Oh the voltage inside is frightful But the fire is so delightful And since we've no place to go Let it blow, let it blow, let it blow. Merry Xmas Vince and all.
One can still salvage a chip with a broken pin like that by carefully grinding back the plastic casing above the broken pin to expose a bit more metal to solder onto. The pins actually travel quite deep before reaching the bond wires.
There are many fault finding techniques in electronics and understanding how the signals pass from stage to stage helps. One thing that might help you in the future is a cheap oscilloscope to actually see the signals presented at the outout pins of a device. When you have a working unit and faulty unit it's easy to compare what's there and what's not. Don't be afraid to use a scope in fault finding it might take you a while to understand what you are doing but in the long run it will pay off trust me. Happy holidays to you and the viewers.
Perseverance paid off in the end, shame it was a long job for you mate. The little things are always the hardest to find but at least we all learnt something along the way. I hope you and the family have a great Christmas, all the best :)
I personally enjoy the full videos. I love the way you run through your investigations and diagnosis. I imagine you drive many people crazy with your methods but I always cheer you on. I wish you and your family a very merry Christmas.
"Let's see if it turns on" - 55 minutes remaining on the video . "Nope" Good job Vince, it's really nice to learn from the mistakes others, I love the process
Hi Vince, I have a PS4 with no display also.... but I was waiting a video from you to start fixing it!!! Now I feel like an expert because a saw all the issues you had!!! wish me luck!.
Oh my, I can’t believe you have had the same problem as I have got with a PS4 slim. I have been working on it now for nearly a week on and off. I have changed the chip twice with two new parts bought off eBay, I checked the hdmi port and found two shorting pins but that didn’t fix it and I have just had to put it to one side because I have spent so much time on it now it was driving me mad. I thank you for uploading this video because you have given me a way to go and given me more hope of fixing it again, I think I had better wait until Boxing Day though as I don’t think I would be very popular taking it apart tomorrow.
The Slim and Pro have a different pinout than the original models and a few of the pins are supposed to be shorted. The only one I can remember off of the top of my head is pin 3 (it's supposed to be ground) whereas the other models are not. You can also have faulty diodes or the IC is not replaced correctly (most likely). Your diodes should read around .6V in diode mode on the slim and OL the other way around with the exception of one diode on the IC side of the board which reads .6v and 1.45v the other way around. If they don't, you could have a bad diode in the circuit or the IC just isn't on right.
Johnathan Hartzell hey i have a Pro that i Replaced 3 Times the IC, 1 time The Port, and all EMI Filters and all Diodes too the Console gives no Signal and no Signal in recovery mode ._. Thx for the Information with the Diode V. I used a Broken Slim board for the Components for replace.
Loki Wenzel You need to use a multimeter to check the diode voltages in diode mode to pin down what’s wrong. Diodes are also orientation sensitive - if any of them are installed backwards the PS4 won’t work. The IC on this also takes a bit of practice to replace correctly. That was most often my mistake when I first started. Believe it or not they’re actually more resistant to heat than you may think. I thought I burned them and destroyed them a few times when I actually just didn’t prep the chip and install it correctly. Also I’ve seen many repair attempts on ports where the pins weren’t soldered on all the way. Only easy way to spot if the diodes are on backwards, loose hdmi port pins, or suspect joints is with a good microscope. Or else you’re working blind.
Johnathan Hartzell yeah that i know about siode orientation they all Right in Place. I check later the Board again and if i Underatand it right. The First Diode behind the HDMI port is around 6v and the others at 1,45v ?
At the last filter change at 56.49 I noticed a short circuit on the filter. I wanted to scream, Vince, Vince you got a short circuit there! Then I realized it wasn't a live broadcast and even if you didn't hear me. You're still making great videos. At this point I realize that I wouldn't destroy PS3 if I thought about and dedicated HDMI filters. You teach me to understand everything you fix. It would be very helpful in my life if I could consult someone more experienced on various repairs. I, too, like some fans here, wish you a peaceful Christmas holiday in your family circle.
Great work!! Could absolutely hear the release of tension in your voice when that PS4 screen came on. Once again great video, i love these as they mirror kind of what i do when i repair a console. trial and error. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
I seriously felt your frustration Vince. Great job on the the fix, you learnt something new so that is always a bonus plus you taught some of us something to :)
Looks like a combination of bad coils ,missing capacitor, and broken lead on the HDMI IC. I also notice a resistor is missing. Congrats on getting it up and running.
Yes, I thought you would have stopped for Christmas, but thankfully I now have something to watch whilst fixing a PC. Am I the only one that watches other (unrelated) fixing videos whilst working myself? Kinda like having the radio on in the background but not.
I am often sat here fixing stuff mainly watches and I watch Vince here or Mike from My Retro Watches doing their fixy thing, am at the moment trying to prototype my karaoke pre-amp timegrapher DIY kit which I am building so I can listen to the beat and amplitude of watches but without the £150 price tag.
Well done Vince, a miracle just in time for Christmas! I must say your never give up attitude never ceases to amaze me, I wish I had so much patience, we can all learn something from you. Hope you and your family have a Merry Christmas, you have earned it mate :)
Don't clean the solder with wick, just apply more flux, clean the iron tip and touch the pins. It will remove just the right amount of solder. And you need the knife tip if you want to solder a chip with hot iron. It is very good at dragging solder and fixing bridges.
Those choke-filters are very sensitive to direct heat, as you noticed it's just 2 coils and when you heat it for a long time it melts insulation coating and short lines out.
Oh, and the lid on an SMT inductor isn't to protect it- it's so that the suction tip on a pick-and-place machine can pick it up. It needs a flat top to the parts. That's why you sometimes see little pieces of tape and such on top of SMT parts that are weird shapes.
Wow, just wow, the amount of dedication to fixing this thing was awesome, by the end of the first day I would have been out the back of the office, submitting the thing to some serious wrath, congrats mate, you have made the first hour of putting things in envelopes today whizz by :)
Great perseverance , Vince, but you really need a scope for audio, video, RF and digital work. I think it was around 1970 when I bought my first scope. Didn't you say you had just bought one?
Sorry the drag soldering of the QFP didn't work out for you :/ I would suggest if you're going to try it again, you really only need to use the tiniest amount of solder, and you want to keep your iron away from the package just where the very end of the lead touches the pad--In general, heating the pad is more important than heating the lead. Start at one end and try to spread the solder you start with as far down the row as you can. If you end up with bridges, you can usually clean your iron tip off and just grab the extra solder with it (as long as there's enough flux present). I've found if you have a chisel tip or similar you can often just add flux and place the edge of the tip down at the very outer edge of the pad and the solder will be drawn to it, often un-bridging in the process. You should not need a big tip (even the very small ones should be fine), but you should use a LOT of flux and keep reapplying flux if it starts to give you trouble (also helps if you have flux on the pads already before you put the chip down, and clean off any flux that's already been heated first as it doesn't actually do the business). I find the "knife" style tips to be great for it but a chisel tip works as well. The hoof-type tip you're using would not be my first choice. Given the amount of flux I use when doing this, I prefer liquid from a pen to the gel type as it makes cleanup easier. One extra trick is if you do it as I suggest, it may not be obvious visually whether the pads are actually connected or not. What I do is use sharp tweezers or a fine multimeter probe to try and wiggle the lead. If it doesn't move, you can be confident it's soldered in place. Since there are so many leads the strength of the individual solder joints doesn't matter as much as it would if there were fewer leads. *edit: looks like you actually did that in the video, leaving it in for the benefit of others*
bravo é la prima volta che seguo un tuo video... sono stato tutto il tempo incollato a vedere la tua diagnosi alla fine credevo che dal nervoso la buttavi via dalla finestra... ed invece se stato persistente ed hai raggiunto l'obiettivo. Grande . Davvero davvero Bravo .
I think we've all been there Vince. I was surprised not to see it being fixed with a 10kg hammer long before you eventually got it fixed! Well done dude!
Merry Christmas to you and your family from Kenosha, WI. What a great find it was to stumble across your channel many months ago. I'd almost given up believing there were any patient, intelligent human beings left. :D
Quick tip: for soldering those chips, if you bridge 2 pins in one corner, you can then add flux to it, and "grab solder" it easily, by moving the tip across the pins, grabbing the solder across them, if thermal dissipation is too high, just grab solder slower.
The numbers in SMD parts are sizes in fractions of an inch- 0603 means 0.06" by 0.03". The next size down from 0603 is 0402, and then the next size down is 0201.
It can be tempting to drag the solder braid/wick across rows of pads like that because it can be so much easier and *usually* it works just fine. However, the heat weakens the bond between the copper and the board so when you're dragging sideways on them there's a big risk of moving the pad out of position or even just ripping it off. The safe way to do it is to dab rather than drag. It requires patience and maybe more flux but it's better than a damaged pcb.
Hi Vince, could you tell me if all those capacitors and the black resistor are needed at all for the console to work? Are they all 10 nf? And what about the ohm value for the resistor? Is it important to respect the sizes too (0603 or 0402)? Thanks! Great video and, above all, great guy with a great patience!👍
21:32 use the blade and scrape the chip encapsulation around the pin you could have solder a wire to the chip, 27:59 you could use the solder mask to keep the wire in place before soldering the chip on the board.
I come to say thank you about finding this EMI filter issue. I faced some similar situation when fixing a PS3. Although it's a PS3 the HDMI sub circuit remains about the same. In my case the EMI filter doesn't have continuity on HDMI pin 1, which makes the display very hard to show image, though sometimes I can make it work by force resetting PS3. After replacing the EMI filter, the image came very quickly after powering up.
Fantastic, pleased you got to the bottom of this one!!! Regards resoldering that IC, not all fluxes are the same! That's the kind of IC I would use Chip quik flux with - it helps avoid bridges. I find other fluxes just dont do the same job! With regards to that missing pin, you could dremel (carefully) into the top of the IC edge there to expose that single pin. It's fiddly though and far easier to swap out for a spare as you did =D Hope you are having a good Christmas!!
Thanks Chris, I think I threw out that chip, I wish I had grinded back the corner as I would have liked to reuse that one. At least I will know that for next time. Nice little tip as usual. Enjoy the holidays :-)
Super nice fix! Still, I was shouting "use fluuuuux" so often ;) Also: clean those tips, and maybe get yourself a blade tip, like a hakko shape K. Would have helped a lot on the chip
Just going to throw this out there. The filters that you were replacing in the beginning are essentially fuses. They can be replaced by just using a wire as a 0ohm wire or fuse. They are used to clean the video signal though so be aware that this may produce a slightly worse picture, but it will work.
Amazing Vince ,Very Well Done really enjoyed that video. Tell me this, do you have a link to that little HDMI tester you have that plugs into the port, think i could be doing with one of them. Mick 👍🍻
Lately I have fixed a PS4 (which I don’t do as regularly as Vince). The HDMI port was borked. So just changing this. The point is: It worked fine on 1080p, but when I switched to 720P or 1080i as a test, the picture was gone. Like snowy pixels only, no real image. 480p worked well, like 1080p. I was thinking that some filter might be the issue, but when I reappraoched the device. I just had some bridge on the HDMI port. Bottom line: Working 1080p doesn’t mean that everything is 100% ok. Merry Christmas!
Wow, what a soul sucker! How you managed to refrain from throwing it through a window is beyond me. Awesome job on that micro jumper. I actually noticed that missing capacitor at the start (he'll get to that), but totally forgot about it as you overcame the other hurdles. Tenacity, thy name is Vince.
59:19 you can clearly see a bridge on them two pads of the top most filter. There's a huge blob of solder between them. You might be safer picking them filters from the edges.
@56:51 you can see, Vince, that your filter bridged when you added your lead solder. ive been yelling at my screen for 10 mins! lol sorry I couldn't help ya man, but glad you found it in the end. cheers man!
My guess is that it will still work if you just jump those filters. They are common mode chokes for your digital connection, but they don't matter if you use a good HDMI cable.
You need to minimise the risk of thermal stress to components. If you are salvaging parts from donor boards just remove all the parts in one hit rather than having to heat cycle them. Will also be a good way to build up a parts inventory if you have space to store them. Always use flux for removing and refitting components. Karl.
Great job there it may have to long to solve but you now know what to check for if you get this problem in the future love your videos please keep up the good work and merry Xmas and happy new year
58:48 "0603" means that this capacitor's size is 0.06 х 0.03 inch (or 1608 metric 1.6 x 0.8mm). The smaller one looks about two times smaller too me, so 0402 imperial/1005 metric. I don't think it is 0201/0603.
If U Stop the Video at #56:54 i noticed the first one makes a Connection on the Pads. At this time i was hoping that it doesnt matter for the result :D
Another good video, the effort and time you put in has helped me fix things and saved me hours and hours, I am always amazed how those tiny components get made in the first place 👍
When you say a smaller tip won't deliver enough heat is it a guess or from experience? A small tip should be fine for those small solder joints unless they're attached to a big thermal mass like a power or ground plane. The fiberglass substrate of a PCB isn't a great thermal conductor, so while it's relevant when using hot air, when you're using the iron you really only need to consider the copper mass that's attached to what you're soldering--small pad with small traces = small tip should be fine. If you find that you're having trouble with a small tip in these cases, your tip might just need cleaning or replacing. When a small tip legitimately isn't enough, this is where having a chisel tip or even an angled chisel tip helps. Bear in mind that the overall shape of the tip/cartridge also matters--the very tip can be small, but if there's a lot of mass immediately behind it, that will improve heat delivery. I generally avoid soldering tips/cartridges that are long and skinny because of that, and prefer a fine tip that's stubby and has a strong taper. By the way, you may notice on through-hole joints that there's often what's called "thermal reliefs" -- if you have a through hole pad that's attached to a surrounding ground or power plane, often there will be a circle cut out around it with tiny spokes bridging the gap. This is because just having it be completely attached to the plane makes it impossible to solder to. Even with the thermal relief, though, they are often still harder.
If ever a UA-cam trophy is awarded for patience and persistence you sir, certainly deserve it. You never fail to amaze me.
Wow...nice work Vince! Really good diagnosing here!
Says the man who eats chips while repairing PS4s.
Thanks Steve :-)
Oh the voltage inside is frightful
But the fire is so delightful
And since we've no place to go
Let it blow, let it blow, let it blow.
Merry Xmas Vince and all.
Lmaoooo.
Merry Christmas sir
Love this, mind if I steal it?
@@zerocool278 Haha. It took me a whole 10 minutes to come up with it and you want to steal it? It's all yours but don't you go taking credit for it. 😉
I laughed, I cried, it was a rollercoaster of emotions. Well done.
MyMateVince presents:
PS4 From Hell II: Hellspawn
Yet another great (and indeed painful) repair!
"I'm losing my will to live on this one as you can imagine."
God, do I feel that.
One can still salvage a chip with a broken pin like that by carefully grinding back the plastic casing above the broken pin to expose a bit more metal to solder onto. The pins actually travel quite deep before reaching the bond wires.
There are many fault finding techniques in electronics and understanding how the signals pass from stage to stage helps. One thing that might help you in the future is a cheap oscilloscope to actually see the signals presented at the outout pins of a device. When you have a working unit and faulty unit it's easy to compare what's there and what's not.
Don't be afraid to use a scope in fault finding it might take you a while to understand what you are doing but in the long run it will pay off trust me. Happy holidays to you and the viewers.
I can't blame you Vince this really was a nightmare to fix!
Perseverance paid off in the end, shame it was a long job for you mate. The little things are always the hardest to find but at least we all learnt something along the way. I hope you and the family have a great Christmas, all the best :)
I personally enjoy the full videos. I love the way you run through your investigations and diagnosis. I imagine you drive many people crazy with your methods but I always cheer you on. I wish you and your family a very merry Christmas.
I’m so happy I can learn all these lessons through you instead of having to go through this myself!!!!
"Let's see if it turns on" - 55 minutes remaining on the video . "Nope"
Good job Vince, it's really nice to learn from the mistakes others, I love the process
Merry Christmas Vince and Family, you have kept me entertained this year and also taught me a thing or 2. Hope you have a great 2020 as well!
Hi Vince, I have a PS4 with no display also.... but I was waiting a video from you to start fixing it!!! Now I feel like an expert because a saw all the issues you had!!! wish me luck!.
I really admire your patience. I think I'd thrown it against the wall after day 1
Way to go Vince! All the toil and trouble was worth it in the end. Good job!
Merry Christmas to you and your family from Canada!
Oh my, I can’t believe you have had the same problem as I have got with a PS4 slim. I have been working on it now for nearly a week on and off. I have changed the chip twice with two new parts bought off eBay, I checked the hdmi port and found two shorting pins but that didn’t fix it and I have just had to put it to one side because I have spent so much time on it now it was driving me mad. I thank you for uploading this video because you have given me a way to go and given me more hope of fixing it again, I think I had better wait until Boxing Day though as I don’t think I would be very popular taking it apart tomorrow.
The Slim and Pro have a different pinout than the original models and a few of the pins are supposed to be shorted. The only one I can remember off of the top of my head is pin 3 (it's supposed to be ground) whereas the other models are not.
You can also have faulty diodes or the IC is not replaced correctly (most likely). Your diodes should read around .6V in diode mode on the slim and OL the other way around with the exception of one diode on the IC side of the board which reads .6v and 1.45v the other way around. If they don't, you could have a bad diode in the circuit or the IC just isn't on right.
Johnathan Hartzell hey i have a Pro that i Replaced 3 Times the IC, 1 time The Port, and all EMI Filters and all Diodes too the Console gives no Signal and no Signal in recovery mode ._. Thx for the Information with the Diode V. I used a Broken Slim board for the Components for replace.
Loki Wenzel You need to use a multimeter to check the diode voltages in diode mode to pin down what’s wrong. Diodes are also orientation sensitive - if any of them are installed backwards the PS4 won’t work. The IC on this also takes a bit of practice to replace correctly. That was most often my mistake when I first started. Believe it or not they’re actually more resistant to heat than you may think. I thought I burned them and destroyed them a few times when I actually just didn’t prep the chip and install it correctly.
Also I’ve seen many repair attempts on ports where the pins weren’t soldered on all the way. Only easy way to spot if the diodes are on backwards, loose hdmi port pins, or suspect joints is with a good microscope. Or else you’re working blind.
Johnathan Hartzell yeah that i know about siode orientation they all Right in Place. I check later the Board again and if i Underatand it right. The First Diode behind the HDMI port is around 6v and the others at 1,45v ?
And do you have the Pinout for the Pro hdmi port ?
At the last filter change at 56.49 I noticed a short circuit on the filter. I wanted to scream, Vince, Vince you got a short circuit there! Then I realized it wasn't a live broadcast and even if you didn't hear me. You're still making great videos. At this point I realize that I wouldn't destroy PS3 if I thought about and dedicated HDMI filters. You teach me to understand everything you fix. It would be very helpful in my life if I could consult someone more experienced on various repairs. I, too, like some fans here, wish you a peaceful Christmas holiday in your family circle.
Great work!! Could absolutely hear the release of tension in your voice when that PS4 screen came on. Once again great video, i love these as they mirror kind of what i do when i repair a console. trial and error. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
I seriously felt your frustration Vince. Great job on the the fix, you learnt something new so that is always a bonus plus you taught some of us something to :)
Looks like a combination of bad coils ,missing capacitor, and broken lead on the HDMI IC. I also notice a resistor is missing. Congrats on getting it up and running.
Vince you're missing a small ceramic chip next to the other ceramic chips mate.
Yes, I thought you would have stopped for Christmas, but thankfully I now have something to watch whilst fixing a PC.
Am I the only one that watches other (unrelated) fixing videos whilst working myself? Kinda like having the radio on in the background but not.
No you are not the only one
I’m repairing a Microsoft surface at the moment😁
i do it also
I am often sat here fixing stuff mainly watches and I watch Vince here or Mike from My Retro Watches doing their fixy thing, am at the moment trying to prototype my karaoke pre-amp timegrapher DIY kit which I am building so I can listen to the beat and amplitude of watches but without the £150 price tag.
Well done Vince, a miracle just in time for Christmas! I must say your never give up attitude never ceases to amaze me, I wish I had so much patience, we can all learn something from you. Hope you and your family have a Merry Christmas, you have earned it mate :)
Don't clean the solder with wick, just apply more flux, clean the iron tip and touch the pins. It will remove just the right amount of solder.
And you need the knife tip if you want to solder a chip with hot iron. It is very good at dragging solder and fixing bridges.
Your tenacity is impressive, I consider myself a patient person but even at that point I’d have given up.
Those choke-filters are very sensitive to direct heat, as you noticed it's just 2 coils and when you heat it for a long time it melts insulation coating and short lines out.
Oh, and the lid on an SMT inductor isn't to protect it- it's so that the suction tip on a pick-and-place machine can pick it up. It needs a flat top to the parts. That's why you sometimes see little pieces of tape and such on top of SMT parts that are weird shapes.
Another one narrowly escapes the landfill. Well done Vince. The long versions are the best.
What a battle! Really a good watch though. Glad you didn't give-up!
Wow, just wow, the amount of dedication to fixing this thing was awesome, by the end of the first day I would have been out the back of the office, submitting the thing to some serious wrath, congrats mate, you have made the first hour of putting things in envelopes today whizz by :)
Haha, cheers Mike, hope you had a great Christmas and wishing you a happy 2020 :-)
As usual, great video, and as usual, I don't mind the length. Vince movies are always welcome.
Great perseverance , Vince, but you really need a scope for audio, video, RF and digital work.
I think it was around 1970 when I bought my first scope.
Didn't you say you had just bought one?
OMG. That is the most satisfying end to a video in a long time. Thanks for sharing.
For the missing leg you can drill on the chip with a dremel until you get more metal and attach a wire or the actual leg
Sorry the drag soldering of the QFP didn't work out for you :/ I would suggest if you're going to try it again, you really only need to use the tiniest amount of solder, and you want to keep your iron away from the package just where the very end of the lead touches the pad--In general, heating the pad is more important than heating the lead. Start at one end and try to spread the solder you start with as far down the row as you can. If you end up with bridges, you can usually clean your iron tip off and just grab the extra solder with it (as long as there's enough flux present). I've found if you have a chisel tip or similar you can often just add flux and place the edge of the tip down at the very outer edge of the pad and the solder will be drawn to it, often un-bridging in the process.
You should not need a big tip (even the very small ones should be fine), but you should use a LOT of flux and keep reapplying flux if it starts to give you trouble (also helps if you have flux on the pads already before you put the chip down, and clean off any flux that's already been heated first as it doesn't actually do the business). I find the "knife" style tips to be great for it but a chisel tip works as well. The hoof-type tip you're using would not be my first choice. Given the amount of flux I use when doing this, I prefer liquid from a pen to the gel type as it makes cleanup easier.
One extra trick is if you do it as I suggest, it may not be obvious visually whether the pads are actually connected or not. What I do is use sharp tweezers or a fine multimeter probe to try and wiggle the lead. If it doesn't move, you can be confident it's soldered in place. Since there are so many leads the strength of the individual solder joints doesn't matter as much as it would if there were fewer leads. *edit: looks like you actually did that in the video, leaving it in for the benefit of others*
bravo é la prima volta che seguo un tuo video... sono stato tutto il tempo incollato a vedere la tua diagnosi alla fine credevo che dal nervoso la buttavi via dalla finestra... ed invece se stato persistente ed hai raggiunto l'obiettivo. Grande . Davvero davvero Bravo .
I think we've all been there Vince. I was surprised not to see it being fixed with a 10kg hammer long before you eventually got it fixed! Well done dude!
Merry Christmas to you and your family from Kenosha, WI. What a great find it was to stumble across your channel many months ago. I'd almost given up believing there were any patient, intelligent human beings left. :D
Wow what a roller coaster, excellent job Vince!
Definitely one of your more challenging fixes, good job mate.
Quick tip: for soldering those chips, if you bridge 2 pins in one corner, you can then add flux to it, and "grab solder" it easily, by moving the tip across the pins, grabbing the solder across them, if thermal dissipation is too high, just grab solder slower.
The numbers in SMD parts are sizes in fractions of an inch- 0603 means 0.06" by 0.03". The next size down from 0603 is 0402, and then the next size down is 0201.
Thank you for sharing this journey.
This made me decide to buy a broken non display ps4.
It can be tempting to drag the solder braid/wick across rows of pads like that because it can be so much easier and *usually* it works just fine. However, the heat weakens the bond between the copper and the board so when you're dragging sideways on them there's a big risk of moving the pad out of position or even just ripping it off.
The safe way to do it is to dab rather than drag. It requires patience and maybe more flux but it's better than a damaged pcb.
That was painful o watch. Not because you did a bad ob but because it must have been so frustrating for you. Glad it turned out okay in the end
Wow 10 out 10 for sticking with it and not giving up , i did think you were not going to sort this one, but well done for keeping your patience 🤔
Hi Vince, could you tell me if all those capacitors and the black resistor are needed at all for the console to work? Are they all 10 nf? And what about the ohm value for the resistor? Is it important to respect the sizes too (0603 or 0402)? Thanks! Great video and, above all, great guy with a great patience!👍
Ohhhh a double episode! Now after all this holiday stress I'm gonna sit back and watch Vince fixing stuff.. merry christmas mate :)
I’m sure it’s been said but you’re missing a couple surface mount components near the control chip .
21:32 use the blade and scrape the chip encapsulation around the pin you could have solder a wire to the chip, 27:59 you could use the solder mask to keep the wire in place before soldering the chip on the board.
Hi Vince for info 0603 smd is dimension in inches 0.06"x0.03" or 1.5mmx0.8mm. The smaller cap is probably 0402 (0.04"x 0.02"). video 58:45
For difficult soldering (high thermal pads ) you can use the hot air set to 180 and use the soldering iron with the hot air
I come to say thank you about finding this EMI filter issue. I faced some similar situation when fixing a PS3. Although it's a PS3 the HDMI sub circuit remains about the same. In my case the EMI filter doesn't have continuity on HDMI pin 1, which makes the display very hard to show image, though sometimes I can make it work by force resetting PS3. After replacing the EMI filter, the image came very quickly after powering up.
Nice work, Vince. Good to see a happy ending. Merry Christmas to you, and all fellow viewers.
Very good Vince!!! Almost 500K Subs aswell.. You deserve it bro keep up the good work! ;)
Ever consider doing a live stream and have the audience assist you with a repair?
nice, some times I thinking the same!
Fantastic, pleased you got to the bottom of this one!!! Regards resoldering that IC, not all fluxes are the same! That's the kind of IC I would use Chip quik flux with - it helps avoid bridges. I find other fluxes just dont do the same job! With regards to that missing pin, you could dremel (carefully) into the top of the IC edge there to expose that single pin. It's fiddly though and far easier to swap out for a spare as you did =D Hope you are having a good Christmas!!
Thanks Chris, I think I threw out that chip, I wish I had grinded back the corner as I would have liked to reuse that one. At least I will know that for next time. Nice little tip as usual. Enjoy the holidays :-)
Congratulations on getting it working nice work mate.
Super nice fix! Still, I was shouting "use fluuuuux" so often ;) Also: clean those tips, and maybe get yourself a blade tip, like a hakko shape K. Would have helped a lot on the chip
The invincible vince cracks it again well done chap
Vince = patience,
Me = Hammer
At least you learnt about ports and filters, hats off to you vince great vid.
Hey Vince, love the videos. What microscope do you use?
Vince is the type of guy to come down at 2am boxing day for his christmas dinner
great result. I don't think we appreciate how much time goes into these videos once they've been edited. I certainly didn't.
Just going to throw this out there. The filters that you were replacing in the beginning are essentially fuses. They can be replaced by just using a wire as a 0ohm wire or fuse. They are used to clean the video signal though so be aware that this may produce a slightly worse picture, but it will work.
HDMI is digital so the likely results of a dirty signal are it either working perfectly or not at all. Maybe some glitching
Amazing Vince ,Very Well Done really enjoyed that video. Tell me this, do you have a link to that little HDMI tester you have that plugs into the port, think i could be doing with one of them. Mick 👍🍻
Thank you for sharing and for your perseverance. Awesome work! You get a sub and a massive thumbs up from me. Stay safe and keep them videos coming!
It doesn’t have to be pretty to work - nice job figuring it out in the end!
Awesome Vince..well done!!!..glad you finaly got it sorted..and Merry Christmas!!
Well done Vince, another cracking video, Merry Christmas to you and your family 👍
Hey Vince. You're missing a few SMD components to the left of the HDMI chip.
Lately I have fixed a PS4 (which I don’t do as regularly as Vince). The HDMI port was borked. So just changing this. The point is: It worked fine on 1080p, but when I switched to 720P or 1080i as a test, the picture was gone. Like snowy pixels only, no real image.
480p worked well, like 1080p. I was thinking that some filter might be the issue, but when I reappraoched the device. I just had some bridge on the HDMI port.
Bottom line: Working 1080p doesn’t mean that everything is 100% ok.
Merry Christmas!
Wow, what a soul sucker! How you managed to refrain from throwing it through a window is beyond me. Awesome job on that micro jumper. I actually noticed that missing capacitor at the start (he'll get to that), but totally forgot about it as you overcame the other hurdles. Tenacity, thy name is Vince.
59:19 you can clearly see a bridge on them two pads of the top most filter. There's a huge blob of solder between them. You might be safer picking them filters from the edges.
I noticed that right away.
@56:51 you can see, Vince, that your filter bridged when you added your lead solder. ive been yelling at my screen for 10 mins! lol sorry I couldn't help ya man, but glad you found it in the end. cheers man!
My guess is that it will still work if you just jump those filters. They are common mode chokes for your digital connection, but they don't matter if you use a good HDMI cable.
You need to minimise the risk of thermal stress to components. If you are salvaging parts from donor boards just remove all the parts in one hit rather than having to heat cycle them. Will also be a good way to build up a parts inventory if you have space to store them. Always use flux for removing and refitting components. Karl.
Just starting out on ps repairs learnt a lot from you regards no signal
good work mate. long road but you got there in the end. remember flux is your friend with SMD. also think about some SMD hot tweezers.
Before you sell it you should check the Bluetooth module on this unit used it as reference see what area you get a reading for each area
Patience is a virtue...Merry Christmas
Glad you kept on going that will help a lot of people I’m sure keep it up 👍🏼
Way to persevere. What an outstanding result in the end.
Yes my xbox one had the same problem. Had to do what you did, took a bit but now works thanks for this video Vince merry Christmas
Great vid vince always good to watch. Have a good Christmas vince 👍
'I've never been so close to putting a hammer through this thing' I literly laughed out loud at this 🤣🤣
just working on a hdmi and ic replacement on mine and let me tell u the filters was tough to put on lol tweezers aren't cut out for the tiny things
Great job there it may have to long to solve but you now know what to check for if you get this problem in the future love your videos please keep up the good work and merry Xmas and happy new year
58:48 "0603" means that this capacitor's size is 0.06 х 0.03 inch (or 1608 metric 1.6 x 0.8mm). The smaller one looks about two times smaller too me, so 0402 imperial/1005 metric. I don't think it is 0201/0603.
I immediately saw two shorted pins at 59:31. If you look at the top filter, you can clearly see a bridge.
I hear the sigh of relief! Great video, and way to stick through it!
You made it mate !! Congrats on that :)
Wondering what kind of microscope you are using? I am interested in you equipment at all :)
huummmm a like & no reply :(
If U Stop the Video at #56:54 i noticed the first one makes a Connection on the Pads. At this time i was hoping that it doesnt matter for the result :D
Great video. Also have a very Merry Christmas and have a amazing new year. Cannot wait for more content in 2020.
Another good video, the effort and time you put in has helped me fix things and saved me hours and hours, I am always amazed how those tiny components get made in the first place 👍
Well done vince, So glad you got it working in the end lol. Also happy new year vince and to all :D
When you say a smaller tip won't deliver enough heat is it a guess or from experience?
A small tip should be fine for those small solder joints unless they're attached to a big thermal mass like a power or ground plane. The fiberglass substrate of a PCB isn't a great thermal conductor, so while it's relevant when using hot air, when you're using the iron you really only need to consider the copper mass that's attached to what you're soldering--small pad with small traces = small tip should be fine. If you find that you're having trouble with a small tip in these cases, your tip might just need cleaning or replacing.
When a small tip legitimately isn't enough, this is where having a chisel tip or even an angled chisel tip helps. Bear in mind that the overall shape of the tip/cartridge also matters--the very tip can be small, but if there's a lot of mass immediately behind it, that will improve heat delivery. I generally avoid soldering tips/cartridges that are long and skinny because of that, and prefer a fine tip that's stubby and has a strong taper.
By the way, you may notice on through-hole joints that there's often what's called "thermal reliefs" -- if you have a through hole pad that's attached to a surrounding ground or power plane, often there will be a circle cut out around it with tiny spokes bridging the gap. This is because just having it be completely attached to the plane makes it impossible to solder to. Even with the thermal relief, though, they are often still harder.
That was a very entertaining video Vince. Thanks for sharing. Kind regards. Paul.