Great video. No bullshit or pretend drama. Lot's of info with you showing us what you are doing along with explanations on why. And thanks for not starting the video with "hey, what's up".
I used to run a draw through turbo with a single DCOE 40 WEBER Rayjay Tubro with driver adjust boost 1st gen Turbonetics Deltagate, 1.6 Ford Kent engine in MK1 Fiesta 1580lbs made easy into the 200 hp range on 97 Regal Purple Leaded (when they still had it), would peg the boost gauge 30psi, but on regular pump unleaded 93 20-25psi when the air temps were down usually kept it around 15-18psi. The manifold for the carb had coolant flowing through it to keep it from icing up, it's probably a good idea to add a little heat exchanger on the intake on the bug, wouldn't doubt that intake ices up a little reason why it's asking to be lean after running throttle open. You can use hot oil with a air cooled motor to heat the intake, it will atomize the fuel that is pooling at the elbow.
How can I contact or reach you I'm wondering what kind of carburetor EFI system do I use on a 1973 Volkswagen Beetle 2180 turbocharged right now I'm running a 4-barrel 460 and I want to convert to EFI I was told the super sniper EFI is the one to go with
Really nice problem solving. Cool. Do you know if that 90 degree bend towards the turbo is what is causing issues? Are draw through turbo setups a pain to get right. Thanks for the video!
Draw through is definitely not ideal and would be better to have individual port injection in the intake if possible. Turbos are not designed to flow fuel lol. It’s very delayed and the elbow holds fuel. Thanks for watching
Do you know which sniper kit he was using? I have been thinking about doing something very similar for my Iron Duke S10. If I could get it into the 130~150HP range I would be thrilled.
Hmm, I saw about 105Hp on a 1776 with a 110 cam on dual 40 Dells and stock port 041 heads back in 1992, I feel like you should be making more hp. Of course, your torque curve is probably nice and fat. Probably just need a better port job on the heads. Talk to Pat Downs at CB.
What altitude are you at? A lot of places in Colorado - you only begin with 11.5 psi atmospheric pressure. 6 pounds of boost is only going to give you around 17 psi in the manifold vs 14.7 at sea level for NA, or over 20 psi for the same boost level (and a lower pressure ratio so you are more efficient - less charge heating for more power too).
Yep, that 1835 turbo is probably near stock internally, i'm getting the same 126hp from my 1300 twinport on dual 44 Dells although being non turbo my torque is only 97lb/ft
All depends on how the car come in and how car the base tables are off if they are close I like to use what the learn tables already have in them and start working on idle and throttle response off idle. Then I start working my up between manually changing areas of the fuel table and the learn table to start dialing everything in.
@@BuildTuneRace Thanks for the response! I've worked with a number of the Sniper/Terminator/HP setups as well as FITech etc on the engine dyno however it's more of getting a solid base WOT setup and reasonable idle using mostly target numbers etc. The base setups are pretty decent overall for getting the engine up and running. I recently did my first Sniper with it's internal timing control and I must say the timing map once you look at it on the laptop is pretty bad. I had to make my own timing ramp for WOT to prevent detonation at the starting point of my pulls, but now you can't make timing changes using the handheld, so I had to make a best guess at timing in the cruise zone and hope for the best. (out of town customer)
Was that a standard sniper or super sniper? For draw through boost You need a super sniper I'm pretty sure. It needs to read manifold pressure not vacuum at the base of throttle body
@@danieljames5875 yea, I installed a supper sniper with intentions of super charging never did get that far, but the instructions said if your running a blow through turbo the port on the base of the throttle body will see a positive pressure and respond accordingly But if the throttle body is sitting on top of a supper charger the base is reading vacuum but under the supper charger (manifold) is positive and the unit gets confused. The instructions state if your running a supper charger you need to remove the 1/8"npt plug from the side of the throttle body and replace it into the vacuum port on the bottom of throttle body and stake it so it doesn't back off and get sucked into the engine also screw a 1/8" npt pressure port in the side and attach it to the manifold So it see boost instead of vacuum ... also in the setup wizard it wants to know if its turbo or blown. Its a deep rabbit hole LOL , I no longer have it (74 ' Triumph Spitfire) but WOW I swear by Holley EFI MAP is manifold air pressure either negative (vacuum) or positive (boost) MAF is mass air flow and is used for throttle body fuel injection but they dont have one on single port injection
@@danieljames5875 yea i can see how thatll get out of hand really quick. Just wanted to see if he does remote tuning. Sometimes its hard to find people honestly.
Great video. No bullshit or pretend drama. Lot's of info with you showing us what you are doing along with explanations on why. And thanks for not starting the video with "hey, what's up".
He was hoping for 90 hp and got 127 hp bet he was happy to see that
I’d be happy with that at 5-6 pounds of boost mine makes 8psi driving around I’ve never had it on the dyno
I used to run a draw through turbo with a single DCOE 40 WEBER Rayjay Tubro with driver adjust boost 1st gen Turbonetics Deltagate, 1.6 Ford Kent engine in MK1 Fiesta 1580lbs made easy into the 200 hp range on 97 Regal Purple Leaded (when they still had it), would peg the boost gauge 30psi, but on regular pump unleaded 93 20-25psi when the air temps were down usually kept it around 15-18psi. The manifold for the carb had coolant flowing through it to keep it from icing up, it's probably a good idea to add a little heat exchanger on the intake on the bug, wouldn't doubt that intake ices up a little reason why it's asking to be lean after running throttle open. You can use hot oil with a air cooled motor to heat the intake, it will atomize the fuel that is pooling at the elbow.
i love turbos on bugs
Love the dyno info.
Thanks for watching!
That’s a lot of power for a bug
I've wondered about that style of turbski for my boat.
Great job. That's a great looking bug👍👍🇨🇱
What distributor or ignition system did it end up with.
If you have this on a stock engine and transfer it to a more powerful engine, will it automatically adjust?
What afr ? Did you put to keep it cool ? I have Fitech with 2 oil coolers and still running at 205 temps
I'm running a Sniper 2300 on my NA 2180cc making 160hp. you know you can get the Sniper to control your timing using the VW Vanagon Distributor.
What keeps the carb from freesing
What turbo?
How can I contact or reach you I'm wondering what kind of carburetor EFI system do I use on a 1973 Volkswagen Beetle 2180 turbocharged right now I'm running a 4-barrel 460 and I want to convert to EFI I was told the super sniper EFI is the one to go with
I have a 2387 vw type 1 draw through setup I was wondering where did you guys run the coolant temp sensor cause it’s oil cooled
Goes to the cilinder head where cilinder# 3 or 4 are located 👍
Really nice problem solving. Cool.
Do you know if that 90 degree bend towards the turbo is what is causing issues? Are draw through turbo setups a pain to get right.
Thanks for the video!
Draw through is definitely not ideal and would be better to have individual port injection in the intake if possible. Turbos are not designed to flow fuel lol. It’s very delayed and the elbow holds fuel. Thanks for watching
That makes a lot of sense. Thank you
Do you know which sniper kit he was using? I have been thinking about doing something very similar for my Iron Duke S10. If I could get it into the 130~150HP range I would be thrilled.
FYI if your going to boost make sure to get the "SUPER" SNIPER
Im doing a blowthrough bug with a Subaru engine on carb debating this setup. Any advice?
Just actually swap in the Subaru harness and ECU , the port injection is much better
Hmm, I saw about 105Hp on a 1776 with a 110 cam on dual 40 Dells and stock port 041 heads back in 1992, I feel like you should be making more hp. Of course, your torque curve is probably nice and fat. Probably just need a better port job on the heads. Talk to Pat Downs at CB.
What altitude are you at?
A lot of places in Colorado - you only begin with 11.5 psi atmospheric pressure. 6 pounds of boost is only going to give you around 17 psi in the manifold vs 14.7 at sea level for NA, or over 20 psi for the same boost level (and a lower pressure ratio so you are more efficient - less charge heating for more power too).
Yep, that 1835 turbo is probably near stock internally, i'm getting the same 126hp from my 1300 twinport on dual 44 Dells although being non turbo my torque is only 97lb/ft
So do you start by smoothing the run tables out then adjust from there?
All depends on how the car come in and how car the base tables are off if they are close I like to use what the learn tables already have in them and start working on idle and throttle response off idle. Then I start working my up between manually changing areas of the fuel table and the learn table to start dialing everything in.
@@BuildTuneRace Thanks for the response! I've worked with a number of the Sniper/Terminator/HP setups as well as FITech etc on the engine dyno however it's more of getting a solid base WOT setup and reasonable idle using mostly target numbers etc. The base setups are pretty decent overall for getting the engine up and running.
I recently did my first Sniper with it's internal timing control and I must say the timing map once you look at it on the laptop is pretty bad. I had to make my own timing ramp for WOT to prevent detonation at the starting point of my pulls, but now you can't make timing changes using the handheld, so I had to make a best guess at timing in the cruise zone and hope for the best. (out of town customer)
@@BuildTuneRace So how much actual time does it take working on the tune not including dyno installation etc?
Was that a standard sniper or super sniper? For draw through boost
You need a super sniper I'm pretty sure. It needs to read manifold pressure not vacuum at the base of throttle body
This guy wants 20K subs, but cant even reply to questions in his comments....
Lol
@@danieljames5875 yea, I installed a supper sniper with intentions of super charging never did get that far, but the instructions said if your running a blow through turbo the port on the base of the throttle body will see a positive pressure and respond accordingly But if the throttle body is sitting on top of a supper charger the base is reading vacuum but under the supper charger (manifold) is positive and the unit gets confused. The instructions state if your running a supper charger you need to remove the 1/8"npt plug from the side of the throttle body and replace it into the vacuum port on the bottom of throttle body and stake it so it doesn't back off and get sucked into the engine also screw a 1/8" npt pressure port in the side and attach it to the manifold So it see boost instead of vacuum ... also in the setup wizard it wants to know if its turbo or blown. Its a deep rabbit hole LOL , I no longer have it (74 ' Triumph Spitfire) but WOW I swear by Holley EFI
MAP is manifold air pressure either negative (vacuum) or positive (boost) MAF is mass air flow and is used for throttle body fuel injection but they dont have one on single port injection
Where did you put the coolant temp sensor?
If I remember right be put it in the oil.
@@BuildTuneRace thanks,
Have you tuned any other holley sniper or variants of Holley efi?
@@danieljames5875 How can one reach him? Have a couple projects running the standard Holey sniper system with hyperspark ignition.
@@danieljames5875 yea i can see how thatll get out of hand really quick. Just wanted to see if he does remote tuning. Sometimes its hard to find people honestly.
Answer your comments, it will help your channel!
Is that Pueblo West?
It is!
@@BuildTuneRace I live in Westcliffe. I was pretty sure that was the Big R there.
Isn't it just cheaper to put a subaru engine?
Im obviously not a mechanic, but all ur setup looks expensive
Cool. But bla bla bla