STOP Printing Calibration Cubes!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- Get the Calibration Flow and Written Guide: vector3d.shop/products/califl...
Quite simply, this 3D Printer calibration method greatly improved my prints. This calibration flower is a simple and robust method for calibrating the X and Y axis of your 3D printer to get more dimensionally accurate prints. I hardly need to show you how to calibrate your 3D printers, you simply, print, measure and update your settings. Most instances only require a single print to get amazing results but if your printer is poorly set up, you may need to repeat the process a second time for best results. In my opinion it's the best 3d printer calibration method available at the moment.
Patreon: / vector3d
Twitter: @Adam_V3D
Join the Vector 3D Discord: / discord
Vector 3D Shop: vector3d.shop
Tools:
Wera Hex Keys: amzn.to/3gIYdNV
Wera Ratchet and Socket Set: https: amzn.to/3gH0OrY
Knipex Cutter: amzn.to/2Wylf2M
Ifixit Tool kit: amzn.to/3BdJXES
Wire Stripper Tool: amzn.to/3kC7hoW
3M Applicator Tool: amzn.to/3jqc8ud
0:00 How Accurate is your 3D Printer?
0:38 Calibration Cubes
1:07 How Size Affects Error
1:37 Internal And External Dimensions
2:22 Filament Shrinkage
2:49 Text Ruins Dimensions
3:13 Don't Ignore Skew
4:05 My Calibration Flower Design
7:30 Celebration - Наука та технологія
Very clever approach, I think this is first skew and multipoint single print calibration I've actually had faith in.
Great stuff - I've always been dissatisfied with the so-called calibration cubes, and instead printed much larger strips etc - but haven't been measuring internal dimensions (obvious as soon as you said it that's needed!), and just never thought to check skew, wasn't aware it was something that could be accounted for in the firmware! A new dawn of dimensionally accurate prints awaits!
Thanks for taking the time to do this mate. I just got a 3D printer and did a cube calibration and was wondering how to correct the settings and in youtube i found this video. THanks again.
Very nice indeed! I have printed some 5 or 6 cubes in a year on 11 printers as i never thought it has any real use at 2x2x2cm, but i did print a 50x50x50 once as it is more useful for accuracy.. This video changes that! 😃
You can tell a lot of effort went into this :) I just purchased it from your store. Keep up the good work
Love the design, thanks for sharing! My go-to calibration object has always been the "5 mm calibration steps" (scaled 2x because 5 mm is too puny for a 0.4 mm nozzle): it has the same advantages of internal + external dimensions for measurement, but also has a little section for bridging, and the progressively smaller tiers also let you gauge the cooling (increasing "overextrusion" at higher Z is usually a symptom of insufficient cooling in my experience). But it doesn't have anything for skew, which is something I've never even thought about before, so I'll definitely be giving your flower a shot 🙂
Wonderful good sir ! This seems like very valuable time and effort I can’t wait to start checking all my printers with this test! Ty very much for all your hard work here sir. !
Really appreciate this calibration test. With a couple of prints I was able to go from ~0.43% XY error and ~0.23° skew to ~0.04% XY error and 0.06° skew. Trickiest thing is getting your calipers squared up with the part when taking measurements. Wonder if as another suggested having notches for this would help.
Hello! He actually updated the flower to make measuring with the calipers easier
It actually makes sense! Nice idea for calibration that isn't just the classic (terrible) tweaking x/y/z steps/mm until your calibration cube measures 20.00
Looking good, will definitely get this for my next calibration :D
One thing I would find interesting would be skew/accuracy of the z axis, as I feel this is the weakest link in a lot of 'cheap' printers
Just bought this! I've been printing some multipart pieces that did sort of fit-but-not-really, and i was already on the edge of buying this. Seeing how the parts ended up fitting, i bit the bullet. Being 00:11AM here i may not print the flower just now, but i'm already testing the bridge part. Cheers!
Thanks for this. Just purchased the files and I'm starting a new set of calibration prints. Cheers!
Great contribution to our Community! Thank you!
What a great way to get better dimensional accuracy measurements. Love it!
This is great, I calibrated my Voron 2.4 printer with it and since I did it in ASA I can now use it as a impromptu coaster haha. Thank you very much
Absolutely brilliant! I hope you use that congratuling yourself step liberally! Thank you for sharing this.
I have an older CR-10S printer and use Cura as a slicing program. There is an add on for Cura called skew compensation. I found this add on to be really useful and it was quite an eye opener to discover that my precious printer was not all that accurate on the three basic planes as I expected it to be ! It was even out by a fraction of a degree on the XY plane. Fortunately, the fix for this plane required a relatively quick and flat print and a bit of basic algebra. For the other two planes I designed a kind of pulley with a sturdy axial piece and printed a few. I am fortunate to have a large old Meccano set and built myself a test rig to analyze the wobble on a number of these test pulleys. After about 5 or 6 tries I had the wobble reduced to virtually zero. This was a very interesting project on its own !
Thanks for this. The video from Stefan brought me here.
I wish you the best outcome in this difficult period (I went through it 3 years ago).
I appreciate the thought and the effort you put into this. Your excel and pdf are what convinced me it is worth purchasing.
Awesome, thank you! I do try and go beyond just the model because making sure you use it correctly makes a huge difference to the success. Enjoy :)
Ran this on mine and my errors were 0.02, 0.02, 0.06 so not bad. This is a great tool to check for accuracy and the excel file is great addition. Well done!
Interesting new approach 👍😀
I wil give it a go soon
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂
No problem 👍
Started printing models with gears and several parts interacting with one another and noticed some dimensional inaccuracies. Thanks for the content! I'll be calibrating this way for now on!
Looks more like a waffle than a flower 😛
SHhhhhh, nobody noticed. 😉
Great work, well thought out, thank you!
Brilliant👍. I am in the middle of calibrating my printer and profiles do perfect timing. I have always found the calibration cubes less than ideal.
Hello, Adam, you just won yourself a new subscriber ;-)
Thanks a lot!
Great explanation of a great tool! Definitely looks superior to many of the other options for printer calibration.
Thank you. This is great. I will try this out soon. 👍👍👍👍
Thank you. I am excited to calibrate.
Nice of you to share, thanks!
My pleasure!
great info! Thanks for sharing!
Bought it! Thank you! Nice done!
Will test this right now !!!!
I loved this, great job man.
Liked and subed. This was quality work, thank you, I'll get printing immediately
Wow, that’s awesome. Better printing 2-3 of this flowers instead of 20 cubes. Voron cubes are nice to indicate lots of things, but xyz calibration normally sucks
Was able to go from 0.2 tolerance to 0.1 tolerance on a tolerance coin test, thanks!
I have often thought the letter on the cube will mess the measurements I tend to use a temp tower and a flow topless cube for my measurements but will try yours for sure
Awesome, thanks for helping our the 3DP community!
Good work! I noticed you even made sure to chamfer the edges and the bottom for even extrusion and to avoid elephant’s foot.
I was curious about this and the potential effects of that, This just sealed it for me that I'll try this soon
A possible enhancement to the flower would be notches the width of the calipers jaw along the measuring edges. This would help to measure squarely as the jaws would sit in the notches I think ?
First of all thank you designing this tool. I printed one ,measured, then did the adjustments on the printer saved the settings.
Round two same thing. It was worse than the first one . Back to square one with the measurements.
Round eight still no better than the original settings .
Decided to go back to what I had in the beginning.
You only need to do once.
I spent ages making adjustments to get a calibration cube 20.00mm on all measurements on an Ender 3, I am curious to know how this machine will fare with the flower calibration
Using the filament shrinkage setting in superslicer with a very small value, eg 99.965% results in lots of overextrusion and print looking crappy. Ultimately after hours of work to arrive at the desired adjustment value, the recommended strategy does not work. Tried with the current stable release and nightly build, same results. If perhaps I could access the source files in the protected spreadsheet, I could calculate an XY compensation factor, which requires an absolute value rather than a percentage. Recommendation: if you are going to protect the sheet, provide the values we need to plug into the slicer too for both SS shrinkage and XY compensation factor.
great thanks for sharing 👍
Wow! it's Amazing I did it well ! Perfect work !
Very Clever, Thanks...👍
Many thanks. I will be using that tomorrow after tweaking some mechanical settings today.
Or maybe not. Page not found when I try to get the files.
Ah, I found it by going to the shop and looking for it. Might be nice to mention this is £5 on this video's description. I will order one later today, seems well worth it.
wonderfull!!! Well done, I wanna print this today with diferent nozzles as well ;)
Very cool, would love to try it. Is there a compensation needed for different nozzle sizes? I am using 0.6mm.
Is there a way to input the correction code into duet printers?
Does the skew correction value changes when tighten belts right?
Lovely stuff you bring to the community! This will be a great tool for freshly built diy printers to make sure they are true and correct.
Absolutely!
Thanks for it, I bought it. Question... I can adjust the XYZ Axis steps on my display. (Marlin Community Firmware) What should I input if the Settings are not in prozent? Example: X=80, Y=100 and Z=400.
Works good, tnx
This is GENIOUS!
Thanks
Very Nice!
Thankyou. Finally can print something accurate. Being stgruggling with this for years. Now I can print usefull things. 0.11% X, 0%Y and 0.01 skew.
Well .. I don't think I can get better than this. On a Tenlog TL-D3 Pro, ran the calib flower and got a skew of 0.0012 ... on first run 😁😁😁
Really good stuff, I Will try It and report result the here
Used this system to calculate error but for a Prusa Mini, where would I add the calibration error? For XY shrinkage should I add it to printer firmware or in the Prusa Slicer settings? Make it filament specific? What about skew correction?
I'd be curious to see how this calibration flower stacks up against teaching techs website and presliced models to dial in a printer.
I think I'll use this on my son's printer as mine is pretty heavily molded, and he's got a stock ender 3.
Hello, think you vor this nice Tool.
I have a question on this Thema:
I have a Prusa Mini can I put the Correction parameter in the Start-G-Code.
Or what should I do?
Any ideas on how to apply the results from a califlower print to a Bambu X-1. While my correction factors are small, I have a large part thats very reliant on dimensional accuracy. I see in "Printer Settings" that I can add/modify the start and end g-code and its Marlin (legacy) flavor but I don't understand where to add the worksheet code.
I bought the STL and read the instructions. Basically, what you're getting at is that we should get accurate prints by changing the E-steps and rotation distance (also account for Skew)? I have always used horizontal expansion to get accurate prints but the approach here is different. Am I correct in these assumptions? Should I never depend on horizontal expansion again? Will changing rotation distance really carry over dimensional accuracy to other models and prints?
Hi hi! Nice video. How i fix the skew on a Bambu Lab P1S?
question: how do you correct skew in RRF?
Hello and thanks a lot for this video. I bought your Calibration flow, print the calibration flower on my Prusa Mini, log the measurements in the calibration calculator. OK, and now ? i'm lost.... As i can't update the Marlin's firmware of the Prusa, how can i make adjustments ? I found a X correction of 0.25% and Y correction of 0.40%. The skew correction is 0.29°. I don't know how using these measurements in the prusaSlicer.... Sorry for my English, i'm French 😉
Hi, already purchased this, but want to purchase XYZ also, is there any video regarding that ?
Is the size of the print still the best choice if you have a 500X500mm print bed, or would a larger version make sense?
Have you considered caliper tolerances in these measurements. Maybe there is nothing to change if it's readings are in tolerances of your calipers. By the way this will differ between Prusa Slicer and Cura because Cura calculate rectangle area for line protection, therefore 0.4 mm thick line which is 0.2 mm high, will be arround 0.44mm wide if you print with 100% flow for outer walls (extrusion multiplier)
Thank you!
I have just used this very successfully to calibrate my Ender 3 V2 Pro. I have two suggestions for improving the excel spread-sheet.
I'm using the Orca slicer and entered the shrinkage compensation value. However, on a 2nd calibration run the compensation value suggested by your spread-sheet doesn't take into account the currently set shrinkage value. It is an easy calculation to do, but would help if you could enter the current shrinkage value so that it does the calculation for you.
An unlocked area would be useful for entering comments on changes made.
Will definitely try it out and see how it goes.
Single print multi calibration no hassles printing 20 diff stls.
I'm assuming this works for Deltas , Corexy's and Cartesians since the logic behind it is the same
5:40 can you also use these for PLA and other filaments?
Great tool! thanks!
The description says: "If you have CoreXY...use the average of the errors". But where do I put the error? the spreadsheet does not account for CoreXY then.
also: The inner an douter errors have hitns when inner is neg and outer is positive and vice versa. But mine are both negative. what does that mean?
Great video. You have given this obessive tinkerer a new goal!
Is the possible with duet, Reprap?
yeah, if I remember correctly, the Skew compensation is M556 for reprap, so if you have your skew angle, you can input:
M556 S100 X[100*sin(skew_angle)] Y0 Z0
Obviously, complete the calculation with the sin() seperate and just input the result into the gcode command. Y and Z are zero because those represent YZ and XZ skew respectively.
Very nice!
I wonder how hard it would be to create a hexagon-based version for delta printers…
Cool idea as always! Is there a way To calibrate skew on XZ and YZ too?
Well, not with this design, no. The thing with those direction and this method is that it requires printing 45degree overhangs which will have inaccuracy of their own. I'll try to think of something though
It's great that Michael Falk found a new career after his news gig
You're correct, this is a superior measurement system for calibration. My only concern with this method (as its not described in the video) is how you're determining/separating form from position. All measurements are measurements of form/size. Whereas, I believe, skew would be a measurement of POSITION. This means that all measurements relating to skew (or features out of place) should originate from the same feature, ie a Datum. You could do this by applying a cylindrical feature in the center of the part and cylindrical features at the diagonals and measure center-line to center-line for these lengths. This would probably yield less than 3% improvement, but for accuracy sake... now you know.
You mean like how a ball-bar test checks movement?
Not gunna lie, I'd love to be able to do that ki d of test on my printer
Thank you for this! I'm converting my old ender 3 v2 to a belt driven z system (just because and it looks fun) and this will be a fantastic calibration test to test and tune it.
Hi there! Please, tell me why are you going to replace the Z thread to a belt? I ask because the threaded rod is actually the only always accurate axis in the Ender (since each turn will move exactly 8mm, it is the specification of the thread). 🤔
@@GeekDetour For no other reason than it would be a nice and fun thing thing to do actually. I was going to do a dual Z rod with stepper motor upgrade - even get some acme rods that I know are true - but I had some Gates belt laying around and the mod would essentially give me the same effect as a dual Z rod; perfect X gantry control.
So this has nothing to do with better quality or the like. Purely a fun mod to apply to the printer. Like adding linear rails. Won't increase quality, just reduce maintenance and guarantee printing parity from print to print. :)
Great job
thanks
Hi, this is an awesome piece of work and hugely appreciated. Question - will this also be valid to use on a Delta printer?
Yes, absolutely.
@@Vector3DP purchased, well worth the very small investment and a huge value. Thanks for the work!
Currently printing this on all my 5 FDM printers ,i do have a question, my tenlog and ender 5 plus i don't have access to the firmware so i won't be able to change the skew correct???
And does the nozzle size matters for this calibration?
I have Prusa i3 mk3 where do I add step/mm info and rotation dist. Thanks.
Bought so my wife wouldn't think the Mitutoyo calipers I wanted for Christmas weren't a waste... :)
Congratulations! I like this calibration tool and I seems good price 6 euros for your effort and intelligence
Awesome, I’ll be doing this for my Ender 3 right now
These are pretty great as coasters actually.
I'm guessing that you measure inner dimensions to cancel out actual line width. Though using your model you can not only measure shrinkage rate but also horizontal expansion (Cura setting, there is also one in super slocer). Shrinkage = (measurement of 100mm - measurement of 50mm ) / (100-50); horizontal expansion = (100 * shrinkage - measurement of 100mm) / 2.
I'll definitely be doing this. I'd love to know how skew my printers are
Some people who thought theirs were square have turned out very skew. it's quite surprising.
Does this show how to work it in Cura?
Thanks for the great work, I really appreciate it! However, after printing and measuring, I'm a bit lost what to do with the results. I understand how to process the skew value, but where do the X and Y values go? In the video you mention the x/Y Shrinkage setting in SuperSlicer, but that's one value, but I have two different values for X and Y - so which one to apply where and how? Maybe I'm missing something really obvious, but atm, I think this part could use a little more detail. A quick pointer where to put which value would be greatly appreciated.
V6 spreadsheet with more guidance and details on implementation coming soon.
@@Vector3DP Fantastic news! Thanks so much.
Nice. Just wondering if you have made any allowance for elephants foot? This tends to screw up dimensional measurements for anything on the the print bed unless you are that rare person who has perfectly levelled your bed and set the correct z offset, etc. I know that I tend to err in being a little too close to the bed to get good first layer adhesion.
Yes, a chamfer around the bottom edge of the print deals with that.
@@Vector3DP cool, thanks
Yes, was also wondering about the Horizontal Expansion that I ordinary use to make mechanical prints?
I do not suppose this value will affect your test results though, as you are averaging inside and outside measurements.
I found that the best way to adjust step/mm is actually to measure the physical x y z movement of the printhead , 3d printed objects tend to shrink when cooled.
I bought a dial indicator exactly for that reason. That being said, I have never attempted so many measurements on a calibration print, and never for skew, so I’ll be giving this new method a try.
Yes, this measures the actual filament after shrinkage. its designed to adapt a tuned printer to produce parts that are dimensionally accurate after printing and cooling.
Prusa printers have wizard for detecting skew etc, would this still be useful?
You could use it to measure the material shrinkage still, if anything I suppose it could verify the results of the Prusa
I don't understand how to use the Klipper G-code fix and the Marlin firmware adjustment. Is just one of the two needed? Or both? I also don't really know where to use them.
I'm currently using Ultimaker Cura 4.12.1 and an Ender 3 V2 on firmware v1.0.2. I see I can change the starting G-code in Cura for my machine. Is this where I should put the G-code fix? How do I know if my machine supports Klipper? Is Klipper firmware for my machine? Or is it a flavor of G-code? I am even more lost with the Marline firmware adjustment. Any one can help me?
Can anyone point to a guide on how to apply these results to a prusa MK4?
I found lots of forums complaining about changes to "pronterface" whatever that is, but have not been able to find an actual step by step for adjusting the printer firmware.
how do you calibrate for z axis?