This Is Why You Have Shifter Slop! E36 M3 Selector Joint Install.
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- Опубліковано 20 лют 2022
- Well at this point it is safe to say I have eliminated almost all possibilities as to why the shift linkage is so sloppy. Everything is pointing towards transmission detent pins. However I am going to try and make the shifting a little tighter with a short shifter soon! Stay tuned for more E36 M3 content,
𝙄𝙛 𝙮𝙤𝙪 𝙡𝙞𝙠𝙚𝙙 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙫𝙞𝙙𝙚𝙤 𝙢𝙖𝙠𝙚 𝙨𝙪𝙧𝙚 𝙩𝙤 𝙡𝙞𝙠𝙚 𝙖𝙣𝙙 𝙨𝙪𝙗𝙨𝙘𝙧𝙞𝙗𝙚!
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𝙄𝙣𝙨𝙩𝙖𝙜𝙧𝙖𝙢 - e36tyler?h... - Авто та транспорт
that 4.5mm allen tip is huge - kinda dreading doing all this when i install my shifter/DSSR so i think you probably just saved me like an hour of frustration
Happy to hear that, definitely use that Allen as a guide, it will for sure be much easier that way. Good luck!
@@E36tyler stuck doing mine rn smh, Allan helped but still fucking roughhhh
Yeah it’s not fun with everything in the way, good luck!
Gonna replace this when i do my clutch!
Thanks for posting this, eager to see if you’re able to fix the slop since I. Have the same problem
We will see! Hoping a short shifter and DSSR make it tighter!
If you have slop in gears after doing selector rod joint and dssr. Problem is in the detent pins. Not in the shifter assembly 100%.
So I took the foam out on mine tbh I feel like it shouldn't matter because the pin locks it in place, idk why the foam is there but it was 10x easier to install without it and car feels better due to other shifter bushings i installed as well
The side-to-side slop could be due to the precision fit of the dowel pin and the hole it fits in on the shift selector joint. I recommend to test fit the dowel pin on a bench before trying to install it. Since you had 2 new joints, your dowel could be worn. It’s a $2 part from FCPeuro.
I know this well because I fixed it on my 73 2002tii with the gearbox removed. The same selector joint and dowel is used on basically all manual bmw’s.
A properly tight dowel pin usually requires it to be tapped in (or squeezed in w/ pliers). That’s how tight it can be.
If that isn’t the issue then it could be the bushings at the bottom of the shift lever. That was the main cause of my 1.8” side-to-side play on my e90.
To know for sure, try moving all the separate parts and seeing where the movement does not translate to the movement of the adjacent part.
Also, the front-to-back motion of that selector rod joint is the shifter moving front-to-back like when shifting between 3rd and 4th gear. The small rotation of that joint, hence importance of dowel pin play, corresponds to the left-to-right movement of the shift knob.
My play is the pin is actually loose in the hole
I saw slop and I clicked.......not what I was expecting tho
My guess is that the foam just reduces vibration/rattle and a little bit of wear due to the vibration. It is definitely possible to get a tight shifter w/o the foam.
The URO brand, less expensive option, shift selector rod joint foam is too thick and firm (what she said?). I ended up ordering the BMW foam $5 and dowel pin $2. I then had to remove the anodize coating from the inner diameter of the 2 holes in order for the dowel to fit properly. A very snug fit. The BMW joint is more expensive but it comes with the proper foam and the hole diameters are most likely going to fit a new dowel pin nicely
11 months later this comment saved me so much time, thank you.
@@kasrabahmanyar1193 really glad it helped! Which combination/brand of rod-joint, foam and/or dowel pin did you end up installing?
@@johnnypolex hey, not sure if you’ll still find this relevant, but as you mentioned the URO part had problems. the foam was too stiff and pin wouldnt fit.
i ended up just reusing the original bmw u-joint with no foam. I tried putting the foam from the new URO joint into the original bmw joint but it was too stiff. also i didnt see the point of drilling the new joint to fit the pin because the old one was still good since only the foam wears out, not the metal.
if i do that again im just stuffing some random foam in there instead of getting the whole u-joint.
@@johnnypolex i thought i was crazy about the uro part being crap and i was doing something wrong myself, so i appreciate your comment.
@@kasrabahmanyar1193 thanks for confirming the URO foam issues. I’ve actually seen the metal holes oval out, causing play in the pin, and shifter. I had to get a new u-joint and pin for my 73’ 2002tii which uses the same u-joint
Did you ever get the slop out? Did the SSK help?
It’s just the nature of my transmission’s age. 215k ZF with original detent pins. There’s nothing else I can do to tighten it up unless I do the detents on it, it’s definitely much tighter than it was!
i tried this in the driveway. i didnt drop the exhaust cuz my shits too rusty. instead i unbolted the tranny crossmember and wedged wood between the tranny tunnel and driveshaft. i managed to get the new selector joint in with some persuasion and a little trimming. absolutely no slop in my set up. pmc short throw, dssr, new joint and contour solid tranny mounts. this job takes an eternity and def not for the faint of heart
Good work🫵🏼🤝
get a dssr selector rod
get a DSSR with the short shifter.
Working on it!
You should have bought only the foam for 5$.
Done do done lo
What wheels specs?
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