THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SHARING THIS!!!!! I just recently decided to try and fix an old Jonsered 525 that my Dad had bought new in the 80’s and that got passed down to me. After replacing the piston, ring, crank seals, a new carb kit and many attempts at tuning it, I just couldn’t make it run right. I was just about ready to give up since replacement carbs for these are now impossible to find. After watching this video I went straight in the garage and took the carb out again. Sure enough, the needle wasn’t sealing properly but now it is and the chainsaw runs great and starts back up with only a short pull on the recoil! Once again, THANKS FOR SHARING!!
Just used this tip to fix a John Deere 544 with Kawasaki Mikuni double barrel carburetor that was continuously flooding. Haven’t able to run it for years and they wanted 400 dollar for a new carburetor for it. THANK YOU!!!!!
I just used my 2036 Jonsered 2036 brush saw for the first time in 3+ years. I always used premium, non-oxygenated gas in it and measured the 2stk oil carefully. I don't use it as much as I did when I got it 20 years ago. So I didn't have any mixed gas around. I bought a can of pre-mix to try. The saw started right up - a few primer shots and off it went. But didn't want to run at idle - even after warmed up. I would run at half choke. Today, before I loaded my stuff to go to work I sprayed that little carb with carb/choke cleaner - I just hosed it down. After it dried I started it again and sprayed the running carb again. That blast killed that little engine. But it did run at idle. So I went to work and it ran flawlessly. I did bog a little at throttle up. But it always did that. Best to keep such a small engine revved up a little anyway. Next spring I may adjust the carb a little. My point is to try the simple things first. WHAT THE FIX did a great job of fixing his saw. I'm sure he's an excellent small engine guy. But don't start tearing things apart until you try the easy things first. For example - the on/off switch. My saw started so good yesterday. Today I couldn't get it running - until I turned the switch to 'on'. LOL Another thing to check when hard starting or poor idle. Make sure you air cleaner is not full of sawdust or dirt. I'm no small engine guru - but I've run many hundreds of gallons of gas thru 90cc chain saws. Not tree trimming or logging - cut, trim, wait for removal. We cut on powerline construction projects. Cut, limb, move on. in those bigger saws we'd go thru 2.5 gallons of gas per day per man.
I'd just about given up trying to get my saw running properly. This is the last thing I'm going to try before it goes in the bin! Edit: IT WORKED!! The needle looked as clean as new but I ran a drill bit in the hole by hand anyway, then blew it all out with the air line - fired up straight away and after adjusting the idle when it had warmed up it now starts and runs really well. Thank you!
Thanks for the great lesson on needle and seat. My question now is I just replace the primer bulb, connected the hoses as they were and it continues to flood.?? Yes i did swap the hoses, and no success??
I performed the task that you showed. Thank you. I'm not sure about one task. The drilling task? There's the hole (seat, i guess), and there's a smaller hole at the bottom of the hole. Which hole is supposed to be the target of the drill bit? I assumed you meant the larger hole?
Gonna give this a try, got a stubborn poulan 42cc, started bogging real bad cutting out. After it cuts out you can tell it's flooding with fuel coming out the muffler from trying to restart.
How did it go did it fix its problems or did it still piss you off Like how i pulled my stihl yard tools so many repeated times the cord spring inside broke so now i need 2 different replacement parts for my stihls and then try his trick out on all these
What a smart ass as well, what if I have gray and gray wires? Anybody wondering why this isn’t getting a lot of views and subscribers. I’m not even going to subscribe to see the comments. 😢
Question im working on a 345 Husqvarna and i rebuilt it to a 353 and i can't get the carburetor adjusted and the screws seem to not be doing nothing with high and low but it idle good
When I have a saw that is going into compressor stahl I lean out the L jet until it stays idling. My time frame for my saws is 15 minutes. Compressor stahl means it is getting to much gas and overwhelming the saw. I check my carbs to 5# pressure with my Mighty Vac before I put them on a saw. If they do not hold 5# pressure they won’t work properly. I went through four aftermarket HD carbs for my MS 440 before I got one that worked properly. I do squirt a little gas in the carb before I test it with the Mighty Vac. I want the needle wet before testing.
The back end of a larger bamboo skewer works great and fits the hole pefectly, pointy isnt bad for the steel wool trick but doesnt grab as nice unless you split the end a bit
Hey buddy, I know it’s late in comment section, but thought I would ask. Mine bogs down after it gets hot. New spark plug, new coil , carb rebuild… nothing changed. Could this be the problem? Thanks
Good idea, I guess. Most recommend polishing the seat with q-tip in drill with toothpaste or other mild polishing compound. I will try your method to see how it works.
@@WHATTHEFIX I haven’t needed to polish a seat yet. I’ve seen one other method besides what I already mentioned, and that’s running the drill bit in reverse, so you polish the seat rathe than removing any material. I’d try those methods first and save yours as a last recourse. Using your method, anyone should be aware the the lever height may need to be adjusted. Also, if using the Q-tip method, someone suggested cutting off the cotton tip, trimming the remaining end to match the angle of the needle tip and polishing with that. Makes a lot of sense to try and match the needle angle as much as possible.
yeah I can see myself having a slip and drilling clean through the carburetor. More inclined to try the idea you saw else where, q tip and toothpaste. Never tried this, but you know baking soda & vinegar might be good in case of a corroded carburetor, hey works on stuck metal plumbing nuts! Just an idea, but I'm a thinking maybe a golf tee, although the angle is kind of acute (sharp) compared to the needle valve seat, but what you might do is cut just a little of the pointy tip off. Use like you say some kind of polishing compound, or valve grinding compound would probably work good. After all the idea here is to polish out irregularities in the seat, little microscopic pits from ethanol corrosion and not so much as to re drill the seat.
@@Rein_Ciarfella yes you'd really have to go easy with valve grinding compound because you figure, it is made to be used on hardened valve seats whereas the carburetor body is just cast aluminum
I did removed the spark plug..and after 1 day I found the crankshaft case full with petrol... can be the carburettor? When I try to start the chainsaw it's flooded immediately...
@@Mike-su8si EDIT: thanks for your input, I should have worded this as the first suspect being the diaphragm, then the second thing to look at while you are in there would be the needle & seat. Recently fixed a leaf blower when cleaning inside carburetor hadn't helped much by then replacing just the diaphragm never bothering the valve & seat part for the second repair attempt. Prior the leaf blower would not even fire, and it would spit fuel out the muffler. Runs like a champ now. Will leave my original somewhat incorrect comment below for others to learn from. yeah flooding into crankcase, and spitting raw fuel out muffler the most likely suspect is needle valve as you say sticking open, not properly sealing. Someone else on YT also mentioned the little metering diaphragm can get stiff and out of shape, they also said beware of the height of the little center pin on metering diaphragm may vary between applications, despite every thing else appearing identical and seemingly fit.
This is only video on zama needle seat. I wanted to remove and replace brass seat, but find no info. Before I seen this, I started reaming seat by hand with diamond bit. My issue was test was holding 7 to 4 lbs, but failing under 4 lbs.
I don't have those testers or money for one but got plenty of those carburetors and will be drilling all of them because i keep all my old parts incase i need them or a piece off of one or if someone else might need one for free
Legend has it they're still searching for the person that asked if it was supposed to be red to black or black to black. Rumor has it he was blown up attempting to disable a bomb. Some say it ran out of time from not being able to chosea color others say it blew up from the wrong combination.. others say that the legend isnt true and it just a myth.. right now I don't know and the anticipation of knowing the combination has caused me to lose sleep, my job and now she's taking the kids. everyone thinks I'm obsessed with combination including the judge who says I must complete atleast 25 hours in a electrical trade school before I can have joint custody of our 3 legged dachshund named sir Johnson. She can have my house she can take the kids the money and the vehicles... but I need my Johnson.. for the love of God what's the correct combination!!! For my Johnson.. Johnson.
My Stihl 034 AV when started and I try to tune up got trouble with the n "H" it starts to get power when the screw is all the way in which is NO GOOD ---it suppose to be 1 turn out--- also a lot of black smoke come out (it has a Tillson carburettor ) Can anyone help if it can be fixed ??
Hi, great video, it explains everything, I have a Stihl chainsaw, I cant find a tool to take the screw out of the lever so I can remove the needle valve, I've tried every allen wrench I have with no luck. Is there a special tool for this?
Tried everything even changed carby and only way to start is pour fuel down carbie so l know everything is going for 5 seconds before it dies again because no more fuel.Even checked fuel lines and changed filter.
Think of it this way… if you had a length of pipe and a rubber ball that would sit on the end when pipe was vertical, it would seal the pipe. Now take a hatchet and gouge the end in a few spots…. Put the ball back on. Won’t seal. (The needles are Viton tipped now to combat the use of ethanol in the fuel). Thanks for your thoughts bud. Keep on keeping….
Dont get a drill and drill out the carby seat, its aluminium and will carve it up. it will be a fluke if it works as an ex machinist i watch many tradie and labourer screw up a job free handing metal. I had a pitted Harley Davidson Brake calliper and i used a phillips screw driver with scotchbrite pad wrapped around it with wet and dry sand paper glued to it as it was tapered and like a honing tool oscillated the drill as i moved it up and down and honed the surface to remove the pitting.
love it, good idea as what to do when you don't have a cylinder hone handy! back in the day of rebuilding wheel cylinders at home we just would take some fine Emory cloth by hand.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SHARING THIS!!!!! I just recently decided to try and fix an old Jonsered 525 that my Dad had bought new in the 80’s and that got passed down to me. After replacing the piston, ring, crank seals, a new carb kit and many attempts at tuning it, I just couldn’t make it run right. I was just about ready to give up since replacement carbs for these are now impossible to find. After watching this video I went straight in the garage and took the carb out again. Sure enough, the needle wasn’t sealing properly but now it is and the chainsaw runs great and starts back up with only a short pull on the recoil! Once again, THANKS FOR SHARING!!
Great information
Poor lady wanted everyone to know that she existed.
This dude showed a lot of patience.
Just used this tip to fix a John Deere 544 with Kawasaki Mikuni double barrel carburetor that was continuously flooding. Haven’t able to run it for years and they wanted 400 dollar for a new carburetor for it. THANK YOU!!!!!
I just used my 2036 Jonsered 2036 brush saw for the first time in 3+ years. I always used premium, non-oxygenated gas in it and measured the 2stk oil carefully. I don't use it as much as I did when I got it 20 years ago. So I didn't have any mixed gas around. I bought a can of pre-mix to try.
The saw started right up - a few primer shots and off it went. But didn't want to run at idle - even after warmed up. I would run at half choke. Today, before I loaded my stuff to go to work I sprayed that little carb with carb/choke cleaner - I just hosed it down. After it dried I started it again and sprayed the running carb again. That blast killed that little engine. But it did run at idle.
So I went to work and it ran flawlessly. I did bog a little at throttle up. But it always did that. Best to keep such a small engine revved up a little anyway. Next spring I may adjust the carb a little.
My point is to try the simple things first. WHAT THE FIX did a great job of fixing his saw. I'm sure he's an excellent small engine guy. But don't start tearing things apart until you try the easy things first.
For example - the on/off switch. My saw started so good yesterday. Today I couldn't get it running - until I turned the switch to 'on'. LOL
Another thing to check when hard starting or poor idle. Make sure you air cleaner is not full of sawdust or dirt. I'm no small engine guru - but I've run many hundreds of gallons of gas thru 90cc chain saws. Not tree trimming or logging - cut, trim, wait for removal. We cut on powerline construction projects. Cut, limb, move on. in those bigger saws we'd go thru 2.5 gallons of gas per day per man.
I'd just about given up trying to get my saw running properly. This is the last thing I'm going to try before it goes in the bin!
Edit: IT WORKED!! The needle looked as clean as new but I ran a drill bit in the hole by hand anyway, then blew it all out with the air line - fired up straight away and after adjusting the idle when it had warmed up it now starts and runs really well. Thank you!
Fantastic! Seriously… I’m stoked to hear! Happy to help! Good on you for making it work. Keep on truckin my friend!
The correct way to set a data from on a two fifty steel walker
Simple straight to the point... Effective. To you sir, from head to hand my hat.
Thank you
Thanks for the great lesson on needle and seat. My question now is I just replace the primer bulb, connected the hoses as they were and it continues to flood.?? Yes i did swap the hoses, and no success??
The vacuum test is a good tip though! You could prolly use a spare primer bulb assembly.....
How about running the drill bit backward? Would have a lapping affect instead of chipping out metal.
good idea.
Worth trying ! Thx for konsis and sharp on the spot demonstration and not all kind of fuzz around ! :-)
I performed the task that you showed. Thank you. I'm not sure about one task. The drilling task? There's the hole (seat, i guess), and there's a smaller hole at the bottom of the hole. Which hole is supposed to be the target of the drill bit? I assumed you meant the larger hole?
The one that the needle goes in the the rocker arm moves it up and down by spring and diaphragm.
Gonna give this a try, got a stubborn poulan 42cc, started bogging real bad cutting out. After it cuts out you can tell it's flooding with fuel coming out the muffler from trying to restart.
How did it go did it fix its problems or did it still piss you off
Like how i pulled my stihl yard tools so many repeated times the cord spring inside broke so now i need 2 different replacement parts for my stihls and then try his trick out on all these
Actually.... you guys yelling at each other about laundry is calming....
LOL
What a smart ass as well, what if I have gray and gray wires? Anybody wondering why this isn’t getting a lot of views and subscribers. I’m not even going to subscribe to see the comments. 😢
Question im working on a 345 Husqvarna and i rebuilt it to a 353 and i can't get the carburetor adjusted and the screws seem to not be doing nothing with high and low but it idle good
When I have a saw that is going into compressor stahl I lean out the L jet until it stays idling. My time frame for my saws is 15 minutes. Compressor stahl means it is getting to much gas and overwhelming the saw. I check my carbs to 5# pressure with my Mighty Vac before I put them on a saw. If they do not hold 5# pressure they won’t work properly. I went through four aftermarket HD carbs for my MS 440 before I got one that worked properly. I do squirt a little gas in the carb before I test it with the Mighty Vac. I want the needle wet before testing.
Run your bit in reverse by hand or use a small bit and steel wool shoved down the hole, the bit will catch and spin the steel wool, again, by hand
The back end of a larger bamboo skewer works great and fits the hole pefectly, pointy isnt bad for the steel wool trick but doesnt grab as nice unless you split the end a bit
Hey buddy, I know it’s late in comment section, but thought I would ask.
Mine bogs down after it gets hot.
New spark plug, new coil , carb rebuild… nothing changed. Could this be the problem? Thanks
What if it's doing this after you just replaced the carburetor
Had a feeling this was my problem. Thanks
Good idea, I guess. Most recommend polishing the seat with q-tip in drill with toothpaste or other mild polishing compound. I will try your method to see how it works.
did it?
@@WHATTHEFIX
I haven’t needed to polish a seat yet. I’ve seen one other method besides what I already mentioned, and that’s running the drill bit in reverse, so you polish the seat rathe than removing any material. I’d try those methods first and save yours as a last recourse. Using your method, anyone should be aware the the lever height may need to be adjusted. Also, if using the Q-tip method, someone suggested cutting off the cotton tip, trimming the remaining end to match the angle of the needle tip and polishing with that. Makes a lot of sense to try and match the needle angle as much as possible.
yeah I can see myself having a slip and drilling clean through the carburetor. More inclined to try the idea you saw else where, q tip and toothpaste. Never tried this, but you know baking soda & vinegar might be good in case of a corroded carburetor, hey works on stuck metal plumbing nuts! Just an idea, but I'm a thinking maybe a golf tee, although the angle is kind of acute (sharp) compared to the needle valve seat, but what you might do is cut just a little of the pointy tip off. Use like you say some kind of polishing compound, or valve grinding compound would probably work good. After all the idea here is to polish out irregularities in the seat, little microscopic pits from ethanol corrosion and not so much as to re drill the seat.
@@markbaker1843
I thought about using valve grinding compound but the one that is commonly used is way too aggressive.
@@Rein_Ciarfella yes you'd really have to go easy with valve grinding compound because you figure, it is made to be used on hardened valve seats whereas the carburetor body is just cast aluminum
Where did you get your vacuum gage.
when I press the primer bulb I see air bubbles in the fuel lines, is this showing me I have a leak in the fuel pipework?
I did removed the spark plug..and after 1 day I found the crankshaft case full with petrol... can be the carburettor? When I try to start the chainsaw it's flooded immediately...
Then yours needs cleaned up or replace the carburetor with a new one sounds like ur needle is staying open letting the gas go through
@@Mike-su8si EDIT: thanks for your input, I should have worded this as the first suspect being the diaphragm, then the second thing to look at while you are in there would be the needle & seat. Recently fixed a leaf blower when cleaning inside carburetor hadn't helped much by then replacing just the diaphragm never bothering the valve & seat part for the second repair attempt. Prior the leaf blower would not even fire, and it would spit fuel out the muffler. Runs like a champ now.
Will leave my original somewhat incorrect comment below for others to learn from.
yeah flooding into crankcase, and spitting raw fuel out muffler the most likely suspect is needle valve as you say sticking open, not properly sealing. Someone else on YT also mentioned the little metering diaphragm can get stiff and out of shape, they also said beware of the height of the little center pin on metering diaphragm may vary between applications, despite every thing else appearing identical and seemingly fit.
@@markbaker1843 it probably is the diagram inside the carburetor
This is only video on zama needle seat. I wanted to remove and replace brass seat, but find no info. Before I seen this, I started reaming seat by hand with diamond bit. My issue was test was holding 7 to 4 lbs, but failing under 4 lbs.
Yes. Fails just enough under little “load”
I don't have those testers or money for one but got plenty of those carburetors and will be drilling all of them because i keep all my old parts incase i need them or a piece off of one or if someone else might need one for free
Legend has it they're still searching for the person that asked if it was supposed to be red to black or black to black. Rumor has it he was blown up attempting to disable a bomb. Some say it ran out of time from not being able to chosea color others say it blew up from the wrong combination.. others say that the legend isnt true and it just a myth.. right now I don't know and the anticipation of knowing the combination has caused me to lose sleep, my job and now she's taking the kids. everyone thinks I'm obsessed with combination including the judge who says I must complete atleast 25 hours in a electrical trade school before I can have joint custody of our 3 legged dachshund named sir Johnson. She can have my house she can take the kids the money and the vehicles... but I need my Johnson.. for the love of God what's the correct combination!!! For my Johnson.. Johnson.
LMAO.. this has been pointed out several times now... Never knew wit was in video hahaha! Some people's kids!
Good tips
My weed ester keeps flooding and I just replaced the carb and fueld line switch brand new carb and fuel lines.
My Stihl 034 AV when started and I try to tune up got trouble with the n "H" it starts to get power when the screw is all the way in
which is NO GOOD ---it suppose to be 1 turn out--- also a lot of black smoke come out (it has a Tillson carburettor )
Can anyone help if it can be fixed ??
Okay I’m totally confused now ,thanks 😂
“Seriously, who asks that question “… the woman who aint making your dinner.
Hi, great video, it explains everything, I have a Stihl chainsaw, I cant find a tool to take the screw out of the lever so I can remove the needle valve, I've tried every allen wrench I have with no luck. Is there a special tool for this?
Should just be a standard slotted screw
Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
Tried everything even changed carby and only way to start is pour fuel down carbie so l know everything is going for 5 seconds before it dies again because no more fuel.Even checked fuel lines and changed filter.
Thanks for the information, enjoyed
👍
Well, anyway, drill in seat did the trick. Runs well now.
My luck it would grab and rip its way all the in.
Rebuild mine wont stop bogging down at all .
too much fuel
Is that needle a rubber tipped 1? I dont see how runbber tip can leak even if its dented from use?
Think of it this way… if you had a length of pipe and a rubber ball that would sit on the end when pipe was vertical, it would seal the pipe. Now take a hatchet and gouge the end in a few spots…. Put the ball back on. Won’t seal. (The needles are Viton tipped now to combat the use of ethanol in the fuel). Thanks for your thoughts bud. Keep on keeping….
I think it's a good idea
Well I'll try that on one of my poulans and on my stihls
🎉🎉🎉🎉
As a spark we were always told as a joke red to red black to black & blowen to fek
Dont get a drill and drill out the carby seat, its aluminium and will carve it up. it will be a fluke if it works as an ex machinist i watch many tradie and labourer screw up a job free handing metal. I had a pitted Harley Davidson Brake calliper and i used a phillips screw driver with scotchbrite pad wrapped around it with wet and dry sand paper glued to it as it was tapered and like a honing tool oscillated the drill as i moved it up and down and honed the surface to remove the pitting.
love it, good idea as what to do when you don't have a cylinder hone handy! back in the day of rebuilding wheel cylinders at home we just would take some fine Emory cloth by hand.
That's so wrong you use jet drill bits have done thousands and never had a problem
feel dizzy
Man ,
Handle your marriage 1st & then do a video !
What a load of horseshit.