Picking one up tomorrow morning to use as a backup to my 111w154 I am going to restore. I like doing Sunbrella type covers so the added stitch length is a blessing. Both machines can handle v207. What I found on the G-bobbin machines is the clearance under the hook plate and the top of the hook is minimal so I had to machine down the thickness of the cover plate to allow the thread to maneuver under between the both. I use a 22-24 needle, v207 upper and a 138 prewound bobbin. No issues at all. If you are running into. Much thicker material could cause a tension issue. Rather than not work with the material you can just remove the tensioner assembly and behind there remove the pin that goes from the back of the machine to the tensioner . That will allow you to work with more height and not break the tension . You will have to either pull thread by hand or just run the machine while pulling your material from under the foot assembly, it’s called “run off” . Nice video. Nice machine . Trying to figure out a color for mine that is also funky !
I have a small shop we run 4 machines ranging from largest to smallest a consew 745, a consew 206 long arm, a consew 206rb-2(my favorite) and a consew 226r-1. The 226 is the same as the 224 but with reverse, it is a good machine, we sew ultra heavy fiberglass fabric with a stainless mesh in it and it handles it well. The only problem I have with it is all parts are not available and the ones that are that are different from the 206 are all of poor quality out of China. We have all machines set up with servo motors with needle position sensors. I’d never go back to a clutch motor. But the old sieko made consews are bulletproof
I just got my hands on a 225, I ran two layers of 5-6oz leather (10-12oz total for those keeping count), and it didn't even stop to ask permission. I'd say medium to medium-heavy duty would apply in regards to leather on this machine. And no it's not a fluke, my grandfather has a 226 that he's been using for leather for over 20 years and it's not had any issues either!
I got a good deal too, a Consew 226, a Singer 99, and a 1958 Morse, $200. I actually have more in the servo motor/ speed reduction pulley set up on the Consew, then what I paid for them
In a future video could you go over how to lock at stitch on a machine without reverse? I'm a long way off from being able to justify a industrial machine but I'm really curious how it's done. Thanks for all your hard work!
I just leave long tails at both ends, pull the top one under and tie the ends together. There are other ways of course. One involves turning the piece around and another is stitching a couple times in the same spot by lifting the foot. Would be happy to learn better technique, of course. Daniel
As for no reverse. One: the chisel point used for leather can and does cut the thread of the existing stitches, so this would negate the reason to use it. I prefer stout square knots with burned ends. Two. If you really need reverse...plunge the needle, lift the foot, turn the work around and sew forward the other way. Just try to be exactly next to the other stitches, not on them. See One above.
Hi, I don't have any experience with the 220, and I don't know where you can get a pan, sorry! EBay might be your best bet. Sorry I don't have an answer for you, good luck, and thanks for watching!
Reversing to lock your stitch has a very dark side to it especially in alterations because if you have to take it apart again it can be a challenge. In a seam that will get hemmed or finished it is probably over kill but I tend to do it anyways 😂😂.
Did you make the timber table??? I love the machine too - I miss Mums Bernina treadle machine which came from Switzerland with a table that I still have. Unfortunately we gave the machine away - huge mistake. Dad put a motor on it (eventually) plus the table had a mechanism where the machine went under the shelf and left the top flat. It also has 5 drawers which all lock with one key. Thanks for sharing I really like your channel. ♥️
This table top is just particle board with a laminate top (came with my other machine). I made the top for my primary machine (there's a video on my channel if you haven't already seen it). I haven't had a Bernina yet, but they seem to be great machines. Thanks so much for being part of the channel!
The Consew 225 is my first industrial. Clyde and I have a challenging relationship. I love that it will go thru 2 to 3 layers of nylon webbing along with 2 to 3 layers of polar fleece and 6mm neoprene in one sandwich! (Not many will go thru neo, sticky.) I was so excited that it did that I didn't notice that there was no reverse. I just got used to turning my work or routing the thread path to overlap on the ends. My issue is what I do requires control, not speed. I am looking into a servo motor, trying to learn which one is best. So far brushless seems the way to go. If anyone has any input I would love to hear it.
If you haven't seen it, I posted a video about putting a cheap servo motor on my other industrial machine. It made a huge difference in controllability. Thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades I did it! Got a Consew servo and love it. I picked this one because it has on of the lowest rpm's. Have made two harness on it and love it, so much easier to control. Thanks for your encouragement and your videos.
Is the flywheel aftermarket? looks beefier than the wheel on my consew 333. I wonder if it would help me to upgrade when running heavier materials. Thanks for the video!
To the best of my knowledge, this is the stock wheel. I failed to mention it in the video, but the way this one is oriented (with the belt outside the larger diameter part of the wheel), it is pretty easy to catch your finger under the belt, which could cause a pretty serious injury. The only example of changing the flywheel I've seen is the Sailrite Ultrafeeds with their Monster Wheel. I don't know if there are other wheels out there for industrials. In theory it might be helpful, but I have no firsthand experience to inform my opinion. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi! A synchronizer or needle positioner allows the needle to always stop in either the up or down position. You can also use the back side of the treadle (pedal) to raise or lower the pedal. I prefer to have mine set to stop needle-down. They are a huge boost to speed and efficiency, since you rarely have to touch the hand wheel. Making sharp turns where you pivot around the needle is much faster and more precise; you stop sewing, the needle is perfectly positioned to hold the fabric in place but to not skip a stitch when you start sewing again. Raise the foot with the knee lever, using both hands to control the material, make your turn, drop the foot and start sewing again. This video explains it if you'd like to see a bit more - ua-cam.com/video/skSfBXXHTow/v-deo.html Thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thank you for the helpful info. I have a feeling I'm going to be going down the rabbit hole on industrial walking foot machines. Since I've bought my first one I'm already scouring craigslist and thrift stores looking for a cylinder arm walking foot or another flat table unison feed. Have u thought of recording a vid on what key things to look for, and check, when buying a walking foot before taking home lemon? I have not seen a vid like this posted even from A. Dyer. Maybe one has to own one for a while and then they would be in a better position and would have the knowledge necessary on what to look out for?
ok, I hope I am not alone in this but I like the way it sounds when it is sewing!! - that no reverse thingy... hmmm, my "new" Singer will not reverse unless you are already sewing forward (was very hard to get use to) and if I had known before I bought the machine that would have been a deal breaker for me
You're not alone, I love the sound too! Not having reverse is inconvenient and takes more time, although in some cases that could be a good thing (like working with leather, where a misplaced stitch hole is there forever). I probably wouldn't want this as my one-and-only machine, but as a backup and for the occasional job needing a really long stitch length, it should fit in nicely. What kind of Singer do you have? I've never heard of your reverse situation.
@@thejasonofalltrades singer confidence 7640 - I waited till it went on sale at walmart about 2 years ago - my first embroidery machine (most likely my last lol)
How do you finish a stitch/seam on the 225 if you can't reverse? Like you, I found a deal on this unit for $100, but used to reverse on my domestic Singer.
Hi, I am not familiar with that model, and I don't have one to make a video with, sadly. From what I've seen online, it looks like a variant of the Singer 16-188. Check out this video from Alexander Dyer, it's not the exact machine but might be close enough to help you out. ua-cam.com/video/eVxm3bVGmig/v-deo.html
You don't need it. You're a typical guy, buying more tools than you need. You have an addiction that is taking machines off the market for those who genuinely need them.
Congratulations! This is the dumbest comment I've received in some time! When I bought this machine, there was a line of people desperately bidding on it, all of them needing it for their businesses in order to feed their families. I stepped in front of all of them, made a lowball offer, and walked away with the machine, laughing at all of the sad people who missed out. Oh wait, that's not what happened. In fact, I watched the ad for the machine for a few weeks, then when it was still available at a reduced price, I went to the dark, leaky warehouse where the machine had sat abandoned and neglected for more than four years. After examining the machine and determining how much work it needed, I gave the owner $80 for it. If I hadn't, it was likely headed for a dumpster. Now the machine has a new life, and one day will probably move on to someone else for them to hopefully use and enjoy. Many of my machines came from thrift stores. Do you know why people donate things to thrift stores? Because they don't want them anymore, and are unsuccessful at selling them (or they aren't worth enough money to bother selling)! As much as I would like sewing to be a popular hobby, and sewing machines to be sought after and valuable, the truth is a very small percentage of people care about sewing or sewing machines, and these machines are plentiful and not worth a lot of money. It is true that I have more machines than I need. I have sold a few, and given away a few, and will certainly do more of both in the future. I've acquired most of my machines for two reasons; I can use them for a video, and/or because they were headed for the trash and I saved them. No one who "genuinely needed them" was there to take them. I appreciate you voicing your opinion, but I humbly suggest that you think a little harder before casually insulting people on the internet by commenting on subjects you clearly know nothing about. Thanks for watching!
And you don't NEED to make idiot comments but you do. Not his fault you didn't buy this machine. You're a typical troll talking about crap you know NOTHING about. You just can't keep your idiocy to yourself and have to share with the world how stupid you are.
Nice J cut and other jump cuts. $80 and it included a horn too, you DID steal it. Good job.
Thanks! That's a nice compliment coming from someone who actually makes GOOD videos :)
Picking one up tomorrow morning to use as a backup to my 111w154 I am going to restore.
I like doing Sunbrella type covers so the added stitch length is a blessing. Both machines can handle v207. What I found on the G-bobbin machines is the clearance under the hook plate and the top of the hook is minimal so I had to machine down the thickness of the cover plate to allow the thread to maneuver under between the both.
I use a 22-24 needle, v207 upper and a 138 prewound bobbin. No issues at all. If you are running into. Much thicker material could cause a tension issue. Rather than not work with the material you can just remove the tensioner assembly and behind there remove the pin that goes from the back of the machine to the tensioner . That will allow you to work with more height and not break the tension . You will have to either pull thread by hand or just run the machine while pulling your material from under the foot assembly, it’s called “run off” .
Nice video. Nice machine . Trying to figure out a color for mine that is also funky !
I have a small shop we run 4 machines ranging from largest to smallest a consew 745, a consew 206 long arm, a consew 206rb-2(my favorite) and a consew 226r-1. The 226 is the same as the 224 but with reverse, it is a good machine, we sew ultra heavy fiberglass fabric with a stainless mesh in it and it handles it well. The only problem I have with it is all parts are not available and the ones that are that are different from the 206 are all of poor quality out of China. We have all machines set up with servo motors with needle position sensors. I’d never go back to a clutch motor. But the old sieko made consews are bulletproof
I have used my 3d printer to make clamps to fit on the balance wheel for the needle positioner.
I just got my hands on a 225, I ran two layers of 5-6oz leather (10-12oz total for those keeping count), and it didn't even stop to ask permission. I'd say medium to medium-heavy duty would apply in regards to leather on this machine.
And no it's not a fluke, my grandfather has a 226 that he's been using for leather for over 20 years and it's not had any issues either!
“It didn’t even stop to ask permission “ 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 OMG!!! I needed that part! Lol
I got a good deal too, a Consew 226, a Singer 99, and a 1958 Morse, $200. I actually have more in the servo motor/ speed reduction pulley set up on the Consew, then what I paid for them
I have the same machine. They are nice and parts are easily found.
Mine is the 226. Yes they are awesome machines. Love mine. It is one hefty machine with very few problems.
I'd love to add a 226 to my collection. Having reverse would definitely be convenient!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for sharing this video .I have one It is a very sturdy one. BLESSINGS.
In a future video could you go over how to lock at stitch on a machine without reverse? I'm a long way off from being able to justify a industrial machine but I'm really curious how it's done.
Thanks for all your hard work!
Hi!
I plan to do this in the near future.
Thank YOU!
I just leave long tails at both ends, pull the top one under and tie the ends together. There are other ways of course. One involves turning the piece around and another is stitching a couple times in the same spot by lifting the foot. Would be happy to learn better technique, of course. Daniel
@@thejasonofalltrades I would like that too. Wrote some ideas in a separate reply but am always happy to see better technique.
ua-cam.com/video/71DPLtqpRds/v-deo.html Alexander Dyer has a good video that covers the topic for machines without reverse.
That sound effect when you turned on the motor had me dying
I'm glad - I'm trying to have a little fun these days :)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
As for no reverse.
One: the chisel point used for leather can and does cut the thread of the existing stitches, so this would negate the reason to use it. I prefer stout square knots with burned ends.
Two. If you really need reverse...plunge the needle, lift the foot, turn the work around and sew forward the other way. Just try to be exactly next to the other stitches, not on them. See One above.
Thanks Jason.
Hey I think one of those would fit in my treadle base! 😂
Do you know where I can get an oil pan for a the CONSEW 220? Is the Juki DL555 oil pan compatible?
Hi,
I don't have any experience with the 220, and I don't know where you can get a pan, sorry! EBay might be your best bet.
Sorry I don't have an answer for you, good luck, and thanks for watching!
Reversing to lock your stitch has a very dark side to it especially in alterations because if you have to take it apart again it can be a challenge. In a seam that will get hemmed or finished it is probably over kill but I tend to do it anyways 😂😂.
Did you make the timber table??? I love the machine too - I miss Mums Bernina treadle machine which came from Switzerland with a table that I still have. Unfortunately we gave the machine away - huge mistake. Dad put a motor on it (eventually) plus the table had a mechanism where the machine went under the shelf and left the top flat. It also has 5 drawers which all lock with one key. Thanks for sharing I really like your channel. ♥️
This table top is just particle board with a laminate top (came with my other machine). I made the top for my primary machine (there's a video on my channel if you haven't already seen it).
I haven't had a Bernina yet, but they seem to be great machines.
Thanks so much for being part of the channel!
The Consew 225 is my first industrial. Clyde and I have a challenging relationship. I love that it will go thru 2 to 3 layers of nylon webbing along with 2 to 3 layers of polar fleece and 6mm neoprene in one sandwich! (Not many will go thru neo, sticky.) I was so excited that it did that I didn't notice that there was no reverse. I just got used to turning my work or routing the thread path to overlap on the ends. My issue is what I do requires control, not speed. I am looking into a servo motor, trying to learn which one is best. So far brushless seems the way to go. If anyone has any input I would love to hear it.
If you haven't seen it, I posted a video about putting a cheap servo motor on my other industrial machine. It made a huge difference in controllability.
Thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades I did it! Got a Consew servo and love it. I picked this one because it has on of the lowest rpm's. Have made two harness on it and love it, so much easier to control. Thanks for your encouragement and your videos.
Is the flywheel aftermarket? looks beefier than the wheel on my consew 333. I wonder if it would help me to upgrade when running heavier materials. Thanks for the video!
To the best of my knowledge, this is the stock wheel. I failed to mention it in the video, but the way this one is oriented (with the belt outside the larger diameter part of the wheel), it is pretty easy to catch your finger under the belt, which could cause a pretty serious injury.
The only example of changing the flywheel I've seen is the Sailrite Ultrafeeds with their Monster Wheel. I don't know if there are other wheels out there for industrials. In theory it might be helpful, but I have no firsthand experience to inform my opinion.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks Jason, that sounds like a serious safety hazard!
Yep 80$ was a good buy even tho it doesn't have reverse. I'd probably buy a 225 over a Thomson knock off they're just to damn noisy
Great deal! What's a synchronizer (what does it do)?
Hi!
A synchronizer or needle positioner allows the needle to always stop in either the up or down position. You can also use the back side of the treadle (pedal) to raise or lower the pedal. I prefer to have mine set to stop needle-down. They are a huge boost to speed and efficiency, since you rarely have to touch the hand wheel. Making sharp turns where you pivot around the needle is much faster and more precise; you stop sewing, the needle is perfectly positioned to hold the fabric in place but to not skip a stitch when you start sewing again. Raise the foot with the knee lever, using both hands to control the material, make your turn, drop the foot and start sewing again.
This video explains it if you'd like to see a bit more - ua-cam.com/video/skSfBXXHTow/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thank you for the helpful info. I have a feeling I'm going to be going down the rabbit hole on industrial walking foot machines. Since I've bought my first one I'm already scouring craigslist and thrift stores looking for a cylinder arm walking foot or another flat table unison feed. Have u thought of recording a vid on what key things to look for, and check, when buying a walking foot before taking home lemon? I have not seen a vid like this posted even from A. Dyer. Maybe one has to own one for a while and then they would be in a better position and would have the knowledge necessary on what to look out for?
ok, I hope I am not alone in this but I like the way it sounds when it is sewing!! - that no reverse thingy... hmmm, my "new" Singer will not reverse unless you are already sewing forward (was very hard to get use to) and if I had known before I bought the machine that would have been a deal breaker for me
You're not alone, I love the sound too!
Not having reverse is inconvenient and takes more time, although in some cases that could be a good thing (like working with leather, where a misplaced stitch hole is there forever). I probably wouldn't want this as my one-and-only machine, but as a backup and for the occasional job needing a really long stitch length, it should fit in nicely.
What kind of Singer do you have? I've never heard of your reverse situation.
@@thejasonofalltrades singer confidence 7640 - I waited till it went on sale at walmart about 2 years ago - my first embroidery machine (most likely my last lol)
I need another machine. OK, I want another machine.
Want, need ... it's all the same!
How do you finish a stitch/seam on the 225 if you can't reverse? Like you, I found a deal on this unit for $100, but used to reverse on my domestic Singer.
Alexander Dyer covered this topic in this video - m.ua-cam.com/video/ss0-yep-6FA/v-deo.html
I hope that helps!
@@thejasonofalltrades Really simple solution. Thanks.
I have a consew 118 that I can't find a video on. I am lost with no clue. Do you have any info or could do a video on it.
Hi,
I am not familiar with that model, and I don't have one to make a video with, sadly. From what I've seen online, it looks like a variant of the Singer 16-188. Check out this video from Alexander Dyer, it's not the exact machine but might be close enough to help you out.
ua-cam.com/video/eVxm3bVGmig/v-deo.html
Hello I have a quick question, Is it the same as a consew 18 and is it a walking foot?
Thanks in advance
Hi, I’m Tommy and I think I may be developing a sewing machine problem….and you aren’t helping 😂
Sorry! 😂
The one negative thumbs down is someone who doesn’t have a damn clue how to sew . LoL
They come up around here for $150 all the time, plus the parts are cheap and plentiful.
Where is "around here?" In case I need more :)
thejasonofalltrades Wisconsin, I’m happy to send photos when they come up, not much of a second hand market to drive prices here
Shipping would probably negate the price advantage, sadly. But it's good to know they're out there! Stay safe.
thejasonofalltrades lol! I try to fly southwest on vacation for the free second checked bag. Just in case
Why is Wisconsin and Minnesota full of vintage machines? I see a lot of parts and machines on eBay from that area.
I have one I sell it to you
You don't need it. You're a typical guy, buying more tools than you need. You have an addiction that is taking machines off the market for those who genuinely need them.
Congratulations! This is the dumbest comment I've received in some time!
When I bought this machine, there was a line of people desperately bidding on it, all of them needing it for their businesses in order to feed their families. I stepped in front of all of them, made a lowball offer, and walked away with the machine, laughing at all of the sad people who missed out.
Oh wait, that's not what happened. In fact, I watched the ad for the machine for a few weeks, then when it was still available at a reduced price, I went to the dark, leaky warehouse where the machine had sat abandoned and neglected for more than four years. After examining the machine and determining how much work it needed, I gave the owner $80 for it. If I hadn't, it was likely headed for a dumpster. Now the machine has a new life, and one day will probably move on to someone else for them to hopefully use and enjoy.
Many of my machines came from thrift stores. Do you know why people donate things to thrift stores? Because they don't want them anymore, and are unsuccessful at selling them (or they aren't worth enough money to bother selling)!
As much as I would like sewing to be a popular hobby, and sewing machines to be sought after and valuable, the truth is a very small percentage of people care about sewing or sewing machines, and these machines are plentiful and not worth a lot of money.
It is true that I have more machines than I need. I have sold a few, and given away a few, and will certainly do more of both in the future. I've acquired most of my machines for two reasons; I can use them for a video, and/or because they were headed for the trash and I saved them. No one who "genuinely needed them" was there to take them.
I appreciate you voicing your opinion, but I humbly suggest that you think a little harder before casually insulting people on the internet by commenting on subjects you clearly know nothing about.
Thanks for watching!
And you don't NEED to make idiot comments but you do. Not his fault you didn't buy this machine. You're a typical troll talking about crap you know NOTHING about. You just can't keep your idiocy to yourself and have to share with the world how stupid you are.