*This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries, **batery.repair** and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!*
I feel grateful this reconditioning program ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 was started. I had Three dead batteries scheduled for disposing of. Having said that, I tried out reconditioning them and it took me only an hour to do it! It doesn`t matter what type of battery you want, the process works.
When you've exposed metallic copper wire strands it is crucial to work in a goodly gob of dielectric grease. Now if you're not going to solder, but just crimp, the silicone based compound in the squeeze can is just fine, but if you are going to solder, the dielectric grease needs to be Sanchem Company's No-Ox-Id "A" (Special) grease that comes in little tubs or big squeeze tubes. Best use is to warm up the grease so it mushes into the wire strands; not hot, hot, just a bit warmed. You can tell when the grease is easy to push around. Lotsa grease, don't be stingy. Wipe it off and use a butane desk lighter that can stay on and apply resin core hi-temp silver bearing solder until you can fill the barrel. Then you can play games with heat shrink, etc., but don't leave too much copper showing and think the heat shrink is "super-duty," because it ain't. Lastly, and importantly, get a sheet of cheap linoleum from the carpet store and lay it across both battery terminals if you're futzing with wires up top. Be safe
Yes, there is a special tool for cutting a battery cable. It's called a . . . cable cutter. I just bought a good one yesterday at Lowe's Hardware for $7, plus tax. All the other cable cutters ranged from $18 to $32. The pricier ones had a nicer finish, but that was it. And I bought a foot of cable to practice with. I got to chatting with the clerk, a nice, young, African American guy, at university. He said, "I'll give you a little extra." He cut off 5 feet of cable, and wrote 1 foot on the tag! So I only paid for 1 foot.
You might want to saturate your bare copper cable with red anti corrosion protectant before crimping in addition to your dielectric grease. I've used that for years and it works great.
Put felt anti corrosion washers under the battery terminals and spray coat the battery terminals with battery terminal protection spray after assembly. These steps will prolong the life of the terminals.
I used a little copper hold down like you used to hold the connector. I cleaned it up cut it and placed around my battery post . then I put the cable back on and it really tightened up on the post.
Much appreciated! This was exactly what I wanted to know/need to do. Has anyone ever melted off the stock lead clamps? I was thinking about doing that.
No... don't grease your connections before crimping - not necessary with copper. What you do is put a piece of heat shrink across that joint after it's crimped on. If it's not the self adhesive type, dress the area with liquid electrical tape right before applying heat. 3M used to make something like that, but there are others also. This will seal the copper of the conductor and the inner barrel of your crimp away from unwanted moisture and battery fumes that can cause an early death to your valuable connection.
The original clamps are almost always best unless they are broken. You can _refurbish_ your clamps by; 1) Removing the bolt (sometimes it is best to cut the bolt in the middle with a hacksaw) and cut a bit out where the sides of the clamp meet using a very sharp knife or razor blade. 2) Enlarge the battery bolt hole slightly with a large round wood file if needed 3) Clean off any corrosion by soaking the clamps in a mix of warm baking soda and water. 4) Clean the top of the battery and the case with warm baking soda and water and wiping it dry. 5) Grease and install a new battery bolt that has a special nut made for battery clamps. 6) Clean the clamp and the battery terminail with a _blade type_ battery terminal cleaner. 7) Install anti corrosion washers on the battery and install and tighten battery terminals. 8) Spray battery terminal protector on each battery post. This will renew and protect your battery terminals for a long time and make your next battery replacement much easier.
Doug Anderson The original terminal is almost always best for having a gas tight seal between the wire and the terminal that won't corrode. The same applies to the auxiliary wires. The terminals won't flex enough to break if they aren't over tightened. The way I tighten terminals is that I try to swivel them as I tighten then. When they no longer swivel, they are tight enough.When I remove the terminals that are properly maintained I only need to loosen them about one turn. When anti corrosion measure are taken, there is no need to over tighten them or to do harsh cleaning that degrades the terminals.
Is there any adaptor to extend side post battery bolt? I heard of a very small vice grip on positive post. I hook up negative jumper cable on trunk hook. There should be some extention. My battery is in the trunk. Saturn Ion.
Dielectric grease is not supposed to be put on wires like that, it will ruin the connection, it's a insulator and should have never been coated on the wire like that. You crimp the wire and heat shrink it with glue lined shrink tube.
@@BobSmith-dm3vp At the expense of connectivity, what's more important? No corrosion or the electrical connection working? As I had said how to do it will help against corrosion.
I don't think you should use dielectric grease between the contacts of the wire and the crimp on terminal. Dielectric grease is an insulator!!! You should do a clean crimp no grease, attach everything, then grease it from the outside only. Never grease electrical contact points.
Dielectric grease is neither conductive or insulative. It is specifically formulated to lubricate and protect electrical connections from corrosion that will ultimately cause higher contact resistance.
@@lookeywho1287 dielectric is not conductive. Look it up. It goes on the surface of a terminal, not in between the terminal and the cable, and helps prevent corrosion. A true conductive grease has silver in it, and isn't cheap.
Steve Gentry Perhaps you should read my comment again. I did not say it was conductive. When used for spark plugs, it keeps the boot from sticking to the plug. Look it up.
Just brush them into the engine bay, it's not like there is sensitive electeonic stuff that doesnt like metal dust in it. That's the next guys problem, right?
*This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries, **batery.repair** and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!*
I feel grateful this reconditioning program ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 was started. I had Three dead batteries scheduled for disposing of. Having said that, I tried out reconditioning them and it took me only an hour to do it! It doesn`t matter what type of battery you want, the process works.
When you've exposed metallic copper wire strands it is crucial to work in a goodly gob of dielectric grease. Now if you're not going to solder, but just crimp, the silicone based compound in the squeeze can is just fine, but if you are going to solder, the dielectric grease needs to be Sanchem Company's No-Ox-Id "A" (Special) grease that comes in little tubs or big squeeze tubes. Best use is to warm up the grease so it mushes into the wire strands; not hot, hot, just a bit warmed. You can tell when the grease is easy to push around. Lotsa grease, don't be stingy. Wipe it off and use a butane desk lighter that can stay on and apply resin core hi-temp silver bearing solder until you can fill the barrel.
Then you can play games with heat shrink, etc., but don't leave too much copper showing and think the heat shrink is "super-duty," because it ain't.
Lastly, and importantly, get a sheet of cheap linoleum from the carpet store and lay it across both
battery terminals if you're futzing with wires up top.
Be safe
Yes, there is a special tool for cutting a battery cable. It's called a . . . cable cutter.
I just bought a good one yesterday at Lowe's Hardware for $7, plus tax. All the other cable cutters ranged from $18 to $32. The pricier ones had a nicer finish, but that was it.
And I bought a foot of cable to practice with. I got to chatting with the clerk, a nice, young, African American guy, at university. He said, "I'll give you a little extra."
He cut off 5 feet of cable, and wrote 1 foot on the tag! So I only paid for 1 foot.
Larry B talks about using solder down into the joint before putting the heat shield on
Great video. Interesting hack to use a pipe cutter. Always gotta work with what you've got.
You might want to saturate your bare copper cable with red anti corrosion protectant before crimping in addition to your dielectric grease. I've used that for years and it works great.
Put felt anti corrosion washers under the battery terminals and spray coat the battery terminals with battery terminal protection spray after assembly. These steps will prolong the life of the terminals.
I used a little copper hold down like you used to hold the connector. I cleaned it up cut it and placed around my battery post . then I put the cable back on and it really tightened up on the post.
Much appreciated! This was exactly what I wanted to know/need to do. Has anyone ever melted off the stock lead clamps? I was thinking about doing that.
What gauge terminal lugs did you get?
No... don't grease your connections before crimping - not necessary with copper. What you do is put a piece of heat shrink across that joint after it's crimped on. If it's not the self adhesive type, dress the area with liquid electrical tape right before applying heat. 3M used to make something like that, but there are others also. This will seal the copper of the conductor and the inner barrel of your crimp away from unwanted moisture and battery fumes that can cause an early death to your valuable connection.
What can you say about zinc alloy battery terminals ???
Try the Yazaki types
Doesn't work on a 7.3 (either one).
I do like the ball joint press hack. Very nice!
Get a pair of bolt cutters to cut battery cable
The original clamps are almost always best unless they are broken. You can _refurbish_ your clamps by; 1) Removing the bolt (sometimes it is best to cut the bolt in the middle with a hacksaw) and cut a bit out where the sides of the clamp meet using a very sharp knife or razor blade. 2) Enlarge the battery bolt hole slightly with a large round wood file if needed 3) Clean off any corrosion by soaking the clamps in a mix of warm baking soda and water. 4) Clean the top of the battery and the case with warm baking soda and water and wiping it dry. 5) Grease and install a new battery bolt that has a special nut made for battery clamps. 6) Clean the clamp and the battery terminail with a _blade type_ battery terminal cleaner. 7) Install anti corrosion washers on the battery and install and tighten battery terminals. 8) Spray battery terminal protector on each battery post.
This will renew and protect your battery terminals for a long time and make your next battery replacement much easier.
Doug Anderson The original terminal is almost always best for having a gas tight seal between the wire and the terminal that won't corrode. The same applies to the auxiliary wires. The terminals won't flex enough to break if they aren't over tightened. The way I tighten terminals is that I try to swivel them as I tighten then. When they no longer swivel, they are tight enough.When I remove the terminals that are properly maintained I only need to loosen them about one turn. When anti corrosion measure are taken, there is no need to over tighten them or to do harsh cleaning that degrades the terminals.
Where do you get the cutter
How much will this cost to let someone else do it
A jobber 30 a real garage 70-140 at 70$/h rate
Great job. Step by step.
Thanks
@@j-bobsgarage7535 p0⁰or ⁰k
Is there any adaptor to extend side post battery bolt? I heard of a very small vice grip on positive post. I hook up negative jumper cable on trunk hook. There should be some extention.
My battery is in the trunk. Saturn Ion.
The positive terminal is different on a Veloster
If that was me, I’dve soldered the terminal after crimping. Nice video though.
The old lady claimed I ruined her cutting board.
Good video! Subbed! I’m doing this to my 3rd Gen Cummins
Thanks man!
Guage: What was the AWG of the battery terminal wire?
2/0
I dont know
Dielectric grease is not supposed to be put on wires like that, it will ruin the connection, it's a insulator and should have never been coated on the wire like that. You crimp the wire and heat shrink it with glue lined shrink tube.
Prevents corrosion
@@BobSmith-dm3vp At the expense of connectivity, what's more important? No corrosion or the electrical connection working? As I had said how to do it will help against corrosion.
I don't think you should use dielectric grease between the contacts of the wire and the crimp on terminal. Dielectric grease is an insulator!!! You should do a clean crimp no grease, attach everything, then grease it from the outside only. Never grease electrical contact points.
Dielectric grease is neither conductive or insulative. It is specifically formulated to lubricate and protect electrical connections from corrosion that will ultimately cause higher contact resistance.
@@lookeywho1287 dielectric is not conductive. Look it up. It goes on the surface of a terminal, not in between the terminal and the cable, and helps prevent corrosion. A true conductive grease has silver in it, and isn't cheap.
Steve Gentry Perhaps you should read my comment again. I did not say it was conductive. When used for spark plugs, it keeps the boot from sticking to the plug. Look it up.
Grinder and cut off wheel would have been easier, and safer.
Great video!
Link for the pipe cutter?
Home Depot, Grainger, Lowes, Tractor Supply, or McCoys.
Plumbing dept
I have one corroded terminal from a battery lead. Tempted to do this.
It's worth it. I bet you could borrow the crimping tool and ball joint press from a parts store if you don't have one.
Is that a breather tube coming up off your crankcase canister?
How bout using a bolt cutter??
Might work
@@j-bobsgarage7535 LOL I just use a Cable cutter/Stripper but then i own one because i was an Electrician
A large C-clamp will work in place of a ball joint press
Most important question, did it solve your issue??
Absolutely, still no issues a year and a half later
@@j-bobsgarage7535 good to hear. I just ordered new cables from custombatterycables.com hoping that they do the trick. Cheers.
should of upgrade the cables too.
Just did this getting the No Bus On my dash check my grounds and moved the cables around can’t figure it out please help
I can't help but think you're scattering tons of tiny copper shards all over your engine.
Just brush them into the engine bay, it's not like there is sensitive electeonic stuff that doesnt like metal dust in it. That's the next guys problem, right?
This has to be the worst way Ive ever seen this done. Idea wise ya good upgrades but you made this a lot harder than it really is.
Lost me at fixing the cable down to a board just to cut it off. Sawsalls suck
I would have used a hacksaw instead of a saws-all.
A lot safer. I would use a cutting torch to remove the terminal and cable and anything else that catches on fire.
Too much talk but good job.