straight up wizard. thx for this. I don't have a basement. I'm on blocks. And I'm not able to squeeze underneath the house in the darkness looking for the right spot to tighten. Fuck that. This is brilliant.
You have the best video ever.You are a very intelligent person.No music in the background.Nice and mellow talking explaining to us how to do it.Thank you for helping me
You know, this squeak sound was desirable in japanese castle floors. The sound was an alert for enemies or strangers coming inside when walking throuh the corridors. Taking this squeak off makes your home losing security in case a samurai decides to break throuh.
This will come in handy when I decide to go to Japan instead of meeting Monica in Paris were we promise to meet instead i bring my chandelier to my secret castle n the only way to get into the secret safe is to use the creamy floor board as audible tones to unlock the safe to stash the chandelier that I stole from Tiffanys causes it's priceless true fans will know my story of course I couldn't give the original perfect crime because then someone will know n it won't be perfect
This worked like magic for me. I bought the same kit u mentioned in the description. I had hardwood floor with horrible squeak that could wake up dead.. just put these 4 screws in.... can't believe it could be that easy..
Worked perfectly to fix the squeaks in on my floor with carpet. Instead of using the black took I drilled the nails deep into the floor and topped off hitting the head with a hammer. Easy, peasy. Thanks for the video.
Im definitely going to try this. If someone is looking that hard to see the holes, they dont need to be in my house. The squeaking is much more annoying.
I used these screws about 8 years ago and they're still holding fine. I, also, bought some of the Minwax pencils, one lighter for holes in the light finish area of the board and one for the dark finish area of the board - matching the color of the area wherever the screw hole is drilled. The Minwax filler has held up fine also. My application was not perfect, could go back and put in some more screws, but overall, this screw kit took care of 90% of my hardwood floor squeaks. I decided at that time that I wasn't going to go crazy and drill/install a bunch of screws in one concentrated area. I could try that, but there was such an improvement in the squeaks, I decided to stop at a certain level of satisfaction. Thought about starting a business with this method, but homeowners are so picky, I really didn't want to get into all that. Some homeowner might try to get a free floor finishing job out of me if the job was not absolutely perfect. The kit I bought has screws for where the drill hole is directly over a floor joist and for holes in open areas (not directly over a floor joist). You can check to see if you've drilled over a joist or not by dropping a straightened paper clip into the hole. If the hole is deeper than the length you drilled then you know you have not drilled into a joist. I used the appropriate screw.
This is great, thank you. I think I'm going to share this with my landlord to get permission to fix our floors. We have the same floors as you have, so this is perfect.
@@ahmctech104 THAT MAY HAPPEN INSTED OF HAVE MANY HOLES ON THE TOP OF THE FLOOR WAT I DO BEST WAY IS GO UNDER THE HOUSE AND SECURE THE SUB FLOOR WITH GLUE AND SCREWS MUST OF THE TIME IS FIXED
Yep..hope they allowed. I have wanted my apartment manager to understand how the SQUEAK in apartment floor above me could in fact be resolved as shown, having driven me nuts. If she would have had to experience daily herself, it would have been taken care of. 😏
Great vid, thanks dude. So many haters... everyone wants to act like they somehow know the objectively-correct or objectively-best way to do everything... I bet if you did bother to locate the joists before drilling the holes, you'd get comments like: "Why are you wasting your time finding the joists?! Just quickly put a few of these screws in the general area and the squeak will go away!" lol
Also some houses have a sub-floor under the hardwood. Considering the boards in this video don't all line up where joists would be, I think there is a good possibility it has a sub-floor. If the squeak is occurring between the hardwood and the sub-floor and not by the joist, then putting screws in the joist will not help. While the perfect video in a Utopian society would have mentioned all these and other things, I don't see any of these other a**holes making the perfect squeak fixing video either. Also, most people who look up how to fix things on UA-cam will watch multiple videos before attempting to fix the thing. Between the different videos, they get all the information they need.
I have had a squeaky floor. I have not used snap screws as I have not had them. I used regular wood screws which I used on tasmanian oak wooden floor. In my case screws did not help. What helped is go under the floor measure distance between the beams. Cut plywood 17mm thickness 1 cm less then the distance between the beams and glue it with epoxy(you can use any good glue I just tried use epoxy) and put 5 screws 25mm to hold it untill it cures. I removed screws few days after epoxy cured. That's it. No more squeaking after that in that concrete place. With screws I only made the floor looking bad as the heads visible. I had to hide them after. Do not do my mistake. The screws do not work. I even put 2 screws onto floor board on each bearing it made slighly better but doesn't solve the problem. Gluing plywood from the bottom really helps. In my case the squeak was caused by wood planks but not the nails. I'm pretty sure as I was sitting on my knees pushing down by whole my weight 85kg the floor board and using impact wrench was running 40mm screws into 19mm tasmanian oak floorboards. The beams also were made of some hardwood, I pushed the screws 1mm deeper the surface. That did not work well. Now I'm struggling hide those screws. I do not think that snap screws would help in my case.
i tried ages to get rid of squeek flooring, when i lifted the flooring up i found a mouse trapped, and it was squeeking from pressure etc it was so happy to see me, i gave it some cheese and warm bath and sent him on his way.
FYI to anyone who wants to try this. YOU NEED TO SCREW INTO THE FLOOR JOISTS. The reason he needed so many screws is because he wasn’t screening into them. The squeak you hear normal comes from the middle of two joints. Intuitively you think that’s where you need to screw in… THATS WRONG. The noise comes from that area pushing out the nails on either side… where the joists are. When you screw into both joists surrounding that squeak, the noise will be fixed
Idk how you would hit electrical wires in a residential home. Power is at the breaker box which is mounted on a wall near the exterior. Everything else runs off of that and is run into the Attic and down the walls. Unless you have a receptacle mounted in the floor which you see in some homes you shouldn't have wires under the House
Helped me big time! Big thanks and thumbs up to you :) (I just screwed in 15 to 20 full girthier screws to fix 4 squeaking parchment pieces - did not care about messing up the looks as it will be covered by a rug anyway)
I have carpeting in my rental but I want to fix these squeaking issues. Its everywhere and its so annoying. But I do not know what's under the carpet. I have to see if I can even try to remove the carpet to fix it. Thanks for the video.
@Dee M: This can be done through carpet if you know what is underneath. (See the three-prong metal guide near the beginning of the video.) Perhaps ask the rental owner - they may be able to tell you. Good luck.
A buddy of mine went into the basement under his house and screwed upward. No holes on top. Not sure how he and his wife did this but it worked way better than drilling holes on top of the wood 60 year old hard wood floors.
@EL34XYZ: it’s in other comments somewhere, but yes, if you do have access from beneath the floor that it obviously way better than having to drive in screws through the finished floor. In this video, however, it’s an upstairs room so no access from below, and the area would be covered by a rug anyway. You have to do what works best for your situation.
Blend-Fil is ok, but eventually it will wear away b/c it's basically a crayon, as you note. Minwax tinted wood filler is an excellent and permanent alternative.
Me personally, I'd just live with the squeak. If it was one nail, fine, but to put 6 or 7 in one small area stops the squeak but leaves clear circular markings, so it's a case out out of the fire and into the frying pan. As for the video, I appreciate you showing us how it's done with that screw breaker gadget.
You really should screw into a joist if you cam, but if you can't find a floor joist, you can use 11/4 pocket hole square-recess screws. Use a brad point drill bit the same diameter as the screw head and drill down slightly deeper than the screw head, then, in the same hole, drill down only through the hardwood just short of hitting the underlayment with a bit matching the size of the screw shank (these screws have about a 3/4" long smooth shank just above the threads). Then run your screw in until it seats snugly. The head should be slightly under flush with the flooring. Walk around and see if the squeak is silenced, if not you may have to tighten the screw a bit more. I fill the hole with a light colored wood putty until not quite full, allow it to dry, then camouflage the wood putty with artist's magic markers and seal with a drop of clear sealer. This method only works on 3/4 hardwood planks.
With some (newer) floors going into the joists will not fix the squeak as the squeak is coming from where the plywood and floor meet. Best situation to repair is if you have solution is if you have access to the sub floor. Not always the case, however. Interested to hear other solutions where there are multiple squeaks over a wider area (other than hiring a flooring contractor).
@Gabriela Maurier: The screws and other items are shown at 0:05. Also, I included a link in the description. And extra screws are part #3251. Good luck!
So, what is the alternative? Tearing up all of the floor or would you be able to maybe get just the pieces up where the squeak is and replace them with new panels? I've got vinyl and I'm not sure if it would be easier to pull some of it up and fix the wood down underneath.
@Matt Liston: If possible, you could access the floor from underneath, for example an unfinished basement. Then you could take care of the squeak from below without putting holes in the floor from above. But that’s not always feasible for example like in an upstairs bedroom but having a finished ceiling on the first floor directly below. I definitely would not put holes in vinyl using the squeak-no-more kit.
@@LongologoProductions Thanks, mate. Yeah I'm a flat with another family below me. The squeaks are pissing me off but I think it's maybe better to wait and fully soundproof the floor and replace the vinyl then.
That's OK for certain particularly noisey spots, but with hardwood floors, every tongue and groover point on the boards make noise unless it is over concrete, and not a subfloor issue. Somthing needs to be between the tongue and groove. Even if you sand off the finish, can you get anything in there.
@Tkeyah Nicole: It could be a number of things. Floor boards against subfloor, or floor boards against floor boards, or floor boards flexing due to a gap underneath, etc. Hard to be sure without seeing/hearing/feeling them….
@rentatent85: How? The wood will expand when it absorbs moisture, as would occur in a high-humidity season like summer along the U.S. east coast, and will release that moisture during dry months like over winter. Although this may primarily occur from below the floor, assuming the top surface is sealed/coated. Depending on where you live and how consistent you keep your home temperature and humidity, you will notice that some squeaks may come and go with the season. Save this project for those really annoying squeaks that outlast several seasons and justify drilling a hole(s) into your floor.
@Juddone1: In the early part of the video, I show the related tool for use going through carpet (it’s the one with the three spikes). Before screwing into anything, make sure to walk around the area to listen for noise and also to feel for any flexing of the floor. (I realize this may be difficult on a carpeted floor.) It might also be helpful to have another person to stand on or over the area of the squeak in the floor while you walk around adjacent areas to listen for whether the squeak moves or not. This can help you isolate where to place a screw or screws. Good luck.
looks like when you use the guide the holes are smaller. Must be when you bend the screw to snap it off makes the hole less clean. My floor has so many squeaks.
@STRIKER YYC: The holes might have a *slightly* smaller diameter when using the guide, because it does facilitate 'snapping' the screw at the score markings and allows you to mostly just lift straight up to remove the upper portion of the screw. But in terms of noticeability of the filler in the hole I found that it really doesn't make that much of a difference so I have opted for the expediency of skipping use of the guide when I know there are going to be several screws needed, or when, as I mentioned in the video, the screw still does not fully "snap" off even when using the guide. However, as you noted, bending the screw back-and-forth to snap it off (when inserted without the guide) will inevitably push some of that wood away at the surface of the floor--just not by much if you're careful. Good point to consider nonetheless. Thank you!
@Robert Ghiretti: It might, however, squeaks on stairs can be a different animal. If you can access the stairs from beneath, e.g., if the stairs go down to a basement and are exposed from beneath, it would be better to hammer in a shim between the riser and the step from beneath or use a short screw from beneath.
@Cal Park: you should take steps to stop the squeaking before you put down any new floor. Even if you remove the wood floor you should make sure the squeaks are not present due to the subfloor. Also, putting vinyl over hardwood could lead to problems for both the vinyl (maybe uneven surface, poor adhesion) and the hardwood underneath (damage to wood stain, potential trapped moisture and rotting). Removing the wood floor might also affect your baseboard/trim height and thresholds. Whatever you decide, definitely stop the squeaking first. Good luck.
Amazing. Do you happen to be in NYC anytime soon? I’ll hire you to do this for me 😂 Question - can you do this for any floor boards that are lifted? Just moved into an apartment with gorgeous hardwood floors, but some pieces seem to lift up a tiny bit
@Claudia Rodriguez: 🤣 Lifted boards could be secured to the subfloor but I would be very careful because it could be a symptom of larger problems. See www.discountflooringdepot.co.uk/blog/2016/10/wooden-floor-lifting-heres/amp/. See also www.woodandbeyond.com/blog/common-solid-wood-floor-problem-bulging-and-lifting/?amp
Thanks. See starting at 3:06 where the ones used in this video are just examples and noting that the fillers have different numbers based on how dark they are and what tones are desired. Also, lighting has an impact on how well the chosen color matches the wood color so no harm in blending two colors if needed. In my case I used what I had for demonstration purposes and mentioned that I was going to be covering it with an area rug anyway so it wouldn’t matter.
@Andrew Turnbull: If that happens, I would first try using a small screw extractor kit with the drill to back out the screw. You can get these kits on Amazon. If you’re not comfortable doing that, you could use a Dremel with an appropriate grinding head to (very carefully - because one slip and you will scratch the hell out of your floor!) remove the portion of the screw that remains above the level of the floor. Or, you can use an appropriate size nail punch and hammer to just pound the protruding portion of the screw shaft down below the level of the floor. Wear safety glasses when doing any of these because of the chance of metal fragments getting kicked up!
@Hapablap: Yes. This is discussed in some of the other comments. Also, you wouldn’t need screws this long. It would be much better to work from underneath if you can do that. In this video, I’m in an upstairs bedroom and the floor will be covered with an area rug. It was better for me to do it this way than to cut a hole in the ceiling below on the first floor.
Did you consider drilling a slightly smaller hole and using a long, trim screw (typically using a Torx bit). These screws have very narrow heads that don't split the flooring, if the proper size drill is used to pre-drill the hole. Trim screws are designed so that you can drive the narrow head of the screw just under the top surface of the floor, but the head puts enough pressure on the sides and bottom of the pre-drilled hole to hold the floor board in place. With a 1/8" hole drilled into the floor, and the head snapped off, there's not much of the screw left to hold the floor board down and stop the squeaking.
@Anonymous98: An interesting thought for sure. However, I also used a 1/8” drill bit for the screws used in this video. The screw heads don’t go all the way down, rather, they snap off at a scored part of the shaft. That scored part breaks off just below the surface of the floor. I think this is no wider than the option you describe. But still it is something else to consider. Thanks for commenting.
Lol. Give me a break. What electrical wires are running under the floor? Maybe if he was next to the breaker box. The majority of wires are run in the ceiling and down the walls not under the floor. Unless a specific appliance is installed.
Can you pls tell me, if I put laminate on top of the squeaky wood floors, wd they still be squeaky? Or I have to fix the squeak 1st and then put the laminate?
If I had a concrete screed under the wood, would this screw be fine? I have a floating interlocking wooden floor, with a PVC carpet underneath and then the concrete base
@Mayte Bautista: definitely before! Then you can fill any holes with a traditional wood filler, do your sanding, and then refinish without having to worry about matching filler in the holes to an already stained /finished floor.
I've done that several times. When I didn't have any wood filler I used Wood Glue and saw dust. Also on drywall and plaster to fill nail and screw holes, When I didn't have any plaster, I've used Elmer's Glue and a small piece of toilet paper balled up. After it dried and I painted you couldn't tell there was ever a hole.
@Danny Young: Great question. After doing several of these with the tool, you start to get a feel for how far down the screw needs to go. Specifically, I look for the ridge or scoring around the shaft of the screw above the threaded part and below the head. That ridge/scoring should end up just a little bit below the surface of the hardwood floor so that when the top part of the screw is snapped off, the uppermost part of the screw that’s left behind is below the surface of the floor. Then you can fill the small hole like I did in the latter part of the video. Hope that helps.
@SharpEdgeStandard Official: that’s a tough one. What about using a more traditional wood filler that hardens (instead of the soft wax I used in the video) and then using a stain pen or something to match the color. For the high gloss / clear finish, you could use a tiny paint brush (like for painting plastic models) and lay down the tiniest amount of the high gloss clear coat on top? It would be extremely tedious but it would be precise if you were concerned about visibility. However no matter what it won’t be perfect like the original. How old are your floors? Any existing nails in them that are visible under the gloss?
@@LongologoProductions hi. They’re Bruce 2.25” installed in 2001. Basement is fully finished with drywall ceiling so can’t see underneath otherwise if fix from below. No visible nails or screws under finish, it’s tongue and groove install.
@SharpEdgeStandard Official: But you CAN access it from underneath! Given the high gloss finish on the floor, it would be so much better to just cut out a small piece of the basement drywall ceiling and take care of the squeaking with some shorter regular screw(s) from below. It sounds like you have an identified area of concern for squeaking. You could measure out from two walls to note that area, and then repeat the measurements in the basement directly below so you will know where to cut out a small piece of the drywall ceiling. And before you start inserting some screws, you could have someone else stand on the floor from above and flex it to make sure you hear the squeaking directly below. Then, with that person standing still with their weight on the area of the squeaking, you should be able to run in one short screw or a few short screws from below to take care of it. After that, wait a couple of weeks to make sure the squeak is gone to your liking before you repair/paint the drywall section. So, unless your basement ceiling drywall has some stucco or textured pattern, I really think it would be so much easier/better to repair a small drywall hole and repaint that part of the ceiling. After all, it's just a basement. Worst case, you get frustrated with a few drywall holes in your basement ceiling. That would be a better alternative than being frustrated with holes in your high gloss floor that you may never be able to perfectly hide.
I’m having a hard time understanding why are you screwing those screws 😓😫… can someone explain to be how that works? 🙉… I have a few areas that I would like to repair 🙏 thank you!!!!
Arcelia, The part of the screw that remains after breaking off the head of the screw has the thread imbedded in both the board and the joist underneath it. The thread of the screw ensures the board and the joist remain in a fixed position without any movement in the board when someone walks over it. Try screwing two pieces of wood together and you will get the idea.
The only problem is how long is the screw have to be because how do you know you're not going to bottom out into the concrete because all you have is 1/4 inch underlayment
@Kamal Rayamajhi: Good question. The drill bit, as you can see, shouldn’t go much deeper than the floor+subfloor thickness. Then, before you put the longer screw into the drilled hole, you could insert a long thin nail and wiggle it around a bit to tell whether there is anything obstructing directly underneath. Also, you can use a stud finder to help find the floor joists. I would expect that most wiring or pipes would be attached to the floor joists-if there are any going underneath the floor in the first place. And if so I would expect they wouldn’t be attached right up underneath the subfloor. But stranger things have happened! So try drilling your hole just deep enough until you feel the bit pass the subfloor and then feel around with a nail - that might be the easiest way to check things out if you’re concerned.
@@qkayani : Sorry to read this. Checking first like I explained above in reply to @Kamal Rayamajhi would have prevented this from happening. Also there is a big difference in feeling between drilling a hole into wood and drilling into a copper pipe. Noticeably more pressure would need to be put on the drill to get the drill bit to “go straight through a copper water pipe”. The moment any resistance is encountered that is more than needed to go through the wood, stop drilling and check as noted previously. Otherwise simply pushing even harder on the drill is just asking for problems. Again, sorry to read this.
I tried using a nail on my laminate flooring that is very uneven underneath, the mail would pop right back up when you walk near it, wood a screw make a difference ?
This has not been on the market for a long time, long enough to let a huge population to not be familiar with this. I used this many years ago, used multiple screws and did not stop the squeaking. What I did not know was the danger of hitting pipes and electrical. Thank goodness I avoided that hazard.
@Huaping Luo: At about 1:30 you’ll see putting in one of the screws. For brevity, I did not show drilling and inserting the screw for every single hole although I explained it verbally in the video.
@@LongologoProductions No worries man, we ain't all perfect, and I make a good many errors myself. In fact, I was a bit groggy when I replied last night, and I'm a little annoyed at myself thus morning for pointing out such a minor and inconsequential error, especially in an otherwise excellent and informative video. God Bless, and have a great day!
@@jacobmccandles1767 : It’s ok! I totally mixed that up when I was speaking. Someone else pointed it out in the comments a few months ago too. I would rather people help with correcting something legitimate like you did than some other people just leaving unhelpful comments. So it’s all good. Thanks for responding.
straight up wizard. thx for this. I don't have a basement. I'm on blocks. And I'm not able to squeeze underneath the house in the darkness looking for the right spot to tighten. Fuck that. This is brilliant.
You have the best video ever.You are a very intelligent person.No music in the background.Nice and mellow talking explaining to us how to do it.Thank you for helping me
Thank you!
You know, this squeak sound was desirable in japanese castle floors. The sound was an alert for enemies or strangers coming inside when walking throuh the corridors. Taking this squeak off makes your home losing security in case a samurai decides to break throuh.
@Argean Comics: Yes! The nightingale floors in Nijō Castle (Kyoto, Japan)!
This will come in handy when I decide to go to Japan instead of meeting Monica in Paris were we promise to meet instead i bring my chandelier to my secret castle n the only way to get into the secret safe is to use the creamy floor board as audible tones to unlock the safe to stash the chandelier that I stole from Tiffanys causes it's priceless true fans will know my story of course I couldn't give the original perfect crime because then someone will know n it won't be perfect
@@vipka9 😄😄
@@vipka9 : 🤣
Experienced invading ninjas would take off their belt, roll it up and then throw it to unroll it across the squeaky floor, spreading their weight
Thanks for getting straight to the point & explaining everything so clearly.
@Mo Poppins: Thanks for the kind words!
This worked like magic for me. I bought the same kit u mentioned in the description. I had hardwood floor with horrible squeak that could wake up dead.. just put these 4 screws in.... can't believe it could be that easy..
@Inderpal Singh: happy to learn that it helped! Great news!
Worked perfectly to fix the squeaks in on my floor with carpet. Instead of using the black took I drilled the nails deep into the floor and topped off hitting the head with a hammer. Easy, peasy. Thanks for the video.
@PM Channel: Thanks for commenting!
Im definitely going to try this. If someone is looking that hard to see the holes, they dont need to be in my house. The squeaking is much more annoying.
@@lauradaniel2492 I know right!!!
I used these screws about 8 years ago and they're still holding fine.
I, also, bought some of the Minwax pencils, one lighter for holes in the light finish area of the board and one for the dark finish area of the board - matching the color of the area wherever the screw hole is drilled. The Minwax filler has held up fine also.
My application was not perfect, could go back and put in some more screws, but overall, this screw kit took care of 90% of my hardwood floor squeaks. I decided at that time that I wasn't going to go crazy and drill/install a bunch of screws in one concentrated area. I could try that, but there was such an improvement in the squeaks, I decided to stop at a certain level of satisfaction.
Thought about starting a business with this method, but homeowners are so picky, I really didn't want to get into all that. Some homeowner might try to get a free floor finishing job out of me if the job was not absolutely perfect.
The kit I bought has screws for where the drill hole is directly over a floor joist and for holes in open areas (not directly over a floor joist). You can check to see if you've drilled over a joist or not by dropping a straightened paper clip into the hole. If the hole is deeper than the length you drilled then you know you have not drilled into a joist. I used the appropriate screw.
Thanks for detailed info about the different sized screws and if they're over a joist or not.
@@jlv3x I agree. This video explains a lot. I certainly don’t know which parts are over a hoist or not, but now I do.
Can you use the paper clip method over carpeted wood floors? Thank you for your help.
Where did you buy this kit from?
Thank you my guy. I just did this on my staircase squeaks and it worked like a charm.
@kasun611: Great! Glad it worked for you!
This is great, thank you. I think I'm going to share this with my landlord to get permission to fix our floors. We have the same floors as you have, so this is perfect.
Dear landlord,
I tried something I saw on UA-cam and drilled into a water line. Sorry.
@@ahmctech104 THAT MAY HAPPEN INSTED OF HAVE MANY HOLES ON THE TOP OF THE FLOOR WAT I DO BEST WAY IS GO UNDER THE HOUSE AND SECURE THE SUB FLOOR
WITH GLUE AND SCREWS MUST OF THE TIME IS FIXED
Yep..hope they allowed. I have wanted my apartment manager to understand how the SQUEAK in apartment floor above me could in fact be resolved as shown, having driven me nuts.
If she would have had to experience daily herself, it would have been taken care of. 😏
Great vid, thanks dude. So many haters... everyone wants to act like they somehow know the objectively-correct or objectively-best way to do everything... I bet if you did bother to locate the joists before drilling the holes, you'd get comments like: "Why are you wasting your time finding the joists?! Just quickly put a few of these screws in the general area and the squeak will go away!" lol
@Daniel Alel: Right on! Thanks for the comment! 😁
Also some houses have a sub-floor under the hardwood. Considering the boards in this video don't all line up where joists would be, I think there is a good possibility it has a sub-floor. If the squeak is occurring between the hardwood and the sub-floor and not by the joist, then putting screws in the joist will not help. While the perfect video in a Utopian society would have mentioned all these and other things, I don't see any of these other a**holes making the perfect squeak fixing video either. Also, most people who look up how to fix things on UA-cam will watch multiple videos before attempting to fix the thing. Between the different videos, they get all the information they need.
I went ahead and got those screws…It works very well!!!
Thank you for sharing the video with us.
Would you please share the link where you got these nails? I am not sure what kind of floor I have, do you think that works for all floors?
Very cool & helpful! Appreciate you for taking the time to teach!
I have had a squeaky floor. I have not used snap screws as I have not had them. I used regular wood screws which I used on tasmanian oak wooden floor. In my case screws did not help. What helped is go under the floor measure distance between the beams. Cut plywood 17mm thickness 1 cm less then the distance between the beams and glue it with epoxy(you can use any good glue I just tried use epoxy) and put 5 screws 25mm to hold it untill it cures. I removed screws few days after epoxy cured. That's it. No more squeaking after that in that concrete place. With screws I only made the floor looking bad as the heads visible. I had to hide them after. Do not do my mistake. The screws do not work. I even put 2 screws onto floor board on each bearing it made slighly better but doesn't solve the problem. Gluing plywood from the bottom really helps. In my case the squeak was caused by wood planks but not the nails. I'm pretty sure as I was sitting on my knees pushing down by whole my weight 85kg the floor board and using impact wrench was running 40mm screws into 19mm tasmanian oak floorboards. The beams also were made of some hardwood, I pushed the screws 1mm deeper the surface. That did not work well. Now I'm struggling hide those screws. I do not think that snap screws would help in my case.
i tried ages to get rid of squeek flooring, when i lifted the flooring up i found a mouse trapped, and it was squeeking from pressure etc it was so happy to see me, i gave it some cheese and warm bath and sent him on his way.
🐭🔫
lol
😂
Your a kind hearted man
Well this guy just shot the little guy full of nails. Guess it did him in. The squeaking ceased.
Man love this video will try these screws and stops these stupid squeaks
Nice, I'd rather have a floor with few small holes in it than having a squeaky floor. Thank you for sharing
This is great! I’m gonna do the same to fix a super annoying squeak in my mud room.
FYI to anyone who wants to try this. YOU NEED TO SCREW INTO THE FLOOR JOISTS. The reason he needed so many screws is because he wasn’t screening into them. The squeak you hear normal comes from the middle of two joints. Intuitively you think that’s where you need to screw in… THATS WRONG. The noise comes from that area pushing out the nails on either side… where the joists are. When you screw into both joists surrounding that squeak, the noise will be fixed
100% true
Excited to try this HUGE THANK YOU for sharing!
Good enough, now back to life! Thanks
SO TO THE POINT! Awesome video!
@NY: Thanks!
Why are you using the dark wax on the light plank ? You can mix colors to blend areas to near perfection.
Thank you for this excellent tutorial!
I really appreciate you listing the items and order info
@PS Matthews: thank you and glad it was helpful.
I have sampled the various tones that my squeaking floor makes and use the samples (with some processing) as percussion sounds in some tracks.
@Piktor Music: That's cool -- the one good thing to do with a squeaky floor if you don't get rid of the squeaks!
I’ll have to try this!
I don’t even have hardwood flooring but the video was good
BEWARE ANYTIME YOU DRILL INTO YOUR FLOOR YOU HAVE THE POTENTIAL TO HIT ELECTRICAL LINES. AS AN ELECTRICIAN I HAVE SEEN IT TOO MANY TIMES.
Thank you for that very important piece of information.
Idk how you would hit electrical wires in a residential home. Power is at the breaker box which is mounted on a wall near the exterior. Everything else runs off of that and is run into the Attic and down the walls. Unless you have a receptacle mounted in the floor which you see in some homes you shouldn't have wires under the House
@@in2indies333 if you have a crawl space there could be.
@@in2indies333 2nd level of the house would have some wires in the floor.
@@in2indies333 u cant be serious 🧐
Best helpful video I’ve seen here!
@melinageofashion: Thanks!
Appreciate your help on this!
@pizzanpepsi: Glad to know it helped!
Helped me big time! Big thanks and thumbs up to you :) (I just screwed in 15 to 20 full girthier screws to fix 4 squeaking parchment pieces - did not care about messing up the looks as it will be covered by a rug anyway)
@Edd M.: Wow! Glad the noise is gone (and that there will be a rug!). Thanks for the kind words.
I have carpeting in my rental but I want to fix these squeaking issues. Its everywhere and its so annoying. But I do not know what's under the carpet. I have to see if I can even try to remove the carpet to fix it. Thanks for the video.
@Dee M: This can be done through carpet if you know what is underneath. (See the three-prong metal guide near the beginning of the video.) Perhaps ask the rental owner - they may be able to tell you. Good luck.
A buddy of mine went into the basement under his house and screwed upward. No holes on top. Not sure how he and his wife did this but it worked way better than drilling holes on top of the wood 60 year old hard wood floors.
@EL34XYZ: it’s in other comments somewhere, but yes, if you do have access from beneath the floor that it obviously way better than having to drive in screws through the finished floor. In this video, however, it’s an upstairs room so no access from below, and the area would be covered by a rug anyway. You have to do what works best for your situation.
Blend-Fil is ok, but eventually it will wear away b/c it's basically a crayon, as you note. Minwax tinted wood filler is an excellent and permanent alternative.
Check out wood wise patch. Used by the professionals.
@@samsngdevice5103 still needs to be sealed wood wise will wipe out with a damp rag
Must be an older floor. Very fine looking Oak ... do not see many like that. I have a craftsman home built in 1939 . The floor looks similar ...
OMG you save my life, i m not able the hear the sound, i will try your hint
That’s awesome.
Can I do that on stairs covered with a carpet?.
Thanks for sharing 👍
@Adan Arceo: Yes; yes you can. Near the beginning of the video I show the tool to use over carpet. Thanks for the kind words!
Great work 😁👍😎
absolutely great tutorial.
@DegenWoW: Thanks very much!
Me personally, I'd just live with the squeak. If it was one nail, fine, but to put 6 or 7 in one small area stops the squeak but leaves clear circular markings, so it's a case out out of the fire and into the frying pan. As for the video, I appreciate you showing us how it's done with that screw breaker gadget.
You really should screw into a joist if you cam, but if you can't find a floor joist, you can use 11/4 pocket hole square-recess screws. Use a brad point drill bit the same diameter as the screw head and drill down slightly deeper than the screw head, then, in the same hole, drill down only through the hardwood just short of hitting the underlayment with a bit matching the size of the screw shank (these screws have about a 3/4" long smooth shank just above the threads). Then run your screw in until it seats snugly. The head should be slightly under flush with the flooring. Walk around and see if the squeak is silenced, if not you may have to tighten the screw a bit more. I fill the hole with a light colored wood putty until not quite full, allow it to dry, then camouflage the wood putty with artist's magic markers and seal with a drop of clear sealer. This method only works on 3/4 hardwood planks.
With some (newer) floors going into the joists will not fix the squeak as the squeak is coming from where the plywood and floor meet.
Best situation to repair is if you have solution is if you have access to the sub floor. Not always the case, however.
Interested to hear other solutions where there are multiple squeaks over a wider area (other than hiring a flooring contractor).
Very nice!
Can this product use on engineered wood?
What kind of screws did you use? I did not hear you mention them. So excited about this! Will be fixing my squeaky floors soon!
@Gabriela Maurier: The screws and other items are shown at 0:05. Also, I included a link in the description. And extra screws are part #3251. Good luck!
did you end up fixing your floors?
@@psychakilla : Yes - still as good as shown in the video.
Do they make them for headboards?
@Joseph Robison: 🤣
So, what is the alternative? Tearing up all of the floor or would you be able to maybe get just the pieces up where the squeak is and replace them with new panels? I've got vinyl and I'm not sure if it would be easier to pull some of it up and fix the wood down underneath.
@Matt Liston: If possible, you could access the floor from underneath, for example an unfinished basement. Then you could take care of the squeak from below without putting holes in the floor from above. But that’s not always feasible for example like in an upstairs bedroom but having a finished ceiling on the first floor directly below. I definitely would not put holes in vinyl using the squeak-no-more kit.
@@LongologoProductions Thanks, mate. Yeah I'm a flat with another family below me. The squeaks are pissing me off but I think it's maybe better to wait and fully soundproof the floor and replace the vinyl then.
Wood glue works good to for a filler 👍✌️
That's OK for certain particularly noisey spots, but with hardwood floors, every tongue and groover point on the boards make noise unless it is over concrete, and not a subfloor issue. Somthing needs to be between the tongue and groove. Even if you sand off the finish, can you get anything in there.
Screw into the darker sections of the wood if possible. The wood filler will be much less noticeable
Use multiple filler colors.
Is it not necessary to find the joists underneath?
@Ese Snoopy: It can be helpful in some situations but not necessary in all situations.
So you did not have to hit a floor joist?
@juddone1: some people say you always have to be over a floor joist, but that’s not always the case in all situations.
My floors make a cracking sound when I walk on them. Any idea what that is? Just age? Its annoying...
@Tkeyah Nicole: It could be a number of things. Floor boards against subfloor, or floor boards against floor boards, or floor boards flexing due to a gap underneath, etc. Hard to be sure without seeing/hearing/feeling them….
How will the wood expand and contract in changing humidity?🤔 I think this floor will have more problems in the future
@rentatent85: How? The wood will expand when it absorbs moisture, as would occur in a high-humidity season like summer along the U.S. east coast, and will release that moisture during dry months like over winter. Although this may primarily occur from below the floor, assuming the top surface is sealed/coated. Depending on where you live and how consistent you keep your home temperature and humidity, you will notice that some squeaks may come and go with the season. Save this project for those really annoying squeaks that outlast several seasons and justify drilling a hole(s) into your floor.
Question, I have a carpet over the hard wood floors, do I need to find floor joice to use this or can I just screw in like you did without carpet
@Juddone1: In the early part of the video, I show the related tool for use going through carpet (it’s the one with the three spikes). Before screwing into anything, make sure to walk around the area to listen for noise and also to feel for any flexing of the floor. (I realize this may be difficult on a carpeted floor.) It might also be helpful to have another person to stand on or over the area of the squeak in the floor while you walk around adjacent areas to listen for whether the squeak moves or not. This can help you isolate where to place a screw or screws. Good luck.
looks like when you use the guide the holes are smaller. Must be when you bend the screw to snap it off makes the hole less clean. My floor has so many squeaks.
@STRIKER YYC: The holes might have a *slightly* smaller diameter when using the guide, because it does facilitate 'snapping' the screw at the score markings and allows you to mostly just lift straight up to remove the upper portion of the screw. But in terms of noticeability of the filler in the hole I found that it really doesn't make that much of a difference so I have opted for the expediency of skipping use of the guide when I know there are going to be several screws needed, or when, as I mentioned in the video, the screw still does not fully "snap" off even when using the guide. However, as you noted, bending the screw back-and-forth to snap it off (when inserted without the guide) will inevitably push some of that wood away at the surface of the floor--just not by much if you're careful. Good point to consider nonetheless. Thank you!
How thick is the underlayment?
Will this work on squeaky stairs also?
@Robert Ghiretti: It might, however, squeaks on stairs can be a different animal. If you can access the stairs from beneath, e.g., if the stairs go down to a basement and are exposed from beneath, it would be better to hammer in a shim between the riser and the step from beneath or use a short screw from beneath.
Do I still need to fill the hole if I am going to lay LVP flooring on it?
@Kelly Kai: No need to fill the hole(s) if you’re going to cover the floor with something else (LVP, rug, etc.).
Is it better to rip out old wood floor that squeaks before putting vinyl flooring? OR just put new vinyl flooring on top of my squeaking old wood.
@Cal Park: you should take steps to stop the squeaking before you put down any new floor. Even if you remove the wood floor you should make sure the squeaks are not present due to the subfloor. Also, putting vinyl over hardwood could lead to problems for both the vinyl (maybe uneven surface, poor adhesion) and the hardwood underneath (damage to wood stain, potential trapped moisture and rotting). Removing the wood floor might also affect your baseboard/trim height and thresholds. Whatever you decide, definitely stop the squeaking first. Good luck.
Amazing. Do you happen to be in NYC anytime soon? I’ll hire you to do this for me 😂 Question - can you do this for any floor boards that are lifted? Just moved into an apartment with gorgeous hardwood floors, but some pieces seem to lift up a tiny bit
@Claudia Rodriguez: 🤣 Lifted boards could be secured to the subfloor but I would be very careful because it could be a symptom of larger problems. See www.discountflooringdepot.co.uk/blog/2016/10/wooden-floor-lifting-heres/amp/. See also www.woodandbeyond.com/blog/common-solid-wood-floor-problem-bulging-and-lifting/?amp
Minwax has a golden oak colored wood filler that would be a better match than the darker brown ones used in this video.
Thanks. See starting at 3:06 where the ones used in this video are just examples and noting that the fillers have different numbers based on how dark they are and what tones are desired. Also, lighting has an impact on how well the chosen color matches the wood color so no harm in blending two colors if needed. In my case I used what I had for demonstration purposes and mentioned that I was going to be covering it with an area rug anyway so it wouldn’t matter.
Put a little wipe-on-poly on the rag. It helps disolve the excess wax and matches the sheen of the surrounding area.
And what happens if the screw snaps higher than the laminate..how do you get the screw out with no head on...
@Andrew Turnbull: If that happens, I would first try using a small screw extractor kit with the drill to back out the screw. You can get these kits on Amazon. If you’re not comfortable doing that, you could use a Dremel with an appropriate grinding head to (very carefully - because one slip and you will scratch the hell out of your floor!) remove the portion of the screw that remains above the level of the floor. Or, you can use an appropriate size nail punch and hammer to just pound the protruding portion of the screw shaft down below the level of the floor. Wear safety glasses when doing any of these because of the chance of metal fragments getting kicked up!
Fixing squeaking hardwood floor solution!
The ceiling is exposed in the basement, can I just do this from the bottom?
@Hapablap: Yes. This is discussed in some of the other comments. Also, you wouldn’t need screws this long. It would be much better to work from underneath if you can do that. In this video, I’m in an upstairs bedroom and the floor will be covered with an area rug. It was better for me to do it this way than to cut a hole in the ceiling below on the first floor.
Thanks for sharing.
Did you consider drilling a slightly smaller hole and using a long, trim screw (typically using a Torx bit). These screws have very narrow heads that don't split the flooring, if the proper size drill is used to pre-drill the hole. Trim screws are designed so that you can drive the narrow head of the screw just under the top surface of the floor, but the head puts enough pressure on the sides and bottom of the pre-drilled hole to hold the floor board in place. With a 1/8" hole drilled into the floor, and the head snapped off, there's not much of the screw left to hold the floor board down and stop the squeaking.
@Anonymous98: An interesting thought for sure. However, I also used a 1/8” drill bit for the screws used in this video. The screw heads don’t go all the way down, rather, they snap off at a scored part of the shaft. That scored part breaks off just below the surface of the floor. I think this is no wider than the option you describe. But still it is something else to consider. Thanks for commenting.
Why not use a finish nailer smaller hole and not even noticable
What color of minwax u used？ I have the exact same floor
@Ling Gu: See the description of the video for this information. I also mention it in the video.
Thanks a lot！
Great i will try it.
Where can I purchase this kit
@Hishine: The links are in the description underneath the video.
I need to do that,thanks for the video
Nice work looks like he missed the electrical great video
Lol. Give me a break. What electrical wires are running under the floor? Maybe if he was next to the breaker box. The majority of wires are run in the ceiling and down the walls not under the floor. Unless a specific appliance is installed.
After you were done were the wood boards all even with each other
@Brian Hansen: Yes. All even with each other.
@@LongologoProductionsthank you
can I use this on condo wood floor?
Time for me to start doing this all over the house, tired of the squeaking
Can you pls tell me, if I put laminate on top of the squeaky wood floors, wd they still be squeaky? Or I have to fix the squeak 1st and then put the laminate?
@Emilia Manda: Definitely have to fix the squeaking first.
Thank you !
Does the crayon harden
@mtn dew: maybe a little bit over time but still softer than the wood.
What’s the name of that tool you used as a fixture to break the screw in half. I have many squeaky areas in my home. Thanks in advance
@JerFurk Spitszer: There’s a link in the description below the video for where to get the tool.
Thanks. Found it on Amazon
If I had a concrete screed under the wood, would this screw be fine? I have a floating interlocking wooden floor, with a PVC carpet underneath and then the concrete base
You don’t wanna screw into concrete
@@jaywebster2125 sure
You can choose a color based on the wood color where the hole is and make them invisible.
Will these screws work on laminate floor? We recently put new laminate floor in kitchen but the board underneath is starting to squeak alot
@ngawang Paldon: I would not use this on laminate.
Would you recommend doing this before or after sanding and refinishing hardwood floors?
@Mayte Bautista: definitely before! Then you can fill any holes with a traditional wood filler, do your sanding, and then refinish without having to worry about matching filler in the holes to an already stained /finished floor.
@@LongologoProductions thank you!!
Don't do it
Great thank you
Using different color fillers will mask the holes even more.
@spikefivefivefive: Indeed. I noted that different colors can be used - see the description of the video and see around 5:38 in the video.
I would have used saw dust to fill in the holes (with some type of glue)
I've done that several times. When I didn't have any wood filler I used Wood Glue and saw dust. Also on drywall and plaster to fill nail and screw holes, When I didn't have any plaster, I've used Elmer's Glue and a small piece of toilet paper balled up. After it dried and I painted you couldn't tell there was ever a hole.
Thanks for the video! Would you recommend doing this before we sand our floors or after?
@christopher halloran: definitely after but before refinishing.
Exact question and answer I was looking for, thanks gents.
Can i do this to engineered hardwood floor as well?
@vinceqiu8240: That should be possible.
Not if it's a floating floor that expands and contracts. You'll risk getting bulges when the floor expands.
How do you know where to stop if you dont use the tool ?
@Danny Young: Great question. After doing several of these with the tool, you start to get a feel for how far down the screw needs to go. Specifically, I look for the ridge or scoring around the shaft of the screw above the threaded part and below the head. That ridge/scoring should end up just a little bit below the surface of the hardwood floor so that when the top part of the screw is snapped off, the uppermost part of the screw that’s left behind is below the surface of the floor. Then you can fill the small hole like I did in the latter part of the video. Hope that helps.
I need to do this but my problem lies with my floors extremely high gloss finish (wet look). Hiding the patch would be nearly impossible. Ideas?
@SharpEdgeStandard Official: that’s a tough one. What about using a more traditional wood filler that hardens (instead of the soft wax I used in the video) and then using a stain pen or something to match the color. For the high gloss / clear finish, you could use a tiny paint brush (like for painting plastic models) and lay down the tiniest amount of the high gloss clear coat on top? It would be extremely tedious but it would be precise if you were concerned about visibility. However no matter what it won’t be perfect like the original. How old are your floors? Any existing nails in them that are visible under the gloss?
@@LongologoProductions hi. They’re Bruce 2.25” installed in 2001. Basement is fully finished with drywall ceiling so can’t see underneath otherwise if fix from below. No visible nails or screws under finish, it’s tongue and groove install.
@SharpEdgeStandard Official: But you CAN access it from underneath! Given the high gloss finish on the floor, it would be so much better to just cut out a small piece of the basement drywall ceiling and take care of the squeaking with some shorter regular screw(s) from below. It sounds like you have an identified area of concern for squeaking. You could measure out from two walls to note that area, and then repeat the measurements in the basement directly below so you will know where to cut out a small piece of the drywall ceiling. And before you start inserting some screws, you could have someone else stand on the floor from above and flex it to make sure you hear the squeaking directly below. Then, with that person standing still with their weight on the area of the squeaking, you should be able to run in one short screw or a few short screws from below to take care of it. After that, wait a couple of weeks to make sure the squeak is gone to your liking before you repair/paint the drywall section. So, unless your basement ceiling drywall has some stucco or textured pattern, I really think it would be so much easier/better to repair a small drywall hole and repaint that part of the ceiling. After all, it's just a basement. Worst case, you get frustrated with a few drywall holes in your basement ceiling. That would be a better alternative than being frustrated with holes in your high gloss floor that you may never be able to perfectly hide.
@@LongologoProductions very true. Thanks for the insight I’ll probably just do as you suggested. Thanks and stay safe my friend.
I’m having a hard time understanding why are you screwing those screws 😓😫… can someone explain to be how that works? 🙉… I have a few areas that I would like to repair 🙏 thank you!!!!
Arcelia, The part of the screw that remains after breaking off the head of the screw has the thread imbedded in both the board and the joist underneath it. The thread of the screw ensures the board and the joist remain in a fixed position without any movement in the board when someone walks over it. Try screwing two pieces of wood together and you will get the idea.
@@snetsab ok, that makes sense. Thank you!
The only problem is how long is the screw have to be because how do you know you're not going to bottom out into the concrete because all you have is 1/4 inch underlayment
this is for flooring not on concrete but over crawlspace with wood joists
You always want to nailed or screw in the grain. It hides the holes better
@Moices Mendoza: Good point to make strategic use of the natural grain variation to help hide the holes.
That's Ludacris
The lo doesn't mean low torque it's actually more torque but less speed
@nightmare in action: You are correct -- I misspoke. At 0:45 I should have said "low speed" setting. Thank you for catching that.
This might work for floors that aren’t 70 years old. No matter how many I screw into my floor where joists are the floors still squeak horribly.
This is NUTS!!!
I have this problem on my laminated floor but I am worried that I might drill to either live cable or pipes underneath
@Kamal Rayamajhi: Good question. The drill bit, as you can see, shouldn’t go much deeper than the floor+subfloor thickness. Then, before you put the longer screw into the drilled hole, you could insert a long thin nail and wiggle it around a bit to tell whether there is anything obstructing directly underneath. Also, you can use a stud finder to help find the floor joists. I would expect that most wiring or pipes would be attached to the floor joists-if there are any going underneath the floor in the first place. And if so I would expect they wouldn’t be attached right up underneath the subfloor. But stranger things have happened! So try drilling your hole just deep enough until you feel the bit pass the subfloor and then feel around with a nail - that might be the easiest way to check things out if you’re concerned.
Guys, I did this and went straight through a copper water pipe. Ignore this video.
I check the other screws I put in and I barely missed the pipe.
@@qkayani : Sorry to read this. Checking first like I explained above in reply to @Kamal Rayamajhi would have prevented this from happening. Also there is a big difference in feeling between drilling a hole into wood and drilling into a copper pipe. Noticeably more pressure would need to be put on the drill to get the drill bit to “go straight through a copper water pipe”. The moment any resistance is encountered that is more than needed to go through the wood, stop drilling and check as noted previously. Otherwise simply pushing even harder on the drill is just asking for problems. Again, sorry to read this.
I tried using a nail on my laminate flooring that is very uneven underneath, the mail would pop right back up when you walk near it, wood a screw make a difference ?
@@joeelia1002 : only if it has something sturdy to grip into, otherwise it will eventually work its way out too.
This has not been on the market for a long time, long enough to let a huge population to not be familiar with this. I used this many years ago, used multiple screws and did not stop the squeaking. What I did not know was the danger of hitting pipes and electrical. Thank goodness I avoided that hazard.
In the video, you made few holes, but you did not put any screws to the holes r before you fill the them with the Winmax wood filler.
@Huaping Luo: At about 1:30 you’ll see putting in one of the screws. For brevity, I did not show drilling and inserting the screw for every single hole although I explained it verbally in the video.
Lo *speed* setting, high torque.
@Jacob McCandles: Yes that’s correct. I misspoke.
@@LongologoProductions
No worries man, we ain't all perfect, and I make a good many errors myself.
In fact, I was a bit groggy when I replied last night, and I'm a little annoyed at myself thus morning for pointing out such a minor and inconsequential error, especially in an otherwise excellent and informative video.
God Bless, and have a great day!
@@jacobmccandles1767 : It’s ok! I totally mixed that up when I was speaking. Someone else pointed it out in the comments a few months ago too. I would rather people help with correcting something legitimate like you did than some other people just leaving unhelpful comments. So it’s all good. Thanks for responding.
What is this product called n where can I buy
@Boundless Digital: The links are in the description for the video.