The Pyrodex pellets work fine, you can load them by hand without a pipe cleaner. Even when they crumble they work fine for black powder pistol shooting. I most definitely respect Dustin's reviews, but these pellets work, I've had more problems with percussion caps than I've had with these pellets.
YUP work fine I like you respect The Dusty, I actually learn and learned many of the Black Powder art forms, tricks of trade. No one is more spot on, I do prefer goex, it is scarce and if you do locate I used to get 2-3 pounds at the 1 pound price of today. Pyrodex is viable, runs a little less.
Thanks so much for your great variety of demonstrations revealing what kind of power and accuracy we can expect from 19TH century firearms. The old guns compare very favorably to our modern smokeless ammunition fueled arms while being in many ways more economical and sometimes much more fun and interesting!
It might be worth trying to crush all six when seating the ball and check velocity and accuracy. I think a 200fps bump in velocity needs to be explored.
The amount of compression will vary from cylinder to cylinder. You will have mo way to meadurse the consistency from liad to load. Consistency in loading techique is everything in black powder.
Your an inspiration for the black powder pistol shooter's. I own a 1858 Remington 44 and a beautiful ruger 45. Recently subscribed to your videos, and enjoy all the great information. Thanks so much. Keep up the great news and info.
The convenience factor was always tempting But I've just never used anything but goex since I've always had easy access to it in a local shop. Plus the loading process is something cathartic.
I tried those pellets, they were very inconsistent and one nearly blew my gun even though it was properly loaded. I had a lot of trouble getting them to ignite and the power with the same load was extremely inconsistent, one shot was weak and another was like a triple load. I wouldn't use them if i were you.
Well I went to shooting them and noticed I couldn’t hear the bullets hitting the steel So I went to see where I was hitting I found I was shooting holes in the steel Fine product to me
Dry lead using soft lead ontop of that. Sounds like a Choreboy situation for sure. Wonder how that would affect accuracy overall. I know what your talking about. Crisco can get nasty and wads can fly and hit things. Maybe a little bore butter on a Q-tip and wipe it around the ball after you load it might help a little... just enough to get SOME lube...be interesting to see the results. BTW .I'm not a Pyrodex fan... eats the barrels worse than BP IMHO. GOOD VIDEO
I was given a few round containers of these and have used them a few times, but honestly didn't read the instructions. Now I know I'm not supposed to crush them when I seat the ball......
I absolutely love using these just for the ease of loading, though I will say they pack a bit of a punch compared to traditional powder. Really want to check the accuracy between the two with conicals once my lee conical mold arrives
The Ruger Old Army shooting .457 loaded with 50 grain pellets has some bark to it. Have yet to test the grouping, but it feels like a max load for a c&b revolver.
I've tried these pellets a few times in the past for my .44 caliber Pietta and Uberti revolbers. It felt like the load was way bigger than 30 grains -- more like 40 grains of BP. Also, I've found that for the fun shooting (and the entire BP revolvers thing is nothing but fun, right?) a load of 25 to 27 grains of BP is optimal for the Italian replicas.
Nice! I first saw these in a video for making quick paper cartridges. I would give them a try. but I sold my Cap & Ball. If I get another I will try them, though I wonder about the difference in cost.
thanks very nice video . i wonder what would be the result with 230 -250 grain conical bullets? could they fit the chamber with these pellets? what kind of velocity? regards daniel
I purchased two boxes of these pellets for my .44 Cal. Uberti 3rd model Colt Dragoon in late August 2018 . The first time shooting them they worked fine .It was a warm dry summer day at the range and I was carefull to reseal the box after each loading. I stored both containers in my gun safe at home after that day .They remained in my safe about six months until the next warm day the following spring of 2019 . I loaded my Dragoon with some of the unused pellets from the first container . BIG MISTAKE !!! Only three of five would fire. And when they did they were very weak.I had to disassemble the weapon by removing the nipples and push out the unfired pellets and ball ammunition. The second unopened container was just as bad ! Only about half of those pellets worked ! The ones that fired had also lost a lot of their original power leaving huge amounts of unburned residue !!! What a mess!!! I am back to loose powder / Pyrodex or Triple Seven now and forever !! So much for new technology !!!
Loved the video. I don't go shooting but love learning about it. I was watching another video (might have even been yours i don't know) where the person was shooting 40 grains not 30. Then the target was 7 yards he said. I'm wondering if each gun has its own sweet spot as far as powder is concerned??
Yes, each gun has its own sweet spot. This is also true for modern firearms, and is a large part of the reason precision rifle shooters handload so much. They can fine-tune their powder charge to their specific gun for maximum accuracy.
Thank you so much for sharing your research with us! Much appreciated! I've known of those pellets for very many years, but never tried them. I most likely will now.
I won a box of those years ago. I found that they worked quite well in .45 S&W Schofield cartridges using a 230 grain bullet. I also used them in some .44 Colt cases with a 200 grain .429 bullet. But I went back to using loose powder and cast bullets as those pellets were expensive.
I love pyridex pellets. I grew up using black powder, but when I started seeing pyridex pellets I started using a big time, that's all I use now. On chronographs pyridex are a lot better than black powder
Good video. I've been thinking about trying the pellets, just haven't yet. Interesting to see the velocity you get from them. i know you did a video on the loose Pyrodex P powder but can't recall the velocities from that video. Just curious about the velocity difference between loose Pyrodex and the Pyrodex pellets.
I like your new channel name. I shoot pyrodex all the time, mainly because in Ohio real black powder is hard to find. I like the powder though. I have tried inline pellets in my modern inline muzzle loader with poor results. My rifle's sweet spot is 80 grains (RS powder) using my lee cast 50 caliber bullets. With that load, I can consistently shoot 1 to 2 in groups at 50 yds. When I use pellets, I am all over the target. Pellets are probably ideal for the guy that doesn't shoot much and isn't interested in getting the best accuracy or in learning the finer arts of muzzleloading.
Good points. It would be interesting if the pellets came in different sizes for each caliber. For example, a 50-grain and a 30-grain, so you could still get that 90-grain load. Maybe someday. Thanks for watching!
That would put someone down fast it's got some kick that means power a pretty good amount of it. by the look of the pistol Jumping around as he holds it when fireing it
It’s the difference in velocity between the slowest shot and the fastest shot. The smaller the spread, the better, since it indicates good consistency. Thanks for watching!
Awesome! I've been using those pellets in my own 1858 New Army model and have wondered about their performance. Not to brag (okay I'm bragging) but I've gotten some pretty serious accuracy out of them too! Thanks Dustin!
Pyrodex 45/50 pellets are versatile. In addition to firing them from my Pietta 1860 Army, I've loaded them in .45 Colt cases behind a 250 grain lead flat point bullet with good results, fired out of a Cimarron Hartford Model Colt-clone. In the latter instance, I top them off with either a felt or thick paper wad before seating the bullet. Lots of fun! Cheers.
I belive I have the same pietta navy yank .44 ,still haven't used it yet, was curious about it being similar to the army 1860 model? And if the 30grain pellets are good ,and what your choice load would be
@@johnrobinson6931 The main difference between the Navy and Army models is the size of the grip frame (and wooden grips/stocks). The Army model has a more hand-filling handle (grips), whereas the Navy model is somewhat smaller. I like the .45-50 pellets for .44 round balls, but if I'm shooting with loose powder (Pyrodex, Shockey's, or blackpowder), I like about a 30 grain-equivalent load - maybe a bit more for a compressed load.
@@SCSlimBoiseID hey thank you very much for your response very cool I'm a newbie with the cap and ball revolvers but again thanks for explaining the difference between the two, you seem very knowledgeable about the subject!
Great video. I have often wondered how consistent the pellets were. Looks like a good way to go. Green screen looks like it is working well or done on site, can't tell!
Thank you for this video. Is there a possibility of you testing the pyrodex pellets with a conical and see what energies will result from the combination? I'm guessing somewhere in the 400's ft/lbs
I have both of the paper cartridge making kits (.44 & .36) and I have made some. But I like this idea using the Pyrodex pellets. After inserting the cartridge into the cylinder and compressing it, do you not need to put grease or other substance on top of the ball to eliminate chain fires?
First, I wanted to say thank you for bringing this stuff to us. I think we enjoy seeing or learning about it, probably as much (if not more) as you enjoy experimenting with it! But my question is where can I get these pellets? My "local" stores, if I even dare call 75 miles one way local!) only seem to carry muzzle loader/rifle stuff and worse, its only around hunting season. There doesn't seem to be a "shooting for fun" season around here! On line I've checked several places and they only carry the T7 powder. I'm dying to try the Pyrodex pellets! I still have yet to find a place that sells actual black powder, so if you know of a place post a link for that too!!! Thank you for all the great videos! Keep them coming!!!
Thanks! I’m glad you’re enjoying the channel. I picked these pellets up at Sportsman’s Warehouse. I buy my real black powder at Bear River Powder in Evanston, Wyoming, And also at The Mountain Man in Manitou Springs, Colorado. Thanks for watching!
New owner of a Remington 1858 here, would it be less harmful to the gun and/or cylinder to use smoke wads with powder pellets? Or are powder pellets meant to be fired without the wads? Same question for lubricating the lead ball.
How in gods name were you getting over 1000 feet per second on these things? My performance was so bad my gun acted like a Roman candle, arching shots into the ground.
Brother Dustin...i watched the vid.,when you loaded with pellets, was there any space around pellet before ball was seated, in b/p I've heard shouldn't be any empty space between powder n bullet,just asking
I have watched two UA-cam videos where they made "solid" historical recreations of black powder revolver cartridges. One used a nitrocellulose in acetone binder and the other used a binder similar to gum arabic. Have you tried these??
I have had some issues with the Pyrodex Pellets, crushing them did not help from my take (per Dusting). I suspect they are intended to flash fire down the middle of the Pellet via that hole and then burn outward. There is a lot involved in this from cones to the chamber (I have color coded mine so I can track them and see if consistently good or bad). One lady had a U tube of loading 50 gr pellet in a Ruger Old Army. That was a good smack and one dud.
Thank Dustin. I am new to black powder. Enjoy that you give traditional as well as historical information. Nice to see the limits of these guns. Its impressive.
JEB STUART talked bout using wagon greese as lube. I do the same I use high temp and high pressure wheel bearing greese. It is cheaper cause I already have to but greese for what I afto do for a living.
30 grains is a pretty stiff load in any 44 cap n ball revolver, except a Ruger Old Army. If you guys are loafing up for a brass frame revolver, better back off that charge to say 22 grains of ffg or substitute black powder with a max charge of 25 grains of ffg. Continued use of heavy charges will loosen up and damage brass frame guns. It causes barrel end shake better known as excessive barrel cylinder gap.
If you can crush the pellets why wouldn't you do it all the time? 1 you apparently got higher pressure and higher speed on the bullet? 2 I thought there weren't supposed to be any air gaps between powder and bullet, and with a hole in the charge that would mean air gap?
So is there the same chance for a chain fire occurrance by not using wads or lube with the pellets, or have you figured that out as yet? Seems like the pipe cleaner method of handling is a bit of overkill... I purchased some of these in a plastic jar (same quantity and specs - also Hodgdon) and they were just loose - to be picked out with fingers... I putrchased mine a few years ago at Cabella's - maybe by now they've changed packaging?
The way to prevent chain fires is to use the correct-size balls and caps. The lube has more to do with managing fouling than preventing chain fires. Thanks for watching!
I just found your channel. I did a quick look through older videos. What I was looking for is a recoil comparison between modern smokeless and black powder revolver. I am a disabled veteran and shooting high pressure calibers causes a lot of physical issues. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated. Be well in these trying times.
Hi Matt, Being prior military myself I find that the recoil from cap and ball pistols tends to be milder than that of modern day cartridge pistols due to the slower burning nature of black powder. Another added advantage is that you can vary the load (18 grains versus 30 grains) to decrease the recoil even further and increase the accuracy. One of the drawbacks to shooting cap and ball is the price of the revolvers and the cost to shoot, which is why I have 12 of them and they continue to multiply! LOL Try one of the .36 caliber models with the reduced loads and I'm sure you will enjoy it, also don't discount the .44 caliber models as they can shoot with reduced loads also. If you have any more questions feel free to drop me a line or check out one of the many cap and ball (aka Black Powder) forums on the internet. There is a lot of information available online and especially here on UA-cam! "Be safe out there!"
Unless one is crushing pellets Lube/Wad is really not necessary. Loose Powder YES by all means lube or wad or both to your liking for the pellets I find it not really needed. Lube/Wad is to prevent a Chain fire Loose powder is notorious for. UNLESS the pellet is crushed really no chance of occurrence as it is dropped cleanly in. Unlike Powder which tends to lead trails. Now I will side if to air to caution is your nature, by all means have at it. At the range let me shoot in peace as I do you.
Actually, the lube is not for preventing chain fires. (Though it may help with that if the bullet/ball is undersized.) The actual purpose of the lube is to keep fouling from hardening in the rifling. The excess lube that splatters can also help to keep the action running smoothly.
Not pushing the lead ball down all the way on purpose? I've never heard of someone doing this. If you are purposely trying to not crush the pellets, maybe that's what's causing the inconsistency. Does it say on the box to not crush them?
Pressing the ball onto the pellet, but not crushing, provides very good consistency. The only shot not consistent with the others is the one that was crushed.
Curious to know the shelf life of the pellets? I've never used them and I'm not a Pyrodex fan. Have you ever seated a ball on a pellet then extracted the ball to see how the pellet breaks down? Are the pellets supposed to be compressed when seating the ball? As someone who only trusts real black powder I can't imagine using them but I'm curious.
I like Ruger Old Army Girl's channel. She used a 50gr rifle pellet w/round ball. So, dumb question, cant they make a real black powder pellet?? I heard the Pyro doesn't have the same sweet smell. Anyone?
In my experience, Pyrodex creates quite a bit more fouling than other powders. It’s pretty corrosive too, so the gun needs to be cleaned fairly soon after shooting. Thanks for watching!
I am curious in that a measure of black powder recommended for a brass revolver is around 22g - 24g. The pyrodex pellets are 30g and more powerful than black powder. Actually 30g is too large a charge as recommended by Pietta for any of its revolver. I don't see why they are being made in 30g when they are not supposed to be used with that size charge. Can they be cut down with something non-sparking? These pellets seem to be a dilemma!
I wouldn't worry about it, historically the 44 caliber pistols fired 30-40gr loads just fine and the originals were built with much lower quality steel than the modern ones. The whole " barely enough powder to get the bullet out of the barrel with a bunch of corn meal filler" is a modern day thing. Johnson and dow 44 caliber paper cartidges sold in the 1860's had 35 grains of BP and a 240gr bullet, from what I've read. So a 30 grain pellet with a 140gr round ball isn't going to be anything to worry about it, even in a brass frame 44.
i have had pyrodex go gummy in my muzzle loader rifles in cold weather, this was the grain type powder,,have you ever tried making your own black powder for revolvers ?
I like them faster to reload,powerful,I just shot over two hundred of them with my nephew out of 4 guns two 1851 navy one steel the other brass .......a stainless 1858 Remington......and a 1856 lemat ..............had absolutely no trouble and no miss fires ........definitely buying more .....
I have several cans of very old Pyrodex, both have been stored in a cool dry basement since the 1970's. They still smell the same and on the box it only says to be used equivalent to FFFG. Just bought a new 44 cap&ball revolver. Your thoughts on using this pyrodex ? Thanks
How does the fouling compare with BP. As I am shooting in France I use Vectan PNF-2 pistol grade BP in a Pietta Remington New Army in .44. Vectan apparently now sell a similar product to the Pyrodex Pellets called Charges poudre noire prédosées .44 Reminton but I think it is just a pelleted BP, not a synthetic product like the Pyrodex.
These exact type of pellets have broken my Pietta 1860 Army twice. The first time it deformed the wedge so badly it had to be beaten out with a punch and two pound ball peen hammer. I figured it was just a bad wedge from Pietta and I ordered a new one. The second time I fired several cylinders worth of these though it and it again deformed the wedge so badly it had to be beaten out, and the recoil ripped the loading latch retainer out of its dovetail. It also caused the barrel to begin to bulge at the rear end of the wedge cutout on both sides. The load I used was just one Pyrodex pellet, an Ox Yoke felt wad, and a Hornady 140gr .454" ball and a CCI #11 cap and slix shot nipples. I'm sure they work for some people but they were massively overpowered and destroyed my Pietta 1860 Army. I don't have these problems when I use powdered Pyrodex, or 3fg Goex, or the homemade stuff I make from stump remover, It's only these pellets.
if i use these in a walker should i do two? just got my walker today, plan on shooting tomorrow. i see most people do not do the full 60gr load, I'm just asking if the pellets fit and if the compression is too much for it.
Enlightening that you can get pre loaded powder, how much does this work out in lose and pre loads. If consistancy is that good it may be ideal for comp shooting.
It seems that there would always be a gap between the powder and the ball in these revolvers. The loading lever for all of them only press the ball down about an inch, and a standard 30 grain powder charge or pellet is another inch if that. The cylinder is at least 3 inches. It doesn't make much sense to me that they make these loading levers so small, I'm nervous to shoot my loaded 1858 Pietta that has a 30 grain Pyrodex pellet, a wonderwad, and ball in each chamber. Any advice from the long time bp revolver veterans would be much appreciated!
You should be fine with that load. The cylinder isn’t quite that big and some of it is taken up by the length of the nipple threading. Even in the big Colt Walker, I typically only use 40 grains of powder and it’s fine. Thanks for watching!
I've noticed that many cylinder conversions say that you cannot shoot 45 colt that's faster than 850 fps which is 400ft lbs of energy, but it says your balls are going faster than 1200 fps which is 500ft lbs of energy. Are they just being over cautious with their warnings or is there something I'm missing out on?
You're missing the projectile weight. Muzzle energy is velocity and weight. A lighter bullet going faster than a heavier bullet may have the same energy. Round ball is just about the lightest solid projectile you can get. A .45 round ball weighs 140 grains, which is the same mass you will find in the conical bullet of a .38 Special.
I have a question for you. I can not find these pellets anywhere. The .50 grain rifle pellets sure, but not the 30 grain revolver pellets. Can you suggest a source?
@@GunsOfTheWest Ok I found them at SPortsmans warehouse. Almost missed them, they seem to have changed the packaging. Instead of the plastic box they are now in a little tin canister. (Or that is what the picture looks like at any rate). Thanks much.
Check out the Guns of the West store here: gunsoftheweststore.com
Watching your videos is like going to Cap and Ball College. You really get to the point, too.
Thanks!
The Pyrodex pellets work fine, you can load them by hand without a pipe cleaner. Even when they crumble they work fine for black powder pistol shooting. I most definitely respect Dustin's reviews, but these pellets work, I've had more problems with percussion caps than I've had with these pellets.
YUP work fine I like you respect The Dusty, I actually learn and learned many of the Black Powder art forms, tricks of trade. No one is more spot on, I do prefer goex, it is scarce and if you do locate I used to get 2-3 pounds at the 1 pound price of today. Pyrodex is viable, runs a little less.
But you can't taylor your load so they are pointless unless shooting for fun
SLIXSHOT NIPPLES ,MIGHT FIX YOUR CAP PROBLEM 👍
Thanks so much for your great variety of demonstrations revealing what kind of power and accuracy we can expect from 19TH century firearms. The old guns compare very favorably to our modern smokeless ammunition fueled arms while being in many ways more economical and sometimes much more fun and interesting!
It might be worth trying to crush all six when seating the ball and check velocity and accuracy. I think a 200fps bump in velocity needs to be explored.
I was curious about that too
You can crush them in?
The amount of compression will vary from cylinder to cylinder. You will have mo way to meadurse the consistency from liad to load.
Consistency in loading techique is everything in black powder.
Your an inspiration for the black powder pistol shooter's. I own a 1858 Remington 44 and a beautiful ruger 45. Recently subscribed to your videos, and enjoy all the great information. Thanks so much. Keep up the great news and info.
The convenience factor was always tempting
But I've just never used anything but goex since I've always had easy access to it in a local shop. Plus the loading process is something cathartic.
for some goex is not easy to find, Pyrodex in pellet or powder is easier to locate.
That’s interesting I’ve never tried those pallets, last time I checked there was pretty expensive, but it looks like they could be really accurate
I tried those pellets, they were very inconsistent and one nearly blew my gun even though it was properly loaded. I had a lot of trouble getting them to ignite and the power with the same load was extremely inconsistent, one shot was weak and another was like a triple load. I wouldn't use them if i were you.
Great video Dustin. I always enjoy your submissions as the information is always useful and well presented.
Thanks!
Well I went to shooting them and noticed
I couldn’t hear the bullets hitting the steel
So I went to see where I was hitting
I found I was shooting holes in the steel
Fine product to me
Stik Pickwell WOW!
Guns Of The West it was a piece of guard rail
Off the interstate
Shoot at about 40 feet with a 44 Remington new army peitta
Thanks Dustin. Excellent info. Now I'm gonna have to try that.
Dry lead using soft lead ontop of that. Sounds like a Choreboy situation for sure. Wonder how that would affect accuracy overall. I know what your talking about. Crisco can get nasty and wads can fly and hit things. Maybe a little bore butter on a Q-tip and wipe it around the ball after you load it might help a little... just enough to get SOME lube...be interesting to see the results.
BTW .I'm not a Pyrodex fan... eats the barrels worse than BP IMHO. GOOD VIDEO
I was given a few round containers of these and have used them a few times, but honestly didn't read the instructions. Now I know I'm not supposed to crush them when I seat the ball......
when i first started i got a box of those pellets, still half full to this day. much prefer loose powder from a flask or lee dipper.
Had . not heard of these until today. Thanks for the review!
I had seen them for the big rifles, but just recently found out about the revolver ones when viewers started requesting a video on them.
I absolutely love using these just for the ease of loading, though I will say they pack a bit of a punch compared to traditional powder. Really want to check the accuracy between the two with conicals once my lee conical mold arrives
Dustin, I cast conicals. Have you thought of trying those? I won't use round balls anymore. Mark Hubbs eras gone moulds are awesome.
I’m a big fan of Eras Gone Bullet Molds. If you search my channel, you’ll find numerous videos of me shooting those. Thanks for watching!
The Ruger Old Army shooting .457 loaded with 50 grain pellets has some bark to it. Have yet to test the grouping, but it feels like a max load for a c&b revolver.
I've tried these pellets a few times in the past for my .44 caliber Pietta and Uberti revolbers. It felt like the load was way bigger than 30 grains -- more like 40 grains of BP.
Also, I've found that for the fun shooting (and the entire BP revolvers thing is nothing but fun, right?) a load of 25 to 27 grains of BP is optimal for the Italian replicas.
Nice! I first saw these in a video for making quick paper cartridges. I would give them a try. but I sold my Cap & Ball. If I get another I will try them, though I wonder about the difference in cost.
thanks very nice video . i wonder what would be the result with 230 -250 grain conical bullets? could they fit the chamber with these pellets? what kind of velocity? regards daniel
I purchased two boxes of these pellets for my .44 Cal. Uberti 3rd model Colt Dragoon in late August 2018 . The first time shooting them they worked fine .It was a warm dry summer day at the range and I was carefull to reseal the box after each loading. I stored both containers in my gun safe at home after that day .They remained in my safe about six months until the next warm day the following spring of 2019 . I loaded my Dragoon with some of the unused pellets from the first container . BIG MISTAKE !!! Only three of five would fire. And when they did they were very weak.I had to disassemble the weapon by removing the nipples and push out the unfired pellets and ball ammunition. The second unopened container was just as bad ! Only about half of those pellets worked ! The ones that fired had also lost a lot of their original power leaving huge amounts of unburned residue !!! What a mess!!! I am back to loose powder / Pyrodex or Triple Seven now and forever !! So much for new technology !!!
@Larry Myers Your welcome .
Loved the video. I don't go shooting but love learning about it. I was watching another video (might have even been yours i don't know) where the person was shooting 40 grains not 30. Then the target was 7 yards he said. I'm wondering if each gun has its own sweet spot as far as powder is concerned??
Yes, each gun has its own sweet spot. This is also true for modern firearms, and is a large part of the reason precision rifle shooters handload so much. They can fine-tune their powder charge to their specific gun for maximum accuracy.
Thank you so much for sharing your research with us! Much appreciated! I've known of those pellets for very many years, but never tried them. I most likely will now.
Thanks for watching!
I won a box of those years ago. I found that they worked quite well in .45 S&W Schofield cartridges using a 230 grain bullet. I also used them in some .44 Colt cases with a 200 grain .429 bullet. But I went back to using loose powder and cast bullets as those pellets were expensive.
I love pyridex pellets. I grew up using black powder, but when I started seeing pyridex pellets I started using a big time, that's all I use now. On chronographs pyridex are a lot better than black powder
Good video. I've been thinking about trying the pellets, just haven't yet. Interesting to see the velocity you get from them. i know you did a video on the loose Pyrodex P powder but can't recall the velocities from that video. Just curious about the velocity difference between loose Pyrodex and the Pyrodex pellets.
I’m actually going to do a “Part 2” and compare the two.
@@GunsOfTheWest Thanks. Can't wait to see it.
I like your new channel name. I shoot pyrodex all the time, mainly because in Ohio real black powder is hard to find. I like the powder though. I have tried inline pellets in my modern inline muzzle loader with poor results. My rifle's sweet spot is 80 grains (RS powder) using my lee cast 50 caliber bullets. With that load, I can consistently shoot 1 to 2 in groups at 50 yds. When I use pellets, I am all over the target. Pellets are probably ideal for the guy that doesn't shoot much and isn't interested in getting the best accuracy or in learning the finer arts of muzzleloading.
Good points. It would be interesting if the pellets came in different sizes for each caliber. For example, a 50-grain and a 30-grain, so you could still get that 90-grain load. Maybe someday. Thanks for watching!
Try a. 50 and a pistol size 30 in the same load.
That would put someone down fast it's got some kick that means power a pretty good amount of it. by the look of the pistol Jumping around as he holds it when fireing it
Great video...so what is "spread" ?
It’s the difference in velocity between the slowest shot and the fastest shot. The smaller the spread, the better, since it indicates good consistency. Thanks for watching!
Awesome! I've been using those pellets in my own 1858 New Army model and have wondered about their performance. Not to brag (okay I'm bragging) but I've gotten some pretty serious accuracy out of them too!
Thanks Dustin!
Thanks for watching!
Those are pretty cool. They're a kin to what I use in my in-line muzzle loader for deer hunting.
They look pretty convenient, never tried them myself yet though. Surprised at the velocities you were getting
Pyrodex 45/50 pellets are versatile. In addition to firing them from my Pietta 1860 Army, I've loaded them in .45 Colt cases behind a 250 grain lead flat point bullet with good results, fired out of a Cimarron Hartford Model Colt-clone. In the latter instance, I top them off with either a felt or thick paper wad before seating the bullet.
Lots of fun! Cheers.
I belive I have the same pietta navy yank .44 ,still haven't used it yet, was curious about it being similar to the army 1860 model? And if the 30grain pellets are good ,and what your choice load would be
@@johnrobinson6931 The main difference between the Navy and Army models is the size of the grip frame (and wooden grips/stocks). The Army model has a more hand-filling handle (grips), whereas the Navy model is somewhat smaller. I like the .45-50 pellets for .44 round balls, but if I'm shooting with loose powder (Pyrodex, Shockey's, or blackpowder), I like about a 30 grain-equivalent load - maybe a bit more for a compressed load.
@@SCSlimBoiseID hey thank you very much for your response very cool I'm a newbie with the cap and ball revolvers but again thanks for explaining the difference between the two, you seem very knowledgeable about the subject!
Congratulations, Dustin! 150-0 so far, if you know what I mean!
Great video. I have often wondered how consistent the pellets were. Looks like a good way to go. Green screen looks like it is working well or done on site, can't tell!
Thanks! That’s still just a green screen.
Thank you for this video. Is there a possibility of you testing the pyrodex pellets with a conical and see what energies will result from the combination? I'm guessing somewhere in the 400's ft/lbs
I can do that. I’ll fit it into a future video. Thanks for watching!
I have both of the paper cartridge making kits (.44 & .36) and I have made some. But I like this idea using the Pyrodex pellets. After inserting the cartridge into the cylinder and compressing it, do you not need to put grease or other substance on top of the ball to eliminate chain fires?
First, I wanted to say thank you for bringing this stuff to us. I think we enjoy seeing or learning about it, probably as much (if not more) as you enjoy experimenting with it!
But my question is where can I get these pellets?
My "local" stores, if I even dare call 75 miles one way local!) only seem to carry muzzle loader/rifle stuff and worse, its only around hunting season. There doesn't seem to be a "shooting for fun" season around here! On line I've checked several places and they only carry the T7 powder. I'm dying to try the Pyrodex pellets! I still have yet to find a place that sells actual black powder, so if you know of a place post a link for that too!!!
Thank you for all the great videos! Keep them coming!!!
Thanks! I’m glad you’re enjoying the channel.
I picked these pellets up at Sportsman’s Warehouse. I buy my real black powder at Bear River Powder in Evanston, Wyoming, And also at The Mountain Man in Manitou Springs, Colorado.
Thanks for watching!
New owner of a Remington 1858 here, would it be less harmful to the gun and/or cylinder to use smoke wads with powder pellets? Or are powder pellets meant to be fired without the wads?
Same question for lubricating the lead ball.
How in gods name were you getting over 1000 feet per second on these things? My performance was so bad my gun acted like a Roman candle, arching shots into the ground.
Brother Dustin...i watched the vid.,when you loaded with pellets, was there any space around pellet before ball was seated, in b/p I've heard shouldn't be any empty space between powder n bullet,just asking
I have watched two UA-cam videos where they made "solid" historical recreations of black powder revolver cartridges. One used a nitrocellulose in acetone binder and the other used a binder similar to gum arabic. Have you tried these??
Great stuff guys and girls love the vids great info keep up the good work ime new to this black powder stuff so info is great thanks
Thanks for watching!
I've had and used shotguns I thought I would try something different 😀 great stuff thanks
I have had some issues with the Pyrodex Pellets, crushing them did not help from my take (per Dusting). I suspect they are intended to flash fire down the middle of the Pellet via that hole and then burn outward. There is a lot involved in this from cones to the chamber (I have color coded mine so I can track them and see if consistently good or bad). One lady had a U tube of loading 50 gr pellet in a Ruger Old Army. That was a good smack and one dud.
Thank Dustin. I am new to black powder. Enjoy that you give traditional as well as historical information. Nice to see the limits of these guns. Its impressive.
JEB STUART talked bout using wagon greese as lube. I do the same I use high temp and high pressure wheel bearing greese. It is cheaper cause I already have to but greese for what I afto do for a living.
It would be nice if Pyrodex made these pellets for .36 caliber.
I always get hang fires every shot with those pyrodex pellets in both my 1858 Remingtons
Good stuff learning a lot. Dad had buffalo when I was about 16. 30 years later I got 8” barrel. My son has 5” barrel. We’re going to have fun.
30 grains is a pretty stiff load in any 44 cap n ball revolver, except a Ruger Old Army. If you guys are loafing up for a brass frame revolver, better back off that charge to say 22 grains of ffg or substitute black powder with a max charge of 25 grains of ffg. Continued use of heavy charges will loosen up and damage brass frame guns. It causes barrel end shake better known as excessive barrel cylinder gap.
@@denisdegamon8224 mines steel sons brass. He doesn’t shoot it got new kimber 1911 custom II. It’s nice big frame 5”. 45.
FINALLY a tech ,,,
a , cowboy tech , but a TECH!
Thanks for watching!
Never knew pirodex pellets existed for revolvers how new is that?
Apparently, they’ve been around quite a while, but I didn’t know until viewers recently started requesting a video on them.
If you can crush the pellets why wouldn't you do it all the time? 1 you apparently got higher pressure and higher speed on the bullet? 2 I thought there weren't supposed to be any air gaps between powder and bullet, and with a hole in the charge that would mean air gap?
Hello. How are you doing? Is Lube Or Prelubricated Material have to be used before a Black Powder Firearm can be shot?
I have the same gun essentially. This is interesting. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I think the max pyrodex for my gun 27 or 28. Is it ok to load these 30 grain pellets? I really like the extra power you get
Which gun do you have?
Do they make them for 36 cal as well. And where do you find them I've not seen any anywhere
Could these possibly be used as a substitute for blank shot? Would you still have to floral foam?
30 grains is perfect. 1 for regular guns and 2 for walkers!
were cap malfunctions a common issue during the actual days of old till present ?
Interesting results those pellets work allot better than I thought they would thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
So is there the same chance for a chain fire occurrance by not using wads or lube with the pellets, or have you figured that out as yet? Seems like the pipe cleaner method of handling is a bit of overkill... I purchased some of these in a plastic jar (same quantity and specs - also Hodgdon) and they were just loose - to be picked out with fingers... I putrchased mine a few years ago at Cabella's - maybe by now they've changed packaging?
The way to prevent chain fires is to use the correct-size balls and caps. The lube has more to do with managing fouling than preventing chain fires. Thanks for watching!
I just found your channel. I did a quick look through older videos. What I was looking for is a recoil comparison between modern smokeless and black powder revolver. I am a disabled veteran and shooting high pressure calibers causes a lot of physical issues. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated. Be well in these trying times.
Hi Matt, Being prior military myself I find that the recoil from cap and ball pistols tends to be milder than that of modern day cartridge pistols due to the slower burning nature of black powder. Another added advantage is that you can vary the load (18 grains versus 30 grains) to decrease the recoil even further and increase the accuracy. One of the drawbacks to shooting cap and ball is the price of the revolvers and the cost to shoot, which is why I have 12 of them and they continue to multiply! LOL Try one of the .36 caliber models with the reduced loads and I'm sure you will enjoy it, also don't discount the .44 caliber models as they can shoot with reduced loads also. If you have any more questions feel free to drop me a line or check out one of the many cap and ball (aka Black Powder) forums on the internet. There is a lot of information available online and especially here on UA-cam! "Be safe out there!"
....... and I'm using Remington #10 percussion caps (which you can't find anywhere)
Lately, they’ve been showing up again.
Unless one is crushing pellets Lube/Wad is really not necessary. Loose Powder YES by all means lube or wad or both to your liking for the pellets I find it not really needed. Lube/Wad is to prevent a Chain fire Loose powder is notorious for. UNLESS the pellet is crushed really no chance of occurrence as it is dropped cleanly in. Unlike Powder which tends to lead trails. Now I will side if to air to caution is your nature, by all means have at it. At the range let me shoot in peace as I do you.
Actually, the lube is not for preventing chain fires. (Though it may help with that if the bullet/ball is undersized.) The actual purpose of the lube is to keep fouling from hardening in the rifling. The excess lube that splatters can also help to keep the action running smoothly.
All I can find is the 45/ 50 pellets . I'm worried about an over charge, am I safe to usethem?
Did you find an answer on this?
That’s all I can find too!
Seems 50 grain might blow it up!
Not pushing the lead ball down all the way on purpose? I've never heard of someone doing this. If you are purposely trying to not crush the pellets, maybe that's what's causing the inconsistency. Does it say on the box to not crush them?
Pressing the ball onto the pellet, but not crushing, provides very good consistency. The only shot not consistent with the others is the one that was crushed.
Curious to know the shelf life of the pellets? I've never used them and I'm not a Pyrodex fan.
Have you ever seated a ball on a pellet then extracted the ball to see how the pellet breaks down? Are the pellets supposed to be compressed when seating the ball?
As someone who only trusts real black powder I can't imagine using them but I'm curious.
You’re supposed to press the ball down until it’s on the pellet, but not to break the pellet.
@@GunsOfTheWest Thanks! Seems like that might be a bit tricky. Stickin' with the real stuff!
I like Ruger Old Army Girl's channel. She used a 50gr rifle pellet w/round ball.
So, dumb question, cant they make a real black powder pellet??
I heard the Pyro doesn't have the same sweet smell.
Anyone?
Does anyone have the velocities of these pellets in the pietta ace?
Damn those rounds are stronger than a 45 acp wow. You would have 44 magnum strength with 2 pellets in each chamber
That would be a 60 grain equinalent.probably wouldn t fit
Great job….very informative……
Any noticeable difference in fouling/cleaning over black or synthetic powders?
In my experience, Pyrodex creates quite a bit more fouling than other powders. It’s pretty corrosive too, so the gun needs to be cleaned fairly soon after shooting. Thanks for watching!
I am curious in that a measure of black powder recommended for a brass revolver is around 22g - 24g. The pyrodex pellets are 30g and more powerful than black powder. Actually 30g is too large a charge as recommended by Pietta for any of its revolver. I don't see why they are being made in 30g when they are not supposed to be used with that size charge. Can they be cut down with something non-sparking? These pellets seem to be a dilemma!
I wouldn't worry about it, historically the 44 caliber pistols fired 30-40gr loads just fine and the originals were built with much lower quality steel than the modern ones. The whole " barely enough powder to get the bullet out of the barrel with a bunch of corn meal filler" is a modern day thing. Johnson and dow 44 caliber paper cartidges sold in the 1860's had 35 grains of BP and a 240gr bullet, from what I've read. So a 30 grain pellet with a 140gr round ball isn't going to be anything to worry about it, even in a brass frame 44.
i have had pyrodex go gummy in my muzzle loader rifles in cold weather, this was the grain type powder,,have you ever tried making your own black powder for revolvers ?
How is it working with paper cartridge set up?
I like them faster to reload,powerful,I just shot over two hundred of them with my nephew out of 4 guns two 1851 navy one steel the other brass .......a stainless 1858 Remington......and a 1856 lemat ..............had absolutely no trouble and no miss fires ........definitely buying more .....
If I recall, the Uberti book says 19gr, and otherwise ive read 25gr as the max. Why did Pyrodex go to 30gr?
It seems like the manuals for these guns always recommend very light loads. 30 grains is actually a good charge for this model.
I have several cans of very old Pyrodex, both have been stored in a cool dry basement since the 1970's. They still smell the same and on the box it only says to be used equivalent to FFFG. Just bought a new 44 cap&ball revolver. Your thoughts on using this pyrodex ? Thanks
How does the fouling compare with BP. As I am shooting in France I use Vectan PNF-2 pistol grade BP in a Pietta Remington New Army in .44. Vectan apparently now sell a similar product to the Pyrodex Pellets called Charges poudre noire prédosées .44 Reminton but I think it is just a pelleted BP, not a synthetic product like the Pyrodex.
Hey, Dustin
Have you tested triple 7 pellets in sidelock or traditional rifles?
I haven’t.
Can these be used on 1851 navy brass frame
These exact type of pellets have broken my Pietta 1860 Army twice. The first time it deformed the wedge so badly it had to be beaten out with a punch and two pound ball peen hammer. I figured it was just a bad wedge from Pietta and I ordered a new one. The second time I fired several cylinders worth of these though it and it again deformed the wedge so badly it had to be beaten out, and the recoil ripped the loading latch retainer out of its dovetail. It also caused the barrel to begin to bulge at the rear end of the wedge cutout on both sides. The load I used was just one Pyrodex pellet, an Ox Yoke felt wad, and a Hornady 140gr .454" ball and a CCI #11 cap and slix shot nipples. I'm sure they work for some people but they were massively overpowered and destroyed my Pietta 1860 Army. I don't have these problems when I use powdered Pyrodex, or 3fg Goex, or the homemade stuff I make from stump remover, It's only these pellets.
Really liked the vid, didn't even know they made pistol pellets, thx for the vid.
Thanks for watching!
Can you use those in a Remington 1858 brass frame revolver ???? Or will it stretch the frame
Hey there, just getting into black powder, can these be used in a trapper pistol in 44 cal? I recently acquired one and was just wondering. Thanks!
I find that they are very hydroscopic. A box with the shrink wrap removed becomes unusable after a few months.
if i use these in a walker should i do two? just got my walker today, plan on shooting tomorrow. i see most people do not do the full 60gr load, I'm just asking if the pellets fit and if the compression is too much for it.
Enlightening that you can get pre loaded powder, how much does this work out in lose and pre loads. If consistancy is that good it may be ideal for comp shooting.
Someone should really start manufacturing pellets for the
.36 guns. There are more than enough of them out there to justify making pellets for them.
Thanks for the info Brother 👍🏻~John
Thanks for the demonstration. Can I use the powder pellet ‘s in a tradition ‘s 44 buffalo hand gun that has a 12 inch barrel
Excellent video.
Thanks!
Wonder if they lend themselves in use in a paper cartridge with a dipped lube bullet. I have had ignition issues with pyrdex in the past.
It seems that there would always be a gap between the powder and the ball in these revolvers. The loading lever for all of them only press the ball down about an inch, and a standard 30 grain powder charge or pellet is another inch if that. The cylinder is at least 3 inches. It doesn't make much sense to me that they make these loading levers so small, I'm nervous to shoot my loaded 1858 Pietta that has a 30 grain Pyrodex pellet, a wonderwad, and ball in each chamber. Any advice from the long time bp revolver veterans would be much appreciated!
You should be fine with that load. The cylinder isn’t quite that big and some of it is taken up by the length of the nipple threading. Even in the big Colt Walker, I typically only use 40 grains of powder and it’s fine.
Thanks for watching!
@@GunsOfTheWest Thanks for the reply!
I've noticed that many cylinder conversions say that you cannot shoot 45 colt that's faster than 850 fps which is 400ft lbs of energy, but it says your balls are going faster than 1200 fps which is 500ft lbs of energy. Are they just being over cautious with their warnings or is there something I'm missing out on?
You're missing the projectile weight. Muzzle energy is velocity and weight. A lighter bullet going faster than a heavier bullet may have the same energy.
Round ball is just about the lightest solid projectile you can get. A .45 round ball weighs 140 grains, which is the same mass you will find in the conical bullet of a .38 Special.
I have a question for you. I can not find these pellets anywhere. The .50 grain rifle pellets sure, but not the 30 grain revolver pellets. Can you suggest a source?
I almost always see them at Sportsman’s Warehouse, which is where I bought them. It seems like I’ve also seen them at Cabela’s, but I’m not positive.
@@GunsOfTheWest Ok I found them at SPortsmans warehouse. Almost missed them, they seem to have changed the packaging. Instead of the plastic box they are now in a little tin canister. (Or that is what the picture looks like at any rate). Thanks much.
Thanx for the advice on the chronograph testing.
Would these work in cartridges like 44-40?
Do you need a cap to shoot a black powder gun with pellets
No, you can load loose powder and ball, or you can use paper cartridges.
gunsoftheweststore.com/collections/complete-paper-cartridge-kits