There's a tutorial for everything on UA-cam. This was a masterclass in refurbishing a commonly malfunctioning component and making it even better. Thank you for sharing this. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Thank you for this video. I'm in the process of fixing my steam valve. There was some leaking after I descaled the machine but it slowed down to zero once I rinsed it a few times with fresh water. The seal is bad though, so I needed to open the valve to replace it. Now I need to run off to the hardware store, get a compression nut and a die to cut the thread. Once I get the new boiler in the mail I'll put together my unit and will do some testing.
@@horvathpeti84 During descaling the machine developed a leak through the steam wand. The knob would move with increased difficulty for some reason. Once I finished descaling and ran water through it, the knob started moving easily and the steam wand leak dropped to almost zero. Then I removed the top lid and noticed a leak by the spindle. Also noticed that the spindle felt quite loose inside the valve body, indicating that the oring (seal) was not sealing properly. I filed off the crimped part, removed the spindle and replaced the oring. I use the same orings to repair Ulka pumps. ;) Once I put everything back in the movement was smooth again. Yay! Now I'm waiting for a replacement boiler because the original once was scaled, pitted and looked like garbage inside. The machine is from 2000 and this is probably the original boiler. Anyway sorry about the long story. I hope it makes sense now.
@@tudor888 Yes, it makes sense now. These viton o rings in the steam valve are prone to fail due to harsh descaling solutions. What did you use? I prefer to replace them to red silicone (70 shore hardness) BS008 UK size, but I believe it is also a standard size in most part of the world. From memory the pump o ring is slightly thicker, but if it works then okay. Do you have supply to replace the smaller spring in the Ulka pump which is likely to break?
Nice video. I have this problem. Needle valves are a flawed design, they quickly foul with rust or mineral deposits. I bougt a new valve but I'll try this repair when I get a chance. Thanx.
I've faffed around with gaggia's for years and years. The best decision I made by far was just ditching gaggia's all together, biting the bullet and getting a Bezzera BX-10.
My machine (evo pro model) is only 3 month later. After you flush the steam before use it, regular operation right? But after I dip the tip to the milk, I can hear the hiss sound. It's not too loud but audible and enough to prove it's leaking. It's a shame that gaggia has been manufacturing machine for a few decades, this problem is still there. Thanks for this video and I will save it for later.
Hi, Indeed it's a shame they haven't done anything to this poor design in over 30 years. What is even worse, they're not articulating the right way of using the steam valve. It should only be closed gently. I've seen machines older than 10-15 years with perfect steamvalves. Once you get to modify yours, keep a keen eye on the force applied to close the valve.
Excellent, very helpful indeed, lots of good information - kind of justifies why spending $45.00 for a new assembly might be preferable if you don't have the tools and techniques of the presenter 🙂
Thank you so much. On the other hand, I wouldn't say it helps justifying a new valve, as that would probably fail again in a year or so, meanwhile a refurbished one could be serviced or refurbished again in literary minutes, so it should serve for a decade or so.
@@BREWBETTER yes, I agree- I think I could do everything except the interior resurfacing. If you had a shop nearby, I would have you refurbish it probably yearly- I will be ever so careful when closing it now - before I was just giving it a strong twist😱
@@BREWBETTER 9 out of 10 will work for me - your instructions are detailed enough that I may try it on the one I just swapped out (luckily I got new one while on warranty)
@@BREWBETTER So could I do everything that you did in the video EXCEPT for the remachining of the internal part of the valve,and would that solve my leaky steam valve issue still ?
So if the steam valve is leaking, the brew pressure won't be accurate right? I've tuned mine for 9bar but the valve leaks. I'll now fix the valve and pressure test. Thanks for the video.
Great stuff. Unfortunately the steam valve is the one repair that might be too difficult for the typcial Classic user. Im wondering if there was a steam valve for some other machine that would be a better option for classic-users. One day, V1 steam valves arent gonna be available, so what to replace with then? If anyone has ideas just type 'em
I have just launched brand new genuine Gaggia steam valves, modified to be maintainable/repairable/cleanable shipped worldwide for 57 USD. The V1 steam valve (from 1991, and regardless of the poor design) is still in the 2023 Pro models, so they won't discontinue it any soon. It is such a model specific item, it can't really be upgraded/ replaced with other better models.
Hi, This should be available in most air-conditioning suppliers with 6.00 mm or either 6.35mm hole at the end. Both would work fine. Optionally you can get a 1/4 brass cap from a plumbing supplier and drill a 6mm hole to the very centre.
Hi Damian, I hope you're well. Of course I know. I am Peter Horvath, we used to have quite a few discussions via email about this an other Classic related topics, like the XMT7100 mod which I also reworked in that time. I've also sent an Auber PID to you to reverse engineer the code from it if you could. Btw if you watch the video, you'll find a "Thank you for the photos for Damian" banner when the photos appear in the video, I also linked the relevant page of your blogspot in the description and your UA-cam channel as well. I also believe, I asked your permission back in the time, however I can't happen to find the email right now. Obviously I do not make money of these videos, it's more of a courtesy for the community, as your blogpost is. If you would like me to, I can also remove the photos of the video. Kind regards Peter PS: Are you back on the coffee machines again?
@@BREWBETTER Sorry, you're right. You actually asked me before. I'm slowly getting back into the game, but we'll see what comes of it. I have some plans for the blog and a few new ideas, but we'll see what will come out of it. With these Auber PIDs, it's hard to figure them out because the manufacturer has removed the markings of the integrated circuit, but I will keep trying.
Awesome video, thank you so much for the tutorial. Bought a used Classic which is leaking from the steam wand knob area. I'm looking to do this mod but having difficulty finding some of the parts in the United States. Has anyone put a parts list together for this area? Like links to Home Depot, Lowes, Amazon, Etc. I can't seem to find the locknut and not sure if I will be able to get the gaskets without going through eBay. Thanks!
Amazing tutorial, mines getting to be a little leaky so I will be doing this in the future. Is there any benefit to getting the spindle machined up in steel? Would this prevent future issues?
Thank you. I wouldn't say a steel spindle could be any better, it would worsen the chamfering affect - of a tight close of the valve - on the valve seat/nest, which would cause the very same issue, but it is even more difficult to re-machine properly. I am keep thinking of a teflon or silicone seal between the spindle to overcome the root cause, but I am sorry to admit, it's probably over my capabilities to develop/test it appropriately, so I have given up on this for now.
@@kiwikoffee I discarded the "cap" idea at the beginning, as a new valve has a nice sharp edge of the seat and the cap meeting that edge with the screw in motion, would tear the cap apart in a few use in my opinion.
Thank you, Peter, for such thoroughly tutorial. So the 5 mm drilling need to release some additional space or to clean the surface from scale? I mean you literally drill a couple mm of metal to make the connection more durable? And how this step is necessarily required for good results, isn't it?Thank you
Hi, The drilling should be done with a 5mm end mill, so the result should be a perfectly square bottomed bore. I normally remove 1-2mm material in order to get rid of the chamfer compressed there by overtightened valve. Resulting in almost zero mating surface, preventing scale build-up, to maintain a perfect seal even when the valve is closed gently. Before I started to refurb the valve seat I managed to get 9 out of 10 back and running with the spindle only refurb in a much better condition than they were before. This really depends on the level of the overtightening occured. However I believe a complete refurb results a longer term solution, especially if the user gives up overtightening.
Hi, I’m looking to fix the steam valve on my gaggia classic pro. It is the US model. Water is leaking from the knob. I know you said to use a 1/4 inch die. But the size of the valve looks like 1/2 inch. So would I use a 1/2 inch diameter for or 1/4 inch die. 1/4 inch NC20 die seams very small compared to the diameter of the valve. Please help. Thanks in advance.
Hi, I am a guy from the metric world, used to live in the UK. I am not familiar with Imperial and US standards. The die I use is labelled 1/4 BSP 19TPI. That has a major thread diameter of 0.518" so I am not entirely sure why is it called 1/4. You could do your own research to find a matching size die and locknut over there. The one I use cuts a rather shallow thread, but it forks just fine, meanwhile the closest metric size (M12) is slightly too small, so it is almost impossible to manage. If you find the right US standard die, it would be much appreciated to share it here with the community. Thank you
I ended up doing this modification and Ravi Pal Panesar you are correct that the die size would be a 1/2" if you are going by US imperial measurements..You could use a 1/2"-13 which is a course thread or a 1/2"-20 which is a finer thread..If you use either of these you will have a terrible time trying to find a collar nut to fit..I used a 1/2"-20 NC and I ended up having to get a 5/16 compression nut,drill it out and then used a 1/2"-20 tap to make the threads compatible..What he is using in the video is a "pipe thread" die which is a 1/4 BSP 19 TPI..Pipe threads are different and match up better with common compression fitting nuts,whereas using a 1/2"-20 NC doesn't..Compression fittings/nut sizes are different than regular nut sizes..I suggest finding the die he used in the video and you will have a much easier time finding a collar/compression nut to fit..
You might get away with it, until you receive the correct size, but I wouldn't risk it on such a cheap part. The nipple of the valve is 10mm in diameter, so while the original o ring has to stretch 0.8mm this one is loose about the same amount. I doubt it would work well in the long run. At least you'll hear the hissing noise if water leaks there straight to the top of the boiler, so it won't hide when fails
I noticed that you did not seem too concerned about bits dropping into the boiler when you brushed the top of the boiler after the removal of the steam valve. Is there a chance that the boiler could get blocked?
@@anthonyroma6520 If there is scale deposit on the bore of the steamvalve - which you could potentially push into the boiler - I have bad news, there's already more scale sitting on the bottom of the boiler already. The way the flow is designed in the boiler prevents most of the particles to get out, with other words, you need a lot of scale in the boiler in order to cause any issues. On the other hand if you use an identical brush as seen in the video, it is very unlikely to push anything into the boiler. It is a very good Idea to flush out the steam valve through the wand after the cleaning. I'll have a video very soon how to get rid of the sediments in the boiler without taking it apart.
I think M12 is too small (some material should be turned off on a lathe) and M13 is probably resulting an even shallower thread than the 1/4 BSp, which is already on the edge of functionality. Where are you based? I do offer a refurb exchange service.
@@joeg946 Hi neighbour, I'm in Hungary. I do sell brand new modified valve for 45 GBP shipped to yours. We could also sort out an exchange refurb service for 25 GBP (including return shipping, but postage to my place is your responsibility)
Very nice video, thank you! I just bought a 2019 classic from a dishonest seller, the steam wand doesn't work at all. Turning the knob all the way in or out produces no steam nor water. How should I troubleshoot it, you think? I haven't opened the machine yet. The coffee "function" works
@@BREWBETTER i would have to time it and the machine is at my girlfriend's now, but probably a minute or two. Definitely not something like ten seconds, and also not suspiciously long.
@@pierrex3226 Have you checked the steam knob? It could be rounded or missing the metal spring clip, so it spins freely on the spindle of the steam valve. If not, I would try to heat it up to steam, once it reached temperature switch it back to brew and turn the pump on for a few seconds without the portafilter in place. There should be a good amount of steam escaping from the group head. If so, the steam valve is clogged. Need to be removed, and decalcified (soaked), flushed. Do not submerge the top (spindle) end.
There's no way 1/4" is the right size for that tap on the steam valve for my 120V Gaggia Classic Pro 2019. I'm pretty sure the steam wand attachment nut is 1/2" threading and the valve side seems the same size.
The diameter of the thread is around 1/2" meanwhile the actual fitting - so as the die - labelled 1/4" 19tpi as per industry standard size compression nuts for 1/4" diameter tubing. The wand attachment nut has the same threading as the tube is 1/4" or 6mm.
@@horvathpeti84 Yeah, whoever came up with compression nut sizing should be shot. I have no idea if US compression nuts are 1/4" 19 TPI though, as I can't find any information on them. Seems like an industry secret?
It’s amazing how poorly gaggia designed the classic/pro steam wand. It’s embarrassing that after a few months users are filing down parts to clean them. And that’s just a temporary fix. Is it that hard to make a properly designed steam valve? Kind of ridiculous. Good tutorial
I do agree with most of what you said, however if the user is aware of the force they should apply to close the valve from day 1, also maintaining the machine appropriately and can ignore the natural dripping of the wand due to trapped water heating up (lots of ifs😅). Than it could work fine for a while. The real shame is, they haven't changed this design in the last 32 years 😢
That’s somewhat true. I did this procedure years ago and have very soft water. The fix only lasts months, not years. I just keep a cup under the wand to collect water. When it gets very bad I just replace the whole valve. It’s designed to fail
Thank you sir, I'm in the middle of doing this process, but the quarter inch die seems very small. Could you tell me the exact, or similar, actual die size please. Thank you
Hah, most of the time the steam valve is scale-fused to the boiler making it IMPOSSIBLE to remove -=JUNK. UNREPAIRABLE. The fact that you have to grind down the valve top to remove the core shows you what complete unrebuildable junk this machine is the Gaggia Classic is a piece of aluminum JUNK
Well, that's a point of view, however I would love to hear what are you comparing it to - obviously with an identical price tag. To make your contribution more constructive. Personally, I've been able to remove all steamvalves in the past even in a DIY workshop. Hint: If your steamvalve is scale-fused to the boiler, it is probably a good idea to clean the boiler as well. Once these are out of the machine, it is a piece of cake to tap out the steamvalve with a 9mm rod...
There's a tutorial for everything on UA-cam. This was a masterclass in refurbishing a commonly malfunctioning component and making it even better. Thank you for sharing this. Greetings from the Netherlands.
This was incredible. My excitement when the shaft popped from the valve body D:
This is really helpful thanks Peter. I realise now I should stop turning the steam knob too tight :-( I have a leaky wand but I just live with it.
Thank you for this video. I'm in the process of fixing my steam valve. There was some leaking after I descaled the machine but it slowed down to zero once I rinsed it a few times with fresh water. The seal is bad though, so I needed to open the valve to replace it. Now I need to run off to the hardware store, get a compression nut and a die to cut the thread. Once I get the new boiler in the mail I'll put together my unit and will do some testing.
Hi,
Thank you.
When you referring to a bad seal, do you mean, the valve leaks around the spindle?
@@horvathpeti84 During descaling the machine developed a leak through the steam wand. The knob would move with increased difficulty for some reason. Once I finished descaling and ran water through it, the knob started moving easily and the steam wand leak dropped to almost zero. Then I removed the top lid and noticed a leak by the spindle. Also noticed that the spindle felt quite loose inside the valve body, indicating that the oring (seal) was not sealing properly.
I filed off the crimped part, removed the spindle and replaced the oring. I use the same orings to repair Ulka pumps. ;) Once I put everything back in the movement was smooth again. Yay!
Now I'm waiting for a replacement boiler because the original once was scaled, pitted and looked like garbage inside. The machine is from 2000 and this is probably the original boiler. Anyway sorry about the long story. I hope it makes sense now.
@@tudor888 Yes, it makes sense now. These viton o rings in the steam valve are prone to fail due to harsh descaling solutions. What did you use?
I prefer to replace them to red silicone (70 shore hardness) BS008 UK size, but I believe it is also a standard size in most part of the world. From memory the pump o ring is slightly thicker, but if it works then okay. Do you have supply to replace the smaller spring in the Ulka pump which is likely to break?
@@horvathpeti84 I never replaced a spring, didn't know they tended to break. :( But I'd check ebay first.
Nice video. I have this problem. Needle valves are a flawed design, they quickly foul with rust or mineral deposits. I bougt a new valve but I'll try this repair when I get a chance. Thanx.
I've faffed around with gaggia's for years and years. The best decision I made by far was just ditching gaggia's all together, biting the bullet and getting a Bezzera BX-10.
My machine (evo pro model) is only 3 month later. After you flush the steam before use it, regular operation right? But after I dip the tip to the milk, I can hear the hiss sound. It's not too loud but audible and enough to prove it's leaking. It's a shame that gaggia has been manufacturing machine for a few decades, this problem is still there. Thanks for this video and I will save it for later.
Hi,
Indeed it's a shame they haven't done anything to this poor design in over 30 years.
What is even worse, they're not articulating the right way of using the steam valve. It should only be closed gently. I've seen machines older than 10-15 years with perfect steamvalves.
Once you get to modify yours, keep a keen eye on the force applied to close the valve.
Excellent, very helpful indeed, lots of good information - kind of justifies why spending $45.00 for a new assembly might be preferable if you don't have the tools and techniques of the presenter 🙂
Thank you so much.
On the other hand, I wouldn't say it helps justifying a new valve, as that would probably fail again in a year or so, meanwhile a refurbished one could be serviced or refurbished again in literary minutes, so it should serve for a decade or so.
@@BREWBETTER yes, I agree- I think I could do everything except the interior resurfacing. If you had a shop nearby, I would have you refurbish it probably yearly- I will be ever so careful when closing it now - before I was just giving it a strong twist😱
@@starbros1947 Fair point. According to my experience 9/10 times the spindle only refurb helps, but obviously not for a really long time.
@@BREWBETTER 9 out of 10 will work for me - your instructions are detailed enough that I may try it on the one I just swapped out (luckily I got new one while on warranty)
@@BREWBETTER So could I do everything that you did in the video EXCEPT for the remachining of the internal part of the valve,and would that solve my leaky steam valve issue still ?
Very nice, thanks for the video.
Good job! Greetings from Bulgaria!
So if the steam valve is leaking, the brew pressure won't be accurate right? I've tuned mine for 9bar but the valve leaks. I'll now fix the valve and pressure test. Thanks for the video.
Very good video, thanks for sharing!!
What grit sandpaper do you recommend? I'm tempted to try doing this
Great stuff. Unfortunately the steam valve is the one repair that might be too difficult for the typcial Classic user. Im wondering if there was a steam valve for some other machine that would be a better option for classic-users. One day, V1 steam valves arent gonna be available, so what to replace with then?
If anyone has ideas just type 'em
I have just launched brand new genuine Gaggia steam valves, modified to be maintainable/repairable/cleanable shipped worldwide for 57 USD.
The V1 steam valve (from 1991, and regardless of the poor design) is still in the 2023 Pro models, so they won't discontinue it any soon.
It is such a model specific item, it can't really be upgraded/ replaced with other better models.
@@BREWBETTERyes! Where can I buy one ??!!
@@crazydubwise Hi, I've just added a link to my website in the description.
Kind regards
Peter
Thank you Peter 🫶🏻✨
Great video! I bought the incorrect compression nut. Any idea where I can buy the correct one in the EU?
Hi,
This should be available in most air-conditioning suppliers with 6.00 mm or either 6.35mm hole at the end. Both would work fine. Optionally you can get a 1/4 brass cap from a plumbing supplier and drill a 6mm hole to the very centre.
Top job! The new replacement part costs 50€ it's really a waste of money
Greetings from Chile!
You realize that you used a photo of the valve from my blog, which I am the author of
Hi Damian,
I hope you're well.
Of course I know.
I am Peter Horvath, we used to have quite a few discussions via email about this an other Classic related topics, like the XMT7100 mod which I also reworked in that time. I've also sent an Auber PID to you to reverse engineer the code from it if you could.
Btw if you watch the video, you'll find a "Thank you for the photos for Damian" banner when the photos appear in the video, I also linked the relevant page of your blogspot in the description and your UA-cam channel as well.
I also believe, I asked your permission back in the time, however I can't happen to find the email right now.
Obviously I do not make money of these videos, it's more of a courtesy for the community, as your blogpost is.
If you would like me to, I can also remove the photos of the video.
Kind regards
Peter
PS: Are you back on the coffee machines again?
@@BREWBETTER Sorry, you're right. You actually asked me before.
I'm slowly getting back into the game, but we'll see what comes of it. I have some plans for the blog and a few new ideas, but we'll see what will come out of it.
With these Auber PIDs, it's hard to figure them out because the manufacturer has removed the markings of the integrated circuit, but I will keep trying.
huge letters 'Thank You for Damien' right above the picture. smh.
Is that a cnc I hear in the background .
Great video
Awesome video, thank you so much for the tutorial. Bought a used Classic which is leaking from the steam wand knob area. I'm looking to do this mod but having difficulty finding some of the parts in the United States. Has anyone put a parts list together for this area? Like links to Home Depot, Lowes, Amazon, Etc. I can't seem to find the locknut and not sure if I will be able to get the gaskets without going through eBay. Thanks!
McMaster-Carr will have all of these parts, though their website can be confusing to navigate if you don't know technical terms.
Amazing tutorial, mines getting to be a little leaky so I will be doing this in the future. Is there any benefit to getting the spindle machined up in steel? Would this prevent future issues?
Thank you.
I wouldn't say a steel spindle could be any better, it would worsen the chamfering affect - of a tight close of the valve - on the valve seat/nest, which would cause the very same issue, but it is even more difficult to re-machine properly.
I am keep thinking of a teflon or silicone seal between the spindle to overcome the root cause, but I am sorry to admit, it's probably over my capabilities to develop/test it appropriately, so I have given up on this for now.
@@BREWBETTER Makes total sense, wonder if a teflon/silicone "cap" on the spindle would be enough... food for thought!
@@kiwikoffee I discarded the "cap" idea at the beginning, as a new valve has a nice sharp edge of the seat and the cap meeting that edge with the screw in motion, would tear the cap apart in a few use in my opinion.
Thank you, Peter, for such thoroughly tutorial. So the 5 mm drilling need to release some additional space or to clean the surface from scale? I mean you literally drill a couple mm of metal to make the connection more durable? And how this step is necessarily required for good results, isn't it?Thank you
Hi,
The drilling should be done with a 5mm end mill, so the result should be a perfectly square bottomed bore. I normally remove 1-2mm material in order to get rid of the chamfer compressed there by overtightened valve. Resulting in almost zero mating surface, preventing scale build-up, to maintain a perfect seal even when the valve is closed gently.
Before I started to refurb the valve seat I managed to get 9 out of 10 back and running with the spindle only refurb in a much better condition than they were before. This really depends on the level of the overtightening occured. However I believe a complete refurb results a longer term solution, especially if the user gives up overtightening.
Hi, I’m looking to fix the steam valve on my gaggia classic pro. It is the US model. Water is leaking from the knob. I know you said to use a 1/4 inch die. But the size of the valve looks like 1/2 inch. So would I use a 1/2 inch diameter for or 1/4 inch die. 1/4 inch NC20 die seams very small compared to the diameter of the valve. Please help. Thanks in advance.
Hi, I am a guy from the metric world, used to live in the UK. I am not familiar with Imperial and US standards. The die I use is labelled 1/4 BSP 19TPI. That has a major thread diameter of 0.518" so I am not entirely sure why is it called 1/4. You could do your own research to find a matching size die and locknut over there. The one I use cuts a rather shallow thread, but it forks just fine, meanwhile the closest metric size (M12) is slightly too small, so it is almost impossible to manage.
If you find the right US standard die, it would be much appreciated to share it here with the community.
Thank you
I ended up doing this modification and Ravi Pal Panesar you are correct that the die size would be a 1/2" if you are going by US imperial measurements..You could use a 1/2"-13 which is a course thread or a 1/2"-20 which is a finer thread..If you use either of these you will have a terrible time trying to find a collar nut to fit..I used a 1/2"-20 NC and I ended up having to get a 5/16 compression nut,drill it out and then used a 1/2"-20 tap to make the threads compatible..What he is using in the video is a "pipe thread" die which is a 1/4 BSP 19 TPI..Pipe threads are different and match up better with common compression fitting nuts,whereas using a 1/2"-20 NC doesn't..Compression fittings/nut sizes are different than regular nut sizes..I suggest finding the die he used in the video and you will have a much easier time finding a collar/compression nut to fit..
@brewbetter, I just received a steam valve to boiler oring, and it seems to be a BS111, instead of 110. Have you ever tried to use the 111 size?
You might get away with it, until you receive the correct size, but I wouldn't risk it on such a cheap part.
The nipple of the valve is 10mm in diameter, so while the original o ring has to stretch 0.8mm this one is loose about the same amount. I doubt it would work well in the long run. At least you'll hear the hissing noise if water leaks there straight to the top of the boiler, so it won't hide when fails
Could you advise on the size of the o ring for nipple that connects the valve to the boiler? Thanks
Sure, it's BS110 (2.62mm Section 9.2mm Bore)
@@horvathpeti84 thank you.
I noticed that you did not seem too concerned about bits dropping into the boiler when you brushed the top of the boiler after the removal of the steam valve. Is there a chance that the boiler could get blocked?
@@anthonyroma6520 If there is scale deposit on the bore of the steamvalve - which you could potentially push into the boiler - I have bad news, there's already more scale sitting on the bottom of the boiler already.
The way the flow is designed in the boiler prevents most of the particles to get out, with other words, you need a lot of scale in the boiler in order to cause any issues.
On the other hand if you use an identical brush as seen in the video, it is very unlikely to push anything into the boiler.
It is a very good Idea to flush out the steam valve through the wand after the cleaning.
I'll have a video very soon how to get rid of the sediments in the boiler without taking it apart.
@@horvathpeti84thanks for advice, very informative. Do you sell parts for the classic?
Hi Peter. The thread cutter 1/4 BSP is very hard to find, I don't see any for sale. Can we do that with similar metric thread, like M12, M13...?
I think M12 is too small (some material should be turned off on a lathe) and M13 is probably resulting an even shallower thread than the 1/4 BSp, which is already on the edge of functionality. Where are you based? I do offer a refurb exchange service.
@@BREWBETTER Thank you for you reply. I am from Croatia. I can order new one for 41gbp, but I thought If I buy some thread cutter, will be cheaper.
@@joeg946 Hi neighbour, I'm in Hungary. I do sell brand new modified valve for 45 GBP shipped to yours. We could also sort out an exchange refurb service for 25 GBP (including return shipping, but postage to my place is your responsibility)
Tell me where I can buy this 25:12 steam valve seal? Or its size.
It's in the description of the video.
Very nice video, thank you! I just bought a 2019 classic from a dishonest seller, the steam wand doesn't work at all. Turning the knob all the way in or out produces no steam nor water. How should I troubleshoot it, you think? I haven't opened the machine yet. The coffee "function" works
Hi,
Thank you.
Does the steam ready light (below the steam switch) lit up a couple of minutes after you hit the steam button?
@@BREWBETTER yes the button and light are fine.
@@pierrex3226 how long it takes for the ready light to lit up, from the moment you hit the steam button?
@@BREWBETTER i would have to time it and the machine is at my girlfriend's now, but probably a minute or two. Definitely not something like ten seconds, and also not suspiciously long.
@@pierrex3226 Have you checked the steam knob? It could be rounded or missing the metal spring clip, so it spins freely on the spindle of the steam valve. If not, I would try to heat it up to steam, once it reached temperature switch it back to brew and turn the pump on for a few seconds without the portafilter in place. There should be a good amount of steam escaping from the group head.
If so, the steam valve is clogged. Need to be removed, and decalcified (soaked), flushed. Do not submerge the top (spindle) end.
Hello, is this still for sale?😊
There's no way 1/4" is the right size for that tap on the steam valve for my 120V Gaggia Classic Pro 2019. I'm pretty sure the steam wand attachment nut is 1/2" threading and the valve side seems the same size.
The diameter of the thread is around 1/2" meanwhile the actual fitting - so as the die - labelled 1/4" 19tpi as per industry standard size compression nuts for 1/4" diameter tubing.
The wand attachment nut has the same threading as the tube is 1/4" or 6mm.
@@horvathpeti84 Yeah, whoever came up with compression nut sizing should be shot. I have no idea if US compression nuts are 1/4" 19 TPI though, as I can't find any information on them. Seems like an industry secret?
It’s amazing how poorly gaggia designed the classic/pro steam wand. It’s embarrassing that after a few months users are filing down parts to clean them. And that’s just a temporary fix. Is it that hard to make a properly designed steam valve? Kind of ridiculous. Good tutorial
I do agree with most of what you said, however if the user is aware of the force they should apply to close the valve from day 1, also maintaining the machine appropriately and can ignore the natural dripping of the wand due to trapped water heating up (lots of ifs😅). Than it could work fine for a while.
The real shame is, they haven't changed this design in the last 32 years 😢
That’s somewhat true. I did this procedure years ago and have very soft water. The fix only lasts months, not years. I just keep a cup under the wand to collect water. When it gets very bad I just replace the whole valve. It’s designed to fail
Thank you sir, I'm in the middle of doing this process, but the quarter inch die seems very small. Could you tell me the exact, or similar, actual die size please. Thank you
Hi,
I should have highlight it that's a 1/4" BSP thread with the size of 13.16 mm / 0.518" and 19 thread/inch
@@horvathpeti84 the actual die says 1/4 inch on it?
@@jonpos4671 Yes, it does, but as stated it is above 1/2" in diameter. It is a British Standard Parallel thread (BSP).
@@horvathpeti84 the closest one I have is 1/2 NF 20. Think that will work?
@@jonpos4671 it should, as long as you can get a locknut as well with the same internal thread with a 6-7mm hole at the end for the spindle.
Hah, most of the time the steam valve is scale-fused to the boiler making it IMPOSSIBLE to remove -=JUNK. UNREPAIRABLE. The fact that you have to grind down the valve top to remove the core shows you what complete unrebuildable junk this machine is the Gaggia Classic is a piece of aluminum JUNK
Well, that's a point of view, however I would love to hear what are you comparing it to - obviously with an identical price tag. To make your contribution more constructive.
Personally, I've been able to remove all steamvalves in the past even in a DIY workshop.
Hint: If your steamvalve is scale-fused to the boiler, it is probably a good idea to clean the boiler as well. Once these are out of the machine, it is a piece of cake to tap out the steamvalve with a 9mm rod...
Nobody can do that at home, I do not see this very hopeful