Thanks for saving me money, as I was about to buy a spool of PCTG. Your channel is one of my favorites. Hope Prusa gives you some attention. Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks, you're doing a great service not only for consumers making a decision but for producers who need to know that independents are keeping close track of them.
A minor point: PETG isn't PET with added glycol. PET is made by polymerising ethylene glycol with terephthalic acid. PETG is made in the same way but with some or all of the glycol substituted by a different monomer, such as CHDM, which reduces the crystallinity. PETG is PET with less glycol.
As pointed out by someone else, I honestly think that the addition of graphite affects the strength of the filament. If you looms for comparison at PLA, black matt is almost always the weakest filament. I'm now using PCTG clear myself and I'm really impressed by its strength tbh.
Could be. I'm new to printing, I have black PCTG, transparent PETG and some metallic PETG. PCTG seems to be in the middle. Clear PETG has very good layer adhesion, but it can be somewhat brittle in more layers, but it's very durable. Metallic PETG feels to have average layer adhesion, sometimes it breaks even I'm removing skirts and sometimes it has less shiny finish and it has worse stringing ... basically it's worse at everything except the look. PCTG feels about as hard to bend, but i guess it can be bend more before it breaks and from here I guess it can absorb more energy on impact it both materials fail. I would say that matte white PLA is weakest from what I have, it has poor layer adhesion and it does not even stick well to itself in XY direction or wall can be torn apart from infill.
Very comprehensive testing, but I think you should really have compared two clear unfilled filaments for this to be a fair test. Filament manufacturers base their materials claims on bulk raw plastics, and this never takes into account the changes that may take place when 3D printing, but fillers and pigments also modify filament properties and they can have a huge impact on characteristics. I printed some premium brand gold PETG a couple of years ago, and the micaceous filler used to give it sparkle so severely weakened the material that the resulting prints were unusable and shattered like spun sugar. I would be very interested to see this repeated with a clear PCTG to see if this makes a difference.
Eh, PCTG too expensive just to repeat something like this. Specs are given independent from color anyway. (small channel like mine earns only few bucks per video and if I am not curious about the project, I don't want to invest and be minus with the budget). But if you will buy that nature PCTG and send it to me, I will be happy to test it. Currently I am more curious about Prusament filaments, collecting donations for it ;-)
I tested Fiberlogy PCTG and compared it to RealFilament PETG. Basically my conclusion (though by far not as extensively tested as you did) was the same. I had a hotend - extruder direct drive mount made of this Fiberlogy PCTG and found that the layers showed fatigue cracks after a few months of usage. The claim of unidirectional strength I did not see even I reduced the fan speed to achieve better layer adhesion.
Thank you. I bought Lithuanian maker filalab pctg and will try to compare with petg. I heard essentium has good advertising, but never tested this out. Although I think filament makers are become a marketing gimmicks like all the other industries. I will still give it a try with flalab
@@dzitiatri i used filalab pla as my first filament. absolutly loved it, gonna try their petg spools, hopefully it stands up to my expectation. also price wise it's pretty good here in latvia
Thank you very much for your thorough, comprehensive, informative video. It’s amazing to see how dedicated you are to science of 3-D printing. You must team up with Stefan from CNC kitchen.
That you for those results! I am very disappointed that PCTG is so unimpressive. I feel like you could get better results just by using a PETG blend that increases impact resistance. Similar to what companies do with PLA+.
Yeah, it's absolutely the color additives. This test didn't control for the one obvious factor and is thus completely invalid, which is a shame because it would be great to know these results from the same manufacturer even.
Wow, good Test. I am actially test it for my Cell Holders. I print it with 260 and the Results have a better haptict then PETG. But i used PETG from DasFilament in Comparison to this Filamentum PCTG. I will turn on testing..
This comparison is not typical because fiberology petg i better then most other petg. Comparing pctg to other brands of petg will give you a bigger difference between the materials. Fiberology should be commended for providing this material in varieties of colors but at the same time they keep raising the cost. The cost now is significantly higher then it was in this video. Add the fact that you only get 750g instead 1kg of material and the cost is too high. I prefer working with pctg over petg as it does print better with less stringing and has a wide range of temperatures where it is effective (does require higher temps than petg but works well in a larger temp range). I like pctg and wish more companies would make it at a more reasonable price. Also wish fiberology would use 1kg spools and offer bigger ones.
I've been using this PCTG for some time and it completely blows PETG out of the water. I print 270C with 5% cooling fan. I've also found it can be annealed but crystalizes VERY slowly. It takes a 3 hours at 120C to fully crystalize and shrinkage is around 5% (z is +5%) without packing. I salt pack anything that can collapse when soft and shrinkage that way is also minimal. I would be very interested to see some of your rigorous testing done on annealed samples as well!
about matches my findings on the material. I'm tempted to give it another try now that I have a printer that can safely handle 270C print temperatures. I found that I got best results with the cooling fan completely off for everything except steep overhangs and bridging.
Eh, yes. Prusa product reviews you will see only on popular channels and I have a feeling that they may be sponsored too. Anyway, no reply from prusa so far, so I ordered all 4 prusament types (PLA, PETG, ASA and PC Blend). The PC Blend CF version will be in separate video. Maybe directly compared to non CF version.
Excelent videos! I can't thank you enough. I have a couple of questions: If the filaments print well at the higher end of the temperature range, why not print them at that temperature for improved layer adhesion? and the other question is: PCTG can crystallize, I wonder how the mechanical properties of PCTG improve when annealed.
When I am doing a comparison video, I always try to test in the middle of recommended temperature range. That's what most users will do. Hi temp may also case problems with oozing, overhangs, stringing.. of course, I have a temp tower for that, but again, most stock Enders cannot print above 240C (in this case PETG) or if user have all metal hotend, atill have limitation of 260C by firmware (PCTG). If I do only one material full test, then this is also one of testing parameters (temp vs layer adhesion)
@@MyTechFun Yes, I thought that taking the median temperature would be the prudent thing to do for the test considering there was no noticable changes in print quality across the three temperatures in the test tower, how ever in real world printing I would have taken the highest temperature possible before any quality degradation purley for the increased adhesion properties of higher temp plastic.
I noticed you printed the petg parts with 30% cooling and pctg with 50%. In my testing with pctg and petg cooling makes a huge difference in layer adhesion. For the most parts you probaly dont even need part cooling. So I am not sure this is a fair comparison
In these comparison videos I am just following the instructions from manufacturer. Before test I even contacted Fiberlogy about this question and they confirm this (no need for enclosure+fan speeds). If you have the enclosure, maybe ABS or ASA is a better choice.
i am not sure if using an enclosure has as much of an impact on strength and layer adhesion as turning off part cooling. I get it that you are using the suggested print settings, but in my testing it turns out that turning off the fan makes a huge difference.
I tested 30% vs. 50% (MK3S+) on this PCTG, and it makes no difference to layer-adhesion. It only gets much better when turned off. As soon as I applied enough cooling to visibly improve overhangs, layer adhesion suffered (same for PCTG and PETG).
Those results pretty much confirm my own tests. PCTG is basically the same as PETG. The claims of much better layer adhesion and much better impact resistance are both false.
@@MyTechFun I saw all your PCTG tests. Another reviewer claims it gets much sturdier and heat resistant after temperature annealing. Then turns from transparent color to white color and is much stronger than PETG. Would be great if there is an alternative to PETG which can resist more temperature and isn't unhealthy at printing. ASA/ABS/PC/(PA) all have very bad additives which are very unhealthy. PC and other plastic layers will be forbitten for food containers next year in our country due to Bisphenol additives. Bishphenol is rated 10000x worse now for health safety than in former times when it was released. It will be banned from inner coating for (beverage) cans.
Great comparison video! I have only used Fiberlogy PETG dark red and dark blue before, because I wanted those colours for some specific prints. Printed ok, but nothing special. For PCTG, I think Essentium has a good version and Fiberlogy just tried to copy the idea, but I am not sure if they got the recipe right. I would not use their PCTG to be honest. I have found that RealFilaments and FormFutura PETG are quite good in quality and if I want to go cheap I go for Filament PM or Amazon basics that is surprisingly good for the price. Also I don't get why the use so much plastic for their spools, since a lot of companies are either going for cardboard spools or at least spools with holes like Prusament to use less plastic.
Thanks for the tips, probably I will test Essentium too. And yes, I could mention that in the video, so much waste material stays in spool holder after it is empty. I like those new cardboard spools (for example Polymakers)
hello !! about comparison .. i think there is wrong but not sure maybe you can correct me if i am wrong .. u need to make fan cooling test to see the best cooling for each filament different cooling speed will make different results !!! so i am not sure if that fair comparison!!! .. and by the way you are one of the best UA-cam especially in 3D ,, i have learned allots from your video .. regards
Great video. Only wish that somehow you could also test UV resistance. Because I am looking for filaments other than ASA for outdoor applications. But that would be a very longlasting and timeconsuming test. But maybe doable by hanging an object under load in different filaments outside for a couple of months in the spring and summer.
I really HATE the design of the Fiberlogy rolls. They just waste space (often a problem in dry-filament-boxes), there are not many places to put the filament-end, and they offer no benefit at all.
It's aesthetically pleasing but very wasteful. In a grand survey of empty-spool weights, theirs came in second after i forget which spool that doesn't exist any longer, and it was quite distant to the rest. There isn't even a lip to attach your own filament end-clip. To the end of reducing spool waste, they do offer Masterspool-compatible refills, so that's something you can take them up on.
@@uhu4677 i think the best if eu could just make recycle point. I have used over 100 spools and thrown them to plastic waste. But they could easily be recycled, because: they are from 1 single material , their are made from PC or ABS, easy shape to crush, they can be used to make filament or be reused. But whole EU and US, dont give a fuck as long as all makers can get cheap filament granules from china.
Thank you for logical review. In Lithuania we also have fiberlogy as Poland is our neighbour and it isn't very far to deliver from. I think it has one of the best qualities for it's price, just before prusa material. All devil design and spectrum and gembird were good, but they were unstable at the production during different time, usually with inconsistent diameter of filament, dusts humidity issues and etc. Also congrats to Hungary in elections for showing how they love their families, your country is my idol right now in the whole EU.
Hi Igor, great video, as always. Have you tried contacting Fiberlogy for comment on your results? Many people will be buying their PCTG filament (and paying a lot more) because of the specification. It would be interesting to know why Fiberlogy claim such a high impact resistance when your test results show a very different results.
They wasnt happy and they explain weaker results with assumption that I used too much part cooling (30% instead 25%). But even if so, that may affect only layer adhesion, not impact and other tests.
That was dissapointing about pctg, i guess pla and petg plus the use of ASA in enclosure when need more thermal resistance and best uv resistance as I been doing is just to continue on.
it's a very intresting test, 'cause i was trying to get PCTG - and got PETG (wrong label, at least a temp-tower - what i always print - showed that it was the wrong filament). i'm struggling a bit, 'cause "normal" settings can't be used here (i see wich you had there; irony, mine are a little bit higher for PETG - almost similar for PCTG (230°c), 'cause that was the temperature what was shown for me the best), i had to fiddle on several settings (print temperature (especially first layer), print speeds, bed temperature (especially first layer), cooling flow etc.) to get "usable" results. i might even had another spool of PETG here (different brand), so i'll see if that one is better - 'cause it seems, that my spool is from a bad quality (maybe even 'cause it was wrong labeled). for The spool design - it's nicht to look at, but bad when your printer (a artillery genius for my part) doesn't had a single "hook" for printing, as even 2 rolls - 'cause then the spool will brake itself a bit from scratching at the side of one of the spool-holders. maybe i can change that with a different part, 'cause it seems that's 'cause of the filament-runout-sensor (so i just need that to relocate). for my part, that shows me, that i might not try to get PCTG again (these little bit "more temperature" isn't something what i would need - it was easier the "talk that is a alternative and as easy to print as pla) - and might stay with PETG.
Did you know the same type, same model and made by same producer filament, but different color have different properties because of different pigment? This difference should be even bigger if there is no pigment in a filament, I think you should repeat the test with the same color filaments.
I am shocked by the results of the izod test. The technical notation is that Petg 5 kj/M2 a pctg 92kj/m2, Am I misunderstanding something, that your izod test results came out very similar?
Very good video and test 👍 Pctg is a garbage of material...i did test diferent brands of it and is a waste of money.. petg is 99% similar and much more cheaper.
Aren't colorants basically impurities? Wouldn't the clear filament likely have an advantage due to the extra emphasis on eliminating impurities overall (for better clarity)? Either way, that PCTG underperformed, either because it's overrated or that manufacturer isn't very good at PCTG.
@@MyTechFun They also have CPE HT but it is more expensive , 0,75kg spool and only in one color. They compare it to PC but easier to print. It is also cheaper than PC Blend by +/- 25 euros
@@AndrzejBrudniak The comparison to PC is probably bogus. I have CPE HT here. I print it at 290°C nozzle and 115°C bed (which is about the maximum of my MK3S+ ... higher might be even better). It warps a lot easier than PETG/PCTG. However I have yet to print PC to see, if that's even harder. The mechanical properties are VERY similar with one exception: When pulling it doesn't snap, but slowly yields. Didn't test the temperature resistence yet.
Problem if they are variant for ISO IZOD 180, test can make with Edgewise or Flatwise, notched or not, and different size of notched, many constructor no indicate the precise Test, soo, all have different result, and some try to cheat you with big value in J/m.... xD
PETG and PCTG is (basically) the same material. Check "Essentium Materials Guide: PCTG - Part 2". They explain, that when you start modifying PET with CHDM, it becomes PETG ... and if you add even more, it becomes PCTG. They make the distinction at 50%. But I doubt there's an absolute border. Who knows ... there might be PETG out there, which has actually more CHDM than the PCTG of Fiberlogy.
I applaud your methodology, but your sample selection was fatally flawed so the results are quite useless. You are comparing clear PETG with matt-died PCTG As many others have commented, non-clear filaments usually have significantly lower properties (especially matt), so your conclusions instead of being informing, are misleading and should not be published. You would to well to repeat the test with both samples clear and replace this video.
Thanks for saving me money, as I was about to buy a spool of PCTG. Your channel is one of my favorites. Hope Prusa gives you some attention.
Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks, you're doing a great service not only for consumers making a decision but for producers who need to know that independents are keeping close track of them.
A minor point: PETG isn't PET with added glycol. PET is made by polymerising ethylene glycol with terephthalic acid. PETG is made in the same way but with some or all of the glycol substituted by a different monomer, such as CHDM, which reduces the crystallinity. PETG is PET with less glycol.
Wait, CHDM is one of the monomers for PCTG. So basically, PETG is a mix of PET and PCTG?
@@tanvach No, it doesn't mean that. It means that each long-chain molecule is likely to contain a mix of monomers.
As pointed out by someone else, I honestly think that the addition of graphite affects the strength of the filament. If you looms for comparison at PLA, black matt is almost always the weakest filament. I'm now using PCTG clear myself and I'm really impressed by its strength tbh.
Could be. I'm new to printing, I have black PCTG, transparent PETG and some metallic PETG. PCTG seems to be in the middle. Clear PETG has very good layer adhesion, but it can be somewhat brittle in more layers, but it's very durable. Metallic PETG feels to have average layer adhesion, sometimes it breaks even I'm removing skirts and sometimes it has less shiny finish and it has worse stringing ... basically it's worse at everything except the look. PCTG feels about as hard to bend, but i guess it can be bend more before it breaks and from here I guess it can absorb more energy on impact it both materials fail.
I would say that matte white PLA is weakest from what I have, it has poor layer adhesion and it does not even stick well to itself in XY direction or wall can be torn apart from infill.
I have no idea if the hardness tests are useful or not but I hope you continue the tests anyway! Love your test videos
Very comprehensive testing, but I think you should really have compared two clear unfilled filaments for this to be a fair test. Filament manufacturers base their materials claims on bulk raw plastics, and this never takes into account the changes that may take place when 3D printing, but fillers and pigments also modify filament properties and they can have a huge impact on characteristics. I printed some premium brand gold PETG a couple of years ago, and the micaceous filler used to give it sparkle so severely weakened the material that the resulting prints were unusable and shattered like spun sugar. I would be very interested to see this repeated with a clear PCTG to see if this makes a difference.
Eh, PCTG too expensive just to repeat something like this. Specs are given independent from color anyway. (small channel like mine earns only few bucks per video and if I am not curious about the project, I don't want to invest and be minus with the budget). But if you will buy that nature PCTG and send it to me, I will be happy to test it. Currently I am more curious about Prusament filaments, collecting donations for it ;-)
I tested Fiberlogy PCTG and compared it to RealFilament PETG. Basically my conclusion (though by far not as extensively tested as you did) was the same. I had a hotend - extruder direct drive mount made of this Fiberlogy PCTG and found that the layers showed fatigue cracks after a few months of usage. The claim of unidirectional strength I did not see even I reduced the fan speed to achieve better layer adhesion.
Thank you. I bought Lithuanian maker filalab pctg and will try to compare with petg. I heard essentium has good advertising, but never tested this out. Although I think filament makers are become a marketing gimmicks like all the other industries. I will still give it a try with flalab
@@dzitiatri i used filalab pla as my first filament. absolutly loved it, gonna try their petg spools, hopefully it stands up to my expectation. also price wise it's pretty good here in latvia
@@hashbringer975 they are quite good for the price. Better than devil design or spectrum.
thank you for the honesty and clarity of these tests. these make a good choice very easy.
I really like your in depth technical videos.
I love both of these fiberlogy materials
Thank you very much for your thorough, comprehensive, informative video. It’s amazing to see how dedicated you are to science of 3-D printing. You must team up with Stefan from CNC kitchen.
He is much better than stefan. More honest and straightforward . Stefan uses science in a germanic way.
@@viralvideo3739Emoji's cannot express how I was laughing 🤣😂😆Thank you.
@@viralvideo3739 What is the "Germanic way"? I'm curious as I've never heard that before.
Textured PEI sheet is my go to for basically everything even for TPU its perfect.
That you for those results! I am very disappointed that PCTG is so unimpressive. I feel like you could get better results just by using a PETG blend that increases impact resistance. Similar to what companies do with PLA+.
Yeah, it's absolutely the color additives. This test didn't control for the one obvious factor and is thus completely invalid, which is a shame because it would be great to know these results from the same manufacturer even.
Thank you for the testing.
Wow, good Test. I am actially test it for my Cell Holders. I print it with 260 and the Results have a better haptict then PETG. But i used PETG from DasFilament in Comparison to this Filamentum PCTG. I will turn on testing..
This comparison is not typical because fiberology petg i better then most other petg. Comparing pctg to other brands of petg will give you a bigger difference between the materials. Fiberology should be commended for providing this material in varieties of colors but at the same time they keep raising the cost. The cost now is significantly higher then it was in this video. Add the fact that you only get 750g instead 1kg of material and the cost is too high. I prefer working with pctg over petg as it does print better with less stringing and has a wide range of temperatures where it is effective (does require higher temps than petg but works well in a larger temp range). I like pctg and wish more companies would make it at a more reasonable price. Also wish fiberology would use 1kg spools and offer bigger ones.
Thanks for useful info
I've been using this PCTG for some time and it completely blows PETG out of the water. I print 270C with 5% cooling fan.
I've also found it can be annealed but crystalizes VERY slowly. It takes a 3 hours at 120C to fully crystalize and shrinkage is around 5% (z is +5%) without packing. I salt pack anything that can collapse when soft and shrinkage that way is also minimal.
I would be very interested to see some of your rigorous testing done on annealed samples as well!
270, 30% fan gives excellent results for PCTG from my experience.
about matches my findings on the material. I'm tempted to give it another try now that I have a printer that can safely handle 270C print temperatures. I found that I got best results with the cooling fan completely off for everything except steep overhangs and bridging.
Very interesting and useful.
Typical of Prusa to ignore you I guess - if you can't do something for Josef's personal reputation it's no deal.
Eh, yes. Prusa product reviews you will see only on popular channels and I have a feeling that they may be sponsored too. Anyway, no reply from prusa so far, so I ordered all 4 prusament types (PLA, PETG, ASA and PC Blend). The PC Blend CF version will be in separate video. Maybe directly compared to non CF version.
Excelent videos! I can't thank you enough. I have a couple of questions: If the filaments print well at the higher end of the temperature range, why not print them at that temperature for improved layer adhesion? and the other question is: PCTG can crystallize, I wonder how the mechanical properties of PCTG improve when annealed.
wow , i had the same thoughts about the higher temp ...
2 great questions!
When I am doing a comparison video, I always try to test in the middle of recommended temperature range. That's what most users will do. Hi temp may also case problems with oozing, overhangs, stringing.. of course, I have a temp tower for that, but again, most stock Enders cannot print above 240C (in this case PETG) or if user have all metal hotend, atill have limitation of 260C by firmware (PCTG). If I do only one material full test, then this is also one of testing parameters (temp vs layer adhesion)
@@MyTechFun Yes, I thought that taking the median temperature would be the prudent thing to do for the test considering there was no noticable changes in print quality across the three temperatures in the test tower, how ever in real world printing I would have taken the highest temperature possible before any quality degradation purley for the increased adhesion properties of higher temp plastic.
Oh I see. Thanks!
I like the filament from Fiberlogy but don't like their spools. Nice Video!
Interesting, so many comments mentioned their spools. Wasting a lot of plastic.
great video and test as always 👍
ASA could be an option too, Love that filament
Love your relaxed approach 👍😀
Thx, yes ASA is better than ABS (less warping and fumes)
I noticed you printed the petg parts with 30% cooling and pctg with 50%. In my testing with pctg and petg cooling makes a huge difference in layer adhesion. For the most parts you probaly dont even need part cooling. So I am not sure this is a fair comparison
I totally agree with DanO and also add that an enclosure is important for PCTG, IMHO.
In these comparison videos I am just following the instructions from manufacturer. Before test I even contacted Fiberlogy about this question and they confirm this (no need for enclosure+fan speeds). If you have the enclosure, maybe ABS or ASA is a better choice.
i am not sure if using an enclosure has as much of an impact on strength and layer adhesion as turning off part cooling. I get it that you are using the suggested print settings, but in my testing it turns out that turning off the fan makes a huge difference.
I tested 30% vs. 50% (MK3S+) on this PCTG, and it makes no difference to layer-adhesion.
It only gets much better when turned off. As soon as I applied enough cooling to visibly improve overhangs, layer adhesion suffered (same for PCTG and PETG).
@@uhu4677 the cooling is pain in the ass for all printing filaments i think. Although did you see any improvements from PCTG comparing to PETG ?
Those results pretty much confirm my own tests.
PCTG is basically the same as PETG. The claims of much better layer adhesion and much better impact resistance are both false.
essentium does seem to work out, based on CNC Kitchen- fiberology's does not, which is a shame
What you're measuring there is not creep, it's stress relaxation.
Thanks for PCTG information!👌
I want to test more PCTG, many users claims, that it has great layer adhesion. But my experience is different so far (but I only tested 2)
@@MyTechFun I saw all your PCTG tests. Another reviewer claims it gets much sturdier and heat resistant after temperature annealing. Then turns from transparent color to white color and is much stronger than PETG. Would be great if there is an alternative to PETG which can resist more temperature and isn't unhealthy at printing. ASA/ABS/PC/(PA) all have very bad additives which are very unhealthy. PC and other plastic layers will be forbitten for food containers next year in our country due to Bisphenol additives. Bishphenol is rated 10000x worse now for health safety than in former times when it was released. It will be banned from inner coating for (beverage) cans.
Great thanks for Your testing, usefull job!
Great comparison video! I have only used Fiberlogy PETG dark red and dark blue before, because I wanted those colours for some specific prints. Printed ok, but nothing special. For PCTG, I think Essentium has a good version and Fiberlogy just tried to copy the idea, but I am not sure if they got the recipe right. I would not use their PCTG to be honest. I have found that RealFilaments and FormFutura PETG are quite good in quality and if I want to go cheap I go for Filament PM or Amazon basics that is surprisingly good for the price. Also I don't get why the use so much plastic for their spools, since a lot of companies are either going for cardboard spools or at least spools with holes like Prusament to use less plastic.
Thanks for the tips, probably I will test Essentium too. And yes, I could mention that in the video, so much waste material stays in spool holder after it is empty. I like those new cardboard spools (for example Polymakers)
hello !! about comparison .. i think there is wrong but not sure maybe you can correct me if i am wrong .. u need to make fan cooling test to see the best cooling for each filament different cooling speed will make different results !!! so i am not sure if that fair comparison!!! .. and by the way you are one of the best UA-cam especially in 3D ,, i have learned allots from your video .. regards
Cooling affect mostly the layer adhesion. Those test specimens have very big overhang, it needs that cooling, close to max recommended value.
Great video and analysis.
12:09 You could not have asked for a better looking right angle bend and chamfer out of the PETG! Damn!
Great video. Only wish that somehow you could also test UV resistance. Because I am looking for filaments other than ASA for outdoor applications. But that would be a very longlasting and timeconsuming test. But maybe doable by hanging an object under load in different filaments outside for a couple of months in the spring and summer.
Please more PCTG videos (3DJake PCTG, extrudr, ...). It seems to be a great alternative to PETG, and it is free of Bisphenol A/S.
I like the design of that filament roll, although I would prefer recycled cardboard
Looks like many others have same opinion
I really HATE the design of the Fiberlogy rolls.
They just waste space (often a problem in dry-filament-boxes), there are not many places to put the filament-end, and they offer no benefit at all.
It's aesthetically pleasing but very wasteful. In a grand survey of empty-spool weights, theirs came in second after i forget which spool that doesn't exist any longer, and it was quite distant to the rest. There isn't even a lip to attach your own filament end-clip.
To the end of reducing spool waste, they do offer Masterspool-compatible refills, so that's something you can take them up on.
@@SianaGearz Honestly they should just change their design.
@@uhu4677 i think the best if eu could just make recycle point. I have used over 100 spools and thrown them to plastic waste. But they could easily be recycled, because: they are from 1 single material , their are made from PC or ABS, easy shape to crush, they can be used to make filament or be reused. But whole EU and US, dont give a fuck as long as all makers can get cheap filament granules from china.
Thank you for logical review. In Lithuania we also have fiberlogy as Poland is our neighbour and it isn't very far to deliver from. I think it has one of the best qualities for it's price, just before prusa material. All devil design and spectrum and gembird were good, but they were unstable at the production during different time, usually with inconsistent diameter of filament, dusts humidity issues and etc. Also congrats to Hungary in elections for showing how they love their families, your country is my idol right now in the whole EU.
Please do the impact test in both print orientations.
For business purpose i use only FormFutura.
Carboard spools on small to medium format spools very good filaments
@@lorenzobruschetta9919 okay? So what? That has nothing to do with the comment you replied to.
Very nice. Those Fiberlogy spools have a lot of unnecessary plastic.
Yeah, those secondary roundover bobbins (that you can thankfully take off or they wouldn't fit into AMSs)... like, why??
Hi Igor, great video, as always. Have you tried contacting Fiberlogy for comment on your results? Many people will be buying their PCTG filament (and paying a lot more) because of the specification. It would be interesting to know why Fiberlogy claim such a high impact resistance when your test results show a very different results.
They wasnt happy and they explain weaker results with assumption that I used too much part cooling (30% instead 25%). But even if so, that may affect only layer adhesion, not impact and other tests.
@@MyTechFun yeah, 30% part cooling instead of 25%, like that would make any real difference 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks for replying
That was dissapointing about pctg, i guess pla and petg plus the use of ASA in enclosure when need more thermal resistance and best uv resistance as I been doing is just to continue on.
it's a very intresting test, 'cause i was trying to get PCTG - and got PETG (wrong label, at least a temp-tower - what i always print - showed that it was the wrong filament). i'm struggling a bit, 'cause "normal" settings can't be used here (i see wich you had there; irony, mine are a little bit higher for PETG - almost similar for PCTG (230°c), 'cause that was the temperature what was shown for me the best), i had to fiddle on several settings (print temperature (especially first layer), print speeds, bed temperature (especially first layer), cooling flow etc.) to get "usable" results. i might even had another spool of PETG here (different brand), so i'll see if that one is better - 'cause it seems, that my spool is from a bad quality (maybe even 'cause it was wrong labeled). for The spool design - it's nicht to look at, but bad when your printer (a artillery genius for my part) doesn't had a single "hook" for printing, as even 2 rolls - 'cause then the spool will brake itself a bit from scratching at the side of one of the spool-holders. maybe i can change that with a different part, 'cause it seems that's 'cause of the filament-runout-sensor (so i just need that to relocate).
for my part, that shows me, that i might not try to get PCTG again (these little bit "more temperature" isn't something what i would need - it was easier the "talk that is a alternative and as easy to print as pla) - and might stay with PETG.
Thanks!
Very helpful
Did you know the same type, same model and made by same producer filament, but different color have different properties because of different pigment? This difference should be even bigger if there is no pigment in a filament, I think you should repeat the test with the same color filaments.
A german Channel testet Pctg also, and he has more Layer adhesion, printed with 270°
Interesting video, but disappointing result for PCTG. Glad I know, I won’t have to try it.
I am shocked by the results of the izod test. The technical notation is that Petg 5 kj/M2 a pctg 92kj/m2, Am I misunderstanding something, that your izod test results came out very similar?
For example, in CNC kitchen tests, PETG was below 5 and PCTG was below 25. What is wrong?
Technical notations are usualy for Charpy test. But, yes, in this case those 92 kJ/m2 sounds too much, even for Charpy.
A bit of a pity that PCTG, said to be more transparent, was not tested in transparent/natural colour..
For me, PCTG is much more easier to print than PETG. I prefer PCTG.
Very good video and test 👍
Pctg is a garbage of material...i did test diferent brands of it and is a waste of money.. petg is 99% similar and much more cheaper.
Thanks
Thank You Jeffrey! I am glad that you liked the video.
Aren't colorants basically impurities? Wouldn't the clear filament likely have an advantage due to the extra emphasis on eliminating impurities overall (for better clarity)? Either way, that PCTG underperformed, either because it's overrated or that manufacturer isn't very good at PCTG.
Part cooling is for trinkets
Interesting results. I use both of it and thought that their PCTG was much better. It feels like it is better but sadly not as good as advertised
Yes, that was my conclusion too. I was expecting for much higher impact resistance :-(
@@MyTechFun They also have CPE HT but it is more expensive , 0,75kg spool and only in one color. They compare it to PC but easier to print. It is also cheaper than PC Blend by +/- 25 euros
@@AndrzejBrudniak The comparison to PC is probably bogus.
I have CPE HT here. I print it at 290°C nozzle and 115°C bed (which is about the maximum of my MK3S+ ... higher might be even better).
It warps a lot easier than PETG/PCTG. However I have yet to print PC to see, if that's even harder.
The mechanical properties are VERY similar with one exception: When pulling it doesn't snap, but slowly yields.
Didn't test the temperature resistence yet.
@@uhu4677 PC Blend warps but for small parts is ok with a little brim without enclosure
Problem if they are variant for ISO IZOD 180, test can make with Edgewise or Flatwise, notched or not, and different size of notched, many constructor no indicate the precise Test, soo, all have different result, and some try to cheat you with big value in J/m.... xD
so not worth the extra expense
PETG wins
Polymaker polymax PETG is PCTG as well
The goal was similar: more impact strength.
PETG and PCTG is (basically) the same material.
Check "Essentium Materials Guide: PCTG - Part 2".
They explain, that when you start modifying PET with CHDM, it becomes PETG ... and if you add even more, it becomes PCTG.
They make the distinction at 50%. But I doubt there's an absolute border.
Who knows ... there might be PETG out there, which has actually more CHDM than the PCTG of Fiberlogy.
@@uhu4677 It needs a higher print temp and polymaker lists a petg print temp
it really isn't
Petg cant be reliably glued, pctg can he glued easily
Your printing temperature is to low. Pctg musst Print with high temperature and 10 % blower. Your test is Bad.
I applaud your methodology, but your sample selection was fatally flawed so the results are quite useless. You are comparing clear PETG with matt-died PCTG As many others have commented, non-clear filaments usually have significantly lower properties (especially matt), so your conclusions instead of being informing, are misleading and should not be published. You would to well to repeat the test with both samples clear and replace this video.
I really like your reviews but your accent and grammar is so painful. I think you should work on that to take this channel to the next level.
But it is Hunglish, you should understand. If not, you can always follow my Hungarian channel ;-) www.youtube.com/@3dnyomtatas
any thoughts on your dictator leader?