Thanks for the guide, i underestimated how small these switches really are, but it really wasnt that bad in the end. Dont know if i bend the copper part too much or not enough (really saw no difference there), but it feels better. fixed the double click and it responds better than out of the box. 10/10, would void warranty again
Last ditch effort, tried literally everything before seeing this video. My mouse was doing the double click/no click randomly thing. Gave it a shot, wasn't too bad, and now my naga trinity is working like brand new again. I gotta say thank you. This is a real solution to a real problem.
Can't thank you enough! You Sir, have just saved me a lot of money on a new mouse. My G600 was giving me nightmares in game with the double click. I spent over an hour working on it based on your video and it works normal again. Note to all: Fixing your click switches is NOT EASY! This method requires a lot of patience as you will drop bits time and again. That copper strip is extremely delicate and can bend easily, so be careful. To be on the safe side, if your palms sweat when working on your mouse, spray the internals with Isopropyl alcohol. But my God, when your mouse starts working fine again, its a victory in itself..!!!
Man I discarded my G600 for clicking issues 4 years ago, but I have it somewhere in the house. Me to my G600 : I don't know where you are or how you are, but I will find you, I will fix you!
2020 here and it works, thanks for the video. 1 - I bended too much, so I couldn't even click anymore, then I unfold a little bit. 2 - The trick to put it back is: First the side with the small pin, then the other side. Both need to be close to the top (or its going to fall). You can see in the video 3:24 that the metal is a little bit tight and curved, because its in the right position. 3 - Gently press the center area until you feel the click. 4 - I highly recommend a tweezer, a lot easier to move the piece. First try did in 30min~, second try in 1min~, not hard to put it back after you get used to. You can actually know if the click is right as soon as you put the plastic box with the green small click back, because you can click manually with you nail and feel if its clicking or not. IF its missing, maybe you bended too much, as I did in the first try. The noise of right click is less louder for some reason but fixed my Razer Deathadder Elite, 2 months of use and got double click/not registering in the right click.
Thank you for the guide but WARNING for others trying this...use a plastic warp cover on top first...because than I open the 2nd latch the top and the white piece fly off the the Galaxy far far away!
Yo, 2019 here. I have a Logitech G600 Mouse and it started double clicking like crazy.. and I thought it was just dust and some sticky things? After watching this video.. I fixed my mouse and now it clicks like if it was just bought and new. It's a brilliant mouse and is still 100% in tact only the double clicking annoyed me. You've saved me 90+ EUR from getting a replacement or a different model. Thank you so much for this! Cheers~
Guys, this video shows the MOST DELICATE and PATIENCE-REQUIRING step in repairing a mouse button. The rest of the steps of opening a mouse can be easy to understand. But this video shows the best trick for getting that stubborn metal strip back in place. Thank you OP!
I'll 2nd that. Very helpful video, just pay Very Close attention to how that flimsy little strip goes back on. This helped me get my Razer D/A tuned back up clicking good again.
it took me a few tries to get it back in correctly. also, when i tried to open the switch, it exploded, took me forever to find that little white piece...
Thank you for your detailed instructions, I used to buy a new mouse every 2 to 3 years because of this double click issue, everyone should learn this technique asap to save money and the earth! I don't have any forceps to open the small black box, I learned from another youtuber who uses a needle to open it, it worked quickly and easily. The copper piece is rather challenging to put it back into the correct position, loop to see your instructions for many times. It took me half an hour to get it done and heard the beautiful "click" sound.
The most important thing is that there is a limit to how far you can bend the curved piece. I just spent 1.5 hours trying to figure this out, but if you bend it too far, the middle spring won't sit on the middle post and the whole thing just falls down. Then you have to straighten it back out so it can reach the middle post. The trick I finally did was to put the contact end in first (the end with the raised dot that fits between the contact and the stopper above it) then used my fingernail to scratch at it to get the opposite end to hook over the post. That got me to the point you see at 3:22. Then, I kept my fingernail on the end to hold the spring in the groove and straight while poking at the middle spring with my tiniest screwdriver STRAIGHT DOWN very carefully. Push too hard and the whole thing falls down and you start over. Fail to keep the end in the notch or push unevenly and the spring will shoot out to the side and you start over.
Same set the ends then pushed the middle, it's never clear if it's same to hook the two ends then push the middle undercurve part to click because it's so fragile
NOT ALL HEROES WEAR CAPES! THIS MAN JUST PREVENTED ME FROM SPENDING MONEY! Just thought of giving up and buying a new one then I saw your video. Now my mouse works like charm. Thank you so much.
Finally got around to doing this - managed to get it back in in not _toooo_ much time. Thanks a ton for the video, and showing each step! One small tip: put tape across the top of the internal button before removing its case - this will help hold onto the little white button piece so you don't drop or lose it.
Video makes it look easy... but it isn't. Got it after an hour of futsing about. There's 2 microscopic grooves that the thin metal piece has to slide in to. Finally got it after I used a pair of needlepoint tweezers. Be patient, don't expect to get it back into the grooves as easily as the video did or you'll get frustrated. After putting it together it clicks better than when it was brand new.
i realised that if you should place/slide the whole thing in, then only slightly depress the middle spring to lower/push into place for the tension, this way is i feel its damn fast.
I can kindly say this worked. It's a really easy fix. The only issue I ran into is putting the small copper piece back in place, but otherwise this worked, no complaints. Thanks mate!
Done exactly what you showed + cleaned the thing with ethanol, I felt like a surgeon. My MX revolution is good as new after 11 years of proud service, and I hope it will last many more years ! Thank you so much
Successfully repaired my mouse with these instructions! And yes, the little white piece flied off, but I managed to find it. I did not desolder the button. I used a tiny scalpel knife to wedge the black plastic open.
Thanks for your message about the little piece flying off, I opened the first switch normally and it flew off, but due to you I opened the mouse in an enclosure so it didn't fly and get lost. the second switch I removed upside down, that is much safer way to removed the top cover
I just finished removing that part and I used Scotch Magic Tape: before unlocking the latches, I cut a small piece of tape and placed it on top of the whole upper face of the switch (I used the magic one cause it is easier to tell when it's not making contact with the surfaces, and it's the only one I have lol, I guess any type would work, but be sure it leaves no residue) so when I was sure it was all secured, I proceeded with the latches and I was able to take it off without rotating it down (my mouse is a Logitec M570, so it would have been quite difficult to do it facing down without removing the whole board from the base and without braking anything...)
Thank you SO much! as another commenter has already pointed out, there is no need to take off the metal clip. you just need to clean it (i used pliers and a tiny piece of cotton, put it back with no hassle (with the help of the video) and got it back to working after YEARS of faulty behaviour. so happy to have my mouse back!!! cheers to everyone. hope the information gets to everyone that needs it.
Yup, not only that, if you don't clean them and only start bending the copper, you both risk damaging it and won't fix the actual problem. Instead, take a moment to understand where the electrical loop closes (front of the copper piece), and just insert a wetted cloth underneath it with pliers.
2022 still works :) now i still need to find a fix for the "Repeat Scroll Down" button, the one you tilt the scroll to the right... sometimes works, sometimes don't... but well... at least my left click is working... lets see for how long
21 months ago I've successfully fixed my trusty old mouse (a Logitech G400) using this guide. I was pretty happy I didn't have to buy a new mouse. The problem came back this month and after hunting down this video down in my UA-cam watch history, I fixed it AGAIN! Took the opportunity to give it a good cleaning and it's as good as new! I can't believe how much money this video has saved me.
Some important hints: 1. Get tweezers before you attempt this, as it's almost impossible to do with your fingers. 2. When opening up the switches (at 1:34), make sure to do so very carefully, in order not to have the little white part flying away! (very important and has been mentioned by others below) 3. When putting in the metal spring back in (after fixing it), make sure to push its second latch (the left one at 3:21) not all the way down! If you look closely, there's a very fine groove where the metal of the spring has to slide in. If you push it all the way down, the switch won't really work (I did this two times before figuring out the mistake!) Other than this, great tutorial, thanks for the help =D
Thank you for posting this how to guide. Just saved a Logitech M570, suffering from bad double-clicks, from the trash. Took the switch apart, did a bit of alcohol cleaning of the contacts, put it all back together, and now works great.
If only that copper piece had like 2 nanometers more at that one point so that it hooks properly into the other part... But noooOOooo, 30+ years of mouse button innovations didnt think of that. Also why make it durable and/or easy to handle and fix when most would just buy the entire mouse again instead of going through all this? Thanks for this, saved me a lot of money (if not time and nerves :D)
azért mert ha veszel egy jó egeret 20ezerért, jobban megéri inkább megjavitani igy mig szállitják az új gombokat amit vettél aliexpressen vagy ebay-en 2 dolcsiért közben meg jobb minőségüek mint amik van bennük lol
sad-but-true fact: mouse manufacturers would start RENTING their mice out instead of SELLING them if they were forced to build said mice to last. That's because renting out is the most effective way to make money with a product that's built to last.
Thank you! Did this on a G102, had it for approx 5yrs, daily driver for the family, developed a latching/double click issue, this fix worked like a charm!
Thanks so much, I was eventually able to fix my Razer Imperator. My tips: Also see his 'full guide' link which gives better detail for the really icky part - getting the spring back in place. Might have saved me an hour if I saw that first! Oh and my little white plastic switch also went flying, it's a miracle I found it. For my mouse, I had just as much trouble getting re-assembling it properly. The right click "didn't work", but I eventually realised that it was in 'always clicked down' position, due to me not screwing the PCB in TIGHTLY (at least a few turns tighter than I would normally screw something). Do a few laps around the PCB with your screwdriver, because when one has gone in further, another that felt tight a moment ago might now have a few extra turns in it.
I have a Logitech G600, and it was having the double click problem. This fixed it. Thank you so much for this video (and the detailed written guide with high res images, really helped a ton.) Took me about 45 minutes, the most stressful parts are taking off the cap to the switch, and putting that dreaded spring back in. A tip, do as he does in the video and make sure the spring tab part is on top of the post when you put the hammer back into the slot, put the back clip on, then do the spring last, and it's much easier to push down into place than it is to try and lift it back up onto the ridge / slot. Take your time, be patient, don't get frustrated and you'll be able to fix it.
An update. It only ended up working for about a day, took it apart again and it only worked for about an hour. This is the solution, but my spring is just warn out badly. My suggestion is perhaps instead of bending your old spring, just buy a new one. (Got a 6 pack of new switches for 6$).
in 2022 and you still fixed my mouse. My Logitech G305 was double clicking like mad but having done that it finally stopped and I can also notice that the click became a bit harder than the right click, it's a better feeling actually, thank you kind sir.
@@MasterBaetiong but the mouse in a trap carefully it can still bit you then hold its head from the back side and do what you should but it still can run away
Brother, your video saved me some money. I ordered a new mouse on Amazon and right after that, just out of curiosity did a quick research on UA-cam to see if someone has figured out a way to fix the clicks on a faulty mouse, i unscrewed my mouse, detached the top cap of my click just as you have done, flattened the lower u ring on the thin copper plate just as you showed and cleaned the contact points with some alcohol and put it all back together .. its working like a charm again .. cancelled my Amazon ordered right after that.. got my refund .. loved it .. good one man .. keep up .. peace.. 🤟
Pro tip to those that attempt this, the copper piece is annoying AF, and if you don’t keep your cool, you can easily break it. If you bend it wrong while putting it back in(difficult AF) it will be harder to get it back into its spot, because the grooves were seemingly built for specific tension, and you cant bend that copper thing wrong or else it’ll not bend back without risking breaking. Just be patient and keep your cool. It may take a few hours but as long as your gentle, it won’t break, and you’ll eventually win. Edit: I broke two copper tension things, ruining 1 mouse. It was just an old broken test mouse. I had two old broken mouses, I was able to fix the other.
Here to confirm. Opening the mouse up and getting to the copper thing took only about 30 minutes (with youtube tutorials), despite this being my first time disassembling a mouse. Putting back the copper thing took over an hour, and a fraction of my sanity. It flew off my fingers a couple times, and had to spend a few minutes to look for it on the floor everytime. End result: It actually worked. Fixed the double-click as well as the drag-drop issues. *BUT* I might have messed the copper thing up a bit too much, cause now my mouse button doesn't give a distinct 'click' (both sound and haptic). Nevertheless, it's more than enough for me, especially if compared to buying a new mouse entirely. Someday might try swapping the copper thing of my left and right mouse buttons if I never get the used to this silent-mode MB1.
@@julliferjosephtuba2202 i dont know if im too late, but i attempted this (saw some other video first) and it worked, but i too lost the 'distinct' click. Though I just figured out what i did wrong, at 3:50 they "click" the middle part of the copper thing back into place, which i hadn't done. I just re-opened my mouse and re-did the fix and i now have the distinct click too!
A thing to note: what this fixed for me was not a double-clicking problem but mouse clicks not registering, as well as losing your click when dragging and dropping. Difficulty: 7/10, be prepared to burn several hours on this. Depending on the mouse, the screws are under the teflon, which will start scratching your mousepad, sometimes even after a lot of trial and error. The Omron shell is small, and it's challenging to see the crevices without proper lighting, but I did this without unscrewing the whole board with the mouse still plugged in to the PC. A sewing pin works for popping off the cover with some trial and error to find proper leverage. The white plastic piece that puts pressure on the copper tends to bounce away when popping off the cover, so be careful! The copper: slides out, as seen in the video, easier to one side and not the other, so don't accidentally bend it. Once I removed the copper piece, I bent the curvy part backwards with a toothpick, but only to the point that the "claw" was even to the base, in a nice neutral position. Inserting it back in will bend it down somewhat, but my clicks still worked fine afterwards, so I wouldn't worry too much about keeping it "neutral". Obviously, be extremely gentle during this step. Mounting the copper part (the most frustrating step): you will either lose your mind at this point, accidentally break the goddarn copper, or lose it somewhere because it's going to slip away every 10 seconds. Ideally, you're going to want to unscrew the whole board, so the shell doesn't interfere with the leverage. I did not and regretted it because the thing is just that fragile. I don't know if the bottom part of the Omron differs ever so slightly from the one shown in the video, but what is hard to see is that there's a tiny crevice in the prong at the center that's supposed to keep the curvy part in place. So, after an hour of trying to figure out how to put pressure on the copper the way you see it in the video (it has to bend, starting like in the video, and then latch onto the prong at the end, so it stays fixed), I eventually figured it doesn't feel like it's snapping in, doesn't click, nothing, it just sort of stays in place, but will fall off when pushed even slightly to the side -- this is the part that's "clickless" because you haven't snapped the curving part into the crevice. The good thing is doing it like the author of the video is doing will eventually work, but it's more helpful to take the casing off of the other switch to see how the copper is fixed in place -- in the video it doesn't look quite right. The final step is just a lot of trial and error, you have to press down on the thing that has to latch into the crevice in the middle prong, but the copper piece is just too unstable. I tried it with a toothpick and with a screwdriver, but I found it's better to apply pressure at a diagonal angle than downwards, at which point the toothpick eventually worked. Don't put the casing back on unless you can press the copper down with your finger, so you can see it doesn't move around or you might bend it beyond repair. The mouse should click normally if you succeed, but not before you assemble the casing. Putting the shell back on seemed trivial, so I won't go into detail. Hopefully, this is helpful to someone because this was frustrating as hell -- and F**K Chinese Omrons.
Very helpful video, took me an hour and a half, but I made it work. That metal blade would not want to get into proper place, especially that curved section, that you push in and clicks at 3:52. Two problems I encountered: 1. The microswitch is soldered onto a board, and the board was inside the mouse. I had a terrible time to access the hood for the microswitch, because I couldn't take the board out of the mouse case. No idea how is attached, glue ? I couldn't find any screws for the board (not the mouse case). Since I couldn't take it out, I wasn't able to simply solder another new microswitch on, which would have been 100 times easier. 2. That metal plate, is nearly impossible to get it in properly. You really are a pro, got it in so fast ! Took me well over an hour to get it in right. Tips for future viewers: if you can have access to the back of the board where the micro switch is attached to, do yourself a favor, buy a new microswitch and just solder it on. It will save you a whole lot of headaches ! If you have to open the switch, like I had to, do yourself a favor and make sure you have proper tools: mini screw driver heads, bought mine for 5 euros from Praktiker and you'll need a pair of tweezers, with a very very VERY fine and narrow tip. He's filming very close, so the switch appears very large, believe me that metal plate is a main to handle, especially if you have big hands like me !
Thank you for this great tutorial. Fixed my "Roccat Kone Pure" laser mouse. It was a bit tricky to put back the metal plate back in place, but the rest it's easier than it looks. I think everyone is capable to do this at home.
My G500s is alive because of your work. Thank you, I pretty much imitated your way of re-installation and had it done in 10HOURS LOL...seriously it took an hour or so for my fingers to work but they finally did. Thanks again you saved me $150-200 bucks for a new G500s.
To anyone getting frustrated getting the spring re-attached: Don't give up! I had the hangover shakes and couldn't find my glasses to see properly but I got it in the end! Basically try to copy his exact methods.
Thank you for this brilliant tutorial! Beside repairing the loose spring, I have also swapped left and right click springs in their switches for better load balancing. My Logitech MX Laser from 2006 (yes, 15 years, no gaming) is back on daily track.
you made my day brother, I successfully repaired my Mouse after 2 months. There was only one issue with those 2 copper plate. I was not able to refix those plates after removed. today you made my day. Thanks, Brother.
"Gaming" mouses are a scam. Mouses are the simplest shitty input devices, it's like buying a screwdriver for 10 times more money expecting it to drive a screw much better
@@dicksonlickson1024 They have a higher response rate and are faster than any normal mouse, and depending on which one you get are usually MUCH more comfortable, along with programmable buttons. But hey, you're obviously just a troll with nothing better to do with your life, and im pretty sure we can tell that simply based upon your username. Lol.
You are a generous god. I had the infamous double click issue with my Logitech G102 and this fix worked. Took me around 15 minutes. The most challenging part was reattaching the thing at 3:18. Again, thank you very much and I hope you and your family are safe.
I mangled it too. Luckily I was able to salvage an omron switch from a dead mouse to replace. And if you don't have one, you can order them for $1 off ebay. Replacing the switch was easy, but then I spent half an hour with rubbing alcohol and double sided tape to get the teflon gliders back on without kinks.
Yes, thank you very much! As mentioned below, no need to remove switch from board...just use scalpel knife or fine tweezer legs to wedge the plastic tabs. Did this on a Logitec Performance MX...don't take everything apart like in other tutorials...just 4 screws and remove top half..that's it. You're right at the switch.
took me two whole hour for this, but hell yeah! no more need to buy a new mouse every time that shit happened. if i knew this before it'd save me 4 mouses.
+chozo echo (W.W.P.P) Nah, you transfer the wire from a brand new switch to your old one. No soldering required. Good for when the wire-bending trick stops working.
Just fixed my G700s. Feels so much better now. The button is clicky again. Had to order new mouse feet though. $4 on Amazon. Very cheap repair and now I can use my mouse for a couple of more years. Thank you very much!
This was excellent! I saw many other videos concerning this matter and read a dosen more tutorials and drawings but this video was the only one that made me exactly understand what i have to do to fix and reposition the metal plate! Great tutorian man! Keep it up!
Report with Razer Basilisk V1: After about an half an hour of messing with the switch, i managed to figure out what I was doing wrong and retried again with success. I have fixed my mouse as before dragging and dropping was almost impossible. I have bent the metal bit a bit more on the right click and there is an audible difference but that does not matter as the mouse finally works as intended. Thank you 10 year old UA-cam tutorial in helping another mouse not to end up in landfill !!!
thank you so much for this guide despite being almost a decade old. it looked intimidating to perform and it is to a degree. gotta be delicate and gentle, but you made it look simple and that gave me the confidence to try and fix my Glorious Model O. it is functioning like brand new again, till next time it happens again. very satisfied
Thanks! Works great. I recommend trying to clean the contacts with a thin, sharp blade, and add contact spray and see if that works before taking it apart. It can be difficult to put it back together. If you do take it apart, note that the back end (opposite of the contact) should be mounted almost at the top. Also be careful not to bend too much as it will make the click harder. I also removed the weights while I was at it and ordered 5 switches on eBay for $1.20. The ones you want is: Omron D2FC-F-7N When you solder those switches, use a ~300C tip and do not heat for more than 3 seconds... (factory recommendation) Cheers :)
I fixed it on my Roccat Kone Pure Military, but I bend it too much and is a bit harder now, hope that get softer overtime. If that happen again I prefere buying a new switch and lose 30min trying to get that little spring plate on place.
Even if you are not uploading any content anymore so maybe you will never read this, I need to tell you that with the help of your video I repaired my discontinued Logitech Media Play Mouse. I could have soldered in just a new one but this fix works without ordering any parts. I could not find any mouse today with the functions mine has so there is no replacement for it. I guess I have it more than 10 years now. Thank you very much!
Neither of my left or right buttons were working. Had this mouse for a very long time so i wanted to repair by myself. And doing what he did in the video worked. Mouse buttons are more tactile. Thank you mate. stay safe
There's a really easy way to do this, lace the tapping bit (let's call it front) under its receptacle then pull it so as to hook the other end keeping the curved bit above the center receptacle. Push the back end down so it hooks. You'll then have it fixed in place but it won't click, all you need to do at this point is push down on the curved bit so that it snaps into place (use a toothpick or tiny screwdriver). Took me an hour for the first one until I figured this out and then 30 seconds for the second.
Thank you man. After 2 hours of trying I wanted to perform Seppuku, thanks to you I managed to fix it! I've done this twice (today and one more time two years ago) and my mouse works like new.
@@zams4517 not sure what you mean the method I describe has worked fine for me. I just buy a few new springs for like 5 bucks (the entire microswitches which I cannibalize) every few years for my g500. If you are just rebending the same one you are going to lose integrity of the metal and corrosion (ie humidity) will reduce contact sensitivity over time as well.
@@themysticbg Glad I could help I actually figured this out like 6 years ago and then forgot it so I posted the comment to help remind myself as well lol.
I was on a brink of smashing the mouse to pieces tinier than the cursed copper spring but in the end, I prevailed! Thanks a lot, this is a super useful content!
You are a legend my friend. This works 100% and saved me from replacing my absurdly expensive Razer Pro Click. It changes how your click feels but I actually preferred how it felt afterwards. I'll take a different click over a buggy mouse any day!
I had just run into this problem today after repairing my mouse several times due to broken plastic. And I'm glad I ran into this video, which ended up fixing the left button. Thanks.
@@SphinxKingStone yes it took me hour and a half i was soooo annoyed that i ruined my mouse but when i got it back i was so happy but when i tested the mouse it is not as lite as it was but more stronger like i need to push it hard just to click
Thank you for the instruction. I have taken it apart and I was unaware that the white button fell off and slipped behind the mouse board. It took me 30min to search the floor and finally it occurred to me that it could be behind the board. I gave it a hard knock and it fell out. I have also gave it a Deoxit at the point of contact just for good measure. May as well oiled the mouse wheel while I am at it. Now it is 80% new :)
My M720 Triathlon was out of commission since last March before everything went to hell. But today, after two hours of careful surgery I fixed it that's to your video. I hope it will not give me trouble for at least the next 6 months.
Just solved my mouse issues, you pressing on the spring without the case to show how it's SUPPOSED to work, is all the information I needed to fix mine. Thank you so much, it works again, and I dont have to buy a 200 dollar mouse to replace it.
Worked perfectly for me. I have a Logitech Performance MX and didn't want to throw it away. This video, combined to the Logitech Performance MX disassembly video, helped me fix my issue in less than an hour. Big thanks and I really appreciate your instructions. I used a sewing needle to remove the black casing in this video.
I did this on my G600 for the left click. The fix has lasted for 3 years and counting. It took me 4 hours to get that copper spring back in. Now it's my right click's turn . Sigh. I swear, this is a part that can be made modular. Double click issue? Just snap in a new clicker!
G600 has a slightly retarded construction since the dirt falls right onto the switch. I did this for mine 3 times already, last time I used tape to cover the insides as much as possible. Will see if this helps. Still the best mouse ever without any alternatives. Razers and others suck because they don't have classic 3 button construction. Holding G600 is like using those old pre-scroll Microsoft mice with just huge 3 buttons on top. Except of course G600 does also have a scroll and thumb buttons.
If you've had to do it 3 times already compared to my 1 then perhaps you should consider bending that copper part a little more than you usually do. I took note of where it was when I opened it and moved it much further than the original spec (because obviously the original spec wasn't good enough) so the fix would last longer. That's coming from someone who uses their computer 12 hours a day or more. Lots of clickly click clicks.
did it successfully on my razer deathadder elite. I would play around with it since it's a little harder to press down, but I've ordered a new switch, so it's no biggie. thanks for the tutorial! doubleclicks went from 20% to 0% and took about 10 minutes first attempt.
the more you push the curved (spring) part, the harder you need to press the buttons, for fixing the "double click" problem you just need to brush the contacts (the bump part) with a rubber/eraser
Had to do some cleaning on the spring piece, had a strange kind of white corrosion on the contact area. Came up easily with some alcohol. Took about 30 min until I could figure out how to get the [censored] spring mounted against the back piece (and NOT hooked under it, but AGAINST the back support), keeping the spring tension and fitting it under the top contact in one smooth move. The next step - showing how you THEN 'click' the spring leaf down into place, after all of that, made it really clear how to do all this. Excellent video, detail, & camera view. Mouse working now. Able to click THUMBS UP, in fact. BTW I used a small piece of scotch tape to keep the white button piece in place while re-applying the black plastic cover.
I just wanted to come back to thank you. Fixed my old roccat lua thanks to this video like 6 years ago, maybe more. Then fixed it again after a few years. Then fixed it again, before I gave it to a friend, cause Im already rocking a new mouse. That I also need to fix, but I already know how to thanks to this video. Thanks man!
PCGamingWiki Savior ! No need for new microswitches ! The only thing I need to do extra is scratch the contact point, where there thin metal plate makes contact when you click the mouse, I used a boxcutter to scratch it. My G700 works flawlessly now.
THANKS MY MAN!! Just repaired my Finalmouse!! took me like 30 min.. the metal strip took the most time.. shit was so hard you make it look so easy!! Thanks a lot my man!
I just refurbished my kone aimo left mouse button, following this instruction, because it more often tended to make a double-click. It feels like new now. thank you. a very visual instruction. btw: the micro buttons been even smaller in my mouse, but bending the similar little metal part like you did, did the full job.
I did this earlier. Yes, putting the spring back on is very tough. The curve one is need to be slightly put into the middle one. And the right part shouldn't be too deep so it carries the weight of all the part. Mine the other hand, I think my error because I bend the curve too much so the curve went back down too deep. I finally got it after 2 hours but no clicking sound. I finally gave up and I just realize that the cord that attached to the USB has been cut out due to the force that I did when I putting back the spring. Solder may help, but I don't have solder in my home and I am out of patience for the day. I might try it out again later. For those who finally did it and working perfectly, congratulations. You just saved your earnings to buy a new mouse. This video is really helpful, ngl.
Solved my left clicking on the G103, it's clicking like new again. The zoomed in video is very helpful especially on putting that copper part back. I did not do the bending though, just cleaned the blackish residue on the copper part surface with alcohol swab. So thank yooou.
G502 Hero restored!!!! Appreciate you for sharing the knowledge. Who would've known tensioning the spring would fix it. Granted, I haven't ran it through it's paces yet, but the double click mouse tester I was using would show it actuate when being depressed, and double click within .04 seconds within every 20-30 clicks. I only did 100 after the fix, mostly sustained clicks, and none of the issues came back. Gonna try it in COD BO Cold War, where it was throwing off my ADS. If it doesn't hold up, I'll comeback with an update.
@@lllblisslll I don't know the full science behind it, but from what I gather: the leaf spring, in the switch, also carries a small voltage, and when it's depressed it completes a circuit. That signals the function of your click. It was wearing prematurely, and whenever it was held the circuit would be interrupted randomly. This was from the leaf spring deforming to a point where it couldn't sustain physical contact with the other end of the circuit. Adding that tension back to the spring fixed the switch, but did change the feel of the click.
@@DaveLovesVids ah ok I see. thanks for the response. I always wondered if oxidation of the contacts were the culprit or if the part that makes contact when pressed/clicked was bouncing off in a split second causing a brief disconnect/connection- if that makes sense. This happens with alps style key switches as well.
I had the genius idea of trying to do it via pictures, only after I broke the fucking copper plate I checked the video and saw what I did wrong. Bloody hell... -_-
This worked for me. The spring is way smaller in real life compared to the video but it is doable, it was a surprise when I got that far... Thank you for the video! It is still wise however to order extra micro-switches as the spring can not be bent repeatedly forever, it will break eventually. The next step is to then solder the new switches on and the mouse shall live another life. The model switch I needed was OMRON D2FC-F-7N. Got 5 switches from ebay for less than 2 USD American United States of American Dollars. Will keep them as a backup.
Fuck that was hard to put back together, i have a razer deathadder chroma, if you have the same mouse, are the clicker buttons smaller, cuz mine seemed really small compared to his XD
wow it took me 2 hours to insert the copper piece, until I found your video, I was missing the step at 3:42 , this is not shown clearly in other videos and I didn't realize that I should push the copper arch piece slightly downwards , thank you.
4 hroas e 35 minutos para fazer o processo no LMB e RMB do meu g600 Se fosse comprar botões novos e mandar soldar, acho que ia gastar uns 50/60 Reais 15 reais por hora de trabalho, é, acho que valeu a pena um pouco
Today i just change the copper metal inside the clicker on my deathadder without swaping them without welding just by learning from this video! I love you man i really do!
![LAVROV's interview with Tucker CARLSON 😁 [Parody]](/img/n.gif)
took me 3 tries just to click on the like button, definitely gonna give this a go
took me 7 to upvote your comment
@@Wudanty took me 1 using another button binded as lmb because lmb doesn't work
just imagine how many likes this video could have..
hahahahha exactly my issue right now.
I liked your comment but it got canceled due to the double click issue
Thanks for the guide, i underestimated how small these switches really are, but it really wasnt that bad in the end.
Dont know if i bend the copper part too much or not enough (really saw no difference there), but it feels better. fixed the double click and it responds better than out of the box.
10/10, would void warranty again
Yes and do you feell you go to toilet much easier like button
now after 3 big years?
I solved my problem after watching this video a while ago, I came back here just to thank you. Thanks.
I tried to upvote your comment, but it double clicked :(
i raged a few times, because the copper spring didnt want stay where it should, but finally.. no unwanted doubleclicks anymore :-)
mee too hehe
Meanwhile I came back to fix this sh*t mouse again, Logitech G Pro Hero
Last ditch effort, tried literally everything before seeing this video. My mouse was doing the double click/no click randomly thing.
Gave it a shot, wasn't too bad, and now my naga trinity is working like brand new again. I gotta say thank you. This is a real solution to a real problem.
Can't thank you enough! You Sir, have just saved me a lot of money on a new mouse. My G600 was giving me nightmares in game with the double click. I spent over an hour working on it based on your video and it works normal again.
Note to all: Fixing your click switches is NOT EASY! This method requires a lot of patience as you will drop bits time and again. That copper strip is extremely delicate and can bend easily, so be careful. To be on the safe side, if your palms sweat when working on your mouse, spray the internals with Isopropyl alcohol. But my God, when your mouse starts working fine again, its a victory in itself..!!!
I literally just bought a new G600 because mine was double-clicking. If only I found this video last week!
@@C_007 Wow, it’s actually been 4 years.
The fix gave my mouse another year of good performance.
@@blitzcraig26 It´s possible to change the switch, very cheap.
I agree with every word
Man I discarded my G600 for clicking issues 4 years ago, but I have it somewhere in the house.
Me to my G600 :
I don't know where you are or how you are, but I will find you, I will fix you!
2020 here and it works, thanks for the video.
1 - I bended too much, so I couldn't even click anymore, then I unfold a little bit.
2 - The trick to put it back is: First the side with the small pin, then the other side. Both need to be close to the top (or its going to fall). You can see in the video 3:24 that the metal is a little bit tight and curved, because its in the right position.
3 - Gently press the center area until you feel the click.
4 - I highly recommend a tweezer, a lot easier to move the piece.
First try did in 30min~, second try in 1min~, not hard to put it back after you get used to.
You can actually know if the click is right as soon as you put the plastic box with the green small click back, because you can click manually with you nail and feel if its clicking or not. IF its missing, maybe you bended too much, as I did in the first try.
The noise of right click is less louder for some reason but fixed my Razer Deathadder Elite, 2 months of use and got double click/not registering in the right click.
THANKS ITS ACTUALLY SO EASYYYY GENIUSSS
Thank you so much omgggg
You're my hero I hole you're doing fine in 2024
Thank you for the guide but WARNING for others trying this...use a plastic warp cover on top first...because than I open the 2nd latch the top and the white piece fly off the the Galaxy far far away!
Should have heeded your warning, lol. It did fly off but luckily my keyboard was in the way to stop it hehehe.
It flew righy on my leg. I was lucky as fuck
I lost the button of my mouse and now my Roccat Kone+ can not be used anymore ;(
It flew onto my floor at night and had to use a uv light to find it, the uv light made it stand out luckily
I also lost that white one and thankfully found it 😂
Yo, 2019 here. I have a Logitech G600 Mouse and it started double clicking like crazy.. and I thought it was just dust and some sticky things? After watching this video.. I fixed my mouse and now it clicks like if it was just bought and new. It's a brilliant mouse and is still 100% in tact only the double clicking annoyed me. You've saved me 90+ EUR from getting a replacement or a different model. Thank you so much for this! Cheers~
Guys, this video shows the MOST DELICATE and PATIENCE-REQUIRING step in repairing a mouse button. The rest of the steps of opening a mouse can be easy to understand. But this video shows the best trick for getting that stubborn metal strip back in place. Thank you OP!
I'll 2nd that. Very helpful video, just pay Very Close attention to how that flimsy little strip goes back on. This helped me get my Razer D/A tuned back up clicking good again.
Well i tried to do this with my Deathadder and the little piece of metal cracked and fell of, so RIP
it took me a few tries to get it back in correctly. also, when i tried to open the switch, it exploded, took me forever to find that little white piece...
Its look so hard.. Maybe ill buy another switch by omron that have more better clicks. Its pretty cheap actually
How would you know, have you done it before? I hate people that see a video and try to give instructions on something they've never done.
Thank you for your detailed instructions, I used to buy a new mouse every 2 to 3 years because of this double click issue, everyone should learn this technique asap to save money and the earth!
I don't have any forceps to open the small black box, I learned from another youtuber who uses a needle to open it, it worked quickly and easily.
The copper piece is rather challenging to put it back into the correct position, loop to see your instructions for many times. It took me half an hour to get it done and heard the beautiful "click" sound.
The most important thing is that there is a limit to how far you can bend the curved piece. I just spent 1.5 hours trying to figure this out, but if you bend it too far, the middle spring won't sit on the middle post and the whole thing just falls down. Then you have to straighten it back out so it can reach the middle post.
The trick I finally did was to put the contact end in first (the end with the raised dot that fits between the contact and the stopper above it) then used my fingernail to scratch at it to get the opposite end to hook over the post. That got me to the point you see at 3:22. Then, I kept my fingernail on the end to hold the spring in the groove and straight while poking at the middle spring with my tiniest screwdriver STRAIGHT DOWN very carefully. Push too hard and the whole thing falls down and you start over. Fail to keep the end in the notch or push unevenly and the spring will shoot out to the side and you start over.
thank you
Wished I read this before going at it.
Just finished fixing mine a few minutes ago. This would have saved me at least an hour.
Thx, you helped me a ton
Same set the ends then pushed the middle, it's never clear if it's same to hook the two ends then push the middle undercurve part to click because it's so fragile
NOT ALL HEROES WEAR CAPES! THIS MAN JUST PREVENTED ME FROM SPENDING MONEY! Just thought of giving up and buying a new one then I saw your video. Now my mouse works like charm. Thank you so much.
u still need to buy a new one . its gonna fall again 3 to 5 month maybe thats happend to me this is not forever fix .but its working :D
It's amazing that they use such a flimsy part on the most important feature of the mouse
It's called cost cutting and it's everywhere in tech at the moment. They rather spent .50 on a switch than $1.
planned obsolescence, if they made mice that held for ever their costumers would disappear
Finally got around to doing this - managed to get it back in in not _toooo_ much time.
Thanks a ton for the video, and showing each step! One small tip: put tape across the top of the internal button before removing its case - this will help hold onto the little white button piece so you don't drop or lose it.
Video makes it look easy... but it isn't. Got it after an hour of futsing about. There's 2 microscopic grooves that the thin metal piece has to slide in to. Finally got it after I used a pair of needlepoint tweezers. Be patient, don't expect to get it back into the grooves as easily as the video did or you'll get frustrated. After putting it together it clicks better than when it was brand new.
futsing about... you mean you failed to use the tools used in the video then realized you should have and that's why you couldn't do it?
It's very quick and easy to do with the right tools, in 30 minutes I fixed my both logitech G300s
i realised that if you should place/slide the whole thing in, then only slightly depress the middle spring to lower/push into place for the tension, this way is i feel its damn fast.
@@mark-davidchandler5895 Dont be a dick.
I can kindly say this worked. It's a really easy fix. The only issue I ran into is putting the small copper piece back in place, but otherwise this worked, no complaints. Thanks mate!
same here... finally new mouse
30 minutes and done! After following your tutorial, the double click issue has been fixed! Saved me some money, since I didn't have to get a new one!
Done exactly what you showed + cleaned the thing with ethanol, I felt like a surgeon. My MX revolution is good as new after 11 years of proud service, and I hope it will last many more years ! Thank you so much
Successfully repaired my mouse with these instructions! And yes, the little white piece flied off, but I managed to find it. I did not desolder the button. I used a tiny scalpel knife to wedge the black plastic open.
I'm happy to see you here! Love your channel.
Thanks for your message about the little piece flying off, I opened the first switch normally and it flew off, but due to you I opened the mouse in an enclosure so it didn't fly and get lost.
the second switch I removed upside down, that is much safer way to removed the top cover
I just finished removing that part and I used Scotch Magic Tape: before unlocking the latches, I cut a small piece of tape and placed it on top of the whole upper face of the switch (I used the magic one cause it is easier to tell when it's not making contact with the surfaces, and it's the only one I have lol, I guess any type would work, but be sure it leaves no residue) so when I was sure it was all secured, I proceeded with the latches and I was able to take it off without rotating it down (my mouse is a Logitec M570, so it would have been quite difficult to do it facing down without removing the whole board from the base and without braking anything...)
I read your comment first and then went on to disassembly, thinking...I'll be careful. It flied off like a rocket. But found it. :D.
Thank you SO much! as another commenter has already pointed out, there is no need to take off the metal clip. you just need to clean it (i used pliers and a tiny piece of cotton, put it back with no hassle (with the help of the video) and got it back to working after YEARS of faulty behaviour. so happy to have my mouse back!!! cheers to everyone. hope the information gets to everyone that needs it.
Yup, not only that, if you don't clean them and only start bending the copper, you both risk damaging it and won't fix the actual problem. Instead, take a moment to understand where the electrical loop closes (front of the copper piece), and just insert a wetted cloth underneath it with pliers.
It's 2019, and this works just fine with the razer naga trinity. You, my good sir, deserve a medal for this.
2022 still works :) now i still need to find a fix for the "Repeat Scroll Down" button, the one you tilt the scroll to the right... sometimes works, sometimes don't... but well... at least my left click is working... lets see for how long
@@mikethegamer34 you just need to oil the bearing, use wd40 or something like that. Work for me
21 months ago I've successfully fixed my trusty old mouse (a Logitech G400) using this guide. I was pretty happy I didn't have to buy a new mouse.
The problem came back this month and after hunting down this video down in my UA-cam watch history, I fixed it AGAIN! Took the opportunity to give it a good cleaning and it's as good as new! I can't believe how much money this video has saved me.
Some important hints:
1. Get tweezers before you attempt this, as it's almost impossible to do with your fingers.
2. When opening up the switches (at 1:34), make sure to do so very carefully, in order not to have the little white part flying away! (very important and has been mentioned by others below)
3. When putting in the metal spring back in (after fixing it), make sure to push its second latch (the left one at 3:21) not all the way down! If you look closely, there's a very fine groove where the metal of the spring has to slide in. If you push it all the way down, the switch won't really work (I did this two times before figuring out the mistake!)
Other than this, great tutorial, thanks for the help =D
Thank you for posting this how to guide. Just saved a Logitech M570, suffering from bad double-clicks, from the trash. Took the switch apart, did a bit of alcohol cleaning of the contacts, put it all back together, and now works great.
If only that copper piece had like 2 nanometers more at that one point so that it hooks properly into the other part... But noooOOooo, 30+ years of mouse button innovations didnt think of that. Also why make it durable and/or easy to handle and fix when most would just buy the entire mouse again instead of going through all this?
Thanks for this, saved me a lot of money (if not time and nerves :D)
More durable mouse = less profit. Surprised?
azért mert ha veszel egy jó egeret 20ezerért, jobban megéri inkább megjavitani igy mig szállitják az új gombokat amit vettél aliexpressen vagy ebay-en 2 dolcsiért közben meg jobb minőségüek mint amik van bennük lol
sad-but-true fact: mouse manufacturers would start RENTING their mice out instead of SELLING them if they were forced to build said mice to last. That's because renting out is the most effective way to make money with a product that's built to last.
@@jeffzebert4982 just steal one laaaawl
i believe they really want people to buy new mouse. omron has been around for awhile. 2 of my mouses now has double clicking issues
Thank you! Did this on a G102, had it for approx 5yrs, daily driver for the family, developed a latching/double click issue, this fix worked like a charm!
Thanks so much, I was eventually able to fix my Razer Imperator. My tips: Also see his 'full guide' link which gives better detail for the really icky part - getting the spring back in place. Might have saved me an hour if I saw that first! Oh and my little white plastic switch also went flying, it's a miracle I found it.
For my mouse, I had just as much trouble getting re-assembling it properly. The right click "didn't work", but I eventually realised that it was in 'always clicked down' position, due to me not screwing the PCB in TIGHTLY (at least a few turns tighter than I would normally screw something). Do a few laps around the PCB with your screwdriver, because when one has gone in further, another that felt tight a moment ago might now have a few extra turns in it.
I have a Logitech G600, and it was having the double click problem. This fixed it. Thank you so much for this video (and the detailed written guide with high res images, really helped a ton.) Took me about 45 minutes, the most stressful parts are taking off the cap to the switch, and putting that dreaded spring back in. A tip, do as he does in the video and make sure the spring tab part is on top of the post when you put the hammer back into the slot, put the back clip on, then do the spring last, and it's much easier to push down into place than it is to try and lift it back up onto the ridge / slot.
Take your time, be patient, don't get frustrated and you'll be able to fix it.
An update. It only ended up working for about a day, took it apart again and it only worked for about an hour. This is the solution, but my spring is just warn out badly. My suggestion is perhaps instead of bending your old spring, just buy a new one. (Got a 6 pack of new switches for 6$).
Oh. My. God. Performing surgery on cats was WAY easier.
Thats because cats doesnt have that little copper plate hahaha
i buy HUANO ali.pub/0dtmu
double click for you
that is actually very alarming. I don't think you should be performing surgery on cats if you think this was hard.
I don't know how I didn't break the mouse in the process haha, well at least it was already broken :P
in 2022 and you still fixed my mouse.
My Logitech G305 was double clicking like mad but having done that it finally stopped and I can also notice that the click became a bit harder than the right click, it's a better feeling actually, thank you kind sir.
I will do it tonight,
please pray for my mouse
we need the results mate )
Yes, how did it go? Did the mouse survive?
How'd it go?
@@MasterBaetiong but the mouse in a trap carefully it can still bit you then hold its head from the back side and do what you should but it still can run away
@@notanindianscammer3660 LMAO
Brother, your video saved me some money. I ordered a new mouse on Amazon and right after that, just out of curiosity did a quick research on UA-cam to see if someone has figured out a way to fix the clicks on a faulty mouse, i unscrewed my mouse, detached the top cap of my click just as you have done, flattened the lower u ring on the thin copper plate just as you showed and cleaned the contact points with some alcohol and put it all back together .. its working like a charm again .. cancelled my Amazon ordered right after that.. got my refund .. loved it .. good one man .. keep up .. peace.. 🤟
Pro tip to those that attempt this, the copper piece is annoying AF, and if you don’t keep your cool, you can easily break it. If you bend it wrong while putting it back in(difficult AF) it will be harder to get it back into its spot, because the grooves were seemingly built for specific tension, and you cant bend that copper thing wrong or else it’ll not bend back without risking breaking. Just be patient and keep your cool. It may take a few hours but as long as your gentle, it won’t break, and you’ll eventually win.
Edit: I broke two copper tension things, ruining 1 mouse. It was just an old broken test mouse. I had two old broken mouses, I was able to fix the other.
Here to confirm. Opening the mouse up and getting to the copper thing took only about 30 minutes (with youtube tutorials), despite this being my first time disassembling a mouse.
Putting back the copper thing took over an hour, and a fraction of my sanity. It flew off my fingers a couple times, and had to spend a few minutes to look for it on the floor everytime.
End result: It actually worked. Fixed the double-click as well as the drag-drop issues. *BUT* I might have messed the copper thing up a bit too much, cause now my mouse button doesn't give a distinct 'click' (both sound and haptic). Nevertheless, it's more than enough for me, especially if compared to buying a new mouse entirely.
Someday might try swapping the copper thing of my left and right mouse buttons if I never get the used to this silent-mode MB1.
@@julliferjosephtuba2202 i dont know if im too late, but i attempted this (saw some other video first) and it worked, but i too lost the 'distinct' click.
Though I just figured out what i did wrong, at 3:50 they "click" the middle part of the copper thing back into place, which i hadn't done. I just re-opened my mouse and re-did the fix and i now have the distinct click too!
@@kyuzex bruh you're a savior. Been trying to get that copper piece back into its place for 30m now but the click wasn't there. Thanks!
A thing to note: what this fixed for me was not a double-clicking problem but mouse clicks not registering, as well as losing your click when dragging and dropping.
Difficulty: 7/10, be prepared to burn several hours on this. Depending on the mouse, the screws are under the teflon, which will start scratching your mousepad, sometimes even after a lot of trial and error. The Omron shell is small, and it's challenging to see the crevices without proper lighting, but I did this without unscrewing the whole board with the mouse still plugged in to the PC. A sewing pin works for popping off the cover with some trial and error to find proper leverage. The white plastic piece that puts pressure on the copper tends to bounce away when popping off the cover, so be careful!
The copper: slides out, as seen in the video, easier to one side and not the other, so don't accidentally bend it. Once I removed the copper piece, I bent the curvy part backwards with a toothpick, but only to the point that the "claw" was even to the base, in a nice neutral position. Inserting it back in will bend it down somewhat, but my clicks still worked fine afterwards, so I wouldn't worry too much about keeping it "neutral". Obviously, be extremely gentle during this step.
Mounting the copper part (the most frustrating step): you will either lose your mind at this point, accidentally break the goddarn copper, or lose it somewhere because it's going to slip away every 10 seconds. Ideally, you're going to want to unscrew the whole board, so the shell doesn't interfere with the leverage. I did not and regretted it because the thing is just that fragile. I don't know if the bottom part of the Omron differs ever so slightly from the one shown in the video, but what is hard to see is that there's a tiny crevice in the prong at the center that's supposed to keep the curvy part in place. So, after an hour of trying to figure out how to put pressure on the copper the way you see it in the video (it has to bend, starting like in the video, and then latch onto the prong at the end, so it stays fixed), I eventually figured it doesn't feel like it's snapping in, doesn't click, nothing, it just sort of stays in place, but will fall off when pushed even slightly to the side -- this is the part that's "clickless" because you haven't snapped the curving part into the crevice. The good thing is doing it like the author of the video is doing will eventually work, but it's more helpful to take the casing off of the other switch to see how the copper is fixed in place -- in the video it doesn't look quite right.
The final step is just a lot of trial and error, you have to press down on the thing that has to latch into the crevice in the middle prong, but the copper piece is just too unstable. I tried it with a toothpick and with a screwdriver, but I found it's better to apply pressure at a diagonal angle than downwards, at which point the toothpick eventually worked. Don't put the casing back on unless you can press the copper down with your finger, so you can see it doesn't move around or you might bend it beyond repair. The mouse should click normally if you succeed, but not before you assemble the casing. Putting the shell back on seemed trivial, so I won't go into detail.
Hopefully, this is helpful to someone because this was frustrating as hell -- and F**K Chinese Omrons.
Very helpful video, took me an hour and a half, but I made it work. That metal blade would not want to get into proper place, especially that curved section, that you push in and clicks at 3:52.
Two problems I encountered:
1. The microswitch is soldered onto a board, and the board was inside the mouse. I had a terrible time to access the hood for the microswitch, because I couldn't take the board out of the mouse case. No idea how is attached, glue ? I couldn't find any screws for the board (not the mouse case). Since I couldn't take it out, I wasn't able to simply solder another new microswitch on, which would have been 100 times easier.
2. That metal plate, is nearly impossible to get it in properly. You really are a pro, got it in so fast ! Took me well over an hour to get it in right.
Tips for future viewers: if you can have access to the back of the board where the micro switch is attached to, do yourself a favor, buy a new microswitch and just solder it on. It will save you a whole lot of headaches !
If you have to open the switch, like I had to, do yourself a favor and make sure you have proper tools: mini screw driver heads, bought mine for 5 euros from Praktiker and you'll need a pair of tweezers, with a very very VERY fine and narrow tip. He's filming very close, so the switch appears very large, believe me that metal plate is a main to handle, especially if you have big hands like me !
Thank you for this great tutorial. Fixed my "Roccat Kone Pure" laser mouse. It was a bit tricky to put back the metal plate back in place, but the rest it's easier than it looks. I think everyone is capable to do this at home.
my man just broke the best drag clicking mice
Wonder what the Roccat Kone EMP is in that league...
Was a RIP to the left click till I fixed it from this video.
@@lemurmad Look for the switches. Kalih 8.0 are rated at 80M clicks and this is your best bet.
My G500s is alive because of your work. Thank you, I pretty much imitated your way of re-installation and had it done in 10HOURS LOL...seriously it took an hour or so for my fingers to work but they finally did. Thanks again you saved me $150-200 bucks for a new G500s.
To anyone getting frustrated getting the spring re-attached: Don't give up! I had the hangover shakes and couldn't find my glasses to see properly but I got it in the end! Basically try to copy his exact methods.
This is one of the older videos with a fix, but the only one worth a damn. Thank you!
Thank you for this brilliant tutorial! Beside repairing the loose spring, I have also swapped left and right click springs in their switches for better load balancing.
My Logitech MX Laser from 2006 (yes, 15 years, no gaming) is back on daily track.
you made my day brother, I successfully repaired my Mouse after 2 months. There was only one issue with those 2 copper plate. I was not able to refix those plates after removed. today you made my day. Thanks, Brother.
You saved my 80€ gaming mouse from an early grave +PCGamingWiki.
Awesome tutorial!
"Gaming" mouses are a scam. Mouses are the simplest shitty input devices, it's like buying a screwdriver for 10 times more money expecting it to drive a screw much better
Well some gaming mice have programmable buttons, plus they are more comfortable to hold. So no, they aren't scams unless they are WAYYY overpriced.
you are dumb enough to buy a mouse that is worth 80 euros, ahahaha you are laughable
@@dicksonlickson1024 They have a higher response rate and are faster than any normal mouse, and depending on which one you get are usually MUCH more comfortable, along with programmable buttons. But hey, you're obviously just a troll with nothing better to do with your life, and im pretty sure we can tell that simply based upon your username. Lol.
You are a generous god. I had the infamous double click issue with my Logitech G102 and this fix worked. Took me around 15 minutes. The most challenging part was reattaching the thing at 3:18. Again, thank you very much and I hope you and your family are safe.
You made getting that spring back on there look way too easy. My fat sausage fingers mangled the thing even with tweesers
ahh :)
Your fat finger?
Fuck that. Even my damn small girly fingers can't put that shit back in.
I mangled it too. Luckily I was able to salvage an omron switch from a dead mouse to replace. And if you don't have one, you can order them for $1 off ebay. Replacing the switch was easy, but then I spent half an hour with rubbing alcohol and double sided tape to get the teflon gliders back on without kinks.
maybe you should lay off the fast food, chubby.
all the sausage fingers!!!!
Yes, thank you very much! As mentioned below, no need to remove switch from board...just use scalpel knife or fine tweezer legs to wedge the plastic tabs. Did this on a Logitec Performance MX...don't take everything apart like in other tutorials...just 4 screws and remove top half..that's it. You're right at the switch.
took me two whole hour for this, but hell yeah! no more need to buy a new mouse every time that shit happened. if i knew this before it'd save me 4 mouses.
+az96001 www.ielectronicparts.com/shop/electromechanical/switches/2pcs-micro-switch-omron-d2fc-f-7n10m-for-mouse/
+Max K with that method you would have to solder not every one can do that
+Max K sweet! thanks!
+chozo echo (W.W.P.P) Nah, you transfer the wire from a brand new switch to your old one. No soldering required. Good for when the wire-bending trick stops working.
mice*
Just fixed my G700s. Feels so much better now. The button is clicky again.
Had to order new mouse feet though. $4 on Amazon. Very cheap repair and now I can use my mouse for a couple of more years. Thank you very much!
This was excellent! I saw many other videos concerning this matter and read a dosen more tutorials and drawings but this video was the only one that made me exactly understand what i have to do to fix and reposition the metal plate! Great tutorian man! Keep it up!
Report with Razer Basilisk V1: After about an half an hour of messing with the switch, i managed to figure out what I was doing wrong and retried again with success. I have fixed my mouse as before dragging and dropping was almost impossible. I have bent the metal bit a bit more on the right click and there is an audible difference but that does not matter as the mouse finally works as intended. Thank you 10 year old UA-cam tutorial in helping another mouse not to end up in landfill !!!
Thanks! My Sensei MLG was a little loose - sometimes double clicking. Now it's clicking better than new. *bow*
ok
thank you so much for this guide despite being almost a decade old. it looked intimidating to perform and it is to a degree. gotta be delicate and gentle, but you made it look simple and that gave me the confidence to try and fix my Glorious Model O. it is functioning like brand new again, till next time it happens again. very satisfied
Thanks! Works great.
I recommend trying to clean the contacts with a thin, sharp blade, and
add contact spray and see if that works before taking it apart. It can be
difficult to put it back together. If you do take it apart, note that the back
end (opposite of the contact) should be mounted almost at the top.
Also be careful not to bend too much as it will make the click harder.
I also removed the weights while I was at it and ordered 5 switches on
eBay for $1.20. The ones you want is: Omron D2FC-F-7N
When you solder those switches, use a ~300C tip and do not heat for more than 3 seconds...
(factory recommendation)
Cheers :)
I fixed it on my Roccat Kone Pure Military, but I bend it too much and is a bit harder now, hope that get softer overtime. If that happen again I prefere buying a new switch and lose 30min trying to get that little spring plate on place.
Even if you are not uploading any content anymore so maybe you will never read this, I need to tell you that with the help of your video I repaired my discontinued Logitech Media Play Mouse. I could have soldered in just a new one but this fix works without ordering any parts. I could not find any mouse today with the functions mine has so there is no replacement for it. I guess I have it more than 10 years now. Thank you very much!
You safe my life, man. This is the best tutorial ever made. My Logitech G500 was like new again. No more fu**** double click.
Greetings from Brazil!!
Eh isso ai carai, salvei meu Razor tb nesse lance! Cara é bixão mesmo
Neither of my left or right buttons were working. Had this mouse for a very long time so i wanted to repair by myself. And doing what he did in the video worked. Mouse buttons are more tactile. Thank you mate. stay safe
There's a really easy way to do this, lace the tapping bit (let's call it front) under its receptacle then pull it so as to hook the other end keeping the curved bit above the center receptacle. Push the back end down so it hooks. You'll then have it fixed in place but it won't click, all you need to do at this point is push down on the curved bit so that it snaps into place (use a toothpick or tiny screwdriver).
Took me an hour for the first one until I figured this out and then 30 seconds for the second.
Thank you man. After 2 hours of trying I wanted to perform Seppuku, thanks to you I managed to fix it! I've done this twice (today and one more time two years ago) and my mouse works like new.
@@zams4517 not sure what you mean the method I describe has worked fine for me. I just buy a few new springs for like 5 bucks (the entire microswitches which I cannibalize) every few years for my g500. If you are just rebending the same one you are going to lose integrity of the metal and corrosion (ie humidity) will reduce contact sensitivity over time as well.
@@themysticbg Glad I could help I actually figured this out like 6 years ago and then forgot it so I posted the comment to help remind myself as well lol.
@@zams4517 no worries
Instructions not clear.
Now the pin is in my stomach
I was on a brink of smashing the mouse to pieces tinier than the cursed copper spring but in the end, I prevailed! Thanks a lot, this is a super useful content!
+3 years for my mouse since i watched this video for the first time (watched it twice now) ^^
You are a legend my friend. This works 100% and saved me from replacing my absurdly expensive Razer Pro Click. It changes how your click feels but I actually preferred how it felt afterwards. I'll take a different click over a buggy mouse any day!
My problem is the little mechanism boxes in my mouse are like the one in the middle @0:12. That one is different and i can't manage to open it :/
+Akash-sama same here,have no idea how to open
+Akash-sama you have to open it from the brackets on the front and back, the piece that connects the black to the white
+Akash-sama Same here mate, almost impossible to open it
+muhdiboy the second click box shown is harder to open, its really different from the front/back.
+Akash-sama have you manage to open it? i really need help
I did all the steps and this video saved my mouse. Been having the double-click issue for the past year and now it's totally gone!
Fixed the double, triple click issue on the logitech g900. Thanks for this video!!
Thank you, it took me 2 and half more hours to do this, but i repaired my g502 and now works perfectly. You are the bomb man.
Just out of curiosity...how long did this fix last?
@@retroman7331 I don't know exactly, but it worked at least one year, just recently I opened it for a 3rd time.
3:07 This step will take forever so be pacient.
It took me around 30 minutes, so yep.
There are 2 little groove in the mid of the metallic piece, you must put the piece of shit in this groove
im going on 3 hours and still haven't manged to keep it staying without jump off when i put the cap back on it
I had just run into this problem today after repairing my mouse several times due to broken plastic.
And I'm glad I ran into this video, which ended up fixing the left button.
Thanks.
i just did this on my logitech g302 that kept double clicking after 9 months. WORKS LIKE A CHARM. also its pretty easy if you have careful hands.
I put that tiny copper chip back to it's base in a wrong way which made the problem even worse. Then I found this video. Thank you, you saved my day!
You should have a disclaimer that you make it look way easier than it is
For me personally (first time doing it) the only hard part (compared to video) was placing copper thingy back and putting in small plastic thing
@@SphinxKingStone
yes it took me hour and a half i was soooo annoyed that i ruined my mouse but when i got it back i was so happy
but when i tested the mouse it is not as lite as it was but more stronger like i need to push it hard just to click
Thank you for the instruction. I have taken it apart and I was unaware that the white button fell off and slipped behind the mouse board. It took me 30min to search the floor and finally it occurred to me that it could be behind the board. I gave it a hard knock and it fell out. I have also gave it a Deoxit at the point of contact just for good measure. May as well oiled the mouse wheel while I am at it. Now it is 80% new :)
Finally the mystery of my dead mouses is solved. Many thanks!
My M720 Triathlon was out of commission since last March before everything went to hell. But today, after two hours of careful surgery I fixed it that's to your video. I hope it will not give me trouble for at least the next 6 months.
1. Watches video....
2. Throws mouse in the bin.
3. Buys new mouse.
Just solved my mouse issues, you pressing on the spring without the case to show how it's SUPPOSED to work, is all the information I needed to fix mine. Thank you so much, it works again, and I dont have to buy a 200 dollar mouse to replace it.
Mine don't even click anymore. Also be careful bending that metal part it snaps really easy.
good thing i have 4 of these that dont have usb sticks to practice on
Hey mine also don't click anymore was it the switch ?
@@fuehwbdb3765 make sure you push that little plate until it clicks, look at 3:45 / I know it cuz i had the same problem
Same!
Worked perfectly for me. I have a Logitech Performance MX and didn't want to throw it away. This video, combined to the Logitech Performance MX disassembly video, helped me fix my issue in less than an hour. Big thanks and I really appreciate your instructions. I used a sewing needle to remove the black casing in this video.
putting this thing back together is probably the hardest thing...mine fell apart after 10th try
Same :D But i finaly manged to fix it (now the other half... wish me luck)
I did this on my G600 for the left click. The fix has lasted for 3 years and counting. It took me 4 hours to get that copper spring back in. Now it's my right click's turn . Sigh. I swear, this is a part that can be made modular. Double click issue? Just snap in a new clicker!
ahahaha :D Razor Imperator fuck!!!
G600 has a slightly retarded construction since the dirt falls right onto the switch. I did this for mine 3 times already, last time I used tape to cover the insides as much as possible. Will see if this helps.
Still the best mouse ever without any alternatives. Razers and others suck because they don't have classic 3 button construction. Holding G600 is like using those old pre-scroll Microsoft mice with just huge 3 buttons on top. Except of course G600 does also have a scroll and thumb buttons.
If you've had to do it 3 times already compared to my 1 then perhaps you should consider bending that copper part a little more than you usually do. I took note of where it was when I opened it and moved it much further than the original spec (because obviously the original spec wasn't good enough) so the fix would last longer. That's coming from someone who uses their computer 12 hours a day or more. Lots of clickly click clicks.
did it successfully on my razer deathadder elite. I would play around with it since it's a little harder to press down, but I've ordered a new switch, so it's no biggie. thanks for the tutorial!
doubleclicks went from 20% to 0% and took about 10 minutes first attempt.
Now it's even harder to press my Left button lmao
the more you push the curved (spring) part, the harder you need to press the buttons, for fixing the "double click" problem you just need to brush the contacts (the bump part) with a rubber/eraser
Had to do some cleaning on the spring piece, had a strange kind of white corrosion on the contact area. Came up easily with some alcohol.
Took about 30 min until I could figure out how to get the [censored] spring mounted against the back piece (and NOT hooked under it, but AGAINST the back support), keeping the spring tension and fitting it under the top contact in one smooth move. The next step - showing how you THEN 'click' the spring leaf down into place, after all of that, made it really clear how to do all this.
Excellent video, detail, & camera view.
Mouse working now. Able to click THUMBS UP, in fact.
BTW I used a small piece of scotch tape to keep the white button piece in place while re-applying the black plastic cover.
best mouse repair tutorial ever
You made it look easy, The Dexterity needed here is insane. That copper thing always come flying away when reinstalling.
took me 30 minutes to return that Metal piece!! omg!!! Thanks for this though i fixed my mouse now O_O..
I just wanted to come back to thank you. Fixed my old roccat lua thanks to this video like 6 years ago, maybe more. Then fixed it again after a few years. Then fixed it again, before I gave it to a friend, cause Im already rocking a new mouse. That I also need to fix, but I already know how to thanks to this video. Thanks man!
did this for an hour, fixed my logitech g102 prodigy, thanks mate
Fixed my g102 with this method also
PCGamingWiki Savior ! No need for new microswitches ! The only thing I need to do extra is scratch the contact point, where there thin metal plate makes contact when you click the mouse, I used a boxcutter to scratch it. My G700 works flawlessly now.
People:"My mouse is double clicking"
Minecraft Bedwars and PvP players:
"oh i wish i have a mouse double clicking like your mouse."
THANKS MY MAN!! Just repaired my Finalmouse!! took me like 30 min.. the metal strip took the most time.. shit was so hard you make it look so easy!! Thanks a lot my man!
PCGamingWiki Dude ... uhhhh.... thank you. From the bottom of my heart, thank you. Your video is perfect. Fixed a Steel Series ikari laser white.
I just refurbished my kone aimo left mouse button, following this instruction, because it more often tended to make a double-click.
It feels like new now. thank you. a very visual instruction.
btw: the micro buttons been even smaller in my mouse, but bending the similar little metal part like you did, did the full job.
Thank you very much!!! You saved me over $40.
I did this earlier. Yes, putting the spring back on is very tough. The curve one is need to be slightly put into the middle one. And the right part shouldn't be too deep so it carries the weight of all the part.
Mine the other hand, I think my error because I bend the curve too much so the curve went back down too deep. I finally got it after 2 hours but no clicking sound. I finally gave up and I just realize that the cord that attached to the USB has been cut out due to the force that I did when I putting back the spring. Solder may help, but I don't have solder in my home and I am out of patience for the day. I might try it out again later. For those who finally did it and working perfectly, congratulations. You just saved your earnings to buy a new mouse. This video is really helpful, ngl.
Hi! Thank you for showing this one. Saved me on buying a new mouse :) Keep it up!
Solved my left clicking on the G103, it's clicking like new again. The zoomed in video is very helpful especially on putting that copper part back. I did not do the bending though, just cleaned the blackish residue on the copper part surface with alcohol swab. So thank yooou.
i fucked up my mouse.. now it dosnt click at all
+Raven. That's so Raven.
Yup thats me
+Raven. look at the bended copper part , it has 2 dents that should hook on that little thingy .
+Raven.You might have placed the cover with white little button WRONGLY....CHANGE IT TO 180 DEGREE....as i made this mistake.....
now I'm afraid to try...
G502 Hero restored!!!! Appreciate you for sharing the knowledge. Who would've known tensioning the spring would fix it. Granted, I haven't ran it through it's paces yet, but the double click mouse tester I was using would show it actuate when being depressed, and double click within .04 seconds within every 20-30 clicks. I only did 100 after the fix, mostly sustained clicks, and none of the issues came back.
Gonna try it in COD BO Cold War, where it was throwing off my ADS. If it doesn't hold up, I'll comeback with an update.
What is actually causing the double clicks though & why does a slight bend fix it?
@@lllblisslll I don't know the full science behind it, but from what I gather: the leaf spring, in the switch, also carries a small voltage, and when it's depressed it completes a circuit. That signals the function of your click. It was wearing prematurely, and whenever it was held the circuit would be interrupted randomly. This was from the leaf spring deforming to a point where it couldn't sustain physical contact with the other end of the circuit. Adding that tension back to the spring fixed the switch, but did change the feel of the click.
P.S. My G502 still works after all this time.
@@DaveLovesVids ah ok I see. thanks for the response. I always wondered if oxidation of the contacts were the culprit or if the part that makes contact when pressed/clicked was bouncing off in a split second causing a brief disconnect/connection- if that makes sense. This happens with alps style key switches as well.
I had the genius idea of trying to do it via pictures, only after I broke the fucking copper plate I checked the video and saw what I did wrong. Bloody hell... -_-
This worked for me. The spring is way smaller in real life compared to the video but it is doable, it was a surprise when I got that far... Thank you for the video! It is still wise however to order extra micro-switches as the spring can not be bent repeatedly forever, it will break eventually. The next step is to then solder the new switches on and the mouse shall live another life. The model switch I needed was OMRON D2FC-F-7N. Got 5 switches from ebay for less than 2 USD American United States of American Dollars. Will keep them as a backup.
good tutorial.
(fuck that cliking thing. it's so annoying to put it together xD)
+OverLost420 I know exactly how u felt, just done putting mine together ..
XP
Fuck that was hard to put back together, i have a razer deathadder chroma, if you have the same mouse, are the clicker buttons smaller, cuz mine seemed really small compared to his XD
wow it took me 2 hours to insert the copper piece, until I found your video, I was missing the step at 3:42 , this is not shown clearly in other videos and I didn't realize that I should push the copper arch piece slightly downwards , thank you.
4 hroas e 35 minutos para fazer o processo no LMB e RMB do meu g600
Se fosse comprar botões novos e mandar soldar, acho que ia gastar uns 50/60 Reais
15 reais por hora de trabalho, é, acho que valeu a pena um pouco
preciso fazer isso no meu 600... durou 6 anos
Today i just change the copper metal inside the clicker on my deathadder without swaping them without welding just by learning from this video! I love you man i really do!