We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Awesome tips. I just set my new one up today and will immediately go and adjust the tables to your specs and give it a go. Thank you! To convince us of "guaranteed no snipe" would have been nice to see you run a piece of stock through. I'm just saying.
I have this planer and I do struggle with snipe at times. I have a single board I use to reduce snipe but sometimes I still get it with wide stock. My most effective way of eliminating snipe is to use a sacrificial board to run with my stock but that only works if the width of my stock is less than the width of the planner. When I make cutting boards I make the two outside boards 6 to 8 inches longer than the board so that I can have some extra on either end. This always eliminates the snipe on my board.
I created a sturdy infeed and outfeed table that runs through the planer (solutions 3 & 4 combined in this video) and I still have drastic snipe with my porter cable planer. The only thing that has stopped snipe is using a sacrificial board before and after feeding the piece of wood that I’m planing. My best guess to why there’s such significant snipe is because the infeed rollers are pressing down too far away from the cutter heads. I haven’t been able to spot an elegant way to adjusting the height of the rollers on this machine. I used to work in a wood shop and one of my jobs were adjusting the rollers on the drum sander. Adjusting the rollers reduced the snipe to where it was barely perceivable.
May I ask a question? I tried the sacrificial boards way for the first time today and my planer just straight up ripped the sacrificial board apart inside the planer. Does the sacrificial board have to be the exact same thickness? Same kind of wood? My hope was that I could use scrap for the sacrificial part... but now thinking maybe that wood I used was slightly thicker and the blades caught it or something and lifted it off as a result...? I don't know...
@@yazr1712 Good question. The sacrificial boards have to be the exact thickness. Ideally, they should be close to the same width, but this isn’t 100% necessary. Doesn’t matter the species of wood. If you don’t have any thing the exact thickness, then I always just take scrap construction lumber and mill it down to the same piece that I’m trying to plane. Another reason why your sacrificial piece became torn up is if it’s too short. Make sure it’s long enough to touch both the front and back rollers. Otherwise it could do a wheelie and go straight to the cutters like a wood chipper.
@@chrissetter A response! Thank you! Okay, that all makes sense... but on that note... how do the sleds with end pieces work? I have seen videos of those who create a sled out of plywood so that it acts as a totally flat/jointed for planing wood that doesn't have a flat side... they'll sometimes have a piece at the end of the sled, I guess to provide support for the piece at the rear? I would think it would be impossible to have that be the exact same thickness as all your pieces... unless they change it out every time...? Sorry if I'm not explaining this properly.
I had flashbacks when you ran your hand under the cutterhead! Couple of years ago, I was building a pair of vanity cabinets for a friend. I had used my planer to run some Brazilian walnut prior to doing this job. Given that the Brazilian walnut is hard and prone to dull any toll you work it with, I installed a new set of knives on my planer before running the face frame stock. After I was done dimensioning my parts, I went to clean up and shut down for the day. I cranked the planer head all the way up and started brushing the chips out of the planer with my hand, in a motion very similar to the way you were applying that wax. About the third revolution I jammed my knuckle into one of those nice new sharp knives with a sliding motion and I felt as it peeled that knuckle to the bone. Needless to say, though it wasn't incapacitatingly painful, it still hurt and again I felt stupid for being so thoughtless. I still bear a nice crescent shaped scar on my middle finger of my right hand and the memory of seeing the joint of that knuckle with the flesh removed. Lesson learned, never take it for granted that a power tool can't hurt you, even if it is unplugged.
I have the same planer and have been battling with the snipe problem. Adjusted the in feed and out feed tables, waxed the bed as he suggests and used an auxiliary bed. Auxiliary bed seems to work the best on my machine, but inevitably I will still get snipes. Kind of depends on the material, feed rate setting and depth of cut obviously. I read though all the comments for further insight for the problem, got a little heated in a few, but I didn't see anyone mentioning a simple fix if you can't get the snipe problem resolved. Precut the material 6 or 8 inches longer than needed for finished dimension before running through the planer just in case a snipe occurs. Sure as hell, the one time you will get a snipe it'll be on finished dimension piece. Thanks for posting this video, always looking for tricks or tips for solving some quirky problems we all experience at times with our machinery.
100% agree I keep my bed alignment the best I can but if I take to big a cut snipe. I just do it simple 6 inches longer works every time. Sacrificial board works but not every time at least for me.
The first thing is to understand why the snipe is occurring. The head unit is composed of the cutter and two rollers. Since this has to be raised and lower, it cannot be fully tight. The little bit of play will allow the head to change angle. When the board gets to the first roller it raises that side of the head causing the cutter to be lower. The cutter will continue to cut deeper until the board hits the outfeed roller. At this point it will raise the back side of the head and raise the cutter until the board gets past the infeed roller. Once past the infeed roller, the head will angle down. This creates snipe as the board exits. The Dewalt 735 has some mechanical advantage over most other planers. First it has the posts sitting further apart. Just by doing this will probably eliminate 1/3 of the snipe. The other advantage is going to be the design of the lifting/lowering of the head. Many planers have 2 screw posts and 4 post for the head to slide on. The dewalt has 4 screw post.
I figured this out myself after having to hold the boards up when feeding in and before the board leaves the first roller. Works good in mats up to 1" but I still find myself picking up on the thicker or heavier lumber. The wax is a good tip too, a good wax and polish was the first thing I did when I got this unit.
Tables should be level, increasing the angle at the end of your feeds will create scooping in the centre of your wood. sacrificial wood is th best advise.
How would scooping be possible if the distance from the cutter to the table remains constant? The angle of the tables counteracts the force of the rollers.
@606woodworks4 consider simple physics.. if you have two raised ends, in and out, and the centre is a constant height, you create a valley. This is a well know result of raised ends and there are many videos on UA-cam which explain it and demonstrate it
@@tazwhitefeather yeah, I don't think that's how it works. the center of the board references the same area as the ends, if what you are proposing there would be a hollow in the center of the board, which would be eliminated as the board exits since something thicker isn't going to magically not get cut by the cutters.
I often just hand plane a board to remove the snipe after it has been planed to the desired thickness with the thickness planer. You really only need to remove a very small amount of wood to smooth out the snipe. If possible, I leave a few inches extra on the boards so the sniped area can be cut off. I will try to feed several pieces through in succession to eliminate snipe on all but the first and last ends going into the planer. I find it hard to believe that fiddling with the in-feed and out-feed tables or waxing the surface would eliminate the snipe. It is more a function of the cutter engaging the wood with only one of the feeder rollers being engaged with the wood. I would think taking very light cuts would be more effective, but who has time for that?
Nice tips. One question about the last tip i.e. building your own infeed and outfeed tables. Do you build them flat with the bed or do you actually have them tilted a bit upward on the ends just like you showed in tip #2 on adjusting the stock ones a bit tilted upwards. Thanks in advance.
You forgot the tip where you run a sacrificial board to begin, just before your actual piece goes in, then when it comes out the other side you grab it and feed it into the planer as the end of your actual project piece goes through the planer. The sacrificial piece is the first in and last out.
@@charlieodom9107 By the way, the phrase is "couldn't care less". If someone "could care less" I would ask how much less could they care? If it's not possible for someone to to care less than they do then we say they couldn't care less. Just sayin'.
@@charlieodom9107 wonderfully written and 100% accurate. These tips only reduce it. Sacrificial wood is also so much easier than all these other crappy tips hands down
Hate to break it to you but snipe typ comes from the play in the threads (typ acme) vs the imbalanced load applied when only one roller is pressing stock causing the intolerance in the jack screws(threads) to shift up on oneside and when it hits that extreme it pushes down on the other. Combine that with the cutting head not being in the center of the posts or the pressure rollers one or the other or both causing the head to dip in relation to the work piece. Sacrificial material before and aft long enough to preload both rollers is largely the way to remove snipe.
Excellent view of planer basics along with tried and true methods for beautifully surfaced lumber to work magic with!! In reference to raising the outfield beds higher by a minimal amount, here's a cool fact... this slight adjustment adds tension on wood and increases the pressure from outfeed roller... this by many accounts is a tried and true practice for some planer mill set up men.
None of these things eliminate snipe. Snipe is caused by the configuration of the rollers, and happens when the roller at either end loses contact with the board. The only way to truly eliminate snipe is to have a sacrificial board of the same width in front of and behind the board you are planing.
I own the same planer. It’s not the best machine I’ve owned for sure it’s under powered and it goes thru knives like crazy even if you buy oem I wish I had my $750 back I would find a 2 blade older rigid. Good tips on the snipe
With the ends up .020 or so, you are "swamping" your wood, i.e. .020 thinner in the middle. If you think it helps to raise the end, why don't you do it with the board you use as a bed? Long bed and holding it down on entry and exit will eliminate snipe because when the first roller releases the board, the board pops up slightly causing the divit.
Not one of these will eliminate snipe. Snipe happens because there are infeed rollers on each side of the cutting head, when the board that is being planned clears the first infeed roller it will 100% of the time raise up as that tension is released from the first roller. The only way to eliminate snipe on this planer is to use a sacrificial board at the start and end of your piece. The tips will help to reduce, but it will not eliminate snipe.
“If ya hate whatcha saw, hit the like button”. .... liked. I did actually enjoy this shop snippet. However, I think you missed the nail. And not explaining the table skew gave me a headache. In the interest of explanations, I think the guy below talking about rollers and cutter head not being fixed in place did a nice job.
This is a consumer grade planer and I have owned one. As a hobbyist I did get snipe but for the most part was able to work around it using some of the tricks shown here. I have never owned or used a high end commercial unit so I am curious if they produce snipe. If not then I would say snipe is caused by a poorly engineered or poorly manufactured product or both. I guess we get what we pay for. Snipe is not critical on some projects of course but it makes other projects a litter easier and nicer if you don't have to deal with it.
Snipe can happen on the larger commercial machines. I think there are several contributing factors like the amount of pressure put onto the wood from the feed rollers, bed length, and of course the operators ability to set up the machine. This isn’t an exhaustive list and I’m sure there are other factors.
Commercial snipe is reduced by having much larger beds, like the larger extension wings are doing. Additionally, some employ multiple rollers which allow a set to be dedicated to feed and a set to downward pressure. This also allows the downward pressure roles to sit closer to the cutter. Because the distance is shorter, the length of the snipe area is less than on a lunch box planer.
I have done all of those things and MORE, and I still have snipe--I don't have a planar as nice as yours but I have pretty much given up on getting rid of snipe--good video though
Few things to try that weren’t mentioned in the video- taking very light passes and a planer sled. Also making sure tour in and outfeed rollers are cleaned. Ive heard of people removing tension in the rollers( not an option on my planer) to reduce the force they apply which is supposed to help with the board getting pushed into the cutterhead with the cutterhead movement. But i cannot verify that one.
Why are you using steel wool to apply wax??? That’s going to leave steel residue on the surface and also going to scare the surface of the planer bed over time. That’s a terrible method to apply. It’s literally going to add fine metal into your wood.
This is probably not a good argument to enter but real tools and machinery usually perform better than toys. Depending on your project you can always orient any irregular end with snipe so that it faces in and can't readily be seen. Alternatively, leave the work piece a little long and cut the snipe off to finished board size. Adjusting sheet metal and hoping it stays exactly in place on vibrating/reciprocating machinery is a losing proposition.
This addresses specifically bench top machines and some of their issues. Adjusting the wings so they are higher on either side compensates for the feed roller pressure which is why it helps with snipe, same principal as lifting the boards when feeding them in or out.
Being new to woodworking, these look like great tips. One huge question that I believe should've been addressed in the beginning. What is snipe? You never said what snipe is, never showed an example of what snipe is. Last I heard, snipe is a small bird. In woodworking, what is snip?
@@606woodworks4 I figured what snipe probably is- thanks for confirming it. I just picked up an old Roybi 10" planer from a curb sale, so I went into youtube to investigate.
When using the infeed and outfeed extensions do you keep them flat even with bed or do you raise the outer ends like you suggested when using the supplied tables?
As a detailer for automobiles, why are you applying paste wax with a steel wool pad? Your adding micro-scratches to the polished plate. Use a cloth so your not adding to the "grabbyness" of the steel by roughing it up at a micro level. Other than that....thank you VERY much. Great tips.
Hey Clive, paste wax ,generally , is carnuba based wax for wood working purposes. Im not sure if these are available globally but it is a common base for waxes and polishes.
sounds good, or you can live with the snipe those shitty planers produce and just cut off the unusable ends. Lets face it, what true carpenter puts a finished length through a planer? Yours is a solution to no-ones problems.
Use Johnson's paste wax. Home Depot carries it. Best wax out there in my opinion. Have used it for decades. BTW, car wax/polish usually has silicone in it which creates a horror show on wood finish.
It's about compensating for the uneven leverage applied to either end of the wood by the rollers inside the machine when only one roller is in contact with the work piece (when it enters and exits). The factory infeed & outfeed tables have some give, so raising them introduces a leverage which opposes the force of the roller. The long, flat table prevents the roller from leveraging the wood by supporting it along a greater length.
Very good,just asking so please don't get hostile.I think when demonstrating, always point out the safety of making sure that the instrument is unplugged.
Charlie Odom, what will catch more fly's, honey or vinegar? Your acidic responses just prove that being a jerk is alive and well. You can have your opinion and are certainly entitled to it, but going to this extreme to attempt forcing another to accept that opinion is over the top woke.
Charlie's comments being correct does not qualify them as being acidic. They are not opinion. They are correct based on the physics of the machine. (BTW- the word is "flies.")
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Awesome tips. I just set my new one up today and will immediately go and adjust the tables to your specs and give it a go. Thank you! To convince us of "guaranteed no snipe" would have been nice to see you run a piece of stock through. I'm just saying.
I have this planer and I do struggle with snipe at times. I have a single board I use to reduce snipe but sometimes I still get it with wide stock. My most effective way of eliminating snipe is to use a sacrificial board to run with my stock but that only works if the width of my stock is less than the width of the planner. When I make cutting boards I make the two outside boards 6 to 8 inches longer than the board so that I can have some extra on either end. This always eliminates the snipe on my board.
I created a sturdy infeed and outfeed table that runs through the planer (solutions 3 & 4 combined in this video) and I still have drastic snipe with my porter cable planer. The only thing that has stopped snipe is using a sacrificial board before and after feeding the piece of wood that I’m planing.
My best guess to why there’s such significant snipe is because the infeed rollers are pressing down too far away from the cutter heads. I haven’t been able to spot an elegant way to adjusting the height of the rollers on this machine.
I used to work in a wood shop and one of my jobs were adjusting the rollers on the drum sander. Adjusting the rollers reduced the snipe to where it was barely perceivable.
May I ask a question? I tried the sacrificial boards way for the first time today and my planer just straight up ripped the sacrificial board apart inside the planer. Does the sacrificial board have to be the exact same thickness? Same kind of wood? My hope was that I could use scrap for the sacrificial part... but now thinking maybe that wood I used was slightly thicker and the blades caught it or something and lifted it off as a result...? I don't know...
@@yazr1712 Good question. The sacrificial boards have to be the exact thickness. Ideally, they should be close to the same width, but this isn’t 100% necessary.
Doesn’t matter the species of wood.
If you don’t have any thing the exact thickness, then I always just take scrap construction lumber and mill it down to the same piece that I’m trying to plane.
Another reason why your sacrificial piece became torn up is if it’s too short. Make sure it’s long enough to touch both the front and back rollers. Otherwise it could do a wheelie and go straight to the cutters like a wood chipper.
@@chrissetter A response! Thank you! Okay, that all makes sense... but on that note... how do the sleds with end pieces work?
I have seen videos of those who create a sled out of plywood so that it acts as a totally flat/jointed for planing wood that doesn't have a flat side... they'll sometimes have a piece at the end of the sled, I guess to provide support for the piece at the rear? I would think it would be impossible to have that be the exact same thickness as all your pieces... unless they change it out every time...?
Sorry if I'm not explaining this properly.
I had flashbacks when you ran your hand under the cutterhead! Couple of years ago, I was building a pair of vanity cabinets for a friend. I had used my planer to run some Brazilian walnut prior to doing this job. Given that the Brazilian walnut is hard and prone to dull any toll you work it with, I installed a new set of knives on my planer before running the face frame stock.
After I was done dimensioning my parts, I went to clean up and shut down for the day. I cranked the planer head all the way up and started brushing the chips out of the planer with my hand, in a motion very similar to the way you were applying that wax. About the third revolution I jammed my knuckle into one of those nice new sharp knives with a sliding motion and I felt as it peeled that knuckle to the bone. Needless to say, though it wasn't incapacitatingly painful, it still hurt and again I felt stupid for being so thoughtless. I still bear a nice crescent shaped scar on my middle finger of my right hand and the memory of seeing the joint of that knuckle with the flesh removed.
Lesson learned, never take it for granted that a power tool can't hurt you, even if it is unplugged.
Yikes!! Yes drawing blood in the shop is painfully easy to do!! Keep working and stay safe!
Happens a lot when folks get ready to slice a turkey. I am an ER doctor.
I have the same planer and have been battling with the snipe problem. Adjusted the in feed and out feed tables, waxed the bed as he suggests and used an auxiliary bed. Auxiliary bed seems to work the best on my machine, but inevitably I will still get snipes. Kind of depends on the material, feed rate setting and depth of cut obviously. I read though all the comments for further insight for the problem, got a little heated in a few, but I didn't see anyone mentioning a simple fix if you can't get the snipe problem resolved. Precut the material 6 or 8 inches longer than needed for finished dimension before running through the planer just in case a snipe occurs. Sure as hell, the one time you will get a snipe it'll be on finished dimension piece.
Thanks for posting this video, always looking for tricks or tips for solving some quirky problems we all experience at times with our machinery.
100% agree I keep my bed alignment the best I can but if I take to big a cut snipe. I just do it simple 6 inches longer works every time. Sacrificial board works but not every time at least for me.
The first thing is to understand why the snipe is occurring. The head unit is composed of the cutter and two rollers. Since this has to be raised and lower, it cannot be fully tight. The little bit of play will allow the head to change angle. When the board gets to the first roller it raises that side of the head causing the cutter to be lower. The cutter will continue to cut deeper until the board hits the outfeed roller. At this point it will raise the back side of the head and raise the cutter until the board gets past the infeed roller. Once past the infeed roller, the head will angle down. This creates snipe as the board exits. The Dewalt 735 has some mechanical advantage over most other planers. First it has the posts sitting further apart. Just by doing this will probably eliminate 1/3 of the snipe. The other advantage is going to be the design of the lifting/lowering of the head. Many planers have 2 screw posts and 4 post for the head to slide on. The dewalt has 4 screw post.
I figured this out myself after having to hold the boards up when feeding in and before the board leaves the first roller. Works good in mats up to 1" but I still find myself picking up on the thicker or heavier lumber. The wax is a good tip too, a good wax and polish was the first thing I did when I got this unit.
I just got my 735x, now you got me thinking of plans to build my own in and out feed setup. thanks for the pro tips.
Thanks for the tips. Always good to add more ideas to the list. Knowledge is as sharp a tool as any chisel. Cheers!
I made the auxilary bed but I like the idea of the longer in/out feed extensions, it would be nice to show how you made them. good info.
+1
I'll definitely give those tips a go... I've always struggled with snipe... thanks and God bless
Tables should be level, increasing the angle at the end of your feeds will create scooping in the centre of your wood. sacrificial wood is th best advise.
How would scooping be possible if the distance from the cutter to the table remains constant? The angle of the tables counteracts the force of the rollers.
@606woodworks4 consider simple physics.. if you have two raised ends, in and out, and the centre is a constant height, you create a valley. This is a well know result of raised ends and there are many videos on UA-cam which explain it and demonstrate it
@@tazwhitefeather yeah, I don't think that's how it works. the center of the board references the same area as the ends, if what you are proposing there would be a hollow in the center of the board, which would be eliminated as the board exits since something thicker isn't going to magically not get cut by the cutters.
I often just hand plane a board to remove the snipe after it has been planed to the desired thickness with the thickness planer. You really only need to remove a very small amount of wood to smooth out the snipe. If possible, I leave a few inches extra on the boards so the sniped area can be cut off. I will try to feed several pieces through in succession to eliminate snipe on all but the first and last ends going into the planer. I find it hard to believe that fiddling with the in-feed and out-feed tables or waxing the surface would eliminate the snipe. It is more a function of the cutter engaging the wood with only one of the feeder rollers being engaged with the wood. I would think taking very light cuts would be more effective, but who has time for that?
When cutting exotic woods, you dont want to cut off 3" of every piece because of snipe.
Nice tips. One question about the last tip i.e. building your own infeed and outfeed tables. Do you build them flat with the bed or do you actually have them tilted a bit upward on the ends just like you showed in tip #2 on adjusting the stock ones a bit tilted upwards. Thanks in advance.
You forgot the tip where you run a sacrificial board to begin, just before your actual piece goes in, then when it comes out the other side you grab it and feed it into the planer as the end of your actual project piece goes through the planer. The sacrificial piece is the first in and last out.
I built a sled for my rigid planer and the snipe was gone. Try this and you may not need to use a sacrificial board.
@Boran That just removes the existing snipe from the board. My tips eliminate it all together.
@@charlieodom9107
By the way, the phrase is "couldn't care less". If someone "could care less" I would ask how much less could they care? If it's not possible for someone to to care less than they do then we say they couldn't care less. Just sayin'.
@@charlieodom9107 wonderfully written and 100% accurate. These tips only reduce it. Sacrificial wood is also so much easier than all these other crappy tips hands down
@@ThekiBoran 🤔well I could care more 😎🚬👍🏼
Hate to break it to you but snipe typ comes from the play in the threads (typ acme) vs the imbalanced load applied when only one roller is pressing stock causing the intolerance in the jack screws(threads) to shift up on oneside and when it hits that extreme it pushes down on the other. Combine that with the cutting head not being in the center of the posts or the pressure rollers one or the other or both causing the head to dip in relation to the work piece. Sacrificial material before and aft long enough to preload both rollers is largely the way to remove snipe.
Excellent view of planer basics along with tried and true methods for beautifully surfaced lumber to work magic with!!
In reference to raising the outfield beds higher by a minimal amount, here's a cool fact... this slight adjustment adds tension on wood and increases the pressure from outfeed roller... this by many accounts is a tried and true practice for some planer mill set up men.
None of these things eliminate snipe. Snipe is caused by the configuration of the rollers, and happens when the roller at either end loses contact with the board. The only way to truly eliminate snipe is to have a sacrificial board of the same width in front of and behind the board you are planing.
thank you i have the same planer. no more snipe. new sub .
I've found that just applying some upward force to the end of the board works fine
I own the same planer. It’s not the best machine I’ve owned for sure it’s under powered and it goes thru knives like crazy even if you buy oem
I wish I had my $750 back I would find a 2 blade older rigid. Good tips on the snipe
buy the helical head or segmented head like it did. I just rotate a square blade if it gets chipped.
With the ends up .020 or so, you are "swamping" your wood, i.e. .020 thinner in the middle. If you think it helps to raise the end, why don't you do it with the board you use as a bed? Long bed and holding it down on entry and exit will eliminate snipe because when the first roller releases the board, the board pops up slightly causing the divit.
Now I gotta find out what snipe is.
Not one of these will eliminate snipe. Snipe happens because there are infeed rollers on each side of the cutting head, when the board that is being planned clears the first infeed roller it will 100% of the time raise up as that tension is released from the first roller. The only way to eliminate snipe on this planer is to use a sacrificial board at the start and end of your piece. The tips will help to reduce, but it will not eliminate snipe.
I agree. As a kid I used to go snipe hunting but never saw one until I started wood working.
“If ya hate whatcha saw, hit the like button”. .... liked. I did actually enjoy this shop snippet. However, I think you missed the nail. And not explaining the table skew gave me a headache. In the interest of explanations, I think the guy below talking about rollers and cutter head not being fixed in place did a nice job.
This is a consumer grade planer and I have owned one. As a hobbyist I did get snipe but for the most part was able to work around it using some of the tricks shown here. I have never owned or used a high end commercial unit so I am curious if they produce snipe. If not then I would say snipe is caused by a poorly engineered or poorly manufactured product or both. I guess we get what we pay for. Snipe is not critical on some projects of course but it makes other projects a litter easier and nicer if you don't have to deal with it.
Snipe can happen on the larger commercial machines. I think there are several contributing factors like the amount of pressure put onto the wood from the feed rollers, bed length, and of course the operators ability to set up the machine. This isn’t an exhaustive list and I’m sure there are other factors.
@@606woodworks4 Thank you.
Commercial snipe is reduced by having much larger beds, like the larger extension wings are doing. Additionally, some employ multiple rollers which allow a set to be dedicated to feed and a set to downward pressure. This also allows the downward pressure roles to sit closer to the cutter. Because the distance is shorter, the length of the snipe area is less than on a lunch box planer.
Good tips! I have a tip for you, get a tripod.
Thanks so much for your tips.
Yeah, I got my dads planer. The last thing we did together was plane some wood of mine. The dementia thing got to him.
So your first was wax bed…then you added an abrasive plywood bed extension…So begs the question..Does a waxed bed matter?
Yes, it decreases the friction at the bed so the rollers can push/pull more smoothly.
I have done all of those things and MORE, and I still have snipe--I don't have a planar as nice as yours but I have pretty much given up on getting rid of snipe--good video though
Few things to try that weren’t mentioned in the video- taking very light passes and a planer sled. Also making sure tour in and outfeed rollers are cleaned. Ive heard of people removing tension in the rollers( not an option on my planer) to reduce the force they apply which is supposed to help with the board getting pushed into the cutterhead with the cutterhead movement. But i cannot verify that one.
Thanks great stuff
good video camera got me dizzy lol!
Why are you using steel wool to apply wax??? That’s going to leave steel residue on the surface and also going to scare the surface of the planer bed over time. That’s a terrible method to apply. It’s literally going to add fine metal into your wood.
Steel residue? Its not an issue. People have been polishing wood finishes with steel wool for years.
This is probably not a good argument to enter but real tools and machinery usually perform better than toys. Depending on your project you can always orient any irregular end with snipe so that it faces in and can't readily be seen. Alternatively, leave the work piece a little long and cut the snipe off to finished board size. Adjusting sheet metal and hoping it stays exactly in place on vibrating/reciprocating machinery is a losing proposition.
This addresses specifically bench top machines and some of their issues. Adjusting the wings so they are higher on either side compensates for the feed roller pressure which is why it helps with snipe, same principal as lifting the boards when feeding them in or out.
I just run it back through my jointer to get rid of the snipe.
Being new to woodworking, these look like great tips.
One huge question that I believe should've been addressed in the beginning.
What is snipe? You never said what snipe is, never showed an example of what snipe is. Last I heard, snipe is a small bird.
In woodworking, what is snip?
Snipe is a divot created at either ends of the board caused by the planer, typically about 3 inches from either side of the board
@@606woodworks4
Thank you I appreciate that.
Now to apply your suggestions.
I didn't know what snipe was either.
@@dscritter614
I honestly knew it was a small bird. But a term for the wood chattering was new to me.
I'm glad I'm not alone.
@@606woodworks4 I figured what snipe probably is- thanks for confirming it.
I just picked up an old Roybi 10" planer from a curb sale, so I went into youtube to investigate.
When using the infeed and outfeed extensions do you keep them flat even with bed or do you raise the outer ends like you suggested when using the supplied tables?
I raise them up as in the video.
As a detailer for automobiles, why are you applying paste wax with a steel wool pad? Your adding micro-scratches to the polished plate. Use a cloth so your not adding to the "grabbyness" of the steel by roughing it up at a micro level. Other than that....thank you VERY much. Great tips.
Its 0000 steel wool. Its more of a polish.
What if I really hate what I saw?
This video is all, "what you wanna do", i.e, "just do this". No explanation, just do what I say. Also, tip 3 & 4 contradicts #2. So yeah... YMMV.
The absolute easiest way to eliminate snipe is to raise the wood as it exists the planer. Done….
That’s why you told the be up, to counter the down force. Done!
Very Good!... 44
That is not going to remove snipe
Are the ends of the auxiliary in-feed and out-feed boards level with bed or ??
They are set to be about 1/8in above the bed to counteract the rollers pressing down on the board.
I have that exact planer. What's the shortest board I can put through it?
Theoretically the shortest board would be the distance plus a few inches more between rollers. However, to be safe I would go a bit longer.
Why steel wool? Doesn't that introduce scratches?
Use 0000 you wont have problems
Superb Nd informative, thank you for posting this. I'm in Spain, anyone know what paste wax is and where to buy it in Spain?
Hey Clive, paste wax ,generally , is carnuba based wax for wood working purposes. Im not sure if these are available globally but it is a common base for waxes and polishes.
Search ' make paste wax.'
It's also called furniture wax by some manufactures. I think Briwax is very popular.
are there plans for your extensions?
no, i just thru them together for the cart. I have since swapped carts and will be doing an update on this vid w/out the tables in the near future.
sounds good, or you can live with the snipe those shitty planers produce and just cut off the unusable ends. Lets face it, what true carpenter puts a finished length through a planer?
Yours is a solution to no-ones problems.
I cleaned the surface very well then applied 3 coats of nu-finsh car wax.
Nu-Finish contains NO wax. It's labeled as a polish. I reload ammunition and use it in my polishing media to get new-looking brass.
Use Johnson's paste wax. Home Depot carries it. Best wax out there in my opinion. Have used it for decades. BTW, car wax/polish usually has silicone in it which creates a horror show on wood finish.
thanks
You’re just moving the snipe to the center of the board
Never seen snipe in the middle of a board.
What is Snipe?
So adjust my tables so they are not flat or use a board that is flat. I see.
that's what I was thinking. lol
It's about compensating for the uneven leverage applied to either end of the wood by the rollers inside the machine when only one roller is in contact with the work piece (when it enters and exits). The factory infeed & outfeed tables have some give, so raising them introduces a leverage which opposes the force of the roller. The long, flat table prevents the roller from leveraging the wood by supporting it along a greater length.
Stop moving the camera, you,are making me dizzy
yeah snipe sucks, thank you for the tips!!!
What model is this planer?
This is the DeWalt 735 13” planer.
Very good,just asking so please don't get hostile.I think when demonstrating, always point out the safety of making sure that the instrument is unplugged.
Wrong.
This ytv made me dizzy. Dude , get a camera stand and redo. Next
Charlie Odom, what will catch more fly's, honey or vinegar? Your acidic responses just prove that being a jerk is alive and well. You can have your opinion and are certainly entitled to it, but going to this extreme to attempt forcing another to accept that opinion is over the top woke.
Charlie's comments being correct does not qualify them as being acidic. They are not opinion. They are correct based on the physics of the machine. (BTW- the word is "flies.")
@@David-hm9ic another opinion which is fine regardless of how incorrect. Thanks for your input Einstein.