#concrete
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- Even though I've shown in other videos how to make this mix, I have had inquiries as to how to make a concrete mix that is like clay that can be shaped, molded, carved or stamped. This is one of my mixes. Please be aware that, when I refer to percentages of additives, the percentage of additive is based on the amount of CEMENT and NOT on the whole mix. So, when I say, for example, to add 20% metakaolin, that is 20% of the amount of portland cement. So, if I use 10 cups of portland cement, the amount of metakaolin would be 2 cups, which is 20% of 10 cups. This mix uses portland cement, fine sand, fiber, acrylic admix and metakaolin, which I buy from Fishstone in Crystal Lake, Illinois. A 40 pound bag makes one heck of a lot of this type of concrete. In this video, I use the mix to create a sculpted and carved faux bois concrete bridge.
to summarize the video: 5c fine sand, 10c OPC, 2c metakaolin, 0.5-0.75c pva fiber, 5c liquid (liquid is 3 parts water to 1 part acrylic admixture). power mix til small clumps/balls form. then mix/knead by hand with small additions of liquid (less than 1c).
Yes, that's about right. Start with 1/2 the amount of cement in water and add tiny amounts until the mix is desired consistency.
I love it, I love it , I love it, I have been searching for this method type, and after multiple videos and information nothing this like this , this is exactly what I need for all my projects. All in one , clay and cement, and the best is water proof as well. Thank you, than you. You are a professional ''old school'' handy man.
Mr. Perry thanks so much for your recipe and instructions! I followed them and used the "clay" to fashion a full-sized copy of a 1922 cubist sculpture, "Sitting Man" by Jacques Lipchitz. I built a framework out of hardware cloth and steel wool with a hot glue gun and then added the clay mixture to the framework, mixing only about a double handful at a time. It worked out great! I used a Dremel tool to smooth the final surface and then painted it to look like bronze. I learned a few things about making sharp edges and dealing with cracks. If anyone wants any tips I am happy to pass them along with pictures.
I'm glad you found the mix worthwhile. Please share what you did on your channel.
Can we see the pics please? If you could post them on your channel, thanks!
How did you deal with cracks? And making shape edges would love to know thank you
How do you deal with cracking?
Thanks for all the videos and recipes. You've helped me immensely! I'm currently rebuilding my 250' stone wall. My neighbours think I'm nuts but I love mixing a few buckets of mortar and setting a few stones first thing in the morning .
It is so kind of you to share this information and respond to each person's questions. Thank you very much.
My pleasure. Thank you.
Thanks so much for such an interesting video.
May I also say, you have the patience of a saint in responding to the myriad questions - often exactly the same question already posted by someone else and already answered by you - if only people took a moment to read your thoughtful replies first!
Thank you for the comments. I spent 34 years teaching science to 8th grade kids. I got used to them asking the same things over and over, sometimes right after another just asked the same thing. Also, sometimes people are in too big a hurry to read through the comments to see if it's already been covered. Thanks again.
He's the best on utube, still waiting for the book.
Forget the wait. I'm too old and there are already a ton of books about concrete out there.
I really appreciate this video. None of the other videos I have found on sculpting concrete share a detailed recipe. I have watched your video 5 times or more while waiting on the metakaolin to arrive before trying it myself.
When you make the mix, it is very important that you are careful with the amount of water added. No mix can be like clay if too much water is added.
@@dperry428 thank you
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and recipe. The consistency with the Metakaolin looks ideal for sculpting and is exactly what I was researching. A note about handling dry powders, especially ones with silica related ingredients, but also the Metakaolin and the cement: inhaling these fine dusts is so very harmful to the lungs. Each maker can do as they like, but for your other readers, may I suggest that if you value the ability to breath effectively into later years, wear a dust mask, and make an effort not to ‘poof’ the dry ingredients into a cloud around yourself as you work. But even the finest mist of these powders is harmful. Here in the U.S. family physicians routinely ask patients “Do you have exposure to coal dust/suffer from Black Lung disease”? They ask that because the fullness of time around coal dust has shown the known debilitating harms from coal dust; and there is a program to compensate such workers. It’s only a matter of time before silicosis sufferers join that unfortunate club, for which any compensation is little comfort--needing oxygen and being unable to exert yourself is a terrible consequence.
Please note that the dust does not come up from the bucket but is blown laterally out the garage since there is a floor fan blowing dust away. Also, keep in mind that silica, such as in silica sand and silica fume are not the same thing and do not pose the same risks, though dust of any kind should be avoided. Silica is crystalline and silica fume is amorphous. Silica fume poses its own risks, but research indicates it is not associated with the cancer risks of crystalline silica. Metakaolin is made from kaolin clay and contains about 6% silica. Like all dust, inhalation should be avoided.
You're help is so appreciated..thank you for taking time with new people on your channel.
Happy to help
Thanks so much! I've been looking for this recipe for quite some time. My profile picture is one of my pieces made with cement and cast glass. It will be great to make my own mix rather than hoping a premix will work properly.
Hope you like it!
Once more another great instructional video Mr. Perry. Thank you for taking the time as I'm sure it took you twice the time to prepare behind the scenes as it took to shoot it. And if you're an old ox like me you will pay no nevermind to my advice but please sir do take extra care with these dust particles as they are extremely poisonous especially the PC. Godspeed.
If you listen carefully, you'll hear the double fans in the background blowing the dust away from me and out the garage door.
Hello sir
This video is extremely helpful for us. Who need such knowledge. Thanks a lot for sharing this video.
Regards.
What you did is very good! It would be great if you gave the exact brands you use and inexperienced people like me can do it,thank you so much!
This is where I buy my additives: concretecountertopsupply.com/?reqp=1&reqr= You want to copy exactly what I mixed? Buy the supplies from them and have them shipped. Usually, it is cheaper to research sources locally and pick them up. Brand names are inconsequential. Portland cement bought at a home improvement store, as well as sand. It doesn't matter where you buy sand and cement. Just buy the finest sand you can get locally OR, buy fine sand from Fishstone concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/SilicaSand4050 Acrylic is also from Fishstone concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/KongKrete-Acrylic-Polymer-GFRC
Your projects are totally awsome, and inspire.
So much respect to you for still being able to use your knees like that! I'm jealous. Anyway thank you so much for this amazing idea!
Just had the right knee replaced in December.
Te saludo maestro...gracias por compartir la sabiduría adquirida a través de tu experiencia...Mucha salud para ti y los tuyos.
Gracias
This is extremely helpful, thank you for taking the time and energy to share this with us.
Glad it was helpful!
Probably the best looking portland/clay mix i've seen on youtube. Was that hydrated lime you added?
No, it's metakaolin.
Not sure if i missed it, but ... what is the working time on this? And thanks !! You just opened up a whole new world of possibilities for me. Your experience is excellent and i thank you for the education.
Working time is highly variable, depending on temperature, humidity, wind, sun or shade. Under normal conditions, at least a couple of hours. Want to extend working time? Add ice bags to the liquid. Remove the mix from the bucket and spread it out on plastic to dissipate heat of reaction. Add small amount (less than 1/10th of one percent) sugar or molasses.
Wow, what a great faux bois method and project. Your bridge is superb! You should add #fauxbois to your comments so people can find this method.
Thanks for the suggestion. I added it to the tags.
Thank you so much. I thought that might be what needed to be done.. Feel much more confident tackling the job. What a nice thing you do. Sincerely, Bernice, Napanee, Ontario
Granted, working time is variable on environmental conditions, but can you give an example of your experience of how long it was workable for you? Your environment, etc. Thank you in advance for your time. Awesome info!
You may not like the answer, but I'll say it again; it depends on environmental conditions. On a very hot day in the 90's, I had to use ice to cool the water, shade the area and work quickly. On those days, initial set could be less than an hour. When the temperatures were in the 60's, cloudy and not windy, I had several hours to work and would still hope it was setup before dark so that raccoons and kids couldn't mess with it. I learned quickly that high temperatures, wind and sun were the enemies of working time and flash setup was a real possibility. On those days, I compensated by using ice bags in the water and working under a patio umbrella. That's also a time to use set retarders such as citric acid, sugar or molasses. I don't like chemical retarders as it's very easy to use too much and end up with a mix that won't set at all. Lots of working time, then.
Thank you for sharing the knowledge.
My pleasure!
Hello there Mr. Perry.... so I've watched your video more than once and I do have one question. In your descriptors of your video you mention acrylic mix and maybe I just missed it on your video but I didn't see where you added this component and if you did; can you tell me how many minutes into the video you demonstrated or can you just let me know how much to add and what product do you recommend or even if it's necessary. I really appreciate it and I'm grateful you have shared.
The acrylic is a liquid and is added to the water. I use a product from Fishstone concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/KongKrete-Acrylic-Polymer-GFRC It is 50% solids, so I dilute it 3 water to 1 acryllic. You can buy acrylic, such as Quikrete's Acrylic Fortifier at Lowes and other home improvement stores. Home Depot carries a product from Sika that should not be diluted more than 1 water to 1 acrylic. Watch this part of the video ua-cam.com/video/e4j5qgNFQE0/v-deo.html and note the on-screen caption.
Hi! So impressed with your creativity! Was wondering how long you have to work with that mix before it starts to dry and become too stiff? Have you ever worked with superplasticizers? I've heard a few drops will make the mix "wet" again.
Working time is highly variable, depending on temperature, humidity, wind, sun or shade. Under normal conditions, at least a couple of hours. Want to extend working time? Add ice bags to the liquid. Remove the mix from the bucket and spread it out on plastic to dissipate heat of reaction. Add small amount (less than 1/10th of one percent) sugar or molasses. Using plasticizers in this mix would be counterproductive. This mix is used for vertical application and sculpting. Superplasticizer would result in the mix sagging, slumping or running. Superplasticizer will also work over a short period of time and the mix will stiffen quickly. Redosing with it will result in faster restiffening. Further, superplasticizer will result in lowered freeze/thaw resistance. Superplasticizer is meant to be used to make concrete with less water and have it flow easily and self-consolidate.
@@dperry428 Wow, thanks- you are a wealth of knowledge!
This exactly what i was looking for.just wish you would have been more in depth about what the produces used were and where we as viewers could get them.thanks for the video.im trying to make some outside yard art and needing something i xan shape with My hands but not have to put in oven or kiln
This video explains the ingredients other than silica fume. ua-cam.com/video/etSWuBIcdZc/v-deo.html My supplier is Fishstone concretecountertopsupply.com/
Thank you for sharing your mix!! Your work is awesome!
Just what I have been looking for! It looks like a great media to work with, then carve, without having to fire the final product. I imagine one could cast with this material as well. I will try this with small quantities.
I didn't understand the name of the ...... fibre to add.
Also, would have loved to have seen the finished/carved project. Thank you for this video!
PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) fiber concretecountertopsupply.com/pva-fibers/ I use this mix for undersides of sculpting. Increase to 1 sand to 1 cement for normal sculpting. For casting, I change the mix to 2 or 3 sand to 1 cement, reduce the metakaolin to 10%, add 8% silica fume. You might also like to add superplasticizer when using molds. This video shows me finishing the bridge project with a 1 sand to 1 cement mix. ua-cam.com/video/Fd-6IWia0Ms/v-deo.html
@@dperry428 thank you!
I can't wait to try this mix! It seems like exactly what I've been trying to make - concrete that will stick to the underside of a project. Thank you for all your great instructions!
The real trick is to take your time about adding liquid. Start with half the volume of liquid as cement volume, add small amounts, completely mixing the added liquid before adding any more. When it reaches the exact consistency you want, keep kneading it for a couple minutes. Add a tiny amount more if needed to maintain consistency. As you use it, wet gloves and repeated kneading will keep it workable. The wet gloves also keep the mix from sticking to the gloves and wanting to pull off the underside when it's applied. It is also helpful to take it out of the bucket and put it on a board to allow heat of hydration to dissipate so it doesn't set up too fast.
dperry428 Thanks for the tips! I'll get over to my local masonry supply this week and get the metakaolin and acrylic polymer I need. I've been using hypertufa-type recipes to cast and sculpt some planters and garden ornaments, but I was getting frustrated that I can't sculpt with it the way I really want to. From your demonstration with sculpting it over the armature, it seems this is going to let me try some new things, like maybe a standing animal figure. So inspired now! 😃
In my usage, I want maximum strength. For sculptures, if you want an even easier mix to surround an armature, replace all or some of the sand with a lighweight aggregate. The resulting lighter mix will be less likely to fall off the armature because of it weight. If you can find a source of fine perlite (the stuff sold in garden centers as a soil amendment) or a source of fine pumice, both, being light volcanic rock, will make the mix much lighter while remaining strong.
dperry428 Oh, I've used perlite in some of my hypertufa recipes, so I have a good supply for experimenting. Thank you for your advice! I like for my sculptures to look old, like something from the grounds of an ancient castle, so I'm also going to try adding a little peat to give it a worn texture and encourage the growth of moss.
Just be aware that adding organic peat might affect the chemistry of the mix and make it unworkable. Experiment with a small quantity first. Texture of worn concrete can also be accomplished with a damp sea sponge and a stiff brush. Also, keep in mind that the purpose of hypertufa is to make the concrete porous so that water will drain from planters. Peat will do the same with your sculptures and provide pathways for water to find its way to the metal armature, resulting in corrosion of the reinforcement. That is the single greatest cause of structural concrete deterioration. Water gets to the metal reinforcement and corrodes it. The resulting metal oxides (rust) take up more space than the metal itself and expands against the concrete matrix, causing the concrete to spall, crack and fall apart. Hypertufa techniques do not lend themselves to durable metal-reinforced concrete. I would highly recommend putting on two coats, the first covering the metal without the addition of peat and then a second layer containing the peat-texturing method you propose.
Wonderful, thank you sir!
And thanks for the link to fishstone. 👍 Lots to look at
You're welcome. It's a great company to deal with.
Thank you so much for this interesting video. But I wonder what is the specification of this acrylic admixture you have used. What is the name of it exactly? Because I would like to purchase it
Acrylic bonding agent/ admix. There are dozens of brands. Look here: www.google.com/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=acrylic+admix+bonding+agent+brands&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjNu6Hdh-XxAhWG_54KHdzUCdMQjJkEegQIHRAC&biw=1507&bih=678&dpr=1.25
@@dperry428 thank you so much for your reply.
I will use this. It will be okay right?
www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiKv_iqqOzxAhXMBQYAHX3MBrUYABAEGgJ3cw&ae=2&sig=AOD64_1pCWlt8jRgT1i_-bqA0Prx5wmpag&adurl&ctype=5&ved=2ahUKEwjWxO2qqOzxAhVQLxoKHTlqDDEQwg96BAgBEDM&dct=1
Also, thanks for your videos, they are very helpful.
Very nice recipe. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I appreciate all your answers.
Sir,
I have been watching most of your videos with great interest, thank you for spending the time to share your knowledge.
I have a question for you if you don't mind,
Would you have a concrete recipe for casting garden statuary in latex molds?
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
You can use the same recipes and add superplasticizer to make the mix more fluid to flow into the mold.
Great consistency
This is a wonderful video. I can’t thank you enough. May I ask: why do you use the two layers of chicken wire and concrete? Is one layer not stable enough?
It's a construction concept known as ferrocement, sometimes referred to as thin-wall construction. The combination of cementitious mix along with multiple layers of fine wire, mesh and/or metal rod, produces a very strong structural element. Third world countries have been using ferrocement for the construction of water tanks for many years. In fact, during World War Two, ships were constructed of ferrocement. For more information: ferrocement.net/
@@dperry428 Thanks for the thoughtful response!
What is the project you are working on in this video ? Is it finished now ? Are there additional videos of the finished thing ? This is very enjoyable to watch !
I was working on the final coat of my pond bridge project. It has not been completely finished due to a hip problem I am having. (It will be replaced on Feb 16th). The project can be seen in the videos in this playlist ua-cam.com/video/oW_6EmdS3j8/v-deo.html
After 2 years and 3 surgeries, I've finally finished the bridge. Here's the final video. ua-cam.com/video/Fd-6IWia0Ms/v-deo.html
I was looking for a concrete mix that would be able to be hand pressed into silicone molds that I am making for some hollow artificial rock shells, and it seems like your recipe might work very well! My only concern is how strong the shells will be on the chance that someone decides to step on the rock once it's out in the garden. I may have to modify the recipe a bit to increase strength.
I did not notice your suggestion in the description right away and scoured the internet looking for a source for the metakaolin and had a difficult time. Luckily I came back to the video and noticed the reference to Fishstone. I live only about 25 minutes away from them! I will definitely be looking into placing an order with them soon as they also sell pigments and fibers, other supplies I was also having trouble locating a retailer for.
This particular recipe I use for final coats to sculpt and create textures. For greater structural strength, check out this video.
ua-cam.com/video/etSWuBIcdZc/v-deo.html
Fishstone is a great company to work with. Tom and Carrie are the owners and can be great assistance to you in meeting your needs. I've learned a great deal from them. Call ahead to get supplies. They are usually too busy to handle straight walk-ins.
@@dperry428 Great, thank you so much! I will give them a call tomorrow. Maybe they'd be able to offer some advice and product recommendations on my specific project as well.
Tell them I said hello. BTW, I'm in Genoa, IL
I purchased SikaLatex R bonding agent from Lowes. It works fantastic. I'm moving forward with my project on such a happy note now. Thank you!
Just don't dilute it more than 1 to 1 with water. It has a much lower solids content than what I use. I'd bet the problem you had with the dry stuff is a matter of knowing how to dissolve it in water. Kind of like making gravy. Add the flour too quickly and you get lumpy gravy. Good luck. I hope the mix works well for you.
@@dperry428 Thank you! This information will help me a lot. I had mixed 1 part acrylic to 2 parts water .I will take your advise moving forward. So far so good. I'm loving my project. If interested my project is 30'wide by 4' high rock wall with a rock wall waterfall that will be about 10'w up to 8' tall at the end. Thanks again.
Please post a video of you progress. I'd like to see what you are doing.
is this bonding agent added instead of fibers or metakolin?
No, it's in addition to fiber and metakaolin.
You are really inspiring sir!!
This is fantastic! Thank you so much for teaching us this.
My pleasure!
Thank you! Once a teacher.......... Is this a fence structure? I think it's been a while since we've had a tour of your projects!
This is the railing on my bridge project that I started last fall. I've got the structural coats done on the bridge and I'll be starting the finish coat and texturing to make it look like wood. I am putting on a safety railing on the bridge approach and that's what is in the video.
Thanks for this, it’s the best video I’ve found on UA-cam for this process!
Glad it was helpful!
@@dperry428 helpful AND inspiring, thanks!
Hi, how are you? My name is Mohamed from Jordan. I started following you on the page and liked your work very much. I want you to teach me what the cement mixture is if you are generous.
Did you watch the video? The recipe is there.
Where can I find metakaolin powder?
Here's where I get mine concretecountertopsupply.com/metakaolin-40lb-bag/ They ship. Other sources will depend upon where you live. I suggest you go here and contact them for distributors near you. www.metakaolin.com/
Thanks for this information. I have used this mix and it works great. I apologize if I missed info on your mix for making a vertical mix that has very little slump. What mix do you recommend for making a light fluffy vertical mix? Thanks
Depends on what strength and durability you want. Lightweight concrete gives up strength for lighter weight. Generally, as in my fence, I used 3 sand to 1 cement for a base coat and 1 or 2 sand to 1 cement for overlying faux rock. If you want lightweight, substitute perlite or vermiculite for some or all of the sand, again depending on how light you want it. For example, you might have 1 part sand, 1 part perlite and 1 part cement. Remember that in a finish coat, it will be hard to hide the lightweight aggregate. You might have to go over with a final thin coat of sand/cement to cover the lightweight aggregate. I don't think I would consider any mixes as "fluffy" except maybe foamed concrete (aircrete), but I wouldn't even consider its use as it is very low strength. At any rate, I would still include metakaolin, silica fume, acrylic and fiber to increase density an eliminate porosity.
Forgot to add that it is critical that you add liquid very carefully and slowly. Just a small amount too much and you go from a mix that stays put and one that runs or falls off the vertical surface. Mixing technique is most important, no matter the mix.
How long can you work with the cement before it starts to “ set up?”..
Thank you for your generosity in sharing your skill.
Depends on temperature. When it's hot outside, it starts to stiffen in a few minutes. Kneading it gets it more workable again. You can also wet the gloves and knead it and it gets very workable again. Otherwise, in cooler weather I can work with it for at least an hour or more. Even then, it might not be completely unworkable. I can still texture it with tools. It sets enough to be rainproof in a couple of hours.
Exactly my question! Thank you so much!
Sir could you please let me know all rhe ingredents you have there.like what is the white liquid.where do i get the cement without rocks.i ordered the metakaolin shoukd be in in a few days.every bit of my cement pots are falling apart.ugh
You might like to watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/etSWuBIcdZc/v-deo.html It has a detailed explanation of the ingredients.
Cement is the glue that holds concrete together. Concrete is the mix of aggregates (sand and/or gravel), additives cement and water. The white liquid acrylic bonding agent/admix. Cement can be purchased at home improvement stores and is labeled "Portland Cement". Carefully watch how much liquid you add to your mixes. Too much water makes for very weak concrete.
What did you add to the water to make it white? Paint?
As it said in the text displayed in the video, "Liquid is 3 parts water to 1 part acrylic admix that is 50% solids". Acrylic admix/bonding agent is white.
Wow, thank you! No one has ever answered me before! I’ll let you know how it goes!
I was a science teacher for 34 years. I guess I can't get over trying to answer questions. I try to answer questions as quickly as I can.
Hi, thanks for this video., it's absolutely what i'm looking for :). A question : what is acrylic bonding ? glue ? is for this reason the water is white ? Thanks
The acrylic is a liquid and is added to the water. I use a product from Fishstone concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/KongKrete-Acrylic-Polymer-GFRC It is 50% solids, so I dilute it 3 water to 1 acryllic. You can buy acrylic, such as Quikrete's Acrylic Fortifier at Lowes and other home improvement stores. Home Depot carries a product from Sika that should not be diluted more than 1 water to 1 acrylic. Watch this part of the video ua-cam.com/video/e4j5qgNFQE0/v-deo.html and note the on-screen caption
thank you my friend very useful , good man bless Wales
Would this mix hold up in a clay stove application? It would be helpful to have the recipe in the description. Thanks for this idea. I was Iooking at aircrete for my stoves and this caught my attention.
I don't know what a clay stove is. If it involves high heat, I would look for a recipe that is specific to high heat applications. I've no experience using concrete for that application, so I can't be much help.
@@dperry428 Thanks friend. It does involve heat. I guess I wiII just have to use clay! Thanks for the quick response.
@@thelordschurchfarmandranch6694 ad fire clay to the mix
Portland cement starts to dehydrate and turn crumbly at about 300C, so if you omit the PVA fiber (or use glass/carbon/basalt fiber) and keep the temps below that, you'll be fine. If you go over, then you'll need something with no Portland cement at all. Were I you, I'd experiment with metakaolin geopolymer cement. The stuff sets fast and has to be mixed precisely (you should measure by weight, not volume) but it survives well past 750C. You can make it by THOROUGHLY mixing metakaolin (substitute
So hard to get the concrete additives in Canada .
You're not trying very hard. The only additives I'm using in this video are metakaolin and acrylic bonding agent/admix.
Metakaolin is produced from kaolin clay, which is mined in Canada and metakaolin is produced in Canada. Contact this company for local sources or distributors: www.whitemudresources.com/
Do a simple search for home improvement stores in Canada. If they have concrete products, they have acrylics. There are Lowes and Home Depot stores in Canada.
Wow! Thanks!
I love watching your videos and have a question about the Acryl additive you use.
I have seen you apply it to already dry parts of your projects that you are adding new material too in order to help bond the old with the new.
It seems in this video that it must play a part in getting that clay-like consistency. Let me know if I have this correct.
Are there other reasons why you would use Acryl in a mix?
Thank you for all of your instruction.
The acrylic is known as acrylic bonding agent and admix. I use it as an additive to every concrete mix I make. It is an emulsion of 50% solids that I buy in 5 gallon buckets. It can be used undiluted as a bonding agent to make new concrete bond to old concrete or it can be used diluted with water to use as an additive in concrete mixes, where it increases the strength of the concrete, increases the bonding strength, increases the workability of the concrete and helps make concrete less permeable to water. I mix the 50% solids at 1 part acrylic to 3 parts water and wouldn't think of making concrete without it. To make a mix even more like clay, the dilution can be reduced to 1 part acrylic to 2 parts water or to 1 to 1. The only problem with using higher concentrations is it will interfere with coloring the concrete with acid stains. Acrylic for concrete can be purchased at home improvement stores but most of it is about 25% solids, so a normal dilution of 1 acrylic to 2 water is maximum dilution.
Thank you! So helpful. Do you think this could work (and not crack) applied directly over a carved styrofoam sculpture without having a chicken wire/mesh layer?
PVA fiber will go a long way to help with preventing cracks. I'd first make a slurry of the mix and scrub it on the styrofoam with a brush and then cover with the mix. That will assure a good bond. Also, increasing the amount of acrylic helps prevent cracks.
@@dperry428 Thank you, thank you! I'm going to try it.
this is great because i need it to hold its shape for a large inflatable form.
I always watched your videos and like them. What is the liquid contains other than water? I am planning to resurface my 30 year old patio and thinking if I can create a mix myself rather than buying the QUIKRETE Concrete Resurfacer. What should be the good ratio of play sand, portland cement and water for that resurfacer mix? Should I apply Quikrete Concrete Bonding Adhesive on my old concrete before applying the mix? Also, is 1/16 thicknes going to be ok or should I apply 1/8?
The liquid I mix with water is acrylic bonding agent/admix. The brand I am using is KongKrete from Fishstone. Quikrete's brand is Quikrete Acrylic Concrete Fortifier. Were I resurfacing a patio, I'd use the bonding agent on the old surface as well as add acrylic to the mix water. I am not a concrete expert or contractor, but my advice would be to use the mix made for resurfacing and follow the manufacturer's recommendation as to the thickness of application. I resurfaced my concrete front porch about 9 years ago with my own mix with a thickness that varied, to level the surface, from 1/8th inch to slightly more than 1 inch. I prepped the surface with the same acrylic undiluted as I used in the mix liquid diluted 3 water to 1 acrylic.
Muhammad Siddiqui mr Perry is correct. Apply a bonding agent to the surface 24 hours before you plan on pouring then again just before you pour. When you can walk on it without it lifting up you are ready to pour. The moisture in the concrete will reactivate the adhesive. If you stop or in a hot location (direct sun light) you will need to reapply.
I'm so new to UA-cam. I have uploaded some of my work that I have already completed. Please let me know if you have viewed them. I will try to upload my rock work I've started and boy do I love doing this! Thank you for your inspiration that is very contagious!!
Took a look at your videos. Looks like you're well underway. Make sure you share your results. You'll enjoy doing this kind of thing for years to come.
@@dperry428 Thank you! I'm loving it so much!!
Awesome! Thanks so much for sharing! :)
That mud looks like a winner , but I am thinking the additives can be very expensive, especially if having to pay shipping from distance too far to pick up. I was wanting to find out if some type of common inexpensive chemical or product can be added to cement to give it a clay-like clumping feature. Was thinking of vertical wall or fence building without having to use forms.
That is the purpose of this mix and others I use -- vertical application and sculpting. There are mixes too numerous to list that are used by others to do the same thing. Many of them are commercial proprietary mixes that cost a small fortune to buy. That's why I make my own. What I have developed is what works for me. I am not an expert in concrete. I don't do research on other mixes and I certainly won't or can't vouch for other mixes. All I can suggest is do some research. Do a cost analysis of this mix, including shipping costs, compare it to commercially available mixes, including shipping costs and decide what is best for you, both functionally and economically.
dperry428 I have been looking into Pal Tiya, but this seems very similar an probably a lot cheaper. I want to sculpt a fountain. I assume I can just use some sealer on this stuff after it’s dried?
@@AaronDigitalMuppet The mixes I prepare are made to negate the need for sealers, though, if you want, there is no reason you can't use a sealer. Sealers, themselves, are different, too. Some, like siloxane, are penetrating sealers. Others are simply coatings that stay on the surface. For things like water features, including fountains, that are going to be constantly exposed to water, the penetrating sealers are more appropriate. Water is the enemy of concrete. Keep water out of it and the concrete will not deteriorate. A major function of metakaolin and other additives is to close off the porosity of concrete and prevent penetration of water. In my constructions that are going to be in water, I now also use a crystalline waterproofer, such as Xypex.
@@dperry428 Thank you for both a very detailed, and quick reply!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! Apologies if this has been asked, I have some fortified thinset mortar (both sanded/unsanded) I was wondering if you think your recipe could be modified to use it? I get it cheap at the home resale store, along with bottles of acrylic admix. My jaw would drop if ever the fibers and meta kaolin came in tho😂
The only time I've used thinset is to actually set tile in my bathrooms. I know that some people have used a combination of bagged sand mix and thinset to make their version of decorative concrete for doing faux rock. I know that thinset is made of fine sand, cement and a cellulose derivative and can also contain acrylic when it is called "polymer modified". However, I don't know the proportions of sand/cement. All I can suggest is to try it with metakaolin and see how it works for you.
Please list all the ingredients.Thanks .im a new subscriber
Sand, portland cement, metakaolin, PVA fiber, acrylic bonding agent/admix.
dperry428 acrylic bonding plus admix?
@@sol1799 The acrylic is marketed as bonding agent and/or admix.
Thanks so much for your generosity sharing this recipe for this clay-like concrete mixture with materials that are not too hard to find. I'm just curious: when you are squishing the concrete into the chicken wire structure, do you make sure all the air holes are filled? If you didn't, would it crack over time? Again, thanks so much - this is exactly what I've been searching for!
I squeeze the mix in as best I can. I can't absolutely guarantee that there might not be air bubbles left, but I can be sure that it will not crack. Concrete cracks because water can infiltrate, freeze, expand and break up the concrete. This mix, because of the metakaolin and acrylic admix is virtually impermeable to water. No water, no freezing, no cracking.
@@dperry428 I didn't ask the question but I'm reading to learn more from other people's questions.. I'm so glad I read this one because it helps me understand why your recipes contain the ingredients they do.
Actually it's like learning about various spices while learning to cook. It's very interesting....Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
I will look into that. Thank you soooo much.
Thank you so much for this video, what is the working time of this mixture ? And is there a way to extend the working time?
Working time will depend on atmospheric conditions. Warmer temperatures speeds things up, cooler slows them down. At room temperature, I have several hours before final set. The addition of tiny amounts of sugar will slow things down (1/10th of 1 percent or less of the weight of cement). Too much sugar will prevent setting at all. One can also add ice bags to the liquid used. Cold water will slow setting. Citric acid will also slow setting, as well as increase compressive strength. 15/100ths % of the weight of cement is the optimum.
some yrs back I experimented with a KirtBag mix and a TruePakX mix applied as a walkway 1/4" skim coat. Hand troweled and did some decorative stuff with it. It troweled smooth as butter, and it has held up quite well over the years. Loved it.
SO, I'm now thinking of using your mix over rough finished cement flooring as a smooth troweled finish coating, probably 1/4 to 1/2" (rather than ceramic tiles)....
Q: might fly-ash be a suitable substitute for metakaolin?
Q: the acrylic admixture (milk)... can an acrylic bonding agent (non-re-emulsifiable ) alternately be used ?
(I live overseas - there are no Lowes or HDs, and IF I were to find a concrete specialty shop 400km away it would not be practical.)
As I'm not a concrete expert, I can only share from my own experience and from what I've read. I have personally never used fly ash, but from what I have read, they are quite different in effect. Read from this site: precast.org/2020/01/a-closer-look-fly-ash-slag-cement-metakaolin/ As for non-reemulsifiable acrylic, I use the product I for both bonding and as an admix. Many are sold as "bonding agent/admix". You just have to know the solids content to know how much to dilute it with water. You want to end up with liquid that is at least 6% solids, preferably more. The stuff I use is 50% solids and I dilute it 3 water to 1 acrylic.
Do you have listed somewhere, the exact amounts of each ingredient? I lost ya after 10 C of cement. I'm extremely interested in trying this. How long do you have to work with it b4 it starts to set up?
This particular mix was 1 part SAND to 2 parts cement (very high cement content) Then add 20% of the cement content in metakaolin. If there are 10 cups of cement, for example, add 2 cups of metakaolin. I also used PVA fiber, which you may or may not want to add. The liquid contains about 10 to 20% acrylic solids. In my case, I had acrylic stock solution that was 50% solids, so I mixed 1 part of the acrylic stock solution with 3 parts water to make the liquid I used. From that 3 to 1 solution, I started adding liquid to the dry mix by using 1/2 the volume of cement. So, if the mix contained, say 10 cups of cement, I'd add 5 cups of liquid to start. Then, mixing very thoroughly, only add very, very small amounts of liquid until the desired consistency is obtained. At the end of the mixing, you must treat it like bread dough and knead it by hand to end up with the clay-like mix. It is VERY easy to add too much liquid and end up with soup. Take it slow on adding liquid. Working time depends on environmental conditions, such as temperature. You can slow the set by using chilled liquid. I put icebags in the liquid. You can also add a very small amount of sugar or molasses (no more that 1/2 % the amount of cement), so in the case of using 10 cups of cement in a mix, add no more than 2 1/2 teaspoons of sugar. You can also work until it starts to stiffen and then add a few drops of super plasticizer to loosen the mix again or, with some reduction in strength, add a small amount of original liquid to loosen the mix. Generally, you'll have at least an hour before you notice any significant stiffening of the mix. It won't begin to really harden for two to three hours. Even then, spraying with water will allow finishing details to be applied.
@@dperry428 Thank you so much for your detailed answer! I'm off to visit that Fishstone website, to see about products I won't find at Lowe's. Oh....Is it Portland Cement?
Yes, ordinary portland cement. You see it in many recipes as OPC. At Lowe's is sold in 94 lb bags. Wish they carried the 47 lb bags. Getting tough for us old guys to lift the 94's.
If you buy from Fishstone, say hi to Tom and Carrie. Great people to work with.
@@dperry428 Ah, ok. I hear ya, I just hauled an 80lb bag of Mortar in yesterday. No fun!
Hope you and your family are doing well during this Covid-19. I 'm nearing the end of my project and I would like to know if I need to add Xypex to my mix to make my pond better to handle the water. I will upload a new updated video tomorrow. It can be a real challenge because I don't have a stand to help me with the video. Thank you for your helpful videos. You are a VERY Talented man.
It's up to you. Xypex is expensive, but I wish that I had added it to my earliest projects. You can add Xypex admix to the mix at about 2 to 3% of the cement content or you can use Xypex Concentrate as a final coating or you can do both.
@@dperry428 Thank you. I will figure this out and let you know what I do in a video when I'm at that point in my project. We are in the process of installing lights right now. The water "mini pond" will be after that.
As small as the pond area is going to be, you might find it much more cost effective to just use Thoroseal to waterproof it.
Hello I would like to thank you for all the knowledge you have given (been watching and taking notes ) ordered a lot and started on a set of steps had a question about Sourcing xypex also when making a 3/sand to 1/cement or 2 to1 how much liquid to mix in as a starting point I think I overdid it Any way to fix that Thanks a lot I really appreciate you
I always start with about half the volume in liquid as I added in portland cement. So, if my mix contains 10 cups of cement, I start with 5 cups of liquid and slowly add as needed, mixing very thoroughly before adding more. That way, you never end up with soup.
Sorry, forgot to tell you about Xypex. That is only the name of one brand of crystalline waterproofer. Here are some more to look for besides Xypex: Penetron, Kryton Krystol, Vandex, Cristalproof, Aquafin, Greenseal, Cemcoat CW Plus, Incap, Contite. There are likely many more. If you go to a manufacturer's site, the usually have a link to find distributor's of their product.
Thank you so much. I love your work.
Glad you enjoy it!
Wondering if you're aware of using latex or acrylic paint as a DIY homebrew fortifier? Thanks for sharing also, you have some really awesome work!
Yes, there are people who do that, but keep in mind that there is more to acrylic paint than the acrylic it contains. There is a very real reason that it is strongly advised that the water used to make concrete should be clean enough to drink. Small amounts of unknown chemicals and other contamination can have adverse effects on the concrete. I wouldn't take chances by using unknown substances like paint in my mixes. Others can do as they wish -- and suffer the consequences when things go wrong. Homebrew is not always a wise course when dealing with chemical interactions.
Could I use hydrated lime instead of metakaolin? Thanks for your video
Sure, but then you'll just have mortar. Lots easier to just go buy a bag of mortar. Mortar will not give you the same mix as in this video.
@@dperry428 Ok, I'm struggling to find met where I live, might have to order some.
Look for some brand names:
usa.sika.com/en/construction-products/concrete/concrete-admixtures/durability-enhancement/metakaolin/sikacrete-m-100.html
concretecountertopsupply.com/metakaolin-40lb-bag/
Contact these people and ask for distributors:
www.metakaolin.com/
Please sir can you tell me what was the white powder that you added after the sand and cement . Is it necessary ?
Best regards
Iraq - Baghdad
Metakaolin. Absolutely it is necessary -- that's the whole point of the video.
Thanks for sharing, friend!
Absolutely wonder video!! Thank you so much - dumb question but what is the 5 cups liquid (3 parts water & 1 part admix) What did you use as measurements? Super excited to try this out!
I make up a bucket of liquid made up of 1 part acrylic to 3 parts water. The measurement device is meaningless. I use a yogurt container and fill it 1 time with acrylic and 3 times with water. You could use anything, just so you fill it three times with water for each time you fill it with acrylic. Once mixed, it is the liquid I use. The container I use to make the mix is a yogurt container that just happens to hold 5 cups. I also use a 1 cup measuring cup for other ingredients.
@@dperry428 Aaaaah!! You’re a genius - thank you so much ❤️
Thank you! Have you seen the tiles that look like wood planks? I bet if this ratio would be perfect to place in a thin silicon mold and make diy wood planks or brick shaped pavers.
Yes. Actually, if I were making molded wood tiles, I'd add silica fume to this mix, as well as a super plasticizer to make the mix stronger, self-consolidating and self-leveling. It would, indeed, be strong.
dperry428 Knowledge through experience is key. You are a pro. I have zero experience with cement. Thank you for your response and advice. I feel like I would like to try to make small batches of planks. Eventually. I could accumulate enough to floor over my concrete patio.
Just what i was looking for ! thanks
great work! thank you for your sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Could you please tell us whats the strength on this mix..?? I wanted to do some thing sculpture s.. Any suggestions?. Thanks to the great video
I don't know the strength of this particular mix. I use it for finishing layers where I want fine detail. It is not a structural mix, though I would increase the amount of sand to 1 part to 1part cement and reduce the metakaolin to 10% instead of 20% to make the mix more structural for base layer of sculptural pieces. When I'm doing something such as the bridge I made, where I need real structural strength, I'd use 2 or 3 parts sand to 1 part cement, add some CSA cement and some silica fume as well. That makes a very strong mix of 15K to 20K psi.
questions, what is the working time with this mixture? you talk about carving, does that mean it does not become as hard as concrete and how does it withstand the weather? meaning rain, snow tempteratues in the single numbers, and so on.
Working time for this mix, like any concrete mix, depends on many variables, such as temperature, humidity, wind conditions and exposure to direct sunlight. Set time can be controlled with the use of cold water or even ice in the mix to delay set, as well as addition of retarding agents, such as sugar. You can speed set time by using hot water or an accelerator such as calcium chloride. I didn't talk about "carving" except in reference to a commercial "carving mix" that I was going to try in the future. Regardless, concrete hardens in several stages, including initial set and final set, during which concrete loses its plasticity and begins hardening. It then continues to harden over a period of approximately a month. I texture the surface of the mix before, during and after initial set. If additional texturing becomes necessary, one actually can carve it like very soft stone. As it continues to harden, techniques used in sculpturing hard stone need to be employed, such as grinding or chipping. Once this mix sets, it is very dense and very hard. As hard as concrete? Yes, because it IS concrete. I live in northern Illinois. We have extreme temperature changes from 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer to -25 degrees in the winter. Because of its density, it is very resistant to water penetration, resistant to freeze/thaw cycles and far more durable than regular concrete mixes.
Have you use superplasticizers at all? I imagine that would help to reduce cracking in the sculpture?
No, the acrylic and fiber are more than adequate.
Thank you-video is verily instructive, I am sculptor and try different materials, and this is very helpful, which is the working time ?
dperry428
1 month ago
Working time is highly variable, depending on temperature, humidity, wind, sun or shade. Under normal conditions, at least a couple of hours. Want to extend working time? Add ice bags to the liquid. Remove the mix from the bucket and spread it out on plastic to dissipate heat of reaction. Add small amount (less than 1/10th of one percent) sugar or molasses.
dperry428 thank you for your fast response congratulation you’re a hard worker, I feel inspired by your work muchas gracias
With all your trial and error on mixes I’m assuming you’ve used fly ash? Do you prefer metakaolin over fly ash or find it easier to get your hands on? I get fly ash locally for my vertical mixes which I add 12-15% to (not in place of) I’ve not used metakaolin but just wondering your opinion on the two.
To get my “polymers” I’ve been using thin set mortar (12-15% to) but have been looking to switch to a liquid to use in place of water. Have you used the KongKrete liquid as a bonding between coats/batches as well?
I've not used fly ash as it is not, to my knowledge, readily available to me. Also, I've read that fly ash is, relative to metakaolin and silica fume, a weaker pozzolan. Where it is available, however, it is likely cheaper. I've also read of people using various mixes of thinset and concrete mixes for decorative concrete. Some have suggested 50/50 mixes of thinset and Quikrete or Sakrete sand mixes. I'm hesitant to use thinset as a source of acrylics. I was led to believe that the polymers in thinset were re-emulsifiable and not suited to outdoor use. I used to use Dayton-Superior J40 liquid acrylic emulsion but switched to KongKrete when I found that J40 was only 26% solids after having been told by sales people that it was 52%. I have dealt for a number of years now with Fishstone and their products. The KongKrete is clearly a superior product. Undiluted, it is as thick as whipping cream and definitely the highest solids content I've seen. Having dealt with Fishstone so long, I've found them to be very upfront and honest with their products. They have a dry powder version of KongKrete that they have assured me would not re-emulsify, but I still haven't tried it. If it performs as they say, it would be a lot cheaper to order online as you would not be paying to ship half the weight in water in the liquid form.
dperry428 The biggest plus of fly ash, for me anyway is of course cost. Because I get it locally I can get a 1,500 pound super sack for $125. That lasts me a long time. So being slightly weaker is worth it at that price unless it’s a huge difference in strength and workability.
As for the thin set, you are correct. A lot of it is re-emulsifiable. However, MAPAI does make one that is for wet or submerged areas. Still though, I like the idea of alleviating a powder (that needs more water) and replace it with a liquid. I’ve been getting a few more shrinkage cracks lately because we switched from applying it by hand to a mortar sprayer which needs a higher slump. So I’m assuming the extra water is causing it. The sprayer saves a lot of time so I’m trying to alter my mix to accommodate. I’m also talking to the local quickrete distributors to get their plastic cement shipped in. It’s Portland but premixed with a superplasticsizer. Hopefully easier that way so there’s no goof ups on adding to much of a plasticsizer in the field.
Thanks for the great information and quick reply!
I also wonder if this would work for doing ceramics on a pottery wheel
First, it's not ceramic clay; it's concrete. As far as using it on a pottery wheel, I have no experience with that. If you try it, let me know how it works.
Can you please list the ingredients with the amounts on a list?
Hi great vid - just wondering, for the sand do you use sharp sand or is it some kind of grit sand or paver sand ?
I use what's available. It's best to make sure it's a silica sand and, at least for the purposes of making it work like clay, the very finest you can get. When I was helping my brother in Tennessee with his pond, the sand we could get was ground up limestone an it was awful to use and not as strong. Unless you're a contractor, you use what's available from the local home store.
Great video!
This is wonderful, thanks so much for sharing your recipe. Out of curiosity, is this good for making outdoor statues and then using dremel to carve shapes/patterns into the finished product? I plan to make outdoor statues for my garden and would love to create one that is both resistant to rain-erosion and capable of allowing moss to grow on it (forgive if any ignorance is apparent in my comment; I am brand-spankin' new to concrete sculpting :) )
Yes, this recipe is much more resistant to weather damage than regular concrete. I've never done sculpting after the concrete has set. I do the sculpting while the concrete is in a clay-like stage. It would be very easy to continue to sculpt with just hand tools for a number of hours. Of course, as the concrete continues to cure, the harder it gets, until it is like sculpting rock. I use this recipe in all my outdoor work.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I cannot seem to find a supplier of PVA fiber, can I substitute with any other type of fibers such as polypropylene? Which would be the best substitute?
concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/PVA_6mm Yes, you can use other types of fiber. The first fibers I used were polypropylene. I found them difficult to disperse in the mix. They tended to clump. concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/AR_Glass_Fiber Glass fiber should be alkali resistant. Some people have told me they have chopped up fiberglass insulation and used it. That is NOT a good idea as it is not AR glass and will deteriorate with time and you've then lost the value of the fiber. Though I've never used them, there is nylon fiber, basalt fiber, steel fiber, and others. I like the PVA because it does not show in the finished surface. You can also find fiber on Amazon and ebay.
I wish shapecrete start selling again
What is the thinnest application I can use. Trying to resurface a clay pot and needing to keep shape and be strong. It has a special stand and I cannot find another. Trying to resurface out side of existing pot and will use indoors. Have never heard of some of the ingredients and hate talk of percentages. Like 5 cups this 10 cups of that.
This mixture sounds like it has properties of product called Pal Tiya. Very expensive stuff, also thickness sensative. Writing down your recipie and going shopping. Thank you for your video.
I don't know how thin you can go. If you use an initial coat of acrylic bonding agent (the white liquid), you should be able to actually paint on a layer. Can't help you with amounts other than percentages.
Great video. Thanks. What do you think of adding lime? I saw an artist who does that, & also looked at a home store selling lime, & the description says it adds 'plasticity' to the cement mix?
The acrylic, metakaolin and, in my general mix, silica fume all add plasticity and workability. Lime is used to make the mix stickier as in its use in mortar so that it adheres well to the brick or stone being laid. I used to use mortar cement instead of straight Portland before I began using metakaolin and silica fume. Mortar cement contains lime and I found that it made the mix much too sticky and difficult to apply to the underside of armatures. That's also why, in this clay-like mix, I eliminate the silica fume. I causes excessive stickiness that impedes application to the underside of my projects.
@@dperry428 I deeply appreciate you sharing your knowledge, as I have decided on these cement oriented materials for my art, after a lot of research, prayer, etc. You are awesome.
Thats another fine sticky mess you've got yourself into lol good job mr
Not as sticky as when one adds silica fume. That's why I leave it out of this particular mix.
I’d like to use this for jewelry pieces, could I eliminate the sand? I don’t want that texture in the jewelry.
You can certainly try it. The late Donald Tucker, renowned concrete artist used neap cement to create the finish coats on his faux bois pieces. The problem with using no sand is that it is prone to cracking if not cured properly. I'd try increasing the concentration of acrylic in the mix and, after initial set so that there is no chance of marking the finished piece, wrap it in saran to keep it moist for a week. After a day or two, unwrap the piece, spray with a mist of water and rewrap with saran or plastic sheet. After a week, if the pieces are small, as I assume jewelry would be, you can submerge the piece in water for another week. This will ensure curing with no shrinkage cracks.
I found a craft sand that is so fine it’s a powder. I’ll try that first. Thank you so much!
I've also heard others use marble dust, obtained from places that cut marble counter tops.
Hello sir, thank you so much for this video. My question is, what happens if we can’t find Portland cement, is there a substitute? All I find is Portland cement limestone. Your advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
You mean limestone portland cement. That's portland cement. Limestone is calcium carbonate. When it ground up and strongly heated (calcined), it releases carbon dioxide. The remaining material is mixed with other ingredients such as gypsum and forms a clinker that is then ground up and is then called portland cement. Since the production of cement produces carbon dioxide, the "climate change" fanatics have convinced the cement industry that it needs to reduce the amount of carbon dioxide, the industry is now replacing part of the actual cement with 10 % uncalcined, ground limestone. So, the portland cement is now 90% portland and 10% limestone and the name is changed from portland cement to limestone portland cement. It is claimed to be "as good" as the older product, but I say, "BS". I alter my mix now to consider the ground limestone as if it were sand. I add 10% more of the "limestone portland" and 10% LESS sand to my mixes to compensate for the insanity of those who actually believe that our climate changes are an existential threat to our planet. They are nuts, but we have to live with the results of political BS.