Hello Vince. I have repaired many consoles with the same glitch. This fault also appears on super slim models. The 1.8v regulator is guilty here, which is constantly turned on because it supplies the bt module, so that the console can be turned on by the controller. First, the regulator burns (this small black system near the smd coil), which then burns the module (not always). You can replace this small regulator with for example ams1117 (more resistant). You should check before soldering a new bt module if there is 1.8v on the coil, otherwise you will burn the new module. This can be checked very simply by connecting the power supply only with a flexible cable without connecting the 12v line. Best regards from Poland, faucolt.
That's what I thought, that the always-on Bluetooth/Wi-Fi module could be the cause, (even though I'm not knowledgeable in electronics.but It interests me).
@@stevenbenson9976 I''ll gladly tell you that you're wrong. There is the HEN ps3xploit (not to be confused with old HAN), pretty close to a true CFW experience. This works on all models, including super slim.
One thing you might want to do is, if you get another module you can connect it with wires instead of conecing it directly to the MB, do the installation and take it out again. WDYT?
I love watching the progress you've made Vince. Youve become a confident and competent fixer of electronics and you have brilliant methods of deduction. Also you are so confident when soldering now you dont get phased at all anymore. Well done on finding the problem excellent video!
I've got a pile of 14 or 15 slims in my loft, as well as a few boxes full of the first Gen 4 USB models. I'll dig through them this week and see if I can find one with rev1 wifi card
I have a couple with rev1 wifi chip, if you still need one let me know Vince, I can ship across the pond buddy if so :) And to those looking for the 4usb ps3, I have 2 units and both are non functional. If you're interested, pm me please
I'm so proud of your soldering skills! You're a champ! I still think you should go back to that first switch you worked on and see about fixing it! How about if you put the card back on and remove the little chip? See if the ground goes away and just see if you can replace that chip?
Vince, When looking for a short circuit rather than using the continuity tester try setting your meter to a low ohms range. The closer you get to the short the lower the reading will be, so if the short is the opposite end of the board you may see 0.34 (for example) and as you test nearer the short you will get a lower reading. It works best with a 7.5 digit meter but it is worth a try.
After you've removed the ferrite bead and start taking measurements at 21:15, the bottom pad no longer shorts to ground. That tells you that the chip underneath is fine and there was no need to remove it.
My slim started with the green light then blank/no light issue after it was mailed to me (worked fine before). Now, there's no light. Just need clear understanding of diagnostics procedures. Power supply swap resulted in same issue
One thing to know about these newer consoles is the disc drives are married to the motherboard. If you have a bad disc drive you can swap out the mechanical parts out with another drive and use the board from the old drive with the mechanical parts of the new drive.
Great video! I had a similar issue on a PS4 where I had to change the bluetooth/wifi chip and at least on the PS4 and I assuming it is the same on the PS3 is that even though you have the controller wired up, it still uses the bluetooth protocol to initiate and sync which is dumb...because in safe mode it works fine since it only uses USB...again it is dumb. But at least that is one quick way to tell if the bluetooth module is faulty. But either way I really think you need to replace that chip and see the repair through :) I will paypal you the $ for the chip I must hear the triumphant "YES! It WORKS!!"
I know this is an old video, but I wanted to share my story in case it helps someone with my simple problem that turned into a bigger issue. I used this guide for troubleshooting. Long story short, I had no power after a repaste. I triple-checked all connections, tested the incoming power (120v), and checked the (5v) rails. Everything seemed normal: the motherboard, capacitors, and power supply all looked fine. Then, randomly, when I re-tested my power/eject input on the board with power being fed, I jumped my system on while I was reading a solder point with my meter lead. So I checked the power ribbon that feeds the power/eject bar to the board since it was the last variable. I found the pins snapped in half. I wasted half a day on such a simple fix. So check those ribbons!
Have you considered silver filled epoxy? Its apparently almost as good as leaded solder and doesn't require destructive heat to apply it either. I imagine there is all manners of thickness and viscosity available and I have used one called "wire glue" in reattaching quartz watch coil leads and securing new quartz circuit board smd caps to some success. I was told only gold based "glues" were acceptable but I think that isn't correct as the epoxy seals the metal thus corrosion unlikely regardless of the metals used.
Vince - You know what I love about you? It is the fact that you established it was a WIFI card fault. As a computer engineer I would just change that part and carry on, but not Vince.. You dig even further and try to isolate the chip that has failed and you would have changed the tiniest chip in order to get the machine running again. Well worked out though, at least you have a good board you can harvest parts from in the future - a valuable commodity.
a couple of days ago I accidently touched a ps2's power supply, got some of that juicy electric in my body and dropped the ps2. I'm glad that you are keeping your hands clear and keep reminding that :)
Hi Vince you need to recognize that sometimes not everything is a short to ground. Alot of things have a low resistance to ground in circuit and our meters show it being a short so when you pull the ic off you think the short has gone but then you might stick a new part on and it will do the same thing great video keep up the good work mate :)
A fair assumption to make when the 5v rail is not showing anything on the pcb and you are certain that the PSU is ok, than there is probably a short in the voltage rail that the PSU sensed and turned itself off.
Subscribed for using common sense. I've looked for many a video for PS3 workovers and you simply do it. No fuxing around with music or 20minute disassembly routines... Thank you. Just for being normal.
First of all buddy great video again! loving the content! Always when a complete dead system, check fuse on the power supply first... checking main big fuse first, then the small ones. usually the big ones die, so then check the motherboard over.. check current to the bridge rectifier .. then the resisters ... if all good and the fuse is dead, replace the fuse... then try power it up :) u can get lucky sometimes :)
I heard you can bypass the 8002F1F9 error by taking out the hard drive while the firmware is installing. You need to take it out in the percent that in usually fails. It is very timing dependent. I have not done this myself but I think is worth a shot.
Fascinating video, many thanks for your hard work and teaching the valuable lesson that some things can be beyond economic repair. Just a thought ... if you had some of that fine patching enamelled wire could you possibly patch the Wi-fi module free-floating as it were? And if successful bond it to the main board as a separate job?? 88 connections is a lot of work though. Just a thought.
Thanks for the fun video. Btw your vioce audio sounds alot better than the previous couple videos. It's still a bit fuzzy but not at such a noticable level.
Oh man, getting access to the battery at the motherboard seems to be even more complicated than I thought :/ I was under the impression that it wouldn't be necessary to open the metal shield on the motherboard but from this video it seems unavoidable and have to replace the thermal paste also.
I have recently purchased a proper bench power supply so hopefully I can try and use this technique in the future. I haven't done it before so I look forward to testing it out :-)
You need a thesis to be a bachelor these days? I always thought it was just avoid marriage and the thing happened all by itself... didn't know there was a qualification nowadays O.o
Vince just to you know, whitout the wi fi module the ps3 wont actualizes it self, because the software update tests for wi-fi modube before it stars, and return an error, and not goes on... you need to replace a module and in some cases the small chip in the other side of board(it is a 1,8 voltage regulator, it supply voltage for the wi fi module(wi-fi and bluetooth to be exact) and the problem occurs is a short circuit in marvell chip itself it burns and put the PSU in protection mode like you see.
Thanks for commenting on this. I have just released a revisit video on this PS3 but I didn't see these comments until after filming. Thanks for helping with it :-)
Thank you for your effort. I have a problem. There is no red light, although there is voltage reaching the start button, but it does not work. So I changed the start ruler, but the same problem. What should I check?
Hey Vince, thank you very much for your video, thanks to you i hape hoppe and i am repairing my own playstation, funny enough, it seems to have the same problem, so another one for the list...but thanks to your video, me, a noob in these things can understand and know what to doo, i just wished you would say what that gel is tha you use to remove the parts.
It couldn't be the winbond chip because it uses 1.8V on vcc. And the absolute maximum rating is 4.6V so 5V would kill it dead. There is somewhere a 1.8V voltage regulator that feeds power to that chip. Since the short was on the 5V rail there is something shorting out in the 5V (could be a voltage regulator inside the main chip or) it could be a simple voltage divider and one of the resistors is shorting.
My Mate VINCE in this video you referenced to you going to fix the other ps3 slim with the shutting off issue, did you have come to doing that vid? I sadly cannot find it on your channel, and I myself am having that exact issue with my ps3.
Re my earlier comment I got the chipquik flux in and it's actually quite crap and disappointing (maybe it's just designed for something specific). I recommend SRA #312 flux pen with the refill bottle if you can find it The chipquik flux leaves less residue but it dries out so quickly it's almost useless, and I've already nearly worn out the pen.
looking forward to the video, would start at 1V those modules can use anything between 1.2v and 3.3v always safer to start at a lower voltage for short circuit detection :-)
I have been trying to fix my wired earplugs tonight, probably your fault I can not just throw them away so could you have a go on some to see if you do a better job? They break every three days now so they are getting a bit short now!
The 2nd faulty ps3 has same problem like me (CECH-3001B) still have red light, turn on to green then completely off, no lights at all. Waiting for your fix, thanks!
i've made a comment right about 12 minutes ago only about this issue: your ps3 is... let it say just as simple as possible, a bricked one (CECH-2004B and CECH-2504B are Jailbreakable but the CECH-3004B that you have will 100% guaranteed getting bricked by trying to jailbreak it) and that's the reason for that error/issue with red, then on after pushing on-off, lighting green for a short while then turning off with no light chain that you got... sorry for those bad news
very entertaining vince... i am really enjoying all the content you upload and share with us on youtube.... im always looking to see if there is a new video from you...i always look forward to watching them... so thankyou for all the hard work you put into them and sharing them they are top draw 1st class entertainment........seasons greetings to you and your family........looking forword to your next video i cant wait..........kind regards....and thanks again vince........
thx sir for sharing just saved a super slim model after lightening storm exactely the same issue .but after removing wifi/bluetooth card remote no longer playing wirellesely ....
Someone may have already said this, but just a thought, what if you find a USB wifi \ BT module that has the same chipset and try running that ? Cheers !
Hey Vince, the next Slim video will be quite interesting with the fault of it shutting off after the green light, I have a system that does the same thing and I was never able to figure out what the fault was. It's not related to water or a failed PSU, and the system in question stopped working when someone had hit the top of it. Odds are that possibly one of the solder joints cracked. Perhaps the one you have was dropped at some point and had caused the fault. As for replacing the wifi chip on this PS3, it might be worth looking into a parts motherboard on eBay and find a matching board with severe damage (cracked board, already been used for parts, etc) and just yank the wifi chip off of it, would likely be cheaper than buying the chip on Aliexpress and would give you some more nice parts for other PS3 Slims.
So...a faulty Wi-Fi chip may brick the whole machine? Is that a common problem with PS3's? Mine's been unplugged from the wall socket for a couple of weeks and now it's completely dead.
Hi Vince....The telephone and ethernet videos mention your website where one could purchase some sockets etc... But, the link doesn't seem to work,,,Is your ebay shop open?
Vince, do you still have this unit? There's a custom firmware now which explicitly bypasses the BT/Wifi check. However, this PS3 is 3XXX, and only 2XXX models have the ability to install CFW on them this one is only HEN capable. :(
I have the same problem on my PS3 Super slim. In the beginning the Bluetooth and the Wifi wasn't working. But eventually (2 days later) i couldn't even get the red light.
For sure! My thoughts are that $20 is a small price to pay for good content! Many of his fixes are not about making money, why not pay a bit to appease the masses? lol. Of course it is his money, and can do as he chooses, but I was hoping for the full fix.
I tried to do this but all it comes up is a little grey screen within a black screen. There are absolutely no words at all and both of my controllers refused to turn on and connect to the PlayStation 3 at all even after I reset them. Even if I had a touch screen TV I wouldn't be able to go to any of the settings in safe mode to make it restore anything or reset anything or anything. There are no words that come up at all. I even tried changing where the HDMI was hooked up to the TV I tried to unplug it for a while the PlayStation I even tried unplugging HDMI for a little bit and plug it back in and see if it would try to reset that too no matter what I do there are no words at all. On the screen no thing like usually it'll say that it's shut down improperly or something when I unplug it for a while that didn't pop up either so there's no words on the screen there's no way for me to touch any words even if there were words because it won't hook up with anything I seriously need help because none of these have helped me I tried doing a hard and soft reset with the power buttons and stuff and unplugging and everything and no matter what I do nothing is working at all. It's very upsetting very frustrating I tried banging the PlayStation a little bit not too hard obviously I tried shaking it I tried blowing in every little hole trying to get a little bit of dust out if that was the problem there was an issue with that outlet at one point where for you plug it into the wall it was a little corroded around the metal that plugs into the wall and the PlayStation to turn the power on I clean that all up make sure it was dry and everything so it finally has power cuz for a little while he wouldn't turn on there was no red light or anything but thankfully it was just that issue the power cord I fixed it so now it's turning on but there is nothing and on top of all that where all these videos say that they're supposed to be beeps when the PS3 turns on and off and everything to make you go into safe mode and reset it and whatever there's no noises no beeps at all. I just held it down for as long as I could multiple times until it finally came up instead of being completely black screen to a black screen with a big gray screen in the middle so should be technically it is in safe mode so I can you know do all the steps that you can take to try to fix it but there's absolutely no words on the screen so basically no menu even if my PlayStation 3 controller would turn on and hook up to the PlayStation they would be useless because I cannot move anything I cannot touch anything there's nothing to touch there's no words I hope and pray that somebody knows what's wrong with it and they can help me I really need help I'm begging you please.
What would be the best place to learn more about circuit boards and other things needed to be known when repairing electronics? Any help is appreciated.
You could 100 percent use this without the Wi-Fi chip. Just hook it up to Ethernet. The ps3 never initialized the controller wirelessly in recovery mode You can update with a USB flash drive
also solve PS3 but fat. I had a picture and it worked. But the picture disappeared. I have short capacitors around the hdmi chip. I'll change the chip from the new one. I'm worried about it. Well your videos give me courage. Even though I've already killed a few consoles
Hi there vince! I have the similar problems with the other ps3 you've shown in the vid. When i press the power button it will have green light but after like 2-3 seconds it turns off by itself and then there's no red light. Last time it was working properly. Not until i copied a cd game to the hdd of ps3 and then after a few minutes it turns off and that's where the problem comes in. I wonder if it is the hdd on the ps3. Is there anything i could do to fix this? Please help :(
I had a ps3 which did exactly the same as this a years ago. It was mine from new and never had water damage but the wifi board died and it got stuck in an update loop. Can't remember what i did but it was crackered. Love the vid though
Nice bit of detective work =D Regards that wifi module - you could compare the components on top of it to the other one (you would need to remove its top shield first) - at least then you might be able to compare where those resistors and caps went. With regards to the solder balls, you can buy solder balls really cheap, and a generic set of BGA stencils that might work if you chose the right size. Well done finding it was the wireless module though!!! BTW - it was that drop that caused those components to move on the wireless PCB! =/ Easily done! I super hate working on things like that, so difficult! BGA is bad when its the only issue, but when there are components on the PCB that is BGA fitted it's hell lol
Right, he already has a few comparison modules to use. The question is: *are they the same?* Hopefully they’re similar enough to each other that he can do a proper one-to-one comparison.
Hi Vince merry Christmas how much do you charge to change a Nintendo switch port Vince l brought a new battery put it in and it came on plug charger in would not charge
g`day vince mate why not start a spare parts wishlist maybe some viewers might buy the parts for you to get closure on some jobs that you deem too costly to keep going with just a thought old mate and a subject for more re visit videos i do like those when you prove yourself right and you get a unit up and running again cheers james D
Hello Vince. I have repaired many consoles with the same glitch. This fault also appears on super slim models. The 1.8v regulator is guilty here, which is constantly turned on because it supplies the bt module, so that the console can be turned on by the controller. First, the regulator burns (this small black system near the smd coil), which then burns the module (not always). You can replace this small regulator with for example ams1117 (more resistant). You should check before soldering a new bt module if there is 1.8v on the coil, otherwise you will burn the new module. This can be checked very simply by connecting the power supply only with a flexible cable without connecting the 12v line. Best regards from Poland, faucolt.
Highlight this comment!
That's what I thought, that the always-on Bluetooth/Wi-Fi module could be the cause, (even though I'm not knowledgeable in electronics.but It interests me).
The homebrew wouldn't work on this because it's a 3k ps3.
@@stevenbenson9976 I''ll gladly tell you that you're wrong. There is the HEN ps3xploit (not to be confused with old HAN), pretty close to a true CFW experience. This works on all models, including super slim.
@@stevenbenson9976 true but that's HEN(Homebrew Enabler) I have a super slim model running 4.84 ps3HEN
The reason the WiFi and Bluetooth are powered first by 5v is so you can turn the PS3 on via the controller. Great video again Vince. Keep going!
One thing you might want to do is, if you get another module you can connect it with wires instead of conecing it directly to the MB, do the installation and take it out again. WDYT?
Good idea to bypass the heating issues for testing. Just use some enameled copper wire for jumpers.
Great idea. Thank you, I have used this in the revisit video :-)
I love watching the progress you've made Vince. Youve become a confident and competent fixer of electronics and you have brilliant methods of deduction. Also you are so confident when soldering now you dont get phased at all anymore. Well done on finding the problem excellent video!
Thanks Asherz1 :-)
I've got a pile of 14 or 15 slims in my loft, as well as a few boxes full of the first Gen 4 USB models. I'll dig through them this week and see if I can find one with rev1 wifi card
can i buy one one for like 10$
your a good man @sherm tronics
Nice one!
Yo could u send me 4 usb ps4 plz..?
I have a couple with rev1 wifi chip, if you still need one let me know Vince, I can ship across the pond buddy if so :) And to those looking for the 4usb ps3, I have 2 units and both are non functional. If you're interested, pm me please
I'm so proud of your soldering skills! You're a champ! I still think you should go back to that first switch you worked on and see about fixing it! How about if you put the card back on and remove the little chip? See if the ground goes away and just see if you can replace that chip?
Ha. That USB stick is the most British USB stick ever made.
My wife calls you the beep beep guy because all she ever hears from your videos are the beeps from you doing continuity testing.
You want to look out for the buzz buzz guy ;)
Will Proctor the buzz buzz guy is the beep beep guys evil brother.
beep beep who is there it is the car you mother father open the door
mohammed khaled LOL 😂
@@R-E-D-A-C-T-E-D. hey guess how told me this my Mechanic
Vince, When looking for a short circuit rather than using the continuity tester try setting your meter to a low ohms range. The closer you get to the short the lower the reading will be, so if the short is the opposite end of the board you may see 0.34 (for example) and as you test nearer the short you will get a lower reading. It works best with a 7.5 digit meter but it is worth a try.
You are turning into a GOD at what you do now when things break around my house I always think in my head I wonder if Vince can fix that
Don’t just think if Vince can fix it. In most cases, if Vince can fix it, *so can you!*
@@Operational117 your a awesome person
@@Operational117 Exactly the premise!
There's nothing better to watch at like 9PM than another video from Vince. It always interests me if he can get his faulty devices back to life ^^
My anxiety can’t cope with the fact that you didn’t buy the WiFi chip. I’ll bloody buy it for you, please fix it!
I was thinking the same. I want to buy it for him now :x .... We NEEEED to know if that fixes it. We NEEEEEEED IT.!!!!!11
After you've removed the ferrite bead and start taking measurements at 21:15, the bottom pad no longer shorts to ground. That tells you that the chip underneath is fine and there was no need to remove it.
It wasn't shorting anyway, it was the capacitor next to it.
Vince, do the right thing, buy the wifi/bluetooth module. Then do a revisit video on it. Waiting for it! Keep up the good work, love your videos.
Easiest way iin my opionion to remove wifi card is from underneath with hot air. Excellent job on fault finding. well done
My slim started with the green light then blank/no light issue after it was mailed to me (worked fine before). Now, there's no light. Just need clear understanding of diagnostics procedures. Power supply swap resulted in same issue
Mine powers on but only briefly, can I rule out that it's the power supply and something else? I've changed the thermal paste
One thing to know about these newer consoles is the disc drives are married to the motherboard. If you have a bad disc drive you can swap out the mechanical parts out with another drive and use the board from the old drive with the mechanical parts of the new drive.
Adding on to this, you can jailbreak it and remarry a totally different drive. It's not an easy task to jailbreak it though.
The combination of the misterious music in the begining and the text was very nice.
Great video! I had a similar issue on a PS4 where I had to change the bluetooth/wifi chip and at least on the PS4 and I assuming it is the same on the PS3 is that even though you have the controller wired up, it still uses the bluetooth protocol to initiate and sync which is dumb...because in safe mode it works fine since it only uses USB...again it is dumb. But at least that is one quick way to tell if the bluetooth module is faulty. But either way I really think you need to replace that chip and see the repair through :) I will paypal you the $ for the chip I must hear the triumphant "YES! It WORKS!!"
You can switch it to usb only (usually people do this for latency sake), I'm sure you know though
I know this is an old video, but I wanted to share my story in case it helps someone with my simple problem that turned into a bigger issue. I used this guide for troubleshooting. Long story short, I had no power after a repaste. I triple-checked all connections, tested the incoming power (120v), and checked the (5v) rails. Everything seemed normal: the motherboard, capacitors, and power supply all looked fine.
Then, randomly, when I re-tested my power/eject input on the board with power being fed, I jumped my system on while I was reading a solder point with my meter lead. So I checked the power ribbon that feeds the power/eject bar to the board since it was the last variable. I found the pins snapped in half. I wasted half a day on such a simple fix. So check those ribbons!
Have you considered silver filled epoxy? Its apparently almost as good as leaded solder and doesn't require destructive heat to apply it either. I imagine there is all manners of thickness and viscosity available and I have used one called "wire glue" in reattaching quartz watch coil leads and securing new quartz circuit board smd caps to some success. I was told only gold based "glues" were acceptable but I think that isn't correct as the epoxy seals the metal thus corrosion unlikely regardless of the metals used.
Vince - You know what I love about you? It is the fact that you established it was a WIFI card fault. As a computer engineer I would just change that part and carry on, but not Vince..
You dig even further and try to isolate the chip that has failed and you would have changed the tiniest chip in order to get the machine running again.
Well worked out though, at least you have a good board you can harvest parts from in the future - a valuable commodity.
a couple of days ago I accidently touched a ps2's power supply, got some of that juicy electric in my body and dropped the ps2. I'm glad that you are keeping your hands clear and keep reminding that :)
Onii-chan Kenobi oof lol
Hi Vince you need to recognize that sometimes not everything is a short to ground. Alot of things have a low resistance to ground in circuit and our meters show it being a short so when you pull the ic off you think the short has gone but then you might stick a new part on and it will do the same thing great video keep up the good work mate :)
A fair assumption to make when the 5v rail is not showing anything on the pcb and you are certain that the PSU is ok, than there is probably a short in the voltage rail that the PSU sensed and turned itself off.
Subscribed for using common sense. I've looked for many a video for PS3 workovers and you simply do it. No fuxing around with music or 20minute disassembly routines... Thank you. Just for being normal.
Man you're getting really skilled with all this soldering stuff, nice video
So sad you could not get it to play any games but congratulations on getting it to turn on. Is there going to be a revisit video on this coming?
The wifi board is a full module on its own PCB, like the Bluetooth module on the bush boombox
My slim ps3 is still working great. Had it since new and it's one of my favorite systems.
pretty sure someone on here will find a board with one of them on for you. looking forward to part 2 when that happens.
I just wana tell you, it is really enjoyable watching you figure these things out man. You really do a great great job.. Inspiring!!
First of all buddy great video again!
loving the content!
Always when a complete dead system, check fuse on the power supply first... checking main big fuse first, then the small ones. usually the big ones die, so then check the motherboard over.. check current to the bridge rectifier .. then the resisters ... if all good and the fuse is dead, replace the fuse... then try power it up :) u can get lucky sometimes :)
I heard you can bypass the 8002F1F9 error by taking out the hard drive while the firmware is installing. You need to take it out in the percent that in usually fails. It is very timing dependent. I have not done this myself but I think is worth a shot.
Fascinating video, many thanks for your hard work and teaching the valuable lesson that some things can be beyond economic repair. Just a thought ... if you had some of that fine patching enamelled wire could you possibly patch the Wi-fi module free-floating as it were? And if successful bond it to the main board as a separate job?? 88 connections is a lot of work though. Just a thought.
Thanks for the fun video. Btw your vioce audio sounds alot better than the previous couple videos. It's still a bit fuzzy but not at such a noticable level.
You might want to buy a power supply and insert a small voltage, with current limit into the board, and then look for your short with evaporating IPA.
Just saying, you made great progress through out your videos. Interesting to watch you try new things
Oh man, getting access to the battery at the motherboard seems to be even more complicated than I thought :/
I was under the impression that it wouldn't be necessary to open the metal shield on the motherboard but from this video it seems unavoidable and have to replace the thermal paste also.
instead of taking the module off. you should of used your bench power supply to inject 3 to 5v on the pad to see what component gets hot.
I have recently purchased a proper bench power supply so hopefully I can try and use this technique in the future. I haven't done it before so I look forward to testing it out :-)
That second console where’s the vid I have a console with that problem 😦 need to fix
Please I need that second video of the other console cause I have the same problem on one of my consoles and you vid would help me ❤️
Best entertainment while writing my bachelor thesis!
Marco Reisacher lol
You need a thesis to be a bachelor these days? I always thought it was just avoid marriage and the thing happened all by itself... didn't know there was a qualification nowadays O.o
Vince just to you know, whitout the wi fi module the ps3 wont actualizes it self, because the software update tests for wi-fi modube before it stars, and return an error, and not goes on... you need to replace a module and in some cases the small chip in the other side of board(it is a 1,8 voltage regulator, it supply voltage for the wi fi module(wi-fi and bluetooth to be exact) and the problem occurs is a short circuit in marvell chip itself it burns and put the PSU in protection mode like you see.
Thanks for commenting on this. I have just released a revisit video on this PS3 but I didn't see these comments until after filming. Thanks for helping with it :-)
Thank you for your effort. I have a problem. There is no red light, although there is voltage reaching the start button, but it does not work. So I changed the start ruler, but the same problem. What should I check?
Just purchased a 60gb ps3 CECH-A01. YLOD. Going to do the capacitor fix on it.
Best of luck!!
Hey Vince, thank you very much for your video, thanks to you i hape hoppe and i am repairing my own playstation, funny enough, it seems to have the same problem, so another one for the list...but thanks to your video, me, a noob in these things can understand and know what to doo, i just wished you would say what that gel is tha you use to remove the parts.
Awesome try as always thanks for making awesome videos love to watch you work and always learn something new!!
It couldn't be the winbond chip because it uses 1.8V on vcc. And the absolute maximum rating is 4.6V so 5V would kill it dead. There is somewhere a 1.8V voltage regulator that feeds power to that chip. Since the short was on the 5V rail there is something shorting out in the 5V (could be a voltage regulator inside the main chip or) it could be a simple voltage divider and one of the resistors is shorting.
Thanks Thomas, I just did a revisit on this and I measure voltages on the nearby chips :-)
VINCE
look on aliexpress they have the wifi complete for £10
My Mate VINCE in this video you referenced to you going to fix the other ps3 slim with the shutting off issue, did you have come to doing that vid? I sadly cannot find it on your channel, and I myself am having that exact issue with my ps3.
Re my earlier comment I got the chipquik flux in and it's actually quite crap and disappointing (maybe it's just designed for something specific). I recommend SRA #312 flux pen with the refill bottle if you can find it
The chipquik flux leaves less residue but it dries out so quickly it's almost useless, and I've already nearly worn out the pen.
Nice repair, would apply power to the wifi / bt card from power supply to see what gets hot
Thanks Anonymous, I have just purchased a bench power supply that can control both the voltage and amps. I look forward to experimenting with it :-)
looking forward to the video, would start at 1V those modules can use anything between 1.2v and 3.3v always safer to start at a lower voltage for short circuit detection :-)
I have been trying to fix my wired earplugs tonight, probably your fault I can not just throw them away so could you have a go on some to see if you do a better job? They break every three days now so they are getting a bit short now!
The 2nd faulty ps3 has same problem like me (CECH-3001B) still have red light, turn on to green then completely off, no lights at all.
Waiting for your fix, thanks!
i've made a comment right about 12 minutes ago only about this issue: your ps3 is... let it say just as simple as possible, a bricked one (CECH-2004B and CECH-2504B are Jailbreakable but the CECH-3004B that you have will 100% guaranteed getting bricked by trying to jailbreak it) and that's the reason for that error/issue with red, then on after pushing on-off, lighting green for a short while then turning off with no light chain that you got... sorry for those bad news
very entertaining vince... i am really enjoying all the content you upload and share with us on youtube.... im always looking to see if there is a new video from you...i always look forward to watching them... so thankyou for all the hard work you put into them and sharing them they are top draw 1st class entertainment........seasons greetings to you and your family........looking forword to your next video i cant wait..........kind regards....and thanks again vince........
thx sir for sharing just saved a super slim model after lightening storm exactely the same issue .but after removing wifi/bluetooth card remote no longer playing wirellesely ....
I have been experiencing similar Power issues, in my case it was the WIFE not the WIFI.
lol, nice dad joke. I really needed that, thank you.
Does SHE overheat if you leave her turned on for too long?😜
@@lemming9984 Yeah exactly, and her slot jams up like on the PS3 in the video.
oh my god lmao
When my one overheats she makes a hmmm hmmm noise
Someone may have already said this, but just a thought, what if you find a USB wifi \ BT module that has the same chipset and try running that ? Cheers !
You are so amazing ..! Keep it up your good work Vince , and MERRY CHRISTMAS to you and your FAMILY..
Hey Vince, the next Slim video will be quite interesting with the fault of it shutting off after the green light, I have a system that does the same thing and I was never able to figure out what the fault was. It's not related to water or a failed PSU, and the system in question stopped working when someone had hit the top of it. Odds are that possibly one of the solder joints cracked. Perhaps the one you have was dropped at some point and had caused the fault.
As for replacing the wifi chip on this PS3, it might be worth looking into a parts motherboard on eBay and find a matching board with severe damage (cracked board, already been used for parts, etc) and just yank the wifi chip off of it, would likely be cheaper than buying the chip on Aliexpress and would give you some more nice parts for other PS3 Slims.
Good idea I didnt think of that hopefully that happens down the line!
That's a fair solution. A donor board is always handy when repairing a known fault.
On the bright side, if you can't sort the next one, you could remove the wifi from that and try to put it on this one.
I just love your videos, so entertaining, relaxing and useful... Thanks for doing this! 🙏
Go get preheater Vince. Nice video as always
Great video, like your process of elimination very thorough. You should attempt a PS3 portable mini that would be great.
I have bought about 4-5 of these for 30 bucks each, they are great blu-ray players and media boxes in general.
So...a faulty Wi-Fi chip may brick the whole machine? Is that a common problem with PS3's?
Mine's been unplugged from the wall socket for a couple of weeks and now it's completely dead.
You’ve got the machine to post. It’s 100 percent worth it.
I think I have some boards of the PS3 Slim laying around. I will take them home with me and give them a look. Maybe they're the revision you need.
Hi Vince....The telephone and ethernet videos mention your website where one could purchase some sockets etc... But, the link doesn't seem to work,,,Is your ebay shop open?
Hi, sorry no is isn't. It may reopen again the future but I don't have any plans at present to reopen anytime soon :-)
Vince, do you still have this unit? There's a custom firmware now which explicitly bypasses the BT/Wifi check.
However, this PS3 is 3XXX, and only 2XXX models have the ability to install CFW on them this one is only HEN capable. :(
I have the same problem on my PS3 Super slim. In the beginning the Bluetooth and the Wifi wasn't working. But eventually (2 days later) i couldn't even get the red light.
Please buy that WiFi module and try it! You’re so close yet too far from fixing it!
For sure! My thoughts are that $20 is a small price to pay for good content! Many of his fixes are not about making money, why not pay a bit to appease the masses? lol. Of course it is his money, and can do as he chooses, but I was hoping for the full fix.
I tried to do this but all it comes up is a little grey screen within a black screen. There are absolutely no words at all and both of my controllers refused to turn on and connect to the PlayStation 3 at all even after I reset them. Even if I had a touch screen TV I wouldn't be able to go to any of the settings in safe mode to make it restore anything or reset anything or anything. There are no words that come up at all. I even tried changing where the HDMI was hooked up to the TV I tried to unplug it for a while the PlayStation I even tried unplugging HDMI for a little bit and plug it back in and see if it would try to reset that too no matter what I do there are no words at all. On the screen no thing like usually it'll say that it's shut down improperly or something when I unplug it for a while that didn't pop up either so there's no words on the screen there's no way for me to touch any words even if there were words because it won't hook up with anything I seriously need help because none of these have helped me I tried doing a hard and soft reset with the power buttons and stuff and unplugging and everything and no matter what I do nothing is working at all. It's very upsetting very frustrating I tried banging the PlayStation a little bit not too hard obviously I tried shaking it I tried blowing in every little hole trying to get a little bit of dust out if that was the problem there was an issue with that outlet at one point where for you plug it into the wall it was a little corroded around the metal that plugs into the wall and the PlayStation to turn the power on I clean that all up make sure it was dry and everything so it finally has power cuz for a little while he wouldn't turn on there was no red light or anything but thankfully it was just that issue the power cord I fixed it so now it's turning on but there is nothing and on top of all that where all these videos say that they're supposed to be beeps when the PS3 turns on and off and everything to make you go into safe mode and reset it and whatever there's no noises no beeps at all. I just held it down for as long as I could multiple times until it finally came up instead of being completely black screen to a black screen with a big gray screen in the middle so should be technically it is in safe mode so I can you know do all the steps that you can take to try to fix it but there's absolutely no words on the screen so basically no menu even if my PlayStation 3 controller would turn on and hook up to the PlayStation they would be useless because I cannot move anything I cannot touch anything there's nothing to touch there's no words I hope and pray that somebody knows what's wrong with it and they can help me I really need help I'm begging you please.
What would be the best place to learn more about circuit boards and other things needed to be known when repairing electronics? Any help is appreciated.
Another new My Mate Vince video, excellent!
Greetings Vince, well that's a nice fault finding investigation video with excellent results
poor Vince he hurt his middle finger on his right hand hope it gets better Vince
Thanks Cory :-)
I have the issue of the second PS3, did you ever do a vid on it?
Hey @My Mate VINCE . Could you make a video about a samsung wireless charging pads?
Hello. I have a question, what do you use to remove the capacitor @ 20:29? Also would you happen to know its capacitance?
Hey can you do a video on the ps3 super slim powering off after 2 seconds mines not working
You could 100 percent use this without the Wi-Fi chip. Just hook it up to Ethernet. The ps3 never initialized the controller wirelessly in recovery mode You can update with a USB flash drive
Another great video making me feel great :)
The firmware wont let you update the console, because on the firmware searching the wifi and bluetooth hardware, it will stuck uoubon a bootloop
also solve PS3 but fat. I had a picture and it worked. But the picture disappeared. I have short capacitors around the hdmi chip. I'll change the chip from the new one. I'm worried about it. Well your videos give me courage. Even though I've already killed a few consoles
You can probably flash the console to install custom firmware to install no Bluetooth/disc firmware
if you cant fix the other ps3 slim use wifi card from it
Hi there vince! I have the similar problems with the other ps3 you've shown in the vid. When i press the power button it will have green light but after like 2-3 seconds it turns off by itself and then there's no red light. Last time it was working properly. Not until i copied a cd game to the hdd of ps3 and then after a few minutes it turns off and that's where the problem comes in. I wonder if it is the hdd on the ps3. Is there anything i could do to fix this? Please help :(
Maybe you can run voltage injection with some power supply instead of popping out capacitor or chip 1 by 1.
Awesome video btw.
Sorry Sr. Do you have a diagram of the power supply? Because the problem that I have Is in the power supply
This video worked for me thanks bro
I had a ps3 which did exactly the same as this a years ago. It was mine from new and never had water damage but the wifi board died and it got stuck in an update loop. Can't remember what i did but it was crackered. Love the vid though
And that chip is a flash memory. It requires the data stored on it.
Nice bit of detective work =D Regards that wifi module - you could compare the components on top of it to the other one (you would need to remove its top shield first) - at least then you might be able to compare where those resistors and caps went. With regards to the solder balls, you can buy solder balls really cheap, and a generic set of BGA stencils that might work if you chose the right size. Well done finding it was the wireless module though!!! BTW - it was that drop that caused those components to move on the wireless PCB! =/ Easily done! I super hate working on things like that, so difficult! BGA is bad when its the only issue, but when there are components on the PCB that is BGA fitted it's hell lol
Right, he already has a few comparison modules to use. The question is: *are they the same?*
Hopefully they’re similar enough to each other that he can do a proper one-to-one comparison.
Thanks Chris :-)
Hey Vince! If i bored i like to watch your videos :)
Hi Vince merry Christmas how much do you charge to change a Nintendo switch port Vince l brought a new battery put it in and it came on plug charger in would not charge
You should try installing an older firmware. Maybe its trying to update the WiFi chip but failing because its not there
g`day vince mate why not start a spare parts wishlist maybe some viewers might buy the parts for you to get closure on some jobs that you deem too costly to keep going with just a thought old mate and a subject for more re visit videos i do like those when you prove yourself right and you get a unit up and running again
cheers
james D