This was a great help for me. I bought a cart with no key switch, no F/R switch, etc. Somehow, it ran.?? Now I can get it right! Thanks .watched on 7/19/24
Glen Nice video. Where can I get a new sweeper switch or fix mine. Our cart jumps from 0 mph to full speed after we put the accelerator to the floor. I think the sweeper is not touching good until the highest speed and postition. Thanks jim
Great video - super helpful. I have the same cart & exact same motor. I'm trying to troubleshoot the motor. Do you know which motor terminals are A1, A2, S1, & S2 so I can test the motor? Thanks!
my cart has been down for 5 years because of 1 wire. This is the only complete source for explaining the set up that i could find. Even the wiring diagrams left out sweeper board or solenoid. Thank you Thank you Thank you
Just got an 86 gas cart. Love the look of yours. Would LOVE a video overview of what you did to your cart (in addition to the dualies...I saw that video). It's sweet and is inspiring some ideas. Thanks!
Man struggling. I wired it exactly like you did. Verified multiple times. For some reason as soon as I put it in forward or reverse it takes off without hitting the accelerator pedal. Any thoughts?
Hi again, Glenn! Watched your video again and realized your setup is a bit different than mine as far as some of the wiring is concerned, like where the wires from the key switch go and the ones to and from the motor. It seems the F/R switch can be wired differently so long as you're careful where the Positive feeds the switch. You have your Positive going to the 9 position while I have mine going to the 12 (high noon) position. All in all, this has been a fun and very interesting project, rewiring my EZ-Go cart and learning about its inner workings. If all goes well, I'll have the thing up and running this coming week (if the weather doesn't keep me indoors out of the cold). Thanks again for your video. I may do one of my own and present the wiring diagram I'm using, pointing to a wire or cable and then going to the diagram and saying, "Yeah, this one in the diagram is the one I'm holding (or pointing to)." I think that might help a few folks. Take care!
Very useful info. What year is yours ? I just bought one with no batteries or wires and I want to do what you’ve done. I noticed on my motor it has s1 and s2 and a1 and a2.
Not exactly. It only changes the polarity of the field winding, the polarity of the armature stays the same. Changing the electrical polarity of the stator causes its magnetic poles to flip (north to south) which causes the rotor to rotate in the opposite direction.
Hey, appreciate the video. It makes perfect sense. I've had some wire issue. The put a rebuilt motor on there. And I forgot where the wires go and it really helped me out. Thank you, I'll be driving this weekend. Thank you guys.
Thanks for the video, it is very useful. I have a question, hope you can help. My golf cart quit moving when I press the pedal. Batteries are charged and solenoid clicks, but it doesn't move. All connections look good. Could it be a bad solenoid? Thanks in advance....
My EZ-Go did this once. A neighbor who knows nothing about golf cart wiring looked into the battery box and within a few seconds located a disconnected wire. Once it was replaced, the cart was back in business. Hope this helps.
hey there Glen, good video, shows me alot regarding my cart thats new to me, I just dont know what year my cart is? looks very similar as yours, what year is your cart?
Very Thankful for you and I hope you help me to understand an old electric golf club car it’s motor is DC separate excited 4kw 48v the control circuite 5 selniodes 1 to connect the positive battery to the field wdg terminal the another terminal connected to the negative terminal of the battery .The rest 4 seolinoide are for forward and reverse using the armature terminals The problem for me is ther is on stsarting resistor (losted)the box of it cntain only a microswitsh activated only at a position the accelerator is free Can you help me to repair this car .Thank you very much
Thank you so much and iam sorry for my poor language .My problem is an electric golf cart the control circuit is damaged I want to rewind the motor control agine The motor nameplate data is 4KW. 48V Dc. Rotor Current 110 A Field Current 10A Rated Speed 2500rpm Ins.ClassH. IP20. 04/10/08 Chinese. The rest of the controls elements in the car is 5 selonids .so I ask you A suitable wiring diagram fit for the motor data to repair this faulted car .Thanks
I have a 1992 ez-go 36v converted to 12v. The batteries are bad so going with 3 12v lithium batteries 100ah. Does anyone know if the stock motor can handle the surge/load of lithium batteries? Thanks
I have the same cart , they’re kinda rare online at least. I can’t seem to make mine faster even with a new motor. Mechanic tells me theirs nothing I can. Do . Any tips to make it faster, I’m willing to spend money
How fast do you want to go? He's probably right. I'm not sure if you can change the gears in the differential but you can put taller tires on it. But you'll also loose some power.
I need help 😫 please. I have a 36 volt ezgo 110, older one like a 1982. We replaced the batterys and now the cart moved with the key off. We don't know why.
Hey Glen, nice video. I'm trying to get my 1986 1/2 EZGO to operate without straight wiring the new solenoid like I did a cheap one. The guy before me (I've seen it done like this in a video) had the micro switch beside the solenoid (at the "sweeper") wired from the hot side of battery at drivers seat to the right side of that micro switch then the left side of switch going to the small solenoid terminal ...then, had the key switch wire going to the small left side terminal (where you have the black wire going to ground). That is the only thing different on yours besides me having a resistor and diode attached to the solenoid. Now I'm wondering if that is my issue. I have tested the motor and batteries and all is good there. I might run the wiring like you have it because the way it is now is sparking at the board assembly where the forward/reverse connects to the wiring.
Do you still have your cart? I have the same setup but my Ignition is different one lead goes straight to the cylanoid does yours go to the positive than to the cylnoid ?
My switch has one lead going to battery positive and then the other side has two wires coming out and going to the two micro switches on the forward/reverse switch. Hope this helps.
I'm not sure what's going on but typically golf carts are wired in series, which means positive to negative. So starting with the first battery you will come off of the negative post to the positive post on the next battery and so on until you get to the last battery and that battery would be connected negative to ground. I assume you have a 36 volt golf cart that has three 12 volt batteries.
I haven't used it in a while, but it was ok it's definitely nothing fancy. It will do the basics like water depth and temperature and it'll mark fish but who knows how accurate it is. If you use it long it'll pull the battery down on your phone. I basically just needed a depth finder so it served that purpose. Hope this helps.
@@GlennConner Ok great thanks for the reply. My son has extra battery packs for his phone. Would you consider passing it along for another person to use it for a while and do a review on it and pass it on again? Understand if not but if ya don't use it anymore would ya want to sell it?
Thanks for the video. Wish i watched it before i went with a wire diagram online (burnt a lead in my motor). Any chance you can tell me the leads on you motor. From the video the first one closest to the front looked like F something. My post placement is different. It is a rear facing motor. So placement of F1, F2, A1, and A2 please. Hate to ask, but it will really help.
Hey I just wanted to say thank you. I got a cart about 4 months ago and they said that it had not run sense they got it. Have bought a lot of parts for it. Even had a golf cart guru. To work on it with no results. Watched your video and it is running now. In one day. Thanks. I wish that the other people putting out videos would be more like you.
Glenn, John here again. I want to be crystal clear about the wires that hook up to the Solenoid. Can you verify that the two cables that run from the large post at the rear end of the Solenoid (the post pointing toward the rear of your cart) is labeled "BAT" on the Solenoid. That large post is labeled BAT on mine and has a small arrow pointing to this large post. I ask this because my Solenoid sits flat in the compartment while yours is sitting upright. So there's a chance I have my Solenoid turned around in relation to yours. I have a new White Rodgers Solenoid, if that helps at all. Of course, I have to consider where the wires to the small posts on the Solenoid go as well. I could have them backwards. Thank you in advance for any help.
I have a 1987 EZGO Marathon. On your video, the wire coming from the solenoid outlet that is joined to the slow speed resistor wire (#1), you have it correct. The bottom bolt is not used. I just replaced this 5 bolt contact board and the accelerator speed sensor drag that is also connected to the outlet of the solenoid. There is a good video to show this if you ask UA-cam for an accelerator speed sensor replacement. My original problem was that in either forward or reverse, I would have to stomp on the accelerator until the cart would finally make a move. Now that I have new replacement parts, my accelerator works great in F and R. But now I have a new problem. In either choice, I begin rolling without even stepping on the accelerator. (This is because I am tied into resistor wire #1). And whether the key switch is on or off, my cart is "hot" in F or R. By "hot" I mean batteries are getting hot and stinking and you have to pull a battery wire off to stop it. Makes some sparks, yeah. I learned only in Neutral am I not producing current. This is totally unexpected. I had no problem with the FNR selector prior to changing out the accelerator contact board and speed sensor drag. Using your video I will back trace my small wires from the switch through the microswitches back to the solenoid. My heavy wires are all in their correct place, not sure about the tiny ones though. My focus is why the solenoid is being energized with the key switch on or off. If anyone has experienced this, let me know. I will be watching this posting. Thank you. Great video and all your battery connections are so clean.
Thanks, kinda sounds like a solenoid wire got put back in the wrong place. Be careful I'm sure you know that sulfer or rotten egg smell from batteries is a flammable gas. I hope you can get it figured out. Thanks for watching!
I am having the same exact issues, moves when put into forward and reverse and my pedal is not working. Key on or off doesn't shut anything off. I just got the cart so I don't know any history on it. Got it as is. Did you get yours figured out?
@@supastang11784 What fixed my problem with the unexpected "hot" situation was replacing the solenoid. That was not my original problem, but it surfaced anyway. Unknowingly my bad solenoid was energized, so in Neutral l was safe. But selecting F or R just made the cart move. Someone replied they purchased a 36 volt solenoid from O'REILLY'S for $36. I paid $22 from Amazon. Replacing the drag contact on the accelerator pedal linkage and the fiberglass contact board with the 5 brass bolts fixed my original problem. Good luck
If you use the charger that came with the cart, it will be a 36 volt charger so no matter what combination of batteries you use you will still be charging 36 volts. As long as you have them wired in series, which is positive to negative.
@@mjonesyjr My EZ-Go did the same. The accelerator pedal rod was too long. I took off the rod, bent it a bit to make it shorter (sort of like a bow) put it back on and that fixed the problem.
Did your solenoid have a diode between the smaller terminals? If so what size was it? My cart goes as soon as i put it in gear and im trying to figure out why. Any thoughts? I have a schematic that shows some additional wires but if I figure mine out Ill let you know. Your video game me some good starting points.
This is the best and most informative video on golf cart wiring I've ever seen. Thank you so very much. You made most everything fun to watch. Question: Could you explain the wiring of the Micro Switch near the Solenoid a bit more please? My Micro Switch goes to the Buzzer and another terminal goes to the Solenoid.. I want to get rid of the Buzzer,. Can I also get rid of this Micro Switch near the Solenoid? Thank you for any help. I'll be watching you for more interesting videos. Stay safe. Take care. And Happy New Year to you and yours. johnt
@@GlennConner Ok, I'll try that. The Buzzer never worked anyway. I like your backup light idea. I will probably try it with a single headlight for my vintage EZ-Go...I think it's an early 70's model but I'm not sure. Did all the EZ-Go carts after '71 go gas, or did they still make the electric models, too? Even though your cart looks very new, the battery compartment looks very similar to mine, which made your video that much more interesting and informative. What wiring diagram did you use to wire your cart? I've got a few I look at, but none are a perfect match. Once again, thanks for your excellent video. Take care and stay safe. Best to you and yours, johnt
I don't think they ever stopped making electric golf carts. Like you I couldn't find a useful wiring diagram, that's what inspired the video. If I can help with anything let me know. Thanks
@@GlennConner Ok, thanks. It'll be interesting to see if it runs without that Micro Switch. I'll let you know. If it does, I'll be amazed. I've let this cart sit on my back patio for over a year, thinking I had a big job to do to rewire that solenoid and switch. Once going, however, it'll be great fun. I've taken all the excess steel off this EZ-Go, so it's relatively light weight and goes almost too fast due to the lose steering. Have you got any ideas on how to tighten up the steering? Right now mine is sloppy and likes to drift right and left. : )
@@GetRealBaby I have a video on replacing the solenoid on my channel. As far as the steering goes I would check all of the tie rods and the pitman arm where it connects to the steering gear box. If all of that is tight I would check the toe in, it should be toed in on the front of the tire by about an eighth of an inch. Then the steering box might need adjusting. I would have to look at mine to see how that adjustment works. Hope this helps!
This was a great help for me. I bought a cart with no key switch, no F/R switch, etc. Somehow, it ran.?? Now I can get it right! Thanks .watched on 7/19/24
Great explanation!
Thanks... just getting familiar and this did the trick
Glen Nice video. Where can I get a new sweeper switch or fix mine. Our cart jumps from 0 mph to full speed after we put the accelerator to the floor. I think the sweeper is not touching good until the highest speed and postition. Thanks jim
I usually buy from eBay or Amazon
Great video - super helpful. I have the same cart & exact same motor. I'm trying to troubleshoot the motor. Do you know which motor terminals are A1, A2, S1, & S2 so I can test the motor? Thanks!
I'm sorry I don't. Thanks for watching!
my cart has been down for 5 years because of 1 wire. This is the only complete source for explaining the set up that i could find. Even the wiring diagrams left out sweeper board or solenoid. Thank you Thank you Thank you
Wow, that makes it worth it. Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Just got an 86 gas cart. Love the look of yours. Would LOVE a video overview of what you did to your cart (in addition to the dualies...I saw that video). It's sweet and is inspiring some ideas. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this great video!! I appreciate you for making time and making this great video. Keep up good work. God Bless!!
Man struggling. I wired it exactly like you did. Verified multiple times. For some reason as soon as I put it in forward or reverse it takes off without hitting the accelerator pedal. Any thoughts?
@jameshorrocks2939 either the resting terminal on the accelerator has a wire hooked to it or the solenoid is stuck. 🤔
Found the issue. It was a bad footpedal micro switch.
@jameshorrocks2939 Great, I'm glad you got it figured out.
Hi again, Glenn! Watched your video again and realized your setup is a bit different than mine as far as some of the wiring is concerned, like where the wires from the key switch go and the ones to and from the motor. It seems the F/R switch can be wired differently so long as you're careful where the Positive feeds the switch. You have your Positive going to the 9 position while I have mine going to the 12 (high noon) position.
All in all, this has been a fun and very interesting project, rewiring my EZ-Go cart and learning about its inner workings. If all goes well, I'll have the thing up and running this coming week (if the weather doesn't keep me indoors out of the cold).
Thanks again for your video. I may do one of my own and present the wiring diagram I'm using, pointing to a wire or cable and then going to the diagram and saying, "Yeah, this one in the diagram is the one I'm holding (or pointing to)." I think that might help a few folks. Take care!
Cool let me know if you get it going.
Very useful info. What year is yours ? I just bought one with no batteries or wires and I want to do what you’ve done. I noticed on my motor it has s1 and s2 and a1 and a2.
Not sure, I think its mid 80s.
@@GlennConner did you covert it to 3 12v batteries or was it like that when you bought it ?
I converted it.
@@GlennConner any issues? Would you recommend doing it ?
No issues that I've noticed. You just have to keep in mind that the run time is significantly shorter on a charge.
i have the exact wiring on my EZGO and the coil over heats and i cant figure out why.
They will get red hot
Like ur video . I have the golf car same like ur. But I'm stuck with the connection.
The forward/reverse switch is reversing the polarity going to the drive motor.
Not exactly. It only changes the polarity of the field winding, the polarity of the armature stays the same. Changing the electrical polarity of the stator causes its magnetic poles to flip (north to south) which causes the rotor to rotate in the opposite direction.
Hey, appreciate the video. It makes perfect sense. I've had some wire issue. The put a rebuilt motor on there. And I forgot where the wires go and it really helped me out. Thank you, I'll be driving this weekend. Thank you guys.
Glad it helped and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video, it is very useful. I have a question, hope you can help. My golf cart quit moving when I press the pedal. Batteries are charged and solenoid clicks, but it doesn't move. All connections look good. Could it be a bad solenoid? Thanks in advance....
Yes, I think solenoid. The same thing happened to mine. You can test it with a volt meter. Thanks! ua-cam.com/video/6MoL4SOZhbs/v-deo.html
My EZ-Go did this once. A neighbor who knows nothing about golf cart wiring looked into the battery box and within a few seconds located a disconnected wire. Once it was replaced, the cart was back in business. Hope this helps.
hey there Glen, good video, shows me alot regarding my cart thats new to me, I just dont know what year my cart is? looks very similar as yours, what year is your cart?
I'm not sure either but I think it's early 90s. They made that body style from 79-94. Thanks for watching!
@@GlennConnerthank you Sir, atleast I have a general idea.
This video saved me a bunch of hassle re wiring my 88 marathon thanks a bunch
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
M-r Glenn, what can be reason that electric 36 volts EZ-GO TXT 1984 sparks on moving contact on 1-st speed? Thank you in advance.
Possibly the contacts are to far apart. I think they should touch. Thanks for watching!
Very Thankful for you and I hope you help me to understand an old electric golf club car it’s motor is DC separate excited 4kw 48v the control circuite 5 selniodes 1 to connect the positive battery to the field wdg terminal the another terminal connected to the negative terminal of the battery .The rest 4 seolinoide are for forward and reverse using the armature terminals The problem for me is ther is on stsarting resistor (losted)the box of it cntain only a microswitsh activated only at a position the accelerator is free Can you help me to repair this car .Thank you very much
I don't understand what issue you are having.
Thank you so much and iam sorry for my poor language .My problem is an electric golf cart the control circuit is damaged I want to rewind the motor control agine The motor nameplate data is 4KW. 48V Dc. Rotor Current 110 A Field Current 10A Rated Speed 2500rpm Ins.ClassH. IP20. 04/10/08 Chinese. The rest of the controls elements in the car is 5 selonids .so I ask you A suitable wiring diagram fit for the motor data to repair this faulted car .Thanks
I'm sorry but I'm not educated on the internal components of the motors or how to go about rewinding one.
Good job explaining, but it is over my head. 🤯
Did you fix any problems you had? A good wiring diagram is what helped me put my EZ-Go back in service.
I have a 1992 ez-go 36v converted to 12v. The batteries are bad so going with 3 12v lithium batteries 100ah. Does anyone know if the stock motor can handle the surge/load of lithium batteries? Thanks
I have the same cart , they’re kinda rare online at least. I can’t seem to make mine faster even with a new motor. Mechanic tells me theirs nothing I can. Do . Any tips to make it faster, I’m willing to spend money
How fast do you want to go? He's probably right. I'm not sure if you can change the gears in the differential but you can put taller tires on it. But you'll also loose some power.
Excellent 👍🏾
Where did you get the fresh wires mine are burned
I made mine but you can order them from ebay.
I need help 😫 please. I have a 36 volt ezgo 110, older one like a 1982. We replaced the batterys and now the cart moved with the key off. We don't know why.
🤔 Sounds like a switch issue, or the small wire from the solenoid got removed from the switch and added to a battery.
Thank you 😊
What is that copper terminal block called I can’t find a new one
Resistor
@@GlennConner thank you
Ok
Excellent explanation.
Hey Glen, nice video.
I'm trying to get my 1986 1/2 EZGO to operate without straight wiring the new solenoid like I did a cheap one.
The guy before me (I've seen it done like this in a video) had the micro switch beside the solenoid (at the "sweeper") wired from the hot side of battery at drivers seat to the right side of that micro switch then the left side of switch going to the small solenoid terminal ...then, had the key switch wire going to the small left side terminal (where you have the black wire going to ground).
That is the only thing different on yours besides me having a resistor and diode attached to the solenoid.
Now I'm wondering if that is my issue.
I have tested the motor and batteries and all is good there.
I might run the wiring like you have it because the way it is now is sparking at the board assembly where the forward/reverse connects to the wiring.
Yeah, I would start there.
@@GlennConner 👍 I'll let you know when I get to it
Awesome video very informative!
Thanks
Do you still have your cart? I have the same setup but my Ignition is different one lead goes straight to the cylanoid does yours go to the positive than to the cylnoid ?
My switch has one lead going to battery positive and then the other side has two wires coming out and going to the two micro switches on the forward/reverse switch. Hope this helps.
Very useful. Thank you for posting this video.
Glad it helped!
I just purchased a 1991 ezgo 36v yesterday. It goes slow in forward and fast in reverse. Any ideas what's wrong?
Does it have a speed controller or resistor coils?
@@GlennConner i have no idea. I'm just learning what everything is. This is my first golf cart.
I'm just guessing but I think it might have a speed controller and that might be the problem.
@@GlennConner thanks. I will check into that.
there was another guy who had to swap his s1 and s2 and it helped the speed issue. not sure why.
We have a older golf cart 3batteries why is it that the last battery the positive is connected to the negative?
I'm not sure what's going on but typically golf carts are wired in series, which means positive to negative. So starting with the first battery you will come off of the negative post to the positive post on the next battery and so on until you get to the last battery and that battery would be connected negative to ground. I assume you have a 36 volt golf cart that has three 12 volt batteries.
Still using the Vexilar SP200 sonar? Pros vs Cons please?
I haven't used it in a while, but it was ok it's definitely nothing fancy. It will do the basics like water depth and temperature and it'll mark fish but who knows how accurate it is. If you use it long it'll pull the battery down on your phone. I basically just needed a depth finder so it served that purpose. Hope this helps.
@@GlennConner Ok great thanks for the reply. My son has extra battery packs for his phone. Would you consider passing it along for another person to use it for a while and do a review on it and pass it on again? Understand if not but if ya don't use it anymore would ya want to sell it?
Well, I'm currently in the market for a boat so I guess I'll hang on to it for awhile just in case what I buy doesn't have one.
Thanks for the video. Wish i watched it before i went with a wire diagram online (burnt a lead in my motor). Any chance you can tell me the leads on you motor. From the video the first one closest to the front looked like F something. My post placement is different. It is a rear facing motor. So placement of F1, F2, A1, and A2 please. Hate to ask, but it will really help.
Starting at the front on my motor the first post is s1 then a2 then s2 then a1 is at the back.
Hey I just wanted to say thank you. I got a cart about 4 months ago and they said that it had not run sense they got it. Have bought a lot of parts for it. Even had a golf cart guru. To work on it with no results. Watched your video and it is running now. In one day. Thanks. I wish that the other people putting out videos would be more like you.
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful.
Glenn, John here again. I want to be crystal clear about the wires that hook up to the Solenoid. Can you verify that the two cables that run from the large post at the rear end of the Solenoid (the post pointing toward the rear of your cart) is labeled "BAT" on the Solenoid. That large post is labeled BAT on mine and has a small arrow pointing to this large post.
I ask this because my Solenoid sits flat in the compartment while yours is sitting upright. So there's a chance I have my Solenoid turned around in relation to yours. I have a new White Rodgers Solenoid, if that helps at all. Of course, I have to consider where the wires to the small posts on the Solenoid go as well. I could have them backwards. Thank you in advance for any help.
Omg...
Amazing!!! I have a melex wired the same way!!! 3.. 12v is smart!! My 6v are 170$ each... You could run 12v parell series for longer run time..
where did you get the wheels
Harbor Freight, but I don't think they sell them anymore. They are trailer tires and wheels.
I have a 1987 EZGO Marathon. On your video, the wire coming from the solenoid outlet that is joined to the slow speed resistor wire (#1), you have it correct. The bottom bolt is not used. I just replaced this 5 bolt contact board and the accelerator speed sensor drag that is also connected to the outlet of the solenoid. There is a good video to show this if you ask UA-cam for an accelerator speed sensor replacement. My original problem was that in either forward or reverse, I would have to stomp on the accelerator until the cart would finally make a move. Now that I have new replacement parts, my accelerator works great in F and R. But now I have a new problem. In either choice, I begin rolling without even stepping on the accelerator. (This is because I am tied into resistor wire #1). And whether the key switch is on or off, my cart is "hot" in F or R. By "hot" I mean batteries are getting hot and stinking and you have to pull a battery wire off to stop it. Makes some sparks, yeah. I learned only in Neutral am I not producing current. This is totally unexpected. I had no problem with the FNR selector prior to changing out the accelerator contact board and speed sensor drag. Using your video I will back trace my small wires from the switch through the microswitches back to the solenoid. My heavy wires are all in their correct place, not sure about the tiny ones though. My focus is why the solenoid is being energized with the key switch on or off. If anyone has experienced this, let me know. I will be watching this posting. Thank you. Great video and all your battery connections are so clean.
Thanks, kinda sounds like a solenoid wire got put back in the wrong place. Be careful I'm sure you know that sulfer or rotten egg smell from batteries is a flammable gas. I hope you can get it figured out. Thanks for watching!
I am having the same exact issues, moves when put into forward and reverse and my pedal is not working. Key on or off doesn't shut anything off. I just got the cart so I don't know any history on it. Got it as is. Did you get yours figured out?
@@supastang11784 What fixed my problem with the unexpected "hot" situation was replacing the solenoid. That was not my original problem, but it surfaced anyway. Unknowingly my bad solenoid was energized, so in Neutral l was safe. But selecting F or R just made the cart move. Someone replied they purchased a 36 volt solenoid from O'REILLY'S for $36. I paid $22 from Amazon. Replacing the drag contact on the accelerator pedal linkage and the fiberglass contact board with the 5 brass bolts fixed my original problem. Good luck
Wiring harness
how do we get a full charge on these? 12v slow charge? 6v charger will only charge these half
half
If you use the charger that came with the cart, it will be a 36 volt charger so no matter what combination of batteries you use you will still be charging 36 volts. As long as you have them wired in series, which is positive to negative.
thanks
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Do these go in neutral if so how mines not need help
They are not supposed to move in neutral.
Mine moves as soon as i put it in gear. Any idea whats causing that?
@@mjonesyjr My EZ-Go did the same. The accelerator pedal rod was too long. I took off the rod, bent it a bit to make it shorter (sort of like a bow) put it back on and that fixed the problem.
Did your solenoid have a diode between the smaller terminals? If so what size was it? My cart goes as soon as i put it in gear and im trying to figure out why. Any thoughts? I have a schematic that shows some additional wires but if I figure mine out Ill let you know. Your video game me some good starting points.
I don't think it has a diode. Sounds like it might have a cable hooked to the bottom post on the sweeper switch for the throttle pedal.
Spit it out already!!!
This is the best and most informative video on golf cart wiring I've ever seen. Thank you so very much. You made most everything fun to watch. Question: Could you explain the wiring of the Micro Switch near the Solenoid a bit more please? My Micro Switch goes to the Buzzer and another terminal goes to the Solenoid.. I want to get rid of the Buzzer,. Can I also get rid of this Micro Switch near the Solenoid?
Thank you for any help. I'll be watching you for more interesting videos.
Stay safe. Take care. And Happy New Year to you and yours.
johnt
Yes, I'll look at mine but I think you can just unhook the micro switch for the buzzer. Thanks for watching!
@@GlennConner Ok, I'll try that. The Buzzer never worked anyway. I like your backup light idea. I will probably try it with a single headlight for my vintage EZ-Go...I think it's an early 70's model but I'm not sure. Did all the EZ-Go carts after '71 go gas, or did they still make the electric models, too? Even though your cart looks very new, the battery compartment looks very similar to mine, which made your video that much more interesting and informative. What wiring diagram did you use to wire your cart? I've got a few I look at, but none are a perfect match.
Once again, thanks for your excellent video.
Take care and stay safe.
Best to you and yours,
johnt
I don't think they ever stopped making electric golf carts. Like you I couldn't find a useful wiring diagram, that's what inspired the video. If I can help with anything let me know. Thanks
@@GlennConner Ok, thanks. It'll be interesting to see if it runs without that Micro Switch. I'll let you know. If it does, I'll be amazed. I've let this cart sit on my back patio for over a year, thinking I had a big job to do to rewire that solenoid and switch. Once going, however, it'll be great fun. I've taken all the excess steel off this EZ-Go, so it's relatively light weight and goes almost too fast due to the lose steering. Have you got any ideas on how to tighten up the steering? Right now mine is sloppy and likes to drift right and left. : )
@@GetRealBaby I have a video on replacing the solenoid on my channel. As far as the steering goes I would check all of the tie rods and the pitman arm where it connects to the steering gear box. If all of that is tight I would check the toe in, it should be toed in on the front of the tire by about an eighth of an inch. Then the steering box might need adjusting. I would have to look at mine to see how that adjustment works. Hope this helps!