Epever MT50 programming for lithium batteries: Here's a link to my MT50 programming video. I don't know if Epever has fixed the software bug that I encountered when trying to program it but this is the method that worked for me. ua-cam.com/video/43KhqCEdP3A/v-deo.html
Always a treat to see what you do below on any of your projects, particularly both the electrical and below the forward bunk. Very clean and ultra functional. Big thumbs up!
Nice, I picked up an F24 Mk I last summer. Spent 4 months sailing it every day we could and now have it on the hard while I work through some maintenance and updates while looking forward to getting it back on the water. Your work was my inspiration.
Great job on all of the mods James! Not sure I would feel comfortable on the Corsair in any kind of a sea state but it looks a blast to sail in moderate conditions. Thanks, Ben S/V DAWN
Very nice work. I doubt I will ever buy another boat, having a half dozen from a Laser to a Corbin 39, but a 24-27 foot trimaran might make the cut one day LOL.
Thanks for showing us your Corsair. Man I would love that boat. Have you ever looked into Victron Energy Solar charge Controllers, they seem to be the "go-to" controller in both boats and RVs. Just having the ability to see real time info on your blue-tooth connected phone makes them worth it for me.
One of my refit Alberg 30 Voyager Edition boats has the Victron with bluetooth and has been working OK. But more often I use the Epever because I want to see the display at a glance without turning on the phone, the Epever costs less with the display, and it can be programmed easier without the need for the "dongle". You can read the reviews of both on Amazon and some solar forums.
@@atomvoyager Thanks for the reply and I’m glad the Epever charge controller is working for you and are you able to see the display on the charge controller at a glance where it's mounted? I have the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/30Solar Charge Controller and it doesn’t require a “dongle” (I think all the SmartSolar units don’t) and it would be great if it also had a display. It's always great to see your videos and follow along on how you approach every project with your sailing experience and a produce a better than factory professional result when you’re finished.
@@TerrydeAlaska I do have to poke my head around the backrest to see it but that's not much trouble and other space is limited. I see at the link below that a display can be added to the Victron SmartSolar so I may try this combo next time: www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTPQP1X/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1
@@atomvoyager One more thing, I forgot to tell you I have two charge controllers connected to my array of 600 watts for redundancy (300 watts for each controller) and they along with my battery sense will all connect into one network and I can see Network total power coming in as well as battery voltage and temperature. This would also work with a Victron Energy battery monitor as well, mine is an old one by bogart engineering.
what a stunning boat so clean looking ,the work you do on boats is amazing this will take you places in half the normal sail time or faster with a good wind ,one thing was curious about acrylic windows i knows its strong but polycarbonate is way more stronger and bomb proof for not a lot more money and wont ever crack around drill holes
Thanks. I used to use polycarbonate many years ago but it just doesn't stand up well over time on boats so I mostly use cast acrylic now. Although polycarbonate has the advantage of less likely to crack during drilling or expanding and contracting around fasteners it has several disadvantages. The cost is crazy high now, it scratches more easily and it doesn't last near as long as acrylic in the UV. As long as you drill it carefully, use ample thickness and make fastener holes generously sized to allow for expansion, then in most cases acrylic is a good choice. But it needs to be cast acrylic, not extruded. And since 3/8" acrylic is plenty strong for these size windows there's no need to try to make them even stronger. If you choose a thinner more affordable polycarbonate with the idea that since it's stronger it can be thinner then you will potentially get leaks because it's too flexible, causing the sealant to lose it's grip.
@@atomvoyager that was great advice from your past working with polycarbon think the cost implications is all the police and riot shields they need around the world to quell the disconcert has put the demand for poly cost through the roof ,so the next windows i buy i,ll go for acrylic cast
Thanks. It's the standard F24 swim ladder installed at the Corsair factory. When folded up and attached with the lifeline pelican hooks it serves as a safety railing.
Awesome work and great video. Do you prefer the trimaran to a monohull? Asking because I have an Island Packet 27 but have been wanting to sail faster (coastal day sailing, southern california) and the Corsairs look great but expensive. Thanks!
For coastal daysailing in SoCal the Corsairs are great for speed and less heeling although they require careful handling and a wide marina berth since it's not practical to fold them up in the slip because the sides of the amas would foul. There are other tris that the amas retract horizontally by swinging aft that would be better in that situation such as the expensive Dragonfly or the Telstar. There are many big and small trade-offs in going from mono to trimaran that you need to consider.
looking good, up grade are berry. nice electric job just neat , you said the you had a 27 and the one I am looking to buy if I can get a good deal any idea where to look on the east coat, thank you. Luis from Puerto Rico
Besides checking the various online boat listing sites such as sailboatlistings.com and the F-boats dealer in Florida, you could post your question on the F-boats forum linked below. There was a post of an F27 for sale there recently: fct.groups.io/g/main
The F24 is noticeably smaller inside and can't carry as much crew and gear and living aboard for more than a few days is less comfortable. It's somewhat less safe and sturdy offshore. But I didn't care for the daggerboard and aft cabin layout of the F27 and the more work involved with a bigger boat. You really should try to go aboard both to see what suits your needs.
How did you get rid of the old contact cement and what did you use to fair the interior? I have a project boat I'm working on that had the same interior treatment and have already pulled out all of the carpet, bu now have contact cement all over the interior. I also have removed the cracked plastic port lights in the cabin side and will replace them with acrylic/plexiglass as you've done numerous times and install either Vetus or metal opening port lights as I see you did over the galley in some of the later shots in the video. I also like your placement of the electrical panel in the bulkhead at the aft end of the starboard bunk, should stay away from any moisture coming in the companionway.
We didn't find a good method of removing the contact cement. We did a combination of chisel, stiff putty knife, wire wheel on a drill and various sanding methods. The fiberglass is thin inside and rough surface so it's not possible to get all the glue off. But we got some of it off and applied a thin layer of West System resin thickened with 407 fairing compound additive then sanded and applied an epoxy primer over what remained and left the surface slightly rough and used a stain or semi-gloss paint that helps not to highlight the roughness and it came out pretty good. Experiment with your cleaning and painting method in a small area and see how it looks. The epoxy primer is tough so should resist coming off even though it has some glue under it.
@@atomvoyager Thanks for the feedback. I thought I'd be in for a lot of sanding, but maybe only need to get down to glass on the high spots. The interior surface was left with the rough texture from the roving and I don't want to sand into the fibers and weaken the laminate. There are some areas that I want to stiffen with stringers, so I'll probably need to get down to the laminate in those areas at least, but will be building them up with the additional material.
@@sammiller709 Yes, I only needed to get the glue off the high spots of the fiberglass cloth weave in order for the fairing compound or primer to adhere well enough. If you want to discuss other things on the F24 or compare notes you can contact me by email through atomvoyages.com. I'll be interested to hear what else you're doing.
Hi, we are in the process of getting a F24 mk1 too. Inspiring videos. Wondered why you changed form a 2 pit burner (video 1) to a single burner? Kind regards, Sipke
I sold the two burner and bought the single on ebay to simplify, save weight and space and because I lived aboard my other boat full-time for many years and got by fine with one burner. Even meals normally done on two burners are easy on a single by being creative on swapping around the pots. For example, cook the sauce, then boil the pasta, set it aside and briefly reheat the sauce. And anyway, this is not a long-term liveaboard situation.
Great example of this model boat. One question, if I may. Why are you running the 2 blue liner on the amas to the shrouds? I haven't seen it before and was curious.
This boat came to me with the tensioning tackle of blue lines set up to tension the shrouds and the system works well. Maybe other boats do it different.
@@atomvoyager I can confirm my 24 MK I has the exact same system - I think quite a few of the Corsair designs to. Thanks for these videos, we're hoping to make ours look half as good as this!
For interior I like to use EZ Cabin Coat that I tint to off-white or any good semi-gloss mold-resistant water-based interior paint. I don't use single part paints for exterior any more because they don't stand up long enough to the UV and abrasions to make them worth the labor involved. The Triton will sail at 6k all day long in the right conditions, although 5k is a more realistic speed made good in 24 hours. The F24 MKI will do a max of 15k in flat water, with 12k being a safer speed with less threat of burying the lee flat and turning over. In bigger seas offshore 12k is max and 10k is effortless so off the wind the speed of the F24 is roughly double that of the Triton or similar monohull.
Where is a good place to find our more about these cool boats? I am really intrigued now as it seems like a great boat for where I live on the Florida gulf coast.
@atomvoyager I was trying to work out if our mast is rotating .How do you find the mainsail roller boom reefing. Im building a trimaran at the moment and I'm considering using it .do you have any problems with the bolt rope jamming
I don't have a problem with the bolt rope jamming except that there is more friction than I like on my newest mainsail boltrope as it slides in the mast slot. The sailmaker either used too thick a boltrope or too thick sailcloth that wraps around it. The old main works fine though. As a cruiser I don't want the complication of of a rotating mast. I kept the roller reefing boom setup mainly since that's the way the boat came. There are pros and cons to it compared to slab reefing (AKA jiffy reefing). If setting up a new system I'd be tempted to go with slab and a low friction Tides Marine track, although it adds weight and cost.
@@atomvoyager thanks for your reply do you need to round up to reef.. The tides track look great but I'm in Tasmania, Au so the freight is prohibitive not to mention the import duty
How can I contact you directly? Currently sailing a freedom 28. Lots of questions, just found your sight, binge watched ALL. Lots of good information.Thanks, Skip
@@atomvoyager Thanks for responding...that's right in my price range which makes me happy. 👍 The corsair 880 is just too high for me right now and these look great.
Some years ago I was under the impression that you had bought an Alberg 35 or 37. It was going to be your next long range cruiser. But I know, life happens. May all your troubles melt like lemon drops.
Over the years I've bought three Alberg 30s to resell and was once the reluctant owner of a 60' wooden cargo schooner that needed rescue before it sank in Trinidad but have never been afflicted with the "need a bigger boat syndrome".
This is a nice setup, is it possible to find these as derelicts ? Id love to restore one, Idk if I could actually afford one that is sea worthy. Currently working and sailing a 26 ft mono.
Sometimes a damaged Corsair comes on the market but they often require special expensive parts and skilled repairs to get them back on the water. If any come on the market they are often mentioned at this forum: fct.groups.io/g/main/
It sails effortlessly at 10 knots and 12 knots is easy to get. Top speed would be about 15 but there is risk of burying the ama at that speed. 12-13 knots is fairly safe and easy though.
![A Unique, Fast, & Relatively AFFORDABLE 44' Trimaran [Full Tour] Learning the Lines](/img/n.gif)
Epever MT50 programming for lithium batteries:
Here's a link to my MT50 programming video. I don't know if Epever has fixed the software bug that I encountered when trying to program it but this is the method that worked for me.
ua-cam.com/video/43KhqCEdP3A/v-deo.html
Thanks for sharing! When the tour started on the trailer I thought “wow she looks fast,” I loved the footage at the end confirming that thought.
Your modifications are always awesome and the craftsmanship seems top notch! Thanks for sharing.
Always a treat to see what you do below on any of your projects, particularly both the electrical and below the forward bunk. Very clean and ultra functional. Big thumbs up!
Beautiful video. First class work as always. Your attention to detail is inspiring. Thank you!
Worth every second of watching. Thank you for sharing.
Lovely! A beautiful boat with intelligent upgrades! Congrats!
Love the roller furling boom. Thx you for posting this informative video on improving the f-24 for cruising.
From Arlo Guthrie's first album - nice tune. Liked the head and the device to prevent water from flooding the cockpit and cabin.
Nice, I picked up an F24 Mk I last summer. Spent 4 months sailing it every day we could and now have it on the hard while I work through some maintenance and updates while looking forward to getting it back on the water. Your work was my inspiration.
Superb. You work and boats are always very tidy.
Great upgrades and workmanship. Thanks!
very neat clean boat, looks a gem
Great job on all of the mods James! Not sure I would feel comfortable on the Corsair in any kind of a sea state but it looks a blast to sail in moderate conditions. Thanks, Ben S/V DAWN
Neat wiring. Cool boat. I keep meaning to read your second book. Maybe this winter. Cheers.
Very nice. I see you put a lot of thought into it to make it a cruiser.
This is my ideal cruiser! Great job.
Lovely work as always, sir.
Beautiful machine ...thanks for share .
Very nice work. I doubt I will ever buy another boat, having a half dozen from a Laser to a Corbin 39, but a 24-27 foot trimaran might make the cut one day LOL.
That is a cool little boat.
Very handy cruiser, I want one!
wow very nice build!
another awesome video. thank you
7:18 to 7:45 I had to pause and fan myself. Gawd, I wish everybody treated their electrical systems with this kind of care.
Great video.
I ended up with a 74 southern cross 28 hull 24 I really like the corsair never sailed one tho
Well done sir.
Neat cruiser
I love it…. I never knew you were trimaran friendly…. But as always your original type of up grades make this a sharp capable small boat … well done.
Thanks for showing us your Corsair. Man I would love that boat. Have you ever looked into Victron Energy Solar charge Controllers, they seem to be the "go-to" controller in both boats and RVs. Just having the ability to see real time info on your blue-tooth connected phone makes them worth it for me.
One of my refit Alberg 30 Voyager Edition boats has the Victron with bluetooth and has been working OK. But more often I use the Epever because I want to see the display at a glance without turning on the phone, the Epever costs less with the display, and it can be programmed easier without the need for the "dongle". You can read the reviews of both on Amazon and some solar forums.
@@atomvoyager Thanks for the reply and I’m glad the Epever charge controller is working for you and are you able to see the display on the charge controller at a glance where it's mounted? I have the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/30Solar Charge Controller and it doesn’t require a “dongle” (I think all the SmartSolar units don’t) and it would be great if it also had a display. It's always great to see your videos and follow along on how you approach every project with your sailing experience and a produce a better than factory professional result when you’re finished.
@@TerrydeAlaska I do have to poke my head around the backrest to see it but that's not much trouble and other space is limited. I see at the link below that a display can be added to the Victron SmartSolar so I may try this combo next time: www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTPQP1X/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1
@@atomvoyager One more thing, I forgot to tell you I have two charge controllers connected to my array of 600 watts for redundancy (300 watts for each controller) and they along with my battery sense will all connect into one network and I can see Network total power coming in as well as battery voltage and temperature. This would also work with a Victron Energy battery monitor as well, mine is an old one by bogart engineering.
what a stunning boat so clean looking ,the work you do on boats is amazing this will take you places in half the normal sail time or faster with a good wind ,one thing was curious about acrylic windows i knows its strong but polycarbonate is way more stronger and bomb proof for not a lot more money and wont ever crack around drill holes
Thanks. I used to use polycarbonate many years ago but it just doesn't stand up well over time on boats so I mostly use cast acrylic now. Although polycarbonate has the advantage of less likely to crack during drilling or expanding and contracting around fasteners it has several disadvantages. The cost is crazy high now, it scratches more easily and it doesn't last near as long as acrylic in the UV. As long as you drill it carefully, use ample thickness and make fastener holes generously sized to allow for expansion, then in most cases acrylic is a good choice. But it needs to be cast acrylic, not extruded. And since 3/8" acrylic is plenty strong for these size windows there's no need to try to make them even stronger. If you choose a thinner more affordable polycarbonate with the idea that since it's stronger it can be thinner then you will potentially get leaks because it's too flexible, causing the sealant to lose it's grip.
@@atomvoyager that was great advice from your past working with polycarbon think the cost implications is all the police and riot shields they need around the world to quell the disconcert has put the demand for poly cost through the roof ,so the next windows i buy i,ll go for acrylic cast
@@atomvoyager that’s very useful info, appreciate the time it took to write that out
Great Job. One of the nicest F24s I've seen. What swim ladder are you using?
Thanks. It's the standard F24 swim ladder installed at the Corsair factory. When folded up and attached with the lifeline pelican hooks it serves as a safety railing.
Bellissimo
Awesome work and great video. Do you prefer the trimaran to a monohull? Asking because I have an Island Packet 27 but have been wanting to sail faster (coastal day sailing, southern california) and the Corsairs look great but expensive. Thanks!
For coastal daysailing in SoCal the Corsairs are great for speed and less heeling although they require careful handling and a wide marina berth since it's not practical to fold them up in the slip because the sides of the amas would foul. There are other tris that the amas retract horizontally by swinging aft that would be better in that situation such as the expensive Dragonfly or the Telstar. There are many big and small trade-offs in going from mono to trimaran that you need to consider.
Nice updates. Is that an Albin Ballad behind under the roof? Love to see what's happening with that one as well.
Yes, that's an Albin Ballad 30 we're currently working on. My next videos will cover several jobs we've done on that boat.
looking good, up grade are berry. nice electric job just neat , you said the you had a 27 and the one I am looking to buy if I can get a good deal any idea where to look on the east coat, thank you. Luis from Puerto Rico
Besides checking the various online boat listing sites such as sailboatlistings.com and the F-boats dealer in Florida, you could post your question on the F-boats forum linked below. There was a post of an F27 for sale there recently:
fct.groups.io/g/main
Informative video, may rethink a Mk I option. How do you find the size of the 24 vs your old 27?
The F24 is noticeably smaller inside and can't carry as much crew and gear and living aboard for more than a few days is less comfortable. It's somewhat less safe and sturdy offshore. But I didn't care for the daggerboard and aft cabin layout of the F27 and the more work involved with a bigger boat. You really should try to go aboard both to see what suits your needs.
How did you get rid of the old contact cement and what did you use to fair the interior? I have a project boat I'm working on that had the same interior treatment and have already pulled out all of the carpet, bu now have contact cement all over the interior. I also have removed the cracked plastic port lights in the cabin side and will replace them with acrylic/plexiglass as you've done numerous times and install either Vetus or metal opening port lights as I see you did over the galley in some of the later shots in the video. I also like your placement of the electrical panel in the bulkhead at the aft end of the starboard bunk, should stay away from any moisture coming in the companionway.
We didn't find a good method of removing the contact cement. We did a combination of chisel, stiff putty knife, wire wheel on a drill and various sanding methods. The fiberglass is thin inside and rough surface so it's not possible to get all the glue off. But we got some of it off and applied a thin layer of West System resin thickened with 407 fairing compound additive then sanded and applied an epoxy primer over what remained and left the surface slightly rough and used a stain or semi-gloss paint that helps not to highlight the roughness and it came out pretty good. Experiment with your cleaning and painting method in a small area and see how it looks. The epoxy primer is tough so should resist coming off even though it has some glue under it.
@@atomvoyager Thanks for the feedback. I thought I'd be in for a lot of sanding, but maybe only need to get down to glass on the high spots. The interior surface was left with the rough texture from the roving and I don't want to sand into the fibers and weaken the laminate. There are some areas that I want to stiffen with stringers, so I'll probably need to get down to the laminate in those areas at least, but will be building them up with the additional material.
@@sammiller709 Yes, I only needed to get the glue off the high spots of the fiberglass cloth weave in order for the fairing compound or primer to adhere well enough. If you want to discuss other things on the F24 or compare notes you can contact me by email through atomvoyages.com. I'll be interested to hear what else you're doing.
Hi nice work as usual 😉what swinging arm are you using for the plotter, looks nicer than the RAM?
I had that in stock from years ago and apparently they are no longer produced. I liked it because it was less bulky than the RAM mount.
@@atomvoyager thanks James, same thing here I find the RAM bulky too.
Hi, we are in the process of getting a F24 mk1 too. Inspiring videos. Wondered why you changed form a 2 pit burner (video 1) to a single burner? Kind regards, Sipke
I sold the two burner and bought the single on ebay to simplify, save weight and space and because I lived aboard my other boat full-time for many years and got by fine with one burner. Even meals normally done on two burners are easy on a single by being creative on swapping around the pots. For example, cook the sauce, then boil the pasta, set it aside and briefly reheat the sauce. And anyway, this is not a long-term liveaboard situation.
Thanks for you answer!
Great example of this model boat. One question, if I may. Why are you running the 2 blue liner on the amas to the shrouds? I haven't seen it before and was curious.
This boat came to me with the tensioning tackle of blue lines set up to tension the shrouds and the system works well. Maybe other boats do it different.
@@atomvoyager I can confirm my 24 MK I has the exact same system - I think quite a few of the Corsair designs to. Thanks for these videos, we're hoping to make ours look half as good as this!
I like that traveler placement, what kind of boat is this? It almost reminds me of w corsair
F24 MKI Corsair Trimaran
Great video.
What is your preferred single part paint?
What is your cruising speed on Corsair vs triton?
For interior I like to use EZ Cabin Coat that I tint to off-white or any good semi-gloss mold-resistant water-based interior paint. I don't use single part paints for exterior any more because they don't stand up long enough to the UV and abrasions to make them worth the labor involved.
The Triton will sail at 6k all day long in the right conditions, although 5k is a more realistic speed made good in 24 hours. The F24 MKI will do a max of 15k in flat water, with 12k being a safer speed with less threat of burying the lee flat and turning over. In bigger seas offshore 12k is max and 10k is effortless so off the wind the speed of the F24 is roughly double that of the Triton or similar monohull.
Where is a good place to find our more about these cool boats? I am really intrigued now as it seems like a great boat for where I live on the Florida gulf coast.
Here's a link to a F-boats forum. There are also sites that pop up with an online search for general info.
fct.groups.io/g/main/topics
@@atomvoyager Thanks!
@atomvoyager I was trying to work out if our mast is rotating .How do you find the mainsail roller boom reefing. Im building a trimaran at the moment and I'm considering using it .do you have any problems with the bolt rope jamming
I don't have a problem with the bolt rope jamming except that there is more friction than I like on my newest mainsail boltrope as it slides in the mast slot. The sailmaker either used too thick a boltrope or too thick sailcloth that wraps around it. The old main works fine though. As a cruiser I don't want the complication of of a rotating mast. I kept the roller reefing boom setup mainly since that's the way the boat came. There are pros and cons to it compared to slab reefing (AKA jiffy reefing). If setting up a new system I'd be tempted to go with slab and a low friction Tides Marine track, although it adds weight and cost.
@@atomvoyager thanks for your reply do you need to round up to reef..
The tides track look great but I'm in Tasmania, Au so the freight is prohibitive not to mention the import duty
@@adrianbaker9804 Generally I don't need to round up but sometimes it's easier that way.
How can I contact you directly? Currently sailing a freedom 28. Lots of questions, just found your sight, binge watched ALL. Lots of good information.Thanks, Skip
You can email me through the contact button at atomvoyages.com
Awesome video with great upgrades...What would be the estimated value?
I recently sold this boat for $33,500. I was reluctant to sell it but I didn't have time to use it.
@@atomvoyager Thanks for responding...that's right in my price range which makes me happy. 👍 The corsair 880 is just too high for me right now and these look great.
Some years ago I was under the impression that you had bought an Alberg 35 or 37. It was going to be your next long range cruiser. But I know, life happens.
May all your troubles melt like lemon drops.
Over the years I've bought three Alberg 30s to resell and was once the reluctant owner of a 60' wooden cargo schooner that needed rescue before it sank in Trinidad but have never been afflicted with the "need a bigger boat syndrome".
@@atomvoyager It was a while ago and it could have been someone else. I followed your postings years ago while doing a major refit of my own.
Someone help me get one of these for Tampa Bay area florida. 😊
Ma può circolare per strada con il
Carrello ?
This is a nice setup, is it possible to find these as derelicts ? Id love to restore one, Idk if I could actually afford one that is sea worthy. Currently working and sailing a 26 ft mono.
Sometimes a damaged Corsair comes on the market but they often require special expensive parts and skilled repairs to get them back on the water. If any come on the market they are often mentioned at this forum: fct.groups.io/g/main/
What’s the average speed?Nice video.
It sails effortlessly at 10 knots and 12 knots is easy to get. Top speed would be about 15 but there is risk of burying the ama at that speed. 12-13 knots is fairly safe and easy though.
@@atomvoyager That’s enough speed to outrun a storm. Really admire your work, fair winds.
how much would you sell this for? Or do you think it's worth with your mods?
I ended up selling this boat a few months ago for $33,000 since I had other commitments and wasn't using it.