Looks much better. I may do this. Protip: when drilling metal, to avoid the tip walking while it tries to bite, you can pre-punch a dent with a hammer and nail or similar to help guide the tip. You can also use a tiny drill bit to start and gradually increase the size, as a smaller bit will be easier to get started where you want it.
Now I've finally got a new bike with a dropper post I'm considering adding a dropper to my old Marin, on the plus side I've already got (two) holes in my frame where my bottle cage mounts fell out of my seat tube. I'll make sure I slant the hole I use though.
after trying it on a recent bike I wanted a dropper seatpost..thing is manual seatposts seems to be eol (my order was cancelled and refunded) external dropper seem bad quality from reviews and all the new good quality droppers are internal wiring so...I might do this thanks
Replace the quick release seat post clamp with a non quick release, so nobody can snatch your seat post. Also use some assembly compound on the seat post so that it does not easily turn, and thus having less force on the seat tube clamp. If over tightened it can affect the post from springing up smoothly. About to do this on my Santa Cruz Blur frame, so I've watched ...well, too many clips to be prepared... more mentally really.
You didn't need to drill out the bit on the downtube. It could have run like the cable it's now parallel to. Also, might not be a bad idea while it's still taped to spray some clear coat on the new hole to keep the paint surrounding the hole from flicking off.
I'm very much on the fence about doing this on my new Trek, only for the simple fact that it voids the lifetime frame warranty. But on the other hand the likelihood of needing warranty work is very slim. Maybe after some use I will make the decision. I 100% agree that internal routing is the way to go if youre gonna to a dropper.
put a sticker over the hole and they will never even suspect anything, used to work in the return dept. if anything happens to your frame which is like winning the lottery, not gonna happen!
@@AshfordMTB thanks for your response, I just ordered a 170mm - 499mm for my voodoo hoodoo 20" frame. I think I'll be fine and I plan to slam the dropper post like you did, thanks for the video :) you inspired me to go 1x11, I've got a m5100 setup 1x11 crankset etc!
If my frame got rivnut and make dropper (X brand) cannot adjust to the lowest but when actuator lil bit loosen dropper can get more lower. Actuator should very tight or lil bit loose is all right
Hi, and thanks for watching. The angle was to allow a smoother route for the dropper cable. If it was straight, the cable would need to bend at 90deg as it exits/enters the seat tube. This would cause a lot of friction against the inner cable, and could cause problems with usage.
dude, you really need to learn about metals before giving anyone any kind of advise. you lost that privilege with the very ignorant comment. no shade just think before making yourself look this way again. just sayin!
great try however it opens you up to be criticized for the lack of knowledge like when you actually drilled the hole and tried to push the cable in without the end on it. it needs to be elongated and bigger asking with a grommet man. if you're gonna do a video do it right man do others don't make the same mistakes. yeah it will work but it's not the proper way it should have been done. am i wrong? let me know. again no personal shade just generally.
Looks much better. I may do this.
Protip: when drilling metal, to avoid the tip walking while it tries to bite, you can pre-punch a dent with a hammer and nail or similar to help guide the tip. You can also use a tiny drill bit to start and gradually increase the size, as a smaller bit will be easier to get started where you want it.
LOL that drill for what you are doing is HILAROUS mate. if its not satire its even better lmfao
I ensured that hammer was off.
Did a similar job on my Crave expert, but with 3 holes to go through the down tube as well. Pretty happy with the result even if it took me half day
Tighten the barrel adjuster on the lever, that will tighten the cable and make it pull the dropper with more pressure, meaning it will go up faster
Nice utilisation of the old cable holders , i think thsts a good idea will give it a ho cheers
Awesome stuff mate well done will defo be doing this to mine 👍
Nice video mate see you are in Ashford I am only in Whitstable myself 😊
Now I've finally got a new bike with a dropper post I'm considering adding a dropper to my old Marin, on the plus side I've already got (two) holes in my frame where my bottle cage mounts fell out of my seat tube. I'll make sure I slant the hole I use though.
after trying it on a recent bike I wanted a dropper seatpost..thing is manual seatposts seems to be eol (my order was cancelled and refunded) external dropper seem bad quality from reviews and all the new good quality droppers are internal wiring so...I might do this thanks
Replace the quick release seat post clamp with a non quick release, so nobody can snatch your seat post. Also use some assembly compound on the seat post so that it does not easily turn, and thus having less force on the seat tube clamp. If over tightened it can affect the post from springing up smoothly. About to do this on my Santa Cruz Blur frame, so I've watched ...well, too many clips to be prepared... more mentally really.
Congratulations, you've ROOTED your frame!
How is the frame holding up one year after? How much have you used it after drilling? Thanks! :)
About time lol, nice vid bro 👍🏼
You didn't need to drill out the bit on the downtube. It could have run like the cable it's now parallel to. Also, might not be a bad idea while it's still taped to spray some clear coat on the new hole to keep the paint surrounding the hole from flicking off.
You can as long alloy or metal, along seat tube right near bottom, don't do it on carbon
Great job will drill my bike soon
Or avoiding oxidation and staining if it’s an alloy frame and not steel
Im looking into a dropper, thinking of wireless tho
Nice one
Thanks man!
Should've kept it elevated upside down to clean out swarf from. Inside the seat tube...... Otherwise great job 👍
Hi there ask MTB seat tube 27.2mm for extra water bottle in hardtrail?
I'm very much on the fence about doing this on my new Trek, only for the simple fact that it voids the lifetime frame warranty.
But on the other hand the likelihood of needing warranty work is very slim.
Maybe after some use I will make the decision.
I 100% agree that internal routing is the way to go if youre gonna to a dropper.
put a sticker over the hole and they will never even suspect anything, used to work in the return dept. if anything happens to your frame which is like winning the lottery, not gonna happen!
I've got the 20inch version of this bike, size frame is yours please? Also what length dropper did you put in yours please? Thanks 😊
Hi, this is a medium/18". The dropper was a 125mm.
@@AshfordMTB thanks for your response, I just ordered a 170mm - 499mm for my voodoo hoodoo 20" frame. I think I'll be fine and I plan to slam the dropper post like you did, thanks for the video :) you inspired me to go 1x11, I've got a m5100 setup 1x11 crankset etc!
@@AshfordMTB do you know the diameter of the dropper too? I ordered 30.9mm thanks
@@Tuchh the dropper diameter is 31.6mm!
9:00 That's what she said.
my local bike shop said that my bike's frame is too small for a dropper. Any suggestion for that?
The externally routed Brand X dropper is available as 27.2mm.
If my frame got rivnut and make dropper (X brand) cannot adjust to the lowest but when actuator lil bit loosen dropper can get more lower. Actuator should very tight or lil bit loose is all right
What size is that dropper? 225mm?
You didn't add the cable barrel mate :( but good vid
Nice spot! There wasn't one in the packaging, but I managed to source one and it is nestled nicely in position now.
How is the frame holding up with actual trail use?
Yeah it's great. Coping with step-sets too.
I drilled a hole and l screwed up, my lawyer will be contacting you... LMAO...😂✌️
Why did u angle on the drill? Does it actually fare better in terms of structural integrity?
Hi, and thanks for watching. The angle was to allow a smoother route for the dropper cable. If it was straight, the cable would need to bend at 90deg as it exits/enters the seat tube. This would cause a lot of friction against the inner cable, and could cause problems with usage.
replace that quick release seatpost collar with a non quick-release. you wont be needing those anyways.
That is next on the cards. It annoys me when I see a quick release on a dropper!
You need to touch up the area of the frame with paint to avoid future rust problems
Its alu, it wont rust
It will oxidise and go all scabby leaving white stain
dude, you really need to learn about metals before giving anyone any kind of advise. you lost that privilege with the very ignorant comment. no shade just think before making yourself look this way again. just sayin!
You still got the Vitus?
Still got it man, love it!
@@AshfordMTB happy days they are class. I got a Vitus Sentier Vr there last week, cracking spec... would have got the new sommet cr but zero stock.
@@frankiedoodle8984 ah nice one! Yeah, people are screaming out for them, and loads keep missing out.
That drill is entirely too small for your needs. 👎🏾
great try however it opens you up to be criticized for the lack of knowledge like when you actually drilled the hole and tried to push the cable in without the end on it. it needs to be elongated and bigger asking with a grommet man. if you're gonna do a video do it right man do others don't make the same mistakes. yeah it will work but it's not the proper way it should have been done. am i wrong? let me know. again no
personal shade just generally.