Good video, thanks. I will be doing high tensile fence for the first time this year for sheep and some of your tricks and lessons learned made the one of the better high tensile videos I have seen. Thanks for testing out other methods. Also nice to see someone that does not have perfect flat open pasture do this. I have hilly terrain and brush as well. The wood post on hills tip will save me some frustration I am sure.
So if you get a chance watch the second part of this video because I put some more info in there on how we will do it. We defiantly don’t have open ground and a ton of brush to clear. Use wooden posts on hill tops and valleys anything else will get pulled out. Going forward we will also put every line on a spring. Good luck! Glad this helped!
Love the concept of running the high tensile wire from corner to corner. How do you make sure your circuit is complete at each corner if you want the fence hot all the way around?
Hey sorry for not responding. UA-cam doesn't always seem to let me know when someone comments. To connect t it I run an insulated wire crimped to one of the wires from the other side. Basically the same way you connect multiple wires that are all hot.
If you're doing 6 wire, try electrifying every other wire and grounding the others. Shock will come between wires and not dependent on grounding through the soil.
I’d actually thought about that but didn’t like the idea of having to touch two wires to get a good shock. Was curious if I could make one line a ground wire and still ground to the ground with a rod every 200 feet or so
Sorry for the delayed response. For cows you can get away with two wires one at 30 and one at 48 though i would personally do a third at 18. I build mine for sheep, cows and pigs. So I use one wire at 9inches, one at 18, another at 30 for cows so it’s at nose height. I run a ground wire at 36 that connects a ground rod at each corner. Also acts as a circuit closing if the cows stick their nose through, final wire is at 48.
So I’m actually doing an update to this video where I’ll talk about that. Depending on how many posts you have to do I wouldn’t use gravel again because it’s too expansive for large areas and unnecessary. If you’re just doing one acre or something that’s different. Our local dealer here only offers a recycled concrete mix with driveway gravel so that’s what we used. Thanks for watching!
I use steel. Aluminum is great but too expensive and really doesn’t provide any benefit over ease of install. If I was doing one acre I would do it but otherwise you’ll run your bank account dry using it.
Horses eyesight have trouble seeing it, and they can get tangled in it real easy. A solution is to run an electric ribbon on the inside of the fence at Eye level for the horse.
12.5 Ga. There are other ones but the 12.5 seems to be what most people use and has some easy of use affordability while giving good durability and strength.
I think you're making a mistake by not using the diagonal wires on your corners, they're a critical component of an H brace. I don't even really understand why you'd bother with an H brace without using it, all you'll end up with is two posts leaning instead of one.
Time will tell I guess it's pretty easy to throw one on if it's ever needed. However, a diagonal brace doesn't mechanically do much with high tensile wire since it's the wires themselves that provide the rigidity. Honestly if I was really concerned it would be stronger to put in a third post and set another H brace. But without the brace the support from the H brace is still there.
@@timberlinetactical the diagonal wire on the forces both corner posts to work together. It's like half of an x brace. You either have to drag the posts through the ground or break the wire for them to lean. Think of a turnbuckle on a gate.
@@ironbar9535 I understand the concept I just haven’t found it beneficial. Posts lean regardless I’ve had them on some and not on others to compare. The reality is posts lean because people over tighten fences
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Very helpful video, thanks for sharing, i'd love to see the spacing from the ground and from wire to wire.
Ill have to do more on this!
upcoming UA-cam Star 🤟 let's work on that wind sound son 🤨
Thanks for the info on the fence and very good to know about the gravel holding the posts the best....Good stuff....
Scott F. Thanks brother!
Good video, thanks. I will be doing high tensile fence for the first time this year for sheep and some of your tricks and lessons learned made the one of the better high tensile videos I have seen. Thanks for testing out other methods. Also nice to see someone that does not have perfect flat open pasture do this. I have hilly terrain and brush as well. The wood post on hills tip will save me some frustration I am sure.
So if you get a chance watch the second part of this video because I put some more info in there on how we will do it. We defiantly don’t have open ground and a ton of brush to clear. Use wooden posts on hill tops and valleys anything else will get pulled out. Going forward we will also put every line on a spring. Good luck! Glad this helped!
Great video
william dertinger thank you!
Love the concept of running the high tensile wire from corner to corner. How do you make sure your circuit is complete at each corner if you want the fence hot all the way around?
Hey sorry for not responding. UA-cam doesn't always seem to let me know when someone comments. To connect t it I run an insulated wire crimped to one of the wires from the other side. Basically the same way you connect multiple wires that are all hot.
If you're doing 6 wire, try electrifying every other wire and grounding the others. Shock will come between wires and not dependent on grounding through the soil.
I’d actually thought about that but didn’t like the idea of having to touch two wires to get a good shock. Was curious if I could make one line a ground wire and still ground to the ground with a rod every 200 feet or so
How far apart would you put 6 strand high tensile fence for cows ?
Sorry for the delayed response. For cows you can get away with two wires one at 30 and one at 48 though i would personally do a third at 18. I build mine for sheep, cows and pigs. So I use one wire at 9inches, one at 18, another at 30 for cows so it’s at nose height. I run a ground wire at 36 that connects a ground rod at each corner. Also acts as a circuit closing if the cows stick their nose through, final wire is at 48.
Use batten instead of most of those t-posts.
papa al we are actually swapping them all out with wood posts. Thanks for watching!
What grade/kind of gravel did you use on the fenceposts?
So I’m actually doing an update to this video where I’ll talk about that. Depending on how many posts you have to do I wouldn’t use gravel again because it’s too expansive for large areas and unnecessary. If you’re just doing one acre or something that’s different. Our local dealer here only offers a recycled concrete mix with driveway gravel so that’s what we used. Thanks for watching!
Do you use high tensel steel or aluminium? What is best, thank you
I use steel. Aluminum is great but too expensive and really doesn’t provide any benefit over ease of install. If I was doing one acre I would do it but otherwise you’ll run your bank account dry using it.
Why is this type of fence/wire not ideal for horses?
Horses eyesight have trouble seeing it, and they can get tangled in it real easy. A solution is to run an electric ribbon on the inside of the fence at Eye level for the horse.
What Guage wire do you recommend?
12.5 Ga. There are other ones but the 12.5 seems to be what most people use and has some easy of use affordability while giving good durability and strength.
@@timberlinetactical thanks
I think you're making a mistake by not using the diagonal wires on your corners, they're a critical component of an H brace. I don't even really understand why you'd bother with an H brace without using it, all you'll end up with is two posts leaning instead of one.
Time will tell I guess it's pretty easy to throw one on if it's ever needed. However, a diagonal brace doesn't mechanically do much with high tensile wire since it's the wires themselves that provide the rigidity. Honestly if I was really concerned it would be stronger to put in a third post and set another H brace. But without the brace the support from the H brace is still there.
@@timberlinetactical the diagonal wire on the forces both corner posts to work together. It's like half of an x brace. You either have to drag the posts through the ground or break the wire for them to lean. Think of a turnbuckle on a gate.
@@ironbar9535 I understand the concept I just haven’t found it beneficial. Posts lean regardless I’ve had them on some and not on others to compare. The reality is posts lean because people over tighten fences
Have you ever used gripples?
Jason Audette I haven’t but may give them a try on my next pasture. I’ll be doing a part two to this soon.
They are junk in the long run, tie the knots or crimp it.