Make Your Smart Home Even Smarter with Tuya / Smart Life Tips + Tricks ua-cam.com/video/BVRJYZW-wkk/v-deo.html If you don't have a neutral wire then there are other options Smart WiFi Light Switch HACK ua-cam.com/video/E93oiCDplTI/v-deo.html No Neutral Smart Light Switch ua-cam.com/video/duSFZDRzy6E/v-deo.html Zigbee Touch Smart Switch ua-cam.com/video/o_O5HdQo8u0/v-deo.html ✅ Don't Forget to Like👍 this Video, make a Comment✍and Subscribe ▶ it makes these videos possible 😊
HEY, i bought one of this wifi switches, and when i connect with the app work fine, but every single time i press the "manual button" it resets by itself, how can i fix it??
I fitted a switch a couple years ago that needed a neutral wire; carpet up in the room above, and two holes in the floor the get the job done. I've been reluctant to do the lounge lights because of furniture in the room above. This is so simple in comparison... Thanks for clear instructions!
⚠️ Hi! Great video. I just installed the smart switch in my bedroom, which has a twin switch connection, so 2 switches operate the same lights. I replaced the dumb switch with the simpler connection by adding the common to the Neutral whole and L1 & L2 to L and L1 in the smart. The issue is that the other dumb switch doesn’t operate the lights anymore. Any ideas why? Maybe because I connected the N to the common?...
Best explanation ever!!!!....on wiring these things up....bar none!! Thanks. So the capacitor charges when the switch is on and maintains a supply to the switch ready for activation through the app. Am I right? Never realised a capacitor would hold charge for so long.
All I'm going to say is thank you iv spent days going over the schematic and by the diagram it suggest putting the block on the wall. Well say no more it works!
Amazon is now selling an updated version of this WiFi Smart Light Switch. This new version comes with a Neutral Terminal on the Light Switch and also a Capacitor in the box. If you have a Neutral Wire at the Light Switch box then this goes into the Neutral Terminal and the Capacitor doesn't need to be installed at the Ceiling Rose. If you only have a Live and Switch Live Wire at the light switch box then you just disregard the Neutral Terminal and terminate the Live Wire to the "L" Terminal and the Switch Live Wire to the "L1" Terminal and you must install the Capacitor at the ceiling rose to stop the light from flickering/buzzing
Ive had these switches for about a month now and every 3-4 days or so, the switch will complete cut off and becomes unresponsive, the only way to get it working again is through my breaker switch... Is this a common problem and if so any ideas to fix it? Thanks
For those who get a 2 gang version watch out for the load drop per gang compared to this single one. I think it's from 300w to 100w. Yes I didn't check and blew the switch board when turning it on
The best tutorial in the web. I am just wondering why the hell manufacturer added external capacitor? It would be much easier to have it build in the switch itself and save those ridiculous rewiring of the lamp - stupid. Original instruction is useless, this tutorial helped a lot.
Nice and clear video explanation! I have a question: if I have 2 or more light points connected to the same switch, do I have to add a capacitors to each bulb? I’m a bit confused because light bulbs are connected in parallel and in my case I don’t know which one is the head of wires! Thanx man!
From time to time the switches go offline and I need to trip the DBs a few time until I get them to respond again. Anyone getting the same issue? Any ideas about how to get the switches online without touching the DB?
Thanks for the video explanation! Really helped me out with explaining about the capacitor! Just out of curiosity, what could happen if I connect the capacitor between the Live wire and the switch?
@@HumeidAlHabsi I use it without the capacitor, the switch works ok manually but I have many disconnections. Maybe the capacitor helps keeping the switch online? 🤔
Be careful when testing live wires with a one-pole phase tester - they can give a wrong result when the ground you are standing on isolates too well. This can very easily lead to wrong results and grave accidents (50 Hz AC gives you ventricular fibrillation very quickly; which will render you dead in case no one finds and resuscitates you successfully). Always use a two-pole tester (like a Benning Duspol or similar) which you confirmed to be working on a live wire before (!) to determine the system to be not live before touching, and use one of these new contactless phase testers ("beepers") to roughly check if there is AC present. Also, block the fuses before working on the system so no one puts them on accidentally.
Another great video mate. I've been looking at a number of different options for our extension, this is a nice solution. It would be interesting to see if a company will make a smart panel, whereby different lights in different zones can be controlled by one panel (as opposed to the traditional switch panels with about 8 different buttons on them)
Thanks for the comment much appreciated. This company does do 3 way switches and what you can do is use smart scenes to get it to do additional things and this is where you could setup zones for the lighting.
@@t166err Yes, you could even get it to turn a light on in another property, as long as you add via your Smart Life account. Or if someone has shared a device with you.
same here, so I wondering if it come from the quality of the capacitor or need to be attached to another gang (mine is 2 gang switch and I put the capacitor to L1 line as in the schema)
Before or else it might blow up😂, if its LED i don't think it would be necessary the main reason for the capacitor is if the lights flicker a lot then the capacitor should maintain the power up
I have the similar one, no neutral and cap connected, but the device shuts down when light turns on - seems to short itself and disconnects. Mine clicks as opposed to yours, so the relay is inside. Not sure if mine can work without neutral
Looked at the link and there £18.99 each seems cheaper till you think about putting them all around the house and it ends up being £211 thinking about getting some for the bedrooms tho just need to see if I’ve got a neutral wire on my switches or not 👍👍👍
If I get a capacitor seperatley can I use this same process with any smart switch which requires a neutral? I'm struggling to find homekit enabled smart switches that don't need a neutral and don't require an additional hub. Thanks!
Nice video! Quick question though, if I have two switches in the room for the same light, is there a way to install one of these and one normal one? will the state of the smart one be updated when i toggle the regular switch? Also, under the same scenario, can i have two smart switches for the same light? Although I believe there is no point in it.
What does the capacitor do ? We have the light never going fully out. Is the switch faulty or does it need a capacitor - none came with the switch. Thanks
Had mine fitted for about a year to 6 outside LED lights thst are on a dusk till dawn sensor. The lights come one but i can't use the switch or connect the Wi-Fi. Would the dusk till dawn sensor make any difference.
Hey bud.. this really helped me.. thank you. Just have one question.. I have a four gang.. so 4 different switches for 4 different lights on the same panel.. they sent only a single capacitor.. and the diagram shows only one.. little confused with that.. what about the other three lights? Does it have to go on the L1 or it can go on any of the lights coming from the switch.. thanks for any help.
is there a way to close it after 1 sec, not after 1 min (aka inching)? unfortunately our lights are just push to turn on/off (not up down), and I am currently looking for a way to manage that.
Hi, thanks for this video, makes so much more sense than the average instructions 😂 I've installed and all seems to be working well apart from the fact that the power light on the switch is lit blue when my light is on and red when it's off but your's seems to do the opposite. Any ideas why this might be? Have I done something wrong and should I be concerned? Thanks again
Firstly, whoever installed the light switch should have sleeved the Blue wire with Brown sleeving as per the Regs. Secondly, do not use this type of voltage tester, dangerous and should be taken off the market in my opinion.
Hi mate how you doin I have got 4 light bulbs they are connected to one old switch I would like to put new smart switch do. I need 4 capacitors for all the bulbs to connect to one switch
Thank you again for a great video! I love how you say about testing the live wire my dad showed me this 30 years ago and I was always too scared to test it that way but do now :-) I also use to like getting the sparks flashing at me lol be safe and make sure like you say before you mess with electric as it's not at all a good experience getting a shock like I have had due to someone coming in and wanting there electric on for a cup of tea and not turning it off again after I thought they had! So I got a shock but I was very lucky to pull myself off it! Be safe! And thank you again for the reminder hints! Was harder for me too as I had two red wires to find the live wire so the wiring here is old! :-)
Fantastic detailed review. Exactly what I was looking for. I am planning to use it on a dimmable LED. Can that be done using this switch on Google Home?
I have now a double button one and it works great. It has also rf 433 and that makes it even better. I don't know if you have it also on that one. It is easy to setup and I have both on one rf button now. I must switch that to an other button, but I wanted to test it. My lights witch is ad one door, but there is no switch ad the other door in the room and with the rf I can now easily solf that.
Hi Geek Street, how many of these have you got installed? Any flickering issues? Also have you experienced any devices dissapearing all of a sudden and having to be recommissioned? Many thanks.
I have added this switch to my living room with two lights. The light keeps flickering do I need two capacitors. Living room has x2 light fixtures with G9 LED bulb.
Hi !! Did you resolve your problem? This is happening with me the lights keep flickering when I'm using an LED bulb. That doesn't happen when I'm using fluorescent lamps. Maybe should use another capacitor spec?
Make Your Smart Home Even Smarter with Tuya / Smart Life Tips + Tricks
ua-cam.com/video/BVRJYZW-wkk/v-deo.html
If you don't have a neutral wire then there are other options
Smart WiFi Light Switch HACK
ua-cam.com/video/E93oiCDplTI/v-deo.html
No Neutral Smart Light Switch
ua-cam.com/video/duSFZDRzy6E/v-deo.html
Zigbee Touch Smart Switch
ua-cam.com/video/o_O5HdQo8u0/v-deo.html
✅ Don't Forget to Like👍 this Video, make a Comment✍and Subscribe ▶ it makes these videos possible 😊
HEY, i bought one of this wifi switches, and when i connect with the app work fine, but every single time i press the "manual button" it resets by itself, how can i fix it??
Before seeing this, I was putting the capcitor in the light switch 😂 I was like, it won't close, lol😂😂😂
😅
but, can you you do it that way? does it serve the same result>
Super helpful, especially the part with the capacitor fitting.
I fitted a switch a couple years ago that needed a neutral wire; carpet up in the room above, and two holes in the floor the get the job done. I've been reluctant to do the lounge lights because of furniture in the room above. This is so simple in comparison... Thanks for clear instructions!
⚠️ Hi! Great video. I just installed the smart switch in my bedroom, which has a twin switch connection, so 2 switches operate the same lights. I replaced the dumb switch with the simpler connection by adding the common to the Neutral whole and L1 & L2 to L and L1 in the smart.
The issue is that the other dumb switch doesn’t operate the lights anymore.
Any ideas why?
Maybe because I connected the N to the common?...
This made it all a lot simpler for me.
Many thanks !
✅💪🏼🎩
💪
Best and excellent explanation, never I seen like this explanation before. One billion like and subscribe👍👍👍👍👌🌹
Best video i ever watched on youtube ! Rly nice work man,regards.
Thanks for the comment much appreciated!
Best explanation ever!!!!....on wiring these things up....bar none!! Thanks. So the capacitor charges when the switch is on and maintains a supply to the switch ready for activation through the app. Am I right? Never realised a capacitor would hold charge for so long.
Dear sir ,a most exellent video ,,by far the most clearest ,explanation,and demo.video so far huge thanks
You are my go to gadget channel good work Geek street 👍
I was looking for that. Thank you.
Why can you just install the capacistor right behind the switch it self?
All I'm going to say is thank you iv spent days going over the schematic and by the diagram it suggest putting the block on the wall. Well say no more it works!
Been thinking about putting a couple of these switches in the living room, very helpful video. Thank you very much
A word of caution. The backbox needs to be of a depth of at least 25mm (and even then it is very tight).
Amazon is now selling an updated version of this WiFi Smart Light Switch. This new version comes with a Neutral Terminal on the Light Switch and also a Capacitor in the box. If you have a Neutral Wire at the Light Switch box then this goes into the Neutral Terminal and the Capacitor doesn't need to be installed at the Ceiling Rose.
If you only have a Live and Switch Live Wire at the light switch box then you just disregard the Neutral Terminal and terminate the Live Wire to the "L" Terminal and the Switch Live Wire to the "L1" Terminal and you must install the Capacitor at the ceiling rose to stop the light from flickering/buzzing
Thanks for the info
Ive had these switches for about a month now and every 3-4 days or so, the switch will complete cut off and becomes unresponsive, the only way to get it working again is through my breaker switch... Is this a common problem and if so any ideas to fix it? Thanks
Where do you put the capacitor if you have downlights?
At the first downlight.
@@jessemahabir7760 mine have same problem, did you solve it? did you install capacitor btw?
Thank you for your technical support , it's very helpful👍👍👍
You're welcome!
Exellent demo😊
Thanks
For those who get a 2 gang version watch out for the load drop per gang compared to this single one. I think it's from 300w to 100w.
Yes I didn't check and blew the switch board when turning it on
what did you run with it
@@muhtasimfuad1945 they were normal 40w bulbs, now switched to leds
The best tutorial in the web. I am just wondering why the hell manufacturer added external capacitor? It would be much easier to have it build in the switch itself and save those ridiculous rewiring of the lamp - stupid. Original instruction is useless, this tutorial helped a lot.
Dude, I don't usually comment, but let's just say I had to like and comment this video!
Thanks 😊
Nice and clear video explanation! I have a question: if I have 2 or more light points connected to the same switch, do I have to add a capacitors to each bulb? I’m a bit confused because light bulbs are connected in parallel and in my case I don’t know which one is the head of wires! Thanx man!
Clear explanation. Thank you for making it easy and simple.
Glad it was helpful!
From time to time the switches go offline and I need to trip the DBs a few time until I get them to respond again. Anyone getting the same issue? Any ideas about how to get the switches online without touching the DB?
Can I still use the Wi-Fi without the capacitor
Thanks for the video explanation! Really helped me out with explaining about the capacitor! Just out of curiosity, what could happen if I connect the capacitor between the Live wire and the switch?
Did you ever try this? I think that is what I would need to do. I have switched outlets so I'm not sure how to put the capacitor between the light.
Fantastic video, great clear explanation on how to fit the capacitor. Thanks
Thanks!
What if capacitor was skipped will it just not work or it will ruin the switch?
I'd also like an answer to this question.
@@HumeidAlHabsi did you manage to have this answered?
@@HumeidAlHabsi I use it without the capacitor, the switch works ok manually but I have many disconnections. Maybe the capacitor helps keeping the switch online? 🤔
I want to give you a hug! thanks a lot!
hello nice video.. can i use it for DC module ?
Be careful when testing live wires with a one-pole phase tester - they can give a wrong result when the ground you are standing on isolates too well. This can very easily lead to wrong results and grave accidents (50 Hz AC gives you ventricular fibrillation very quickly; which will render you dead in case no one finds and resuscitates you successfully).
Always use a two-pole tester (like a Benning Duspol or similar) which you confirmed to be working on a live wire before (!) to determine the system to be not live before touching, and use one of these new contactless phase testers ("beepers") to roughly check if there is AC present. Also, block the fuses before working on the system so no one puts them on accidentally.
Thanks for the info
Hi , capacitor installation is a must ?
Thanks for best useful information
Do I need extra deep box for these or does it fit standard boxes for plaster board
what was the capacitor for?
This is great. Is there a dimmer version too?
No
Good concept. Potentially may have an impact on insulation resistance numbers when a test on the circuit is done in the future like an EICR.
Something like this would have to be disconnected surely before doing an IR test
@@lukedodds8265 if you knew it was there yeah you would. LN to earth for this reason
what happens if i don't connect the capacitor to the lamp?
Thanks so much. How about if each switch is connected to 12 led lights?
What is he spes of he capacitor please
Thank you very much for your information is very clear, it helped me a lot
You're welcome!
Thanks got two of these now. Noticed that one seems to emit a high pitched whine from the capacitor
Could be faulty, contact the seller and ask their opinion.
Same here... noise coming from the line with the cap installed and can't mute it. Somebody else experienced this?
im having this problem, was you able to find a solution?
Must we fix the capasitor. What will happen if we do not fix it
Another great video mate. I've been looking at a number of different options for our extension, this is a nice solution.
It would be interesting to see if a company will make a smart panel, whereby different lights in different zones can be controlled by one panel (as opposed to the traditional switch panels with about 8 different buttons on them)
Thanks for the comment much appreciated. This company does do 3 way switches and what you can do is use smart scenes to get it to do additional things and this is where you could setup zones for the lighting.
You could set a scene up where when this switch is active then a smart bulb elsewhere is enabled ?
@@t166err Yes, you could even get it to turn a light on in another property, as long as you add via your Smart Life account. Or if someone has shared a device with you.
Hi i just ordered this device and installed it, but when i turn on the power, the capacitor makes a buzzer sound. How can i eradicate this problem?
I also have this problem :( did you ever find a solution?
Likewise. I wonder what the value of the capacitor it to maybe find an alternative
same here, so I wondering if it come from the quality of the capacitor or need to be attached to another gang (mine is 2 gang switch and I put the capacitor to L1 line as in the schema)
I reckon looking for a capacitor that meets your home power supply
Don’t fit the capacitor
Your BLUE cable should have Brown sleeving placed on it , this will show that this cable becomes LIVE when switched on.
Hi there the capacitor install before the LED driver or after?
Before or else it might blow up😂, if its LED i don't think it would be necessary the main reason for the capacitor is if the lights flicker a lot then the capacitor should maintain the power up
In the Netherlands, Blue is Neutral and black is the switching wire. Something to consider.
I have the similar one, no neutral and cap connected, but the device shuts down when light turns on - seems to short itself and disconnects. Mine clicks as opposed to yours, so the relay is inside. Not sure if mine can work without neutral
Looked at the link and there £18.99 each seems cheaper till you think about putting them all around the house and it ends up being £211 thinking about getting some for the bedrooms tho just need to see if I’ve got a neutral wire on my switches or not 👍👍👍
Does the capacitor have a direction or is it indifferent? From the video it is not clear
Anyway is fine
@@GeekStreet thx
can this be done with downlights ?
Hi. Is this smart switch work with home kit iphone?
Love the video. Could anyone swing any advice as I have a 2 gang smart switch and live in an old house so struggled with the wiring. thx
Ever get this sorted
Do u need to install the capacitor? What is the purpose? Not an electrician, just curious
If I get a capacitor seperatley can I use this same process with any smart switch which requires a neutral? I'm struggling to find homekit enabled smart switches that don't need a neutral and don't require an additional hub. Thanks!
I think the main purpose for the capacitor is if the light flickers a lot
CFL and incandescent bulbs work fine with this capacitor system but standard LED bulbs develop an annoying flicker.
Hi sir can I ask what happens if we don’t install the Capacitor?
Up
Hi ya, does the schedule function works if your wifi router is switched off?
Hi this is a very good video thanks
Can I use this for my air conditions ?
can i not use the capacitor and not use the neutral or no, sorry i don't know much about electronics and wiring
Great Video.
Same in the ceiling rose, the Blue wire connected with the Brown core of the flex should be sleeved Brown.
Nice video!
Quick question though, if I have two switches in the room for the same light, is there a way to install one of these and one normal one? will the state of the smart one be updated when i toggle the regular switch?
Also, under the same scenario, can i have two smart switches for the same light? Although I believe there is no point in it.
What does the capacitor do ? We have the light never going fully out. Is the switch faulty or does it need a capacitor - none came with the switch. Thanks
Thanks
You're Welcome!
Can this control a socket from a wall switch to I need to open up socket and put wire in like light
Yes as long as the socket is smart.
@@GeekStreet so I need smart light switch and smart socket to control outside light plugged into a outside socket
Perfect, thank you!
You're welcome!
I want to add a smart switch to my outside flood light, do i need a capacitor? Thanks
I have one switch that turns on two ceiling lights, do I need a capacitor for each one?
No only one
you only need one since they are connected parallel, the capacitor can still operates for other load as well
@@Adam-be3my that’s great thanks for the help
Can a connected ladder ribbon be added?
which is better wifi based switches or ZigBee ??
Great video, as always. I was wondering if wiring done for light switch (10A) can be used for fixing up a power socket?
Any ideas?
Very helpful 👍
Can I put the capcitor just behind the light switch inside the box or I have to put it close to the source; fan or light bulbs?
Right at the bulb
Does your Capacitor also makes a noticable noice if the light is turned ok?
I put two 3.3uf capacitors in series, so the voltage doubled and the problem disappeared, it doesn't make any more noise.
Thank you so much
if i have a led light above do i need the capacitator still ?
Had mine fitted for about a year to 6 outside LED lights thst are on a dusk till dawn sensor. The lights come one but i can't use the switch or connect the Wi-Fi. Would the dusk till dawn sensor make any difference.
Hey bud.. this really helped me.. thank you. Just have one question.. I have a four gang.. so 4 different switches for 4 different lights on the same panel.. they sent only a single capacitor.. and the diagram shows only one.. little confused with that.. what about the other three lights? Does it have to go on the L1 or it can go on any of the lights coming from the switch.. thanks for any help.
It just has to go on one light.
It just needs the one capacitor. It's basically what keeps the switch powered when the lights are off.
is there a way to close it after 1 sec, not after 1 min (aka inching)? unfortunately our lights are just push to turn on/off (not up down), and I am currently looking for a way to manage that.
There is a plastic sticking on the white foam on the inside. Do I have to take it out?
I followed all instruction but cannot get any blinking??
Hi, thanks for this video, makes so much more sense than the average instructions 😂 I've installed and all seems to be working well apart from the fact that the power light on the switch is lit blue when my light is on and red when it's off but your's seems to do the opposite. Any ideas why this might be? Have I done something wrong and should I be concerned? Thanks again
I wonder if they have have changed the design!?
Firstly, whoever installed the light switch should have sleeved the Blue wire with Brown sleeving as per the Regs.
Secondly, do not use this type of voltage tester, dangerous and should be taken off the market in my opinion.
So in my living room have 6 led light So how it will work? Meaing for small yallow where i will install !
Really helpful. Thanks!
Btw just wondering is it possible to use google assistant in Android without the google nest speaker?
Yes you cam do that.
Tuya Smart g10 how to work with senior when I walk in the house to come on can it be done thanks
Hi mate how you doin I have got 4 light bulbs they are connected to one old switch I would like to put new smart switch do. I need 4 capacitors for all the bulbs to connect to one switch
Thank you again for a great video! I love how you say about testing the live wire my dad showed me this 30 years ago and I was always too scared to test it that way but do now :-) I also use to like getting the sparks flashing at me lol be safe and make sure like you say before you mess with electric as it's not at all a good experience getting a shock like I have had due to someone coming in and wanting there electric on for a cup of tea and not turning it off again after I thought they had! So I got a shock but I was very lucky to pull myself off it! Be safe! And thank you again for the reminder hints! Was harder for me too as I had two red wires to find the live wire so the wiring here is old! :-)
Thanks for the comment very much appreciated!
Fantastic detailed review. Exactly what I was looking for. I am planning to use it on a dimmable LED. Can that be done using this switch on Google Home?
Thanks, you can't dim from the switch but you could use a smart bulb.
I have now a double button one and it works great.
It has also rf 433 and that makes it even better. I don't know if you have it also on that one.
It is easy to setup and I have both on one rf button now. I must switch that to an other button, but I wanted to test it.
My lights witch is ad one door, but there is no switch ad the other door in the room and with the rf I can now easily solf that.
So your one must be WiFi and zigbee compatible.
@@GeekStreet no mine is just wifi, but has also rf433 support.
What if the internet is down can you control it using smart phone
Can you send a link with what type of capacitor I need.
Thanks
What about earth wire? I didn't see that earth wire setup in switch.
so... tha capacitor is just a jumper?
Hi Geek Street, how many of these have you got installed? Any flickering issues? Also have you experienced any devices dissapearing all of a sudden and having to be recommissioned? Many thanks.
I have the same problem with u. No idea why flickering.
@saimyooo i have same problem, was you able to resolve it?
I have added this switch to my living room with two lights. The light keeps flickering do I need two capacitors. Living room has x2 light fixtures with G9 LED bulb.
Hi !! Did you resolve your problem? This is happening with me the lights keep flickering when I'm using an LED bulb. That doesn't happen when I'm using fluorescent lamps.
Maybe should use another capacitor spec?
Does the capacitor buzz at all?
The two gang version of this can the lights wire up to it be turned of individually using Alexa?
Yes
How do you reset 2 way gang switch ? I kept pressing the switch for 10sec+ .. but no blinking