I must apologise as I could not have been more wrong about the missing bits. They are of course inside the stanchion! My bike has 2 right hand stanchions and the preload spacers have been cut to about 3cm to make them fit. Its a long story but it turns out that the springs are 550 mm long and they should be 450 mm long which is causing most of my problems. I have also bought the correct left hand damper rod so feel like I am beginning to make some progress. thanks for your prompt reply to my last comment. John
Really enjoyed every minute...was fascinated by the fork oil....all my range of forks u need to fill during assembly. ...never seen that idea before...good video camera. ...
Very interesting video. Where did that caliper come from? I bet it must be amazing compaired with the original! The pipes are different on each fork leg, one being for damping and the other bring for rebound. There are some parts shown on the real oem parts page that are missing form your bike. I have watched a couple of other videos and they do not have these parts also. I was wondering if you could explain this as I am a bit confused. I am in the process of sorting out my front forks on my R80 GS from 1992 and my bike does not have these parts either. Any help or explaination would be graratefully appretiated.
Hi tileproplus, The caliper came from Harrison Billet engineering: www.billet.co.uk/index2.html?home.html~mainFrame It was already on the bike when I bought it in 1995. It does work well, particularly since I replaced the original brake disc for a cast iron replacement from Motorworks. I am not sure which parts are not there that you refer to as missing. If you could give me some idea (eg part numbers from the oem parts page you refer to) I will look into it.
great video! I was looking for this quite a while ago. I replaced my tyres and had to figure it out by myself. I did find some drops of oil on one of the two bolts that fix the wheel axle, is that possible? Can it be from the fork oil? There is no leak outside. And then, how do you prevent the screws you grease with copper from unthight themselves?
Other than the oil seal area, fork oil could possibly leak from the drain plug, or from the fastener that secures the slider to the damper tube. I don't use copper grease on all threads, but where I do, provided fasteners are properly tightened, there should not be an issue with them coming loose.
Hi, many thanks for all your excellent BMW videos. A simple question: I have the 1990 version of your bike - what is the best or easiest way to remove the castellated nut at the top of each fork leg, please? I don’t have a special socket for this. Best regards, Ernie
Hi, My R100GS PD has a hexagonal cap at the top of the fork stanchion. I use a 30 mm ring spanner or socket to undo it. You may find that you will need to move the handlebar out of the way first. If you are changing the fork oil, there is a plug in the centre of the cap plug that you can remove to refill the fork without the necessity of removing the cap plug. I use a long 6mm allen key socket to do this. Best regards, Guy
Thanks Guy. The 1987-90 GS/PD doesn’t have the easy hex cap, it has .a castellated nut that I could use a hammer and screwdriver blade to loosen, but I don’t like to mistreat parts. And it doesn’t enable me to torque it afterwards. Will have to think again, i’ve searched everywhere. Intend to fit Wilbers fork springs and rear shock. Stay safe.
@ernier9033 Bit late now but for info of others there is a specific BMW ' C' spanner available from Motobins etc for around £15. May have been part of original toolkit on some bikes (possibly r75/6 as it is also a pin spanner for that bikes fork caps). Cheers Rob
I must apologise as I could not have been more wrong about the missing bits. They are of course inside the stanchion! My bike has 2 right hand stanchions and the preload spacers have been cut to about 3cm to make them fit. Its a long story but it turns out that the springs are 550 mm long and they should be 450 mm long which is causing most of my problems. I have also bought the correct left hand damper rod so feel like I am beginning to make some progress. thanks for your prompt reply to my last comment. John
Really enjoyed every minute...was fascinated by the fork oil....all my range of forks u need to fill during assembly. ...never seen that idea before...good video camera. ...
Always a pleasure to watch your videos ! Thanks
Very interesting video. Where did that caliper come from? I bet it must be amazing compaired with the original! The pipes are different on each fork leg, one being for damping and the other bring for rebound. There are some parts shown on the real oem parts page that are missing form your bike. I have watched a couple of other videos and they do not have these parts also. I was wondering if you could explain this as I am a bit confused. I am in the process of sorting out my front forks on my R80 GS from 1992 and my bike does not have these parts either. Any help or explaination would be graratefully appretiated.
Hi tileproplus, The caliper came from Harrison Billet engineering: www.billet.co.uk/index2.html?home.html~mainFrame It was already on the bike when I bought it in 1995. It does work well, particularly since I replaced the original brake disc for a cast iron replacement from Motorworks.
I am not sure which parts are not there that you refer to as missing. If you could give me some idea (eg part numbers from the oem parts page you refer to) I will look into it.
great video! I was looking for this quite a while ago. I replaced my tyres and had to figure it out by myself. I did find some drops of oil on one of the two bolts that fix the wheel axle, is that possible? Can it be from the fork oil? There is no leak outside. And then, how do you prevent the screws you grease with copper from unthight themselves?
Other than the oil seal area, fork oil could possibly leak from the drain plug, or from the fastener that secures the slider to the damper tube.
I don't use copper grease on all threads, but where I do, provided fasteners are properly tightened, there should not be an issue with them coming loose.
Would any grease do to use on the outside of the oil seal?
Thank you for the video, this will be handy soon :)
Yes okay to use grease.
Hi, many thanks for all your excellent BMW videos. A simple question: I have the 1990 version of your bike - what is the best or easiest way to remove the castellated nut at the top of each fork leg, please? I don’t have a special socket for this. Best regards, Ernie
Hi, My R100GS PD has a hexagonal cap at the top of the fork stanchion. I use a 30 mm ring spanner or socket to undo it. You may find that you will need to move the handlebar out of the way first.
If you are changing the fork oil, there is a plug in the centre of the cap plug that you can remove to refill the fork without the necessity of removing the cap plug. I use a long 6mm allen key socket to do this.
Best regards, Guy
Thanks Guy. The 1987-90 GS/PD doesn’t have the easy hex cap, it has .a castellated nut that I could use a hammer and screwdriver blade to loosen, but I don’t like to mistreat parts. And it doesn’t enable me to torque it afterwards. Will have to think again, i’ve searched everywhere. Intend to fit Wilbers fork springs and rear shock. Stay safe.
@ernier9033 Bit late now but for info of others there is a specific BMW ' C' spanner available from Motobins etc for around £15. May have been part of original toolkit on some bikes (possibly r75/6 as it is also a pin spanner for that bikes fork caps). Cheers Rob
@@robf1738 Never too late, thank you🕊️
thanks dude, which type of the würth sprey?
CU800, also available as a paste