Xian is so great at articulating fundamental technique and how it affects movement. Prob the best at it of any of the coaches you’ve ever had featured. She is such a masterful teacher.
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Have you considered a regular series with Xian? I think she's the best movement teacher I've seen since watching the Masterclass series by Neil Gresham.
I second that. It's always a wonderful skill for any kind of teacher to be able to articulate complex concepts in simple terms, and I feel she did that excellently.
Wow, Xian is Super Awesome!!! The way she explained things are just so clear and precise, i'll rank her as the best coach i've seen so far. Definitely bookmarking this video and sharing it with others as needed. Thank you Hannah and team for making such high quality instructional videos available to us 🙏
very interesting seeing a small and big shoe comparison - that explains why me and my small feet might like foot chips/slabby/balancey climbing more than someone with bigger feet... had never previously considered shoe size as a factor, but it's just like how height changes our style/strengths/weaknesses/preference I guess.
I hadn’t considered it either but it makes a lot of sense! I’ve always thought about it in relation to grip preference, but never foot placement - interesting stuff!
Great video. My preference would be 1/3 theory to 2/3 practical trying and learning. Thanks for a fantastic channel and all the effort and planning you put into it.
Yes, I really enjoyed this style of video with the mixture of theory and practical. As a newer climber, the videos on more techniques and principles are really useful. Of course, the jumping around stuff is super fun to watch too, even if it is not possible at the moment, there is always something to learn. Brilliant channel, thanks for your great work.
This was a really helpful video!! It would be awesome to see more videos explaining how to read holds, the best and worst positions on those holds, etc. Thanks for the tips!
This is actually amazing. First time at the gym I was so sketched out to put all my Weight on a particular foothold with my toes. I watched someone use the outside edge of the shoe and I was able to do it no problem, didn’t even feel as sketchy and you just confirmed it for me. Ha. Love it.
Thank you for talking about the 2.0 drones! I've been constantly on the look out for shipping to the UK, excited to be able to finally try a pair. The OG drones were my favourite shoe, but durability was always an issue. Hopefully the 2.0 lasts a bit longer!
Oooh interesting! I’ve been in my CS Drones for 5ish months now and they seem pretty durable so far, but the real test will be if Nathan goes though the toe knuckle like he usually does with climbing shoes 🥲 I’ve never tried the OG. I’ve also found the Rover great for comfy sessions where I just want to get training milage in with a less performance focused shoe.
that was mind blowing - espeically the ending comparing larger vs smaller shoes - larger need more stability for comfort climbing and smaller require move movement just to complete routes - imagine a big person who can effectively use their pivot point, those moves could be massive!
Thanks so much. It’s a joint effort between Nathan and me- we’re lucky that we get to have two creative inputs from the both of us to keep things varied ☺️
I used Xians tips today to crack a problem I've been stuck on for weeks! Just needed to find that pivot point and it unlocked everything! Thank you for bringing us these great videos Hannah, and thank you Xian for your helpful tips!
I totally understand what she's saying, but I've got to say I've used my head, chest, back, elbows, and knees as a fifth point of contact lol. Nothing like a head smear to stabilise while you clip on a run out slab :p
Great video! I got some good tips and insights out of this for sure. I agree with what's been said earlier in the comments though: slightly less theory (maybe 1/3 instead of 1/2). However that's not to say that the bit of theory that will get 'left out' isn't useful, but maybe it's better suited for another format, like shorts? That would maybe make the total big video under 25 min which would probably increase the click rate as well and help with the overall pacing. Also: Casual Louis feature haha
I’ll be blunt: I’m fat (a little over 200 lbs/91 kg/14 stone) and have been struggling with trusting my feet while bouldering. Now having techniques that will help my center of gravity stay close to the wall, I’m really excited to try my (V0 lol) projects again with more confidence. Thanks Coach Xian! :D
Update: I sprained my ankle the same day I made this comment. I can now say I've learned the hard way that you always need to wrap tape around a bandaid before climbing. Recovery feels slow but is going well!
Awesome video! Great tips, What I would have also liked to see would be how to step on dualtex foot holes. I can’t for the life of me step on those shiny holds! 😂
Question on the mad rock shoes -- I believe Hannah you climbed with Skwamas before. Are the sizings comparable ? Did you have to size up or down ? Love love love your videos :)
Yesssss I did. I downsized a lot in the Skwama's - I'm street shoe 5 and wore 3. In the Mad Rocks I wear 5, so bang on my street shoe and I'd say that's perfect. I could MAYBE go down a half size, but I wouldn't say much more. Glad to hear you enjoy the channel :)
So I have a question for any climber reading this. I started climbing about 2,5 months ago and it seems like I'm currently getting stuck at 6A/6B and I have a rough time getting past that. I know there's a lot of technique I'm currently missing, but there are loads of boulders with horrible crimps that I just cannot even get started on because I don't have the finger strength yet. I've had to use some of those before, and I succeeded with quite some trouble. But past the point of 6A/6B it seems like these horrible holds are suddenly getting way more frequent and way worse. On some of them I can hardly even get moving from the starting position because of it. Currently I just feel like I need to keep climbing 3 times a week and be patient until I get the finger strength I need and simply focus on my technique in the meantime. Am I correct or am I missing something? Is there perhaps something else I can do to speed up the process, or will that just end up injuring me?
I'm really considering the Drones for next shoe and I'm primarily an indoor boulderer who's mainly used thin shoes in the past. I just wondered if you would recommend the CS version and how much you would recommend downsizing as I've heard conflicting ideas. Thanks!
The CS is the shoe I wear most regularly, and I’d recommend if you’re climbing indoors a lot. I don’t downsize at all. I’m a street 5 (US 6) and go bang on 5 in the CS HV. I could probably get away with a half size down, now that they’re worn in, but it took me a fair bit to get them worn in so 5 seems right. Hope that helps! ☺️
Hello folks! I have an unusual question and would be interested in your experiences: As I have a slight foot deformity, I often have problems in everyday shoes, and if they don't fit well, they also hurt quickly. As a result, I switched to wearing toe or barefoot shoes a while ago. I realise that climbing shoes should be tight and fit well. However, classic climbing shoes don't work for me, or I would have to choose shoes that are much too big because otherwise my toes would push over each other. Does anyone have any experience or ideas for climbing shoes or similar that don't squeeze the toes? (Also toe shoes etc.) In the past I had Vibram Fivefingers (VI-B), but unfortunately they were not at all designed for the strain on the wall and the sole didn't convince me at all.. Thank you!
This is a really helpful video thank you! Are there any mad rock shoes which are good for beginners looking to get their first pair rather than getting rental shoes? Or for people with tapered toes/'egyptian' feet where the big toe is longest?
Glad you enjoyed it. I'm not so sure about the foot shape, but for a first pair, I'd say the Rovers are a good fit. Depending on where you are, I'd try on a pair - I find them comfortable and durable, and the rubber coverage is great :)
Do you know which drone model? I see HV and LV plus different versions in that color. I need some smear shoes to replace my Butoras that 6 months later still totally stiff.
The Drone CS HV is the model I’ve been enjoying for indoor bouldering. I have both the Drone Cs and 2.0, but I’d say compared to the Drone 2.0, the CS HV is a little more flexible and softer for smearing and volumes etc. 😊
Hey everyone. What did you think of this week’s video format? We worked with Xian to present a full workshop on slab and vertical footwork, starting with half a session on theory, and leading into half a session as a coaching clinic with Hannah and I. Let us know if this worked for you.
These are extremely helpful for me! Especially as someone who hasn’t received any formal climbing training. I’m sure I’ll be coming back to these tips. Thanks for sharing the workshop!!
The last section where Xian demonstrated why the pivot toe made more sense even though the edge seemed to feel better was IMMENSELY helpful. She explained her rationale and demonstrated so clearly.
I always love sessions with Xian! And Nathan's point about preferring to use edges because it feels like it gets the hips close to the wall really resonated with me. I wonder how many climbs I've made unnecessarily difficult because I didn't want to use my pivot point?
this is soooo incredibly helpful. really like the format to put theory into application and then talk about it and push it even more. was just telling my coach about how hard i find it to swap feet - will now be thinking about edges and pivot points!
Awesome video!! The comparisons and explanations before and after learning the techniques were so helpful! One thing I'm encountering is the inability to hold myself on the tiny footholds with my toes, they bend like i would while walking and my foot falls off. Either my foot strength is not there yet, or shoes are too soft, probably both. Haven't seen anyone talk about foot strength yet?
Interesting you should mention in! We have a few things in the works about foot strength and health - it’s not something I’d really paid much attention to, but it makes sense that it’s really important when we’re climbing for slab and vertical terrain especially!
When I think about the most important climbing channels for me, yours come to mind. it’s changed how I climb and learn any new skills. Being a learner feels great here in your community
🤩excited to watch this video thank you guys :)! Hannah, would you recommend getting some MadRock shoes( like yours) and would you recommend them for climbers who have had a lot of climbing experience or not very much? Thank you Hannah and Nathan, ☺️really enjoy watching all your videos you put out 😁❤️
Hope you get lots of valuable information from it. It really helped me, even after a decade of climbing. I’d absolutely recommend the Mad Rock range for climbers of all experiences. The Drones, which I’ve been wearing, are great but - might feel quite stiff depending on what you’re used to. If you’re looking for an all day, comfy shoe for indoor bouldering or sport climbing, I think the Rovers would be a great option - durable and comfy! ☺️
Nobody can tell you what type of shoe would be good for you specifically, and that depends on so much more than experience. The only sensible thing to do is to go to a well-stocked store with a good fitter and see what works and what doesn't.
Xian comes across as a great coach, she speaks pure wisdom and explains things in a way thats easy to understand. also very positive energy. cool vid thanks
Went to The Climbing Hangar in Reading last Wednesday and had to do a double-take when I saw you there recording! Really wanted to say hi, but didn’t want to interrupt. Been watching your bouldering videos since I first started back in August and they’ve helped a lot 😄
Amazing to see both purples in action, as they are my current projects! Fairly painful to see them so easily dispatched, but I'll take excellent those tips on board and hopefully that'll do it 😂
Thanks for yet another super useful masterclass - there are so many of your videos that have me coming out the back of them feeling like I actually understand climbing better than before, and this is no exception. Such useful advice, and applicable to so much! One thing that stood out to me that wasn't mentioned here: the importance of hip mobility to get the most out of your feet. As someone with terrible (and I do mean terrible! But working on it!) hip mobility, one of the main reasons to choose standing on an edge rather than the pivot point is often that I simply can't do the latter without pushing myself off the wall, as the more sideways edge stance allows for hips closer to the wall without major rotation of the hip joint. The same goes for the "dig in your toes" part - which also requires quite a bit of hip flexibility to get close enough to the wall to find stability, as without that most likely my knee would be hitting the wall and pushing me off. While I do wish this had been mentioned in the video, it's still super interesting to spot, and it kind of validates my feeling that some of the times when I feel like I'm either not strong enough or just can't find a good hold, it might actually be down to needing better mobility in order to get into the position I need. And, of course, practicing moves like these is a great way to work on that mobility!
Is there somewhere in the UK (London or south England mainly) where it's possible to try on Madrock shoes? Always wanted to try a pair but climbing shoe shape and size can be so fickle...
When should “beginners” invest in their own shoes rather than rentals? Would the drones be a good option for a first shoe or something else from Mad Rock?
It's amazing how much my glutes and quads ache the next day by just applying good foot technique, and how much happier my shoulders are. Great content as always!
Brilliant and very informative. Videos with Xian are a real treat. The best part is most of the problems used to demonstrate technique are still in the Hangar Reading 😍 can’t wait to try them with Xian’s tips
6 minutes in and I've already learned so much. One objection though, regarding the section at 06:00 Maybe it's my horrendous ankle mobility, but I don't believe that's how a foot is supposed to work/fold.
ngl, I clicked for the thumbnail cos I wanted to know what those amazing shoes are, but then I stayed for the amazing video (as usual) but forgot about the shoe😂 I wish there actually were shoes like that though :')
The footwork tip that I've gotten the most out of is that you're trying to pull the foot holds out of the wall. You're pushing upwards, but also sucking into the wall.
Very interesting point at the end about foot size. If you ever find any tall climbers with small feet or short climbers with big feet, it would be interesting to see a video on how that affects their climbing!
17:35 was such a good demonstration of what's going on with some of my own foot placement, body mechanics, and weight distribution, and it will be something that I focus on next time I go climbing. Thank you!
Thanks! I’m sure there’s some knee heath related tips to come out of my series with Coach Be later on this year. The sponsored segments are how I make the UA-cam channel my full time work - I know ads aren’t for everyone, but we very carefully select which brand partners we work with and they help to pay for the time it takes to create a free weekly video.
This is a true masterclass !! I learned so much and the format was really well thought ! Makes me want to change shoes for more flexible ones to experiment it all !
Xian is so great at articulating fundamental technique and how it affects movement. Prob the best at it of any of the coaches you’ve ever had featured. She is such a masterful teacher.
Really glad you enjoyed the content with Xian, she’s a very talented coach and brilliant to work with ☺️☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Have you considered a regular series with Xian? I think she's the best movement teacher I've seen since watching the Masterclass series by Neil Gresham.
I second that. It's always a wonderful skill for any kind of teacher to be able to articulate complex concepts in simple terms, and I feel she did that excellently.
Wow, Xian is Super Awesome!!! The way she explained things are just so clear and precise, i'll rank her as the best coach i've seen so far. Definitely bookmarking this video and sharing it with others as needed.
Thank you Hannah and team for making such high quality instructional videos available to us 🙏
I feel attacked couse it showd on my feed to quick
Haha! 🥹
very interesting seeing a small and big shoe comparison - that explains why me and my small feet might like foot chips/slabby/balancey climbing more than someone with bigger feet... had never previously considered shoe size as a factor, but it's just like how height changes our style/strengths/weaknesses/preference I guess.
I hadn’t considered it either but it makes a lot of sense! I’ve always thought about it in relation to grip preference, but never foot placement - interesting stuff!
Great video. My preference would be 1/3 theory to 2/3 practical trying and learning. Thanks for a fantastic channel and all the effort and planning you put into it.
Hanna! Love the way your channel is maturing. Big props !!!
Thanks so much! We’re having fun with it 🥹
Yes, I really enjoyed this style of video with the mixture of theory and practical. As a newer climber, the videos on more techniques and principles are really useful. Of course, the jumping around stuff is super fun to watch too, even if it is not possible at the moment, there is always something to learn. Brilliant channel, thanks for your great work.
Awesome, thank you for the feedback! Glad you liked the video and enjoy the channel :)
This was a really helpful video!! It would be awesome to see more videos explaining how to read holds, the best and worst positions on those holds, etc. Thanks for the tips!
This is actually amazing. First time at the gym I was so sketched out to put all my Weight on a particular foothold with my toes.
I watched someone use the outside edge of the shoe and I was able to do it no problem, didn’t even feel as sketchy and you just confirmed it for me. Ha. Love it.
Xian was a great teacher and I really liked the examples before and after implementing her tips. Thanks!
Glad to hear it 😀
Thank you for talking about the 2.0 drones! I've been constantly on the look out for shipping to the UK, excited to be able to finally try a pair. The OG drones were my favourite shoe, but durability was always an issue. Hopefully the 2.0 lasts a bit longer!
Oooh interesting! I’ve been in my CS Drones for 5ish months now and they seem pretty durable so far, but the real test will be if Nathan goes though the toe knuckle like he usually does with climbing shoes 🥲
I’ve never tried the OG. I’ve also found the Rover great for comfy sessions where I just want to get training milage in with a less performance focused shoe.
that was mind blowing - espeically the ending comparing larger vs smaller shoes - larger need more stability for comfort climbing and smaller require move movement just to complete routes - imagine a big person who can effectively use their pivot point, those moves could be massive!
I love xiang. I always learn a lot from her videos!
Your production quality is reallllly good!
Love to see the progression not just in climbing Hannah!
Thanks so much. It’s a joint effort between Nathan and me- we’re lucky that we get to have two creative inputs from the both of us to keep things varied ☺️
I used Xians tips today to crack a problem I've been stuck on for weeks! Just needed to find that pivot point and it unlocked everything! Thank you for bringing us these great videos Hannah, and thank you Xian for your helpful tips!
Great to hear the tips were helpful for your project! 🙌
Great to hear the tips were helpful for your project! 🙌
That's the best footwork tutorial on YT. Thanks!
Wow, thanks!
I desperately need this video
I totally understand what she's saying, but I've got to say I've used my head, chest, back, elbows, and knees as a fifth point of contact lol. Nothing like a head smear to stabilise while you clip on a run out slab :p
Hahhaha, it's the chin hook for me! :D
Just back from a session. What better way to round it off? Tea ☕, cake 🥧, and a Hannah video 📹! 👌
PS Love your jumper!
Sounds perfect! Hope you enjoy and hope you had a fun session. 😇
Feel sorry I have to repeat myself but this channel is so enjoyable.
Hehe I don’t mind hearing it 😇😇🥳
Another great and very helpful video. Xian is great at explaining what you are demonstrating
Thanks for watching!
Great video! I got some good tips and insights out of this for sure. I agree with what's been said earlier in the comments though: slightly less theory (maybe 1/3 instead of 1/2). However that's not to say that the bit of theory that will get 'left out' isn't useful, but maybe it's better suited for another format, like shorts? That would maybe make the total big video under 25 min which would probably increase the click rate as well and help with the overall pacing.
Also: Casual Louis feature haha
Really excellent video, thank you!
You’re very welcome! Hope you find it useful for your next session ☺️
There was so much info here im going to need to watch this one again for it to sink in 😅
I’ll be blunt: I’m fat (a little over 200 lbs/91 kg/14 stone) and have been struggling with trusting my feet while bouldering. Now having techniques that will help my center of gravity stay close to the wall, I’m really excited to try my (V0 lol) projects again with more confidence. Thanks Coach Xian! :D
Update: I sprained my ankle the same day I made this comment. I can now say I've learned the hard way that you always need to wrap tape around a bandaid before climbing. Recovery feels slow but is going well!
great breakdown. will have to rewatch :)
I can't stand on tiny foot holds with my foot 90 degrees to the wall so I have to turn it side ways.
amazing video and soo helpful! thanks soo much
Glad you found it helpful 🥰
Awesome video, I learned a lot!
Really glad. Hope you find Xian’s tips helpful next time you’re climbing 🥳
Xian is the most delightful teacher. “Dododododo here”
Awesome video! Great tips, What I would have also liked to see would be how to step on dualtex foot holes. I can’t for the life of me step on those shiny holds! 😂
Haha, does anyone know how to stand on those 🫣
Question on the mad rock shoes -- I believe Hannah you climbed with Skwamas before. Are the sizings comparable ? Did you have to size up or down ? Love love love your videos :)
Yesssss I did. I downsized a lot in the Skwama's - I'm street shoe 5 and wore 3. In the Mad Rocks I wear 5, so bang on my street shoe and I'd say that's perfect. I could MAYBE go down a half size, but I wouldn't say much more. Glad to hear you enjoy the channel :)
Great info!👍
Glad it’s useful 😇
So I have a question for any climber reading this.
I started climbing about 2,5 months ago and it seems like I'm currently getting stuck at 6A/6B and I have a rough time getting past that. I know there's a lot of technique I'm currently missing, but there are loads of boulders with horrible crimps that I just cannot even get started on because I don't have the finger strength yet. I've had to use some of those before, and I succeeded with quite some trouble. But past the point of 6A/6B it seems like these horrible holds are suddenly getting way more frequent and way worse. On some of them I can hardly even get moving from the starting position because of it. Currently I just feel like I need to keep climbing 3 times a week and be patient until I get the finger strength I need and simply focus on my technique in the meantime. Am I correct or am I missing something? Is there perhaps something else I can do to speed up the process, or will that just end up injuring me?
Hey! Great tips! Quick question on the Mad Rock shoes… what’s the difference between HV and LV? Thanks!
HV is slightly boxier in fit, so a little wider than the LV version ☺️
I'm really considering the Drones for next shoe and I'm primarily an indoor boulderer who's mainly used thin shoes in the past. I just wondered if you would recommend the CS version and how much you would recommend downsizing as I've heard conflicting ideas. Thanks!
The CS is the shoe I wear most regularly, and I’d recommend if you’re climbing indoors a lot. I don’t downsize at all. I’m a street 5 (US 6) and go bang on 5 in the CS HV. I could probably get away with a half size down, now that they’re worn in, but it took me a fair bit to get them worn in so 5 seems right. Hope that helps! ☺️
Hello folks!
I have an unusual question and would be interested in your experiences:
As I have a slight foot deformity, I often have problems in everyday shoes, and if they don't fit well, they also hurt quickly.
As a result, I switched to wearing toe or barefoot shoes a while ago.
I realise that climbing shoes should be tight and fit well.
However, classic climbing shoes don't work for me, or I would have to choose shoes that are much too big because otherwise my toes would push over each other.
Does anyone have any experience or ideas for climbing shoes or similar that don't squeeze the toes? (Also toe shoes etc.)
In the past I had Vibram Fivefingers (VI-B), but unfortunately they were not at all designed for the strain on the wall and the sole didn't convince me at all..
Thank you!
"That is the hEEEL!!!"
This is a really helpful video thank you! Are there any mad rock shoes which are good for beginners looking to get their first pair rather than getting rental shoes? Or for people with tapered toes/'egyptian' feet where the big toe is longest?
Glad you enjoyed it. I'm not so sure about the foot shape, but for a first pair, I'd say the Rovers are a good fit. Depending on where you are, I'd try on a pair - I find them comfortable and durable, and the rubber coverage is great :)
ok now what if all those holds were overhanging, what then?
We convert overhang in a follow up video ☺️
The multi-color shoes in the thumbnail--are those real? I would kill for a pair like that.
Unfortunately not, it’s just to show the different parts of the shoe, but multi coloured shoes would be ace!
Do you know which drone model? I see HV and LV plus different versions in that color. I need some smear shoes to replace my Butoras that 6 months later still totally stiff.
The Drone CS HV is the model I’ve been enjoying for indoor bouldering. I have both the Drone Cs and 2.0, but I’d say compared to the Drone 2.0, the CS HV is a little more flexible and softer for smearing and volumes etc. 😊
Could be high volume and low volume fit. Like evolv shoes.
Hannah, your madrock sponsorship is showing 🤣
Cute human
Footwork? What even IS that?
Hey everyone. What did you think of this week’s video format?
We worked with Xian to present a full workshop on slab and vertical footwork, starting with half a session on theory, and leading into half a session as a coaching clinic with Hannah and I. Let us know if this worked for you.
I love this video, I i already sent it to a few friends and I think it'll help their footwork a lot.
Loved it!
10/10
@@dragonfire23141Awesome - appreciate it :)
These are extremely helpful for me! Especially as someone who hasn’t received any formal climbing training. I’m sure I’ll be coming back to these tips. Thanks for sharing the workshop!!
This was really helpful, thank you !!
I like the video as soon as I see Xian. She's the best coach in terms of explaining and letting you understand what to do
I think she’s a genius! Always so many 🤯🤯 moments during a session with Xian!
The last section where Xian demonstrated why the pivot toe made more sense even though the edge seemed to feel better was IMMENSELY helpful. She explained her rationale and demonstrated so clearly.
I always love sessions with Xian! And Nathan's point about preferring to use edges because it feels like it gets the hips close to the wall really resonated with me. I wonder how many climbs I've made unnecessarily difficult because I didn't want to use my pivot point?
It was a bit of a moment of realisation for Nathan, for sure! Just goes to show that you’re constantly learning new things as a climber! 💥
I was opposite. Learning to use my edge more not always point pivot.
Wow, this is the most detailed and well-explained video on footwork that I've seen! Really helpful, thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Xian seems so positive!
She is! 🥳🫶
this is soooo incredibly helpful. really like the format to put theory into application and then talk about it and push it even more. was just telling my coach about how hard i find it to swap feet - will now be thinking about edges and pivot points!
Ahhhh, super glad you found it so handy! Hopefully there’s lots of actionable advice for you to take into your next session ☺️⚡️
Xian is the best. 🥰
She’s such a great coach, and really lovely company 😎
No doubt about it. 😊
Also a very well structured, positive and helpful video. Loved it. 👍@@hannahmorrisbouldering
extremely helpful
I’m glad! 💥
Awesome video!! The comparisons and explanations before and after learning the techniques were so helpful! One thing I'm encountering is the inability to hold myself on the tiny footholds with my toes, they bend like i would while walking and my foot falls off. Either my foot strength is not there yet, or shoes are too soft, probably both. Haven't seen anyone talk about foot strength yet?
Interesting you should mention in! We have a few things in the works about foot strength and health - it’s not something I’d really paid much attention to, but it makes sense that it’s really important when we’re climbing for slab and vertical terrain especially!
When I think about the most important climbing channels for me, yours come to mind. it’s changed how I climb and learn any new skills. Being a learner feels great here in your community
🤩excited to watch this video thank you guys :)! Hannah, would you recommend getting some MadRock shoes( like yours) and would you recommend them for climbers who have had a lot of climbing experience or not very much? Thank you Hannah and Nathan, ☺️really enjoy watching all your videos you put out 😁❤️
I’m using Tenaya shoes at the moment but thinking about changing and about getting a pair of Mad Rock ones :)
Hope you get lots of valuable information from it. It really helped me, even after a decade of climbing. I’d absolutely recommend the Mad Rock range for climbers of all experiences. The Drones, which I’ve been wearing, are great but - might feel quite stiff depending on what you’re used to. If you’re looking for an all day, comfy shoe for indoor bouldering or sport climbing, I think the Rovers would be a great option - durable and comfy! ☺️
Thank you ☺️
Nobody can tell you what type of shoe would be good for you specifically, and that depends on so much more than experience. The only sensible thing to do is to go to a well-stocked store with a good fitter and see what works and what doesn't.
Awesome to see Xian is still around. Loved it back when she would show up on random climbing channels all the time.
Xian comes across as a great coach, she speaks pure wisdom and explains things in a way thats easy to understand. also very positive energy. cool vid thanks
Went to The Climbing Hangar in Reading last Wednesday and had to do a double-take when I saw you there recording! Really wanted to say hi, but didn’t want to interrupt. Been watching your bouldering videos since I first started back in August and they’ve helped a lot 😄
Really glad they’ve been helpful & hope you had a good session at TCH! It’s a great gym 🥰
PIVOT!!! PIVOT!!! PIVOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
🫶
Amazing to see both purples in action, as they are my current projects! Fairly painful to see them so easily dispatched, but I'll take excellent those tips on board and hopefully that'll do it 😂
Oh nice! Always cool when you can apply the tips in real life to a boulder you're familiar with. Hope the tips help :)
Thanks for yet another super useful masterclass - there are so many of your videos that have me coming out the back of them feeling like I actually understand climbing better than before, and this is no exception. Such useful advice, and applicable to so much!
One thing that stood out to me that wasn't mentioned here: the importance of hip mobility to get the most out of your feet. As someone with terrible (and I do mean terrible! But working on it!) hip mobility, one of the main reasons to choose standing on an edge rather than the pivot point is often that I simply can't do the latter without pushing myself off the wall, as the more sideways edge stance allows for hips closer to the wall without major rotation of the hip joint. The same goes for the "dig in your toes" part - which also requires quite a bit of hip flexibility to get close enough to the wall to find stability, as without that most likely my knee would be hitting the wall and pushing me off. While I do wish this had been mentioned in the video, it's still super interesting to spot, and it kind of validates my feeling that some of the times when I feel like I'm either not strong enough or just can't find a good hold, it might actually be down to needing better mobility in order to get into the position I need. And, of course, practicing moves like these is a great way to work on that mobility!
4:16
"steps on foothold"........................................IT`S MAM!
Is there somewhere in the UK (London or south England mainly) where it's possible to try on Madrock shoes? Always wanted to try a pair but climbing shoe shape and size can be so fickle...
Xian has such a kind, gentle teaching style. You can’t *help* but learn!
When should “beginners” invest in their own shoes rather than rentals? Would the drones be a good option for a first shoe or something else from Mad Rock?
This is great - one of the most informative videos I've seen on bouldering.
Really informative, especially the nuances of using the pivot point or outside edge, will have to experiment more next time i am climbing
Great to hear! Hope you find it actionable in your next sessions.
It's amazing how much my glutes and quads ache the next day by just applying good foot technique, and how much happier my shoulders are. Great content as always!
Thanks so much - glad you enjoyed it. :D
Brilliant and very informative. Videos with Xian are a real treat. The best part is most of the problems used to demonstrate technique are still in the Hangar Reading 😍 can’t wait to try them with Xian’s tips
Glad you enjoyed it! Hope you enjoy applying the tips. Some great new boulders from the Kendal Mountain Masters comp up too at the moment! ☺️
oh she is so lovely
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Hope you enjoy! ✅
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Awesome! That helps me realize that I must pay more attention to where and how I press on the hold!
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Great video! Thank you, will be looking at those shoes :D
6 minutes in and I've already learned so much. One objection though, regarding the section at 06:00 Maybe it's my horrendous ankle mobility, but I don't believe that's how a foot is supposed to work/fold.
ngl, I clicked for the thumbnail cos I wanted to know what those amazing shoes are, but then I stayed for the amazing video (as usual) but forgot about the shoe😂 I wish there actually were shoes like that though :')
The footwork tip that I've gotten the most out of is that you're trying to pull the foot holds out of the wall. You're pushing upwards, but also sucking into the wall.
Very interesting point at the end about foot size. If you ever find any tall climbers with small feet or short climbers with big feet, it would be interesting to see a video on how that affects their climbing!
Is it cold in the gym? 🙂
YEEESSSSSSS! I froze this session haha :)
She's great at articulating these concepts. Great communicator and fun to watch 👍
Woah, Xian is amazing!
Can't wait to try these tips myself!
Xian holding the two shoes is quite the revelation at 2:24 haha
The subtle Singaporean accent. haha
Love when Xian’s in a video!! Great tips!
Loved the shoe comparison at the end ❤
I wish these were closer to my gym. Some of the climbs look awesome.
I remember seeing you film this video, it was amazing to see you, and the video came out really quick and is so well made, great job!
Oh cool! Thank you so much!! :)
Love Xian!! Her tips are always so good
Well done Xian!
17:35 was such a good demonstration of what's going on with some of my own foot placement, body mechanics, and weight distribution, and it will be something that I focus on next time I go climbing. Thank you!
You’re very welcome! Glad it was useful 🤩
Great video. Lots of great tips. I'm also curious how to reduce knee load (older climber). ;Also wish there were fewer commercials.)
Thanks! I’m sure there’s some knee heath related tips to come out of my series with Coach Be later on this year.
The sponsored segments are how I make the UA-cam channel my full time work - I know ads aren’t for everyone, but we very carefully select which brand partners we work with and they help to pay for the time it takes to create a free weekly video.
Hi! it was great seeing you at volume 1 yesterday, i would love to climb with you again (if my hand heals lol)
Nice to meet you! Hopefully see you around at the wall ☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering yeah i am going there tomorrow hopefully
This is a true masterclass !! I learned so much and the format was really well thought ! Makes me want to change shoes for more flexible ones to experiment it all !
Glad it was helpful! :)
Everything I’ve been missing! Thank you!
You're so welcome!
Completed my first orange at the climbing hanger today, this vids are super helpful!
Congrats, that’s mega! Glad the videos are helpful ☺️
Another great video on technique. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it