Hi. I have a e220d w211 and i had some strange problems. The car had loss of power, check engine light on but the strangest was a jerk between changing gears. I went to a garage and i had to change egr valve ,then lambda sonde an gas pedal...nothing changed. I changed myself conductor plate and tcc solenoid...nothing. After i saw your video i found the same problem like you...thanks for the codes. Good video 👏
Thank you..thank you..thank you. My E320 CDi has been to various garages with no solutions to this problem. So after watching your video I popped out and checked the pipe - a big split. Thanks once again. 🙂
Had the same issue at 330k km with mine. Refurbished the turbo and replaced the ducts, all is good now. Still love the car, I wouldn't change it for these newer E classes. The quality is gone. Unless you get an S class, a van mode, or AMG, they're not worth it for the price they ask. Insane.
Awesome video!! This just happened to me today coming home. Check engine light, no boost. Couldn't get RPM above 20k. I noticed some oil towards the front left where you found it. I can't thank you enough!
If it has been spraying oil, probably your pcv valve is broken, too. Allowing too much oil to be sucked in the turbo. These things break easily. Be sure to replace the pcv connection to the #1 bank valve cover as well
@@mackanistheshit what is this pcv valve? Funny enough i got Cel too, car goes into limp mode while driving BUT it randomly goes away too in the same drive just like 400 meter further🤷♂️
I just ordered the European intake manifold for this car. The American one has the swirl flaps contraction and I will replace it with the Euro version that doesn't have that. Won't have to clean the IM won't have to delete the flaps or fabricate closing the holes.
I have the same problem ,tick over lumpy at times it drives OK then it will struggle, loss of power then it clears so its intermittent, if I drive it hard the engine light will come on, the booster pipe has a lot of oil on it and I can see a small split on the side I can see thanks for the video.
I have a 2009 E320 Bluetec with 85,000 miles. I had/have the same issue which started about 3-4 months ago, with codes 2359 & 2624. I took it to a shop that have great reviews….which I now regret. They replaced my fuel filter and the EGR Cooler kit with gaskets and seals according to my receipt. However, I was told they had to manually clean my fuel line due to soot buildup. It’s not on my receipt and my bill was enormous (half my cars value). First time driving it, it went back into limp mood, and they said a seal or gasket that had been previously cleaned had failed so they ordered a new one, no charge. (Thought new ones came with the kit). After I drove it off and on for a couple of weeks locally, it went back into limp mood, codes P2359-1 & P2359-2. I took it back to the shop where it stayed for 5 1/2 weeks. I called once a week, and got the run around. Finally I demanded my car fixed, and returned to me before Christmas. That’s when I was told they had ordered an Actuator, which was on back order. When I was told it was ready, I had my husband drop me off. I was asked if they told me it still has issues, I replied NO. From what he said, as well as the notes on my receipt, I assume it meant they were done with my car. Receipt advice notes: vehicle needs more diagnosis to determine consistent accuracy of charge pressure Sensor & exhaust backpressure sensor. It is our understanding that this vehicle shows oil within the charge pipes coming from turbo. We recommend a Turbo and replacement of charge and backpressure sensors. So, I purchased a code reader and have searched UA-cam for fixes. The first code was 2359. Then P0299. Reset, but didn’t address. I added some Diesel Kleen to see if that would help. Next I got code P2A00, which my code reader won’t turn off. The code reader recommended replacing the 02 Bank 1 sensor 1, upstream (in front of the Cat Converter) which I have ordered. Should arrive today. I’m praying my husband can put it on. Whenever I drive it, it has a chemical smell. My questions: 1. Should I have the Cat Converters removed, cleaned and replaced? I do plan to have someone check the turbo intercooler boost hose shown on your video above, as well as the PCV bank 1 valve . 2. Should I also order the back pressure sensor, or include the bank 2 side sensors as well? I would greatly appreciate recommendations.
That doesn’t sound like a fun experience! I would definitely start by checking the charge/boost pipes. They aren’t that expensive, and you or your husband could easily replace them your self :)
@@mackanistheshit I had the 02 bank 1, sensor 1 replaced today, but they were unable to get the check engine light to turn off. I plan to drive it 25 miles tomorrow to see if the check engine light will turn off. (My code reader said some cars need to be driven 25 miles after. So, next step is the charge boost pipes. Are there 2 on the 2009 E320 Bluetec/211.022? If so, can we just replace the one on the bank 1 side? Thank you in advance.
@@mackanistheshit i very much appreciate your input. I went somewhere who turned off the code, and they checked the boost pipe, said looks and feels ok. I drove 10 miles to grocery with no problem, then as soon as I was leaving the grocery, fault codes P0299 and P2A00 showed up again, and it was in limp mood. Strange, I didn’t get any other code or limp mode once the P2A00 fault code showed up until the 02 Bank 1, sensor 1 was replaced. Then I got 2 codes, and back in limp mood as if the new sensor allowed more advanced readings. I currently have been using a Fixd code reader. Under advanced data it shows the Catalyst: Not ready, and Oxygen Sensor:Not ready. Plus Engine loop Status when scanned shows: Empty result. Not sure if that’s normal or not. 🤷♀️. Could you please give me your next recommendation? 🙏🏻❤️🙏🏻
@@mackanistheshit Hi again. My 2009 E320 runs fine after replacing the B-1, #1 sensor, and turning off code P2A00, until i turn off my car. The next time cranked, it immediately has the fault code P2A00 and P0299 (low boost pressure) again. Also once my sensor went bad, I didn’t get code P0299 and my car didn’t go into limp mode until after the senior was replaced. Does that mean anything to you? So today I planned to drive it further, without stops. I had the codes turned off, and drove it on the toll road for 28-30 miles today….at 60-70 mph and it ran fine. Once off toll road, with stops lights, etc, until home, it was still running great. While still running I checked to make sure there were no fault codes. Then several hours later when cranked, the check engine light came on immediately. Does this indicate to you a particular issue? I sure hope you can point me in the right direction. 🤯.
18:00 Hi, I have the exact same problem on an e280 but as far as I can see that hose has already been replaced on mine, so I saw some oil near the throttle, tomorrow I will remove the hose.
Hi. Awesome video.... I have the exact same problem in my E320 CDI 2008. My mechanic can't find the problem. I'm Find your video and I was able to solve the problem. I'm very happy. thank you!!!
My father has a 2009 mercedes e320 224hp, the car was running good, but suddenly engline light came on, no power even if it’s in sport it shifts up so quickly and goes to 140-160 kmh max. We cleaned the turbo, changed the intercooler, fuel pump but it just comes on, we even changed the dpf sensors but it just gives the errors, after we reset all the errors and take it for a spin, after 20 minutes the light comes on again and no power again.
Hi, could you help me? I have a Mercedes W211 E320 CDI 2004 150kW, and it feels like it somewhere is losing power, we measured only 137kW on a testing ramp, there is no check engine light, no smoke or anything. Any ideas? Also the cars controller is modified and should be like around 185kw when everything is okay, Thanks
@@Grensevaktenhvh we checked everything we could on my car, from pipe leakes, turbo actuator, turbo pressure, intake manifold pressure, swirl flaps and i dont know what more and everything is fine, turbo makes 2.5 bar at the intake to the engine. We came to the result that the place we have been to measure the power must have done it wrong, since he was complaing the whole time about the automatic transmisson
Hi ,thanks .I have the same problem on a 2005 A class mercedes 1.8 cdi .2359-1 low boost pressure . Car lacks power and its a cvt automatic . When left at low revs after egr valve opens it looses more power and runs rough with valve not closing again and dark smoke from lack of air.Can the egr valve be affected by low boost pressure?This is the only code.surley if egr was the problem that woud still operate.The A class has no space to even get ones hands in there!
@@mackanistheshit Thanks, I came right. Striped covers and got to lower pipe coming out of intercooler. Circlip wasn't installed properly and pipe was half off. Weird no noises or anything.
Добрый день у меня такая проблема с моим W211 320 3.0 V6 2007года. При езде за 100 км.час сильно начал дыметь и двигатель пошёл в разнос но вовремя остановился и заглушил. Через час попытался завести двигатель и не заводиться вообще ошибок на табло не показывает кроме одной нет давления в двигателе внутреннего сгорания топлива что-то с топлевной системой не могу завести . Стартер крутит но не хочет заводиться. В чем проблема я не знаю может быть тоже самое что и у вас . Замена шланга интеркулера...Помогите пожалуйста. Спасибо большое
Awesome video. I'm having fuel rail issues on my 2010 ML350 Bluetec... similar om642 engine... Car is in limp mode. Code says fuel pressure in rail is too high, and I'm leaning towards the pressure regulator and the high pressure injector pump. However, while checking live data with my scanner, I noticed boost pressure was always off, but there are no boost related codes popping up. Any idea if fuel rail issues can affect boost?
@@randommercedesmgtow3675 Thanks for the reply. I got this fixed already. The problem was the fuel pressure regulator. Changed it and all codes went away along with limp mode... got full power back. However, a new issue just cropped up recently... I get these intermittent shakes when I accelerate sometimes. It comes and goes and no code has been thrown yet. This one really has me confused because there's no check engine code. This OM642 always has one issue or the other to make you spend money.
Hi. I have a 2012 gl350 that has 70k miles. I noticed my intercooler hose have some oil in it. I changed the PCV valve at 50k. Would you reccomend changing the hose or is that normal?
@@mackanistheshit just driving and for a moment lost power check engine...studently stop.i was to the garage and they change the pressure diesel pump (reductor) after that Ben fine for a 200 mile drive ...and same problem.so the mechanic check all the pipe, tank pump etc so didn't find the problem.he make the level of diesel now and will be stop again for some miles .I don't have any ideea wath can be.
Hi.
I have a e220d w211 and i had some strange problems.
The car had loss of power, check engine light on but the strangest was a jerk between changing gears.
I went to a garage and i had to change egr valve ,then lambda sonde an gas pedal...nothing changed.
I changed myself conductor plate and tcc solenoid...nothing.
After i saw your video i found the same problem like you...thanks for the codes. Good video 👏
I had the exact same problem with my E320 CDI sport. The new intercooler hoze cured all the problems and the performance felt great!
Awesome 😉
which hose ? the one that goes to the turbo or the one that goes to the intake manifold ?
@@freemindas The one with a split in it.
What's the part number? I ve got sport model as a well.thanks
Thank you..thank you..thank you. My E320 CDi has been to various garages with no solutions to this problem. So after watching your video I popped out and checked the pipe - a big split. Thanks once again. 🙂
Had the same issue at 330k km with mine. Refurbished the turbo and replaced the ducts, all is good now. Still love the car, I wouldn't change it for these newer E classes. The quality is gone. Unless you get an S class, a van mode, or AMG, they're not worth it for the price they ask. Insane.
Awesome video!! This just happened to me today coming home. Check engine light, no boost. Couldn't get RPM above 20k. I noticed some oil towards the front left where you found it. I can't thank you enough!
I’m glad this video has helped you! :-)
Good luck with the hose swap!
If it has been spraying oil, probably your pcv valve is broken, too. Allowing too much oil to be sucked in the turbo. These things break easily. Be sure to replace the pcv connection to the #1 bank valve cover as well
Yes, the PCV valve was replaced last year :)
@@mackanistheshit ah.. good stuff 😃
@@mackanistheshit what is this pcv valve? Funny enough i got Cel too, car goes into limp mode while driving BUT it randomly goes away too in the same drive just like 400 meter further🤷♂️
Positive crank case ventilation-valve. It’s located on the passenger side valve cover.
Start by checking the codes :)
I have same problem In my w246 b200
I thought that I need to change the turbo it self
Thx bro that was very helpful 👌
Thx! I hope your car has the same fault :)
I just ordered the European intake manifold for this car. The American one has the swirl flaps contraction and I will replace it with the Euro version that doesn't have that. Won't have to clean the IM won't have to delete the flaps or fabricate closing the holes.
I have the same problem ,tick over lumpy at times it drives OK then it will struggle, loss of power then it clears so its intermittent, if I drive it hard the engine light will come on, the booster pipe has a lot of oil on it and I can see a small split on the side I can see thanks for the video.
I have a 2009 E320 Bluetec with 85,000 miles. I had/have the same issue which started about 3-4 months ago, with codes 2359 & 2624. I took it to a shop that have great reviews….which I now regret. They replaced my fuel filter and the EGR Cooler kit with gaskets and seals according to my receipt. However, I was told they had to manually clean my fuel line due to soot buildup. It’s not on my receipt and my bill was enormous (half my cars value). First time driving it, it went back into limp mood, and they said a seal or gasket that had been previously cleaned had failed so they ordered a new one, no charge. (Thought new ones came with the kit). After I drove it off and on for a couple of weeks locally, it went back into limp mood, codes P2359-1 & P2359-2. I took it back to the shop where it stayed for 5 1/2 weeks. I called once a week, and got the run around. Finally I demanded my car fixed, and returned to me before Christmas. That’s when I was told they had ordered an Actuator, which was on back order. When I was told it was ready, I had my husband drop me off. I was asked if they told me it still has issues, I replied NO. From what he said, as well as the notes on my receipt, I assume it meant they were done with my car. Receipt advice notes: vehicle needs more diagnosis to determine consistent accuracy of charge pressure Sensor & exhaust backpressure sensor. It is our understanding that this vehicle shows oil within the charge pipes coming from turbo. We recommend a Turbo and replacement of charge and backpressure sensors.
So, I purchased a code reader and have searched UA-cam for fixes. The first code was 2359. Then P0299. Reset, but didn’t address. I added some Diesel Kleen to see if that would help. Next I got code P2A00, which my code reader won’t turn off. The code reader recommended replacing the 02 Bank 1 sensor 1, upstream (in front of the Cat Converter) which I have ordered. Should arrive today. I’m praying my husband can put it on. Whenever I drive it, it has a chemical smell.
My questions:
1. Should I have the Cat Converters removed, cleaned and replaced? I do plan to have someone check the turbo intercooler boost hose shown on your video above, as well as the PCV bank 1 valve .
2. Should I also order the back pressure sensor, or include the bank 2 side sensors as well?
I would greatly appreciate recommendations.
That doesn’t sound like a fun experience!
I would definitely start by checking the charge/boost pipes. They aren’t that expensive, and you or your husband could easily replace them your self :)
@@mackanistheshit I had the 02 bank 1, sensor 1 replaced today, but they were unable to get the check engine light to turn off. I plan to drive it 25 miles tomorrow to see if the check engine light will turn off. (My code reader said some cars need to be driven 25 miles after. So, next step is the charge boost pipes. Are there 2 on the 2009 E320 Bluetec/211.022? If so, can we just replace the one on the bank 1 side? Thank you in advance.
No need to replace one if it’s not leaking. Check for dampness along the hose/pipe.
@@mackanistheshit i very much appreciate your input. I went somewhere who turned off the code, and they checked the boost pipe, said looks and feels ok. I drove 10 miles to grocery with no problem, then as soon as I was leaving the grocery, fault codes P0299 and P2A00 showed up again, and it was in limp mood. Strange, I didn’t get any other code or limp mode once the P2A00 fault code showed up until the 02 Bank 1, sensor 1 was replaced. Then I got 2 codes, and back in limp mood as if the new sensor allowed more advanced readings. I currently have been using a Fixd code reader. Under advanced data it shows the Catalyst: Not ready, and Oxygen Sensor:Not ready. Plus Engine loop Status when scanned shows: Empty result. Not sure if that’s normal or not. 🤷♀️. Could you please give me your next recommendation? 🙏🏻❤️🙏🏻
@@mackanistheshit Hi again. My 2009 E320 runs fine after replacing the B-1, #1 sensor, and turning off code P2A00, until i turn off my car. The next time cranked, it immediately has the fault code P2A00 and P0299 (low boost pressure) again. Also once my sensor went bad, I didn’t get code P0299 and my car didn’t go into limp mode until after the senior was replaced. Does that mean anything to you? So today I planned to drive it further, without stops. I had the codes turned off, and drove it on the toll road for 28-30 miles today….at 60-70 mph and it ran fine. Once off toll road, with stops lights, etc, until home, it was still running great. While still running I checked to make sure there were no fault codes. Then several hours later when cranked, the check engine light came on immediately. Does this indicate to you a particular issue? I sure hope you can point me in the right direction. 🤯.
18:00 Hi, I have the exact same problem on an e280 but as far as I can see that hose has already been replaced on mine, so I saw some oil near the throttle, tomorrow I will remove the hose.
Hi. Awesome video.... I have the exact same problem in my E320 CDI 2008. My mechanic can't find the problem. I'm Find your video and I was able to solve the problem. I'm very happy. thank you!!!
Hi,got same problem on my right now the mechanic couldn't find the problem
Skönt att fixa såna där fel själv!
Ja verkligen!
Thank you very much. Have same problem on GLK 320. Now I know where to look.
I hope this video will help you to solve your issue!
i LOVE YOU MAN, YOU MADE MY DAY, THANK YOU .. I GOT SAME ISSIUE
Thank you very much you helped me find a hose leak on my s class
Sweet!
💪🏻
Thanks, very helpful for troubleshooting!
Hi. Great Video, thank you. Did the hose come supplied with O ring seals both ends?
Yes it did, thank you!
Merci pour cette vidéo 🙏 nouveau abonné 😊
My father has a 2009 mercedes e320 224hp, the car was running good, but suddenly engline light came on, no power even if it’s in sport it shifts up so quickly and goes to 140-160 kmh max. We cleaned the turbo, changed the intercooler, fuel pump but it just comes on, we even changed the dpf sensors but it just gives the errors, after we reset all the errors and take it for a spin, after 20 minutes the light comes on again and no power again.
My uncles e280 cdi is having same issue we are taking it to the mechanic lets see what happens
Hi, could you help me? I have a Mercedes W211 E320 CDI 2004 150kW, and it feels like it somewhere is losing power, we measured only 137kW on a testing ramp, there is no check engine light, no smoke or anything. Any ideas? Also the cars controller is modified and should be like around 185kw when everything is okay, Thanks
185kw that ur tuner told u is an estimation to the crank, it will not make 185kw to the wheels
@@Grensevaktenhvh we checked everything we could on my car, from pipe leakes, turbo actuator, turbo pressure, intake manifold pressure, swirl flaps and i dont know what more and everything is fine, turbo makes 2.5 bar at the intake to the engine.
We came to the result that the place we have been to measure the power must have done it wrong, since he was complaing the whole time about the automatic transmisson
I have everything well set up nothing wrong with my turbo.. i still have issue and car stays on safe mode, why?
Driver side pipe does have same issue?
Hey mate if you can help me ! I have w204 with OM642 engine, I’m trying to change DPF sensor but I couldn’t find it !
I have same problem, ill let u know if i solve it with this hose... Btw anyone have blinking of display while driving your car?
Hello i have no check engine light but i got poor fuel economy, also when i scan the car i have p0101 code
great work thanks
Good video, all very useful.
Thank you!
Hi ,thanks .I have the same problem on a 2005 A class mercedes 1.8 cdi .2359-1 low boost pressure . Car lacks power and its a cvt automatic . When left at low revs after egr valve opens it looses more power and runs rough with valve not closing again and dark smoke from lack of air.Can the egr valve be affected by low boost pressure?This is the only code.surley if egr was the problem that woud still operate.The A class has no space to even get ones hands in there!
Perhaps if the EGR valve is boost actuated? :)
@@mackanistheshit Thanks, I came right. Striped covers and got to lower pipe coming out of intercooler. Circlip wasn't installed properly and pipe was half off. Weird no noises or anything.
Добрый день у меня такая проблема с моим W211 320 3.0 V6 2007года. При езде за 100 км.час сильно начал дыметь и двигатель пошёл в разнос но вовремя остановился и заглушил. Через час попытался завести двигатель и не заводиться вообще ошибок на табло не показывает кроме одной нет давления в двигателе внутреннего сгорания топлива что-то с топлевной системой не могу завести . Стартер крутит но не хочет заводиться. В чем проблема я не знаю может быть тоже самое что и у вас . Замена шланга интеркулера...Помогите пожалуйста. Спасибо большое
Awesome video. I'm having fuel rail issues on my 2010 ML350 Bluetec... similar om642 engine... Car is in limp mode. Code says fuel pressure in rail is too high, and I'm leaning towards the pressure regulator and the high pressure injector pump. However, while checking live data with my scanner, I noticed boost pressure was always off, but there are no boost related codes popping up. Any idea if fuel rail issues can affect boost?
Fuel rail can make car also jerk ..I will start with fuel filter
@@randommercedesmgtow3675 Thanks for the reply. I got this fixed already. The problem was the fuel pressure regulator. Changed it and all codes went away along with limp mode... got full power back. However, a new issue just cropped up recently... I get these intermittent shakes when I accelerate sometimes. It comes and goes and no code has been thrown yet. This one really has me confused because there's no check engine code. This OM642 always has one issue or the other to make you spend money.
@@pmo3448 happy u solved it but unfortunately a new has come. It a never ending problem solving antics that cost money and time
best video. wery good man. thx
Thank you!
Hi. I have a 2012 gl350 that has 70k miles. I noticed my intercooler hose have some oil in it. I changed the PCV valve at 50k. Would you reccomend changing the hose or is that normal?
No interval, change if it’s split/broken :)
I will inspect them if it broken..it has to go some time too they are very soft, that got to go too the integrity has been compromised
whats the name of ur delphi scanner? some cheap solution to it or u buy it full price?
Cheap one! I it cost me like 50-80usd with the adapter and software.
@@mackanistheshit do u have a link or model numbers to what you bought?
Hey which programme are you using to scan for those codes??
Autocom
vart köpte du delarna ifrån samt namnen på delarna
Från Mercedes artikelnummer finns i beskrivningen.
How do i contact you ...regarding this problem I got something similar.
Just write here
@@mackanistheshit just driving and for a moment lost power check engine...studently stop.i was to the garage and they change the pressure diesel pump (reductor) after that Ben fine for a 200 mile drive ...and same problem.so the mechanic check all the pipe, tank pump etc so didn't find the problem.he make the level of diesel now and will be stop again for some miles .I don't have any ideea wath can be.
Can I have the Part codes for both thank you
They are in the description
Do you still have the s211 and do you want to sell it?
I still have it that’s correct, how ever I’m not planing to sell it :)
Good 👍👍