Excellent content answered all the questions us scooter riders had with plenty of charts and info love this channel doing it bug for scooter folks ThAnkyou sir !!!!!
no no no :P. As you can see on the smile of my face and the sound of the drive by that the 4.75 did really great. that was a happy sounding engine great job!
+ sound like your scooter is running a little bit lean when accelerating, keeps bogging on acceleration then picking up speed and bogging a little again. edit: probably just still a little rich
Great vid, great work as usual. Dont even reply to some of these know it all haters. You know what ur doing.. Your build dont suck, its not slow. put a 150 lb dude on that thing and the times would be a lot different. Crazy to me some of the stupid comments i just read. Keep up the good work man. love the vids. happy to see ya uploaded after a long shit day at work.
@@49ccscoot pfff that would be amazing im startong my aerox project from 50 ( moped ) to ( motorcycle ) and u give the best en most attention to detail of ur work and the video big credits to u my man an greetings from the 🇳🇱
Nice job, well done! As most of time. Talking about confusion of 0-40 better with 4,5g and 0-50 with 4,75g. Well, me thinks, the engine would like to go higherand that the peak power will be 13,7Krpm. But something shuts of your overrev. At the end of the 0-50 test run, you stay to long in the restricted 13,7Krpm max. overrev! Options: do a wrap-shop on the header/diffusor with a heat wrap band (starting somewhere aorund 10-15cm after piston, so the speed of sound increases to give more overrev. Or: give the stinger a little bit more inner diameter. Or: give the ignition a bit more retarding at the end of your power band (so the center of gravity of the burning is advanced, so the less time for hottest burnied gases to give heat to the cylinder and piston surfaces but more to the exhaust gases. Will heat up the exhast gases while cooling a bit of the cumbustion chamber surfaces. Or.: Use a bit less of the compression ratio, so the peak power rpm will increase as also the overrev will increase. The overrev around 2 times more than the pprpm. Kind of the same as waping the header aerea. For me, I would go the wrapping route, because your engine already sings and does no detos with your compression ratio and the piston ot burned already while been overheated. So engine setup ok so far, but there is kind of a wall for overrev you need to fix. I guess, it's not the mainjet 100. Before playing more, test again your 4,5g setup 0-40 and 0-50 runs with the 102 MJ and watch, if there is no difference at overrev rpm, maybe still 13,7rpm, I would stay at the 102MJ. And then wrap your header. This is cheap mod and you'll find your pipe supporting maybe pprpm 200-300rpm higher and maybe 300-500rpm more overrev. Maybe hitting 14krpm. Ad with that mod, you wouldn't loose usable usble stroke after center of burning till exhast opens. my2cents
My friend I’ve loved your videos and I’m very experienced in racing scooters you have the best pipe the best ignition the best crank and cylinder but your running a road basic carb. Trust me on this.
Niceee... I really love this series, the best on the youtube... can't wait to see them all :D ps. all racing exhaust will burn clearcoat near the cylinder, even cast iron 70cc... I have find out that the best way is to take oil and brush it... even better is when the oil burn on the exhaust, something like blacken steel.. and its kinda better protection than wd40....
I use castoroil for painting my exhaust. It burns in very well. Castoroil mixed with graphite powder works very well too if you like it a little darker =) Put it on with a small brush after every ride until you got enough layers to protect the pipe
My Gionelli Dio pipe fared pretty similarly. I do not treat it regularly with WD40 or anything, I just really make sure there's no water sitting on the pipe when sitting. I did put better quality high temp gloss within the first few weeks. Feels like it's holding up more, however I still get burn off right at the header.
Amazing work. Now put a 100cc 2FAST or ROOST on that thing, would be awesome. Up to 44hp at the wheel with the ROOST 100cc (TPR 86cc probably around 21-23hp at the wheel).
Your best work yet! The detail in your comparisons always amaze me. The Peace Pipe holds it own, no problem. The flybys are crazy loud! I didn't know you had a twin brother? Lol! jk
Great video, and loved the editing. So that pipe looks the part, sounds the part, and delivers the performance too. I suppose if you were feeling really ambitious you could try and re-finish the pipe in the off-season. That drag race comparison was pretty eye-opening, when you consider the relative short distance, that was a pretty big gap. I'd love to see John run the numbers and build another peace pipe to fit your current setup and see a direct comparison to the MHR but I'm sure he doesn't have the resources to build you a pipe just for testing purposes. Well done, and it looks like it is a lot of fun to ride too.
I took measurements of the pipe and John says it's pretty close to the Frits Overmars ideals, so more or less I'd guess he'd build something very similar... but with a Penton muffler. A more fair comparison to the Peace Pipe that I have would be something built for 10,500RPM and I doubt that anything on the market for that rev range is going to make much difference in power.
Your experiments, videos & knowledge are all awesome dude But if I could suggest 1 thing is that a Malossi HMR rc one 70 with a 2 fast or roost crank extension crank rod & cylinder kit would be a lot quicker than your 86cc setup.
color change in the exhaust has to do with the air/fuel mix and temperature. I know that if the mix is to lean, a chrome exhaust pipe will turn blue.. no sure what applies in this case tho, maybe too rich? Sweet bike, im in love with it ! I clean my pipe with petrol... whats that rattle you got going on after 50mph???
Thanks. I think in this case the color change is mostly just the clear coat. From talking with others, it sounds like not many of these 2T exhausts have coatings that last without discoloration. That noise was the CVT cover bearing gone bad.
I watched a danish video.Most important for "wheelie" is to adjust the back-brake so you have 2 fingers on the brake-handle and 2 on the steer.Another cool channel are "Sasada Racing Garage" with japan 50ccc formula 1 videos.
As a long distance tourer i liked the peace pipe more. With the Mhr exhaust the revs would scare me off to drive my Vespa from the netherlands to italy,as the difference in revs are kinda killing most of the reliability too.Besides the Fuel consumption and Cop attention will go up a bit.And a underdog looking bike that shreds unexperienced kid tuners bikes is way more fun .
hi Brent, congrats on the improvements... i do have a few recomendations for you though: 1. it sounds like the gearbox is having a difficult time, i recommend getting a taller gear set installed (this will improve acceleration and speed, the low gear set only makes for high rpm and heat). 2. the rollers you use dont fully use the capability of the cvt, round ones work much better in the malossi cvt. 3. (and this is very optional) the engine case youre using is a low quality chinese unit, i recommend a japanese case(yamaha, aprilia etc.), you will experience about a 25 percent increase in power.
I haven't tried it with this setup, but I have tried rollers vs sliders back to back in the Malossi OR with really no difference other than the sliders hold up longer. Could be that they make a difference at some level of tuning. I know some people do not like them. Where will the power come from in the Yamaha/Aprilia cases? The Chinese cases are thicker around the crank than the Yamaha/Aprilia stuff. The cases are so far modified at this point that they aren't really close to anything stock.
@@49ccscoot most of it comes from drivetrain loss between the crank and the rear wheel, the gearbox in those chinese cases are made badly, ive seen a lot of those being so bad, that the rear wheel wobbles (on stock engines). plus the cvt. and rear pully ar mutch better aligned in the minarelli cases. and just fyi, when flow optimising a case, its best to remove as little material as possible. increasing crank case volume too much will actually result in lower power numbers, as it slows down the fuel mixture. i recommend trying out rollers, about the same weight you have in it and see the difference. and yes i have dyno tested this more than once.
Little scoot covers some ground & the new pipe sounds great . It's kinda disappointing that pipes with them amazing finishes changes so quickly as it cures . I would luv to have a Stinger ! If only I had a 2 stroke 😔 I'm looking 💯. I'm flipping scoots for a part time gig & came across a Suzuki 650 burgman needs tires, brakes & a seat cover going up 4 sale LOL . Nice work on your little monster bro 🛵💯Salute 👊
Great stuff! Suprised there's not more of an advantage in the mhr exhaust. Really surprised it makes LESS noise. Wonder what the difference in hp is. Theres a bikeshop near me that dynos scooters for 30$ a piece. For the same reason i've been looking into how to lock the variator in highest gear for a fixed gear power curve. That would be a very nice tool to have for tuning.
Hi my friend it’s me again who has give you advice all through your build With your engine with your ignition and now your pipe you do need to run a larger carb. Trust me I race these exact bikes and you need a good quality 28mm carb but you inlet manifold needs to be larger than the carb so a large one needs to go with the carb I suggest a mikuni flat slide carb witch come standard on many 80 cc Mx bikes. Trust me on this your engine is starved on air you will need a much larger main jet with this carb and you will notice a huge difference. That’s why your pipe is running hot cuz your carb is to small.
Did you try the other angle on your tourque drive? I had to change mine on my Polini setup to get a smoother acceleration. And I would say you shouldn’t kill your engine with too light pullies. Maybe get another exhaust that runs with lower rpm
Now I don't know if you did the math but your runner extension to the air box plays some big wave tuning potential. It's super long normally horrible for rpm especially in two smokes. Try a mesh over the carb bet youl find yourself closer to useing a 125main and making much more jam up top
@@49ccscoot I understand completely but if performance is something your after that looks like a huge compromise to me. Simple pod that flows enough should make a huge improvement and do check if it flows enough. I normally jet without filters and if I need to go from a 150 to anything smaller than a 145 with filters I find a different filter. Most cheap pods don't flow enough for a 50cc.
@@oliverscorsim My experience with pod filters on street scoots hasn't been great. I used to use them, but they respond to weather changes so much that I found them hard to deal with. With the airbox, I tuned it and haven't had to mess with it. Rode it in the summer heat and I've had it out around freezing.
I use a chrome plated Tecnigas pipe that runs quieter than the standard pipe while still giving great performance to my Minarelli-powered Adly with 70cc big bore kit. I use kerosene on a rag to remove the spooge that builds up during each ride. It works well but I'll also try the WD40 idea to see if that makes it easier to remove. A non-related question: do you know where I'd get some 13x 130 wheels for my scoot?
I can't say that I really look for wheels. PFS has a few 13" and so does ScooterTuning. Not sure if they have anything for the rear that fits though. Someone on the forum may be able to tell you.
@@49ccscoot thanks for that. I'll check them out. Just one other question regarding your trans setup in the vid. You were using quite heavy variator weights, but what springs are you using in the clutch. I use an Artek K2 clutch with 1k equivalent springs and 3g variator weights but can't get rid of the bogging off the line. Would heavier springs with lighter weights (I have 2.1g at home) give better performance when taking off? If I go lighter on the weights currently it just screams through the mid range without much progress.
Hey man, love your vids, so informative! We use WD40 a lot in The Netherlands to kind of cure the metal of the pipe to keep it from corroding, after a while it won't corrode any more. Also, something sounds a bit off in your drivetrain, it seems really loud, perhaps the belt? You would know i am sure. One last thing I would be interested in is a change of gear ratio in your final drive (cogs in the rear wheel). Perhaps you could use the max power band to accelerate for longer using longer gears? Thanks for the video!
49ccScoot you should try a 32 ali express one here alot of people use them and they are really decent for the 25 euro we pay. Would be great if we could see a comparison video like you did with this one.
I was thinking of getting a 72cc bbk for a yamasaki 50cc gy6 bike. Does the brand really make a difference? Ebay generic, naraku, kymco, malossi? Which one is the best?
At least get a Taiwan brand. Don't buy the cheapest kits you can. Myself and others have learned that the hard way. Sometimes you get lucky, and sometimes you buy junk.
Thanks. I use 32:1 premix, so it's quite a bit of oil, plus I keep it as rich as I can without hurting performance too much. At that point it did have a jet 10 numbers higher than what I ended up with after tuning, but it still smokes plenty now.
The cases are ported. The gearbox is about as good as it gets with a Chinese engine (1E40QMB). A lot of people say the rollers should never be more than x amount different, but I've tested all of this in the past and it has not made a difference for me.
Where are u located im down in miami and had the only mbk nitro in the states since then sold it and just got back into the hobby and noticing parts are so hard to find since the chinese scoot market took over in the early 2000s currently have a speedfight 2 and a zuma 125
@@49ccscoot oh wow that is a pretty big size. I run a 19 mm Arrichie (with open air pod filter) on a 73 BBK. The jet is a 92, was thinking about trying a 110 or. 120. Its interesting your performance is better with downsizing.
I have no scooter, but I have 22mm PHBL in 74cc piston port malossi cylinder on a suzuki pv50 mini moped. Cylinder is ported to @10.000rpm peak hp. I was using 100/105 main jet on it with air filter. And the stock size idle jet. Pretty low compression too. Any smaller was lean... Edit: I would start with setup and carb like that around 130-140 main jet size. Exhaust gettin’ so hot so quick also tells it’s lean. Plug colours needs to be brown.
Your channel is killing me 😂 I want to mod my VMOTO Milan 2 so bad! These 50cc Chinese motors, can they rev much harder than stock or do they blow up easily if an exhaust, filter and jets are put in?
If you're just doing exhaust and jetting, it should be fine. The stock cylinder probably isn't going to rev so high that it can't take it without work. If you want to rev very high, then consider upgrading the crank and try to go with a 12mm wrist pin if it is currently the 10mm version. I wouldn't do the air filter. The stock airbox works fine and is less difficult to keep in tune vs a pod filter. Just make sure it doesn't have a restrictive snorkel (inlet tube). Re-tune if you mod the airbox at all.
I don't do data logging so any real average is beyond my means. It will depend on weather and current tune. Usually 160-185 CHT cruising slower, heating up more with higher throttle. I try to avoid holding it part throttle where it's not sputtering though, because part throttle ruins a lot of high strung 2Ts. 200-220 CHT WOT, but I don't really hold it WOT long with this setup. CHT is tricky though, because gauge/sender and cylinder variances can matter a lot so without using my exact setup I don't see it as a great reference. If you mean coolant temp, that really varies with weather. I was riding on a 60 degree day recently and the coolant temp was hanging around 95. On hot days it can get up to around 140 commonly.
I got rid of all of my rollers and use sliders in everything now. They work better for me in some things. Seem to be about the same in this application, but they have always had the benefit of lasting a lot longer.
I just typed a reply and it looks like it disappeared, so if you see 2 that's why. Anyway, thanks and I do still have my TaoTao (139QMB/GY6 50) that I intend to work on more. My 150 didn't really fit a need for me. It had to be tagged as a motorcycle, but it wasn't fast enough that I really liked using it as a motorcycle and big engine stuff is pretty expensive for them. I love two-strokes and kinda get sucked in when I start messing with them.
49ccScoot - sweet. I really enjoyed the video where you stripped it down after 1k Miles. Here in the UK a lot of people suggest replacing the ring every 1k Miles. Your measurements proved you had no need to given the set up and riding style. Are you keeping tabs on compression? May be worth doing every 500 miles as a quick check on the rings. If you keep the rings and piston healthy the bore should be good for many miles 👍
@@davespooney8472 I meant to check compression and didn't. Some people see a lot of wear with different kits, so I think it has to be a case by case basis. I'll likely see more with 14,000RPM vs 11,000 and higher output.
49ccScoot - well good luck in your endeavours, it’s a brilliant little bike you have built! As you know, there’s power to be had @ 12k+, the wear rate on a road bike gets a bit much though!!! With my mild set up I’m happy with under 10.5k revs, gets me up them hills and lasts.
Is there rear axle gearing alternatives? because if there are i bet you could get more top end speed, the engine sound willing to give more imho. back when i used to run my mh rx with an 80cc airsal on the highway to and fro work every day i never looked at the revcounter, i rode it by ear all the way and it topped out at 132km/h with the highest gearing i could find, chain system i know not cvt, but that cylindre couldnt, in theory, produce more than 16-18hp and i never honed out the ports or anything... your kit should be able to give 23-25hp.... im a big guy like u, but you should still be able to pass 80mph :)
Stock gears are 10.1:1. My current gears are 11.2:1. I use them because I can have the 3rd bearing support that helps to beef up the gearbox and they're a good mix of acceleration and speed for me.
@@49ccscoot Well acceleration is what the var etc is for.. still think you could get 10mph more out of it and still accelerate as good as the old exhaust could ..
@@KaiIngebrigtsen I've put a ton of miles on these gearboxes and I have had much better luck with the extra support. It may be something I try briefly at some point, but I doubt that I'd leave it that way. If I could find a primary gear set with the nub for the extra bearing, that may be a different story. The guy that made the Peace Pipe is an aircraft mechanic/machinist/fabricator and he tried to add a nub to a stock primary drive shaft for me but it snapped. Making gearbox parts of the proper hardness etc... to handle high stress isn't easy for most of us.
It's a spun aluminum 2.5 gallon tank. It would be tough to put on a regular scoot with fairings. I extended the rear of my frame a bit to make room because it's pretty big for a scoot. There are smaller tanks though. Then I welded in a crossbar to put mounts on.
@@royaltybuiltco I've also modified a new stock tank before to make it hold 2 gallons instead of 1.4. I used a new stock tank because welding in a vessel that has held fuel isn't a great idea. A good welder could do it way easier than I did, but here's the info : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/10545/larger-fuel-tank-ideas-build
@@49ccscoot And also I'm going for the stunt bike/ Naked look with my scooter. But I still want it functional, so I plan on getting rotopax gas cans..once I get it back up and running
@@49ccscoot thanks for the reply. So all the parts you bolt on are made for that scoot? Like the 86cc bbk or the 103? Where did you get those kits from? I looked and didn't find them..
@@jeffw8369 Most of the stuff on the 86cc comes from ScooterTuning.Ca. The 103cc stuff is generally more generic and I've kinda got it where I could when I built them. The 45mm cranks and 54mm bores are not as common as they once were, but are still out there. Liquid cooled 54mm cylinders are more rare and overpriced. I paid almost $400 for mine, and that's cast iron sport level stuff, that didn't want to seal for me. A lot of times I look for Zuma parts. If you're doing crank and all, the engine stuff works. If you just want a cylinder kit, my Chinese engine had a 12mm pin stock and the Zuma is 10mm. Gearbox parts do not interchange. Some CVT stuff does, but you have to be careful with spline size/count because the Zuma is smaller than many of the Chinese clones, though some clones do have the small shaft for the vari and 10mm wrist pin. Same deal for flywheels. There is a large and small taper. The crank for the TPR kit uses small taper and small splines on the other side so Zuma variators and ignitions can fit. Belt size is different because of case length. It's complicated till you get used to it.
just want to ask, may scooter seems to bug down in a WOT. and in your vid you talk about a richer is safer (this is also mentioned in your previous vid). but when i tune my carb it runs better i na leaner mixture(the screw is actually snug all the way in). is this ok? since the feeling of bugging down in a WOT disappear.. tnx man
You're primarily leaning out the very low throttle positions with the mixture screw. It may have some effect on WOT, but mostly that is the main jet. Usually I try to use the largest main jet that gives good results. If it's slowing you down much, then sure, try a smaller jet.
I HAVE SIMILAR PIPE ON MORINI MALOSSI 70CC SPORT. MINE DISCOLOR TOO BUT NO SO MUCH AS YOURS. ANYONE LOOKING AT SR50 TO BUY YOU WANT THE YAMAHA(PIAGIO) VERSIONS OVER THE SUZUKI (MORINI). AFTER MARKET PARTS ARE MORE AVAILABLE FOR YAMAHA AND IS BEST ENGINE.
I rarely check the plug unless I'm having trouble figuring out what's going on or changing the plug. It has always came out wet because I stick with a rich tune the best I can. NGK BR10EV.
Hello Sir! greetings from Germany!! I thing there is something wrong with you setup. 6.4sec for 1/16mile with a tpr 86 thats way to slow. In the german DSSC (( Deutsche sprit Scooter) German dragrace Scooter cup) we drive 150m 1/10.6mil races. In the 70cc Scooter class (normal scooter frame, no drag frame) the 70cc kit 47.6mm x 39.2 ( like Polini evo, MHR team, Stage6 racing/ Rt, TPR 70, Airsal Extream 70, Metrakit pro race........) we drive 1/10.6mile in eazy 8sec. The best in this class drive a 6.5 even a 6.3 with a topspeed of way over 75miles/hour. And in the class bigger than 70
I wonder how many scooter racers weigh 300 pounds? Have the fast guys put an extra 100-200 pounds on their scooters and see if they can still do the same times. I know this thing isn't all that quick/fast, but some of it is definitely my weight. I weigh more than some couples. I also wonder how many of the 100MPH scooters are actually used on the road. I know there's a lot more power to be had, but some of these high power engines are rebuilt in the mileage that I may do on one ride. I have no desire to be so fast that I can't ride it.
@@49ccscoot yes sir but on a dyno i thing you have 16-18hp max so you lose 5-8hp even with that crapy malossi pipeand @14k rpm and thats the poind! the pipe is muhaaaaa ad i thing xor ignition timings are not right .or teh carb is way off or somethig is way off.
@@49ccscoot HEY!! i revisted this video. The exhaust is the problem. the pipe is designt to resonance at arround 14k. the tpr pipe is 12.5k! your setup back than 12-12,5k engine reso and the pipe hits at 14k. So your setup is peak power arround 13k. looks right with your messurents. the Problem is you lose peak power by over reving the Carb-Case-Cylinder kombo. if you are 1000rpm to low to reso the pipe you lose around 15-20% peak power. but other way around, if you over rev the engine you have arround the same loss. calc with 5% loss for the engine and multiple that bey the 5% lose of the pipe. you lose 25% power! all tpr 86 matched setup do 23-26hp+ all around 12.5k. lets go with 25hp max; 25/100 *75= 18.75hp. thats 6.25hp lose!! i dove a yamaha aerox with a full tpr86 setup 28mm carb going 86 miles or 138km/h gps! the aerox is 92kg and my fat ass is 120kg!!! or 198pund for the scoot+ 265pund for my fat ass.
Depends on the application. In some variators they can be swapped for the same weight. In others they need to be a little heavier. In the Malossi MultiVar for my Minarelli, they interchange pretty well.
Normaly the Malossi isn´t the perfect Exhaust for the Top performance Cylinder. Because the timing of the Top performance is not so sharp. But for now it works good.
For what these things cost, it's gonna have to be good for it. I don't think the difference in performance would be worth it for me to spend this much repeatedly in search of the absolute best option.
lol Those are St Pauli Girl beer posters that have been up there for years. Not sure if they still do it, but you used to be able to get one sent to you for free each year by just giving them your address on their site.
It is a bit disappointing though, with all of the exhausts that big companies have made and the prices of exhausts, that it's so common to have coatings that don't last. That said, I have paid a pretty substantial amount of money to have turbo related exhaust pipes ceramic coated only to watch them dull almost immediately.
Haven't tried yet. I may put a fresh belt on there and probably slightly heavier sliders and find out. I've been 70.5MPH sitting up, but that was with a stiff tailwind.
il faut monter la plage plus haute de la transmission c'est a dire les pignon dans le carter dernière l'embrayage, votre scooter prend les régime beaucoup trop fort pour rien ....
I think something may be lost in translation, but it seems like you are saying I need different gears. If I am correct, watch the next video in the series.
@@49ccscoot jais vus votre avant dernière vidéo .. et non ce n'est pas l'embrayage mais derrière l'embrayage la ou vous avait passer un coup de pinceau pour nettoyer .. les pignon de transmission faut changer et mettre plus d'allonge .
That's a bad bearing in the CVT cover. I'm pretty sure. Those go bad way too often in these Chinese setups. That's why I like the 3rd bearing setup better, so it's go more support elsewhere.
@@jona_ej2330 pero aún así con ese preparado por mucha aceleración que se quiera cojer los 100km/h los tiene que cojer como una bala, justamente estoy preparando ese mismo kit y viene bajo de grados también tengo preparado un stage6 racing mk2 de 70cc aproximadamente está cojiendo 140 con muchísima aceleración incluso con el encendido de serie sin modificar
@@LionelSinsoGarage este no abre lumbreras ni nada monta según viene y debe de pesar bastante el hombre, aún así ya quisiera yo un canal tan técnico en español... Un saludo!
@@jona_ej2330 ya ya el se que lo montó tal cuál viene aunque si le rebajó la culata para dejar el scuish a 0.80mm, yo se que el peso influye pero a lo que me refiero es que para las muy buenas piezas que lleva la moto le falta larga por mucha aceleración que se busque una preparación de ese tipo los 100km/h los pasa de sobra pero cada uno tiene su forma de montar y hacer los motores saludos
I love your videos and how detailled they are! Keep up the good work!
Excellent content answered all the questions us scooter riders had with plenty of charts and info love this channel doing it bug for scooter folks ThAnkyou sir !!!!!
You got a twin. Cool. I’ve learned so much from watching your channel. THANK YOU !
no no no :P. As you can see on the smile of my face and the sound of the drive by that the 4.75 did really great. that was a happy sounding engine great job!
Was about to ask you for the sound level but you did that already! Love how the project is turning out 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Been waiting so long for this video haha, just ordered the 86 kit for my aerox because my stage6 70cc mk2 kit keeps breaking small end bearings
+ sound like your scooter is running a little bit lean when accelerating, keeps bogging on acceleration then picking up speed and bogging a little again. edit: probably just still a little rich
pewpew Buy cheramic bearings they are very tough. You Can also buy stage 6 bearings (more cheap but less durabel).
Do you have the ovesized bearing made for that kit?
Great vid, great work as usual. Dont even reply to some of these know it all haters. You know what ur doing.. Your build dont suck, its not slow. put a 150 lb dude on that thing and the times would be a lot different. Crazy to me some of the stupid comments i just read. Keep up the good work man. love the vids. happy to see ya uploaded after a long shit day at work.
They placed i Bought my tuning parts From. sugest to spray an extra layer of clearcoat over the U shaped exhaust to prevent corosion.
That sound is amazing 2t power fly by is the sound of god
I love it as well. I need to find a tunnel.
@@49ccscoot pfff that would be amazing im startong my aerox project from 50 ( moped ) to ( motorcycle ) and u give the best en most attention to detail of ur work and the video big credits to u my man an greetings from the 🇳🇱
Hello from Zimbabwe 👋 over hear we keep our pipes looking new by heat cycling with i cant believe its not butter its spread lightly over pipe.
jes... new video :) thank u for this, make my evening
Freaking rippin,my brother Brett lmao that was funny as hell good editing too
Nice job, well done! As most of time. Talking about confusion of 0-40 better with 4,5g and 0-50 with 4,75g. Well, me thinks, the engine would like to go higherand that the peak power will be 13,7Krpm. But something shuts of your overrev. At the end of the 0-50 test run, you stay to long in the restricted 13,7Krpm max. overrev! Options: do a wrap-shop on the header/diffusor with a heat wrap band (starting somewhere aorund 10-15cm after piston, so the speed of sound increases to give more overrev. Or: give the stinger a little bit more inner diameter. Or: give the ignition a bit more retarding at the end of your power band (so the center of gravity of the burning is advanced, so the less time for hottest burnied gases to give heat to the cylinder and piston surfaces but more to the exhaust gases. Will heat up the exhast gases while cooling a bit of the cumbustion chamber surfaces. Or.: Use a bit less of the compression ratio, so the peak power rpm will increase as also the overrev will increase. The overrev around 2 times more than the pprpm. Kind of the same as waping the header aerea. For me, I would go the wrapping route, because your engine already sings and does no detos with your compression ratio and the piston ot burned already while been overheated. So engine setup ok so far, but there is kind of a wall for overrev you need to fix. I guess, it's not the mainjet 100. Before playing more, test again your 4,5g setup 0-40 and 0-50 runs with the 102 MJ and watch, if there is no difference at overrev rpm, maybe still 13,7rpm, I would stay at the 102MJ. And then wrap your header. This is cheap mod and you'll find your pipe supporting maybe pprpm 200-300rpm higher and maybe 300-500rpm more overrev. Maybe hitting 14krpm. Ad with that mod, you wouldn't loose usable usble stroke after center of burning till exhast opens.
my2cents
My friend I’ve loved your videos and I’m very experienced in racing scooters you have the best pipe the best ignition the best crank and cylinder but your running a road basic carb. Trust me on this.
Niceee... I really love this series, the best on the youtube... can't wait to see them all :D ps. all racing exhaust will burn clearcoat near the cylinder, even cast iron 70cc... I have find out that the best way is to take oil and brush it... even better is when the oil burn on the exhaust, something like blacken steel.. and its kinda better protection than wd40....
I use castoroil for painting my exhaust. It burns in very well. Castoroil mixed with graphite powder works very well too if you like it a little darker =) Put it on with a small brush after every ride until you got enough layers to protect the pipe
Thicker layer of heat proof clear paint. These pipes have such a tin layer it's almost gone after the first heat cycle.
Thanks for the video stay well and healthy
I have to lean forward in acceleration on my buddy 50 before it flips over 50cc. Thanks for your video.
Nice. What's your setup?
Great video, great editing and very informative. I’ll have to say hi to your brother next time I’m down.
My Gionelli Dio pipe fared pretty similarly. I do not treat it regularly with WD40 or anything, I just really make sure there's no water sitting on the pipe when sitting. I did put better quality high temp gloss within the first few weeks. Feels like it's holding up more, however I still get burn off right at the header.
KURWA KONIEC ZAJEBISTY XD 😀😀😀
Definitely enjoy the video man👍
Amazing work.
Now put a 100cc 2FAST or ROOST on that thing, would be awesome. Up to 44hp at the wheel with the ROOST 100cc (TPR 86cc probably around 21-23hp at the wheel).
Your best work yet! The detail in your comparisons always amaze me. The Peace Pipe holds it own, no problem. The flybys are crazy loud! I didn't know you had a twin brother? Lol! jk
Your awesome 👌👏!
Great video, and loved the editing. So that pipe looks the part, sounds the part, and delivers the performance too. I suppose if you were feeling really ambitious you could try and re-finish the pipe in the off-season. That drag race comparison was pretty eye-opening, when you consider the relative short distance, that was a pretty big gap. I'd love to see John run the numbers and build another peace pipe to fit your current setup and see a direct comparison to the MHR but I'm sure he doesn't have the resources to build you a pipe just for testing purposes. Well done, and it looks like it is a lot of fun to ride too.
I took measurements of the pipe and John says it's pretty close to the Frits Overmars ideals, so more or less I'd guess he'd build something very similar... but with a Penton muffler. A more fair comparison to the Peace Pipe that I have would be something built for 10,500RPM and I doubt that anything on the market for that rev range is going to make much difference in power.
Amazing, thanks!
Your experiments, videos & knowledge are all awesome dude But if I could suggest 1 thing is that a Malossi HMR rc one 70 with a 2 fast or roost crank extension crank rod & cylinder kit would be a lot quicker than your 86cc setup.
Thanks. Kind of apples to oranges if you look at budget though.
T2 sounds SO good
Well done
color change in the exhaust has to do with the air/fuel mix and temperature. I know that if the mix is to lean, a chrome exhaust pipe will turn blue.. no sure what applies in this case tho, maybe too rich?
Sweet bike, im in love with it ! I clean my pipe with petrol... whats that rattle you got going on after 50mph???
Thanks. I think in this case the color change is mostly just the clear coat. From talking with others, it sounds like not many of these 2T exhausts have coatings that last without discoloration.
That noise was the CVT cover bearing gone bad.
You could wrap the outlet for the muffler back around and run it out the rear.
I watched a danish video.Most important for "wheelie" is to adjust the back-brake so you have 2 fingers on the brake-handle and 2 on the steer.Another cool channel are "Sasada Racing Garage" with japan 50ccc formula 1 videos.
As a long distance tourer i liked the peace pipe more. With the Mhr exhaust the revs would scare me off to drive my Vespa from the netherlands to italy,as the difference in revs are kinda killing most of the reliability too.Besides the Fuel consumption and Cop attention will go up a bit.And a underdog looking bike that shreds unexperienced kid tuners bikes is way more fun .
hi Brent, congrats on the improvements... i do have a few recomendations for you though: 1. it sounds like the gearbox is having a difficult time, i recommend getting a taller gear set installed (this will improve acceleration and speed, the low gear set only makes for high rpm and heat). 2. the rollers you use dont fully use the capability of the cvt, round ones work much better in the malossi cvt. 3. (and this is very optional) the engine case youre using is a low quality chinese unit, i recommend a japanese case(yamaha, aprilia etc.), you will experience about a 25 percent increase in power.
I haven't tried it with this setup, but I have tried rollers vs sliders back to back in the Malossi OR with really no difference other than the sliders hold up longer. Could be that they make a difference at some level of tuning. I know some people do not like them.
Where will the power come from in the Yamaha/Aprilia cases? The Chinese cases are thicker around the crank than the Yamaha/Aprilia stuff. The cases are so far modified at this point that they aren't really close to anything stock.
@@49ccscoot most of it comes from drivetrain loss between the crank and the rear wheel, the gearbox in those chinese cases are made badly, ive seen a lot of those being so bad, that the rear wheel wobbles (on stock engines). plus the cvt. and rear pully ar mutch better aligned in the minarelli cases.
and just fyi, when flow optimising a case, its best to remove as little material as possible. increasing crank case volume too much will actually result in lower power numbers, as it slows down the fuel mixture.
i recommend trying out rollers, about the same weight you have in it and see the difference.
and yes i have dyno tested this more than once.
Nice video keep it up!
Little scoot covers some ground & the new pipe sounds great . It's kinda disappointing that pipes with them amazing finishes changes so quickly as it cures . I would luv to have a Stinger ! If only I had a 2 stroke 😔 I'm looking 💯. I'm flipping scoots for a part time gig & came across a Suzuki 650 burgman needs tires, brakes & a seat cover going up 4 sale LOL . Nice work on your little monster bro 🛵💯Salute 👊
Semi Pro Bacon eater had me rollin.
I always use 2stroke oil after I drive my Aerox, I had a new yasuni c16 that I used once and didn't oil and it showed dots of rust almost instantly.
From the 2stroke aswell as the 4stroke world i know that when your exhaust gets its coleurs. its tells you how rich or lean the mixture is. 😉
Great stuff!
Suprised there's not more of an advantage in the mhr exhaust.
Really surprised it makes LESS noise.
Wonder what the difference in hp is.
Theres a bikeshop near me that dynos scooters for 30$ a piece.
For the same reason i've been looking into how to lock the variator in highest gear for a fixed gear power curve.
That would be a very nice tool to have for tuning.
Hi my friend it’s me again who has give you advice all through your build With your engine with your ignition and now your pipe you do need to run a larger carb. Trust me I race these exact bikes and you need a good quality 28mm carb but you inlet manifold needs to be larger than the carb so a large one needs to go with the carb I suggest a mikuni flat slide carb witch come standard on many 80 cc Mx bikes. Trust me on this your engine is starved on air you will need a much larger main jet with this carb and you will notice a huge difference. That’s why your pipe is running hot cuz your carb is to small.
Veramente bravo 🥇
I love your videos
Thank you!
@19:07 Try 4.6 grams to see if you can get the best times in every category? 3.5 5.2 and 8.1
3,5 second to reach 30 mph, my god that is fast
Did you try the other angle on your tourque drive? I had to change mine on my Polini setup to get a smoother acceleration. And I would say you shouldn’t kill your engine with too light pullies. Maybe get another exhaust that runs with lower rpm
I've tried both angles. This one has been best for me.
looks like it needs some new clutch rings. Try the OR kit so it has that more to work with :)
Now I don't know if you did the math but your runner extension to the air box plays some big wave tuning potential. It's super long normally horrible for rpm especially in two smokes. Try a mesh over the carb bet youl find yourself closer to useing a 125main and making much more jam up top
Honestly, the airbox hose was solely about making it fit. I may get into trying other configs at some point, but just making it fit was a good step.
@@49ccscoot I understand completely but if performance is something your after that looks like a huge compromise to me. Simple pod that flows enough should make a huge improvement and do check if it flows enough. I normally jet without filters and if I need to go from a 150 to anything smaller than a 145 with filters I find a different filter. Most cheap pods don't flow enough for a 50cc.
@@oliverscorsim My experience with pod filters on street scoots hasn't been great. I used to use them, but they respond to weather changes so much that I found them hard to deal with. With the airbox, I tuned it and haven't had to mess with it. Rode it in the summer heat and I've had it out around freezing.
@@49ccscoot a CV carb would get you what your looking for. Don't restrict it to get consistency. Especially in a 2smoke
Bravo (dall Italia)
I use a chrome plated Tecnigas pipe that runs quieter than the standard pipe while still giving great performance to my Minarelli-powered Adly with 70cc big bore kit. I use kerosene on a rag to remove the spooge that builds up during each ride. It works well but I'll also try the WD40 idea to see if that makes it easier to remove.
A non-related question: do you know where I'd get some 13x 130 wheels for my scoot?
I can't say that I really look for wheels. PFS has a few 13" and so does ScooterTuning. Not sure if they have anything for the rear that fits though. Someone on the forum may be able to tell you.
@@49ccscoot thanks for that. I'll check them out. Just one other question regarding your trans setup in the vid. You were using quite heavy variator weights, but what springs are you using in the clutch. I use an Artek K2 clutch with 1k equivalent springs and 3g variator weights but can't get rid of the bogging off the line. Would heavier springs with lighter weights (I have 2.1g at home) give better performance when taking off? If I go lighter on the weights currently it just screams through the mid range without much progress.
THE TWINS BRO RULES
Hey man, love your vids, so informative! We use WD40 a lot in The Netherlands to kind of cure the metal of the pipe to keep it from corroding, after a while it won't corrode any more. Also, something sounds a bit off in your drivetrain, it seems really loud, perhaps the belt? You would know i am sure. One last thing I would be interested in is a change of gear ratio in your final drive (cogs in the rear wheel). Perhaps you could use the max power band to accelerate for longer using longer gears? Thanks for the video!
The noise is most likely the bearing in the CVT cover. Those things go bad too often even with the extra support bearing in the gearbox.
Nice vid but that peace pipe sounds way better
Nice pipe!
Whats size carb are u using? If its 21mm i suggest you to put 24mm or 28mm carb it improves your performance quite a bit
25mm
@@GUBBIn1LL3R Yup.
49ccScoot you should try a 32 ali express one here alot of people use them and they are really decent for the 25 euro we pay. Would be great if we could see a comparison video like you did with this one.
adjust the idle jet if u did i sugest getting other sliders maybe 7 gr perhabs some more solid clutch springs
its got some deadspots in the beginning that might be why
ahh yes me seeing u already do i watched to 3:27 when i wrote the comment hahah
i have a similar type pipe but from gianelli and the rust took over it really fast
I'm hoping frequent wipedowns will keep the corrosion at bay.
I also had a gianelli, i wiped it with wd40 after every ride and that helped it with staying clean.
I was thinking of getting a 72cc bbk for a yamasaki 50cc gy6 bike. Does the brand really make a difference? Ebay generic, naraku, kymco, malossi? Which one is the best?
At least get a Taiwan brand. Don't buy the cheapest kits you can. Myself and others have learned that the hard way. Sometimes you get lucky, and sometimes you buy junk.
@@49ccscoot Do you have any website and brand preference?
Super nice episode! really enjoyed it! , only question i have is why running it so rich on oil ( 1:32) ?
Thanks. I use 32:1 premix, so it's quite a bit of oil, plus I keep it as rich as I can without hurting performance too much. At that point it did have a jet 10 numbers higher than what I ended up with after tuning, but it still smokes plenty now.
Mikuni tm28806 awesome carb you will be amazed your bike is starved on air fuel ratio.
Nice. Is your crankcase ported? Dude it needs a heavier gearbox. In the vario the rollers should never be more the 1 gram difference
The cases are ported. The gearbox is about as good as it gets with a Chinese engine (1E40QMB). A lot of people say the rollers should never be more than x amount different, but I've tested all of this in the past and it has not made a difference for me.
Where are u located im down in miami and had the only mbk nitro in the states since then sold it and just got back into the hobby and noticing parts are so hard to find since the chinese scoot market took over in the early 2000s currently have a speedfight 2 and a zuma 125
MD. ScooterTuning has quite a few parts. I think a lot of places have had more stock issues though, likely due to the pandemic.
Howdy. What size carburetor and brand are you using ?
DellOrto 25mm PHBL
@@49ccscoot oh wow that is a pretty big size. I run a 19 mm Arrichie (with open air pod filter) on a 73 BBK. The jet is a 92, was thinking about trying a 110 or. 120. Its interesting your performance is better with downsizing.
I have no scooter, but I have 22mm PHBL in 74cc piston port malossi cylinder on a suzuki pv50 mini moped.
Cylinder is ported to @10.000rpm peak hp.
I was using 100/105 main jet on it with air filter.
And the stock size idle jet.
Pretty low compression too.
Any smaller was lean...
Edit: I would start with setup and carb like that around 130-140 main jet size.
Exhaust gettin’ so hot so quick also tells it’s lean.
Plug colours needs to be brown.
Your channel is killing me 😂 I want to mod my VMOTO Milan 2 so bad! These 50cc Chinese motors, can they rev much harder than stock or do they blow up easily if an exhaust, filter and jets are put in?
If you're just doing exhaust and jetting, it should be fine. The stock cylinder probably isn't going to rev so high that it can't take it without work. If you want to rev very high, then consider upgrading the crank and try to go with a 12mm wrist pin if it is currently the 10mm version. I wouldn't do the air filter. The stock airbox works fine and is less difficult to keep in tune vs a pod filter. Just make sure it doesn't have a restrictive snorkel (inlet tube). Re-tune if you mod the airbox at all.
Can I ask what average temperature does your engine run at when hard riding 👍🏻
I don't do data logging so any real average is beyond my means. It will depend on weather and current tune. Usually 160-185 CHT cruising slower, heating up more with higher throttle. I try to avoid holding it part throttle where it's not sputtering though, because part throttle ruins a lot of high strung 2Ts. 200-220 CHT WOT, but I don't really hold it WOT long with this setup. CHT is tricky though, because gauge/sender and cylinder variances can matter a lot so without using my exact setup I don't see it as a great reference.
If you mean coolant temp, that really varies with weather. I was riding on a 60 degree day recently and the coolant temp was hanging around 95. On hot days it can get up to around 140 commonly.
hi bran. good vidieos
do the Dr polley rolls work better than the normal Rolls ...
because the clutch that Dr polley has made just does not work as intended at all
I got rid of all of my rollers and use sliders in everything now. They work better for me in some things. Seem to be about the same in this application, but they have always had the benefit of lasting a lot longer.
Hey man, just subbed great vids 👍 how come you moved away from GY6 stuff? Bored or were they too much hassle? Cheers!
I just typed a reply and it looks like it disappeared, so if you see 2 that's why. Anyway, thanks and I do still have my TaoTao (139QMB/GY6 50) that I intend to work on more. My 150 didn't really fit a need for me. It had to be tagged as a motorcycle, but it wasn't fast enough that I really liked using it as a motorcycle and big engine stuff is pretty expensive for them. I love two-strokes and kinda get sucked in when I start messing with them.
49ccScoot - sweet. I really enjoyed the video where you stripped it down after 1k Miles.
Here in the UK a lot of people suggest replacing the ring every 1k Miles. Your measurements proved you had no need to given the set up and riding style. Are you keeping tabs on compression? May be worth doing every 500 miles as a quick check on the rings.
If you keep the rings and piston healthy the bore should be good for many miles 👍
@@davespooney8472 I meant to check compression and didn't.
Some people see a lot of wear with different kits, so I think it has to be a case by case basis. I'll likely see more with 14,000RPM vs 11,000 and higher output.
49ccScoot - well good luck in your endeavours, it’s a brilliant little bike you have built!
As you know, there’s power to be had @ 12k+, the wear rate on a road bike gets a bit much though!!! With my mild set up I’m happy with under 10.5k revs, gets me up them hills and lasts.
@@davespooney8472 It makes more sense to ride around with the Peace Pipe. It's just always hard to go back once you get more power.
What is the squish you use and what is the octane of the fuel and your fuel mix ratio??
0.9mm squish, right on TPR's spec. I use premium pump gas, which is 91-93 (RON+MON)/2, and 32:1 pre-mix with AMSOil Dominator.
Is there rear axle gearing alternatives? because if there are i bet you could get more top end speed, the engine sound willing to give more imho. back when i used to run my mh rx with an 80cc airsal on the highway to and fro work every day i never looked at the revcounter, i rode it by ear all the way and it topped out at 132km/h with the highest gearing i could find, chain system i know not cvt, but that cylindre couldnt, in theory, produce more than 16-18hp and i never honed out the ports or anything... your kit should be able to give 23-25hp.... im a big guy like u, but you should still be able to pass 80mph :)
Stock gears are 10.1:1. My current gears are 11.2:1. I use them because I can have the 3rd bearing support that helps to beef up the gearbox and they're a good mix of acceleration and speed for me.
@@49ccscoot Well acceleration is what the var etc is for.. still think you could get 10mph more out of it and still accelerate as good as the old exhaust could ..
@@KaiIngebrigtsen I've put a ton of miles on these gearboxes and I have had much better luck with the extra support. It may be something I try briefly at some point, but I doubt that I'd leave it that way. If I could find a primary gear set with the nub for the extra bearing, that may be a different story. The guy that made the Peace Pipe is an aircraft mechanic/machinist/fabricator and he tried to add a nub to a stock primary drive shaft for me but it snapped. Making gearbox parts of the proper hardness etc... to handle high stress isn't easy for most of us.
What gas tank do you have? And was it hard swapping it ?
It's a spun aluminum 2.5 gallon tank. It would be tough to put on a regular scoot with fairings. I extended the rear of my frame a bit to make room because it's pretty big for a scoot. There are smaller tanks though. Then I welded in a crossbar to put mounts on.
49ccScoot ahhhhhh okay ! Thanks, cause I want to put a bigger tank on mines
@@royaltybuiltco I've also modified a new stock tank before to make it hold 2 gallons instead of 1.4. I used a new stock tank because welding in a vessel that has held fuel isn't a great idea. A good welder could do it way easier than I did, but here's the info : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/10545/larger-fuel-tank-ideas-build
@@49ccscoot Notes, even better! Much appreciated 🙏
@@49ccscoot And also I'm going for the stunt bike/ Naked look with my scooter. But I still want it functional, so I plan on getting rotopax gas cans..once I get it back up and running
What kind of scoot is that? Thanks for your reply...
2004 Vento Triton
@@49ccscoot thanks for the reply. So all the parts you bolt on are made for that scoot? Like the 86cc bbk or the 103? Where did you get those kits from? I looked and didn't find them..
@@jeffw8369 Most of the stuff on the 86cc comes from ScooterTuning.Ca. The 103cc stuff is generally more generic and I've kinda got it where I could when I built them. The 45mm cranks and 54mm bores are not as common as they once were, but are still out there. Liquid cooled 54mm cylinders are more rare and overpriced. I paid almost $400 for mine, and that's cast iron sport level stuff, that didn't want to seal for me.
A lot of times I look for Zuma parts. If you're doing crank and all, the engine stuff works. If you just want a cylinder kit, my Chinese engine had a 12mm pin stock and the Zuma is 10mm. Gearbox parts do not interchange. Some CVT stuff does, but you have to be careful with spline size/count because the Zuma is smaller than many of the Chinese clones, though some clones do have the small shaft for the vari and 10mm wrist pin. Same deal for flywheels. There is a large and small taper. The crank for the TPR kit uses small taper and small splines on the other side so Zuma variators and ignitions can fit. Belt size is different because of case length.
It's complicated till you get used to it.
just want to ask, may scooter seems to bug down in a WOT. and in your vid you talk about a richer is safer (this is also mentioned in your previous vid). but when i tune my carb it runs better i na leaner mixture(the screw is actually snug all the way in). is this ok? since the feeling of bugging down in a WOT disappear.. tnx man
only the main jet affects the wot
The screw is idle mixture. The main mixture jet is not adjustable, only replaceable.
You're primarily leaning out the very low throttle positions with the mixture screw. It may have some effect on WOT, but mostly that is the main jet. Usually I try to use the largest main jet that gives good results. If it's slowing you down much, then sure, try a smaller jet.
tnx a lot.. actually the stock main jet.. ihave a honda dio af18.. what sizeof main jet should i use? tnx..
i am also planning change my gear with 17x42 is this appropriate for a stock 50cc? i am using a koso clutch, stock center spring..
I HAVE SIMILAR PIPE ON MORINI MALOSSI 70CC SPORT. MINE DISCOLOR TOO BUT NO SO MUCH AS YOURS. ANYONE LOOKING AT SR50 TO BUY YOU WANT THE YAMAHA(PIAGIO) VERSIONS OVER THE SUZUKI (MORINI). AFTER MARKET PARTS ARE MORE AVAILABLE FOR YAMAHA AND IS BEST ENGINE.
You dont check your plug colour. What type plug you use and what heat range
I rarely check the plug unless I'm having trouble figuring out what's going on or changing the plug. It has always came out wet because I stick with a rich tune the best I can. NGK BR10EV.
What is your scooter ? Cpi? Hussar ?
Vento Triton, so basically a CPI Hussar.
49ccScoot i have to scooter but if i use tune pipe they not running but if i use power pipe they have a good run
Hello Sir! greetings from Germany!! I thing there is something wrong with you setup. 6.4sec for 1/16mile with a tpr 86 thats way to slow. In the german DSSC (( Deutsche sprit Scooter) German dragrace Scooter cup) we drive 150m 1/10.6mil races. In the 70cc Scooter class (normal scooter frame, no drag frame) the 70cc kit 47.6mm x 39.2 ( like Polini evo, MHR team, Stage6 racing/ Rt, TPR 70, Airsal Extream 70, Metrakit pro race........) we drive 1/10.6mile in eazy 8sec. The best in this class drive a 6.5 even a 6.3 with a topspeed of way over 75miles/hour. And in the class bigger than 70
I wonder how many scooter racers weigh 300 pounds? Have the fast guys put an extra 100-200 pounds on their scooters and see if they can still do the same times. I know this thing isn't all that quick/fast, but some of it is definitely my weight. I weigh more than some couples. I also wonder how many of the 100MPH scooters are actually used on the road. I know there's a lot more power to be had, but some of these high power engines are rebuilt in the mileage that I may do on one ride. I have no desire to be so fast that I can't ride it.
@@49ccscoot yes sir but on a dyno i thing you have 16-18hp max so you lose 5-8hp even with that crapy malossi pipeand @14k rpm and thats the poind! the pipe is muhaaaaa ad i thing xor ignition timings are not right .or teh carb is way off or somethig is way off.
@@49ccscoot HEY!! i revisted this video. The exhaust is the problem. the pipe is designt to resonance at arround 14k. the tpr pipe is 12.5k! your setup back than 12-12,5k engine reso and the pipe hits at 14k. So your setup is peak power arround 13k. looks right with your messurents. the Problem is you lose peak power by over reving the Carb-Case-Cylinder kombo. if you are 1000rpm to low to reso the pipe you lose around 15-20% peak power. but other way around, if you over rev the engine you have arround the same loss.
calc with 5% loss for the engine and multiple that bey the 5% lose of the pipe. you lose 25% power!
all tpr 86 matched setup do 23-26hp+ all around 12.5k. lets go with 25hp max; 25/100 *75= 18.75hp. thats 6.25hp lose!!
i dove a yamaha aerox with a full tpr86 setup 28mm carb going 86 miles or 138km/h gps! the aerox is 92kg and my fat ass is 120kg!!! or 198pund for the scoot+ 265pund for my fat ass.
@@bravo1412 It would be interesting to see the difference in the intended TPR exhaust side by side.
rapeseed oil or the same oil you would season a cast iron pan with
should the dr polley sliders be the same weight as my regular rolls I use or should the dr polley sliders be a little lighter or heavier
Depends on the application. In some variators they can be swapped for the same weight. In others they need to be a little heavier. In the Malossi MultiVar for my Minarelli, they interchange pretty well.
@@49ccscoot okay then I will just try to order some of the Sliders ...
what does your Scooter of hp provide, just like that approx
@@bp-tuningaeroxlc-dd6474 Maybe 20HP?
@@49ccscoot Okey nice .....
Normaly the Malossi isn´t the perfect Exhaust for the Top performance Cylinder. Because the timing of the Top performance is not so sharp. But for now it works good.
For what these things cost, it's gonna have to be good for it. I don't think the difference in performance would be worth it for me to spend this much repeatedly in search of the absolute best option.
From 7:10 minutes
Cool pictures of the women in the top right of the video :-)
lol Those are St Pauli Girl beer posters that have been up there for years. Not sure if they still do it, but you used to be able to get one sent to you for free each year by just giving them your address on their site.
Have you got any ideas what the sound could be at 14:14? O_o
Yeah, the gearbox is always going to make some noise and in this case the bearing under the CVT cover was going bad.
How is the Tmax?
Still running well. It's my only non-project scoot. I try to leave it alone so it's ready to ride whenever.
What is the carburateur on it ?
25mm DellOrto PHBL
all exhaust rust.not crazy with that temp the coat burn off in seconds.i did chrome mine.they not made for show but for performance and damn loud too.
It is a bit disappointing though, with all of the exhausts that big companies have made and the prices of exhausts, that it's so common to have coatings that don't last. That said, I have paid a pretty substantial amount of money to have turbo related exhaust pipes ceramic coated only to watch them dull almost immediately.
Love it.... rehabkymco
you need malossi or polini gears !!!! ,your top speed is to low for your set up ,67mph 86cc 😭
Top speed??
Haven't tried yet. I may put a fresh belt on there and probably slightly heavier sliders and find out. I've been 70.5MPH sitting up, but that was with a stiff tailwind.
Hay par de pesos invertidos ahí
Malossi is nobodys favorite pipe. Js enginering and Roost are best used.
il faut monter la plage plus haute de la transmission c'est a dire les pignon dans le carter dernière l'embrayage, votre scooter prend les régime beaucoup trop fort pour rien ....
I think something may be lost in translation, but it seems like you are saying I need different gears. If I am correct, watch the next video in the series.
@@49ccscoot jais vus votre avant dernière vidéo .. et non ce n'est pas l'embrayage mais derrière l'embrayage la ou vous avait passer un coup de pinceau pour nettoyer .. les pignon de transmission faut changer et mettre plus d'allonge .
@@49ccscoot moi j'ai changer les pignons de transmission et il prend plus de vitesse de pointe genre 110km/h avec un kit 70cc acheter sur le site ebay
regarder cette vidéo c'est ca que je vous parle ua-cam.com/video/1KYGVamLYNU/v-deo.html
www.maxiscoot.com/transmission-primaire-stage6-15-38-piaggio-nrg-apres-98-s6-2014012p.html
We have 2 fully build minarelli aluminum frame race bikea. 70cc and a 86cc.1/4mile 70cc bike 12.6 sec and the 86cc 1/4 mile 11.6sec
Sounds cool. Put up some vids of these bikes and send me a link!
@@49ccscoot look for me on FB and chat me.
Dont forget to wipe your pipe fellas,
malossi shit, polini is great !!!
I wonder what happened to this guy - no new videos in a year
Huh? Check my uploads... or are you looking for my brother Brett? I haven't seen him lately.
@@49ccscoot my bad just looking in the wrong place!
@@joshuaharrison9331 What would fix that is subscribing and ringing the bell to receive notifications. 😁
@@49ccscoot yeah yeah, I just subscribed.
Hey dude, you can use your $1000 stimulus payment to buy more tuning parts ;)
Fuck communism
Your gearbox will go to hell bro. You can definitely hear the vibration.
That's a bad bearing in the CVT cover. I'm pretty sure. Those go bad way too often in these Chinese setups. That's why I like the 3rd bearing setup better, so it's go more support elsewhere.
@@49ccscoot yes its the small bearing in the kick case. Please by a gearbox. What ratio is in the box now? 13 to 1?
Ese top era para cojer al menos 150 km/h no 60 yo con un top negro he alcanzado 135 km/h esa moto esta muy mal regulada para lo que lleva montado
El no quiere velocidad punta sino aceleración, si ves sus videos solo cronometra hasta 50mph o 80kmh todavía le falta por probar cosas.
@@jona_ej2330 pero aún así con ese preparado por mucha aceleración que se quiera cojer los 100km/h los tiene que cojer como una bala, justamente estoy preparando ese mismo kit y viene bajo de grados también tengo preparado un stage6 racing mk2 de 70cc aproximadamente está cojiendo 140 con muchísima aceleración incluso con el encendido de serie sin modificar
@@LionelSinsoGarage este no abre lumbreras ni nada monta según viene y debe de pesar bastante el hombre, aún así ya quisiera yo un canal tan técnico en español... Un saludo!
@@jona_ej2330 ya ya el se que lo montó tal cuál viene aunque si le rebajó la culata para dejar el scuish a 0.80mm, yo se que el peso influye pero a lo que me refiero es que para las muy buenas piezas que lleva la moto le falta larga por mucha aceleración que se busque una preparación de ese tipo los 100km/h los pasa de sobra pero cada uno tiene su forma de montar y hacer los motores saludos