Hi Keith, I sure appreciate all of the time & effort that you put into your videos. I'm an amateur & don't know anyone in the business that I can learn from. This is absolutely awesome, just like being there. I spent 12 years surveying for the American Bureau of Shipping & wish that more of the shops I worked with were like your. You're squared away, a straight shooter & you're willing to share your decades of experience. Thanks again for your videos. Best Regards, Jon
Keith- The ladies ask me why my right arm is so strong; I tell them it is because my hydraulic press is manual. :-) I have never watched it being done (broaching)-Kind of knew but now, watch one, do one, teach one and another great vid. I really believe there is nothing you cannot learn, and it really helps to have a good mentor who explains things practically-most books go on and on about stuff you don't need to know. Not you! Straight and to the point to do the job-Thanks! -Christian
Saw CNC broaching like 1000 times, never knew how it was made "ye olde way". Interesting stuff. I also like your DIY shims: creative recycling - cheap & smart. Respect and greetings from Germany.
This is great! Thanks, I'm taking a class on manufacturing processes, and they really don't get around to showing us what really happens in machine shops. Your videos give great insight! Thanks!
Propellers have taper bores and the guide is tapered to match those bores, the grove that supports the broach in the guide runs inline with the taper, so the key-way depth stays the same depth...
What I really appreciated about this piece is that it made me see that a keyway guide can be devised to apply a lot of different ways - not just the "kit" way, as long as your arbor press, hydraulic press, or I suppose mallet or sledge can gain access. Out of the box. Nice.
Great video.. great idea for the strapping material, and it's come in very handy, Thank you.. I found that as I put more strapping "shims" on, the shims did a little traveling due to the down pressure.. my solution was to weld a perpendicular pin to a small plate, and punched a hole into every shim, so when you dropped it onto the pin, it stopped the downward motion of the shim in contact.
Wow,I subscribed to your channel a little while back. You are a master at machine work ! I set and watch in amazement at some of the things that you have taken the time to video . Keep up the good work Keith,I know you will . Thanks,Rich
Very nice video Keith. You did a nice job of explaining why you set up and finished as you did. I completely agree with you about strapping, it is made out of surprisingly good spring steel. (Engineer of 35 years practice)
Great videos sir. Though I'm a CNC Latheman by trade, these bring me back to my grandfather's garage shop getting covered in oily cold rolled chips. Keep up the good work!
Keith, Hiram up in Vinalhaven Maine. would just like to thank you for your knowledge of machining and all of the above. You do superb work, and are truely a craftsman. Keep it up.
@Jim911Bo Some times I do on Nibral, but most of the cutting was free from the remainder of the 7/16" keyway, if at all, i would use some lube on the shim side to ease the glide... No lube on cast iron, broaching, turning or milling!
i bet i did a thousand of these in my day and as far as the lip action goes it seams every machinist i ever worked with had that - i did almost all mine with a dake arbor press by hand i sure wish i had this set up great job-had a brotch shatter with me 1 time in 13 years man it was like a bullet lol
Thank you for all of the movie, I was in Hong Kong, work is cnc lathe and cnc milling,. Your movie made me learn a lot of ways to go down immediately useful
Nice video. I've also used the steel strapping as shims. Usually when I'm milling a flat on an OD. Stick the work on some parallel surface in the vise, add a couple shims, mill the flat, add a couple more shims and mill the same flat on the opposite side. Works consistently. I was a little worried the drift would pop out at you.
" lip action optional" hahaha, We all have quirks. I make some sort of face when drilling a hole or the like around here at home and my wife always get's a kick out of asking me why i make that face... lol,,we laugh and go on with our project. Thanks for sharing the work you do.
Ya, your right! I have run some nice broaching machines but for a one man shop with only an occasional need to broach, this makes more sense on the cash flow! LOL thanks for the comment ;{)-----
Cool Keith I was going to ask about the lube too on the bronze. Sometimes you can smell the sulfur when you machine cast iron especially parts right from the foundry. That's a great idea for the shims, that steel usually pretty hard. Also razor sharp when cut with snips....don't ask how I know.
The broach guide slot is milled inline with the taper so the key way depth remains the same depth for the length of the taper, by shimming the whole project the guide and push ram are aligned. ;{)-----
@oneyaker Thanks for the major Kudo's there, I built my jobbing capablities in stages... There will be more to come, as the work keeps rolling in, Keith
Also, never use a hardened piece of material to push your broach through. If it get's stuck and start's to bend, it will shoot across the shop like a bullet !! I had to learn that one the hard way.
Thanks for the comment! yes even when I bend a 90 on the top side they get pulled in sometimes. A light coat of oil helps sometimes too. I like your idea. ;{)-----
Ciao Keith,guardo sempre i tuoi video,imparando sempre piu' trucchi del mestiere.Mi piacerebbe tanto lavorare al tuo fianco,sei tanto bravo..............Un saluto da Giuliano
I was always taught to measure from the center of the key across to the other side of the bore with a caliper and cut for dia + 1/2 the width of the key.
That is excactly how i set up props for broaching, too. And it´s excactly how i set up props for boring in the manual lathe, too... looks like you´re just as clever as i am ;-) Props to you, from a professional prop-smith from Denmark...
That's because it's generally standard practice with conventional machinery -- they've been doing it that way for more than 100 years. Nothing new or clever/different.
Thanks guys, for the comments, the camera picks up the noise a little more than it actually is, but understand if garage is connected to house, even sometimes I drop heavy piece and wife runs out to see if I'm alive! LOL. I did not have press before I made this one. Let me tell you life is to short to just talk about it! almost everything in press is used stuff! ;{)---
@vondeliusc Christian, I'm busting a gut, glad it was a new topic for ya, thanks for the Kudo's... I figure if I, walk the talk, theres way more info than a lecture and hits on some things I may not of thought to pin point on... Keith
I have done keyways in propellers on the shaper with such jig mountings,before, It does take a lot of time, but some keyways are special and there is no standard broach for them. ;{)---
Hey Keith, that is one awesome process! Dude, I was intrigued! But, I bet that process becomes really old and tedious after the first time. Ha ha ha ah .
I've not seen this done before. Thanks! And a hint of funny irony, its Oct 17, 2013 and they are saying maybe an early snow... the music in the background seemed fitting. Lol. Thanks for the tips!
All or most of my broaches are over 20 years of age and still cut nice. In English or dollars; Broach job = $50 minimum so 50 to 100 broach jobs in 20 years = $2500 to $5000 minimum per broach life. Remember the better you take care of your tools the more return you get out of them! ;{)---
Is the keyway always aligned with the centre of the blade for strength in a prop. You can grind a recess in the end of the broach so your push rod can't slip.
Hey, thanks for the comment (rescue) Keith on the time consumption factor. The other guy suggesting that a shaper would be a faster option (lol considering that you have a big broach kit, and a number of premade broach guides) is just one of the long list of knowitalls on the internet I guess. And lol again - I can hardly make out what we're talking about when translating our languages to english with google translate.
In watching this broaching video I realized you need to go find yourself one more toy, a little Davis keyseater. Not one of those single tooth jobs, but a real Davis. I have had a good old one in my shop for a few years now and could not live without it! Lots easier, and faster!
I know this video is old but I think for larger diameter holes it would be possible to create a right angle end mill that could fit in the hole and carve out the broach.
I watched a bunch of videos on broaching and I think I know know the best way to cut internal or external key ways. I think a lathe carbide broaching tool attached to and incremental slide plate (motorized) which is then attached to a trip hammer clutch. Broaching made easy and faster than CNC thanks to faster oscillations due to the trip hammer clutch.
I have never seen or even thought of using a press as a cutting tool. Is this common practice in the shop? It's amazing to me to see how things are done. I always have dropped parts off and picked them up done not thinking of how they did it. Sometimes I get on a Turn Write binge and watch videos for hours. My wife says "Thanks alot Keith"
@ 1:53 the broach guide you made, seems look slightly smaller at one end copare to other end.. is it correct? if it does, look or i'm might thinking of the result ,you know what i mean, nice instruction though (with the gesture of your hand, really easy to understand) thanks a lot for the vid.
Yeah, that's what I've been searching for, wondering how o make a keyway inside, but how about making it in a 10mm hole? Any special tools required? Thanks.
Well, most of the time you judge the lathe your going to buy by the size of your projects and the cash in your pocket. Your room to use it is also a good factor and the type of electrical you can supply it. ;{)------
You said that the slot (keyway?) wasn't a straight one, but was at an angle. As it appeared that you just "willy-nilly" created SOME-SORT-OF angle, by placing a 3/8" piece beneath the thick ring of steel, I'm assuming that the degree of the angle wasn't critical. Is that correct?
I noticed you aren't using cutting fluid. Is that just because you're cutting bronze, or do you typically not use cutting fluid when broaching? Excellent videos, Keith, I couldn't subscribe fast enough.
Hello.How many part or holes that kind of broaching tool will survive? It need to be grinded from time to time? Im cirious because broach tools arent cheap...
i was thinking the same thing, i work for a company that does this and we cut our own shims with sheet metal from .002 - .020 then whatever other shims we need we go and get but i hate having to recut shims after every pull.
Keith, I'm sure you know what you are doing, but you mentioned cutting a tapered slot, hence the key stock under your backing plate. But it seems to me that if the broach follows the guide, then either the guide slot or the guide itself must be tapered; i.e. unless the broach moves at an angle to the axis of the shaft, the slot will not be tapered. Angling the workpiece will only change the angle at which the press imparts motion to the broach. Did I miss something?
I thought the same thing. I saw a guy launch a 1/2" peice bar stock at somewhere near the sound barrier out of a press once. Scary to think about taking it to the face.
Banding is very useful. I use it to hang items, or just to make a quick knife. I have also used banding to make springs. Also, other shit...like scrapers...
One mans practice is another mans fear... Fear is healthy, 37 years in the trade and i'm still using all my digits... I've only had one piece of shrapnel fly out of a press, in all those years, because I listened to someone else on which direction he thought his alum housing came apart. caught the piece in the belly, then I felt like, I wanted to punch him, but him looking as his junk, was pleasing, I'm sad! :( :)
Keith, I have an anvil with a too small hardy hole (its the square hole and is a fraction shy of 1 inch). Would it be possible to enlarge the hole using a broach? I imagine the broach is tool steel but the anvil has been harden. Would that be a conflict? Thanks for another great video.
Hi Keith,
I sure appreciate all of the time & effort that you put into your videos. I'm an amateur & don't know anyone in the business that I can learn from. This is absolutely awesome, just like being there.
I spent 12 years surveying for the American Bureau of Shipping & wish that more of the shops I worked with were like your. You're squared away, a straight shooter & you're willing to share your decades of experience.
Thanks again for your videos.
Best Regards,
Jon
Keith-
The ladies ask me why my right arm is so strong; I tell them it is because my hydraulic press is manual. :-)
I have never watched it being done (broaching)-Kind of knew but now, watch one, do one, teach one and another great vid.
I really believe there is nothing you cannot learn, and it really helps to have a good mentor who explains things practically-most books go on and on about stuff you don't need to know.
Not you! Straight and to the point to do the job-Thanks!
-Christian
I really appreciate you taking time to post your vids. There was no such info years ago until youtube.
Saw CNC broaching like 1000 times, never knew how it was made "ye olde way".
Interesting stuff.
I also like your DIY shims: creative recycling - cheap & smart.
Respect and greetings from Germany.
This is great! Thanks, I'm taking a class on manufacturing processes, and they really don't get around to showing us what really happens in machine shops. Your videos give great insight! Thanks!
Propellers have taper bores and the guide is tapered to match those bores, the grove that supports the broach in the guide runs inline with the taper, so the key-way depth stays the same depth...
What I really appreciated about this piece is that it made me see that a keyway guide can be devised to apply a lot of different ways - not just the "kit" way, as long as your arbor press, hydraulic press, or I suppose mallet or sledge can gain access. Out of the box. Nice.
Great video.. great idea for the strapping material, and it's come in very handy, Thank you.. I found that as I put more strapping "shims" on, the shims did a little traveling due to the down pressure.. my solution was to weld a perpendicular pin to a small plate, and punched a hole into every shim, so when you dropped it onto the pin, it stopped the downward motion of the shim in contact.
Wow,I subscribed to your channel a little while back. You are a master at machine work ! I set and watch in amazement at some of the things that you have taken the time to video . Keep up the good work Keith,I know you will . Thanks,Rich
Very nice video Keith. You did a nice job of explaining why you set up and finished as you did. I completely agree with you about strapping, it is made out of surprisingly good spring steel. (Engineer of 35 years practice)
Great videos sir. Though I'm a CNC Latheman by trade, these bring me back to my grandfather's garage shop getting covered in oily cold rolled chips. Keep up the good work!
Keith, Hiram up in Vinalhaven Maine. would just like to thank you for your knowledge of machining and all of the above. You do superb work, and are truely a craftsman. Keep it up.
@Jim911Bo Some times I do on Nibral, but most of the cutting was free from the remainder of the 7/16" keyway, if at all, i would use some lube on the shim side to ease the glide...
No lube on cast iron, broaching, turning or milling!
i bet i did a thousand of these in my day and as far as the lip action goes it seams every machinist i ever worked with had that - i did almost all mine with a dake arbor press by hand i sure wish i had this set up great job-had a brotch shatter with me 1 time in 13 years man it was like a bullet lol
I really liked the effect of the little bubbles floating in from the left hand side. It sort of lightened up the subject of broaching.
Thank you for all of the movie, I was in Hong Kong, work is cnc lathe and cnc milling,. Your movie made me learn a lot of ways to go down immediately useful
Nice video. I've also used the steel strapping as shims. Usually when I'm milling a flat on an OD. Stick the work on some parallel surface in the vise, add a couple shims, mill the flat, add a couple more shims and mill the same flat on the opposite side. Works consistently.
I was a little worried the drift would pop out at you.
Beautiful key slot. Modern technology can't replace this method .
Thanks Keith,
Always enjoy your videos. Even an old dog like me can learn something!
Rob
Yes the keyway is always aligned with one of the blades.
"Lip action optional." Bwhahahaha! You caught me off guard and I almost laughed my beer out my nose. Thanks for the laugh.
" lip action optional" hahaha, We all have quirks. I make some sort of face when drilling a hole or the like around here at home and my wife always get's a kick out of asking me why i make that face... lol,,we laugh and go on with our project.
Thanks for sharing the work you do.
Great video Keith, especially the close up shots. The lip action was totally necessary! 😀
thank you your youtube clips are great bits for information keep them coming, great way to learn about how to do things in my own home work shop.
Ya, your right! I have run some nice broaching machines but for a one man shop with only an occasional need to broach, this makes more sense on the cash flow! LOL thanks for the comment ;{)-----
Excellent video. The lip action shows concentration and focus and is therefore pretty much mandatory.
I learned something. Thanks! Keep it up Keith. Greetings from Germany.
Thanks for the comment! I hope to visit Hong Kong, maybe next year My best friend lives there. ;{)-----
Cool Keith I was going to ask about the lube too on the bronze. Sometimes you can smell the sulfur when you machine cast iron especially parts right from the foundry.
That's a great idea for the shims, that steel usually pretty hard. Also razor sharp when cut with snips....don't ask how I know.
The broach guide slot is milled inline with the taper so the key way depth remains the same depth for the length of the taper, by shimming the whole project the guide and push ram are aligned. ;{)-----
@oneyaker Thanks for the major Kudo's there, I built my jobbing capablities in stages...
There will be more to come, as the work keeps rolling in, Keith
Also, never use a hardened piece of material to push your broach through. If it get's stuck and start's to bend, it will shoot across the shop like a bullet !! I had to learn that one the hard way.
Wow, thanks for the quick reply. I watched the other videos and learned some new things--really appreciate it!
Aaaahhh! So that's what a broach does - often wondered how to use one. Cheers!
Thanks for the comment! yes even when I bend a 90 on the top side they get pulled in sometimes. A light coat of oil helps sometimes too. I like your idea.
;{)-----
Ciao Keith,guardo sempre i tuoi video,imparando sempre piu' trucchi del mestiere.Mi piacerebbe tanto lavorare al tuo fianco,sei tanto bravo..............Un saluto da Giuliano
I was always taught to measure from the center of the key across to the other side of the bore with a caliper and cut for dia + 1/2 the width of the key.
That is excactly how i set up props for broaching, too. And it´s excactly how i set up props for boring in the manual lathe, too... looks like you´re just as clever as i am ;-)
Props to you, from a professional prop-smith from Denmark...
That's because it's generally standard practice with conventional machinery -- they've been doing it that way for more than 100 years. Nothing new or clever/different.
Nicely done. The power press helps, Mine is manual.
We increased the bore size to the next shaft diameter, causing the need for the next size key, with new width and depth requirements. ;{)---
Thanks guys, for the comments, the camera picks up the noise a little more than it actually is, but understand if garage is connected to house, even sometimes I drop heavy piece and wife runs out to see if I'm alive! LOL. I did not have press before I made this one. Let me tell you life is to short to just talk about it! almost everything in press is used stuff! ;{)---
Thanks for the Comment and welcome aboard!
I wondered how they make those cuts... thanks for the video!!
Thanks for watching over there in Italy, best wishes to you and your family! ;{)-----
@vondeliusc Christian, I'm busting a gut, glad it was a new topic for ya, thanks for the Kudo's... I figure if I, walk the talk, theres way more info than a lecture and hits on some things I may not of thought to pin point on... Keith
I have done keyways in propellers on the shaper with such jig mountings,before, It does take a lot of time, but some keyways are special and there is no standard broach for them. ;{)---
I would very much like to see how these broaches are made.. There are incredible forces on thoese broaches..do they never snapp..
I to am learning better and faster ways on working on oil field engines and pumping units, Thanks from Ohio Keith....
Ive just broached 60 3/8 x 4" slots on a manual broaching press, when my arm works again Ive got to make a press like yours!
We miss you Keith.
Hope you are well in your new facility!
Thanks for sharing always wonder how they make a tapered keyway.
Hey Keith, that is one awesome process! Dude, I was intrigued! But, I bet that process becomes really old and tedious after the first time. Ha ha ha ah .
I've not seen this done before. Thanks! And a hint of funny irony, its Oct 17, 2013 and they are saying maybe an early snow... the music in the background seemed fitting. Lol. Thanks for the tips!
All or most of my broaches are over 20 years of age and still cut nice. In English or dollars; Broach job = $50 minimum so 50 to 100 broach jobs in 20 years = $2500 to $5000 minimum per broach life. Remember the better you take care of your tools the more return you get out of them! ;{)---
@billdlv The tuff size to find on the banding material is for the 3/8" and under broaches...
Is the keyway always aligned with the centre of the blade
for strength in a prop. You can grind a recess in the
end of the broach so your push rod can't slip.
Hey, thanks for the comment (rescue) Keith on the time consumption factor. The other guy suggesting that a shaper would be a faster option (lol considering that you have a big broach kit, and a number of premade broach guides) is just one of the long list of knowitalls on the internet I guess. And lol again - I can hardly make out what we're talking about when translating our languages to english with google translate.
Informative video, thank you for sharing
I was woundring how this grove get machined. thank you for the vedio. it is very simple yet effecient method.
Is it an electric motor controlled hydraulic press? Have you got the make and model so I can search for one?? Thanks in advance.
In watching this broaching video I realized you need to go find yourself one more toy, a little Davis keyseater. Not one of those single tooth jobs, but a real Davis. I have had a good old one in my shop for a few years now and could not live without it! Lots easier, and faster!
Hi keith I am just on board also. ;) What is the machine you use to press the broach down it seems like its electric powered??
Cool trick with the strap-shims. Reduce Recycle Reuse!
do you worry about the punch (pusher) popping out laterally when you press that cutter through? seems like it might want to....painful too..
On soft bronze I prefer not to have the mess, sometimes if I do it is more for the shim side to ease the drag. ;{)-----
Thanks for the comment! best wishes to you in France, right? my guess anyhow... ;{)-----
Dang, you made me jealous. I used to have to do tricks like that with an arbor press and a giant cheater bar. LOL
I know this video is old but I think for larger diameter holes it would be possible to create a right angle end mill that could fit in the hole and carve out the broach.
Mats Moreau there are milling attachments, but big diamater holes are almost always done in shops with specialized machines
Most impressive, brilliant!
I watched a bunch of videos on broaching and I think I know know the best way to cut internal or external key ways. I think a lathe carbide broaching tool attached to and incremental slide plate (motorized) which is then attached to a trip hammer clutch. Broaching made easy and faster than CNC thanks to faster oscillations due to the trip hammer clutch.
It is a straight push key way broach, found in MSC catalogs ;{)-----
Sure be glad to have you swing by!
Of course I learned a ton..Thanks, I am looking for my 1st shop lathe. How big of a lathe would be the first lathe?? 36" 40" ????
Hey Keith, can you provide any tips on broaching stainless steel?
What causes the vibration on the press table? It looks almost like an impact wrench motion.
Nice! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the great video. What kind of press is that?
I have never seen or even thought of using a press as a cutting tool. Is this common practice in the shop? It's amazing to me to see how things are done. I always have dropped parts off and picked them up done not thinking of how they did it.
Sometimes I get on a Turn Write binge and watch videos for hours. My wife says "Thanks alot Keith"
no lube or oil at all? dont you need it for broaching, or is it because the prop is made out of brass?
Did you make or buy your press? Can you do a video on your press? Great work,i really enjoy your vids. Iv learned alot.
@ 1:53 the broach guide you made, seems look slightly smaller at one end copare to other end.. is it correct? if it does, look or i'm might thinking of the result ,you know what i mean, nice instruction though (with the gesture of your hand, really easy to understand) thanks a lot for the vid.
The pressure surge due to the cut variations as the broach is forced through, contacting each tooth one at a time! ;{)---
Yeah, that's what I've been searching for, wondering how o make a keyway inside, but how about making it in a 10mm hole? Any special tools required? Thanks.
No cutting oil required ?. Because it's brass ?.
Well, most of the time you judge the lathe your going to buy by the size of your projects and the cash in your pocket. Your room to use it is also a good factor and the type of electrical you can supply it. ;{)------
I always say you got to hold your toung right to put some parts on, a must for sure LOL!!
You said that the slot (keyway?) wasn't a straight one, but was at an angle.
As it appeared that you just "willy-nilly" created SOME-SORT-OF angle, by placing a 3/8" piece beneath the thick ring of steel, I'm assuming that the degree of the angle wasn't critical. Is that correct?
I noticed you aren't using cutting fluid. Is that just because you're cutting bronze, or do you typically not use cutting fluid when broaching?
Excellent videos, Keith, I couldn't subscribe fast enough.
wow! that's some force!!! how many tons is that press ??
Hello.How many part or holes that kind of broaching tool will survive? It need to be grinded from time to time? Im cirious because broach tools arent cheap...
Why add more depth to an already made keyway? Did it strip out?
Just curious, a prop is called a "wheel"?
I like to use a couple of drops of oil/lube on the back side of the broach as sometimes the shim can get sucked in with the broach.
i was thinking the same thing, i work for a company that does this and we cut our own shims with sheet metal from .002 - .020 then whatever other shims we need we go and get but i hate having to recut shims after every pull.
Keith, I'm sure you know what you are doing, but you mentioned cutting a tapered slot, hence the key stock under your backing plate. But it seems to me that if the broach follows the guide, then either the guide slot or the guide itself must be tapered; i.e. unless the broach moves at an angle to the axis of the shaft, the slot will not be tapered. Angling the workpiece will only change the angle at which the press imparts motion to the broach. Did I miss something?
The guide slot is parallel to the bore taper.
I thought the same thing. I saw a guy launch a 1/2" peice bar stock at somewhere near the sound barrier out of a press once. Scary to think about taking it to the face.
Hmmm will I get the same effect if I vary my lip action I prefer the tongue in check method I seem to get a better result
Banding is very useful. I use it to hang items, or just to make a quick knife. I have also used banding to make springs. Also, other shit...like scrapers...
One mans practice is another mans fear...
Fear is healthy, 37 years in the trade and i'm still using all my digits...
I've only had one piece of shrapnel fly out of a press, in all those years, because I listened to someone else on which direction he thought his alum housing came apart. caught the piece in the belly, then I felt like, I wanted to punch him, but him looking as his junk, was pleasing, I'm sad! :( :)
Thanks you for the comment! ;{)-----
Keith, I have an anvil with a too small hardy hole (its the square hole and is a fraction shy of 1 inch). Would it be possible to enlarge the hole using a broach? I imagine the broach is tool steel but the anvil has been harden. Would that be a conflict? Thanks for another great video.
There are square ⬛️ hole broach's