Nice job- almost perfect layout with coated black iron pipe, drip legs, and drain cocks. At frame time 3:28 your drip leg drain is just above the 4x4 electrical box enclosure. Since the EBE is not a NEMA rated weatherproof box, I would lower the drip leg and drain cock at least 6" to 8" below the switch/receptacle- or to whatever length your local code requires. Best wishes!
Nice set up,,,I did the same piping but I used 3/4 inch copper and I did a 1/2 INCH COIL copper tubing from my pump to my tank,,, drops my temperature from 240 degrees at compressor to 62 degrees at tank,,,,looks like a alcohol still, lol,,but works great
@@arcounited I was going to use a air conditioning condenser,,,my worry was flow restriction,,,and I blow through the condener and saw a big difference in pressure coming out ,,and I see now where people are causing compressor problems because of the back pressure,,,,if you reduce down from 1/2 inch to 3/8 it stands to reason you will lose volume...thats my reasoning,,,and also the air is moving so fast I can't see where a fan would have a difference,,, the coils dissipate the heat because of the distance in the coils,,240 degrees at compressor to 62 at tank, simple and easy...
I ran the line off the compressor head to the cooling/drier piping through the water trap/filter and after it was all dry and cool sent it to the tank. The cooling pipe I pitched slightly down running horizontally back and forth along the wall keeping the moisture flowing away from the compressor toward the water separator which then went to the tank. This way the water drain is in reach and virtually no condensation ever reaches the tank. Just my .02
Dry air is key it makes all your air tools last much longer. I also have a plasma cutter and it works great. At 5:42 I put an air/water seperator rite before the hose reel and only drain it once a year.
If you put a 20-30 foot 'zig-zag' of 1/2" copper pipe directly out of the compressor head and then into the tank, the majority of the moisture should condense in the tank. Since the air is hottest directly out of the compressor head, that is the best point to extract the heat. The air loses its ability to suspend moisture, as it cools. Also, since the compressed air going into the tank has reduced in temperature (PV=nRT) you will get almost twice as much gas into the tank. The cooled air is denser, so certain air tools will work better: impact guns will hit harder, I know that. You have to uses compression fittings because straight out of the head, the temperature is high enough to weaken solder joints. Brazing would work but is is harder to do. Compression fittings should last ~100 years and are easily taken apart for service, expansion, or design change. I did this on my air compressor. I didn't ever notice moisture coming out of my tools again. There are automatic drains out there too. They are really neat, and small. There are a few different design configurations (timer, sensor, and "float" type). I like this Wilkerson type. It relatively inexpensive ($77), serviceable, and is carried at Walmart Overall, I like your unit.
+WAVETUBE84 You have some great ideas. I have seen one setup that had a car air conditioning condenser retrofitted to the compressor pump and then exited into the tank. I'm sure to do the same thing you are talking about. I am interested in those auto drains are the wilkerson drain's on a timer or a sensor? Thanks for Watching
Inline 6 CTD That Wilkerson unit is really interesting. It cycles once every time the compressor cycles. So, it blasts out just a little bit ot the volume. I don't know of its realiability? The "timer" typemay work fine, but I personally am not a fan. The various sensor type are more efficient. Some are 'zero' air volume loss (well just a tiny amount). But, when you complicate things, they become more expensive. If you just had a gallon reservoir to receive the condensation, you could do it manually, for just the price of a few pieces of copper pipe. I'm not a fan of iron pipe. I worked in a tool factory and was constantly called out to fix problems caused by little iron/rust particles in the equipment. When we went 100% copper pipe, we never had another problem. The use of a automobile (or ordinary refrigerant system) condensor blows my idea away. But, hey, I was just starting out. Well, that simple condenser coil seems to be really effectiv, cheap and simple. Yeah, they have a small internal diameter. But, 1/4" can flow >12CFM at 150PSI. So what, even shave off a few CFM. That's plenty of flow. Also, that is for the compressor out put, not the down stream sytream volume.
+WAVETUBE84 Yeah I was going to go with copper but the cost was alot more. I have seen some PVC systems but have heard of them exploding and sending shrapnel everywhere.The only thing that has held me back from putting a condenser between the pump and tank was because or the 1/4'' size I thought it would really slow down the speed of pressurizing the tank. But if your saying 12cfm it shouldn't make a huge diff. It sounds like you know your stuff thanks for all the info.
Inline 6 CTD I put a ball valve on the output of the tank as well. So when I was done using the air, I'd close the ball valve. The compressed air would stay for many weeks. The next time I needed some air, I didn't have to wait for the machine to pump it up. Compressed air costs money, so their is no need to waste it. One tip: I/2" and 3/4" impact guns hit much harder if you use the largest diameter fittings and hose.
+Jd Craft It seems that all the old compressors were horizontal but the last 15 years or so the vertical ones have become very popular. Glad you found one... Thanks for watching.
You put the third drain right next to an electrical outlet?? And shouldn't the tank be the highest point in the system? Otherwise it defeats the purpose, no? Cheers.
Yes it was not the best place to put that drain "above the outlet" and No the tank does not need to be the highest point. The heat from the compression process coming in contact with the cold steal tank and air lines is what causes the condensation issue. So the majority of the mosture will collect in the tank and first few feet of air lines. Thanks for watching!!
Hi Opolo... Michael Robinson left a similar comment check out 7:35. I was able to use all existing ports for all of the pluming. Where the tank drain is now is where the pressure regulator was when it was upright. Thanks for watching
you might want to put a slight slope on tank toward your drain it really looks like it is partway up the curve of the now end of tank so would be holding some water
+Michael Robinson Yeah it was a little scary cutting up my new compressor to reconfigure it for my needs. Its been running great for over a year. Thanks for watching!
That is strange... About 20 years ago they started to go to these vertical tanks here in the US. Only in the"high end" brands like Ingersol rand and quincy can you still get a horizonal tanks.The vert makes alot of sence because of a small footprint for a shop floor. For my app. I had to improvise. Great to hear for you!
Did you think twice..? Now the tank can't drain properly. It will last some times, but moisture harm tank side more than bottom, it rust easier now, surely it is your bises. I can see, you are good diy guy, so you can easily weld all back again..
That compressor is very close to the wall. Your compressor should be away from the wall in order for the fan to cool the pumps. I wouldn't never ever put the compressor up high anyway. Not a good idea.
Talk about devolution! The issue is I needed to put the compressor above the "floor" So I could save "floor space" and a vertical 60gal was to tall to go on the "cat walk". I just wish that horizontal tanks were still available in this size. They are not... so I built one and if anybody else needs to do it I hope my video helps someone else.
So you'll be taking up catwalk space, with limited height instead of floor space. Ok, I can see the logic of that. A family friend had his compressor on top of his garage rafters.
Yeah I have a 12ft sealing in my garage and have little real-estate on the floor between my lathe,welders,torch and tool box. I built the catwalk with the intention of putting a compressor up there. I never could find a 60gal horazonal tank so I built one and put it up there. Thanks for watching!!
Inline 6 CDT Great video. I like the isolation blocks. The new drain valve is not at the very bottom of the tank. It looks like your compressor will get some water build up before it even gets to the drain. You can raise up one end of the compressor slightly to get any moisture to go downhill towards the drain. You also could attach a pipe to the drain valve and drill a hole through your cat walk and put a ball valve below the catwalk. To drain the tank you could hold a bucket by the valve never have to climb up onto the cat walk to drain your compressor.
+Frank Vadnais Great observation. Those isolater blocks were bought at home depot for $20. They are made for a washing machine. I would love to have someway to drain the tank without climbing up on the catwalk and laying under the tank to drain it.
An easy way to drain the tank is to install a Truck air drain with a cable pull(hangs slightly my head), $10 on ebay. Just give it a pull when you want to drain. Mine drains into a coffee can with an old hand towel in it(compressor is above ceiling in my garage attic).
Thanks to share, the concept of your system is to reducing discharge temperature from air compressor but base on my experience.. to much connection and elbow caused high pressure drop and risk for leaking of air. Moreover the cost to make this system also high. High pressure drop means, you lost efficiency of your compressed air system. Suggest you to install water separator filter and automatic capacitive condensate drain as instead. It will solved as your simple system...
Hi thanks for sharing your comment. Yes all the elbows does add cost and more joints to potentially leak. I do have a water separator before the hose reel. But I have ran many different "stand alone" water separators and does not catch all or even most of the moisture. I have ran this system for more than a year and has worked great most of the moisture is caught in the "Zig Zag" and the rest is caught in the separator.Thanks for commenting!
+Michael Robinson Look at 7:35... I positioned the tank so where the pressure regulator was is now the drain. I was able to use all the existing pluming in the original tank with out drilling new holes.
+MrMrsregor Yeah good observation... I don't think it will make much difference the condensation in the pipe will go to the lowest area. But if I were to do it again I would have done it your way. Thanks for watching
So.... how is the ULTRA DRY air achieved?
Nice job- almost perfect layout with coated black iron pipe, drip legs, and drain cocks. At frame time 3:28 your drip leg drain is just above the 4x4 electrical box enclosure. Since the EBE is not a NEMA rated weatherproof box, I would lower the drip leg and drain cock at least 6" to 8" below the switch/receptacle- or to whatever length your local code requires. Best wishes!
Great observation... I'll be doing that this weekend. Good to hear from you!
Nice set up,,,I did the same piping but I used 3/4 inch copper and I did a 1/2 INCH COIL copper tubing from my pump to my tank,,, drops my temperature from 240 degrees at compressor to 62 degrees at tank,,,,looks like a alcohol still, lol,,but works great
Very cool... I was thinking of doing somthing similar but with a automobile "AC" condenser between the pump and tank. Thanks for watching!
@@arcounited I was going to use a air conditioning condenser,,,my worry was flow restriction,,,and I blow through the condener and saw a big difference in pressure coming out ,,and I see now where people are causing compressor problems because of the back pressure,,,,if you reduce down from 1/2 inch to 3/8 it stands to reason you will lose volume...thats my reasoning,,,and also the air is moving so fast I can't see where a fan would have a difference,,, the coils dissipate the heat because of the distance in the coils,,240 degrees at compressor to 62 at tank, simple and easy...
I ran the line off the compressor head to the cooling/drier piping through the water trap/filter and after it was all dry and cool sent it to the tank. The cooling pipe I pitched slightly down running horizontally back and forth along the wall keeping the moisture flowing away from the compressor toward the water separator which then went to the tank. This way the water drain is in reach and virtually no condensation ever reaches the tank. Just my .02
Sounds cool... Let me know when/if you get a video so i can check it out. Thanks for watching!
I'm thinking about buying an Everlast plasma cutter. I understand that plasma cutters work best with dry air. I will give your ideas a try.
Dry air is key it makes all your air tools last much longer. I also have a plasma cutter and it works great. At 5:42 I put an air/water seperator rite before the hose reel and only drain it once a year.
If you put a 20-30 foot 'zig-zag' of 1/2" copper pipe directly out of the compressor head and then into the tank, the majority of the moisture should condense in the tank. Since the air is hottest directly out of the compressor head, that is the best point to extract the heat. The air loses its ability to suspend moisture, as it cools. Also, since the compressed air going into the tank has reduced in temperature (PV=nRT) you will get almost twice as much gas into the tank. The cooled air is denser, so certain air tools will work better: impact guns will hit harder, I know that. You have to uses compression fittings because straight out of the head, the temperature is high enough to weaken solder joints. Brazing would work but is is harder to do. Compression fittings should last ~100 years and are easily taken apart for service, expansion, or design change. I did this on my air compressor. I didn't ever notice moisture coming out of my tools again. There are automatic drains out there too. They are really neat, and small. There are a few different design configurations (timer, sensor, and "float" type). I like this Wilkerson type. It relatively inexpensive ($77), serviceable, and is carried at Walmart Overall, I like your unit.
+WAVETUBE84 You have some great ideas. I have seen one setup that had a car air conditioning condenser retrofitted to the compressor pump and then exited into the tank. I'm sure to do the same thing you are talking about. I am interested in those auto drains are the wilkerson drain's on a timer or a sensor?
Thanks for Watching
Inline 6 CTD That Wilkerson unit is really interesting. It cycles once every time the compressor cycles. So, it blasts out just a little bit ot the volume. I don't know of its realiability? The "timer" typemay work fine, but I personally am not a fan. The various sensor type are more efficient. Some are 'zero' air volume loss (well just a tiny amount). But, when you complicate things, they become more expensive. If you just had a gallon reservoir to receive the condensation, you could do it manually, for just the price of a few pieces of copper pipe. I'm not a fan of iron pipe. I worked in a tool factory and was constantly called out to fix problems caused by little iron/rust particles in the equipment. When we went 100% copper pipe, we never had another problem. The use of a automobile (or ordinary refrigerant system) condensor blows my idea away. But, hey, I was just starting out. Well, that simple condenser coil seems to be really effectiv, cheap and simple. Yeah, they have a small internal diameter. But, 1/4" can flow >12CFM at 150PSI. So what, even shave off a few CFM. That's plenty of flow. Also, that is for the compressor out put, not the down stream sytream volume.
+WAVETUBE84 Yeah I was going to go with copper but the cost was alot more. I have seen some PVC systems but have heard of them exploding and sending shrapnel everywhere.The only thing that has held me back from putting a condenser between the pump and tank was because or the 1/4'' size I thought it would really slow down the speed of pressurizing the tank. But if your saying 12cfm it shouldn't make a huge diff. It sounds like you know your stuff thanks for all the info.
Inline 6 CTD I put a ball valve on the output of the tank as well. So when I was done using the air, I'd close the ball valve. The compressed air would stay for many weeks. The next time I needed some air, I didn't have to wait for the machine to pump it up. Compressed air costs money, so their is no need to waste it. One tip: I/2" and 3/4" impact guns hit much harder if you use the largest diameter fittings and hose.
All good points. I'm looking for ideas for a dryer for my powerplasma cutter setup but I don't have much room and don't have much money!
i have a 20hp 60 gal flat compressor it got it at a auction at an old highschool
+Jd Craft It seems that all the old compressors were horizontal but the last 15 years or so the vertical ones have become very popular. Glad you found one... Thanks for watching.
You put the third drain right next to an electrical outlet?? And shouldn't the tank be the highest point in the system? Otherwise it defeats the purpose, no? Cheers.
Yes it was not the best place to put that drain "above the outlet" and No the tank does not need to be the highest point. The heat from the compression process coming in contact with the cold steal tank and air lines is what causes the condensation issue. So the majority of the mosture will collect in the tank and first few feet of air lines. Thanks for watching!!
Ah, ok. I'm trying to figure out how to best build one of these. Thanks!
what about moister in the tank .i dont see a drain ..BAD IDEA PEOPLE BAD
Look at 7:36... GOOD IDEA PEOPLE GOOD!!
only issue ull have is the drain valve now cant drain tank
Hi Opolo... Michael Robinson left a similar comment check out 7:35. I was able to use all existing ports for all of the pluming. Where the tank drain is now is where the pressure regulator was when it was upright. Thanks for watching
you might want to put a slight slope on tank toward your drain it really looks like it is partway up the curve of the now end of tank so would be holding some water
It is at the very bottom of the tank but I could easily put it on a slight slope toward the drain with the adjustable legs. Thanks for watching
The compressor is very close to the wall, needs distance from The wall for the fan to cool the pomp.
Welding on a tank. Hard pass.
OK. I'm building my own compressor now and your video gave me some good ideas. Thanks again for posting!
+Michael Robinson Yeah it was a little scary cutting up my new compressor to reconfigure it for my needs. Its been running great for over a year. Thanks for watching!
Here in UK there are barely any vertical compressors. Certainly none of the big ones are vertical. Strange how its the opposite in the USA.
That is strange... About 20 years ago they started to go to these vertical tanks here in the US. Only in the"high end" brands like Ingersol rand and quincy can you still get a horizonal tanks.The vert makes alot of sence because of a small footprint for a shop floor. For my app. I had to improvise. Great to hear for you!
So, you have outlets on drain legs?
Yes... just 1/2""ball valves to crack open for draining moisture.
Did you think twice..? Now the tank can't drain properly. It will last some times, but moisture harm tank side more than bottom, it rust easier now, surely it is your bises. I can see, you are good diy guy, so you can easily weld all back again..
Not sure what you mean... At 7:36 is the tank drain
That compressor is very close to the wall. Your compressor should be away from the wall in order for the fan to cool the pumps.
I wouldn't never ever put the compressor up high anyway. Not a good idea.
Yeah but your glass is always half emply Dan 🥛
Uh the reason they are made vertical is to take up LESS SPACE !
What's this madness you speak of!!
The vertical air compressor took 100 years to develop. It allows one to not have that big long unit take up valuable floor space !
Talk about devolution! The issue is I needed to put the compressor above the "floor" So I could save "floor space" and a vertical 60gal was to tall to go on the "cat walk". I just wish that horizontal tanks were still available in this size. They are not... so I built one and if anybody else needs to do it I hope my video helps someone else.
So you'll be taking up catwalk space, with limited height instead of floor space. Ok, I can see the logic of that. A family friend had his compressor on top of his garage rafters.
Yeah I have a 12ft sealing in my garage and have little real-estate on the floor between my lathe,welders,torch and tool box. I built the catwalk with the intention of putting a compressor up there. I never could find a 60gal horazonal tank so I built one and put it up there. Thanks for watching!!
Inline 6 CDT Great video. I like the isolation blocks. The new drain valve is not at the very bottom of the tank. It looks like your compressor will get some water build up before it even gets to the drain. You can raise up one end of the compressor slightly to get any moisture to go downhill towards the drain.
You also could attach a pipe to the drain valve and drill a hole through your cat walk and put a ball valve below the catwalk. To drain the tank you could hold a bucket by the valve never have to climb up onto the cat walk to drain your compressor.
+Frank Vadnais Great observation. Those isolater blocks were bought at home depot for $20. They are made for a washing machine. I would love to have someway to drain the tank without climbing up on the catwalk and laying under the tank to drain it.
An easy way to drain the tank is to install a Truck air drain with a cable pull(hangs slightly my head), $10 on ebay. Just give it a pull when you want to drain. Mine drains into a coffee can with an old hand towel in it(compressor is above ceiling in my garage attic).
Yeah I work in the trucking industry I know just what your talking about.Those would work great!! Thanks for the comment.
Thanks to share, the concept of your system is to reducing discharge temperature from air compressor but base on my experience.. to much connection and elbow caused high pressure drop and risk for leaking of air.
Moreover the cost to make this system also high.
High pressure drop means, you lost efficiency of your compressed air system.
Suggest you to install water separator filter and automatic capacitive condensate drain as instead.
It will solved as your simple system...
Hi thanks for sharing your comment. Yes all the elbows does add cost and more joints to potentially leak. I do have a water separator before the hose reel. But I have ran many different "stand alone" water separators and does not catch all or even most of the moisture. I have ran this system for more than a year and has worked great most of the moisture is caught in the "Zig Zag" and the rest is caught in the separator.Thanks for commenting!
Nice setup dude and BONUS COOL POINTS for modding your own tank pretty sweet.
+pressgreen Thanks for watching.
Very nice setup! Did you add a new tank drain since the original was on bottom of tank ?
+Michael Robinson Look at 7:35... I positioned the tank so where the pressure regulator was is now the drain. I was able to use all the existing pluming in the original tank with out drilling new holes.
nice set up! i would have put the drains on the up legs of the dryer and not the down legs. but nice system thanks for sharing
+MrMrsregor Yeah good observation... I don't think it will make much difference the condensation in the pipe will go to the lowest area. But if I were to do it again I would have done it your way. Thanks for watching
thanks for taking the time to show it off. this is my next project
Did your roof blow off yet? ; ) Great Vid!!
LOL not yet... 3yrs + and still running perfect! Thanks for watching!!!