting out my videos for the cab corner replacement. Not sure if you've seen it on Instagram, but it's all done and back together.
I watched 4 videos to get to this one. Thank you!
Illinois rust got the best of my bolts, I have replace a few of them so purchased all new hardware.
Thanks for the video im planning on redoing my 1986 ford ranger as my gpa had an 85 and he has passed. So i plan to take it down to frame and do it all myself with minimal help in memory of him❤
Sorry to hear about your grandpa and good luck on your project. It’ll be worth all the hard work. I always liked the 86 style, the oldest version I had was an 89.
@@4DIYers 83-92 then they get gross lol
Agreed, they lost their quality as they got newer.
Thanks for the great video! My bolt broke before it really moved any. I can't grab it from above and tried heating/cooling from below then double-nut trying to move either direction without success. Tried drilling it out with titanium bit but couldn't get it perfect centered from above. Any advice?
Thank you! The best route would be continuing to remove the other bolts, then once the bed is up, cut out the clip it bolts into and just replace it.
Thanks for a great video. Can I just loosen my torque bolts to center my bed box with the cab of my ranger?
Thank you and yes you can.
I have an 08 F350. It has about 8 bolts. The first time around I tried this route. Tried oil, shocking, impact drivers, even heating them up. In the end I just bit the bullet and just cut the heads off with a grinder. Took about 10 minutes to cut the bolts then another 3 to cut the nuts off the frame. I am convinced the nuts are lock nuts, meaning they seize in place to prevent backing out. New bolts and nuts are $30 - $80 total depending on vendor. Just another thought if you're really fighting it. One broken tool can cost more than just replacing the bolts.
UGH!!! I think I’m about to have to go that route. Mine are rusted beyond repair.
Jim McAlister with a grinder and a cut off wheel it took me all of 5 mins to cut them all off. Once the bed is off the nuts just pull off the frame. You’re going to want new bolts anyway.
I broke one already so it`s on hold until the new bolts arrive.
gun fisher theres two kits. 1 does a short bed and one has a couple more bolts for an 8’ and includes the bolts and nuts.
@@murph914 I purchased one that was specific for my make and model but the one thing I don`t like is that to save $40 you need to buy from a vendor that makes them with hex head bolts. Now when they arrive tuesday I`ll have to run out and buy the right size hex in 1/2" drive in witch they are not common any more and I`ll end up waiting on delivery of that also. Napa will probably be the best bet to get them quick I hope.
I'll be removing the bed on my B4000 to replace the fuel pump. I don't expect too much trouble, but you never know. I live in South Louisiana and we don't usually see that much rust under our vehicles due to the fact we don't ever have a need to salt our roads.
All I can say is that I'm jealous lol. Every year the government seems to add more salt to the roads here and vehicles are only getting worse.
Gave up trying to get the bed bolts out on my 2010 f150, had to cut them out, had to replace the rusted out underside bed rails, made the rails myself.
Thanks for the useful info. I’m in the market for an 11th gen f150 so I’m sure I’ll be doing some work under the bed. I never thought to allow days for penetrating oil to work but it works evidently. With the state of the bolts would you reuse them?
No problem! If the bolts are in reasonable condition, reusing them is fine. When the threads get extensively deteriorated or if the clips are in poor condition, then I would certainly recommend replacing them.
Good video showing real world conditions lucky non broke unlike the guys pulling bolts off and suprise they look like they were just installed
Thank you!
On 2 of mine the torx heads had rusted themselves round. I had to cut the bolt heads off with an angle grinder. I'm hoping I can get the other ends out, because I don't want to drive around with two missing bed bolts.
Great video!
Thanks!
Wished it was this easy, first bolt, busted the torx!
Make sure you have good quality tools. An impact rated torx might be a better route too.
Is it.possible to heat the Torx bolt?
What if the bolts are stripped.
He said “cut, grind, or drill the bolt.”
Very helpful. thank you :)
No problem, happy to help!
Thank you so much for the helpful video. I was wondering if you could tell us how to find replacement screws and bolts. Thank you!
Did you find them? I also need some.
I can't seem to find what you call a "Johnson bar" on the internet to match the tool you used -- is it the same as a breaker bar?
yes idk who told him a breaker bar was called a "johnson" bar but thats a breaker bar he was using
Ya not possible here will be grinding them off I guess. My DeWalt 1/2 impact would not budge 5 of my 6
I had to cut my bolts off with a portable band saw, grinder and sawzal did little.
After the head came off did the bolt fall out easily
You didn't show exactly what can be removed from the truck now. Is it the entire bed?
I didn't need to remove the entire bed, however this is what's needed to remove it along with disconnecting the taillights.
That's TORX !! SCREWS !! What about standard woodscrews ! HEADS ! Broken off !! ?? GRIND !? DRILL !! ?? AND TAP !? NEW ! THREAD !?
Yeah so um ive broken 3 torque bits 😂 they will not budge does anyone have any ideas?
Get good quality torx bits, possibly impact versions. I've had them before where they broke or twisted. The other option is using heat like a small propane torch.
I'm sold patients as and plenty of oil
Gd vid
Thank you!
you nut sir ?
1st
we in Finland say '' eka ''