So it's the LC4 from 80-84 GM cars and definitely not the 4100 HT garbage motor, glad to see someone finally doing a build with this one. It's catches flack and doesn't get enough credit, that's a joke because it's was actually released as a credit option, GM paid people $150 to buy models that had this motor in it. The really funny thing is that stock this motor barely makes just over 100 horses, maybe a bit more...
Chris Mason Thank you, it is still difficult to get up but as long as I have a cane or something to support my balance, I can do it for short periods of time.
Budget Boosting Progress is progress, bud. I remember the word paralyzed coming up months ago. That's a long way from it. As clichéd as it sounds, baby steps. Look forward for more, brother.
Looks like a beautiful work of art engine you've got there, Matt. Really looking forward to seeing you putting the power from the engine down to the asphalt. I recently got my L28ET swap to fire up and seeing stuff like this helps inspire me to keep working out the kinks it has.
I had a mettalic Emerald Green 80' Buick LeSabre with stock 252 v6 4bbl. Love and miss that car. Luxury G body I guess you would say! I'm Sub'd! You Rock Patriot HooRaah!!!!!
mikes85supra Its been a long haul, mostly how long it takes me to do stuff, but one step at a time, I will get this engine changed out, all the new upgrades installed and get this car running the fun meter.
Just a suggestion here.. I'd tap that turbo oil return straight to the sump in case something goes wrong.. Rather metal shavings dumped in the sump than right on top of a couple of lifters and the cam ..cool dam build though
Normally I do return to top of oil pan. I used the same exact return spot is the 1987 3.8 turbo engine did. There is a splash shield under the intake manifold where the oil lands, and is distributed in a hole near the timing chain which eventually goes down to the pan.
I have the original 4.1L Buick V-6 out of my '82 Pontiac Grand Prix. I have not touched it , yet. I want to adapt an Eaton M90 supercharger onto it instead of a turbocharger from a Series 2 3.8L FWD Buick. My plan is to drop it into a lighter weight street rod '36 GMC truck with a TH200-4R non lockup converter and Ford 9" old mid 1970's Lincoln rear diff with the disc brakes. I'm thinking it should be an easy driver. For carburetion I want to use a carburetor upstream of the blower or a Holley fuel injection unit. Any thoughts??
Lol it's always a good laugh reading all the naysayers comments about how your never gonna make over 600whp and how your motor hold the power! Well I've been watching your vids for a couple years now and one thing I've learned about you is that your down to earth, level headed and definitely know your shit!
Dude very experienced techs & racers will tell you that even the 109 3.8 turbo blocks will start coming apart at around 600hp. For racing that the rules require a stock block racers use an oil pan rail girdle that is very expensive to install. 4.1s are not strong enough, and have weak siamesed cylinders that warp, and overheat. They crack between the lower water jackets, and the head bolt hole. One is better off with a T.A block. (Lighter weight is = to h.p. and better brakes as well). Max actually doesn't know his a$$ from a hole in the ground, and there is nothing "low budget" about this ill advised engine build.
The problem with those 4.1 junkyard motors is the walls between the pistons are thin. I've seen several guys blow those motors up since 87. I've got the TA performance aluminum v6 block but it was expensive
I wanna due the same thing only keep it N/A on E85 9.5:1-10:1 compression. Won’t make as much power. However, it would be a blast in a base model Gen 2-3 F-Body. Especially with a WC T5 to keep it light. Maybe even use factory replacement/aftermarket suspension and brakes....damnit now I wanna go work on my car.
nathanb Oh yes, it will be quite the job removing the engine and installing the new one as well as transmission, floor shifter conversion, electronic boost controller, custom turbo set up and more gages.
You have some really nice pieces on that engine but from one buick guy to another I can tell you with certainty that block is not as strong as the 3.8 turbo block and the weak point in that 4.1 block is gonna be in the lifter valley area the 3.8 turbo block has more metal in the lifter valley and it also has what I guess you could call cross ties that are casted in the block and the 4.1 does not have that I already attempted what your doing with my buick its gonna be very difficult for you to make the horse power your hoping for in that block but I wish you all the luck bud.
Gday m8 like 2 get your opinion on 2 sets of pistons the first are je forged pistons fm maceenginering pt no pis 602 ceramic coated 2618 alloy with 52 series pins. The other set is fm intense raceing they are diamond forged moly coated skirts ceramic coated top 8629 rist pins pt no pkc xxx. The vehicle is a gm 3800 l67. Really like to know whick 1 is the better choice. Cheers.
love it... curious on the cam specs and spring choice...also., you didnt get alum heads because?..also, you will need a good coupling converter like a PTC 9.5 NL.... also, you didnt mention the girdle or the the steel caps?... 3.o8 gear,,wow pretty tall,good choice! great build. prettymuch exactly what im doing.
+brianmathew09 wanted stronger iron heads to go with iron block. If money was no object, I would have picked the aluminum block with aluminum heads from TA performance. I used a comp cam I purchased from Full throttle performance 214/214. I wanted a tall rear gears so I could have top end as well if I decided to try the silver state classic in the future. I have a 9 inch 3200 stall converter from Daaco and the block girdle I purchased from full throttle performance that I believe came from RJC racing originally.
Matt glad to see your doing great!! Thanks for the videos it helps a lot ! Matt have you ever done a blow through weber 32/36? Can it be done? Also I would like to add a cheap eBay turbo to My 67 mustang 6 inline 200 but in having a hard time choosing one any recommendation ? Stock engine 2v carb Greetings from Ecuador
SnoizY Dubstep I do see a lot of Hondas that have mad stickers, lots of sound from the tailpipe but moving at a very low rate of speed. Than again, at Top Gun raceway I saw a Honda with no stickers, all wheel drive and a large turbocharger in the 9's in the quarter mile. Just having fun with the Honda jokes.
I guess I may have dropped a stitch- I'm not seeing your roller rockers able to "increase the duration" of lift. the duration of lift is determined by the number of degrees of camshaft rotation between the first measured point of lift to the point where lift returns to zero of the base circle diameter of the cam. I believe some "effective duration" changes may be possible by varying the oil pressure to the lifters- by lowering the pressure, "effective lift may be delayed, the max lift will be delayed and the effective lift will allow the valve to approach seal earlier; notice I refer to "effective lift- the "softer" hydraulic lifter will "take up" less quickly- the true duration will still be the first point of measurable lift as the cam ramp departs from the base circle. If I missed some thing, please whack me with a clue stick- my at home experiments have already wrecked two cams and I am no closer than when I started. Several phone calls with "noted experts" have got little past "WTF" re the concept of lift and effective duration control via the hydraulic lifters. Thanks for any help or substance you can offer!FR
Osaka living Yes, that took a lot of time and work. now I can fit the Buick and the F150 twin turbo in the garage and still room to enjoy the bar and work on stuff.
Hi budget boosting, how you doing? I got an issue with my car and I need help. What are the symptoms of a failing starter? My car has a no crank no start issue. The dash lights come on and if I bump the starter constantly, it will crank when COLD. When HOT, it cranks fine. Battery is ok but I'm gonna try the Epsom salt to desulfate the battery trick before I go out of town if I can get some Epsom salt
Peter Kapica Yes you can, the important factor is the boost level. If you ran around 6 to 7 pounds of boost, no mods, 12 pounds to around 15, modifications to fuel and ignition timing will be needed. 20 and higher boost levels much more modifications. Basic estimates but low boost numbers have no problem on a stock car.
Full throttle has all the parts to build these engines. They are where I purchased all the internals for my engine. Go see them, they also build complete engines too.
I can understand the turbo car as a factory car, but why not go to a blower since you have gone this far with the machining with respect to the top & bottom end of this motor ? Factory did go the route of the blower with the 3800's in the front wheel drives a few years after this GN was built.....so in theory it would be kind of beefed up factory in concept. I've had thoughts of going to the bigger V6 as a swap to my 3.8L in my 1980 Pontiac Sunbird as its a somewhat balanced death machine as is...….with its turbo 350 and my acquired posi rear end for the chassis. I could only image a normal aspiration motor like you have built here in this chassis I have......but your chassis has a frame. I do have G body stuff too....I'm a chevy guy. As much as I'm a V8 guy.....I'm leaning back on the 4 cylinder quad valve motors for power and efficiency these days .
Nice work! You remind me of myself! What happened to you that you have to use the cane? I fell 15 feet got a bunch of plates and screws in my foot only allowed to stand two hrs a day but still making car videos like you.
My plates are in the left side of my skull, jaw, temple, eye socket. Threw my balance out real bad, and my short term memory took a bad hit. I cannot stand upright very long without holding on to stuff so I do not fall again. I do the best I can with what I work with. I still have the ideas to share though so I can still do that and drive good still. To me the driving part is the most important.
+steve mitchell We will see, it is all related to how the whole setup handles the boost which directly reflects the hp numbers. Low boost low hp, mid range boost around 600 hp, high boost range?
ARP studs, GN1 Iron heads, on Iron block same metal types equals stronger under heavy duty. Need more bolts if I had Aluminum heads on iron block due to dissimilar metal expansion and contraction under heat and pressure. I also only run the high boost when I need to. This engine makes great power and torque even at 11 pounds of boost with its 10:1 compression and AVGAS 100 octane fuel that I run in it.
Stock block 3.8s (even the 109s) will start coming apart @ around 600 HP. A girdle helps but the expense is only worth it where stock block rules apply. I sure am impressed that you have money to burn on junk. 4.1 blocks have thin siamesed bores that warp, and crack between the deck and water jackets. The blocks are known for overheating problems even when stock. It is popular to bore these blocks to 4", but this makes the already thin cylinder walls even worse. Since your wallet is about as fat as your head, why not start with a T.A. 4" aluminum block made for high performance, and Champion heads. On your 4.1 don't forget to install a basket under the oil pan. You'll need it to catch all those expensive parts when your engine BLOWS UP. This to me is "budget busting" boost.
Dude, unless you have hardened the top of the lock and down some other tricks you wouldn't get 1000flywheel HP out of the block. The 4.1L block is not as strong as the 3.8L and fastest 3.8L blocks are probably making 1100-1200 flywheel hp and around 1000rwp. I just had my 3.8L rebuilt and I was going to initially I was going to use the 4.1L casting and my engine builder advised me against it saying the 3.8L block was stouter. He worked for Buick and did development the GN, so I'm sure he knows. Anyway, either way the 3.8L or 4.1L won't live much past 600rwhp. I wanted to run low 10s and after the fact my engine builder told me I should have went with a stage 2 or TA Performance block. Forget that, just go find a 4.8L v8 LS block, they can handle 1200 flywheel hp on a stock bottom and can be found for about $350.
TA performance makes a 4.00 bore aluminum block that all my 4.1 goodies can bolt up to if my block does fail in time. Its rather expensive but the rest of engine internals are equivalent in expense. I do have a block girdle on my 4.1 block which should handle some good power. Since my compression is pretty high for a boosted engine, and the T76 moves large volumes of air, I will most likely keep my boost at lower pressures for longer engine life and on rare occasion run more.
Budget Boosting I wish you the best of luck. I hear that these blocks won't live much past 600rwhp, but there are a couple of guys making 700wrhp with stock internals. At long as you have a good tune, I guess the blocks can live longer. I spent about $8k in parts to build my 3.8L, should something happen to the block, I would build a 3800 series II block. Stock crank is good to over 800whp and who knows what the block could handle.
I am glad my Buick is just for fun and not a daily driver.... I only run 100 octane AVGAS in it so I would go through that fuel like crazy if I drove it everyday.
Budget Boosting I run 93 and alky. I go back and forth on if I should tune for 116. I have considered using E85 and they may be the route I end up going. I have double pumper fuel pump, supposed to be work with E85, just need injectors, flex fuel sensor and FAST XFI.
Budget Boosting With regard to the girdle, I was talked out of it by several people including a person who worked in engine design. Saying it does make any sense to girdle a block where the mains are sunk into the skirt of the block. RJC had a completely different opinion, but he sales the girdle so I would expect as much. Anyway I went with 1, 2 and 3 billet main caps. I guess the biggest think with are engines are the harmonics or vibrations that come inherent in the v6 design. The best way to combat that is to have a block that has 4 bolt splayed main or cross-bolted main caps. The TA performance block has 6 bolts with cross-bolted main caps, the 3800 series 2/3 block has 4 bolts with cross-bolted mains. I have two spare 3800 blocks. My car is also 100% for fun. I do plan on running at the track one of these days. I will definitely upload my videos to youtube.
yes they must be adjusted depending on the throw and type of lifters used. Mine are short throw hydraulic lifters so very small adjustments are needed to ensure valves are closed for compression. Other types of lifters require different adjustments.
Budget BUSTING. Should have put a main cap girdle on this block. No girdle no HP beyond about 500 to 550 without blowing up the larger but weaker 4.1 block. Going to need to install a screen basket on the bottom of the engine to catch all those expensive parts when it blows up. Budget? This is an expensive car and engine.
There is a girdle and very strong bolts and hardware to help the 4.1 at its weaknesses. Yes this was not on a low budget, I maxed out my credit cards on parts a few times. The only budget part is doing the labor myself.
Cause its a novelty thing only turbo buick guys understand. Everyone just builds a v8. This is something unique and once youve tasted big boost, that turbo power is addicting, but its not for everyone. If everyone just "built a v8" it'd be a pretty dull hobby, it takes all kinds of unique and custom and different ways of doing things to keep this world interesting and to continue to advance this performance automotive and engine hobby into the future!
Way to keep the old buick engines in contention.
So it's the LC4 from 80-84 GM cars and definitely not the 4100 HT garbage motor, glad to see someone finally doing a build with this one. It's catches flack and doesn't get enough credit, that's a joke because it's was actually released as a credit option, GM paid people $150 to buy models that had this motor in it. The really funny thing is that stock this motor barely makes just over 100 horses, maybe a bit more...
You can tell when this guy was a kid and rode in his first fast car, he was hooked. No going back!
Thank you for the uploads. You build is awesome. I had my 3.8L rebuild with all forged internals and stroked to 250 ci.
Sweet build sir.. Researching future project down the road.
Good to see your getting stronger bub. Boost on brother
Love it, my friend. Best part of the video? Seeing you up on your feet. Much respect and love from my little corner of Texas.
Chris Mason Thank you, it is still difficult to get up but as long as I have a cane or something to support my balance, I can do it for short periods of time.
Budget Boosting Progress is progress, bud. I remember the word paralyzed coming up months ago. That's a long way from it. As clichéd as it sounds, baby steps. Look forward for more, brother.
Chris Mason Appreciate your comments.
Looks like a beautiful work of art engine you've got there, Matt. Really looking forward to seeing you putting the power from the engine down to the asphalt. I recently got my L28ET swap to fire up and seeing stuff like this helps inspire me to keep working out the kinks it has.
HighPotency Nice, that L28ET will really blast when all the fine tuning is done.
Glad to see you better my friend
hynes64 One step at a time, thank you.
I had a mettalic Emerald Green 80' Buick LeSabre with stock 252 v6 4bbl. Love and miss that car. Luxury G body I guess you would say! I'm Sub'd! You Rock Patriot HooRaah!!!!!
I know this video is old but it's very informational
Look forward to following your project.
mikes85supra Its been a long haul, mostly how long it takes me to do stuff, but one step at a time, I will get this engine changed out, all the new upgrades installed and get this car running the fun meter.
Just a suggestion here.. I'd tap that turbo oil return straight to the sump in case something goes wrong.. Rather metal shavings dumped in the sump than right on top of a couple of lifters and the cam ..cool dam build though
Normally I do return to top of oil pan. I used the same exact return spot is the 1987 3.8 turbo engine did. There is a splash shield under the intake manifold where the oil lands, and is distributed in a hole near the timing chain which eventually goes down to the pan.
I have the original 4.1L Buick V-6 out of my '82 Pontiac Grand Prix.
I have not touched it , yet.
I want to adapt an Eaton M90 supercharger onto it instead of a turbocharger from a Series 2 3.8L FWD Buick.
My plan is to drop it into a lighter weight street rod '36 GMC truck with a TH200-4R non lockup converter and Ford 9" old mid 1970's Lincoln rear diff with the disc brakes.
I'm thinking it should be an easy driver.
For carburetion I want to use a carburetor upstream of the blower or a Holley fuel injection unit.
Any thoughts??
Boost on Turbo Buick brother!!!!!!
Awesome! keep doing your math!!!
Lol it's always a good laugh reading all the naysayers comments about how your never gonna make over 600whp and how your motor hold the power! Well I've been watching your vids for a couple years now and one thing I've learned about you is that your down to earth, level headed and definitely know your shit!
Dude very experienced techs & racers will tell you that even the 109 3.8 turbo blocks will start coming apart at around 600hp. For racing that the rules require a stock block racers use an oil pan rail girdle that is very expensive to install. 4.1s are not strong enough, and have weak siamesed cylinders that warp, and overheat. They crack between the lower water jackets, and the head bolt hole. One is better off with a T.A block. (Lighter weight is = to h.p. and better brakes as well). Max actually doesn't know his a$$ from a hole in the ground, and there is nothing "low budget" about this ill advised engine build.
I need that motor in my '88 Fiero.. N/A tho :) great vid!
The problem with those 4.1 junkyard motors is the walls between the pistons are thin. I've seen several guys blow those motors up since 87. I've got the TA performance aluminum v6 block but it was expensive
Great money put to use
That is 1 cool motor
I wanna due the same thing only keep it N/A on E85 9.5:1-10:1 compression. Won’t make as much power. However, it would be a blast in a base model Gen 2-3 F-Body. Especially with a WC T5 to keep it light. Maybe even use factory replacement/aftermarket suspension and brakes....damnit now I wanna go work on my car.
Looks like a fun job :)
nathanb Oh yes, it will be quite the job removing the engine and installing the new one as well as transmission, floor shifter conversion, electronic boost controller, custom turbo set up and more gages.
Budget Boosting that would take me like five years haha!
nathanb Its taking me quite a while now.... I will eventually get it all done...
You have some really nice pieces on that engine but from one buick guy to another I can tell you with certainty that block is not as strong as the 3.8 turbo block and the weak point in that 4.1 block is gonna be in the lifter valley area the 3.8 turbo block has more metal in the lifter valley and it also has what I guess you could call cross ties that are casted in the block and the 4.1 does not have that I already attempted what your doing with my buick its gonna be very difficult for you to make the horse power your hoping for in that block but I wish you all the luck bud.
Great vid
Harlen sharp!!!
Gday m8 like 2 get your opinion on 2 sets of pistons the first are je forged pistons fm maceenginering pt no pis 602 ceramic coated 2618 alloy with 52 series pins. The other set is fm intense raceing they are diamond forged moly coated skirts ceramic coated top 8629 rist pins pt no pkc xxx. The vehicle is a gm 3800 l67. Really like to know whick 1 is the better choice. Cheers.
I might be wrong but I thought the 3.8 liter of the 80s was 229ci. The series 2 3800 is 231ci. Anyhow cool build and good luck.
The 229 3.8L V6 was based on the Chevy small bock V8. The 231 3.8L V6 was based on the Buick small block V8. Both were used in the 80s.
Sweet, hows she run?
Great video though!
love it... curious on the cam specs and spring choice...also., you didnt get alum heads because?..also, you will need a good coupling converter like a PTC 9.5 NL.... also, you didnt mention the girdle or the the steel caps?... 3.o8 gear,,wow pretty tall,good choice! great build. prettymuch exactly what im doing.
+brianmathew09 wanted stronger iron heads to go with iron block. If money was no object, I would have picked the aluminum block with aluminum heads from TA performance. I used a comp cam I purchased from Full throttle performance 214/214. I wanted a tall rear gears so I could have top end as well if I decided to try the silver state classic in the future. I have a 9 inch 3200 stall converter from Daaco and the block girdle I purchased from full throttle performance that I believe came from RJC racing originally.
Get a hold of me for those air bags in my A body I run 20 in right and 5 in left
Was the rotating assembly already balanced or did you have to do it?
Matt glad to see your doing great!!
Thanks for the videos it helps a lot !
Matt have you ever done a blow through weber 32/36? Can it be done? Also I would like to add a cheap eBay turbo to My 67 mustang 6 inline 200 but in having a hard time choosing one any recommendation ? Stock engine 2v carb
Greetings from Ecuador
"just ask any Honda guy" haha funny shit haha
SnoizY Dubstep I do see a lot of Hondas that have mad stickers, lots of sound from the tailpipe but moving at a very low rate of speed. Than again, at Top Gun raceway I saw a Honda with no stickers, all wheel drive and a large turbocharger in the 9's in the quarter mile. Just having fun with the Honda jokes.
Top gun?? Are you from Reno??
Excited to see it coming together, I'm currently building a 86 buick as well. 7.5 rear or something else?
Michael Collinsworth Outstanding, turbo Buicks are my all time favorite sleepers.
Budget Boosting Gained a lot of popularity in the last couple years. Not much of sleepers anymore lol
Michael Collinsworth I really enjoy driving it around because few really know what they are and get surprised at the acceleration.
I guess I may have dropped a stitch- I'm not seeing your roller rockers able to "increase the duration" of lift. the duration of lift is determined by the number of degrees of camshaft rotation between the first measured point of lift to the point where lift returns to zero of the base circle diameter of the cam. I believe some "effective duration" changes may be possible by varying the oil pressure to the lifters- by lowering the pressure, "effective lift may be delayed, the max lift will be delayed and the effective lift will allow the valve to approach seal earlier; notice I refer to "effective lift- the "softer" hydraulic lifter will "take up" less quickly- the true duration will still be the first point of measurable lift as the cam ramp departs from the base circle. If I missed some thing, please whack me with a clue stick- my at home experiments have already wrecked two cams and I am no closer than when I started. Several phone calls with "noted experts" have got little past "WTF" re the concept of lift and effective duration control via the hydraulic lifters. Thanks for any help or substance you can offer!FR
Looks good Matt hey did you clean your garage out? Anyway waiting for more vids. Your friend Rich
Osaka living Yes, that took a lot of time and work. now I can fit the Buick and the F150 twin turbo in the garage and still room to enjoy the bar and work on stuff.
less bore and more stroke please
michael bachman
overstroke ftw?
Robin Router
the 3.8 has a decent sized bore ...so yeah ,the buick v6 stroker crank is a win!!
So cool!! Where did you get your engine build? I'm looking to get my 3.8 turbo rebuild.
+TurboGbody I sourced most of the parts from Full Throttle and had the engine machined and assembled at our local Hughes Machine in Fallon, NV.
What injectors and turbo ya planning on using?
+Kendall Riebel have 60 pph injectors and have a T76 Turbocharger from GN1 performance using their T4 KB4 headers and external wastegate.
+Budget Boosting awesome. I'd love to see a video once its in car and running. maybe see a few passes?
interesting...I'd never heard of a 252 V6
Hi budget boosting, how you doing? I got an issue with my car and I need help. What are the symptoms of a failing starter? My car has a no crank no start issue. The dash lights come on and if I bump the starter constantly, it will crank when COLD. When HOT, it cranks fine. Battery is ok but I'm gonna try the Epsom salt to desulfate the battery trick before I go out of town if I can get some Epsom salt
It will crank slowly cold and then crank ok normal
+Peter Kapica when hot
+Peter Kapica Sounds like the starter is tired if your battery voltage is close to 13.
+Budget Boosting just what I thought
those buick 3.8-4.5 v6 s can make better than 2 hp/ci...without breaking it!!
Can I boost a bone stock car without tuning the ecu or doin engine work budget boosting?
Peter Kapica Yes you can, the important factor is the boost level. If you ran around 6 to 7 pounds of boost, no mods, 12 pounds to around 15, modifications to fuel and ignition timing will be needed. 20 and higher boost levels much more modifications. Basic estimates but low boost numbers have no problem on a stock car.
That's good to know. Just the only mod needed is PREMIUM
Peter Kapica Yes, sounds good or even better if you can score some AVGAS at your local airport on race day.
Budget Boosting that's probably expensive and the airport Is far from me. I would use premium with some toulene (has 117 octane rating)
Do u build Buick turbo engines?
Full throttle has all the parts to build these engines. They are where I purchased all the internals for my engine. Go see them, they also build complete engines too.
what type of driveshaft
What is that block out of?
1984 Buick Regal
I can understand the turbo car as a factory car, but why not go to a blower since you have gone this far with the machining with respect to the top & bottom end of this motor ? Factory did go the route of the blower with the 3800's in the front wheel drives a few years after this GN was built.....so in theory it would be kind of beefed up factory in concept. I've had thoughts of going to the bigger V6 as a swap to my 3.8L in my 1980 Pontiac Sunbird as its a somewhat balanced death machine as is...….with its turbo 350 and my acquired posi rear end for the chassis. I could only image a normal aspiration motor like you have built here in this chassis I have......but your chassis has a frame. I do have G body stuff too....I'm a chevy guy. As much as I'm a V8 guy.....I'm leaning back on the 4 cylinder quad valve motors for power and efficiency these days .
Nice work! You remind me of myself! What happened to you that you have to use the cane? I fell 15 feet got a bunch of plates and screws in my foot only allowed to stand two hrs a day but still making car videos like you.
My plates are in the left side of my skull, jaw, temple, eye socket. Threw my balance out real bad, and my short term memory took a bad hit. I cannot stand upright very long without holding on to stuff so I do not fall again. I do the best I can with what I work with. I still have the ideas to share though so I can still do that and drive good still. To me the driving part is the most important.
Junkyard block has thinner walls. Your better to build your stock 3.8 with a girdle and main caps. Alot of guys running easy 10s and 9s.
I also have the original 109 block engine
Hola necesito repuestos para ese motor
I dont see 800 hp there.. maby 650 hp..not hating. .trolling.. seems like to me you know your stuff..and a nice GN..you got there..
+steve mitchell We will see, it is all related to how the whole setup handles the boost which directly reflects the hp numbers. Low boost low hp, mid range boost around 600 hp, high boost range?
Matt i need a engine rebuild ill pay you.
How are you gonna keep the cylinder heads on with only 8 head bolts since your making 800 hp ?
ARP studs, GN1 Iron heads, on Iron block same metal types equals stronger under heavy duty. Need more bolts if I had Aluminum heads on iron block due to dissimilar metal expansion and contraction under heat and pressure. I also only run the high boost when I need to. This engine makes great power and torque even at 11 pounds of boost with its 10:1 compression and AVGAS 100 octane fuel that I run in it.
Stock block 3.8s (even the 109s) will start coming apart @ around 600 HP. A girdle helps but the expense is only worth it where stock block rules apply. I sure am impressed that you have money to burn on junk. 4.1 blocks have thin siamesed bores that warp, and crack between the deck and water jackets. The blocks are known for overheating problems even when stock. It is popular to bore these blocks to 4", but this makes the already thin cylinder walls even worse. Since your wallet is about as fat as your head, why not start with a T.A. 4" aluminum block made for high performance, and Champion heads. On your 4.1 don't forget to install a basket under the oil pan. You'll need it to catch all those expensive parts when your engine BLOWS UP. This to me is "budget busting" boost.
The buick 350ci v8 is identical to the 3.8l v6 .Just missing 2 cylinders. FYI for those who dont know.
No it was designed from the Oldsmobile 307. Close though. If it had 2 more cylinders it would be a 5.0 liter.
Dude, unless you have hardened the top of the lock and down some other tricks you wouldn't get 1000flywheel HP out of the block. The 4.1L block is not as strong as the 3.8L and fastest 3.8L blocks are probably making 1100-1200 flywheel hp and around 1000rwp. I just had my 3.8L rebuilt and I was going to initially I was going to use the 4.1L casting and my engine builder advised me against it saying the 3.8L block was stouter. He worked for Buick and did development the GN, so I'm sure he knows. Anyway, either way the 3.8L or 4.1L won't live much past 600rwhp. I wanted to run low 10s and after the fact my engine builder told me I should have went with a stage 2 or TA Performance block. Forget that, just go find a 4.8L v8 LS block, they can handle 1200 flywheel hp on a stock bottom and can be found for about $350.
TA performance makes a 4.00 bore aluminum block that all my 4.1 goodies can bolt up to if my block does fail in time. Its rather expensive but the rest of engine internals are equivalent in expense. I do have a block girdle on my 4.1 block which should handle some good power. Since my compression is pretty high for a boosted engine, and the T76 moves large volumes of air, I will most likely keep my boost at lower pressures for longer engine life and on rare occasion run more.
Budget Boosting
I wish you the best of luck. I hear that these blocks won't live much past 600rwhp, but there are a couple of guys making 700wrhp with stock internals. At long as you have a good tune, I guess the blocks can live longer. I spent about $8k in parts to build my 3.8L, should something happen to the block, I would build a 3800 series II block. Stock crank is good to over 800whp and who knows what the block could handle.
I am glad my Buick is just for fun and not a daily driver.... I only run 100 octane AVGAS in it so I would go through that fuel like crazy if I drove it everyday.
Budget Boosting
I run 93 and alky. I go back and forth on if I should tune for 116. I have considered using E85 and they may be the route I end up going. I have double pumper fuel pump, supposed to be work with E85, just need injectors, flex fuel sensor and FAST XFI.
Budget Boosting
With regard to the girdle, I was talked out of it by several people including a person who worked in engine design. Saying it does make any sense to girdle a block where the mains are sunk into the skirt of the block. RJC had a completely different opinion, but he sales the girdle so I would expect as much. Anyway I went with 1, 2 and 3 billet main caps. I guess the biggest think with are engines are the harmonics or vibrations that come inherent in the v6 design. The best way to combat that is to have a block that has 4 bolt splayed main or cross-bolted main caps. The TA performance block has 6 bolts with cross-bolted main caps, the 3800 series 2/3 block has 4 bolts with cross-bolted mains. I have two spare 3800 blocks.
My car is also 100% for fun. I do plan on running at the track one of these days. I will definitely upload my videos to youtube.
Can you adjust the harland sharps?
yes they must be adjusted depending on the throw and type of lifters used. Mine are short throw hydraulic lifters so very small adjustments are needed to ensure valves are closed for compression. Other types of lifters require different adjustments.
Budget BUSTING. Should have put a main cap girdle on this block. No girdle no HP beyond about 500 to 550 without blowing up the larger but weaker 4.1 block. Going to need to install a screen basket on the bottom of the engine to catch all those expensive parts when it blows up. Budget? This is an expensive car and engine.
There is a girdle and very strong bolts and hardware to help the 4.1 at its weaknesses. Yes this was not on a low budget, I maxed out my credit cards on parts a few times. The only budget part is doing the labor myself.
I have enough stroke and bore
I don't know, for the time, effort, and money why not just build a V8?
Cause its a novelty thing only turbo buick guys understand. Everyone just builds a v8. This is something unique and once youve tasted big boost, that turbo power is addicting, but its not for everyone. If everyone just "built a v8" it'd be a pretty dull hobby, it takes all kinds of unique and custom and different ways of doing things to keep this world interesting and to continue to advance this performance automotive and engine hobby into the future!
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