Hi I'm a structural engineer in the UK. You can see when the flashing is taken away that there is a concrete lintel for the inner leaf of masonry, which is the loadbearing one. The outer leaf would have been supported by the timber window frame back in the old days, and then when UPVC windows came in , they provide no support so a further external lintel is needed. Great video - I learned a lot thanks 👍👍
I dont know what buildings you have been looking at but they have used conc boot lintel and tray lintel like in the NE we used Birtley trays and later catnics the last time I saw unsupported outer leaf over door n window openings was work from the 1920s and 30s, and it was against all building regs since Parker Morris standards after the 2nd world war .😎💕🖖
@@kevinscollan8293 Hi Kevin. Lots of buildings like this with unsupported outer leaf, even 1960s. Basically they were designed for the windows to support the outer leaf.
Completely wrong minimum code in usa requires a lintel even if this structure used bricks as headers every 7 courses the weight of the bricks alone can bind windows crack the glass and compromise the structure if the wood ever rotted. Lintel's are code almost every country in the world!
I was one of the brickies who built over the frames without catnics. We asked for the catnics but the builders, said no, because the engineers gave this design the OK. We knew it was going to give trouble when the wooden window framed started to perish. Many brickies, like the ones in my gang, just walked away after a few pairs of houses because not only did the builder skimp on the proper material they also skimped on our money.. Most of this started in the early 70s but I recall wimpy still doing this in the early 90s. Cheap move but again, please do not blame the brickies.
Definitely not the brickies fault , it’s the tight fisted narrow minded developers fault . Cut costs now and let the hone owners worry about it down the line when any warranties have run out 🙄🧱👍🏽
great work again if only all builders were like you mind you there might not be any work for you then but i know there will always be work for quality worker
Nice video! Recently I found out the same problem on the first floor where there is no much headroom for brickwork due to the layout of the roof. The windows are shaking like a leaf no support above them, rooms overtaken by damp all around the revels, absolutely disaster. Being moving about 4 tons of plastering sand to deal with it but the main problem are those missing lintels. Many thanks.
Prefer through wall flamings to have drip edge with a hem. Also prefer large weeps above the through wall flashing to let water that enters the wall cavity a way out. VERY nice lay up and pointing method.
So the old flashing was lead, and the new one is some sort of plastic material? Thanks for the video, I stumbled on it by accident, but a family member recently had a similar issue on their house as he lintel was rusted severely and required replacing as it begun to sag and a few mortar gaps between bricks began to crack. This helped me understand the layout around windows, thanks
I’ve seen a lot of house like this think they might be post war where the bricks are just bedded onto the window frame. We install a thing called hellibar with a strong grout pushed into the joint to act as a lintel (not sure if you’ve heard of it) again don’t know what good it does but the inspectors seem to like them. Keep up the good work lads just recently subscribed and got to say I’m very impressed by the work ethic of you both ✌🏼
Yo Steve! Nice work good sir! It's always nice to watch someone that takes due pride in their work. Suggest you get a mortar gun (like a calking gun but for mortar - or a power version). Saves a LOT of time and effort pointing. They are a few pounds, but well worth it. Say hi to Alex for us! Cheers from your friend in Texas!
From the USA. I have to agree with Krtek 6. From the appearance and the ease of handling/installation of the new "lintel" it doesn't appear to be much different in strength/size/weight from the one being replaced. A repair in the US would us either 3/8" or 5/16" primed 4 inch by 4 inch angle iron utilizing threaded rods/nuts drilled and epoxied into the existing masonary as a lintel.
The outer leaf of a cavity wall is non - load bearing (it serves largely to protect the inner leaf against moisture and temperature variations). The load supported is only the triangle of brickwork above the opening. In the video we can see that there is no lintel only a (lead) cavity tray. The tray is intended to throw any water that gets into the cavity against the outer leaf and protect the window or door below from moisture build up. The tray is non - structural and will not support the brickwork over an opening of this size. As lead is malleable it will move with time, hence the cracking above.
My mum and dad's old railway house didn't have any lintels in when they bought it so my dad put some in, their next door neighbours house all the bricks are cracked above every window That thin trowel looks a good idea, I just bought a set of them (6,8,10,12mm) for £14 of amazon.
Hi Steve and Alex, Great video good to see this type of work being rectified, I noticed that the vent stack is only 300mm above the window normally if the stack is within 3 meters of a window it should be 900mm above the window. I know this is not down to you guy's but just something I noticed.
It looks like there is another one to do next door across the fence that was probably built by the same contractor. Just keep following him around and he will keep you busy.
Lovely mate we tip tho see that small settlement crack be better for these to have 25mm ground back then a 6mm spiral helix bar inserted 600mm either side crack with resin then pointed in stich then normal every 300mm if big vertical cracks. Awesome workmanship as always steve buddy. 🤟🤟
@@martin2466 Yeah mate shouldn’t be anymore that’s 25-35mm into the Morar bed and some resin place bar in them but more resin let 5-10mins then repoint back up.
You look like Charlie Collison with the tool's on the hip, ( Great Time saving idea) All you need now are the tattoos and a Blonde Supermodel to point up your brick work 🤣😂🤣 what do you think of the Tuck pointer
Great job and video. Just wondering how this repair method compares to using helical bars? Save the trouble of removing the bricks or was the sagging too far gone to save them?
To be honest it's not shocking and very common ,the original windows were load bearing and didn't need a lintol ,what is shocking is cowboy window fitters have been going around the country replacing these windows without installing load bearing windows or lintols.Window fitting isn't a trade they wouldnt have a clue yet we are the ones that have to have a CSCS Card 😁 Nice job 👌
I had a bungalow, every window was missing a lintel every one had bricks sagging onto the centre of the window, then I found the whole estate was the same. Must have been a steel shortage when built lol.
Lovely job👍👍👍. How weard did that cement mixer look with the camera on the mixer.bet that's what it would look like if you climb in on lol I need to see that again👍👍👍
Job well done! I see the house has got more issues. Drainagepipes for wastewater through the wall on the outside of the house. Isnt that going to freeze in wintertime?
Drains shouldn't have any water standing in them anyway so nothing that could freeze. I'm still not entirely sure I'd want to try this system in a place with properly cold winters but on the British Isles it seems to work just fine.
@@Ragnar8504 Some decades back, I had to use hot water to melt ice freezing in a long external drainpipe from a bath (even though it was hot water draining away). We haven't had such cold weather in recent years. I laugh at people who say there's no global warming!
Ere Steve what are my options for lintels on a single storey cavity wall extension? Can I just put two skins of concrete ones in and insulate. Or the same with metal ones like you've used here. Or do I have to use cavity tray lintels?
Really don't see why they went through the effort of putting the lead tray in without the litntle 🤔 Brilliant work mate! And least you were able to get some fuel money from that lead 💪💪👍
My Dad needs a lintel replacing because the previous home owner smashed the double doors out and replaced them with bigger sliding doors, obviously it wouldn't fit so they've just smashed the brwk/bwk back to accommodate the doors. So now the lintel is only holding on about 30-45mm on each side. I've never worked with acrows/strongboys before. I'd be comfortable doing it if it was an older build with those L shaped lintels like you replace, but unfortunately it's a catnic lintel and I don't dare mess with it. Have you got any videos with those kind of lintels?
This doesn't look like an old building. Was it a standard practice back then not to put a lintel in or just laziness? Great job mate and a decent music 😅
Why is the acroprop removed while mortar still wet is it not best to wait for the mortar to dry so that the brickwork can act under compresion again, if wet would there not be a likelyhood that the same crack will develop as this is the weakest part of the building until dry?
Have you heard of acrow strongboys? They offer far more support to the above brickwork and get the acrow out of the way a little as opposed to holding the brickwork on the very edge of the head plate
Hamilton Ontario Canada two different 20 story building they each had an end wall completely bricked no lintels eventually the two sides sheared off one day nobody was killed quiet the bang..
A good mason will never disturb a brick after it is laid in the bed course without removing it entirely and putting in a new bed. Otherwise the brick will not bond.
My house is 1910 it still has lintel arches outside regardless to if there is a wooden sash window there or not i had all of mine replaced with UPVC no lintel needed. Only downside is they used wooden lintels on the inner leaf which seem to be in good condition but are prone to rotting sooner or later.
@@SteveAndAlexBuild What i do in a similar circumstance is either take more brick out either side to give more room so you can curl up the ends or cut the tray on an outward taper and still curl the ends up, last thing you want is water shooting off the end, that will cause damp on the inside of the window reveals... more so because them brick are porous being concrete and prolonged rain will penetrate water more than you think
Generally if you can't insert the tray into the whole of the inner leaf you would face fix the tray. It's sealed to the inner face with a thick double sided tape and mechanically fixed with a plastic hammer fixings through a strap. It's a standard Ruberoid and Visqueen method/ system. Turning up the ends of a tray don't actually comply with the British Standards which states preformed stop ends adhered to the tray should be used. It's all these little things that add cost though.
@@SteveAndAlexBuild There must be loads of houses up and down the country that used to have wooden window frames with no lintels and had flimsy UPVC replacement windows fitted without checking. You need to start a lintel replacement company there would be a job for life. You could start with my daughter's house built in the 60's as I know it would be done properly. Shame you are too far away.
I don't see what stops water from driping on top of the window with that space you showed ..to me that flashing you bent should have droped over the the outer top face of the window
Where did you serve ya time cos I reckon yer a dilutey. Haha just kidding, nice job bruv its an awkward job stemming all that muck into that top bed joint.😎💕🖖
I say it this L shape roof panel and rubber is not need at all. This sheet used it not have any structural strength. And it why are you expect it rains from within inside between walls that you would use this rubber to collect water ? :) I would put strong T shape metal piece upside down and make a groove along the center of the bricks with angle grinder so it brick will sit on strong metal support. It after first layer complete I would put insulation back together and finish another bricks. When It all bricks cured there will be an air gap between window and that T shape metal piece I would fill this gap with foam and finish gap with rubber window sealant so it hide the foam work.
Hi I'm a structural engineer in the UK. You can see when the flashing is taken away that there is a concrete lintel for the inner leaf of masonry, which is the loadbearing one. The outer leaf would have been supported by the timber window frame back in the old days, and then when UPVC windows came in , they provide no support so a further external lintel is needed. Great video - I learned a lot thanks 👍👍
Perfectly put Robin , spot on .
Thanks very much 👌🏼🧱👍🏽
I dont know what buildings you have been looking at but they have used conc boot lintel and tray lintel like in the NE we used Birtley trays and later catnics the last time I saw unsupported outer leaf over door n window openings was work from the 1920s and 30s, and it was against all building regs since Parker Morris standards after the 2nd world war .😎💕🖖
@@kevinscollan8293 🧱👍🏽
@@kevinscollan8293 Hi Kevin. Lots of buildings like this with unsupported outer leaf, even 1960s. Basically they were designed for the windows to support the outer leaf.
Completely wrong minimum code in usa requires a lintel even if this structure used bricks as headers every 7 courses the weight of the bricks alone can bind windows crack the glass and compromise the structure if the wood ever rotted. Lintel's are code almost every country in the world!
One of the only videos I ever seen on youtube with someone doing everything correctly.
And trust me Im good at finding mistakes in bricklaying.
Cheers buddy 😁👍🏽🧱
I was one of the brickies who built over the frames without catnics. We asked for the catnics but the builders, said no, because the engineers gave this design the OK. We knew it was going to give trouble when the wooden window framed started to perish. Many brickies, like the ones in my gang, just walked away after a few pairs of houses because not only did the builder skimp on the proper material they also skimped on our money..
Most of this started in the early 70s but I recall wimpy still doing this in the early 90s. Cheap move but again, please do not blame the brickies.
Definitely not the brickies fault , it’s the tight fisted narrow minded developers fault .
Cut costs now and let the hone owners worry about it down the line when any warranties have run out 🙄🧱👍🏽
I'd hire you for this kind of work, no questions asked.
Your quality & pride of work is exemplary.
Cheers Larry 🤜🏽🤛🏽🧱👍🏽
And definitely no lentils, too!
So nice to see the professional pride put into your work. Exemplary!
Thanks buddy 🧱👍🏽
3:50 the cup holder ha ha. Love it.
😏🧱👍🏽
great work again if only all builders were like you mind you there might not be any work for you then but i know there will always be work for quality worker
Cheers Eddie much appreciated 🙏🏽🧱👍🏽
Nice video! Recently I found out the same problem on the first floor where there is no much headroom for brickwork due to the layout of the roof. The windows are shaking like a leaf no support above them, rooms overtaken by damp all around the revels, absolutely disaster. Being moving about 4 tons of plastering sand to deal with it but the main problem are those missing lintels. Many thanks.
Best of luck 👍🏽🧱
Prefer through wall flamings to have drip edge with a hem. Also prefer large weeps above the through wall flashing to let water that enters the wall cavity a way out. VERY nice lay up and pointing method.
Cheers Max 🧱👍🏽😁
Yes I don't think they provided it I wonder 🤔
So the old flashing was lead, and the new one is some sort of plastic material? Thanks for the video, I stumbled on it by accident, but a family member recently had a similar issue on their house as he lintel was rusted severely and required replacing as it begun to sag and a few mortar gaps between bricks began to crack. This helped me understand the layout around windows, thanks
Thanks for watching 🧱👍🏽
What a neat job, I wish I could do brickwork as neat as that
Give it a try then practice 😉🧱👍🏼
@@SteveAndAlexBuild Have you watched my UA-cam channel! I'm more at home with a Lathe!
@@Hambini 😆🧱👍🏽
A proper tradesman getting the job done 👏👏👌
Thanks Brian 🧱👍🏽
I’ve seen a lot of house like this think they might be post war where the bricks are just bedded onto the window frame. We install a thing called hellibar with a strong grout pushed into the joint to act as a lintel (not sure if you’ve heard of it) again don’t know what good it does but the inspectors seem to like them. Keep up the good work lads just recently subscribed and got to say I’m very impressed by the work ethic of you both ✌🏼
Thanks very much Ricky and welcome to the channel 😁🤜🏽🤛🏽🧱👍🏽
With the quality of work you and your lad turn out you'll never be short of work, another quality video
Cheers Paul 🧱👍🏽
Yo Steve! Nice work good sir! It's always nice to watch someone that takes due pride in their work. Suggest you get a mortar gun (like a calking gun but for mortar - or a power version). Saves a LOT of time and effort pointing. They are a few pounds, but well worth it. Say hi to Alex for us! Cheers from your friend in Texas!
Thanks for the tips buddy , Alex says hi back 🤜🏽🤛🏽🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild they love to tell you yer doing it wrong dont they 😎💕🖖
@@kevinscollan8293 na this is our buddy in Texas .
All the trolls are hone grown 😆🧱👍🏽
All that and camera staging too. 👍⭐⭐⭐⭐
😉😁🧱👍🏽
Another problem solved with the lintels top tips great workmanship Steve 👏
Cheers John 🧱👍🏽
From the USA. I have to agree with Krtek 6. From the appearance and the ease of handling/installation of the new "lintel" it doesn't appear to be much different in strength/size/weight from the one being replaced. A repair in the US would us either 3/8" or 5/16" primed 4 inch by 4 inch angle iron utilizing threaded rods/nuts drilled and epoxied into the existing masonary as a lintel.
There was no lintel it was lead
The outer leaf of a cavity wall is non - load bearing (it serves largely to protect the inner leaf against moisture and temperature variations). The load supported is only the triangle of brickwork above the opening. In the video we can see that there is no lintel only a (lead) cavity tray. The tray is intended to throw any water that gets into the cavity against the outer leaf and protect the window or door below from moisture build up. The tray is non - structural and will not support the brickwork over an opening of this size. As lead is malleable it will move with time, hence the cracking above.
My mum and dad's old railway house didn't have any lintels in when they bought it so my dad put some in, their next door neighbours house all the bricks are cracked above every window
That thin trowel looks a good idea, I just bought a set of them (6,8,10,12mm) for £14 of amazon.
Very handy mate 👌🏼🧱👍🏽
Mixer cam, YES👊 No lintol, WTF🤯 Great job, as always😎
😆🤜🏽🤛🏽🧱👍🏽
Hi Steve and Alex,
Great video good to see this type of work being rectified, I noticed that the vent stack is only 300mm above the window normally if the stack is within 3 meters of a window it should be 900mm above the window. I know this is not down to you guy's but just something I noticed.
Probably the same people who put the awful lead trays in 🙄🧱👍🏽
Great work and very clear description .
Thanks pal 👍🏽🧱
It looks like there is another one to do next door across the fence that was probably built by the same contractor. Just keep following him around and he will keep you busy.
Done loads on this estate, many more to do 🧱👍🏽😬
😂😂😂
Love watching skilled tradies doing a job proper
Thanks very much 🧱👍🏽
Thanks for sharing your expertise!
No probs Chris 🧱👍🏽
Nice brickie job hey thumbs 👍 up 🇺🇸
Thanks roger 🧱👍🏽
I've said it b4 and say it again, u guys do great work and make great videos! Keep it up
Thanks buddy 🤜🏽🤛🏽👍🏽🧱
Well done - good attention to detail 👍
Cheers Paul 🧱👍🏽
Old timber frames where structural unlike pvc 👍🏻
They were 👍🏽🧱
You do excellent work and clearly take pride in it - rightly so.😀👍
Cheers Norman 🧱👍🏽
Lovely mate we tip tho see that small settlement crack be better for these to have 25mm ground back then a 6mm spiral helix bar inserted 600mm either side crack with resin then pointed in stich then normal every 300mm if big vertical cracks. Awesome workmanship as always steve buddy. 🤟🤟
@@martin2466
Yeah mate shouldn’t be anymore that’s 25-35mm into the Morar bed and some resin place bar in them but more resin let 5-10mins then repoint back up.
🧱👍🏽 cheers Lee
@@SteveAndAlexBuild
Just giving more work with the grinder not that you need as pretty damm good with it. Take care buddy.
@@lmilne4859 you too Lee 🤜🏻🤛🏻🧱👍🏼
Another cracking vid those bricks can hide a lot of bad stuff great job bet you can butter your toast well.👍👍👍😎😎😎
Thanks pal , yep 🍞😉🧱👍🏽
Great camera work with the mixer, that's how my stomach feels After a Friday night out 🤢
You look like Charlie Collison with the tool's on the hip, ( Great Time saving idea) All you need now are the tattoos and a Blonde Supermodel to point up your brick work 🤣😂🤣 what do you think of the Tuck pointer
Tasty work
@@georgeomalley6066 yeah got the belt idea off Charlie.
Tuck pointer is a must have for every bricky 👌🏼🧱👍🏽
Great job and video. Just wondering how this repair method compares to using helical bars? Save the trouble of removing the bricks or was the sagging too far gone to save them?
No mate windows need lintels 🧱👍🏽
Love how you answer everyone mate,well done from Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks buddy , hello over in oz 🧱👍🏽
We in Holland have a machine Hilti to chap out morther Not whit the hammer 😅 but Nice video keep up the good work 💪🏼🔥
🧱👍🏽
Very useful information, thank you
Glad it was helpful 👍🏽🧱
To be honest it's not shocking and very common ,the original windows were load bearing and didn't need a lintol ,what is shocking is cowboy window fitters have been going around the country replacing these windows without installing load bearing windows or lintols.Window fitting isn't a trade they wouldnt have a clue yet we are the ones that have to have a CSCS Card 😁 Nice job 👌
Very true Andy . We do loads of these .
They sometimes take 1 course out and bang an unpainted angle iron in a wreck the original cavity tray 🙄🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild 👍
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 👍🏽
Nice to see such a neat job Ste. Can I ask what overlap you need each end for a cavity lintel? I'm guessing 15-30cm.
Thanks Barry. 150 mm 👍🏽🧱
Great video lads and looks a fiddly job that repairing others dodgy work!
Thanks pal , yep not many brickies will do it 🧱👍🏽
I had a bungalow, every window was missing a lintel every one had bricks sagging onto the centre of the window, then I found the whole estate was the same. Must have been a steel shortage when built lol.
When they were built they would have had load bearing timber windows 🪟. The problems start when they are replaced 🧱👍🏽
I can be the only one hearing absolutely shocking in a Welsh accent from those annoying new home quality videos. 😂
Great work as always. 👍🙂
Exactly, I had to use that title 😆🧱👍🏽
Lovely job👍👍👍. How weard did that cement mixer look with the camera on the mixer.bet that's what it would look like if you climb in on lol I need to see that again👍👍👍
Cheers Mark . I put it on Instagram too and messed with a few heads 😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫🤣🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild 😂😂Nice. I need to keep checking my Instagram don't go on it enough lol👍👍👍
@@markhep . 😁🧱👍🏽
Job well done! I see the house has got more issues. Drainagepipes for wastewater through the wall on the outside of the house. Isnt that going to freeze in wintertime?
No that’s standard for drainage 🧱👍🏽
Drains shouldn't have any water standing in them anyway so nothing that could freeze. I'm still not entirely sure I'd want to try this system in a place with properly cold winters but on the British Isles it seems to work just fine.
@@Ragnar8504 👍🏽🧱
@@Ragnar8504 Some decades back, I had to use hot water to melt ice freezing in a long external drainpipe from a bath (even though it was hot water draining away). We haven't had such cold weather in recent years. I laugh at people who say there's no global warming!
Ere Steve what are my options for lintels on a single storey cavity wall extension?
Can I just put two skins of concrete ones in and insulate. Or the same with metal ones like you've used here. Or do I have to use cavity tray lintels?
Best to check with building control but whatever you use you will need cavity trays 🧱👍🏼
Ok thanks boss
@@bigmik3566 good luck with your extension 👍🏽🧱
Thanks. I need all the luck possible lol
@@bigmik3566 😂🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼🧱👍🏼
14:39 is it ok to remove the wall support before the mortar has set?
Not always , it’s down to experience to know when it’s ok 🧱👍🏽
Them steel L plates are standard on timber frame new build in the UK , for those who are not getting it
🧱👍🏽😁
Excelente trabajo 👏 👍 💪 👌
🙏🏽😁🧱👍🏽👌🏼
Did you not put weep vents in with your cavity tray on lintel course
Yep
Really don't see why they went through the effort of putting the lead tray in without the litntle 🤔
Brilliant work mate! And least you were able to get some fuel money from that lead 💪💪👍
Yeah mate , very puzzling .
😉🧱👍🏽
I’ve done a fair few of them Steve and never see a lead tray over a window . Have you seen that before ?
Never mate , very strange . At least we could weigh them in 😆🧱👍🏽
My Dad needs a lintel replacing because the previous home owner smashed the double doors out and replaced them with bigger sliding doors, obviously it wouldn't fit so they've just smashed the brwk/bwk back to accommodate the doors. So now the lintel is only holding on about 30-45mm on each side. I've never worked with acrows/strongboys before. I'd be comfortable doing it if it was an older build with those L shaped lintels like you replace, but unfortunately it's a catnic lintel and I don't dare mess with it. Have you got any videos with those kind of lintels?
That is definitely not a diy job . make sure you get a good builder to do it properly for you
good luck 🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild I am a bricklayer by trade but I’ve only ever done new builds…
@@RiddlePC . Right , best bet is google it or search on UA-cam .
It can be done with strong boys on each side 🧱👍🏽
Good job as usual Steve but I think that lintels are overrated. Just think how much money we could save if we built houses without them.
😳🧱👍🏽
This doesn't look like an old building. Was it a standard practice back then not to put a lintel in or just laziness? Great job mate and a decent music 😅
Thanks pal it was standard practice 😵💫🧱👍🏽
Why is the acroprop removed while mortar still wet is it not best to wait for the mortar to dry so that the brickwork can act under compresion again, if wet would there not be a likelyhood that the same crack will develop as this is the weakest part of the building until dry?
On certain bricks yes but these go off fast it’s ok to remove them . 🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild many thanks for the response.
@jeanvanderberg4021 no problem 🧱👍🏽
Top man for the job 💪👍👌
Cheers Malc 🧱👍🏽
Have you heard of acrow strongboys? They offer far more support to the above brickwork and get the acrow out of the way a little as opposed to holding the brickwork on the very edge of the head plate
Yes 👍🏽
Great job Steve
Iv just come across you looking for something else, iv subscribed now 👍👍👍👍
Nice one , glad you found us even if it was by accident 😆🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild
lol 😂👍
🤜🏽🤛🏽
great work great tunes
Thanks pal 😉🧱👍🏽
That is shocking Steve there is a lot of dodgy people around that don’t no wat they are doin well done for fixing it
Cheers Ben 🧱👍🏽
great video love your work
Thanks pal 😁🧱👍🏽
Fish tail tie irons were used when both leaves were brought up together and laid on so were not dangerous then
👍🏽🧱
Great work Steve as always I highly recommend you get your self a morta gun saves loads of time pointing when doing bits like that 👍
🧱👍🏽
Top job,! 👏👏👏🇬🇧
Cheers buddy 🧱👍🏽
Steve is the scaffolding tied into the wall while you are working on it ?
No mate it’s braced 🧱👍🏽
Hamilton Ontario Canada two different 20 story building they each had an end wall completely bricked no lintels eventually the two sides sheared off one day nobody was killed quiet the bang..
🤯😳.. scary 👍🏽🧱
A good mason will never disturb a brick after it is laid in the bed course without removing it entirely and putting in a new bed. Otherwise the brick will not bond.
🧱👍🏽
My house is 1910 it still has lintel arches outside regardless to if there is a wooden sash window there or not i had all of mine replaced with UPVC no lintel needed. Only downside is they used wooden lintels on the inner leaf which seem to be in good condition but are prone to rotting sooner or later.
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Now that’s a pro
Cheers Buddy 🧱👍🏽
did you not curl up the ends of the tray and install weep vents?
The tray wasn’t curled up at one end due to room . Vents in every 2 brick 👍🏽🧱
@@SteveAndAlexBuild What i do in a similar circumstance is either take more brick out either side to give more room so you can curl up the ends or cut the tray on an outward taper and still curl the ends up, last thing you want is water shooting off the end, that will cause damp on the inside of the window reveals... more so because them brick are porous being concrete and prolonged rain will penetrate water more than you think
@@colinbooth1974 although the bricks are concrete they are like mini padstones , very dense and not letting any water in 🧱👍🏽
Great work Steve
Thanks pal 🧱👍🏽
Was that a lintel or just a piece of flashing? Over here, lintels are painted with a red rust proofing.
We put a galvanised lintel in 👍🏽🧱
+John D lintel pal , galvanised, far superior to paint 🧱👍🏽💪🏼
+John D A galvanised lintel pal 🧱👍🏽
+John D It’s a galvanised lintel 🧱👍🏽
2.31 is that you getting one ready for the toilet!
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What area of Lancs do you cover i need a lintel replacing in L30
Where is l30 ? 🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild I'm just off the M58 switch island junction
@fingerpicker2 . Yes that’s near enough.
E mail address in video description 🧱👍🏽
Thanks I'll take some photos and email you tomorrow
@fingerpicker2 🧱👍🏽
What is the cost of installing a new lintel.
All jobs are different mate 🧱👍🏽
I prefer to fill the last bed with slate but each to their own.
I never use slate over a lintel as the bed isn’t full and it will bend the lintel 🧱👍🏽
Lead trays damaged by the window renewal company, too may lintel failures due to window companies not taking enough precautions.
Very true 🧱👍🏽
Would a mortar gun of been better to fill the tray to the wall instead of mastic?
No mortar shrinks and cracks where silicone actually sticks and flex’s 🧱👍🏽
Generally if you can't insert the tray into the whole of the inner leaf you would face fix the tray. It's sealed to the inner face with a thick double sided tape and mechanically fixed with a plastic hammer fixings through a strap. It's a standard Ruberoid and Visqueen method/ system. Turning up the ends of a tray don't actually comply with the British Standards which states preformed stop ends adhered to the tray should be used. It's all these little things that add cost though.
@@kf0017 👍🏽🧱
Frog down or frog up 🐸
Frog up ⬆️ 🧱👍🏽
Yes thought so, looked like the house was built frog down
@@mrt227zxr . Yeah that had weird square slots in 🙄🧱👍🏽
Os mestres da obra🧱🧱🧱🏘🏘🏘🏚🏚🏚
🤜🏽🤛🏽🧱👍🏽😁
I bet the window filter cut that back when they put in the new window
Yeah it was full of grinder cuts 🙄🧱👍🏽
tidy work but why do you not stop end your cavity tray to stop ingress at the sides . only a suggestion
Didn’t have room 🙄🧱👍🏽
why did you use a pipe jointer the original was weatherd pointing
The dodgy repair was weather struck , the house was bar jointed 🧱👍🏽
What if the sagging is under the window?
Then we fix that too 🧱👍🏽
Steve, you need a Welsh accent to say "absolutely shocking", lol.
😏. Had to use that in the title 😁🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild There must be loads of houses up and down the country that used to have wooden window frames with no lintels and had flimsy UPVC replacement windows fitted without checking. You need to start a lintel replacement company there would be a job for life. You could start with my daughter's house built in the 60's as I know it would be done properly. Shame you are too far away.
@@philpearson1714 . Yes Phil we do get a lot of lintel jobs 👍🏽🧱
Hi Steve, where are you based mate.
We are in Lancashire pal 🧱👍🏽
How often do you post? Seems rarely!
Weekly mate 🧱👍🏽
I don't see what stops water from driping on top of the window with that space you showed ..to me that flashing you bent should have droped over the the outer top face of the window
It’s not a flashing it’s a cavity tray . Standard detail over here 🧱👍🏽
I would have motared all the gaps before putting that flashing in
There is no flashing it’s a cavity tray 🧱👍🏽
Where did you serve ya time cos I reckon yer a dilutey. Haha just kidding, nice job bruv its an awkward job stemming all that muck into that top bed joint.😎💕🖖
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its easy to criticise another tradesman, but what you are showing us here is truly rubbish. Great to watch a true master of his trade. Regards
Thanks Evan 🧱👍🏽
No eneveloping D.PC ?
No mate
Get them poor seats cover up as they will get trashed in a builders van...LOl
They are £100 seat covers pal . My mate I bought the van off looked after it 👌🏼😁🧱👍🏽
This so typical in England. No one gives an eff. Muddling here and there and everywhere. A mess everywhere you look.
It’s not that bad 😳😆🧱👍🏽
Only thing i would do different is perforate my skull on the corner of the acro
Been there done that 🤕😂😂🧱👍🏽
I say it this L shape roof panel and rubber is not need at all. This sheet used it not have any structural strength. And it why are you expect it rains from within inside between walls that you would use this rubber to collect water ? :) I would put strong T shape metal piece upside down and make a groove along the center of the bricks with angle grinder so it brick will sit on strong metal support. It after first layer complete I would put insulation back together and finish another bricks. When It all bricks cured there will be an air gap between window and that T shape metal piece I would fill this gap with foam and finish gap with rubber window sealant so it hide the foam work.
Thanks for the tip , you are obviously not an English bricklayer 🙄🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild 🙄😂😂😂. Some crazy comments . hope they aint builders. 🤠
@@thunder131Yep ! 🙄😆😆🧱👍🏽
Why the use of different couloured bricks?
Because they were discontinued a long time ago
Like the ones you used on the small extension you recently posted
They are ideal 🧱👍🏼
hey you're on the wrong side of your car.
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I'd be finished in weeks if I charged £200 for a scaffold that size 🤢
The prices have gone up since then 🙄🧱👍🏽