This is exactly what I was looking for, great video mate! £160.00 I was quoted for work to be done. Now I’ll tackle this job after watching your video. Thanks for uploading to inspire others!
Thanks mate. Id been reading people on the facebook club try and explain but you've really helped me and a lot of people here. May i suggest a gofundme for this kind of video. Id be happy chucking a few quid your way for the time and effort youve put in. And the massive savings for everyone!
Don't actually need spring compressors on these, spring isn't under tension when out the van. I'm a vauxhall tech working on these vans day in day out. Excellent work though mate 👍
I changed my top shock bearings and replaced them with taper roller bearings, they are still going strong after 140000 miles, they also take the impact from pot holes better as they take the upward force from the strut unlike the Renault bearings.
Please What taper roller bearings did you use as I been trying to find some for when I lower my van was going to do it at same time and was looking at using different sort
Jack, I,ve done this all, and my vans passed MoT, can't find anything wrong with entire suspension, but still makes knocking noise on rough roads, and vibrates through steering, what can this be please? Exactly same as your van, thnx Brian (Dover)
Hello, good, I hope you can help me, I have a Renault Trafic well because I can't find the solution and I hope you can help me, thanks in advance for the video, I explain that when you turn the steering wheel and especially to the right and at slow speed everything vibrates. the steering wheel to the dashboard, when you turn two thirds of the steering wheel or when you are doing a maneuver, if you accelerate it a little you don't notice the vibration at all. The fact is that if you go on the road, it turns, etc., it works well only in reletin or when you are doing a maneuver. The oil has been changed, the filter has been cleaned, it has a new ball joint, but I have seen that the top part of the shock absorber is a little bit out as in the video and I don't know if the duct part should be closed all the way down to the base part. of the shock absorber, could it be the cups that are bad in my case?
have completed top shock mount due to bearing failure any idea why i have 20mm gap at the top when loaded with wieght seems sock rod is too long will drive ok on test
Yeah I have the same issue since I changed the top mounts. Have you managed to sort this out? Spoke to Vauxhall and they said all top mounts are the same thinking I had brought the wrong ones or something. Vauxhall said some vans come with different springs, is yours a LWB by any chance?
@@TheStressD no mate SWB the springs are the only thing i have not changed the only other thing i can think of if it has anything to do with the assembly of the strut ie tension on the half nut that holds every thing together
@@georgecroker4911 Its weird that quite a few people share the same issue, I wonder what it could be. I read somewhere it could be due to a couple of bolts in the subframe but they weren't specific which wasn't exactly helpful.
Are you sure you installed the bearing in the correct direction? In the manufacturer's images, it looks like the protruding central part should be facing upwards.
Is it worth doing both at the same time? Or just do when they go? I thought I was getting a cracking noise through my cv as recently had to fit a new boot clip,but looking at the start of your video my top mounts look similar to that,drivers side too. Great help this video, thanks 👍
Cheers, I did both but the drivers side has a factory drain fault, when it rains it runs on to the mount. If you have your tools out for 1 side, why not do both 👍
Hello, at 8,23 mins if you zoom into the original bearing it shows the shoulder was facing upright. And then when fitting you have fit it facing down. Whys that? Thanks.
Ive just changed one today that i had done 4 months ago and i put it the way you and alot of others explain to do it. But i also have a photo of the inner race of the bearing. And the shoulde or stepped side has a thin piece of material to hold the balls into it. But on the flat side of it there is 3mm of material to hold the ball in. And because i fit the bearing stepped side down it collapsed.
Ah ok. Im just asking as ive changed these 4 months ago and did what i was told by others and it failed. I am a mechanic myself but everydays a school day no matter how long you are at it. Thanks for your replys.
Thank you for getting back to me I've just done both all the same as the video even got an old mechanic to have a look but my black top rubbers are over an inch away from the body work and every one on the vivaro groups saying its normal so confusing
@@Dji.nut.86 have the same issue, the plate that goes in top of the buttresses theres like a 10mm+ gap and it doesn't look right. Did you manage to find out what the issue is?
Only if you remove caliper or loosen banjo on it which you don't need to do unless your a twit so no don't open braking system don't need to bleed etc 🫡
Thanks for the video. I've just replaced mine this morning. Saved me a few quid. Top man.
This is exactly what I was looking for, great video mate! £160.00 I was quoted for work to be done. Now I’ll tackle this job after watching your video. Thanks for uploading to inspire others!
Probably the best video on the change of top mount vivaro
Cheers mate 👍
Thanks mate. Id been reading people on the facebook club try and explain but you've really helped me and a lot of people here. May i suggest a gofundme for this kind of video. Id be happy chucking a few quid your way for the time and effort youve put in. And the massive savings for everyone!
Cheers mate exactly what I needed just to see what’s involved top bloke
Thanx for video.....I have got exact same problem in my vivaro , which I can fix now myself.
Great tutorial.. to the point and all the key points I needed to know...
Jobs a gooden.👍👍👍
Don't actually need spring compressors on these, spring isn't under tension when out the van. I'm a vauxhall tech working on these vans day in day out. Excellent work though mate 👍
Thanks for the video Jack, doing it this weekend. 👍
Thankyou for this video, going to do mine this week now thanks to you!
That went well 👍 ive now subscribed for any more stuff on the vivaro
Thank you buddy, exactly the info I needed. I can order the parts now. Cheers
I changed my top shock bearings and replaced them with taper roller bearings, they are still going strong after 140000 miles, they also take the impact from pot holes better as they take the upward force from the strut unlike the Renault bearings.
Please What taper roller bearings did you use as I been trying to find some for when I lower my van was going to do it at same time and was looking at using different sort
Excellent video… my job next weekend!
Brilliant, this is what i needed, now il do it myelf. Thanks.👍
Brilliant video many thanks 🙏
thankyou for the video, going to do mine this week A+++
Just about to do mine great tutorial!
How did you get on?
My hero, thanks boss! Made my day.
Thank you for the informative tutorial.
top job, thanks, doing mine tomorrow.
Merci pour votre explication
Jack, I,ve done this all, and my vans passed MoT, can't find anything wrong with entire suspension, but still makes knocking noise on rough roads, and vibrates through steering, what can this be please? Exactly same as your van, thnx Brian (Dover)
I'm no mechanic, but my wheel bearing did the same? I changed the hub. Other than that I have no idea. Hope you get it sorted
@@iknowjack4693 Thanks, it looks like a strut which the sub chassis bit hangs from the main chassis.
Hello, good, I hope you can help me, I have a Renault Trafic well because I can't find the solution and I hope you can help me, thanks in advance for the video, I explain that when you turn the steering wheel and especially to the right and at slow speed everything vibrates. the steering wheel to the dashboard, when you turn two thirds of the steering wheel or when you are doing a maneuver, if you accelerate it a little you don't notice the vibration at all. The fact is that if you go on the road, it turns, etc., it works well only in reletin or when you are doing a maneuver. The oil has been changed, the filter has been cleaned, it has a new ball joint, but I have seen that the top part of the shock absorber is a little bit out as in the video and I don't know if the duct part should be closed all the way down to the base part. of the shock absorber, could it be the cups that are bad in my case?
Do you need to get the tracking done after this job? thanks.
Will be attempting soon! I need to get a coil compressor, can you recommend one? Great video, thanks!
Thanks, I only reccomend NOT buying cheap compressors , they can be dangerous. Good luck with changing yours, it's not very hard
@@iknowjack4693 thanks. Is £40 cheap? Need to track rod ends at same time, looks easy enough.
@@thepenrice1402 that sounds a good price. Track rod ends are easy too. 👍
have completed top shock mount due to bearing failure any idea why i have 20mm gap at the top when loaded with wieght seems sock rod is too long will drive ok on test
Yeah I have the same issue since I changed the top mounts. Have you managed to sort this out? Spoke to Vauxhall and they said all top mounts are the same thinking I had brought the wrong ones or something. Vauxhall said some vans come with different springs, is yours a LWB by any chance?
@@TheStressD no mate SWB the springs are the only thing i have not changed the only other thing i can think of if it has anything to do with the assembly of the strut ie tension on the half nut that holds every thing together
@@georgecroker4911 Its weird that quite a few people share the same issue, I wonder what it could be. I read somewhere it could be due to a couple of bolts in the subframe but they weren't specific which wasn't exactly helpful.
Very helpful. Thanks.
Nice one bro, cheers heaps 🙏
Garage quoted £580 to do one top strut two drop bar links and two outer tie rods i think ill give it ago myself.
Thank you
I have changed the same as video but still have gaps on mounts under the bonnet there not sitting nice , any ideas why please
I have a small gap on mine too. Not sure why but makes no difference. Maybe ask a specialists and leave an updated post 👍
After reading the renault forum, there is supposed to be a small gap
Ok thanks jack appreciate the help
Are you sure you installed the bearing in the correct direction? In the manufacturer's images, it looks like the protruding central part should be facing upwards.
What are the symptoms of a bad bearing clunking when turning I thought was drop links changed them still clunking drivers side
Exactly that, clanking, it's easy to take out to inspect if not sure
@@iknowjack4693 thanks will give it a bash
Is it worth doing both at the same time? Or just do when they go? I thought I was getting a cracking noise through my cv as recently had to fit a new boot clip,but looking at the start of your video my top mounts look similar to that,drivers side too.
Great help this video, thanks 👍
Cheers, I did both but the drivers side has a factory drain fault, when it rains it runs on to the mount. If you have your tools out for 1 side, why not do both 👍
Hello, at 8,23 mins if you zoom into the original bearing it shows the shoulder was facing upright. And then when fitting you have fit it facing down. Whys that? Thanks.
The original bearing was destroyed. Have a look at a pdf drawing. It should show the correct way
Ive just changed one today that i had done 4 months ago and i put it the way you and alot of others explain to do it. But i also have a photo of the inner race of the bearing. And the shoulde or stepped side has a thin piece of material to hold the balls into it. But on the flat side of it there is 3mm of material to hold the ball in. And because i fit the bearing stepped side down it collapsed.
@@Davidjg23 dont know why yours collapsed, I did it the way I was told by a mechanic
Ah ok. Im just asking as ive changed these 4 months ago and did what i was told by others and it failed. I am a mechanic myself but everydays a school day no matter how long you are at it. Thanks for your replys.
Super pozdrawiam 👍
Was your top rubber washer in the engine bay tight against the body work when you were finished
No there was a small gap.
Thank you for getting back to me I've just done both all the same as the video even got an old mechanic to have a look but my black top rubbers are over an inch away from the body work and every one on the vivaro groups saying its normal so confusing
@@Dji.nut.86 yeah, that was the response I got when querying the gap. I have had no issues since doing mine. 👍
I'm sure I'll figure it out eventually thank you for the responds your videos are mega helpful 👍
@@Dji.nut.86 have the same issue, the plate that goes in top of the buttresses theres like a 10mm+ gap and it doesn't look right. Did you manage to find out what the issue is?
Would you have to breed your brakes after
Only if you remove caliper or loosen banjo on it which you don't need to do unless your a twit so no don't open braking system don't need to bleed etc 🫡
I did mine and there was still a big gap at top? Dont no if the after market strut baring is thinner than origional or what??
A gap is fine and normal
merci depuis la France
Isle of man