Chris - Thank you for this excellent video. By following this the steps that you outline I have just finished upgrading my Anycubic Kossel Plus to 32 bit SKR1.3 with TMC2208's. Just doing some simple test prints, but at this point I am amazed at how quiet the printer is with the 2208's. Need to finish tuning, and really want to see the effect on the print quality, and speed. I look forward to more content on the SKR v1.3! Thanks again!
Quick PS. Just printed a couple of Benchies one at .2 and the other at .1 layer height. Both are perfect! Really recommend this upgrade. A few things to note though: 1) The polarity of the power input screw block is opposite from the other screw terminals for the heaters. Red on the LEFT for the power. And the screening is small and hard to see especially if there are a bunch of other wires already connected and getting in the way. I learned this the hard way. But the fuse did blow and protect the board, so was just out a buck for a new fuse. 2) JST connectors are a big pain to crimp. If I end up doing this again, I think that I might get some JST cables, and the solder them to the limit switches rather than try to crimp on new connectors.
Just moved to 32 bit, SKR1.3/2208 and tft35. Watched a ton of UA-cam vids but yours helped me the most, thanks for that. Straight into it without a huge intro, love the drum solo, your videos move at a decent pace.
I have the SKR v1.3 board and TMC2208s on the way and found this video. Thank you for being so thorough and making this excellent walk through. My only suggestion is maybe place timestamps to different sections of the video in the description.
@@ChrisRiley When I hit the check mark to build it says it failed and every board that says skip for you says fail for me. But the LPC1768 and LPC1769 say success. Any suggestions?
Superb video as always Chris, thank you. Especially since I am seriously considering the SKR 1.3 and 2208's for my Borg. Looking forward to more videos on this combo.
Another excellent video and the timing could not have been better. I received my SKR board last week and it will be going in to the CoreXY I'm building.
@@ChrisRiley I'd also been procrastinating the switch to platformio for arduino/esp projects, your video showed how easy it is to get up and going on it so thanks for that too (though I prefer vscode).
@@ChrisRiley Oh my... I'm an idiot. Got my board today however I thought I had ordered the 1.3 but in fact it is a 1.1 Mini. Cute little board. It will be used on the Ender 3 after I figure out how to set it up.
Thanks, Chris. Finally proper and specific movie about skr 1.3 on YT. Now I'm waiting about 2130 SPI MODE config. TMC2208 and TMC2130 will have a lot of views specific on ender3.
This is fenomenal! Thank you very much for this review. I have been thinking of getting this SKR board for a while now.. but just as you have pointed out.. can not really reach those speeds on my cartesian printer reliably for a good print quality. Thumbs up Chris! Really my favourite 3D printing hardware channel.
Hell yeah, this board rocks ! I've got it working few weeks ago and boy oh boy, its sweet as honey. I know it doesn't have all the features like a duet, but with that price its already a steal.
Thanks Chris, nice video! I bought skr 1.3, tft 35, 2208 uart v3 and bltouch v3. Waiting for upcoming videos to learn from you and how to set up this board for full enjoy
That's a good question. Ha! There was a bug in Marlin 2.0 with the extruder, maybe I hit that. I will check it out. I also might have forgot to disable allow cold extrusion.
Can you help with ATOM? I clicked "SOMETHING" to try to get the side panel to appear. When I did, my top bar (File, edit, view, help) bar disappeared! Ctrl shift P doesn't show any viable commands to get things back to normal...
Great Video Chris, I bought one of these boards for my next printer project ( Up scaled HyperCube ). I really enjoyed your run thru of the basic config on your "Log" printer.
I don't know if this has been posted before but you can configure marlin to use a second stepper driver to drive the additional Z motor. I did this with my Anet A8 and it was relatively easy the second I found the option. Even though Z doesn't move that much, I like having peace of mind that I don't put unnecessary load on one driver for two motors since I have an extra driver to do the job. I got myself some 2208's this week. Time to dig up my printer again and put them in.
Very nice informative video Chris! I did not know your channel from before but will follow along as I am all about technical 3d printing nerdly stuff as I design 3d printers
@@ChrisRiley If you also could check speed printing from octoprint that would be nice. This is a buffer issue in the firmware and not processor as I understand so we might see studder also here?
Good video series. I started out with mainframes and I don't see how you keep all of these settings in mind and are able to riff them out like that. I'm envious. Keep up the good work.
Love this video. One swapping to the JST connectors I see the board has 3 pin for end stops and 2 pin for fans and thermistors. Do 2 pin JSTs fit in a 3 pin?
You can easliy configure Marlin to use the E1 Stepper as Z1 if you have a standard single-extruder setup. It keeps the required current on the stepper down, that is something you usually should care about on the "small" tmcs like 2130 or 2208.
Bigtreetech SKR mini E3 seems to be out 2 months ago. It has 2209 drivers and all integrated...but as 2209:s seem to have ran out almost globally they ship at end of october this year...
Marlin 2.0.x seems to have support also for that. Just ordered it from their ae store as it looked like a good upgrade for CR-10 mini controller board.
i got my hands on one 2 weeks ago, just haven't had the guts to install it yet as i hastily just bought it without researching into specs(d'oh!) and it has max power rating of 180W/12V and 360W/24V. I have a CR-10 mini with 220W heated bed and 40W stock hotend running on 12V. This adds up for 260W power on 12V and the board has 20A fuse, that already is too much for that. I have to dive into the mosfet specs that board has, i think those will go first if i change for a bigger fuse. I have a reddit post here about all this : www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/czg06t/cr10_mini_with_skr_mini_e3/
Great video, very helpful but after upgrading marlin with Your help my control button works the other way around (turning it clockwise leads to decrease value) I wonder if there is a way to reverse it
Percussor S. I’m assuming your controller utilizes a rotary encoder? Configuration.h: Line 1620, change; //#define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION To #define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION Compile and flash firmware.bin to your skr v1.3
Nice. This video will help alot. I have a Delta that really suffers with 8bit Marlin. I was waiting for a replacement 32bit board, and the know how to upgrade. I upgraded to tmc2130's but with spi, didn't know uart mode less wiring... Thank you again. Another upgrade but now I have direction. Already a patreon but I think I'll make a donation too.
23:20 - Don't forget `M502`, `M500` after flashing the new firmware to make sure your new configured settings get activated and saved to the EEPROM. (The board reset button likely does not clear the EEPROM, and Marlin saves EEPROM data to SD or MCU flash on some boards.)
I just heard that the SKR V1.3 pro is coming out in a few days. The main differences are - 15ABlade Fuse added and 30A Fuse changed. - Built-in 6-channel driver with Dual-Z function Supports 7 ports. - Changed to a stronger screw terminal. - USB B port addition. - PWM FAN 4 ports. - Added I2C. It also might have the STM32F4 as the MCU. The FPU for Floating operation is also a separate chip, and the maximum operating clock is 180MHz.
Hi Chris, great video. I got one of these running with some help from your rearm video. (So, thanks twice.) It was pretty much a drop in replacement for an MKS 1.4 and is working well so far in an old FT5 r1. It's so much quieter that it seems weird. Margin notes... I had the same 2208 v1.2 driver you used and it was only necessary to connect the J2 pad (the one closest to uart pin) with the center pad (chip) to enable uart. As I understood it, the other pin/pad was unused in the current config so it doesn't hurt anything to connect all three as you did though. The drivers get a little warm, and the vref is different than allegro, so mind the current. People say stealthchop robs too much torque for extruders so I didn't try quiet mode for that, but the 2208 is working fine for 'E' in spread cycle with a gear reduction extruder. Might want to sign your channel up as a brave browser content creator so people can toss bat tokens your way. Take care...
Thanks for the comment, glad to know it helped you twice! Thanks for the extra info on the 2208's. I have never heard of brave browser, I will have to look into that.
My drivers work fine when I am using them in standby mode but whenever I try to use UART my LCD says TMC Connection Error. I am using the same board as you except I am using v2 TMC 2208, I even bought some TMC 2130 and they do the same thing fine in standby, but then the same message in SPI. I have the pins configured correctly on my board and changed my firmware, what is causing this?
@@treyroudebush1029 Make sure you enable "#define TMC_DEBUG" in Marlin so you can send the 'M122' command, which may help you troubleshoot the issue. It may just be one TMC2208 that isn't talking. M122 should show you which drivers it 'sees' and could point the finger at a bad driver. Hope you figure it out and get it working! :)
Hi Chris, thanks for making this video, I enjoyed especially the circle speed tests. I have some suggestions for your next video testing out the SKR1.3. I've been an early adopter of the SKR1.3 BIQU sent me a free SKR 1.3 for contributing the "popular" product suggestion of TMC2208 UART w/o flying wires, so I've been using it for a while. Suggestions: 1. Using Vase mode will result in a constant circular speed, without the layer change jerk/bump. This will make it easier to visually separate stutters from layer change jerks. 2. Test to see if printing via USB via Octoprint behaves differently. Ie, see if the Octoprint USB bandwidth bottleneck is still a factor with the SKR1.3. The interesting thing about the SKR1.3 (and setting serial port to -1 in marlin configuration.h is a clue to this) is that Baud Rate doesn't matter whether its 9.6k or 500K - there is no USB to serial conversion happening - There is a direct USB connection between the pi (or computer) into the SKR. Andy Shaw, who personally wrote most of the SKR/LPC1768 USB stack said, verbatim, "There is no USB to serial conversion on the SKR boards. The USB stack (which runs on the LPC1768) handles the "USB serial" connection directly." Source: facebook.com/groups/505736576548648/permalink/668928390229465/?comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22O%22%7D Therefore in theory, there is oodles of bandwidth over the USB bus. However, jury is still out on whether this takes out Octoprint as the bottleneck when printing fast circles, or simply raises the speed ceiling before octoprint bottlenecks because the Pi still needs to supply instructions just in time and is timing sensitive - if the SKR board's marlin buffer empties just for a tiny period of time despite having large bandwidth, then you still get stutters. For my own firmware build, I've increased buffers just in case since theres gobs of memory available. My commit with my buffer settings. github.com/talldonkey/Marlin-2.0-SKR-1.3-Ender-3/commit/8dd0490d8ff123fd15fe7f4181a48a4c00d091ce I did a test print at 150mm/s inner walls (2600 acceleration) and 50mm/s outer walls (500 acceleration) (Via Octoprint) and was shocked at the quality I got. I was expecting a mess, but it came out 85% good.
I have tried those pins in the past on a MKS board with no success. I always thought they were for some sort of reference. I will have to test that again on this one.
@@ChrisRiley Must stay that fine tuning is a PITA... keep having less results then with my 4988 drivers.. ( hint: a video perhaps :) with voltage adjustment in uart mode )
Hi Chris, great video! I followed your instructions to install the skr on my Tevo Tarantula but I can't seem to get the REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER to work. It looks to be the same as the one on your Prusa. I even tried flipping the connectors with no luck. I also tested the controller on my old mks gen l and it does work. Let me know if you have any tricks to make it work with skr. Keep up the great work!
Never mind... controller works great now. I found a marlin2-skr13.patch for tarantula by azbesthu on github that did the trick. Btw, unlike mks gen l, no flipping of exp 1 & 2 connectors needed on the skr 1.3 board.
I have this board, expect to change orientations of pins for all the endstop connectors. It also uses a different layout for the bltouch. Is fixable by changing the orientation tho.
@@ChrisRiley I googled a bit an apparently they don't know for sure what the problem is. github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12403 But they are smart guys so I hope they will figure it out :) have you printed a longer print like 15-20hrs with marlin 2 yet?
@@Ardrak001 Ah, so maybe that printer homes at max? I am not for sure because I don't have any experience with it yet, but I should be checking one out soon.
Already bougth SKR1.1 + DRV8825 and replaced board on my Anet A6. I plan to replace DRV8825 (already have 5x TMC2130), but they are dirt cheap and for testing work very well. Btw - if you don't use dual extruder, you can just use E1 as second Z driver in marlin and you don't need to create Y cable
Is there a setting in Marlin that disables the 12/24 Out? I ask because after setting up and tweakin settings for my SKR v1.3 in the Marlin firmware my fan that is connected to it no longer comes on. It was running constantly when powered on. I am trying to use it to cool the Stepper Drivers. I switched my hotend fan to HE1 an d set it up to Auto start and stop at 50°. The part Cooling Fans work as well. It is just the fan in the 12/24 Out plug that is not working. I am wondering if I accidentally disabled it.
@@ChrisRiley hmm...🤔...Well I wonder why my fans are not running / spinning. It's really strange because when I run the fans directly to the pay they spin. But when I plug them into the 12/24v out they don't. Yet when I use my multi-meter on the 12/24 Out it reads 24v. The fans are rated 24v. Maybe I'll just run them directly to the PSU and give them their own controller to turn them on and off and adjust their speed. It'd be the easy way to fix it.
@@ChrisRiley Update: In my other earlier reply just below from a few minutes ago I said I might just go ahead and wire it directly to the PSU with its own controller. In getting ready to do this I noticed something. Something so obvious yet so mundane that I totally ignored it the whole time. The wires for my new set of 24v fans are all plugged into their connectors opposite from is needed. So the negative and positive are reversed. I just had to flipped them around. I sort of feel a bit dumb. 🥴 ROFLMAO Anyways it is all fixed now. Problem solved.🤘😉👍
Completely off topic to the video, but I have a newbie question about something I noticed: the cogwheel on the back of the extruder stepper. How does one modify the motor so as to have shaft coming the back so as to to do that?
I just use 2 small round magnets stacked on eachother. Then I glue it to the printed part. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3SDRCP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@ChrisRiley ah, so that's just for visibility of movement, not for actually turning the axle. In having issues loading my bmg, the usual load scripts just spit out "too long extrusion prevented", so I thought I could get physical :p
@@shrikept Right, it's just to help see if you are getting any extruder skips. You can break the load commands up like 100 at a time to get around that issue.
@@ChrisRiley yup, thanks. I'd worked it out, meanwhile, as well face-palming for confusing relative and absolute positioning. Thanks for the tip, anyway :)
So i have the TMC2208 v1.1 with no jumpers to solder. i had it working on gen L board with 1k resistor Y cable. but now i cant get it to work. even when I solder NC and Uart pins. i have connection between UART pin on driver and the one on the board. help. BTW printer saying TMC Connection error
Txs a lot for your informative installation. I followed your instructions and am happy to say everything works to a point. My screens on same readings as yours so quite happy and proud being a 1st timer at doing a modification like this. My only question being installing Merlin. My machine is tronxxy branded as a Prusa i3. I know. I would like to know what settings to change in Marlin as apposed to your machine. I believe your settings will not work on mine. Your valuable knowledge and assistance would be great appreciated. Just to inform you, I have never done any marlin configurations and uploads, so I will be watching and pausing your video. Thanks Wayne.
I would start here, github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.x/config you can take a config that might already work for your machine and copy the config files.
hi . i uplode the firmware every thing is ok but the endstop don't work i tray every thing invert the end stop . invert the motor . nothing change still the endstop don't work the wiring is correct ? can you help
@@ChrisRiley 😁 i fex the problem it's ok know. Just another problem 😆 the heatbead show on lcd 46 digress if unplug the Termestor show 39 . And when i started printer there's no problem the bead heated up when i checked it by laser thermometer is showing 26 degree 🙃
@@ChrisRiley true that - just a bummer that I upgraded to an mks gen l 2 months ago 😅 still, this is so fairly priced that I'm considering it just for the fun of it
Thanks for this helpful video! My printer is currently under surgery (rods, belts, bearings) and while I'm at it I thought I could replace the RAMPS 1.4 with a SKR 1.3 that I got a while ago, together with the TMC2208. So I need to jumper it properly _and_ solder the stepper drivers correctly for UART mode to work. Do you know if a MKS MINI is going to work instead of a discount full graphics controller? I really do love the bright backlight and crisp graphics of those.
I believe as of Marlin 2.0.3 the 2208 on the extruder is still not compatible with Linear Advance 1.5. When the GCode tells Marlin about the linear advance, the extruder stops moving. It was reported back on the GitHub and there is a solution which implies editing some files (not configuration.h or configuration_adv.h). However, as far as I know, the solution has not yet been implemented. That's why I'm still using A4988 (I think) on extruders on my Marlin driven machines.
Hey Felix, we are actually talking with Scott on Lu from Marlin on the Friday hangout. I will ask them. It will be on this channel. ua-cam.com/channels/POu2PrCF3J3j05L9jlEsMQ.htmlfeatured
Sure you can, but since the stock drivers are soldered to the mainboard, you'll still need some drivers for your steppers (either A4988, DRV8825 or any other in the same format. TMCs highly recommended)
Thanks for posting, I had a look at the SKR and it looked pretty promising, but as the Re Arm was available to me I plonked some LV8729's in one and put it on my kossel linear plus, the difference is quite amazing, 1/64 microstepping is plenty quiet for me and has plenty of torque even with the stepper Vref only @ 0.5v the motors stay pretty cool and unlike when testing the 2130's on the kossel I have no layer shifts, longest print so far has been 8 hours at 120mm/s, I have gone up to 160 mm/s but the stock effector arms rattle too much for my liking at that speed the only issue I have with the ReArm is its height, I really dont want to shove it under the heated bed because heatsinks on the steppers are pretty tall, this is why I am looking towards the SKR, I'll keep the ReArm as a backup
Hello Chris, Many thanks for your astoundingly sharp explanation. Even I can understand it! Well most of it anyway... This may sound dense but can you point me to an explanation of the settings required to adapt my new (to me) SKR 1.3 board to run the Delta geometry on my Anycubic Delta Plus? I have all the figures for Offsets, etc but I don't quite understand how they should be grafted into the Atom interface which is currently up to V 1.46.
The easiest way is to grab the example Delta config and build from there, you can download the examples here. github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.x/config
Thanks, Chris! I'm having a good time trying to co-ordinate all the fine YT clips on upgrading to SKR V1.3 with the frequently changed GUI appearances. Atom V1.46 now looks nothing like V 1.38 so I will need to stare at it for a few more hours to see where to go in connecting to the PCB. Maybe installing the earlier version to get going is a possibility... ?
Hey chris! Where did you connect the driver cooler fan? Some say 12v/24v 2 pin. Others say HE1. Also read about using y max and mosfet? What's would you do?
@@ChrisRiley I found a ender 3 config I had to modify a bit but it works great so far! Did my first auto home 5 min ago. It does use the HE1 and works great!
Any chance we can get BLTouch v3 to Marlin firmware video? I am confused on all the problems that came with the release of v3 and do not know what to do with my Marlin firmware, with bug fixes, "pull this capacitor", "it does not work" comments and need some real expert current guidance.
I've got a BLTouch V3 plugged in to my SKR v1.3 (Ender 3 upgrade). The probing wasn't consistent and sometimes the probe would trigger too soon. The fix for me was to ensure that "#define BLTOUCH_FORCE_5V_MODE" was un-commented (enabled). My BLTouch was the problematic version that was released in March and was quickly updated in April by the "newer V3" (not the 3.1). You'll need to swap the sensor wires around before you plug it into the servo pins on the SKR 1.3 board. Do a search for the SKR 1.3 pinout diagram, and match up the Signal, 5V, and Grd connections (orange, red, brown respectively). The end stop wires will depend on what type of switch you have.
I put the SKR 1.3 with 2209 drivers on the CR10 S5, and it works great. I'm having trouble getting the BL-Touch Smart V3.0 to work with it. Any pointers to getting BL-TOUCH going with SKR?
On the SKR, you can use the 3 servo pins, the 3 pins in front of the driver bank. You will have to swap the pins around they are not the same order as the BL touch uses. The black and white will go on Z no G and S as usual.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, I got it wired up. It does initialise and pop the pin in and out, but when it goes to home Z, the printhead just crashes into the bed, the pin doesn't pop out before the Z axis starts moving towards the bed. The Marlin config for the BL-TOUCH V3 seems conflicting depending on what I read.
I'm doing an SKR 1.3 swap on my Ender-3. I have everything working except for the extruder with TMC2208 in UART mode. The extruder acts weird and just vibrates when I send it move commands.
Are you using the stock screen to send move commands? I have a problem with 2208s in stand alone. When I try to move them on stock screen the move once then stop working.
@@mand0c0mmand0 All of the other axis move fine with my RepRap discount screen. But since you mentioned it I just tried it on from OctoPrint and it works fine.
Hi Chris. Your videos are awsome. You provide enough information that even a novice like me find it easy to follow. Can I ask if you could do a I stall video of SKR on a Cr10s Pro
Any chance you could do a Klipper install video on this board? I know you've done one using the Re-Arm board, but it would be great to see a config for this board with the 2208s in UART mode, or the 2130s in SPI mode
good job as usual. ur marlin 2.0 video helped me set this up a few weeks ago. keep in mind there is an issue with marlin 2.0 this board and 2130's doing linear advance. the extruder won't work. might be fixed now but a month ago I know it was an issue when. did it. took me 3 hours figuring out why my extruder wasn't working lol
Thanks! I hear ya, I think I have downloaded 2.0 about 6 different times now, there is always something popping up that is either broken or now fixed. :)
Hi Chris. No it isn't the raft,it appears to be in the start up sequence. It homes on the X stop and lays filament down and back up the very edge of the bed before laying the raft. Is it in the start up of the G code? Sorry I have no idea on programming
@@jeanraines3215 So in preferences printers machin settings look in start Gcode. There should be some G1 commands in there that do that priming line. You can take those out.
Chris - Thank you for this excellent video. By following this the steps that you outline I have just finished upgrading my Anycubic Kossel Plus to 32 bit SKR1.3 with TMC2208's. Just doing some simple test prints, but at this point I am amazed at how quiet the printer is with the 2208's. Need to finish tuning, and really want to see the effect on the print quality, and speed. I look forward to more content on the SKR v1.3! Thanks again!
Awesome Mark! Glad I could help out.
Quick PS. Just printed a couple of Benchies one at .2 and the other at .1 layer height. Both are perfect! Really recommend this upgrade. A few things to note though:
1) The polarity of the power input screw block is opposite from the other screw terminals for the heaters. Red on the LEFT for the power. And the screening is small and hard to see especially if there are a bunch of other wires already connected and getting in the way. I learned this the hard way. But the fuse did blow and protect the board, so was just out a buck for a new fuse.
2) JST connectors are a big pain to crimp. If I end up doing this again, I think that I might get some JST cables, and the solder them to the limit switches rather than try to crimp on new connectors.
Just moved to 32 bit, SKR1.3/2208 and tft35. Watched a ton of UA-cam vids but yours helped me the most, thanks for that.
Straight into it without a huge intro, love the drum solo, your videos move at a decent pace.
Thanks Bob, glad they are helpful.
I have the SKR v1.3 board and TMC2208s on the way and found this video. Thank you for being so thorough and making this excellent walk through.
My only suggestion is maybe place timestamps to different sections of the video in the description.
Right on man, thanks for the suggestion.
@@ChrisRiley When I hit the check mark to build it says it failed and every board that says skip for you says fail for me. But the LPC1768 and LPC1769 say success. Any suggestions?
The problem was fixed by restarting the computer and then re-downloading the firmware and starting all over.
Glad that fixed it.
You can’t find better content that is step by step. Thank you!
Thanks Chris! It's always good to have another Chris on board. :)
Awesomely detailed video on connecting and configuring! Thanks for all the hard work putting it all together.
Thanks for watching.
What a great video! Thank you very much. Please make more videos covering the SKR v1.3 and TMC drivers!
Hey thanks! Will do!
Superb video as always Chris, thank you. Especially since I am seriously considering the SKR 1.3 and 2208's for my Borg. Looking forward to more videos on this combo.
Thanks Spike! More to come.
Another excellent video and the timing could not have been better. I received my SKR board last week and it will be going in to the CoreXY I'm building.
Awesome! Glad it helped you.
Literally just bought an SKR board yesterday for an Ender 3 upgrade, so you gained a Patreon supporter.
Thanks so much for the support!
@@ChrisRiley I'd also been procrastinating the switch to platformio for arduino/esp projects, your video showed how easy it is to get up and going on it so thanks for that too (though I prefer vscode).
This is going to be so handy in a few days, I just ordered the SKR V1.3 and the TMC2130 SPI, thanks for this!
Nice Alex, glad to help!
Great video Chris! This is exactly what intermediate tinkerers want. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Will do!
Dude. Thumbs up and a sub. I've only seen a couple of you videos, but they all seem to be very informative. Thank you taking your time to do these!
Thanks Nick and thanks for the sub.
Your channel is boon to 3D printing world, please keep posting wonderful videos like this!!!
Thank you! I will do my best.
Another great TUT ! 32 bit boards are here to stay ! Thanks for making this one Chris !!!
Thanks Ron, your continued support is always appreciated.
The best walkthroughs on YT period. Thanks a lot!
Thank you!
Great Job with this one. That was a lot to cover! Good to see nice and cheap 32bit boards on the market with a good feature set.
Thanks Mike, hopefully I'll get to a lot more on 32bit.
My combo is on it's way so thanks for making this video! I'm looking forward to seeing other videos with the SKR 1.3 board.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
@@ChrisRiley Oh my... I'm an idiot. Got my board today however I thought I had ordered the 1.3 but in fact it is a 1.1 Mini. Cute little board. It will be used on the Ender 3 after I figure out how to set it up.
@@Leos-World I think the 1.1 should be pretty close to this one, just no uart and spi I think.
Simply the best SKR installation video ! Many Thanks
Thank you!
Thank you for posting this. I bought one of these 'for a rainy day', and was looking for some good info.
Happy to help. Thanks
Thank you so much for testing it!! I was really considering this board but lack of info was making a pain
Thanks for watching!
Dude, thank you so much for making all these videos. You always do a great job!!
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!
killing it like usual! everything i want to do you already have! appreciate the work man, keep it up
Thanks Andrew!
I just bought this combo but haven’t set up yet. Thank you for your great timing!
Great John, have fun!
These videos are so helpful, it's very much appreciated.
Great, glad you like them!
Thanks, Chris. Finally proper and specific movie about skr 1.3 on YT. Now I'm waiting about 2130 SPI MODE config. TMC2208 and TMC2130 will have a lot of views specific on ender3.
You;re very welcome. Yes, 2130's should be pretty similar, just different jumpers.
i just command my skr v1.3 on amazon with your description and explanation are clear great work Chris :)
Nice! Thanks Steeve!
Perfect timing. I recently received my SKR 1.3 board to fit in my Anet E10 but haven't had chance to try it out yet. This would be fun lol
Awesome Andy! Have fun.
Wow so much great information in 1 video. Thank You Chris.
Thanks man! I got to get caught up on your robot videos.
This is fenomenal! Thank you very much for this review. I have been thinking of getting this SKR board for a while now.. but just as you have pointed out.. can not really reach those speeds on my cartesian printer reliably for a good print quality. Thumbs up Chris! Really my favourite 3D printing hardware channel.
Thanks so much! Glad you like the content.
Hell yeah, this board rocks ! I've got it working few weeks ago and boy oh boy, its sweet as honey. I know it doesn't have all the features like a duet, but with that price its already a steal.
I'm glad it's working out.
Hey Chris, Thanks so much for another great video! This will be an excellent update for my delta.
Thanks Todd, yes that should work out well.
Was just looking for the jumper settings for the 2208's in stand alone, thanks for the video.
No problem 👍
Wow awesome little board!! nice review Chris!
Thanks Steeve!
Thanks Chris, nice video! I bought skr 1.3, tft 35, 2208 uart v3 and bltouch v3. Waiting for upcoming videos to learn from you and how to set up this board for full enjoy
Thanks, stay tuned,
Why wasn't the extruder turning during the test at 25:00 like it was during the tests on the 8 bit board?
That's a good question. Ha! There was a bug in Marlin 2.0 with the extruder, maybe I hit that. I will check it out. I also might have forgot to disable allow cold extrusion.
Can you help with ATOM? I clicked "SOMETHING" to try to get the side panel to appear. When I did, my top bar (File, edit, view, help) bar disappeared! Ctrl shift P doesn't show any viable commands to get things back to normal...
Hit the alt key to bring it back.
Great Video Chris, I bought one of these boards for my next printer project ( Up scaled HyperCube ). I really enjoyed your run thru of the basic config on your "Log" printer.
Great! I am glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Awesome thanks Chris 👍 I’ve had an skr 1.3 sitting on my desk for a couple weeks, gonna have to give it a shot
Do it! Thanks for watching.
I don't know if this has been posted before but you can configure marlin to use a second stepper driver to drive the additional Z motor. I did this with my Anet A8 and it was relatively easy the second I found the option. Even though Z doesn't move that much, I like having peace of mind that I don't put unnecessary load on one driver for two motors since I have an extra driver to do the job. I got myself some 2208's this week. Time to dig up my printer again and put them in.
Yes, thanks for the post, very easy to do.
Thanks Chris! You did a great job of putting this together.
Thanks
Another Great Video Chris. Thanks for the content.
Thanks for watching, as always Robert!
Very nice informative video Chris! I did not know your channel from before but will follow along as I am all about technical 3d printing nerdly stuff as I design 3d printers
Thanks! Glad you like it.
@@ChrisRiley If you also could check speed printing from octoprint that would be nice. This is a buffer issue in the firmware and not processor as I understand so we might see studder also here?
@@PRO3DESIGN For sure, that is one of the main points I want to test.
You can enable dual z motors in the adv config and use the spare extruder spot for z2.
Yeah, I thought I talked about that in this video, I guess I cut it out.
Good video series. I started out with mainframes and I don't see how you keep all of these settings in mind and are able to riff them out like that. I'm envious. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Thomas, it's a look to remember for sure.
Love this video. One swapping to the JST connectors I see the board has 3 pin for end stops and 2 pin for fans and thermistors. Do 2 pin JSTs fit in a 3 pin?
They are probably a bit to tight for 2's to fit on 3's.
Chris Riley great. Do you know the pin to pin pitch? Are the JST ZH or XH or RE or something else ?
@@KryzOrlinski Most of them use the JST-XHP. 2.5mm I think.
Great video Chris, this should help alot of people out!
Thanks Simmo, I hope so.
You can easliy configure Marlin to use the E1 Stepper as Z1 if you have a standard single-extruder setup. It keeps the required current on the stepper down, that is something you usually should care about on the "small" tmcs like 2130 or 2208.
I thought I actually mentioned that in this video, but I guess I cut it out. I will show that config on the next one. Thanks for the comment.
@@ChrisRiley Please do I'd like to do this :) As much as just reading the docs helps I still like to see others do it.
Outstanging. Just bought one of these boards for a new build. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for watching!
Your the man chris yet again I just upgraded my cr10 to this board with 2208s in uart and it would have been way easier if i saw this before
Thanks Phillip!
Bigtreetech SKR mini E3 seems to be out 2 months ago. It has 2209 drivers and all integrated...but as 2209:s seem to have ran out almost globally they ship at end of october this year...
Marlin 2.0.x seems to have support also for that. Just ordered it from their ae store as it looked like a good upgrade for CR-10 mini controller board.
@@iikkakonola Yeah, I really want to get my hands on one of those.
i got my hands on one 2 weeks ago, just haven't had the guts to install it yet as i hastily just bought it without researching into specs(d'oh!) and it has max power rating of 180W/12V and 360W/24V. I have a CR-10 mini with 220W heated bed and 40W stock hotend running on 12V. This adds up for 260W power on 12V and the board has 20A fuse, that already is too much for that. I have to dive into the mosfet specs that board has, i think those will go first if i change for a bigger fuse. I have a reddit post here about all this : www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/czg06t/cr10_mini_with_skr_mini_e3/
@@iikkakonola Does the Mini have an external mosfet you can use? That might be the way to go, add one of those in for the bed.
@@ChrisRiley it does not, but i can get it online...so that would make heated bed output act as a signal for the mosfet? That would be clever!
Great video, very helpful but after upgrading marlin with Your help my control button works the other way around (turning it clockwise leads to decrease value) I wonder if there is a way to reverse it
Percussor S. I’m assuming your controller utilizes a rotary encoder?
Configuration.h: Line 1620, change;
//#define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION
To
#define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION
Compile and flash firmware.bin to your skr v1.3
@@makmillion Thanks a lot, it worked! In mine code it was line 1643 but was pretty easy to find when I knew what to look for. Thanks again
Awesome, thanks for the help here.
You have a typo! 2208 uart setting current not voltage as you say in the video at around 30:00. So setting current and volt should be correct no?
You're correct, it should be current.
Nice. This video will help alot. I have a Delta that really suffers with 8bit Marlin. I was waiting for a replacement 32bit board, and the know how to upgrade. I upgraded to tmc2130's but with spi, didn't know uart mode less wiring... Thank you again. Another upgrade but now I have direction. Already a patreon but I think I'll make a donation too.
Hey Nuroo, thanks man! At this price it's hard to say know. Your support of the channel is greatly appreciated.
@@ChrisRiley That's what I was thinking as I was watching video. But we really appreciate your leg work. Do you have a single 1 time donation link?
@@nuroo1 Hey man, I do have a PayPal link. www.paypal.me/ChrisBasement
Thanks for the Paypal! You the man!!!
@@ChrisRiley No worries. U da man. Great video, SKR ordered right after watching your video. You need affiliate links
My only concern is if there is easy access to the SPI to use external devices like the MAX31855
I didn't see any extra pins, but there pinout isn't that great. So it might be there.
23:20 - Don't forget `M502`, `M500` after flashing the new firmware to make sure your new configured settings get activated and saved to the EEPROM. (The board reset button likely does not clear the EEPROM, and Marlin saves EEPROM data to SD or MCU flash on some boards.)
Thanks Scott! Yes, I totally didn't do that in this one. Hopefully I remembered that in the Re-arm video. LOL It will be in the next one indeed.
@Bryan Rentoul I always forget to mention the eeprom reset. :)
@@soundspark Which interface?
@@soundspark Ah, gotcha.
I just heard that the SKR V1.3 pro is coming out in a few days.
The main differences are
- 15ABlade Fuse added and 30A Fuse changed.
- Built-in 6-channel driver with Dual-Z function Supports 7 ports.
- Changed to a stronger screw terminal.
- USB B port addition.
- PWM FAN 4 ports.
- Added I2C.
It also might have the STM32F4 as the MCU. The FPU for Floating operation is also a separate chip, and the maximum operating clock is 180MHz.
Link to source. I would love to hold off for this updated version!
Very nice! We might have to check that out.
@@simulatedfish1995 source: bigtreetech facebook page. Biqu pcb designer often post there.
Hi Chris, great video. I got one of these running with some help from your rearm video. (So, thanks twice.) It was pretty much a drop in replacement for an MKS 1.4 and is working well so far in an old FT5 r1. It's so much quieter that it seems weird.
Margin notes... I had the same 2208 v1.2 driver you used and it was only necessary to connect the J2 pad (the one closest to uart pin) with the center pad (chip) to enable uart. As I understood it, the other pin/pad was unused in the current config so it doesn't hurt anything to connect all three as you did though. The drivers get a little warm, and the vref is different than allegro, so mind the current. People say stealthchop robs too much torque for extruders so I didn't try quiet mode for that, but the 2208 is working fine for 'E' in spread cycle with a gear reduction extruder.
Might want to sign your channel up as a brave browser content creator so people can toss bat tokens your way. Take care...
Thanks for the comment, glad to know it helped you twice! Thanks for the extra info on the 2208's. I have never heard of brave browser, I will have to look into that.
Nice work Chris
Thanks Jose!
Yes! I was hoping you would do a video on this board. Thanks!
You bet Scott!
My drivers work fine when I am using them in standby mode but whenever I try to use UART my LCD says TMC Connection Error. I am using the same board as you except I am using v2 TMC 2208, I even bought some TMC 2130 and they do the same thing fine in standby, but then the same message in SPI. I have the pins configured correctly on my board and changed my firmware, what is causing this?
Did you solder the jumpers on the driver?
@@ChrisRiley Yes, I did
@@treyroudebush1029 That's the only thing I can think of. Maybe the board has issues.
@@treyroudebush1029
Make sure you enable "#define TMC_DEBUG" in Marlin so you can send the 'M122' command, which may help you troubleshoot the issue. It may just be one TMC2208 that isn't talking. M122 should show you which drivers it 'sees' and could point the finger at a bad driver. Hope you figure it out and get it working! :)
Hi Chris, thanks for making this video, I enjoyed especially the circle speed tests. I have some suggestions for your next video testing out the SKR1.3. I've been an early adopter of the SKR1.3 BIQU sent me a free SKR 1.3 for contributing the "popular" product suggestion of TMC2208 UART w/o flying wires, so I've been using it for a while.
Suggestions:
1. Using Vase mode will result in a constant circular speed, without the layer change jerk/bump. This will make it easier to visually separate stutters from layer change jerks.
2. Test to see if printing via USB via Octoprint behaves differently. Ie, see if the Octoprint USB bandwidth bottleneck is still a factor with the SKR1.3. The interesting thing about the SKR1.3 (and setting serial port to -1 in marlin configuration.h is a clue to this) is that Baud Rate doesn't matter whether its 9.6k or 500K - there is no USB to serial conversion happening - There is a direct USB connection between the pi (or computer) into the SKR.
Andy Shaw, who personally wrote most of the SKR/LPC1768 USB stack said, verbatim, "There is no USB to serial conversion on the SKR boards. The USB stack (which runs on the LPC1768) handles the "USB serial" connection directly." Source: facebook.com/groups/505736576548648/permalink/668928390229465/?comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22O%22%7D
Therefore in theory, there is oodles of bandwidth over the USB bus. However, jury is still out on whether this takes out Octoprint as the bottleneck when printing fast circles, or simply raises the speed ceiling before octoprint bottlenecks because the Pi still needs to supply instructions just in time and is timing sensitive - if the SKR board's marlin buffer empties just for a tiny period of time despite having large bandwidth, then you still get stutters. For my own firmware build, I've increased buffers just in case since theres gobs of memory available. My commit with my buffer settings. github.com/talldonkey/Marlin-2.0-SKR-1.3-Ender-3/commit/8dd0490d8ff123fd15fe7f4181a48a4c00d091ce
I did a test print at 150mm/s inner walls (2600 acceleration) and 50mm/s outer walls (500 acceleration) (Via Octoprint) and was shocked at the quality I got. I was expecting a mess, but it came out 85% good.
Great suggestion, thank you. I will be sure to do that.
I was reading last night is does have pins for a 2nd Z motor 4 pins above the driver pinout 8:03
I have tried those pins in the past on a MKS board with no success. I always thought they were for some sort of reference. I will have to test that again on this one.
@@ChrisRiley ahh i should have known just going by what I read . Ive never had an skr 1.3 board. Will tomorrow
Great video. Really fancy getting this board to upgrade my Anet A8
Thanks! It's so affordable, why not. ;)
@@ChrisRiley Exactly, I just ordered one along with some A4988's (for now). Will upgrade to TMC's later on. Greetings from Wales :)
Fantastic video!
Thanks John!
Hei man, great vid as always... just installed this board myself,loving it so far....
Great! Seems to be pretty good so far.
@@ChrisRiley Must stay that fine tuning is a PITA... keep having less results then with my 4988 drivers.. ( hint: a video perhaps :) with voltage adjustment in uart mode )
Hi Chris, great video! I followed your instructions to install the skr on my Tevo Tarantula but I can't seem to get the REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER to work. It looks to be the same as the one on your Prusa. I even tried flipping the connectors with no luck. I also tested the controller on my old mks gen l and it does work. Let me know if you have any tricks to make it work with skr. Keep up the great work!
Never mind... controller works great now. I found a marlin2-skr13.patch for tarantula by azbesthu on github that did the trick. Btw, unlike mks gen l, no flipping of exp 1 & 2 connectors needed on the skr 1.3 board.
@@jims5884 Nice! This good info to know for others.
I have this board, expect to change orientations of pins for all the endstop connectors. It also uses a different layout for the bltouch. Is fixable by changing the orientation tho.
I noticed that over the weekend while I was testing. Thanks for watching!
I heard there are layer shifting problems on marlin bugfix 2.x . do you know anything about it?
I have heard others say this, but I haven't seen it yet. I am sure they will have it worked out soon.
@@ChrisRiley I googled a bit an apparently they don't know for sure what the problem is. github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12403 But they are smart guys so I hope they will figure it out :) have you printed a longer print like 15-20hrs with marlin 2 yet?
Not yet, but I hope to have a config up and printing more stable soon.
@@ChrisRiley Alrighty. Good luck :)
how to use 7 steping motor
You can use Duet and a Due X board.
Hello Chris, Happy Wednesday! Great video! I may try this on my Anet A8!
Hey Charlie, It's so affordable, why not.
When I home the printer it isn't showing 0 for x&y on the display, any ideas?
Hmmmm, what does it show? Is it a negative number? What printer are you using?
@@ChrisRiley I have an ender 5, when the printer is in the home position the x&y shows 220
@@Ardrak001 Ah, so maybe that printer homes at max? I am not for sure because I don't have any experience with it yet, but I should be checking one out soon.
This is going to save me some time this weekend. Thanks for the info.
Awesome! Good luck on your install!
Already bougth SKR1.1 + DRV8825 and replaced board on my Anet A6. I plan to replace DRV8825 (already have 5x TMC2130), but they are dirt cheap and for testing work very well.
Btw - if you don't use dual extruder, you can just use E1 as second Z driver in marlin and you don't need to create Y cable
Nice! Yep, I thought I touched on that in this video, but I guess I cut it out. I will add it to the next video.
I usually don't comment on other channels. But bang up job
Thanks for stopping by.
Is there a setting in Marlin that disables the 12/24 Out? I ask because after setting up and tweakin settings for my SKR v1.3 in the Marlin firmware my fan that is connected to it no longer comes on. It was running constantly when powered on. I am trying to use it to cool the Stepper Drivers. I switched my hotend fan to HE1 an d set it up to Auto start and stop at 50°. The part Cooling Fans work as well. It is just the fan in the 12/24 Out plug that is not working. I am wondering if I accidentally disabled it.
I don't think there is. I think that plug is directly linked to the input power.
@@ChrisRiley hmm...🤔...Well I wonder why my fans are not running / spinning. It's really strange because when I run the fans directly to the pay they spin. But when I plug them into the 12/24v out they don't. Yet when I use my multi-meter on the 12/24 Out it reads 24v. The fans are rated 24v. Maybe I'll just run them directly to the PSU and give them their own controller to turn them on and off and adjust their speed. It'd be the easy way to fix it.
@@ChrisRiley Update: In my other earlier reply just below from a few minutes ago I said I might just go ahead and wire it directly to the PSU with its own controller. In getting ready to do this I noticed something. Something so obvious yet so mundane that I totally ignored it the whole time. The wires for my new set of 24v fans are all plugged into their connectors opposite from is needed. So the negative and positive are reversed. I just had to flipped them around. I sort of feel a bit dumb. 🥴 ROFLMAO
Anyways it is all fixed now. Problem solved.🤘😉👍
@@VectorRoll LOL, I do that kind of stuff all the time.
Good job. 32bit is a quite interesting topic. 😃
Yes it is, I enjoyed making this video. Thank you for watching.
I have one of these coming as well as some 2208 for testing.
Cool James, they are pretty cool for the money it seems.
Chris Riley looks like it. Starting my 32 bit board experiments.
@@ChrisRiley Seems like it. Have you found it to be better than 8 bit boards? if so how?
@@ZebraandDonkey I haven't done a lot of testing to compare yet. I have been able to stall an 8 bit board speed wise. 32bit handled it just fine.
Completely off topic to the video, but I have a newbie question about something I noticed: the cogwheel on the back of the extruder stepper. How does one modify the motor so as to have shaft coming the back so as to to do that?
I just use 2 small round magnets stacked on eachother. Then I glue it to the printed part. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3SDRCP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@ChrisRiley ah, so that's just for visibility of movement, not for actually turning the axle.
In having issues loading my bmg, the usual load scripts just spit out "too long extrusion prevented", so I thought I could get physical :p
@@shrikept Right, it's just to help see if you are getting any extruder skips. You can break the load commands up like 100 at a time to get around that issue.
@@ChrisRiley yup, thanks. I'd worked it out, meanwhile, as well face-palming for confusing relative and absolute positioning. Thanks for the tip, anyway :)
@@shrikept Anytime!
So i have the TMC2208 v1.1 with no jumpers to solder. i had it working on gen L board with 1k resistor Y cable. but now i cant get it to work. even when I solder NC and Uart pins. i have connection between UART pin on driver and the one on the board. help. BTW printer saying TMC Connection error
Sounds like one of the jumper connections is open maybe. Not sure.
@@ChrisRiley I just ordered the ones you used in the video.
Sweet!,this will definitely help the 3d community out!
Great, glad to hear it.
Txs a lot for your informative installation. I followed your instructions and am happy to say everything works to a point. My screens on same readings as yours so quite happy and proud being a 1st timer at doing a modification like this. My only question being installing Merlin. My machine is tronxxy branded as a Prusa i3. I know. I would like to know what settings to change in Marlin as apposed to your machine. I believe your settings will not work on mine. Your valuable knowledge and assistance would be great appreciated. Just to inform you, I have never done any marlin configurations and uploads, so I will be watching and pausing your video. Thanks Wayne.
I would start here, github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.x/config you can take a config that might already work for your machine and copy the config files.
Great board! I really enjoyed. My FlyingBear Tornado 1 got a new life.
I'm glad I could help
hi . i uplode the firmware every thing is ok but the endstop don't work i tray every thing invert the end stop . invert the motor . nothing change still the endstop don't work the wiring is correct ? can you help
Are you using a 2 or 3 wire endstop?
@@ChrisRiley 😁 i fex the problem it's ok know. Just another problem 😆 the heatbead show on lcd 46 digress if unplug the Termestor show 39 . And when i started printer there's no problem the bead heated up when i checked it by laser thermometer is showing 26 degree 🙃
@@OyaVapor Excellent!
Thanks for this - considering grabbing an skr 1.3 now :)
You're welcome! At this price, it's hard not to buy one.
@@ChrisRiley true that - just a bummer that I upgraded to an mks gen l 2 months ago 😅 still, this is so fairly priced that I'm considering it just for the fun of it
Thanks for this helpful video! My printer is currently under surgery (rods, belts, bearings) and while I'm at it I thought I could replace the RAMPS 1.4 with a SKR 1.3 that I got a while ago, together with the TMC2208. So I need to jumper it properly _and_ solder the stepper drivers correctly for UART mode to work. Do you know if a MKS MINI is going to work instead of a discount full graphics controller? I really do love the bright backlight and crisp graphics of those.
Yes, it should be, you just need to use this line in the config instead. //#define MKS_MINI_12864
I believe as of Marlin 2.0.3 the 2208 on the extruder is still not compatible with Linear Advance 1.5. When the GCode tells Marlin about the linear advance, the extruder stops moving. It was reported back on the GitHub and there is a solution which implies editing some files (not configuration.h or configuration_adv.h). However, as far as I know, the solution has not yet been implemented. That's why I'm still using A4988 (I think) on extruders on my Marlin driven machines.
Hey Felix, we are actually talking with Scott on Lu from Marlin on the Friday hangout. I will ask them. It will be on this channel. ua-cam.com/channels/POu2PrCF3J3j05L9jlEsMQ.htmlfeatured
Can I use this video without having TMC2208 drivers and using it on a Ender 3?
Sure you can, but since the stock drivers are soldered to the mainboard, you'll still need some drivers for your steppers (either A4988, DRV8825 or any other in the same format. TMCs highly recommended)
Yep, like Zeen said, you can use any driver you want on the SKR.
@@ChrisRiley but I can't use no driver at all right?
@@broom6958 right, you need a driver of some kind.
@@ChrisRiley alright. Ordered the tmc2208 now. Any known problems with an Ender 3? Is there a guide for the ender 3 with the skr 1.3?
Great content as always Chris! Interested to see if this board lives up to its potential and know where to go for the important info. Thanks.
Happy to help
Hi Chris is there any chance to make a PINDA sensor installation video to SKR v1.3 ??? Many thanks in advance
It will be coming up soon, stay tuned.
@@ChrisRiley you are a star !
Thanks for posting, I had a look at the SKR and it looked pretty promising, but as the Re Arm was available to me I plonked some LV8729's in one and put it on my kossel linear plus, the difference is quite amazing, 1/64 microstepping is plenty quiet for me and has plenty of torque even with the stepper Vref only @ 0.5v the motors stay pretty cool and unlike when testing the 2130's on the kossel I have no layer shifts, longest print so far has been 8 hours at 120mm/s, I have gone up to 160 mm/s but the stock effector arms rattle too much for my liking at that speed the only issue I have with the ReArm is its height, I really dont want to shove it under the heated bed because heatsinks on the steppers are pretty tall, this is why I am looking towards the SKR, I'll keep the ReArm as a backup
Right on Andy, yeah I would say the SKR is just a lot easier to install and your right it would be about half as tall as re-arm sandwich.
Hello Chris, Many thanks for your astoundingly sharp explanation. Even I can understand it! Well most of it anyway...
This may sound dense but can you point me to an explanation of the settings required to adapt my new (to me) SKR 1.3 board to run the Delta geometry on my Anycubic Delta Plus? I have all the figures for Offsets, etc but I don't quite understand how they should be grafted into the Atom interface which is currently up to V 1.46.
The easiest way is to grab the example Delta config and build from there, you can download the examples here. github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.x/config
Thanks, Chris!
I'm having a good time trying to co-ordinate all the fine YT clips on upgrading to SKR V1.3 with the frequently changed GUI appearances. Atom V1.46 now looks nothing like V 1.38 so I will need to stare at it for a few more hours to see where to go in connecting to the PCB. Maybe installing the earlier version to get going is a possibility... ?
Hey chris! Where did you connect the driver cooler fan? Some say 12v/24v 2 pin. Others say HE1. Also read about using y max and mosfet? What's would you do?
I think I am going to move my hotend fan to HE1 and try to make it auto, then use the 12v pins for the board fan. Yeah, that would work with a mosfet.
@@ChrisRiley I found a ender 3 config I had to modify a bit but it works great so far! Did my first auto home 5 min ago. It does use the HE1 and works great!
@@trickygaming773 Very nice!
Awsome man!thank you...!i just tag your video on my group so anyone can see it!
Awesome, thank you!
Any chance we can get BLTouch v3 to Marlin firmware video? I am confused on all the problems that came with the release of v3 and do not know what to do with my Marlin firmware, with bug fixes, "pull this capacitor", "it does not work" comments and need some real expert current guidance.
I need to get a hold of a v3, there have been a lot of questions on it.
I've got a BLTouch V3 plugged in to my SKR v1.3 (Ender 3 upgrade). The probing wasn't consistent and sometimes the probe would trigger too soon. The fix for me was to ensure that "#define BLTOUCH_FORCE_5V_MODE" was un-commented (enabled). My BLTouch was the problematic version that was released in March and was quickly updated in April by the "newer V3" (not the 3.1). You'll need to swap the sensor wires around before you plug it into the servo pins on the SKR 1.3 board. Do a search for the SKR 1.3 pinout diagram, and match up the Signal, 5V, and Grd connections (orange, red, brown respectively). The end stop wires will depend on what type of switch you have.
I put the SKR 1.3 with 2209 drivers on the CR10 S5, and it works great. I'm having trouble getting the BL-Touch Smart V3.0 to work with it. Any pointers to getting BL-TOUCH going with SKR?
On the SKR, you can use the 3 servo pins, the 3 pins in front of the driver bank. You will have to swap the pins around they are not the same order as the BL touch uses. The black and white will go on Z no G and S as usual.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, I got it wired up. It does initialise and pop the pin in and out, but when it goes to home Z, the printhead just crashes into the bed, the pin doesn't pop out before the Z axis starts moving towards the bed. The Marlin config for the BL-TOUCH V3 seems conflicting depending on what I read.
@@originaltrilogy1 There are some settings in configuration_adv.h you might have a look at. Not sure what is going on, but they may help.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, it was a silly mistake on my part, I was editing one set of config files, but compiling a different set :/
I'm doing an SKR 1.3 swap on my Ender-3. I have everything working except for the extruder with TMC2208 in UART mode. The extruder acts weird and just vibrates when I send it move commands.
Are you using the stock screen to send move commands? I have a problem with 2208s in stand alone. When I try to move them on stock screen the move once then stop working.
@@mand0c0mmand0 All of the other axis move fine with my RepRap discount screen. But since you mentioned it I just tried it on from OctoPrint and it works fine.
disable pressure advance or set the minimum pulse to 1 for the Extruder
Yeah, I have seen this a couple of times now, not sure where the bug is. The controller or pressure advance.
My problem has been resolved by using latest uplaod of Marlin. Seems it was a bug.
Hi Chris. Your videos are awsome. You provide enough information that even a novice like me find it easy to follow. Can I ask if you could do a I stall video of SKR on a Cr10s Pro
I don't have one of those, but it is going to be really close to the Ender3 work we are doing. THanks for watching!
Any chance you could do a Klipper install video on this board? I know you've done one using the Re-Arm board, but it would be great to see a config for this board with the 2208s in UART mode, or the 2130s in SPI mode
Yeah, I can work on something like that. More SKR videos to come.
good job as usual. ur marlin 2.0 video helped me set this up a few weeks ago. keep in mind there is an issue with marlin 2.0 this board and 2130's doing linear advance. the extruder won't work. might be fixed now but a month ago I know it was an issue when. did it. took me 3 hours figuring out why my extruder wasn't working lol
Thanks! I hear ya, I think I have downloaded 2.0 about 6 different times now, there is always something popping up that is either broken or now fixed. :)
Great video as usual. How do I stop my Ender3 putting down the first layers on the left of the bed before printing
Is it a skirt? You can change that up in the slicer.
Hi Chris. No it isn't the raft,it appears to be in the start up sequence. It homes on the X stop and lays filament down and back up the very edge of the bed before laying the raft. Is it in the start up of the G code? Sorry I have no idea on programming
@@jeanraines3215 Yep, that's the prime line. What slicer are you using?
Cura 3.6
@@jeanraines3215 So in preferences printers machin settings look in start Gcode. There should be some G1 commands in there that do that priming line. You can take those out.