Hey buddy, just wanted to let you know your video helped me and encouraged me to do the same thing on my Mk2 (finally, it was in need for this for a few years now). I used heat resistant Aluminium tape. The result is almost painfully hot air and it was not even hard to do using your method. Absolutely worth it. 👍
I just did the same, heat resist Al tape, followed your instructive video, but popped out the dash grids before unscrewing the frame - they just pull straight forward. A torch is really handy! Now, if I can just stop it revving to 3.5K on a cold morning I'll be sweet 😂
I just figured this out with my mk2 that you can just pull those turning bits out. They come off fairly easy and give you better access with a screwdriver and there's also a couple of clips that make the whole part a night mare to pull off if you don't ease them up a bit as you're pulling
Saludos desde españa gran video, yo quiero hacer lo mismo en mi mk2 GTI 16V y estaba pensando en cambiar el radiador de calefacción pensando que ese seria mi problema, pero el caso es que mi radidor no pierde anticongelante ni nada y ya empizo a pensar que es de la dichosa espuma esa marron que me empezo a tirar por los aireadores, alomejor poniendo cinta como tu has echo en las trampillas metalicas me vuelve a tirar calor tu que crees? Y asi me ahorro el tener que desmontar mas cosas para sacar el radiador
@@Endfloatal final forre las trampillas con cinta de aluminio anti calórica y nada, sale algo más de calor pero muy poco y en invierno con días muy fríos ese poco calor que sale no se va a notar, yo recuerdo la calefacción que tenía mi coche antes de que surguiera el problema y salía bastante más calor, así que me tocará volver ha desmontar y cambiar radiador que ya lo tengo pedido y está por llegarme, pedi un radiador de calefacción de la marca febi blistein
thank you for the clear video I have a question vw golf mk2 1986 without air conditioner , left side driver if you are facing the car front in the heater core what pipe that takes the hot water from the engine block ? if the pipes are swapped does the hor air temp keeps the same or it's colder ? if you know please help me out no one is giving a clear answer and I bought the car like that . thank you in advance
Later answer, but in a left side drive Golf Mk2 the pipe on the drivers side is the hot one and the pipe on the passenger side is the cold(er) one. If you've ever seen the internals of the heater matrix, you will find that if the pipes are swapped the incoming cold air is first heated (but not pre-heated). But then there is no further heating because before exiting the heater matrix, the air would go through the colder side. So yes, connecting the pipes backwards should have a negative impact on heating because the optimal flow from cold to hot is interrupted. With the pipes connected the way they should be, the incoming cold air is first pre-heated by the leaving coolant and then heated to full temperature by the hot side.
Do you think the hot air will soften the glue on the duct tape after a while, allowing the tape to fall away? I did this job on my last mk2 Jetta but remade those metal doors inside the heater matrix housing in sheet metal with no holes. It was an all - day job though. My current mk2 Jetta is blowing bits of foam out of the vents so will need to be sorted too. Trev.
I did think of that to be honest. Time will tell. If needs be, I can go further and remove the flaps and remake them. Hopefully I won't have to go down that route though.
@@Endfloat I did flush the old one ....jeer it was very clogged... however I replaced it cos it has small leaks of coolant...with the new one ...I am satisfied. heater is doing just fine
If it starts normally (warm) and gets cold as the engine reaches operating temperature, you probably have these pressure reduction valves still installed. VW installed them in some cases to protect the heater matrix, but they should be removed because as they age they tend to reduce or even block the water flow to the heater matrix. These valves have a thermostat that breaks, that's why the air get's cold as the engine gets warm.
It would probably take you as long to get the camera into a position where you'd be able to see anything as it would to just access the flaps, and if your heating is poor, it's the most likely cause.
@@Endfloat Bought a cheap inspection camera, the 30quid type, popped it in the center vent and saw the flapps at once.. and saw that the previous owner had used duct tape to seal it... and it had fallen off... So I`ll go buy some aluminium duckting tape and give it a go.
@@afroaliens oh right! I'm surprised they were that easy to get at. Well that's great you found the problem. You'll notice that what I did was use duct tape on both sides so the pieces stick together through the holes and will hopefully prevent them from falling off. I can't understand why they used the foam in the first place!
@@Endfloat looks like he did the same here... but I`ll open it up tomorrow and have a look.. But, the car is in norway, and here the heater only has one setting... full on! for about 6months...
I have just acquired a golf driver automatic and it's blowing foam all over the place ! Heat is mediocre at best, I think you just answered my questions 😂. Why did they use foam instead of solid baffles ? Do you think it allows for smoother operation or allows for some air circulation to other vents ?
@@Endfloat as a side note, I watched your review of your auto golf driver before buying mine. You were spot on with your observations on high revs at motorway speeds, it's not too bad. I'm very pleased with how well it drives in general.
My heater is making a whole lot of noise which gets louder as soon as I steer into a corner. Also it isn't producing a whole lot of heat. This heat problem possibly will be solved if I tape off those holes?
Your problem might be with your fan, which is easily accessed in the left side foot well behind the insulation up under the dash. Make sure your scuttle drain isn't clogged up too.
Took me two days to complete but finally finished, thank you for taking the time to make this tutorial
Hey buddy, just wanted to let you know your video helped me and encouraged me to do the same thing on my Mk2 (finally, it was in need for this for a few years now). I used heat resistant Aluminium tape.
The result is almost painfully hot air and it was not even hard to do using your method. Absolutely worth it. 👍
Delighted you got it sorted and I'm glad I was able to help! 😎
I just did the same, heat resist Al tape, followed your instructive video, but popped out the dash grids before unscrewing the frame - they just pull straight forward. A torch is really handy! Now, if I can just stop it revving to 3.5K on a cold morning I'll be sweet 😂
Great video. I’ve the same problem with my MK2. Will have to add this to the jobs list.👍
I just figured this out with my mk2 that you can just pull those turning bits out. They come off fairly easy and give you better access with a screwdriver and there's also a couple of clips that make the whole part a night mare to pull off if you don't ease them up a bit as you're pulling
Saludos desde españa gran video, yo quiero hacer lo mismo en mi mk2 GTI 16V y estaba pensando en cambiar el radiador de calefacción pensando que ese seria mi problema, pero el caso es que mi radidor no pierde anticongelante ni nada y ya empizo a pensar que es de la dichosa espuma esa marron que me empezo a tirar por los aireadores, alomejor poniendo cinta como tu has echo en las trampillas metalicas me vuelve a tirar calor tu que crees? Y asi me ahorro el tener que desmontar mas cosas para sacar el radiador
That's exactly what it is. In any case, you might as well do the simpler, cheaper job first.
@@Endfloatal final forre las trampillas con cinta de aluminio anti calórica y nada, sale algo más de calor pero muy poco y en invierno con días muy fríos ese poco calor que sale no se va a notar, yo recuerdo la calefacción que tenía mi coche antes de que surguiera el problema y salía bastante más calor, así que me tocará volver ha desmontar y cambiar radiador que ya lo tengo pedido y está por llegarme, pedi un radiador de calefacción de la marca febi blistein
thank you for the clear video
I have a question
vw golf mk2 1986 without air conditioner , left side driver
if you are facing the car front
in the heater core
what pipe that takes the hot water from the engine block ?
if the pipes are swapped does the hor air temp keeps the same or it's colder ?
if you know please help me out
no one is giving a clear answer and I bought the car like that .
thank you in advance
Later answer, but in a left side drive Golf Mk2 the pipe on the drivers side is the hot one and the pipe on the passenger side is the cold(er) one.
If you've ever seen the internals of the heater matrix, you will find that if the pipes are swapped the incoming cold air is first heated (but not pre-heated). But then there is no further heating because before exiting the heater matrix, the air would go through the colder side. So yes, connecting the pipes backwards should have a negative impact on heating because the optimal flow from cold to hot is interrupted.
With the pipes connected the way they should be, the incoming cold air is first pre-heated by the leaving coolant and then heated to full temperature by the hot side.
Nice fix.. interesting point about headlights, think the round ones added a little personality too.
Do you think the hot air will soften the glue on the duct tape after a while, allowing the tape to fall away?
I did this job on my last mk2 Jetta but remade those metal doors inside the heater matrix housing in sheet metal with no holes. It was an all - day job though.
My current mk2 Jetta is blowing bits of foam out of the vents so will need to be sorted too.
Trev.
I did think of that to be honest. Time will tell. If needs be, I can go further and remove the flaps and remake them. Hopefully I won't have to go down that route though.
Aluminium tape might do the job. The adhesive is heat resistant.
@@Endfloat did the tape stay in place over time?
I get the same with my mk2 along with many cooling problems, I seem to get a foam web sheet blowing though my vents, never warm air anymore
That's your problem so. You need to patch up those holes.
I want to try and check mine..it blows warm air after 10mins it starts to blow cold air..so I am not sure..but I will try your tricks
You might want to try back flushing your heater matrix too.
@@Endfloat I did flush the old one ....jeer it was very clogged... however I replaced it cos it has small leaks of coolant...with the new one ...I am satisfied. heater is doing just fine
If it starts normally (warm) and gets cold as the engine reaches operating temperature, you probably have these pressure reduction valves still installed. VW installed them in some cases to protect the heater matrix, but they should be removed because as they age they tend to reduce or even block the water flow to the heater matrix. These valves have a thermostat that breaks, that's why the air get's cold as the engine gets warm.
It’s likely the blend door foam has crumbled opening up the holes in the blend door
That's exactly what it was. Take a look at the rest of the video and you'll see how I fixed it. It's still working now.
Why did they use foam in the first place?
I never did figure that one out.
@@Endfloat thanks for the video, will be fairly useful when I get my mk2.
Would it be possible to stick a inspection camera in one of the vents to have a look at the flaps without taking everything appart?
It would probably take you as long to get the camera into a position where you'd be able to see anything as it would to just access the flaps, and if your heating is poor, it's the most likely cause.
@@Endfloat I`ll give it a go and report back!
@@Endfloat Bought a cheap inspection camera, the 30quid type, popped it in the center vent and saw the flapps at once.. and saw that the previous owner had used duct tape to seal it... and it had fallen off... So I`ll go buy some aluminium duckting tape and give it a go.
@@afroaliens oh right! I'm surprised they were that easy to get at. Well that's great you found the problem. You'll notice that what I did was use duct tape on both sides so the pieces stick together through the holes and will hopefully prevent them from falling off. I can't understand why they used the foam in the first place!
@@Endfloat looks like he did the same here... but I`ll open it up tomorrow and have a look..
But, the car is in norway, and here the heater only has one setting... full on! for about 6months...
I have just acquired a golf driver automatic and it's blowing foam all over the place ! Heat is mediocre at best, I think you just answered my questions 😂. Why did they use foam instead of solid baffles ? Do you think it allows for smoother operation or allows for some air circulation to other vents ?
Honestly I haven't a clue! Maybe to make the blowers quieter or something but it seems like a stupid design. Anyway, glad I could help!
@@Endfloat as a side note, I watched your review of your auto golf driver before buying mine. You were spot on with your observations on high revs at motorway speeds, it's not too bad. I'm very pleased with how well it drives in general.
My heater is making a whole lot of noise which gets louder as soon as I steer into a corner. Also it isn't producing a whole lot of heat. This heat problem possibly will be solved if I tape off those holes?
Your problem might be with your fan, which is easily accessed in the left side foot well behind the insulation up under the dash. Make sure your scuttle drain isn't clogged up too.
@@Endfloat thanks, I will have a look at it! Edit: it is working really good no, like a sauna!
Do you know if this is the same on a Polo MK2? (Type 86)
I'd be very surprised if it isn't, although I'm not 100% sure.
Cheers for that