Watching your videos for years; always amazed by the thought processes going on in your head. I'm going to say again as I have said before quoting my Engineer father "There is nothing greater than an idea that's time has come!"
logging/editing a project adds time and complexity, and no doubt hassle, so thank you for your time and effort, looking forward to the next cliffhanger😜
Mount the winch on the carriage tube and bolt a pulley on the top of the tube where you placed the winch in the video, run your cable down to the horizontal slide tube and weld on an eye bolt! Accomplish the same task but when you want to remove the carriage it’s a matter of a pulley bolt no cutting!
Cut a plate to cover the top with brackets for a pully on top that come's out with a pin. Pully just a 1/2" larger than the post so the cable don't hit the post. Mount the winch at the bottom on opposite side. To pull the center beam just disconnect cable, pull pin for pully wheel and slide off. Very good idea and it would make it to where you could change or fix the center with no cutting or rewelding.
Donn, I wish you would discuss the engineering & design aspects of your projects more, perhaps at the very beginning of each new series, so we could visualize and ponder the projects more intimately and follow your thinking.
This is the first project that I have no clue what you're building. That being said, I'm still enjoying the process and can't wait to see how this works
I think it might be neat to see a lathe restoration series after this one. Or more like partial disassembly, thorough cleanup and replacement of expired stuff. I have a feeling many would like to watch that type of content, especially if you first show them a lathe full to the brim with chips.
Hi Donn, Again as always, great work. I especially like your weld removal in the tubing. (Genius) Can't wait to see this cut wood. All the best, and thanks for the video.
Interesting video, as always. I've seen people suggest pieces cut from cheap kitchen cutting boards - the ones made from PTFE (Teflon) or HDPE - as an alternative way to reduce the friction of sliding parts. I've never tried it - and I don't know how you'd attach it to the runners - but it could be something to try if the brass bolts don't prove ideal in the future. Thanks for the videos.
In the meat processing plant I worked in we attached UHMW PE onto the stainless steel with bolts and nuts the bolt holes were countersunk into the plastic and the wear pieces were replaced before the bolts were exposed metal to metal.
But if the surface gets rusty, the rust will grind the plastic away extremely quickly, the brass is harder and will probably scrape some of the rust off. But of course it will also wear relatively fast on the rusty slideways. To prevent the ways from rusting he can put grease on them, but usually you don't want grease on exposed surfaces on woodworking machines because the sawdust will stick to the grease.
I'll try to remember to say it next time. And you're right, there are a couple of wasted opportunities to say "Like a glove!" in this video for sure. 😀
If you watch fireball tool channel Jason shows a very clever tool easy to make that will shave those welds out of the inside of square tubing fast and easy. It is almost like a broach that you drag through the tube using all-thread and a impact or a ratchet. Very clever. He has a video on just it but I do not remember the tite, but if you watch the build of a his massive red vise he demo's it then. This is looking good I am ready to see you start cutting lumber.
I have just discovered your friend "Ants pants", he is quite a hard worker and kinda funny too. You kids over in your country are all hard workers... I look forwards to see this type of mill in operation as I have owned a similar type mill and really did not like it too well.
great build on the swing saw, i'll subscribe to see how it progresses , I have seen two versions , one with a verticle beam and one with a beam set on a 45*.... I like the idea of cutting both directions and milling the log off the ground..
I did have almost the same idé about a saw Mill like this, last year but my idé was not that professional like yours! Keep going man i really enjoy follow your projekts😊
You should make a hinged and pin slider that opens or is fully removable. 🤩🤩By taking both the short slider tube ends back off and cut out one side out of the box tube making a C channel. Than weld pieces of pipe on both sides and corrisponding to the pieces of pipe welded on the plate. Than slide your hing pins into the pipes to lock the slider to the plate. 🤔🤔 This would solve your dismantling problem. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐👈👈🤩
I personally would make this beam longer than 6m because 6.10m logs are common and you need room to overpass the ends with the rig. Maybe you don't even want to cut these long logs, just wondering here... waiting to see the resolution of how the measurements are set for both ends. Especially the horizontal way. Like the project! Cheers mate! 👍
I've considered the wasted space on the beam for the saw carriage which rounds up to about 1,2 m. And some extra room for adjustments so I would end up with around 4,5m material which is not too bad. It's something I can haul on my timber trailer as well. The first beam I'll make will be 6m because that's the maximum size material I can legally haul on my trailer. 🤣 Cheers mate!
Good question - both ends at once with one winch but this requires some extra parts during the build but you'll see everything falling in place soon enough.👍
Looking Great good idea on the brass for the wear point ,, keep safe and we will see you in the next video .. a question on the firewood you heat the shop with it do you also heat the house with wood ??
I like your bronze wear bearings for the slide. I was thinking Rulon would be really great there but bronze is great. You could probably epoxy some larger, more substantial bronze strips in place to give you more bearing surface.
The biggest engineering challenge will be to keep the six-meter beam structurally rigid enough. A six-meter steel structure is already very heavy in itself. Add to that the motor, the saw blade and the hydraulics to make the saw blade swing. Swingblade saws undergo enormous vibrations. Catching it will be quite a job! But you have proven in the past that you can handle any challenge.
You do not need hydraulics to swing the blade. You do it by hand. A lever to swing it. You push it then pull or push and then pull it back. You should just search in UA-cam for swing blade sawmills and you will se some big ones that are electric and its all done by hand. There are very few that are fully automated unless you are willing to spend 10s of thousands or more.
I'll keep this mill manual and super simple so the weight will hopefully be no problem. No hydraulics, the pushing and pulling of the carriage will be done by hand. Vibrations can be limited with sliders and so on. I'll get to everything as I go along. Thanks for the input.👍
If you add an extra pulley to the winching system, you might be able to get finer thickness adjustment. You will effectively get 'half click' increments instead of the whole click it looks like you're getting with direct hoisting.
Just accurately drill the vertical supports and pin it at the desired heights, only use the winch to move beam up and down. This way more accurate movement is assured. As you can have marks to be sure both ends are set the same.
Can't wait for your part 5 and any more in this series! I love to watch your ingenuity to get things built and fitting together. One question I've got is where can you get the blade for this sawmill Donn? Things may be different in the USA than your home country, but I've found it difficult to obtain blades. Thanx for showing us your procedure so far.
Thanks! I ordered the blade from Latvia. I can't recall the company name at the moment. I'm more than sure there are companies that make custom blades for order in the USA too.👍
Donn, What is the longest boards you buy at the lumber store. For us 20 foot boards are super common when building. Studs are 8 feet and what ever length you decide factor in 4 feet ish for the machine. 6 meters gives you about a 14 foot use able board.
Honestly I would do a 24' center beam so you are able to do up to a 20' board. At 16' you will only be able to max cut maybe 12'. I know that may be enough but ya never know if you want to do a 16' beam or something it would be nice to have it already done and not have to redo it later.
Hey Donnie I know this is a late video and everything but I was watching you work on that slider for your saw hey what are those clamps does red clamps with the one in Baran him what kind of clamps are those can I get him here in the US please let me know if I can get them I'd like to give me a set thank you
G'day mate. Been watching you for ages and it amazes me how you just put stuff together and it works. Can I ask where you get those floppy handled F clamps from. They're a great item.
Tulee hieno "matkamallin" kenttäsaha. Tuosta voi rakentaa vaikka bobcat sovitteisen kenttäsahan, jossa saha menee puupinolle, eikä niinkuin normaalisti, että kenttäsaha asemoidaan huolella ensin sahauspaikalle ja sen jälkeen tuodaan tukit paikalle.
Nice work! What is the travel sideways and up/down? Working on a similar design with the same inspiration youtubers :) I have not cut the material for height yet, but made 1.6 m for sideways motion.
estou fazendo uma semelhante, mas encontro dificuldades em fazer parte que desliza carinho para avanco do memso sobre a torra, e como ajustar correia e motor no eixo da circular de corte, conseguirias mais videos destas partes.... ha sim fiz um engenho com volantes de 68cm, serra de 5^ motores, carinhom de torra automatico, mas a dificuldade e no afiar e dar passe e trava, precisa de muito equipamento. abandonado esta grande...
Hey! I'm doing well, thanks for the concern. I'm hauling and making firewood and dealing with a super important side project I'll be making a "start to finish" mammoth video about soon. So stay tuned. It's gonna be worth the wait I hope. 😋
You do know that these wear plates will see next to no wear right. These things will move maybe just a couple of feet per log. It would take years of use to wear them.
So the horizontal sliders need to have restrictive friction on them so the beam will stay in place while the board is cut. It'll be super logical once I finish up the end frames and you see all of it functioning.👍
Nice progress, and looking good! A question with regards to the height adjustment. Instead of the winch would you be better off using a screw adjuster?
I'll get to the winch hopefully next week when the additional parts arrive (hopefully). Then I can show how the winch will work better than a screw (in my opinion). Stay tuned for the next episode👍
Yes, turbosawmill is one source of inspiration, especially their electric manual mill. The other one is Ukrainian Igor Andreizuk homemade single beam swingblade which I'm very fond of. He did an extremely great job on it with limited materials and tools.
@@DonnDIY That's cool! Have you considered using some lighting truss for the beam? The ones used for professional lighting. You might be able to get some used for a cheap price. They are pretty straight and can usually take a lot of load. That way you won't have to weld up a million pieces of bracing for your 6 meter long beam.
More fabrication videos on ua-cam.com/users/DonnDIYvideos
Can't wait for your part 5 and any more in this series!
I love to watch your ingenuity to get things built and fitting together.
Maybe his plan didn't work and he gave up.
Watching your videos for years; always amazed by the thought processes going on in your head. I'm going to say again as I have said before quoting my Engineer father "There is nothing greater than an idea that's time has come!"
Nice 👍👍🤝 Dear friend so amazing tool 🌹☺
logging/editing a project adds time and complexity, and no doubt hassle, so thank you for your time and effort, looking forward to the next cliffhanger😜
Coming along great Donn. It's going to work eventually, I got faith in you getting it done. Stay safe and keep up the good work. Fred.
Токарный станок советский 1к62). Меня радует что используя такую раритетную технику получаются шедевры) станку лет 60 наверное где-то?
Да и паренек Русский или русскоязычный.
Been 3 weeks, he posted more frequently on recent videos, I'm getting concerned. Donn, you ok?
Mount the winch on the carriage tube and bolt a pulley on the top of the tube where you placed the winch in the video, run your cable down to the horizontal slide tube and weld on an eye bolt! Accomplish the same task but when you want to remove the carriage it’s a matter of a pulley bolt no cutting!
Cut a plate to cover the top with brackets for a pully on top that come's out with a pin. Pully just a 1/2" larger than the post so the cable don't hit the post. Mount the winch at the bottom on opposite side. To pull the center beam just disconnect cable, pull pin for pully wheel and slide off. Very good idea and it would make it to where you could change or fix the center with no cutting or rewelding.
You better make your own video.
@@davesimeon7282 you ain't kidding.
Amazing what comes out of your hand, i really like how you work congratulations and good luck ❤
Donn, I wish you would discuss the engineering & design aspects of your projects more, perhaps at the very beginning of each new series, so we could visualize and ponder the projects more intimately and follow your thinking.
I'll try to remember to add a sketch of the mill into the next video. This will definitely give you an idea what it will look like.👍
@@DonnDIY Thanks much. All the best.
This is the first project that I have no clue what you're building. That being said, I'm still enjoying the process and can't wait to see how this works
Look up swing blade sawmill on UA-cam. It will make Donn’s videos more enjoyable when you have a clue. 😉
@@Crewsy I'm trying not to. I want to finish this without looking it up
Great 👌 job 👍 looks good thanks for your help big thumbs up Dave
I think it might be neat to see a lathe restoration series after this one.
Or more like partial disassembly, thorough cleanup and replacement of expired stuff.
I have a feeling many would like to watch that type of content, especially if you first show them a lathe full to the brim with chips.
Дружище надеюсь у вас всё хорошо. Очень жду очередное видео. Желаю вам удачи, здоровья и творческих успехов.
Видео без музыки отлично!
Great video without music!
🙏
Hi Donn,
Again as always, great work.
I especially like your weld removal in the
tubing. (Genius)
Can't wait to see this cut wood.
All the best, and thanks for the video.
I can't wait for you to hit a million subscribers.
I imagine something magical must happen then. 😀
@@DonnDIY You make magic every week. I just want you to get paid for it!
Super creative, can't wait for the next installment.
you are a very smart person and a dam good workmen ..
Nylon bolts work well add a few more down length of slide they’re cheap and easy to replace and slide better than the brass cheers from australia
I really enjoyed that today, looking forword to the next one
Looking good! Can't wait for the next episode.
Interesting video, as always. I've seen people suggest pieces cut from cheap kitchen cutting boards - the ones made from PTFE (Teflon) or HDPE - as an alternative way to reduce the friction of sliding parts. I've never tried it - and I don't know how you'd attach it to the runners - but it could be something to try if the brass bolts don't prove ideal in the future. Thanks for the videos.
In the meat processing plant I worked in we attached UHMW PE onto the stainless steel with bolts and nuts the bolt holes were countersunk into the plastic and the wear pieces were replaced before the bolts were exposed metal to metal.
I have used the cheap white Ikea cutting boards for this several times and they work great for sacrificial wear plates = )
But if the surface gets rusty, the rust will grind the plastic away extremely quickly, the brass is harder and will probably scrape some of the rust off. But of course it will also wear relatively fast on the rusty slideways.
To prevent the ways from rusting he can put grease on them, but usually you don't want grease on exposed surfaces on woodworking machines because the sawdust will stick to the grease.
Just use countersunk screws
Great job Donn. I would add some wear point in the middle to avoid any deflection. 👍😉
I love your videos you are very smart and very talented you are very inspirational
We miss you here dear Donn :-)
I always hated that weld seam in those tubes. I could never understand how to remove it. This idea is great.
NICE Donny
Looking forward to the next vid.👍🏻
I was waiting for the "like a glove " quote!
Many times..was sure you'd say it...
YOU NEED TO SAY IT! 🤣
I'll try to remember to say it next time. And you're right, there are a couple of wasted opportunities to say "Like a glove!" in this video for sure. 😀
If you watch fireball tool channel Jason shows a very clever tool easy to make that will shave those welds out of the inside of square tubing fast and easy. It is almost like a broach that you drag through the tube using all-thread and a impact or a ratchet. Very clever. He has a video on just it but I do not remember the tite, but if you watch the build of a his massive red vise he demo's it then. This is looking good I am ready to see you start cutting lumber.
I have just discovered your friend "Ants pants", he is quite a hard worker and kinda funny too. You kids over in your country are all hard workers... I look forwards to see this type of mill in operation as I have owned a similar type mill and really did not like it too well.
great build on the swing saw, i'll subscribe to see how it progresses , I have seen two versions , one with a verticle beam and one with a beam set on a 45*.... I like the idea of cutting both directions and milling the log off the ground..
I'll pick up this project again after this week when the 8x8 Argo is finished. I like the idea of cutting both ways too.💪💪
hello👋from the Netherlands 🇳🇱.
thanks for the video Donn .
Sincerely Hollandduck 🇳🇱🦆
I did have almost the same idé about a saw Mill like this, last year but my idé was not that professional like yours! Keep going man i really enjoy follow your projekts😊
loved the fly cutter, 👍
Yay. Donn is building the first prop for his upcoming horror film. 🤣😂
Love watching your thought process in action.
Hello,Donn DIY, your projects a very good job and thanks for a nice video!:);)
Awesome😉thank you , I learn everything with your video 👍
You should make a hinged and pin slider that opens or is fully removable. 🤩🤩By taking both the short slider tube ends back off and cut out one side out of the box tube making a C channel. Than weld pieces of pipe on both sides and corrisponding to the pieces of pipe welded on the plate. Than slide your hing pins into the pipes to lock the slider to the plate. 🤔🤔 This would solve your dismantling problem. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐👈👈🤩
I personally would make this beam longer than 6m because 6.10m logs are common and you need room to overpass the ends with the rig. Maybe you don't even want to cut these long logs, just wondering here... waiting to see the resolution of how the measurements are set for both ends. Especially the horizontal way. Like the project! Cheers mate! 👍
I've considered the wasted space on the beam for the saw carriage which rounds up to about 1,2 m. And some extra room for adjustments so I would end up with around 4,5m material which is not too bad. It's something I can haul on my timber trailer as well. The first beam I'll make will be 6m because that's the maximum size material I can legally haul on my trailer. 🤣 Cheers mate!
@@DonnDIY Alright, that's fair. Option is to make a bolted extension for beam if needed.
Powiem Ci że czekam z niecierpliwością na dalsze filmy, długo Cię nie ma, mam nadzieję że wszystko ok? Pozdrawiam z Polski:)
👍👍👍 travail propre et précis ,,génial 👍👍👍
Great job
Height adjustment via winches means you will have to run from end to end to adjust height? Or are you going to adjust both ends height by one winch?
Good question - both ends at once with one winch but this requires some extra parts during the build but you'll see everything falling in place soon enough.👍
Wasn't easy to use round rebar as a rail and bearing wheels like the ones used on sliding doors?
Good job boy!!!! keep going
Looking Great good idea on the brass for the wear point ,, keep safe and we will see you in the next video .. a question on the firewood you heat the shop with it do you also heat the house with wood ??
Yes, I heat both the shop and house with wood. Thus I'm quite obsessed with wood, firewood and wood related things. 😀
@Donn DIY I burn wood to heat my garage.. I work with metal and wood .. wood work is calming for me .
Great work.
Mr. Chop told me to subscribe. Who am I to argue?
Pouco mais de 1 hora após a postagem e já tem 9.500 visualizações.. canal bom é assim mesmo.
Fala Paulo, achei q era o único brasileiro q curtia esse canal😂😂... o cara é monstro, pena q deu uma pausa nos vídeos. Abraço!
Lookin good!
very good skills, and I like this video.
Awesome. ✌️
Nice work
Hello, great series so far. Any updates on the project? Thanks
Good ideas brother
We miss your videos Donn
Great video
I like your bronze wear bearings for the slide. I was thinking Rulon would be really great there but bronze is great. You could probably epoxy some larger, more substantial bronze strips in place to give you more bearing surface.
The biggest engineering challenge will be to keep the six-meter beam structurally rigid enough. A six-meter steel structure is already very heavy in itself. Add to that the motor, the saw blade and the hydraulics to make the saw blade swing. Swingblade saws undergo enormous vibrations. Catching it will be quite a job! But you have proven in the past that you can handle any challenge.
You do not need hydraulics to swing the blade. You do it by hand. A lever to swing it. You push it then pull or push and then pull it back. You should just search in UA-cam for swing blade sawmills and you will se some big ones that are electric and its all done by hand. There are very few that are fully automated unless you are willing to spend 10s of thousands or more.
I'll keep this mill manual and super simple so the weight will hopefully be no problem. No hydraulics, the pushing and pulling of the carriage will be done by hand. Vibrations can be limited with sliders and so on. I'll get to everything as I go along. Thanks for the input.👍
Seams to me that you will need brass in the center or it will sag. But, doing that will cause contact and twist issues.
very wonderful
Gracias! Al pendiente de lo que compartas!👍😊
Hello Donn good job
If you add an extra pulley to the winching system, you might be able to get finer thickness adjustment. You will effectively get 'half click' increments instead of the whole click it looks like you're getting with direct hoisting.
Just accurately drill the vertical supports and pin it at the desired heights, only use the winch to move beam up and down. This way more accurate movement is assured. As you can have marks to be sure both ends are set the same.
Love it keep it up ❣️
like 👍😘
Thank you!🙏
I wanted to see the finished saw you were making.
Can't wait for your part 5 and any more in this series!
I love to watch your ingenuity to get things built and fitting together.
One question I've got is where can you get the blade for this sawmill Donn?
Things may be different in the USA than your home country, but I've found it difficult to obtain blades.
Thanx for showing us your procedure so far.
Thanks! I ordered the blade from Latvia. I can't recall the company name at the moment. I'm more than sure there are companies that make custom blades for order in the USA too.👍
Mr. Chop had a good meal today
Donn, What is the longest boards you buy at the lumber store. For us 20 foot boards are super common when building. Studs are 8 feet and what ever length you decide factor in 4 feet ish for the machine. 6 meters gives you about a 14 foot use able board.
No worries, I can always build a longer beam. 😀
Very interesting design, I'd have probably mounted more brass wear pads under the vertical part of the frame where the majority of the weight is.
Hope all is well my dude 🙏🏽.
So good ii boss part 5
Honestly I would do a 24' center beam so you are able to do up to a 20' board. At 16' you will only be able to max cut maybe 12'. I know that may be enough but ya never know if you want to do a 16' beam or something it would be nice to have it already done and not have to redo it later.
Just curious if roller bearings instead of brass bolts were not a better option?
Wouldn't mind seeing an updated video of this build.
Absolutely, me too. 😀 I'm restarting this project this week. An update video is coming around Friday/Saturday (September 22-23) , stay tuned.👍
@@DonnDIY oh I am. I'm wanting to build a twin blade but want to see how you do yours first. Might change it up to a swing blade.
Hey Donnie I know this is a late video and everything but I was watching you work on that slider for your saw hey what are those clamps does red clamps with the one in Baran him what kind of clamps are those can I get him here in the US please let me know if I can get them I'd like to give me a set thank you
Move your stock under the roof and save grinding. A 40 foot seacontainer would do.
Not sure about the brass bolts, such a small surface... will it not wear really quickly?
Awesome
G'day mate. Been watching you for ages and it amazes me how you just put stuff together and it works. Can I ask where you get those floppy handled F clamps from. They're a great item.
These are Piher clamps 👍
Tulee hieno "matkamallin" kenttäsaha.
Tuosta voi rakentaa vaikka bobcat sovitteisen kenttäsahan, jossa saha menee puupinolle, eikä niinkuin normaalisti, että kenttäsaha asemoidaan huolella ensin sahauspaikalle ja sen jälkeen tuodaan tukit paikalle.
Hmm, taitaa kuitenkin olla tuossa se etu, että ei tarvitse 1.2metristä laippaa ja 50hevosvoimaa, että saa muutamat laudat sahattua.
avanzando amigo
Nice work! What is the travel sideways and up/down? Working on a similar design with the same inspiration youtubers :)
I have not cut the material for height yet, but made 1.6 m for sideways motion.
Здравствуйте, не провиснет каретка в середине?
Comment to help your channel 👍👍👍.
maybe add two bronze stops on each side of the upright, closer to where the upright is attached...
great work
estou fazendo uma semelhante, mas encontro dificuldades em fazer parte que desliza carinho para avanco do memso sobre a torra, e como ajustar correia e motor no eixo da circular de corte, conseguirias mais videos destas partes.... ha sim fiz um engenho com volantes de 68cm, serra de 5^ motores, carinhom de torra automatico, mas a dificuldade e no afiar e dar passe e trava, precisa de muito equipamento. abandonado esta grande...
Just checking to make sure you are doing well, haven’t heard from you in a month. Miss your videos.
Hey! I'm doing well, thanks for the concern. I'm hauling and making firewood and dealing with a super important side project I'll be making a "start to finish" mammoth video about soon. So stay tuned. It's gonna be worth the wait I hope. 😋
@@DonnDIY
@@carlcarpenter507 Thanks for checking in on him. I was watching Make it Extrema new short about their welding rims and mentioned Donn.
@@DonnDIY 👍👍💪💪
Thank you
Why on earth would you go with brass wear plates when you could have used bearings in those locations as well?
You do know that these wear plates will see next to no wear right. These things will move maybe just a couple of feet per log. It would take years of use to wear them.
So the horizontal sliders need to have restrictive friction on them so the beam will stay in place while the board is cut. It'll be super logical once I finish up the end frames and you see all of it functioning.👍
Hello Donn, a friday without a video of yours ... the horror :). How are you doing?
Nice progress, and looking good! A question with regards to the height adjustment. Instead of the winch would you be better off using a screw adjuster?
I'll get to the winch hopefully next week when the additional parts arrive (hopefully). Then I can show how the winch will work better than a screw (in my opinion). Stay tuned for the next episode👍
Wann geht's hier mal weiter ?
Really interresting build! As everything you do is! ^_^
Is the inspiration for this saw something similar to the turbosawmill?
Yes, turbosawmill is one source of inspiration, especially their electric manual mill. The other one is Ukrainian Igor Andreizuk homemade single beam swingblade which I'm very fond of. He did an extremely great job on it with limited materials and tools.
@@DonnDIY That's cool!
Have you considered using some lighting truss for the beam? The ones used for professional lighting. You might be able to get some used for a cheap price. They are pretty straight and can usually take a lot of load. That way you won't have to weld up a million pieces of bracing for your 6 meter long beam.
Are you sharpening your cold saw blades yourself?
Hi, no. I've just bought a new blade so far. I'll collect a couple of blades and then let them be sharpened.
Are you ok.. Really miss seeing your videos.. Hope all is well..
Hey bro can you please help me to build sawmill plan