Milling Multiple Keyways in Alignment on a Bridgeport Milling Machine - Manual Machinist
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- Have you ever wondered how multiple keyways are cut on small machines. With limited travel, the Bridgeport milling machine can only cut a short distance. For applications of low tolerance, I have the solution.
Using nothing more than a standard Bridgeport 1J milling machine and a machinist level, I mill three keyways to near perfection.
Yes, there are far more precise ways to do this, and I do know how to do them. But when the application does not require the precision, why waste my time on setup and the customers money.
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Great idea using a level to set the orientation of the key slots. I learned something again.
Great video,
When we cut slots on longer pieces with multiple to all be in line we don’t use a vise on the table, drop the material straight in the table with clamps and you can do slots without moving the work piece, when you are out of travel on the last ones, you can rotate your head on the column and extend the turret to finish. And if possible cut key slot to depth In one pass if your machine can handle it, prevents steps in your slot.
I worked with a friend of mine for a few months. I had two urgent jobs each morning
1. Make the coffee
2. Clean the lathe and area
Actually loved doing that. The coffee made it worthwhile ! hope its not too cold where you are.
2 flutes all day for keyways I agree. I like tialn coated 2 flute carbide endmills for keys. Most all the shafts I do are 4340 or 4140 quenched and tempered though. Good Ole levels and sharpie marks, that's how it's done 90% of the time. These tail drums and sprockets don't care of its off a little in the lengths lol.
Making the end support for that mill might be a good project for your apprentice.
He has been working on a ton of stuff. I will have to do an update video. He is picking this stuff up fast. I hope I can keep him long term.
By feel and sound, ain't that the truth. Nice video......Dave
I actually met a legally blind machinist once, still making parts. He couldn't see good, but could hear and feel what was happening. Made amazing stuff.
👍🏻on 2 flute the old timers taught me to use 2 flute straight flute they would grind .0005 to .001 total under size so you end up with a nice tight key fit if there was any deflection. They also said that is the guy that is doing the assembly's job to properly fit the key he can always take a little off with some emery cloth and that you don't want the keystock to just fall in. Good to see you're 1/2 inch tool cut a .499. You rebel climb milling 😁😃😄. Got to break the rules sometimes to make the $$$'s
I like these simple applications with just the Bridgeport and/ or lathe especially when I get up early in the morning and am having coffee and trying to wake up.
Man , I need to make some of those supports for my mill tables . Great idea .
Thats what you call a proper job for a job shop!
I have been watching your channel for quite some time now. I enjoy every video you publish. I cut a long keyway one time. I replaced the lead screw on my 52" Craftsman lathe and it was longer than the Grizzly mill table that I had at the time. I used two square 5c collet blocks with collets inside to keep the keyway aligned. I would loosen one and move it down the lead screw and then tighten it and repeat on the other collet block. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Love seeing that H leveling set up you made for #2 mill.......I made one almost exact to that but mod mine with slots on each side of the H uprights to hold a horizontal cross piece...Cross piece is there for when you use parallels in the main vice to support the work piece (which puts it a lil higher than the bed of the vice) and the cross piece (which can be placed up or down its slots depending on the height necessary) is then supported underneath with machinists jacks to exact height needed of the work piece.....since the one end of the workpiece is tight in the vice....the far end can then be clamped down snug to alleviate any harmonics or chatter.....w the H support abt 3/4 of the way along the workpiece.....try it and see if you like that....simple to do......
As usual LOVE what you are doing and explaining to the masses...Keep up the good work....hoping the cold n snow leave quick !!!!!!!!
Don
Good on ye. I'm a woodworker with minimal metal work experience, based in the UK (the imperial system fries my brain, lol). Great to see those old machines in operation. They don't make things like they used to. Thanks for sharing. All the best.
@@ellieprice363 Thanks for that 😁 T'was a light hearted comment. I'm 53 and have used the metric system my whole working life so that's what's familiar to me, though being the UK the Imperial system is still used too and I do regularly convert down to a quarter inch. Beyond that, however, if I had to subtract 9/32 from 1/8 say, it would take me some time. I realise that's just a lack of practice. Always makes me chuckle when we occasionally combine the two systems. "Hey, what size is that?" "It's 3 feet by 50mm". 😂 Peace
So when you rotate the shaft to cut the last key way you also need to rotate the level so the adjustment screw is on the same side of the shaft as before otherwise you double the error. I am just thinking and for sure could be wrong but I am in a Holiday Inn Express right now.
Nicely done Josh, simple and straightforward, thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for sharing and all the great information and videos that you do. What cutting oil do you use? It's hard to find good cutting oil might as well use motor oil, all the good additives are taken out. I like clamping a v block to the shaft and leveling or square to the table. The rose index works , not bad mouthing your setup many ways to skin a cat thanks ed
Good to see you. I did not know that you can cut both forwards and then back. I am glad that you were able to meet your customer's needs. I would get in a lot of trouble in your shop because I do not know the different grades of steel. Thanks for the good work on the job and on the video. I am sure that you are looking forward to spring. 😎😎😎
Climb vs conventional cut only matters when doing a partial width cut. When you go full width of the cutter the forces on either side of the slot cancel each other out.
@@carters2
I am not a machinist, but thanks for the feedback. I do make some metal art. If you want to see it, go to my old video on my channel. Thanks and I hope you have a great day.
This was great to watch, thank. I always find it very interesting to see how you approuch jobs like this, always lots to learn
Lots of good tips in this video. Thank you.
Nice setup and machining Josh, single pass is possibly a tad too much material for the Bridgeport on a 1/2" slot.
Great photography 👌.
Thanks for sharing
Actually, I usually do run single pass if its not a critical keyway. 1/2" 2 flute will do it just fine, and still hold great tolerance for this kind of work. It is amazing what a 1 HP BP can do.
Looks good, very long keyway, 43 bannana's
Great video Josh, keep'um coming..
That was somewhat of an unusual job. It would be interesting to know what machine the shafts are for and why the three key-ways.
I do stuff like this all the time. lined up keyways are quite common.
Josh, using the level like that on the shaft, does it require the table of the mill also be level as well? thanks for another great video
Good Stuff
Good video.
If you used the table slot instead of the vise then no need to shim up. Of course maybe you use the vise a lot so not worth taking it off. Lots of ways to do the job! 😊
The vise comes off the mill maybe 2 times a year. 99% of my mill work fits in the vise.
Take a v-block with a clamp put in on the bar where it won't be in the way. indicate it flat-cut key way- move piece - re-indicate flat (V-block) - cut other key way
I have done that sometimes. Other times this is better. It all depends on the application.
Thank You
I love that you talk about the practicalities of a job that doesn't need to be to a couple of tenths. Hobby machinist here so here is a question. What's your take on moving the knee of the mill versus the quill for this type of job?? My z axis on the DRO is on the quill so I rarely move the knee. Thoughts?
Generally, I will give myself an inch of quill travel from the top before moving the knee up. Any more than that and I prefer to adjust the knee. Too much stickout of the quill with start to deflect in the cuts. I don't have any Z axis readouts, I just use the dial on the knee.
Groovy
nice
Very nice! I find when I don’t cut the key way to depth in one pass the key way gets wider. I watch Abom 79 and as I recall he cuts in one pass. I’m a novice and just wondering. I’m using a Bridgeport also.
Thanks
It depends a lot in your tooling and the material being cut. Sometimes I go full depth, sometimes I don't. With a 2 flute I generally don't get any oversize, just with 4 flute.
That is cutting like EN3b or free cutting steel Josh
It's 1018, seems to be the only thing available around here that isn't special order. It did cut nice.
This was great to watch, thank you Josh. I always want to know which machine the part is for, I guess sometimes the customer doesn’t always tell you 🤔
I get curious too, but they don't pay me to know that stuff.
You just saved me the cost of a second Kurt vise
Have you tried feeding while plunging? For most of the work I do a digital bevel box is accurate enough to keep inline. Also wondering why you put the key steel in rather than just sitting on the keyway?
I use center cutting endmills for the most part so no need to plunge and feed. I use the key because I can trust the bottom of the keyway more than the top edges. A little burr or a little too hard with the file and you have variations in the outer edges.
@@TopperMachineLLC thanks that’s good to know
Didn’t want to give it a go in the horizontal? That’s my favorite way
I like the horizontal, but setup time is not worth it sometimes. If I had 10 or more of this size, or 3" diameter and larger are horizontal jobs.
I.was watching all calmly and then i heard your machine make a terrible rumbling sound. Took me a few seconds to realize my wife.started the dryer right behind me.
I'm having a fight in my mind... When you trued your level up to the key I believe you had the adjustment end of the level to the back of the machine, when you flipped the part end for end the adjustment end of the level was to the front of the mill, you kept the level "In time" with the shaft but not the mill. dose that mean you put a "Clock" between key 2 and 3 ? Beings you adjusted the level you were showing true to the key not to earth flat with the level
P.S. I know you said it didn't need to be exact, I'm just thinking of this for practice :)
I’ll try 2 flute. What speed do you run? I’m usually cutting 1/4” key ways. I make shafts for my brother in law. He’s a certified seed potato farmer.
Great Video... I am a beginner working on a project to cut a keyway. What speed and you turning the tool at?
A machinist that makes chips still. Sorry ABom, but you need to get back to making some parts like this guy. Keep up the good content.
I agree. I stopped watching that channel a while ago. He drags out the videos unnecessarily and it’s rarely machining these days. Such a shame as it was at one time a superb channel.
What kind of cutting oil do you use. Looks like used motor oil.
what speed is the spindle running?
How could you accurately do keways say 90 or 180 apart
Do you provide this machine
ahh! the smell of hot thick cutting oil.
Must be cutting oil.