The sound of an amplifier is affected by gang error and damping factor. In particular, for Class D amplifiers, the damping factor at high frequencies must be measured.
@@chrlz904 The sound of an amplifier is equivalent to the result of equalization using the amplifier's output impedance (in other words, the damping factor) and the curve created by the resistor division of the speaker's impedance curve. This is a simple electrical principle, but do you understand it? Class D amplifiers experience resistor division in the same way as vacuum tube amplifiers, which changes the sound.
@@souzouno-yakata you sure do good word salad, while avoiding my point entirely. Amusingly, I do know what you are referring to, but you kinda missed the entire point, namely that if you waffle on to make it sound like you're one of a very select few... And do NOT address the obvious questions like how to measure the alleged problem, then it's all subjective bullshite and completely useless.
@@souzouno-yakata so all that verbiage, yet the nearest you gave was "it changes the sound". You have completely ignored my question, which was HOW is it different? And, more importantly, how is that 'difference' MEASURABLE? If you had the required knowledge, you'd be telling us whether better D class amps manage to do it well, or are they all rubbish, and how op amps tie into all this... As it is you are just wasting time with waffle. Google translate isn't the issue.. if anyone else wishes to educate us with some OBJECTIVE discussion, feel free. Otherwise I'm out.
8:30 - The 3e Audio A7 desktop amp (recently reviewed on Matt Coykendall and Old Guy HiFi channels) comes with cutouts in the bottom of the case to facilitate rolling the op-amps. It even looks like the Burson op-amps will fit!
I've got a Douk Audio phono pre that I bought with my LP120 (because I'd read that the built-in preamp was lousy, and you're right; it IS lousy), and if it's the same circuitry as is in this little amp, it sounds very good. Perhaps not the absolute best out there, but I have no complaints.
Alternatives to thermal paste are thermal tape and graphene thermal pads. You'll need to figure out how thick a pad to use to make good contact between the two surfaces.
This is from the domain of PC Parts but i just saw a release of the type of thermal paste which is a type of putty/clay which you can use for a bit of large gaps (bet 0.2 to 3mm based on the specs of that brand). its from Thermal Grizzly, maybe you can look more into it with regards to detailed specs like the temperature ranges.
@@cheapaudioman A word of caution here ... If you ever intend to re-open the case, don't use any thermal material that has bonding qualities. You'll just end up gluing it shut.
I bought a Nobsound Bluetooth amplifier for about 30 bucks a few years ago to power my outdoor speakers on the patio. It was pretty decent at first, but I decided to pick up a heavier duty 24 V power supply and that really improved sound quality and output substantially. It was a surprisingly good sounding system for very little money.
Gotta love it when you can get Fun-Fi gear that can be upper end stocking stuffers for the younger audiophile generation coming up. Excellent video Randy, thanks dude. Merry Christmas to you and yours and a Happy New Year to come.
Well, Randy - if you have, already, opened the box/cabinet - you'd better take a look at the other side - the print board. Pretty often, these small, cheap devices ( amps, DACs...) have a residue of flux, which the manufacturer does not bother to clean up. If not removed, with time, it can cause problems....🤷♂
Rosin flux can remain on the circuit board forever with no degradation of conductors. You should learn to solder before making such ridiculous comments.
I use a Macintosh D100 preamp and it's not great. I use lossless digital audio files, played back through a Mac Mini straight intro the preamp and then into a 12 channel Amp. I used to have an analog B&W preamp, but I had to use a decoder in line before I got to the preamp and I just thought that was less than ideal. I like having a gain controller on the preamp and I'm looking for an alternative. No, I don't buy $10K speaker cables, so I'm not worried about "optical cable echos" etc. Thoughts?
@Kai-pcheck Pulse width modulation (PWM) is a digital technique that can produce analog results. If you look at the output on a scope it is most definitely analog.
@@NotExpatJoe Nope, not digital ... the variance in pulse widths is determined by an analog comparator that measures a timed ramp voltage against the analog input signal. The actual width variance is linear, thus analog.
Luxury alert. Is there a way not to get off your seat and go to the amp to have that satisfying twisting motion of the volume button if your already sitting next to a cupboard at the other end of the room?
Now that’s what I call cheap! In the mid seventies, the Infinity rep brought their first class D amp in for a listen…it was many $$$$. The bass was fantastic on a pair of Snell type A’s but everything else was so so. The class D chip sets have become really quite good, perhaps excellent in some cases, and many are a fantastic value considering what they can do. The Ice Power modules are darn close to many of the best analog amps. That’s a super pick Randy , and a candidate for cheapskate audio picks for 2024.
Mkay, but my Aiyima Tube T10 has digital inputs, and tone controls, and a USB input, and an analog input for phono. Yes I still need a phono stage, but that's ok. Won't this have a very basic phono stage? For class D I suppose its good to make things as simple as possible however.
What about Minimalist speakers? Figuring a small room. I currently ride a motorcycle full-time, so being able to put both speakers in my top box is basically the ‘size requirement’ I’m looking for.
Hi, the claimed output power of twice 300 W is ridiculously unreal. The power supply has a nominal 240 W. 300 W in 4 Ohms amount to a current of ~9 A_rms, for Stereo 18 A_rms. At twice 120 W that will still be 11 A_rms. Did you see any traces inside, that could carry so much current ? Would you believe that the little power socket on the back is ok fpr that ? A test of the actual power capability would be welcome.
Do a search for "TPA3255 Data Sheet" ... the chip's actual capabilities are spelled out in enormous detail ... In fact the power vs distortion graph is right on the front page for all to see.
watts are not a decent unit This is for desktop near range or in a small room at reasonable listening SPL. Not a loud party in a big room, you'd start distorting - although Efficient speakers would help.
@@PaulCrawhorn I have a TPA3255 amplifier in my main system... htpc, dac, a07, pioneer towers ... in my living room. I live half way back on the 6th floor of an apartment building. Recently I did a full power test, just to see what the setup can do... Not only was it loud enough that it was hard to stay in the room with it, they heard it in the lobby office... and no audible distortion. Don't underestimate these little amps. Technology has moved on and is producing some really big changes in the audio game. It is not longer true that Small amp means small power or small speakers. In fact these little TPA3255 amps are replacing audiophile amps the size of cement blocks and in many cases outdoing them.
I have an off topic question. I have a Advance Paris a12 and a dmp a6. How would you recommend running the a6, through the dac of the a12 or using the dac on the dmp a6. also what output would you use. just starting to get back into the hobby. BTW I just discovered your content and love it alot. keep up the good work.
Wow, damned if you do damned if you don't. Just don't get people sometimes. Personally I dig the mix of equipment you review. Keep up the good work man!
@@vasilisgiannatos1319 No this is integrated, will feed passive speakers, ideally efficient ones. But the Aux out would ALLOW this to be the preamp for source select, volume and tone control
I was wondering too. Sometimes these jacks are just a "Tape Out" and thus hooked in before the volume and tone controls. I found the following on Nobsound's eBay auction: Besides banana speaker outputs, a 3.5mm AUX output is added to connect another amplifier or active speaker/subwoofer to build 2.1 or multi-channel audio system. The 3.5mm AUX output and the speaker jacks output are controlled by the main volume and bass/treble synchronously.
The za3. Blew my 750 bookshelf From making a popping noise on right channel So. I took my carver amp that’s almost 40 y. Old. Puts out. 450 w 8 ohm rms. Power Or. 625x2. 4 ohm. Rms.
Out of stock…reminds me that any old receiver amp you pick up used (many for half this price) would be the best bet for people looking to start playing “their vinyls”.
TPA3255 chip amps can drive just about any speaker out there. I have mine on a pair of pioneer towers and it works just fine. I've also heard them powering laScalas and L-100s which is a real treat. They are a legitimate 100w RMS amplifier on 8 ohms and 200 on 4. Don't let the small size fool you.
Looks exactly like the Aiyima A06, that I think is out of stock. Looks, size, resources, position of knobs. Everything the same. And, as far as I remember, Aiyima and Douk are the same company
@Kai-pcheck PWM is an analog technique. The way it works is that you generate a high power carrier of square waves at 50% duty cycle. Then you use the input signal to vary the width of the carrier pulses. Higher voltage produces a wider pulse. Lower voltage produces a narrower pulse. Like an FM carrier in a radio transmitter. To recover the amplified audio you just filter out the carrier wave. It is all done in the analog domain. The "D" designation does not mean "digital"... it is simply the next letter in the alphabet after A, AB and C.
@@Douglas_Blake I am familiar with PWM techniques. It is digital in the sense, that the power transistors are either on or off (1 or 0). That 's why they are also called "switch-mode amps". The analog input signal is sampled by the PWM-modulator. So you have sampling and switch-mode outputs. I call that digital. Any DAC needs a reconstruction lowpass...
Noobsound. I don't care what options an amp has but I do care that it does what it does well. I can always add a component that does what it does well to be a phono pre-amp. Maybe you should do a phono pre-amp shoot out. Schiit Mani, Fosi Audio Box X5, JDS Atom Phono, Apampa A1 Mini, Douk Audio T9 HiFi Magic. All around the $150 mark.
@@Douglas_Blake The datasheet does not know what kind of power supply you use and how much cooling you provide. Please check out at what power level in 4 Ohms the chip melts off the board or burns out.
@Kai-pcheck Do a search for "TPA3255 Data Sheet" and download it. Look at the power vs distortion chart on the front page. See the sharp bend at the right? That is the onset of clipping... Notice that the 8 ohm curve (red) "knees" at 100 watts and the 4 ohm curve knees at 200 watts. Those are the maximum safe ratings with a 48 volt supply. The data sheet also describes proper mounting and cooling for the chip. The chip is not going to burn out of melt off the board. It has full internal protection for temperature, overcurrent, DC offsets, over voltage and under voltage. Get outside the accepted parameters and it just shuts itself off.
@@stephenhall3515 That is indeed the missing question. Audio man, did you address the sub issue? If you did I missed it, and it's a deal-breaker for me..
I see that Douk Audio now has the ST-01 Plus with phono and RCA in as well. Looks just like ST-01 Pro with VU meter but no tubes. Has 3255 chip and BT too.
I still see people trashing on these, probably because they can't get their heads around miniaturization and technical progress. Tell you what... take one of these little amps and cut it loose on a pair of Heresys or L-100s, both fine vintage speakers or maybe some modern Elac or Magnat Towers. Really do it... Any questions?
I wonder very deeply whether there are really honest opinions about audio equipment on this channel. I come to the conclusion that unfortunately there are not. Because in each episode Chipaudioman raves about the equipment he reviews. Is it possible that there are only super equipment on the market? Or maybe the reviews are not entirely objective? What is your opinion?
You want honesty ... okay... The Fosi Audio V3Mono has a serious heat problem and is prone to failure. The SMSL SU-1 DAC is not UAC complaint and is known to block the on-screen and multimedia volume controls of PCs. The Fosi TB-10d has problems with board layout that reduces clarity in upper midrange signals. I can go on and on and on like this .... Reviews are *advertising* , nothing better.
I believe it's far far more likely that someday I'll add a subwoofer to my setup, as compared to the minuscule chance I'll ever need a phono input again. Thus for me, the Fosi amp (Amazon B07K7NJ4QN) is a much better choice, having both amped and line sub outputs, and even saves $30 over the one in the video. If 50x2 watts isn't enough, for $99 with coupon, the BT30D Pro has 165x2 but only amped sub out + pre out, no dedicated sub line out.
NE5532 are dirt cheap op-amps, they sound terrible and they are the most counterfeited chips on earth. When chip flipping the major gain is not in putting in exotic op-amps. It is in getting the NE5532s out of there. Good replacements that don't cost much are the RC4558 and RC4580... both under $2.00 each.
@@Douglas_Blake I knew the NE5532 and related chips before youtube existed (45 years ago). Checkout Wikipedias report on the NE5532 and its siblings. Check out TI's datasheets of the NE5532 and the RC4558 and how they rate/classify them: RC4558 is "general purpose", NE5532 is "Low-noise / Audio".
@Kai-pcheck Check out the input impedance, gain bandwidth product, output swing and slew rate. But pay particular attention to the fact that they NE5532 is NOT rated for differential inputs ... in fact it has input clamping diodes that limit it to 1.2v differental on it's inputs. This limitation was okay when audio was running at 700mv but today's equipment mostly runs at 2 volts or more. The RC4558 does not suffer that limitation, with specs that are otherwise, mostly identical. Also the NE5532 has the rather dubious distinction of being one of the most frequently counterfeited chips on the market. Estimates have said that as many as 50% of them are actually rebranded "something else" chips taken from scrapped electronics.
Damn! Is that 300 watts per side peak rated at 2 ohms?lol... I have a pair of old Polk Monitor 10's and I may just pick this up to see if it can push them out in the garage :)
Okay ... it is 300 watts RMS per channel ... but not at 2 ohms and at very high distortion levels (10% or more). That is, it is the "you might get it to do this once" absolute maximum rating for the TPA3255 chip. The actual implementation in each amplifier will temper that a bit. In testing various TPA3255 based amplifiers I typically find they will reliably produce a maximum of 100 RMS watts across an 8 ohm load or 200 across a 4 ohm load with very low distortion using a 48 volt supply. On lower voltage supplies, you get a bit less power... typically 65 and 120 watts on 36 volts and 50 and 100 on 32 volts. But the amplifier also runs a lot cooler and will last longer without sacrificing sound quality. So, I typically recommend 36 volt 6 amp supplies for most of these amps. Now don't get this wrong ... 100 watts is not to be sniffed at, even in the big monster amps you guys worship. For example one of the very best amplifiers currently being reviewed (the TS-A75) is 75 per channel and everyone is singing it's praises. If you need to drive 2 ohms, this is not your amp. You would do better to pair up with the 3E Audio A7 which uses two TPA3255 chips in PBTL (Parallel Bridge Tied Load) mode to supplant the extra current needed by 2 ohm speakers. With the right power supply, that wee beasty can legitimately give you more than 400 watts per channel on 2 ohm loads. Before you buy, do a search for "TPA3255 Data Sheet". That will give you a full disclosure of that the chip can and cannot do.
Yeah I don't get it myself cheap Chinese junk I don't understand why Randy even takes the time to review these. I do understand UA-cam is a full-time job for him that's the only thing that makes sense to me.
I think some people are turned on by the size. I really want something small that sounds good and won't cost a lot. I am always tempted to buy something like this for the heck of it but then when I start to read the comments I decide not. But I do like my Chinese made APPJ-6f3 tube amp.
@@liegelord135 I have to agree with RKing. Every single Class D amp that I have ever heard sounds thin, veiled, and recessed compared to my Rotel RMB-1587. Class D is fine for tv watching, background music, and outdoor speakers, but for real music listening, you need a real amp. Period.
YES! So is LED lighting. Let's go back to candles. So are EV's, horse and carriage are so much better. Let's get rid of oil and gas, or solar panels, back to logfires in our livingroom. So much cosier! Stop building isolated houses with power and flowing water. Let's go back to living in damp caves, in the smoke of our logfire and the smell of our domesticated animals. You sir, are on the way of the dodo. Unable to adapt.
I don't understand why you do reviews on all those( cheap) Class D (Junk) amplifiers yes they do technically work and yes they will do some what of amplification but, they sound horrible and they give you absolutely no Headroom the cheapest amplifier from emotiva would be a much better option than that cheap stuff I just don't understand it.Just saying 🤷
These small amplifiers are great. I enjoyed my Aiyima way more than my Akai, Yamaha, Sony or Onkyo amplifiers. Just because it's a different technology doesn't mean it's sub-par. For your screens you are also not still running a CRT right?
His channel is literally called “CHEAP”audioman so he’s going to keep reviewing cheap audio gear including amps. You also need to get your 30 year old outdated view that class D = Junk because it doesn’t anymore. Most decent modern class D amp can keep up if not outperform some A/B amps well above their price tag. They have their purpose and for people getting started they are a perfect entry in to the world of HiFi which is what this channel is catering for. I have a Cambridge Audio CXA81 class A/B in my main set up, I also have a Fosi Audio V3 in my office which is about 1/8th the price, the Fosi is just as good and better when it comes to power output.
All modern studio monitors have class D amps in them. There's no reason to equate class D with junk. Like all amplification systems, it has benefits and limitations and you have to know how to use it to get the most performance out of it.
@@vmmotors1580 appreciate you watching and commenting. I’m in a tough spot. When I do vids on non chi fi products I get told I’m not the cheap audio man. When I do I get some comments about these being junk. I try to keep a balance. But it sounds like you’re a loyal viewer and I can only say there will be plenty more vids that hopefully will be more in your wheel house. Thanks again for watching and I hope you have a great holiday.
Merry Christmas to you and your family Randy!
The sound of an amplifier is affected by gang error and damping factor. In particular, for Class D amplifiers, the damping factor at high frequencies must be measured.
Why, exactly? And what's a good number?
@@chrlz904 The sound of an amplifier is equivalent to the result of equalization using the amplifier's output impedance (in other words, the damping factor) and the curve created by the resistor division of the speaker's impedance curve. This is a simple electrical principle, but do you understand it? Class D amplifiers experience resistor division in the same way as vacuum tube amplifiers, which changes the sound.
@@souzouno-yakata you sure do good word salad, while avoiding my point entirely. Amusingly, I do know what you are referring to, but you kinda missed the entire point, namely that if you waffle on to make it sound like you're one of a very select few... And do NOT address the obvious questions like how to measure the alleged problem, then it's all subjective bullshite and completely useless.
@@chrlz904 This is using Google Translate.
Did you get an answer that was different from what you intended?
@@souzouno-yakata so all that verbiage, yet the nearest you gave was "it changes the sound". You have completely ignored my question, which was HOW is it different? And, more importantly, how is that 'difference' MEASURABLE? If you had the required knowledge, you'd be telling us whether better D class amps manage to do it well, or are they all rubbish, and how op amps tie into all this... As it is you are just wasting time with waffle. Google translate isn't the issue.. if anyone else wishes to educate us with some OBJECTIVE discussion, feel free. Otherwise I'm out.
8:30 - The 3e Audio A7 desktop amp (recently reviewed on Matt Coykendall and Old Guy HiFi channels) comes with cutouts in the bottom of the case to facilitate rolling the op-amps. It even looks like the Burson op-amps will fit!
I'm missing the sign-off, Binge listen and fill your soul with happiness. It's a nice reminder, so easy to forget, what all this is about.
💯
@@danielwalsh8168 coming back!
Lovely review as always. Tiny little thang, isn’t it? Might have to grab one.
Merry Xmas & Happy New Year to you and the fam.
I've got a Douk Audio phono pre that I bought with my LP120 (because I'd read that the built-in preamp was lousy, and you're right; it IS lousy), and if it's the same circuitry as is in this little amp, it sounds very good. Perhaps not the absolute best out there, but I have no complaints.
Alternatives to thermal paste are thermal tape and graphene thermal pads. You'll need to figure out how thick a pad to use to make good contact between the two surfaces.
@@greatpix great tip
This is from the domain of PC Parts but i just saw a release of the type of thermal paste which is a type of putty/clay which you can use for a bit of large gaps (bet 0.2 to 3mm based on the specs of that brand). its from Thermal Grizzly, maybe you can look more into it with regards to detailed specs like the temperature ranges.
@@cheapaudioman
A word of caution here ... If you ever intend to re-open the case, don't use any thermal material that has bonding qualities. You'll just end up gluing it shut.
I bought a Nobsound Bluetooth amplifier for about 30 bucks a few years ago to power my outdoor speakers on the patio. It was pretty decent at first, but I decided to pick up a heavier duty 24 V power supply and that really improved sound quality and output substantially. It was a surprisingly good sounding system for very little money.
Thanks Randy!
Gotta love it when you can get Fun-Fi gear that can be upper end stocking stuffers for the younger audiophile generation coming up. Excellent video Randy, thanks dude.
Merry Christmas to you and yours and a Happy New Year to come.
@@WireHedd you too, brother. Thanks so much for always watching my silly rear end. Great seeing you on the lives!
Does the volume control the aux out? That would make it better for a sub.
Merry Christmas! Happy New Year!
@@FootballFinn you too!
A useful question that you could answer would be, " Would I add this to my system?" I feel like the answer in this video is no.
Well, Randy - if you have, already, opened the box/cabinet - you'd better take a look at the other side - the print board. Pretty often, these small, cheap devices ( amps, DACs...) have a residue of flux, which the manufacturer does not bother to clean up. If not removed, with time, it can cause problems....🤷♂
Rosin flux can remain on the circuit board forever with no degradation of conductors. You should learn to solder before making such ridiculous comments.
All these boards from Douk, Fosi, Aiyima etc are as clean as a whistle. Nothing hand soldered.
You really have no idea how prejudiced you are.
@@MrKentaroMotoPI
what ever helps u to sleep at night......
@@Jeep_on_audio
As a matter of FACT I DO have a pretty GOOD idea of what I'm saying....., but if u like it otherwise - it's YUOR MONEY ‼️🤷🏻♂️
I use a Macintosh D100 preamp and it's not great. I use lossless digital audio files, played back through a Mac Mini straight intro the preamp and then into a 12 channel Amp.
I used to have an analog B&W preamp, but I had to use a decoder in line before I got to the preamp and I just thought that was less than ideal.
I like having a gain controller on the preamp and I'm looking for an alternative.
No, I don't buy $10K speaker cables, so I'm not worried about "optical cable echos" etc. Thoughts?
i was excited this was going to be a review of an analog amp, but it's class D
Got a surprise for you... Class D is analog.
At no time is the input signal digitized, everything class D does is done in the analog domain.
@@Douglas_Blake Class D is PWM, just look into the data sheet of the chip. You are talking nonsense
@Kai-pcheck
Do a search for "Pulse Width Modulation" .... Wikipedia has a very clear explanation ... you'll see.
@Kai-pcheck Pulse width modulation (PWM) is a digital technique that can produce analog results. If you look at the output on a scope it is most definitely analog.
@@NotExpatJoe
Nope, not digital ... the variance in pulse widths is determined by an analog comparator that measures a timed ramp voltage against the analog input signal. The actual width variance is linear, thus analog.
Luxury alert. Is there a way not to get off your seat and go to the amp to have that satisfying twisting motion of the volume button if your already sitting next to a cupboard at the other end of the room?
. The Denafrips Enyo 15th with i2S included just dropped in price to $632.60
Acid Jazz, Funk & Brass🔈🔉🔊
I think these smaller amps are cool for smaller rooms where you don't need a full receiver.
Now that’s what I call cheap! In the mid seventies, the Infinity rep brought their first class D amp in for a listen…it was many $$$$. The bass was fantastic on a pair of Snell type A’s but everything else was so so. The class D chip sets have become really quite good, perhaps excellent in some cases, and many are a fantastic value considering what they can do. The Ice Power modules are darn close to many of the best analog amps. That’s a super pick Randy , and a candidate for cheapskate audio picks for 2024.
Mkay, but my Aiyima Tube T10 has digital inputs, and tone controls, and a USB input, and an analog input for phono. Yes I still need a phono stage, but that's ok. Won't this have a very basic phono stage? For class D I suppose its good to make things as simple as possible however.
What about Minimalist speakers? Figuring a small room. I currently ride a motorcycle full-time, so being able to put both speakers in my top box is basically the ‘size requirement’ I’m looking for.
Maybe not super minimalist in appearance, but in size/simplicity vs sound quality, perhaps iLoud Micro powered speakers?
@ Those do look very impressive, thanks for the suggestion !
@waffle911powered speakers, no need for this Amp, just a preamp.
ride a motorcycle "full time" wut?
@ It’s my only transportation right now.
Hi, the claimed output power of twice 300 W is ridiculously unreal. The power supply has a nominal 240 W.
300 W in 4 Ohms amount to a current of ~9 A_rms, for Stereo 18 A_rms. At twice 120 W that will still be 11 A_rms.
Did you see any traces inside, that could carry so much current ? Would you believe that the little power socket on the back is ok fpr that ? A test of the actual power capability would be welcome.
Do a search for "TPA3255 Data Sheet" ... the chip's actual capabilities are spelled out in enormous detail ... In fact the power vs distortion graph is right on the front page for all to see.
watts are not a decent unit
This is for desktop near range or in a small room at reasonable listening SPL. Not a loud party in a big room, you'd start distorting - although Efficient speakers would help.
@@PaulCrawhorn
I have a TPA3255 amplifier in my main system... htpc, dac, a07, pioneer towers ... in my living room.
I live half way back on the 6th floor of an apartment building.
Recently I did a full power test, just to see what the setup can do... Not only was it loud enough that it was hard to stay in the room with it, they heard it in the lobby office... and no audible distortion.
Don't underestimate these little amps. Technology has moved on and is producing some really big changes in the audio game. It is not longer true that Small amp means small power or small speakers. In fact these little TPA3255 amps are replacing audiophile amps the size of cement blocks and in many cases outdoing them.
I have an off topic question. I have a Advance Paris a12 and a dmp a6. How would you recommend running the a6, through the dac of the a12 or using the dac on the dmp a6. also what output would you use. just starting to get back into the hobby. BTW I just discovered your content and love it alot. keep up the good work.
Wow, damned if you do damned if you don't. Just don't get people sometimes. Personally I dig the mix of equipment you review. Keep up the good work man!
How does the phone stage compare to the one in the Wiim Ultra?
3e Audio Next-gen A7 Stereo amplifier has case cutouts for op amp swapping!
Is this considered just a pre-amp? If I plug a turntable phono, would I neither another device as the amplifier?
@@vasilisgiannatos1319 No this is integrated, will feed passive speakers, ideally efficient ones. But the Aux out would ALLOW this to be the preamp for source select, volume and tone control
Hi Randy, I noticed an aux out on the back. Does that allow it to be used as a preamp, or is that for a powered sub or something? Thanks.
I was wondering too. Sometimes these jacks are just a "Tape Out" and thus hooked in before the volume and tone controls. I found the following on Nobsound's eBay auction:
Besides banana speaker outputs, a 3.5mm AUX output is added to connect another amplifier or active speaker/subwoofer to build 2.1 or multi-channel audio system.
The 3.5mm AUX output and the speaker jacks output are controlled by the main volume and bass/treble synchronously.
The za3. Blew my 750 bookshelf
From making a popping noise on right channel
So. I took my carver amp that’s almost 40 y. Old.
Puts out. 450 w 8 ohm rms. Power
Or. 625x2. 4 ohm. Rms.
Would you recommend anything over the X2 preamp? I heard the X4 sounds bad
Out of stock…reminds me that any old receiver amp you pick up used (many for half this price) would be the best bet for people looking to start playing “their vinyls”.
Rockin Randy and the Redwoods....LOL
I dont get why you'd recommend something like this but then find all these reasons you dont like the wiim amp pro?
Oh isee, cos its got a phono input. Oh jeez
What is the maximum level of acustics for this amp?
Elac Debut 3 - too high? Dali spector 2 may be?
TPA3255 chip amps can drive just about any speaker out there. I have mine on a pair of pioneer towers and it works just fine. I've also heard them powering laScalas and L-100s which is a real treat.
They are a legitimate 100w RMS amplifier on 8 ohms and 200 on 4. Don't let the small size fool you.
Looks exactly like the Aiyima A06, that I think is out of stock. Looks, size, resources, position of knobs. Everything the same. And, as far as I remember, Aiyima and Douk are the same company
The A06 is a TDA7492 chip.... This is TPA3255... not the same.
@@Douglas_Blake If you know that it is a TPA3255, why do you claim in another comment that it is an analog amplifier ? This is a PWM chip.
@Kai-pcheck
PWM is an analog technique.
The way it works is that you generate a high power carrier of square waves at 50% duty cycle. Then you use the input signal to vary the width of the carrier pulses. Higher voltage produces a wider pulse. Lower voltage produces a narrower pulse. Like an FM carrier in a radio transmitter. To recover the amplified audio you just filter out the carrier wave.
It is all done in the analog domain.
The "D" designation does not mean "digital"... it is simply the next letter in the alphabet after A, AB and C.
@@Douglas_Blake I am familiar with PWM techniques. It is digital in the sense, that the power transistors are either on or off (1 or 0). That 's why they are also called "switch-mode amps". The analog input signal is sampled by the PWM-modulator. So you have sampling and switch-mode outputs. I call that digital.
Any DAC needs a reconstruction lowpass...
@@Douglas_Blake D means switch-mode. The output (power)transistors are either on or off. That is digital to me.
Noobsound. I don't care what options an amp has but I do care that it does what it does well. I can always add a component that does what it does well to be a phono pre-amp. Maybe you should do a phono pre-amp shoot out. Schiit Mani, Fosi Audio Box X5, JDS Atom Phono, Apampa A1 Mini, Douk Audio T9 HiFi Magic. All around the $150 mark.
Hey, I think the iFi Zen Phono 3 has earned it's spot in any shoot-out (yea, so it's more that $150, but then so was the Mani.)
Not sure that brand name will fly in the UK😂😂😂
That little thing is 300 watts? I always save old PC fans to cool this type of small Amps.
300 watts _per channel_ .... but at very high distortion.
With less than .1% distortion you can expect 100 watts rms on 8 ohms and 200 on 4.
The power supply has a nominal 240 Watts ... and I would not even believe that this thing could deliver 2 x 120 W
@Kai-pcheck
The TPA3255 chip is easily capable of 100w x 2 on 8 ohms with less than 0.01% distortion. Check out the TI data sheet....
@@Douglas_Blake The datasheet does not know what kind of power supply you use and how much cooling you provide. Please check out at what power level in 4 Ohms the chip melts off the board or burns out.
@Kai-pcheck
Do a search for "TPA3255 Data Sheet" and download it. Look at the power vs distortion chart on the front page. See the sharp bend at the right? That is the onset of clipping... Notice that the 8 ohm curve (red) "knees" at 100 watts and the 4 ohm curve knees at 200 watts. Those are the maximum safe ratings with a 48 volt supply.
The data sheet also describes proper mounting and cooling for the chip.
The chip is not going to burn out of melt off the board. It has full internal protection for temperature, overcurrent, DC offsets, over voltage and under voltage. Get outside the accepted parameters and it just shuts itself off.
Is AUX out for a subwoofer?
@@stephenhall3515 That is indeed the missing question. Audio man, did you address the sub issue? If you did I missed it, and it's a deal-breaker for me..
Turntable curious 😆
I see that Douk Audio now has the ST-01 Plus with phono and RCA in as well. Looks just like ST-01 Pro with VU meter but no tubes. Has 3255 chip and BT too.
Douk and NobSound == same company.
I still see people trashing on these, probably because they can't get their heads around miniaturization and technical progress.
Tell you what... take one of these little amps and cut it loose on a pair of Heresys or L-100s, both fine vintage speakers or maybe some modern Elac or Magnat Towers.
Really do it...
Any questions?
I wonder very deeply whether there are really honest opinions about audio equipment on this channel. I come to the conclusion that unfortunately there are not. Because in each episode Chipaudioman raves about the equipment he reviews. Is it possible that there are only super equipment on the market? Or maybe the reviews are not entirely objective? What is your opinion?
You want honesty ... okay...
The Fosi Audio V3Mono has a serious heat problem and is prone to failure.
The SMSL SU-1 DAC is not UAC complaint and is known to block the on-screen and multimedia volume controls of PCs.
The Fosi TB-10d has problems with board layout that reduces clarity in upper midrange signals.
I can go on and on and on like this ....
Reviews are *advertising* , nothing better.
Most likely a better turntable preamp than the Tom Evans Mastergroove SR MkIII. :D
I believe it's far far more likely that someday I'll add a subwoofer to my setup, as compared to the minuscule chance I'll ever need a phono input again. Thus for me, the Fosi amp (Amazon B07K7NJ4QN) is a much better choice, having both amped and line sub outputs, and even saves $30 over the one in the video. If 50x2 watts isn't enough, for $99 with coupon, the BT30D Pro has 165x2 but only amped sub out + pre out, no dedicated sub line out.
+1 for 300k subs
that aint cheap
NE5532 are dirt cheap op-amps, they sound terrible and they are the most counterfeited chips on earth.
When chip flipping the major gain is not in putting in exotic op-amps. It is in getting the NE5532s out of there. Good replacements that don't cost much are the RC4558 and RC4580... both under $2.00 each.
It is the other way round...
@Kai-pcheck
My testing says otherwise.
Please try to educate yourself beyond the marketing bullshit found on UA-cam.
@@Douglas_Blake I knew the NE5532 and related chips before youtube existed (45 years ago). Checkout Wikipedias report on the NE5532 and its siblings. Check out TI's datasheets of the NE5532 and the RC4558 and how they rate/classify them: RC4558 is "general purpose", NE5532 is "Low-noise / Audio".
@Kai-pcheck
Check out the input impedance, gain bandwidth product, output swing and slew rate. But pay particular attention to the fact that they NE5532 is NOT rated for differential inputs ... in fact it has input clamping diodes that limit it to 1.2v differental on it's inputs. This limitation was okay when audio was running at 700mv but today's equipment mostly runs at 2 volts or more. The RC4558 does not suffer that limitation, with specs that are otherwise, mostly identical.
Also the NE5532 has the rather dubious distinction of being one of the most frequently counterfeited chips on the market. Estimates have said that as many as 50% of them are actually rebranded "something else" chips taken from scrapped electronics.
Are any of these op-amps rated for 48 volts? Not likely. 😁
Lol this comment full of Audiophile Elites comment...... Get off with your 100k setup. This is for beginners, their ears are not that trained yet.
Never gave me one trouble almost 40 years old
Damn! Is that 300 watts per side peak rated at 2 ohms?lol... I have a pair of old Polk Monitor 10's and I may just pick this up to see if it can push them out in the garage :)
Okay ... it is 300 watts RMS per channel ... but not at 2 ohms and at very high distortion levels (10% or more). That is, it is the "you might get it to do this once" absolute maximum rating for the TPA3255 chip.
The actual implementation in each amplifier will temper that a bit. In testing various TPA3255 based amplifiers I typically find they will reliably produce a maximum of 100 RMS watts across an 8 ohm load or 200 across a 4 ohm load with very low distortion using a 48 volt supply.
On lower voltage supplies, you get a bit less power... typically 65 and 120 watts on 36 volts and 50 and 100 on 32 volts. But the amplifier also runs a lot cooler and will last longer without sacrificing sound quality. So, I typically recommend 36 volt 6 amp supplies for most of these amps.
Now don't get this wrong ... 100 watts is not to be sniffed at, even in the big monster amps you guys worship. For example one of the very best amplifiers currently being reviewed (the TS-A75) is 75 per channel and everyone is singing it's praises.
If you need to drive 2 ohms, this is not your amp. You would do better to pair up with the 3E Audio A7 which uses two TPA3255 chips in PBTL (Parallel Bridge Tied Load) mode to supplant the extra current needed by 2 ohm speakers. With the right power supply, that wee beasty can legitimately give you more than 400 watts per channel on 2 ohm loads.
Before you buy, do a search for "TPA3255 Data Sheet". That will give you a full disclosure of that the chip can and cannot do.
crap
👍
second.....
Who gives a s**** for that cheap Chinese garbage? You need DAC to use it. If you want cheap buy Yamaha 200$ receiver with all inputs.
Yeah I don't get it myself cheap Chinese junk I don't understand why Randy even takes the time to review these. I do understand UA-cam is a full-time job for him that's the only thing that makes sense to me.
Which Yamaha receiver?
I think some people are turned on by the size. I really want something small that sounds good and won't cost a lot. I am always tempted to buy something like this for the heck of it but then when I start to read the comments I decide not. But I do like my Chinese made APPJ-6f3 tube amp.
Class D is crap.
@@liegelord135 Sorry, but Class D sounds dry, sterile, and lifeless - especially when you're talking about these sub $150 Chinese toys.
@@liegelord135 I have to agree with RKing. Every single Class D amp that I have ever heard sounds thin, veiled, and recessed compared to my Rotel RMB-1587. Class D is fine for tv watching, background music, and outdoor speakers, but for real music listening, you need a real amp. Period.
YES!
So is LED lighting. Let's go back to candles.
So are EV's, horse and carriage are so much better.
Let's get rid of oil and gas, or solar panels, back to logfires in our livingroom. So much cosier!
Stop building isolated houses with power and flowing water. Let's go back to living in damp caves, in the smoke of our logfire and the smell of our domesticated animals.
You sir, are on the way of the dodo. Unable to adapt.
@@Jeep_on_audio
Yeah, but Class D is still crap.
I don't understand why you do reviews on all those( cheap) Class D (Junk) amplifiers yes they do technically work and yes they will do some what of amplification but, they sound horrible and they give you absolutely no Headroom the cheapest amplifier from emotiva would be a much better option than that cheap stuff I just don't understand it.Just saying 🤷
@@TheNLHAZE these are selling better and have affiliate links 🤷🏻♂️
If it sounds better than my NAD PPi2 then it GETS MY DRACHMA!
These small amplifiers are great. I enjoyed my Aiyima way more than my Akai, Yamaha, Sony or Onkyo amplifiers. Just because it's a different technology doesn't mean it's sub-par. For your screens you are also not still running a CRT right?
His channel is literally called “CHEAP”audioman so he’s going to keep reviewing cheap audio gear including amps. You also need to get your 30 year old outdated view that class D = Junk because it doesn’t anymore. Most decent modern class D amp can keep up if not outperform some A/B amps well above their price tag. They have their purpose and for people getting started they are a perfect entry in to the world of HiFi which is what this channel is catering for. I have a Cambridge Audio CXA81 class A/B in my main set up, I also have a Fosi Audio V3 in my office which is about 1/8th the price, the Fosi is just as good and better when it comes to power output.
All modern studio monitors have class D amps in them. There's no reason to equate class D with junk. Like all amplification systems, it has benefits and limitations and you have to know how to use it to get the most performance out of it.
The first first
First
Second
I am sorry, Randy, but no more Chi-fi. Junk. Amps
@@vmmotors1580 appreciate you watching and commenting. I’m in a tough spot. When I do vids on non chi fi products I get told I’m not the cheap audio man. When I do I get some comments about these being junk. I try to keep a balance. But it sounds like you’re a loyal viewer and I can only say there will be plenty more vids that hopefully will be more in your wheel house. Thanks again for watching and I hope you have a great holiday.
I know it’s tough Randy and everybody wants cheap audio equipment but they complain about quality
Me personally I used class a amp that was hand built by a guy that lives in Idaho that I know
But you’re doing an amazing job I do like your show thank you, Randy
But you’re doing an amazing job I do like your show thank you, Randy