Greetings...megstuBMW...........Thanks for watching...........Well, maybe, I didn't realize, at to what, was supposed to happen, way back when, I made this particular video, as it applies to, a narrow band oxygen sensor's, so called "cross-counts" (aka, switching) alright, but, as of now, I'm pretty sure, that I kinda know, what really should be happening, and is, as follows...........In order to make a properly functioning, narrow band oxygen sensor, produce the "cross counts", as in, kinda like a wave, that goes above and below, the (stoichiometric) 450 millivolt line (.45 volts), then, the oxygen sensor must be installed in the vehicle's exhaust system, pre-cat (as in, before the catalytic converter), while having the vehicle's engine warmed up enough, and running, at a low load/cruising speed, or, at idle speed, so the vehicle's on-board computer, will be able, to go into, the "closed loop" operating mode..........The (not so smart), narrow band oxygen sensor, only knows stoichiometric (14.7 to 1 air/fuel ratio), or, that it's too rich, or, too lean, so, the computer, changes the fuel injector's pulse width, back and forth, from, too lean, then to, too rich, then, back to, too lean again, and keeps repeating, these so called "cross counts", and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...1112223333111.............Thanks for watching............The Oxygen Sensor, that You saw, in this UA-cam Video of mine, is known as the..."Zirconia"...type, and, is also called, a Narrow Band type as well, and, if it's working Ok, it will usually Output a Voltage, up to, no more than, about 1 Volt, when the sensing end of it, is Heated Up-to, about 600 Degrees Fahrenheit or Hotter...............The Lower the Voltage reading (closer to Zero), the Leaner the Air/Fuel Ratio will be................The Closer to 1 Volt, then, the Richer, the Air/Fuel Ratio will be...........There is also a..."Titania"...type of Oxygen Sensor as well, and it's, (Ohms) "Resistance" will change (Not Voltage...!!!), when heated up properly...................There is also a Wide Band, type of Oxygen Sensor as well, that will probably be outputting, a somewhat higher Voltage (maybe, about 5 Volts maximum perhaps), and is vey accurate, as compared to, the Narrow Band type of Oxygen Sensor.................Maybe, do an internet search, for the different types of Oxygen Sensors, cuz, some of those Websites, that are out there, sure do, go into, some rather fine detail, I must say....and...........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...1112223333111.................Well, if Your particular Oxygen Sensor, is the Narrow Band type, then, I'd say, that, it's probably working, as it should be doing, alright..................What You are probably seeing, when the Voltage "Fluctuates/goes Up and Down", from that 0.1 to 0.8 Volts, is usually, what is known as/called..."Cross Counts"....................Lettuce (lol) see now....."Half-Way", between 0.1 and 0.8 should put Us, at about .45 Volts, which should be, what is referred to, as being..."Stoichiometric"...that be, where, the Air to Fuel Ratio, is at, about, 14.7 to 1 (air/fuel ratio, while also, being at, somewhere near sea level as well, perhaps), and that particular..."Stoichiometric"... Air/Fuel Ratio, is, such that, the Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, will supposedly, be Burned up, somewhat Completely, and usually, will take place, when the Engine is fully warmed up-to Operating Temperature, while also, for the most part, be, having the Engine, at Idle Speed, or, just Cruising along, not too fast, at a steady speed, that will usually have the Vehicle's On-Board Computer, "in", what is known as, the "Closed Loop" Operating Mode, and, that's about the only time, that the Vehicle's, On-Board Computer, will actually be "Listening-to", what the Oxygen Sensor/s, have to say, in respect to, whatever Voltage Signal, that the Oxygen Sensor/s, are Outputting/Sending to that On-Board Computer, at the time................The On-Board Computer's..."Open Loop"...Operating "Mode", will usually be happening, when the Engine is Started Cold, and is just warming up, and also, something-like, when the Engine "is" fully warmed up, to operating temperature, and the Driver of the Vehicle, happens to go..."Pedal-to-the Metal"...as in...WOT/Wide Open Throttle...where-by, the Oxygen Sensor's Voltage Signal, will usually be ignored/not used, cuz, during "Open Loop" Operating Mode, the On-Board Computer, will usually, be using, an internal, pre-determined/programmed Map, that it interacts with\and might modify, in real time, somewhat, so as to provide, the (hopefully), Correct Air/Fuel Ratio, as well as, the Correct, Ignition Timing Advance, for that, "High" (Engine) "Load", Operating Condition, of the Engine, at that particular time.................While going WOT/Wide open Throttle, the "Open Loop", Air/Fuel Ratio, might go, as Rich as, about 12.5 to 1 (ball-park figure), cuz, if going Too Lean (of an air/fuel ratio), while doing a WOT/Wide Open Throttle Run, just say...Bye-Bye Engine...cuz...Engine Damage...it will probably be, and I hope not............So, that's about it for now, and, if You have any questions or concerns at all, just give me a shout.......and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...1112223333111..................Yes, indeed, the Narrow Band type of Oxygen Sensor, will probably, be doing, that Swinging Voltage, up and down, as in Cross Counts, alright.................An Oxygen Sensor, that has up-to, about, 4 Wires coming out of it, will usually be telling me, that, there is a "Heater" built into it, so it will Heat-Up very fast, when the Engine just gets started, where-as, a "Single Wire", type of Oxygen Sensor, "depends-on", the Heat of the "Exhaust Gas", that's coming out of the Engine, and through the Exhaust System, to Heat it up, which does, take more time, to, get it to heat up, to that 600 Degrees Fahrenheit temperature, or Hotter, so the Oxygen Sensor, will start working properly..................Oxygen Sensors, will Wear-out eventually.................Sometimes, when they start to wear-out, or get contaminated, they might, start Responding too Slowly, or quit working all-together, and, there might even be a "Warning Light", on the Dash-board, "Lighting-up", to tell You, that, there's one, or more Problems, that the Vehicle's, On-Board Computer has "Detected", and probably, will have, One or More "Trouble-Codes", stored in its "Memory"..................Depending on the type of Oxygen Sensor, and how well, and Clean, that the Engine is running, will usually, help determine, just how long, that, One or More, Oxygen Sensors, in the same Vehicle, will usually last................From what I recall, some Oxygen Sensors, depending on, their particular design, can last about, 50,000 Miles, while, some of the other ones, can last, up-to, oh, about 100,000 Miles, there-abouts, as long as, the Engine Runs Cleanly, and Properly, as well, that is................Are You having some kind of Trouble with Your Vehicle at all...???.................If, and when-ever, You, or Someone-else, Removes the Oxygen Sensor, then, have a look at, the end of it, that, was exposed to the exhaust gas..........Sometimes, they can have, a black Carbon coating on them, and that's telling me, that, there might be a problem, with the Fuel (injection?) system, or, maybe, might even be, something along the lines, of a weak, or, misfiring Ignition System, and hopefully, Not Both, at the very same time...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol......and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I see you not fully understand how oxigen sensor have to work. for example 5:10, 6:38.
Greetings...megstuBMW...........Thanks for watching...........Well, maybe, I didn't realize, at to what, was supposed to happen, way back when, I made this particular video, as it applies to, a narrow band oxygen sensor's, so called "cross-counts" (aka, switching) alright, but, as of now, I'm pretty sure, that I kinda know, what really should be happening, and is, as follows...........In order to make a properly functioning, narrow band oxygen sensor, produce the "cross counts", as in, kinda like a wave, that goes above and below, the (stoichiometric) 450 millivolt line (.45 volts), then, the oxygen sensor must be installed in the vehicle's exhaust system, pre-cat (as in, before the catalytic converter), while having the vehicle's engine warmed up enough, and running, at a low load/cruising speed, or, at idle speed, so the vehicle's on-board computer, will be able, to go into, the "closed loop" operating mode..........The (not so smart), narrow band oxygen sensor, only knows stoichiometric (14.7 to 1 air/fuel ratio), or, that it's too rich, or, too lean, so, the computer, changes the fuel injector's pulse width, back and forth, from, too lean, then to, too rich, then, back to, too lean again, and keeps repeating, these so called "cross counts", and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
so where are these volts coming from?
the sensor creates voltage?
A volt meter measures voltage, but where is it coming from?
Greetings...1112223333111.............Thanks for watching............The Oxygen Sensor, that You saw, in this UA-cam Video of mine, is known as the..."Zirconia"...type, and, is also called, a Narrow Band type as well, and, if it's working Ok, it will usually Output a Voltage, up to, no more than, about 1 Volt, when the sensing end of it, is Heated Up-to, about 600 Degrees Fahrenheit or Hotter...............The Lower the Voltage reading (closer to Zero), the Leaner the Air/Fuel Ratio will be................The Closer to 1 Volt, then, the Richer, the Air/Fuel Ratio will be...........There is also a..."Titania"...type of Oxygen Sensor as well, and it's, (Ohms) "Resistance" will change (Not Voltage...!!!), when heated up properly...................There is also a Wide Band, type of Oxygen Sensor as well, that will probably be outputting, a somewhat higher Voltage (maybe, about 5 Volts maximum perhaps), and is vey accurate, as compared to, the Narrow Band type of Oxygen Sensor.................Maybe, do an internet search, for the different types of Oxygen Sensors, cuz, some of those Websites, that are out there, sure do, go into, some rather fine detail, I must say....and...........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
oh ok I didnt know that.
I tested mine in the car and it was bouncing from 0.1 to 0.8 volts.
I guess thats ok?
Greetings...1112223333111.................Well, if Your particular Oxygen Sensor, is the Narrow Band type, then, I'd say, that, it's probably working, as it should be doing, alright..................What You are probably seeing, when the Voltage "Fluctuates/goes Up and Down", from that 0.1 to 0.8 Volts, is usually, what is known as/called..."Cross Counts"....................Lettuce (lol) see now....."Half-Way", between 0.1 and 0.8 should put Us, at about .45 Volts, which should be, what is referred to, as being..."Stoichiometric"...that be, where, the Air to Fuel Ratio, is at, about, 14.7 to 1 (air/fuel ratio, while also, being at, somewhere near sea level as well, perhaps), and that particular..."Stoichiometric"... Air/Fuel Ratio, is, such that, the Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, will supposedly, be Burned up, somewhat Completely, and usually, will take place, when the Engine is fully warmed up-to Operating Temperature, while also, for the most part, be, having the Engine, at Idle Speed, or, just Cruising along, not too fast, at a steady speed, that will usually have the Vehicle's On-Board Computer, "in", what is known as, the "Closed Loop" Operating Mode, and, that's about the only time, that the Vehicle's, On-Board Computer, will actually be "Listening-to", what the Oxygen Sensor/s, have to say, in respect to, whatever Voltage Signal, that the Oxygen Sensor/s, are Outputting/Sending to that On-Board Computer, at the time................The On-Board Computer's..."Open Loop"...Operating "Mode", will usually be happening, when the Engine is Started Cold, and is just warming up, and also, something-like, when the Engine "is" fully warmed up, to operating temperature, and the Driver of the Vehicle, happens to go..."Pedal-to-the Metal"...as in...WOT/Wide Open Throttle...where-by, the Oxygen Sensor's Voltage Signal, will usually be ignored/not used, cuz, during "Open Loop" Operating Mode, the On-Board Computer, will usually, be using, an internal, pre-determined/programmed Map, that it interacts with\and might modify, in real time, somewhat, so as to provide, the (hopefully), Correct Air/Fuel Ratio, as well as, the Correct, Ignition Timing Advance, for that, "High" (Engine) "Load", Operating Condition, of the Engine, at that particular time.................While going WOT/Wide open Throttle, the "Open Loop", Air/Fuel Ratio, might go, as Rich as, about 12.5 to 1 (ball-park figure), cuz, if going Too Lean (of an air/fuel ratio), while doing a WOT/Wide Open Throttle Run, just say...Bye-Bye Engine...cuz...Engine Damage...it will probably be, and I hope not............So, that's about it for now, and, if You have any questions or concerns at all, just give me a shout.......and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
its a single wire older style.
it was going every voltage
Greetings...1112223333111..................Yes, indeed, the Narrow Band type of Oxygen Sensor, will probably, be doing, that Swinging Voltage, up and down, as in Cross Counts, alright.................An Oxygen Sensor, that has up-to, about, 4 Wires coming out of it, will usually be telling me, that, there is a "Heater" built into it, so it will Heat-Up very fast, when the Engine just gets started, where-as, a "Single Wire", type of Oxygen Sensor, "depends-on", the Heat of the "Exhaust Gas", that's coming out of the Engine, and through the Exhaust System, to Heat it up, which does, take more time, to, get it to heat up, to that 600 Degrees Fahrenheit temperature, or Hotter, so the Oxygen Sensor, will start working properly..................Oxygen Sensors, will Wear-out eventually.................Sometimes, when they start to wear-out, or get contaminated, they might, start Responding too Slowly, or quit working all-together, and, there might even be a "Warning Light", on the Dash-board, "Lighting-up", to tell You, that, there's one, or more Problems, that the Vehicle's, On-Board Computer has "Detected", and probably, will have, One or More "Trouble-Codes", stored in its "Memory"..................Depending on the type of Oxygen Sensor, and how well, and Clean, that the Engine is running, will usually, help determine, just how long, that, One or More, Oxygen Sensors, in the same Vehicle, will usually last................From what I recall, some Oxygen Sensors, depending on, their particular design, can last about, 50,000 Miles, while, some of the other ones, can last, up-to, oh, about 100,000 Miles, there-abouts, as long as, the Engine Runs Cleanly, and Properly, as well, that is................Are You having some kind of Trouble with Your Vehicle at all...???.................If, and when-ever, You, or Someone-else, Removes the Oxygen Sensor, then, have a look at, the end of it, that, was exposed to the exhaust gas..........Sometimes, they can have, a black Carbon coating on them, and that's telling me, that, there might be a problem, with the Fuel (injection?) system, or, maybe, might even be, something along the lines, of a weak, or, misfiring Ignition System, and hopefully, Not Both, at the very same time...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol......and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.