Thank you for this! It's always so hard not to overtrain when you're feeling strong. Suffering from joint inflammation for about 6 months, but we're getting better! Cheers
taking the foot off the accelerator can for sure be a hard thing. i missed it this time. hope the joint inflammation gets better. that one is annoying.
I did a full tear of the A2 on my left hand ring finger literally a week before you posted your first video about yours. It's been great to have your shared experience and advice along the journey, so thanks heaps! And I agree, I'm so psyched to be back climbing again, and keen to ease into it but take it even more seriously than I did before
I'm a physio who focuses on rock climbers, and I so appreciate you sharing your story. This is absolutely a video I'll be sharing with my patients as inspiration for them, that their climbing days are far from over! I'm thrilled to hear the process has gone well for you, and that you're coming out on top. Keep up the great work.
Man, even your injury-related videos getting my psyched to climb right now! But will rest one day more to have an even better session. Thanks for sharing this. Had an A4 ringfinger beginning of the year and it now feels like my strongest finger. It's worth jumping on the tractor and letting it do it' job.
Haha rest days are important. Have a good session when you do get chalky :). Thats definitely been a common story. Many people having their injured bit become the strongest. Pretty cool really. Shows what some consistent attention can do for improvement
I've been going through a similar journey (ring A2 partial rupture), although from the other side of the world. Seeing how you directed so much energy into other things while rehabbing but also maintained psych to climb again, helped me a ton. Keep the ol' tractor chugging 🔥
Your decades of experience shows in your positive attitude! If the healing levels off before 100% recovery I have found high dose Vit D seems to do the trick. 10k+ IU/day for a few weeks plus sun bathing and extra eggs for the Vit K is what I do. Its affects on collagen synthesis and tendon repair are well documented. DYOR and talk to your physio etc but it's a little hack that's worked for me and other friends that I don't hear often on climbing YT.
I'll look into it for sure. I'm lucky enough to have my partner be a sport dietitian so we've been working on some nutrition bits like collagen etc. Hopefully back to 100% sooner rather than later
You've had a rough trot with the injuries mate. Can't imagine your last 12 months was an easy one. I've gained a bunch of inspiration from seeing you just keeping on showing up. Stick with it
I popped my A2 pulley, you can make a brace for it to isolate it and force open-hand positions and essentially keep climbing avoiding crimps, and then strength crimps on hangboard isolation movements or fingerlifts. In my opinion the best way to rehab it while keeping climbing and maintaining strength while being safe on the injured tissue.
Tell me it's a trick of the camera lense; your TB2 holds top left in this shot look like their on the wrong angle, mainly the large slopper pinch and the side pull two left of it??? Must be the camera?
When your finger’s good to go, you should meet up with Beau Miles. He’s a trail runner and general mountain person who i reckon would make for an interesting conversation and video.
Hey Tom, I was wondering, do you ever train endurance? Because usually in your videos you are bouldering (it is the easiest to film I guess) and it also seems that your set up is focused on bouldering, but you crushed that 9a and kept crushing sport routes until it popped. Do you ever train endurance and do you think it's important? On another note, thank you for your videos and your psych. Regards from Spain!
Yes, absolutely train some endurance. But not a major priority. The climbing in the Blue mountains is not mega pumpy (boulder problems separated by good rests), so just some general fitness from cragging gets me by. But when I need it, I love making circuits on my boards to get the forearms fired up
Funny that you think a physio (or other professional assessment) is so important for a simple pulley injury. I think usually they are pretty benign in that you can’t mess them up forever and very rarely is it something severe where you actually need surgery.
@@TomOHalloranAus I totally agree when it comes to more difficult (to diagnose) or severe injuries. I’ve also learned from experience that if you *might* need surgery for something it’s a good idea to schedule it as early as possible. Waiting times are often months and it’s always possible to cancel (just ask).
Great to see the psyche returning and the whole process not including too many low points. Time to build!
Very keen on the build :)
Thank you for this! It's always so hard not to overtrain when you're feeling strong. Suffering from joint inflammation for about 6 months, but we're getting better! Cheers
taking the foot off the accelerator can for sure be a hard thing. i missed it this time. hope the joint inflammation gets better. that one is annoying.
I did a full tear of the A2 on my left hand ring finger literally a week before you posted your first video about yours. It's been great to have your shared experience and advice along the journey, so thanks heaps! And I agree, I'm so psyched to be back climbing again, and keen to ease into it but take it even more seriously than I did before
Ahhh damn, hope it's recovering well. On the rehab train together. How's yours progressing
I'm a physio who focuses on rock climbers, and I so appreciate you sharing your story. This is absolutely a video I'll be sharing with my patients as inspiration for them, that their climbing days are far from over! I'm thrilled to hear the process has gone well for you, and that you're coming out on top. Keep up the great work.
Ahh thank you. Psyched to hear it could be helpful. Enjoying the little wins along the way and looking forward to be back to 100% 😀
Man, even your injury-related videos getting my psyched to climb right now! But will rest one day more to have an even better session. Thanks for sharing this. Had an A4 ringfinger beginning of the year and it now feels like my strongest finger. It's worth jumping on the tractor and letting it do it' job.
Haha rest days are important. Have a good session when you do get chalky :). Thats definitely been a common story. Many people having their injured bit become the strongest. Pretty cool really. Shows what some consistent attention can do for improvement
easily best climbing channel on yt
haha thanks mate. keen to keep on making and frothing :)
Yesss Tom! Been waiting for this deep dive mate.
Hope it was helpful/interesting for you
I've been going through a similar journey (ring A2 partial rupture), although from the other side of the world. Seeing how you directed so much energy into other things while rehabbing but also maintained psych to climb again, helped me a ton.
Keep the ol' tractor chugging 🔥
Ahh dang. Sorry to hear about the injury. The time does go along and we'll both be back sooner than we realise. Just keep stacking the bricks
Your decades of experience shows in your positive attitude! If the healing levels off before 100% recovery I have found high dose Vit D seems to do the trick. 10k+ IU/day for a few weeks plus sun bathing and extra eggs for the Vit K is what I do. Its affects on collagen synthesis and tendon repair are well documented. DYOR and talk to your physio etc but it's a little hack that's worked for me and other friends that I don't hear often on climbing YT.
I'll look into it for sure. I'm lucky enough to have my partner be a sport dietitian so we've been working on some nutrition bits like collagen etc. Hopefully back to 100% sooner rather than later
Thanks for sharing mate. Has helped me frame my own thinking around this past year for me
You've had a rough trot with the injuries mate. Can't imagine your last 12 months was an easy one. I've gained a bunch of inspiration from seeing you just keeping on showing up. Stick with it
@ thanks man…hopefully 2025 is kinder!
fingers crossed
I popped my A2 pulley, you can make a brace for it to isolate it and force open-hand positions and essentially keep climbing avoiding crimps, and then strength crimps on hangboard isolation movements or fingerlifts. In my opinion the best way to rehab it while keeping climbing and maintaining strength while being safe on the injured tissue.
Yeah can be lots of options available based on injury, resources and how much you're keen to keep going
Tell me it's a trick of the camera lense; your TB2 holds top left in this shot look like their on the wrong angle, mainly the large slopper pinch and the side pull two left of it??? Must be the camera?
Bit of distortion perhaps. Checking the shot and the app pics and coordinates, I think it’s alright
When your finger’s good to go, you should meet up with Beau Miles. He’s a trail runner and general mountain person who i reckon would make for an interesting conversation and video.
Haha I literally just finished watching one of Beau's videos before replying to this message. A day out with him would be great :)
Haha nice. I reckon he’d be up for it and you’d both learn a lot from each other.
Hey Tom, I was wondering, do you ever train endurance? Because usually in your videos you are bouldering (it is the easiest to film I guess) and it also seems that your set up is focused on bouldering, but you crushed that 9a and kept crushing sport routes until it popped. Do you ever train endurance and do you think it's important?
On another note, thank you for your videos and your psych. Regards from Spain!
Yes, absolutely train some endurance. But not a major priority. The climbing in the Blue mountains is not mega pumpy (boulder problems separated by good rests), so just some general fitness from cragging gets me by. But when I need it, I love making circuits on my boards to get the forearms fired up
@TomOHalloranAus nice, thanks for the response! Guess I should train specifically for what I want to climb 🤔
it can be a useful tactic :)
Wisdom.👍
Glad it was helpful 😀✌️
Where abouts in Aus are you based. Where are you mainly climbing outside?
Blue Mountains, NSW. Lots of crimping here :)
Funny that you think a physio (or other professional assessment) is so important for a simple pulley injury. I think usually they are pretty benign in that you can’t mess them up forever and very rarely is it something severe where you actually need surgery.
Choose your own adventure. I’m a fan of speaking with people who know this stuff inside and out. Not having a stab at it myself.
@@TomOHalloranAus I totally agree when it comes to more difficult (to diagnose) or severe injuries. I’ve also learned from experience that if you *might* need surgery for something it’s a good idea to schedule it as early as possible. Waiting times are often months and it’s always possible to cancel (just ask).