Save $100s by Building Your Own Router Lift!
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Get the step-by-step plans to build our Shop-Built Router Lift here: www.woodsmithp...
A router lift makes working at the router table so much easier. Bit height adjustments and even bit changes can all be handled from above the surface. The thing is most commercial lifts cost way more than the router it holds, but with our plans, you can build your own router table lift for about $50. Simple hardware combined with some plywood and maple creates a robust, easy-to-use router lift. Watch John and Logan complete lift and add it to a router table.
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Geweldig om te zien heel Kundig gemaakt 👍👏
I'm used to larger, corded routers ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.
I couldn't find a reasonably priced lift that would work with my table saws router wing extension. I found this video and just finished building this lift and it works great! I made two small changes though. One for performance and one for convenience. For convenience, instead of filing the threaded rod into a hex head, I simply drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 hole in center of the threaded rod end that's at table top and then, counter sunk a 1/4-20 hex head cap screw (bonded with red lock-tite) flush with the threaded rod. This allows me to use a simple 3/16 hex wrench to make adjustments, instead of having to keep a socket and ratchet handy. For performance, I didn't like the idea of the drive screw being supported only by the fixed base and only the nut in the moving router clamp so, I got a second 3/4" I.D., 7/8" O.D. bronze bushing, drilled out my Insert plate for a press-in fit of that bushing to support the top of the threaded rod. Now, the rod's rock solid and turns true with no wobble.
Get the step-by-step plans to make this Shop-Built Router Lift here: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/router-jig-router-lift/?apid=36564
I loved when he flipped epoxy syringes and dipped it. :D
Caught that one too 🤣
I know this an old video; but the gentleman using the table saw wants to keep all of his figures, he better learn to is push sticks. Just my 2 cents worth.
4 years later and by the grace of God I still have all of my digits, but you're right - a good ol' push block sure goes a long way to keep those fingers safe. In fact, 3 years ago I made this Push Block video: ua-cam.com/video/T94AiPigt8w/v-deo.html
Good to hear.
Yep, wouldn't wanna lose any of your figures. Accountants can be expensive.
And so why are router lifts expensive?
standard tap will thred hard wood
You can also "Harden" the threads with a little CA glue.
I started making something similar and found this while looking for ideas on the rails. Fantastic job guys.
I'm also an avid 3D printer and electronics guy. I plan to add a stepper motor to the bottom of the rod and old control board from a decommissioned 3d printer. That way I can use push buttons to automatically raise and lower the router.
I have a quick question. Once I set my router height, will the router hold it's position or could it move up and down? I feel like the vibration of my router could cause the the screw to turn some. Or am I overthinking this?
We’ve made a handful of these over the last several years, and we haven’t had any problems with vibrations causing the router to move.
I made that a few years ago from shop notes magazine. It works very well.👍👍😁
This is a great example of how a Woodsmith subscription can pay for itself instantly! Good job men!
I watched this without a subscription, on UA-cam.
I think Don is referring to the fact that the woodworking plans, tips and techniques you can get from the paid subscription of Woodsmith Magazine are well worth it. :)
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine That's exactly what I meant and I like your plans. The proportions are always just right. That way when the project is complete I don't regret making it taller or wider etc. Plans avoid the second guessing.
My years of shopnotes paid for themselves. And the friend who gave me 20 yrs of woodsmith mags was awesome ..
Why not drill and tap the end for a 7/16- or 1/2-inch set screw. Add some red thread locker screw in the set screw and use an Allen T handle to run it up and down? Worried about the thread locker not holding? Use a center punch on the set screw hole threads after inserting the set screw to "Jimmy the threads".
I've been a fan of the show for a long time. Seeing that first episode of Woodsmith shop and seeing how you guys break things down step by step really got me thinking that I could do these projects. Ever since I've been building all kinds of stuff and enjoying each and every build. So thanks for all you guy do and I look forward to what you guys come up with next!
That's awesome! Thanks for watching! :)
You can thank Steve Ramsey for popularizing this router lift project on one of his You Tube videos! That is where a lot of you tubers saw it first.
Terry - Absolutely! I think his build video of this lift is well over a million views now. 👍👍
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine - Yep, Just checked it is at 2.3 million! :o
His was the first i had seen built, for sure after i had seen in magazine
I don't watch Steve Ramsey
Atticus Draco I believe you should watch Steve Ramsey/ Woodworking for Mere Mortals. It is well edited and informative for all levels of woodworking. He is also doing online courses which have been received very well.
Threaded inserts for the set screws and glue a piece of flat steel bar from the hardware store to the back of the runners/guide bars, just dado a shallow groove. Pretty slick build, think I'll make one too.
So what is the drawback if any using the 3/4 - 10 versus the 3/4 - 16 threaded rod?
The main purpose for using 3/4-16 is that then you know each turn accounts for 1/16" change in bit height.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine thank you for the quick reply. Looking forward to completing the build. I forgot to mention i drew the parts in CAD and will be cutting them with a CNC router in the near future.
Nice job on the project. I’ve been receiving, reading and using Woodsmith and shop notes for years. It’s provided me with great ideas that I’ve used to build projects. Thanks
Love the video but fingers that close to a tablesaw is a big safety issue. I know these guys are confident but it doesnt take much to have a preventable accident. Please use safer cutting procedures going forward so the next generation that sees these videos will opperate thier tools in a safer manner.
Originally published in ShopNotes in 2012 ? . Issue 121 for those who save them.
Yep, there are a ton of great projects in those old ShopNotes issues.
A bit too much talk and not enough action. Took too long to get started!!
Thank you for another great build video! Without locking the screw down after the height is adjusted, I would be concerned about the bit moving while routing. How well did the lift work when in use? Did you have any issues with it moving up or down while running the router? Thanks in advance.
More please. I’m all about me some money saving shop projects.
Sounds good to me... those are my favorite too ;)
Nice router lift but you guys cant do math..I calculated the cost that is mentioned on the site's material list and its 3 times more expensive than the $50. you've mentioned..lol Those numbers really count.
I didn’t have to do math... I bought all of the materials and I paid right around $50. Where are you ordering from? Are you referring to the amazon links on the plan page because in the purchased plans most of the hardware we sourced are through McMaster Carr? You can probably pick up most of the supplies at the local hardware store even cheaper and save on shipping costs. Also, I’m not including the price of insert plate because you’ll need that regardless if you build the lift or not.
Thanks for this video! I’ve been wanting to make this for years and finally did this month with my extra shop time from the pandemic. 😃 It was a challenging build for me but I’m happy with the results. I’m looking forward to using this. Thanks, guys! I appreciate your help and all the tips. 👍🏼
Glad it was helpful!
It's wonderfull, it's marvelous!
FYI Woodsmith - Your plans show that 5/16" holes should be drilled in the base plate and vertical guides, yet the lag screws are also specified as 5/16". This won't work and will result in lag screws that are loose in their holes.
Please update the plans.
Got it. Thanks!
I really really wanna / need to learn how to make me of these but i just cannot stand you two guys telling each other story’s and chit chatting about nonsense ......
Yeah, we are the worst... I hate us. The good news is there is a scrolling bar at the bottom where you can fast forward past the chit chat. 😉 Here is Steve Ramsey’s build video of our Router Lift (and he gets down to business a little quicker): ua-cam.com/video/QfjeS5jolBs/v-deo.html
This a nice and simple lift. I will add another set screw hole in on side of mine at a point where the router clamp is adjusted to most of the time, and will install a threaded rod out the side of my cabinet. That screw can be tightened to hold the router in position without disturbing the adjustment screws.Thanks for the great information
Sounds like an interesting upgrade... let us know how it works out.
Love these "how to" build videos! When I build the Combo Router Table, this will go in it too.
An idea for one of your builds is the "Wall-Mounted Drill Press Shelf" from Shop Notes #133 or #64. I'll let you choose.
I like both of those wall-mounted drill press projects. I've been eyeing a build on those for a while, but we don't have a benchtop drill press here in the shop... I have one at home so all the better to build it for myself ;)
What type of router does this take?
He disfrutado mucho viendo este vídeo, ¡gracias por compartir este sencillo y efectivo diseño de elevador de fresadora y el proceso de fabricación!.
¡Internet es una hermosa herramienta!.
Nice job, but 4:20 before any action. Keep intros short please.
Thanks! Good advice - I think we can tighten it up on the build videos in the future.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine yeah we viewers have really short attention spans these days, ill pass on a video if they dont get to the point almost immediately. Some youtubers go all out making these awesome very skillful elaborate intros and I never see them bevause I'm already on to the next video.
Maybe this is disappointing to some people bit of is just the way it is. You are competing with millions of other videos for views
Best get immediately down to business.
davearonow - Lesson learned... we’ll get right in to it in the future.
Personally, I like it the way it is, it feels like I'm hanging with a couple of buddies in the shop swapping shop stories. If your attention span is that short just use the slide bar to skip that part.
@@davearonow65 I've actually been "trained" by a number of creators that if it takes them a long time to get off the ground, they ultimately don't have all that much to say.
No disrespect intended to these Woodsmith creators, but I was click away from jumping to another channel when I was distracted for a few seconds and when I returned, they were into the build and I'm glad I stuck it out.
Will this fit in your woodsmith combination router table without modifications?
Absolutely!
Why is the plate off center to the lift?
The plans say "It works with almost any mid-sized router ...". Will it work with a Porter Cable 7500 series (3-1/4 max hp) router motor? Or does it fit the Porter Cable 6900 series (1-3/4 max hp). I have both, but want the Big Boy in the router table.
Yep Same as mine
I made this a couple of years ago, still going strong.
Great to hear! Ours too. 👍
Pourriez-vous traduire en français merci
Sorry if I missed this somewhere..... Instead of the Hard Maple, could you use cabinet grade plywood and reduce the chance wood changing with temp and humidity?
I would think that plywood would be a fine substitute in this case.
Love this build....do yourself a favor and order an acme lead screw from mcmaster....threaded rod will give you some "slop" after making adjustments....the acme screw will not...thanks for sharing
I am making this right now over the Christmas holiday to work with a table saw extension router table. I couldn't find a 3/4" - 16 threaded rod locally so, am going to use a 3/4" - 10 rod, should be okay. Just won't have the same fine adjustment the 16 tpi provides. Also, I didn't want to spend the $35+ for a plastic router plate so, will be making my plate out of the same 3/4" baltic birch plywood that I am using for the table top.
Those design modifications should work just fine. Good luck and let us know how it all works out for you.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine I just completed this project yesterday. The 3/4" - 10 rod works just fine. The table extension is 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood. I cut out the 9" x 12" insert hole on my CNC and made an insert to fit out of the same material. Mounting the lift onto the insert was a bit of a challenge but, I got it done.
Really nice video. Safety glasses are really important while filing metal. Getting metal out a patient’s eye is really no fun for the patient.
No lie... thanks for the reimnder.
Hello. Could you please provide the dimensions of router lift? I mean, first of all, the handle of the milling machine.
Don't you have a follow up video MOUNTING and USING this?
Yeah, we probably should have included that... we do show using it in this video: ua-cam.com/video/-leV0LCkS_A/v-deo.html
Been looking for inspiration for making a router lift, and this has been helpful. However, after watching (inspiration from watching this video) I now can't help thinking that in 2022 you can utilize the 3D printer revolution to make this a lot better and simpler to make. Take a couple of lengths of 2020 aluminium profile with a couple of gantry wheels and it would be *way* quicker, more accurate and possibly cheaper than making your own rails out of wood. Just priced it up on eBay two 300mm/1ft lengths of 2020 profile and two sets of four-wheel 2020 gantries come to 25USD shipped. You would also need an M6 tap to thread the centre hole of the 2020 profile and some M6 bolts. However again not expensive and you are saving a lot of time.
Ok, I must be an idiot. Please no cruel remarks but I have a question about the Woodsmith homemade router lift. I purchased the plans for this and have it all built but have run into a snag with the all thread and the lock nuts that go on the bottom. If you look at the plans it depicts that you thread the locknut that goes on the top of the bottom plate from the top of the all thread. This is turning out to be impossible for me to do. The lock nut seizes up on me. I can't get it to go past the nylon insert. Alternatively, I try to thread it from the bottom of the all thread and, of course it won't go on because it shows to have it with the nylon end up, which means I have to thread it using the nylon end first. I have tried to thread the lock nut from the top of the all thread but this has caused the threads to be damaged and the lock nut just will not go past the nylon insert without damaging the threads on the all thread. Now the all thread won't thread on to my coupling nut due to the threads being damaged on the all thread. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure I have either misunderstood the plans or something.
I only have 1 functioning arm, so a table saw is a no-go for me.
Could I use a small rotary tool router in place of the dado blades? I have a giant router, but I cannot control it with one arm. Thus the need for a table/lift.
This is a very simple build. It certainly less expensive than a commercial version. One thing I didn't see was methods to insure the posts and guide runners are absolutely square. I guess the set screws could make up for a small amount of misalignment.🙂🙂
I bought the plans and am at a stopping point. On page 5 of the plans, the drawing of the main block and the clamping block are not complete. Cutting out the inside of the blocks, not all the measurements are there. I see some left to right measurements on the inside of the blocks but there are no top to bottom measurements. I see 1 1/4 from bottom to top of left angle, but what is the cut from that angle to the top? Also on the clamping block. I see 1/2" from left to top of right angle but what is the measurement from there to the next angle.
Yeah, that drawing does seem a little jumbled. I've added the premium drawings to your plan which you can access by logging into WoodsmithPlans.com and going to the plan page: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/router-jig-router-lift/ There should be a "shop drawings" link right above the "Download" button. I'm not really satisfied with the way it was dimensioned there either, so I e-mailed you another drawing of the clamping blocks, as well. I added a Free Plan Credit to your account too. Sorry for the inconvenience, John D.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine are the measurements hes asking about included in the premium drawings? Not looking for the free stuff but i hate fractions and am getting a headache trying to figure out the 2nd measurement he was asking about lol. I see its 1 7/8” to centerline but i suck at math and would rather pay extra for the premiums than get aggravated with this if the measurements are there! This is why i swapped to using metric in my woodworking. So much faster and easier than dang fractions! Lol. And will it let me just pay the extra $8 or will i have to buy the whole thing again?
P.S. I meant to choose metric 😂
@@Rembo318 - can I get your name or e-mail address to locate your account on WoodsmithPlans.com and then I can help you get the correct version and info you need.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine Remylord23@icloud.com
Is the threaded rod (lead screw?) 1/2 inch? Fine thread? Please confirm.
Seems like someone suggested Acme thread; how would that compare?
I am looking to buy one if anybody has one for sale? It's important to be precise and and 100% correct
The plans for this lift are not as detailed as I'd wished. As a fairly experienced DIY'er, I had a huge challenge with getting the holes to align (16:00 in the video) - so much so that I ended up having to start over with a fresh base and remake the router carriage because the rod was misaligned and bound when I tried to raise and lower the carriage.
One other issue that I've now encountered is the router type must be one that utilizes the wrenches to install/remove the bits. A router which uses a push button to lock the shaft so the collet can be loosened won't work because the router can't be raised high enough to access the button in order to change the bit.
Finally, I had to laugh out loud when they said "This is probably something you could throw together in an afternoon"! I'm in the middle of my fourth weekend and still haven't gotten the insert plate mounted on the vertical supports. I'm saving hundreds of dollars by not buying one, but I'm just paying that money to my therapist to help me deal with the anxiety that's coming from this build!
It's definitely doable, but just be aware that the devil is in the details with this one!
A good way to mount the threaded rod in a vice and also make it easy to rotate the rod by 60 degrees for each facet is to thread two sets of jam nuts onto the rod, adjusted so all facets of the nuts are parallel to each other. The nut closest to the end also acts as a stop for filing all the facets to a consistent length.
A couple of jam nuts as the socket head or a nut welded on the rod end would also work, but be larger.
question: for the clamp block, is it better to make it out of laminated plywood (as per the instructions) or out of a solid block of wood (I have a block of 2" thick red cedar from another project that I can use). Also, I have limited access to hardwood and what is available at my local is quite expensive. I am thinking of using 2"x4" pine stud lumber. Can I get away with using this softer wood? I am a novice and so would appreciate any advice. Thanks.
Jessem router lift $180. I admire that you go through this much effort but for myself I'll buy one. Thank you for posting this though great job on your skills
Great project. Shop builds done right are just as helpful as the factory ones, without so many bells and whistles. Thanks Guys, I'd like to see more videos like this.
I would love to see you guys come up with an incremental tablesaw fence (Incra style) with a digital readout. I hope I put a bug in somebody's ear. Thank you Woodsmith crew for all your efforts and incredible projects that you come up with.
2 questions...
I have a Benchdog cast iron router table that attaches to my table saw... will this work with that table?
My router is the 3hp Porter cable... will that fit in this lift?
Just a quick observation, not a criticism, winding a nut of the correct thread form onto the rod to the cut position will ensure that you can dress the cut then screw off the nut without any damage to the rod threads, and also prevent the risk of cross threading when using the rod.
I like these more challenging projects. Well done, guys!
Thanks!
Will this lift accept a dewalt 2 1/2 HP router, model 618PBK?
Great video as usual and an awesome path to conquer UA-cam. My "Two Fils" here is the video should be no longer than 20 minutes for UA-cam to consider it "pop-woodworking" and suggests it to viewers who are interested in such casual videos that are not long lectures or in-depth how-to.
A quick question though: Since we are in 2019 when Kreg already selling their own version of router-lift, doesn't this considered as conflict of interest? ;-p
I believe that this video puts Woodsmith on the right track for the future subscribers segment. Thanks John, Logan and everyone behind the scene.
I agree with you that we could probably pare down the length of the build videos for UA-cam. Viewers seem to have a pretty short attention span, so we might as well get right to the action.
Re: Kreg Router Lift... Yeah, between the Pocket Hole Jig build and now the router lift we're probably really annoying the people at Kreg ;)
Thanks for watching and the critique, Khalid.
I've been secretly using these wood plans for years.
i still have the book i just do not have the room for any thing else moved my router to table saw wing for space with new triton 31/4 hp router to replace the 2 hp that was in my table
Could also weld on a bold head instead of filing it down to be a bolt head.
Great idea!
Thanks!
Saludos nice el trabajo 300$ ah 60$. Haciendo ah tu medida
Is there any info on threaded bar size to use. Thanks Mark
We used 3/4”-16 threaded rod.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine for some reason that looks larger than 3/8". It looks more like 5/8" or 3/4" based on the size of your fingers and the other things in the video.
Charles Warnol - Yep, I misspoke... it is actually 3/4”-16 threaded rod.
Woodsmith hi, ¾”-16 is extremely hard to get at my location in Canada. Is using ¾”-10 or ⅜”-16 an option? Thanks.
Clever! I’m picturing a removable, height adjustable block that could be inserted to keep the mechanism from slipping down during operation. What keeps the bottom nuts (surrounding the bushing) from slipping over time as the router assembly is raised and lowered - and would it matter?
The bottom nuts are fiber washered lock nuts. They lock against the threads and the bush that was inserted. They will not move.
guys, you make a really good team and no wonder you do so good and precise work. Congratulations!
Nice idea... I like it...
Thanks!
Can this be adapted to a router table on my ryobi table saw from the bottom
Me gustaria que fuera gratis
Does it work for any router?
Oops 2 1/4 HP router
have tap will travel??
Too much chit-chat!
Very nice! Thanks
Awesome!
Thanks!
Thank you
I just finished mine. I ground my threaded rod to 3/8" square, and I'm going to epoxy a 1/4 inch socket to the end. That way I can use a 1/4" hex key or my screw gun to adjust. Also makes for a smaller hole in the router plate.
Awesome! Great idea.
I was thinking of threading a socket head cap screw in the end of the threaded rod to use a hex wrench and to minimize the hole in the plate. May have to blow out the saw dust occasionally.
Thanks.
Nice job 👍
I built this just after it was first published. I still use it. I did have to modify it a little when I changed routers. Another great thing about this build is that if you need to modify it to suit your router then that is all you need do, modify. Cheers John
Good to hear that this router lift has worked well for you over the years! :)
Thanks for the lift project. I've been putting off getting one because of the expense. This is much more affordable. The host in the green shirt wanders off subject a bit too much. It is annoying.
Thanks for watching. Yeah, Logan likes to talk :) We'll try to tighten it up a bit on the build videos in the future.
Yep - I like to talk. I guess I fail to see anywhere I talked about something not related to the router lift though? Thanks for watching anyhow!
@@wittmerlogan - Personally, I like to hear what Logan has to say... he adds a little personality to an otherwise mundane existence. :)
-Signed, The Founding Member of the Logan Fan Club
@@jtdoyle1 Yeah he talks a lot. Sign me up in this club ;-D
Elegant build, but my portable router table usually stands on a solid bench with only a few inches below the back of the router. Answer: a chemistry lab. scissor jack; in the closed position only 2" high. Cost: £40. No problem in use. Bernard, Cheshire , England.
where is the riving knife on your table saw bad example I use a car scissor jack on my router table works real well your system is total overkill
I agree with your point on the riving knife... I think it is a must-have safety feature for the table saw. Unfortunately, this model of table saw does not have a very good design for the riving knife and seems to be more of a nuisance than anything.