I appreciate the explanation of the new technology in the Ondra comp. Much as I love LaSpo, they really haven't done a good job of explaining what exactly SenseGrip _is._
I don’t think the name ‘SenseGrip’ does a particularly good job of describing what it does either. Hopefully we did a reasonable job of lifting a lid on what it actually is 🤞
the market shifted towards indoor climbing so much.Which is understandable, when you see the amount of people in climbing gyms. I am eager to see some new outdoor high performence outdoor stiff shoe, that you can take to cracks and multipitch.
The standout within the last couple of years is probably the Scarpa Generator. You're quite right though, the focus is definitely on the indoor market at the moment, which is why it's especially nice when you see something specifically designed for trad!!
I'm incredibly impressed with the Ocun Ozone for Bishop area Bouldering, they fit and climb very similar to the Sportiva Otaki for me in the same size. . . and are incredibly affordable in the states.
Omggggg yes finally a scarpa LV!! I have such a small heel but a 46 street shoe size that finding a shoe that fits it is nearly impossible (The only ones that were ok-ish were the Ocun Bullet and the La Sportiva Skwama)
Maybe the underdog, but I hope i can try the Red Chili next year. Had already the Voltage II and was suprised how confi it is, but still perform good on the wall. And the Price is not so high.
We'll get some videos out about the new stuff towards the beginning of 2025, don't you worry! EpicTV has some videos on some of our newer stuff as well!
It's interesting to see the new state of the art rubbers that the brand offers but most of these aren't offered from resolers yet which puts me off trying anything other than what I know I can get resoled in the UK
I'm just guessing here, but maybe the logic is the same as La Sportiva has. LS women shoes are softer, keeping in mind that average woman weighs less. Maybe women's VS are a bit softer, while VSR LV has the same stiffness as regular VSR
@@MrStillfree69 No, the VSR LV is definetely softer than the VSR blue. The blue are fairly known to be insensitive and stiff while the VSR LV change it totally. It's not a Drago kind but it's closer than it than the VSR blue. It smear way better. The LV are also way softer than the Instinct VS WMN. You can bend the VSR LV with one hand with EASE when you have to quite fight for it with the VS WMN. The heel is also softer in feeling. Should be downsized at least -2 from street shoe for the VSR LV.
Should have a skinner heel cup with the tension on the heel being higher up on the ankle/achilles making it deeper heel cup making it fit a different heel profile than current Instinct range. Also tucked the toe hooking rubber under the textile upper to prevent it from peeling off.
i talked to the representive of scarpa germany a while back and one of the things they do when goin from "womans" to "low volume" is actually producing it in all sizes. ie the old scarpa instinct vs w or whatever its called was never accessible in larger sizes than 42.5 eu or sth like that
ive done my survey and research, according to scarpa, 'Women' model, has shorter/narrower heel to accommodate women heel. Whereas LV has BOTH shorter/narrower heel AND lower foot volume.
It will be down to manufacturers who want to use new better materials to make shoes better for us. I do understand it's expensive but at least it makes you look after your shoes more and even get them resoled once or twice.
I think some of the gyms have already gotten the vsr lv a couple of weeks ago together with drago XT, not sure if it’s only for display or selling as well tho
@@ukclimbingofficial yeah I thought so too, that’s why I was a bit shocked when some of my climber friends tried them on at a climbing gym (from unboxing to trying on wall)😂. But also could be releasing based on regions
I'm a BD Method S user, and i would say the outsole finishing is quite poor. The rubber overlaps at the tip of the shoe, and when you accidentally smear upwards with it, it will peel VERY easily. My shoe lost it's downturn profile after 3 months, it is basically a flat shoe now lol. Other than that, the shoe is very comfortable because of the knit inner
I didn't experience any issues with the finishing back when I reviewed them. When it comes to how down-turned they are, that all comes down to the tensioning, and once-again - that's not something I had an issue with. If you look at most soft shoes, very few have a down-turned profile, but when you put them on - that's when the magic happens.
I don’t think they’re producing any climbing shoes currently, so there’s nothing to show. We keep wondering if they’ll ever be back again, but who knows 🤷🏼♂️
We are so due for new Tenaya shoes. If they made a Mastia with an Oasi style heel it’d be a game changer
Historically Tenaya haven’t released anywhere near as many shoes as their competitors, preferring a slow and steady approach to development
I agree with you. Love the mastia, but that heel doesn’t let me do certain heel hooks bc of the ball design
If Tenaya could figure out some consistency in their sizing I'd love them. . .
Thank you for talking about both width and height volume 🎉
I appreciate the explanation of the new technology in the Ondra comp. Much as I love LaSpo, they really haven't done a good job of explaining what exactly SenseGrip _is._
I don’t think the name ‘SenseGrip’ does a particularly good job of describing what it does either. Hopefully we did a reasonable job of lifting a lid on what it actually is 🤞
the market shifted towards indoor climbing so much.Which is understandable, when you see the amount of people in climbing gyms. I am eager to see some new outdoor high performence outdoor stiff shoe, that you can take to cracks and multipitch.
Daniel woods new pro evolv
The standout within the last couple of years is probably the Scarpa Generator. You're quite right though, the focus is definitely on the indoor market at the moment, which is why it's especially nice when you see something specifically designed for trad!!
Great video. Would love a similar one on harnesses and other climbing equipment
I'm incredibly impressed with the Ocun Ozone for Bishop area Bouldering, they fit and climb very similar to the Sportiva Otaki for me in the same size. . . and are incredibly affordable in the states.
Good feedback. Very jealous of you bouldering in Bishop. What a place…
still waiting for the Tenaya Mastia LV
It’d be great to see those come to market
Omggggg yes finally a scarpa LV!! I have such a small heel but a 46 street shoe size that finding a shoe that fits it is nearly impossible (The only ones that were ok-ish were the Ocun Bullet and the La Sportiva Skwama)
What size are you using in LS? I wear a 47 street and my La Sportivas are 42,5/43.
I have a small heel and a 45 street shoe, The Skwama heel feels GIANT to me. I’m stoked for the VSR LV as an all arounder alternative
Maybe the underdog, but I hope i can try the Red Chili next year. Had already the Voltage II and was suprised how confi it is, but still perform good on the wall. And the Price is not so high.
Yes love my Voltage II. These new ones look like exactly what I've been wanting from Red Chili!
Would love a review of some of Evolvs shoe range. They are great shoes but don’t get spoken about sadly.
We'll get some videos out about the new stuff towards the beginning of 2025, don't you worry! EpicTV has some videos on some of our newer stuff as well!
@ Hell yeah, looking forward to it 🥳
We're always keen to work together and the door is always open
@@ukclimbingofficialget in there Evolv!
@@EvolvWorldwideI love my v6’s
It's interesting to see the new state of the art rubbers that the brand offers but most of these aren't offered from resolers yet which puts me off trying anything other than what I know I can get resoled in the UK
Yes, most resolers just offer Vibram XS Grip or XS Edge and not the wider array of other brand specific rubbers (e.g. S70, RS/RH, Black Label etc...)
So what’s the difference between the VSR LV and the woman’s VS?
I'm just guessing here, but maybe the logic is the same as La Sportiva has. LS women shoes are softer, keeping in mind that average woman weighs less. Maybe women's VS are a bit softer, while VSR LV has the same stiffness as regular VSR
@@MrStillfree69 No, the VSR LV is definetely softer than the VSR blue. The blue are fairly known to be insensitive and stiff while the VSR LV change it totally. It's not a Drago kind but it's closer than it than the VSR blue. It smear way better. The LV are also way softer than the Instinct VS WMN. You can bend the VSR LV with one hand with EASE when you have to quite fight for it with the VS WMN. The heel is also softer in feeling.
Should be downsized at least -2 from street shoe for the VSR LV.
Should have a skinner heel cup with the tension on the heel being higher up on the ankle/achilles making it deeper heel cup making it fit a different heel profile than current Instinct range. Also tucked the toe hooking rubber under the textile upper to prevent it from peeling off.
i talked to the representive of scarpa germany a while back and one of the things they do when goin from "womans" to "low volume" is actually producing it in all sizes. ie the old scarpa instinct vs w or whatever its called was never accessible in larger sizes than 42.5 eu or sth like that
ive done my survey and research, according to scarpa, 'Women' model, has shorter/narrower heel to accommodate women heel.
Whereas LV has BOTH shorter/narrower heel AND lower foot volume.
Insane how expensive climbing shoes are these days. MSRP > $200 USD is wild.
It’s a sign of the times unfortunately 🤷🏼♂️
It will be down to manufacturers who want to use new better materials to make shoes better for us. I do understand it's expensive but at least it makes you look after your shoes more and even get them resoled once or twice.
I think some of the gyms have already gotten the vsr lv a couple of weeks ago together with drago XT, not sure if it’s only for display or selling as well tho
I thought the Drago XT were arriving next year, but will double check on Monday. Could be that they’re arriving in different countries sooner 🤔
@@ukclimbingofficial yeah I thought so too, that’s why I was a bit shocked when some of my climber friends tried them on at a climbing gym (from unboxing to trying on wall)😂. But also could be releasing based on regions
I'm a BD Method S user, and i would say the outsole finishing is quite poor. The rubber overlaps at the tip of the shoe, and when you accidentally smear upwards with it, it will peel VERY easily.
My shoe lost it's downturn profile after 3 months, it is basically a flat shoe now lol.
Other than that, the shoe is very comfortable because of the knit inner
I didn't experience any issues with the finishing back when I reviewed them. When it comes to how down-turned they are, that all comes down to the tensioning, and once-again - that's not something I had an issue with. If you look at most soft shoes, very few have a down-turned profile, but when you put them on - that's when the magic happens.
do you know when in 2025 the synergy and the up float is coming out
Spring 2025, so - with a bit of luck - it’ll be sometime around March. If we’re less lucky, later…
Are the VSR LV's coming out this November or November 2025?
This November 🙂
what is the difference between the new instincts und the womens vsr?
Where is the new scappa drago 😢
Don’t worry, it’s coming - Spring 2025
Drago XT? :(
It’s still coming, we just decided to focus on the Instinct VSR LV as a result of it being available sooner
where is all the MadRock
Mad Rock don’t have a presence in the UK currently, although we believe it’s coming soon - so watch this space 👀
No five ten is hilarious. Good on you UK Climbing. F Adidas
I don’t think they’re producing any climbing shoes currently, so there’s nothing to show. We keep wondering if they’ll ever be back again, but who knows 🤷🏼♂️
So there is no laces shoes... In my opinion they are superior than Velcro shoes
In terms of getting a precision fit, there’s nothing better than laces 👍
climbers have become softer and more sensitive if the shoes they wear are anything to go by.
and stronger, too 💪
@@ukclimbingofficial stickier?
Is anyone bringing a TC Pro competitor to market? Preferably one that fits into narrow cracks well?
Worth checking out our review of the Scarpa Generator: ua-cam.com/video/iq6T27mw1PI/v-deo.html
Also the Evolv Yosemite Bum, and my favourite (albeit slighty different) Tenaya Masai
😴
Was that a Drago XT on the Scarpa wall? Do they have any release info for that shoe?
I think it’s due to be released in Spring 2025, so - at a guess - sometime around March (if we’re lucky) 🤞