I like how you guys did videos for both these and the v2 fender flares. so we all could compare the look and installation of the two different types. awesome video
Even while being a 'gentle' as one could be with removing the old fender flare, I broke all but three bolts. Thanks! I've been thinking about Napier fenders.
These are one of my favorite style flares, great job. That is a good price for after market flares. I may grab a pair later on. Project overlander is bad ass and more my style so keep em coming.
Thanks! I like this style a lot better than the kind with external bolts. I love how clean they look. Doug makes these suckers thick too. They seem pretty tough. Time will tell but I'm impressed so far.
I'm going to get those. Look great. I'll combine these with some fender guards. Had BW's on my last one. I don't want to drill the doors. Hated them and they broke off.
Hey Tyler Thanks for the Video. I liked it so much that I purchased a set of V2bFF for my 2000 4 door XJ. Question, When lining up the front flares to trace the lower edge I notice they do not sit flat against the fender. The back of the lower edge of the front flares have a protrusion front and read that prevents them from sitting flat against the fender. Did yours have these? And did you have to just tilt them forward to get the lower edge to sit flush for tracing? Thanks in advance. PS: Hope you and your family are enjoying memorial day weekend. Regards, K
When I took those stock flare nuts off they didn't break. It's probably because I live in the desert and rust pretty much doesn't happen down here haha
Wish Napier would make these for ZJ Jeeps, especially 94 thru 98 models. There is a huge wave of these Jeep ZJs and almost no aftermarket parts available. Hint: a huge money making opportunity for forward thinking companies, am I right? Napier looks like they make a well thought out and complete fender flare kit. I enjoyed the install video. Nice work and sweet Cherokee. Thanks.
This model flare has a one piece rear, rather than the two piece V2's Matt installed back in 2014. I like the look of this style better. No coupon code for these?
Tyler, in the instructions it mentions needing three drill bits (1/8, 3/16 & 1/4"), but it doesn't mention which one for which holes. The 1/4" looks way too big for any of the holes. Is the 1/8" to countersink?
I have a couple issues with steering that I hope you guys could answer. I have a 1996 Cherokee XJ that's nearly stock. The tires are bigger but not sure the size. There's no lift. I replaced the tie rod ends,drag link,tie rod end that connects to pitman arm,track bar,and steering stabilizer. I used AcDelco "daily diver" parts from RockAuto. I have an issue with steering becoming loose starting at 50 MPH. I understand it supposed to get easier to steer the faster you go,but it didn't used to be like this. When I'm going highway speeds is not the time to over correct with such a loose steering wheel. I did get an alignment after doing the work. The second issue is I've got a shaking/wobble between 50-60 MPH. I've gotten all the tires balanced to see if it helped,but it was very minimal. I swapped the right front tire with my spare and had no improvement. I swapped the the left front tire with my old right front tire and it helped. I was feeling the shaking in wheel AND the body,but...
Now it's just in the body after swapping that tire. I don't know where to go from here on both issues. I'd appreciate some input from you jeep experts.
I would start with swapping the rear tires on to the front , You may have Radial vibrations ... which is a tire defect ... But also check your trackbar ......... Make sure it is in good shape and that the axle side mounting hole is not ovaled out ........ If it is , this will cause vibrations and DW ....
I wonder if anybody has painted these...maybe some krylon plastic primer x3 coats, wet sand then apply the base and clear coats. I have used paint from Automotive Touchup to redo large portions of my XJ with pretty damn good results.
Why the extra cut around the rear? I did all the little cuts and hammered them in and in 12yrs of wheelin I have never had an issue. I put a set of stock TJ flairs that I got in a trade. So the rear flairs are on the doors as well.
The extra cut on the rear fender makes it easier to temporarily mount up the fender to get your lines in the right place. I suppose you could do it without that cut though. I did the install exactly as shown in the Napier instructions included in the kit, but there's always more than one way to skin a cat.
I would like to see yours with the TJ flares..I have an old wagoneer and might want to see if the TJ's would fit..I might could turn the rear ones into a two piece if the doors are a probem.
Tyler: Any chance you could go over what you did (if anything) with those rails that are riveted into the lower rear quarter panel that hold the old bumper cladding?
I haven't decided what to do with them yet. I'm toying with the idea of using them somehow to attach camping gear to the back when I'm stopped and setting up camp. Like maybe have a small food prep table that locks into the slots or something. Stay tuned!
Hey Tyler this is Anthony down Florida I love your videos Man. I've got a 89 XJ I've had since 99 I love the damn thing but shortly after purchasing it I bought a set of 32 inch 15 inch rims and tire set off of a used car. I didn't have a lot of money and didn't know much about the lifts at the time. impatiently I went to cutting and hacking up on my Jeep and cut way past the pinch welds on my rear fender wells. I would like to reseal the rear quarter panels somehow. I see lots of videos of what not to do but I can't find any videos of what to do when you cut too far. any suggestions.
I would drill several small holes (about 1/4" or smaller) around the very edge of the wheel well. Clean the paint off them just enough to weld them. Then I would carefully weld the two together by filling in the holes with weld being very careful not to over heat the thin metal and warp it. This is not an easy fix (requires welding and painting) but that's how I would do it. Check with your local body shops though... They may be able to spot weld the body back together too.
Considering these fenders. Trying to do my research before dropping over $400. Followed the Napier link provided. Saw this . . . "Guaranteed Shipping: We ship within 21* days on most orders or we'll pay shipping". What century are they living in?
On the website that say these flares come in a textured black but on camera that look glossy. I want to match my bumpers to them. My bumpers are gloss black already so would they look right or would some sort of bedliner paint match better?
I would love to put these on my Jeep but when i put the after market bumpers on i removed the rear piece of molding that wraps around the rear and both sides had baseball size rust holes in the sheet metal. I don't need anyone seeing my fiberglass repair job lol
If you leave them in, they will require trimming and refitting. I'm not sure it's possible. It's not ideal to run without the liners, but it won't ruin your jeep or anything. Just makes it a bit harder to clean if you go mudding a lot.
We actually leave most of the liner in when we install the Flares. We cut it in half so the two pieces can shift. One forward, one to the rear to cover the gap at the door. We'll use zip screws or christmas tree inserts to hold them in place.
Hey, would this work on an XJ that has been cut and folded already? I've heard that you can't with Bushwacker but can with Napier. Any idea if that's true???
I like how you guys did videos for both these and the v2 fender flares. so we all could compare the look and installation of the two different types. awesome video
Even while being a 'gentle' as one could be with removing the old fender flare, I broke all but three bolts. Thanks! I've been thinking about Napier fenders.
These are one of my favorite style flares, great job. That is a good price for after market flares. I may grab a pair later on.
Project overlander is bad ass and more my style so keep em coming.
Thanks! I like this style a lot better than the kind with external bolts. I love how clean they look. Doug makes these suckers thick too. They seem pretty tough. Time will tell but I'm impressed so far.
Thanks for not editing out the spill of the washer fluid, I would have done the exact same thing lol =)
whoooops. imma moron. best line in the movie.
Super! That's a lot of work with zero defects...does look good*👍
so were you able to reinstall the windshield washer bottle?
I'm going to get those. Look great. I'll combine these with some fender guards. Had BW's on my last one. I don't want to drill the doors. Hated them and they broke off.
Hey Tyler
Thanks for the Video.
I liked it so much that I purchased a set of V2bFF for my 2000 4 door XJ.
Question,
When lining up the front flares to trace the lower edge I notice they do not sit flat against the fender.
The back of the lower edge of the front flares have a protrusion front and read that prevents them from sitting flat against the fender.
Did yours have these?
And did you have to just tilt them forward to get the lower edge to sit flush for tracing?
Thanks in advance.
PS:
Hope you and your family are enjoying memorial day weekend.
Regards,
K
When I took those stock flare nuts off they didn't break. It's probably because I live in the desert and rust pretty much doesn't happen down here haha
Wish Napier would make these for ZJ Jeeps, especially 94 thru 98 models. There is a huge wave of these Jeep ZJs and almost no aftermarket parts available. Hint: a huge money making opportunity for forward thinking companies, am I right? Napier looks like they make a well thought out and complete fender flare kit. I enjoyed the install video. Nice work and sweet Cherokee. Thanks.
This model flare has a one piece rear, rather than the two piece V2's Matt installed back in 2014. I like the look of this style better.
No coupon code for these?
+PB Salfen it's on the website
Thanks! Somehow I missed it the first time.
Good save on the fluid bottle, I have alot of moron moments myself.
great price! they look better than the bushwackers
I want to put these on my old 82 wagoneer but will need to do some more research.
Tyler, in the instructions it mentions needing three drill bits (1/8, 3/16 & 1/4"), but it doesn't mention which one for which holes. The 1/4" looks way too big for any of the holes. Is the 1/8" to countersink?
I have a couple issues with steering that I hope you guys could answer. I have a 1996 Cherokee XJ that's nearly stock. The tires are bigger but not sure the size. There's no lift.
I replaced the tie rod ends,drag link,tie rod end that connects to pitman arm,track bar,and steering stabilizer. I used AcDelco "daily diver" parts from RockAuto. I have an issue with steering becoming loose starting at 50 MPH. I understand it supposed to get easier to steer the faster you go,but it didn't used to be like this. When I'm going highway speeds is not the time to over correct with such a loose steering wheel. I did get an alignment after doing the work.
The second issue is I've got a shaking/wobble between 50-60 MPH. I've gotten all the tires balanced to see if it helped,but it was very minimal. I swapped the right front tire with my spare and had no improvement. I swapped the the left front tire with my old right front tire and it helped. I was feeling the shaking in wheel AND the body,but...
Now it's just in the body after swapping that tire. I don't know where to go from here on both issues. I'd appreciate some input from you jeep experts.
I would start with swapping the rear tires on to the front , You may have Radial vibrations ... which is a tire defect ... But also check your trackbar ......... Make sure it is in good shape and that the axle side mounting hole is not ovaled out ........ If it is , this will cause vibrations and DW ....
I wonder if anybody has painted these...maybe some krylon plastic primer x3 coats, wet sand then apply the base and clear coats. I have used paint from Automotive Touchup to redo large portions of my XJ with pretty damn good results.
What’s the point of drawing the extra 1/4 line above the original trace mark ? This is were I’m confused
Incase anyone was wondering bushwacker flat fender install is basically the same.
Why the extra cut around the rear? I did all the little cuts and hammered them in and in 12yrs of wheelin I have never had an issue. I put a set of stock TJ flairs that I got in a trade. So the rear flairs are on the doors as well.
The extra cut on the rear fender makes it easier to temporarily mount up the fender to get your lines in the right place. I suppose you could do it without that cut though. I did the install exactly as shown in the Napier instructions included in the kit, but there's always more than one way to skin a cat.
+Tyler Bleepinjeep you got that right!🍻 cheers
I would like to see yours with the TJ flares..I have an old wagoneer and might want to see if the TJ's would fit..I might could turn the rear ones into a two piece if the doors are a probem.
+Vegan Storm Within just google DHC314 and my Twitter page should pop up and there are pics of my XJ with TJ flairs on there 🍻 cheers
I will go there now!
How much are those? Thinking about getting some metal flares from Rusty’s
Also when doing the back, can you just cut everything but the pinch welds and only fold those? Feel like it’s less area to rust that way.
this is like the 4th guy calling himself bleepinJeep
Tyler: Any chance you could go over what you did (if anything) with those rails that are riveted into the lower rear quarter panel that hold the old bumper cladding?
I haven't decided what to do with them yet. I'm toying with the idea of using them somehow to attach camping gear to the back when I'm stopped and setting up camp. Like maybe have a small food prep table that locks into the slots or something. Stay tuned!
Hey Tyler this is Anthony down Florida I love your videos Man. I've got a 89 XJ I've had since 99 I love the damn thing but shortly after purchasing it I bought a set of 32 inch 15 inch rims and tire set off of a used car. I didn't have a lot of money and didn't know much about the lifts at the time. impatiently I went to cutting and hacking up on my Jeep and cut way past the pinch welds on my rear fender wells. I would like to reseal the rear quarter panels somehow. I see lots of videos of what not to do but I can't find any videos of what to do when you cut too far. any suggestions.
I would drill several small holes (about 1/4" or smaller) around the very edge of the wheel well. Clean the paint off them just enough to weld them. Then I would carefully weld the two together by filling in the holes with weld being very careful not to over heat the thin metal and warp it. This is not an easy fix (requires welding and painting) but that's how I would do it. Check with your local body shops though... They may be able to spot weld the body back together too.
Will these fade out from the sun
Considering these fenders. Trying to do my research before dropping over $400. Followed the Napier link provided. Saw this . . . "Guaranteed Shipping: We ship within 21* days on most orders or we'll pay shipping". What century are they living in?
Never have seen that but it is a small business run out of a garage so... makes since. Like burger king, made to order.
Well worth the wait
That's one way to drain it. ;)
What happened to the rear bumper piece??
did you get the new engine in yet?
On the website that say these flares come in a textured black but on camera that look glossy. I want to match my bumpers to them. My bumpers are gloss black already so would they look right or would some sort of bedliner paint match better?
Walter Lecaros the website give you the option to go textured or slick
@@logansmith4215 you can paint them too, i plan on coating mine with raptor bedliner.
I would love to put these on my Jeep but when i put the after market bumpers on i removed the rear piece of molding that wraps around the rear and both sides had baseball size rust holes in the sheet metal. I don't need anyone seeing my fiberglass repair job lol
why didn't you do the quarter panel cut and fold?
Could you have left the inner fender liners in and will it be a problem if mud and dirt gets up in there?
If you leave them in, they will require trimming and refitting. I'm not sure it's possible. It's not ideal to run without the liners, but it won't ruin your jeep or anything. Just makes it a bit harder to clean if you go mudding a lot.
We actually leave most of the liner in when we install the Flares. We cut it in half so the two pieces can shift. One forward, one to the rear to cover the gap at the door. We'll use zip screws or christmas tree inserts to hold them in place.
My xj has a cut n fold from the previous owner. Prolly 3/4 of an inch. Would these or any flares work ? Please help lol
anything will work with some slight modification! I think they do offer a cut and fold flare on their website.
@@bleepinjeep your the only one giving me hope😂😂 club xj isnt always the best for advice haha
lol. I didn't even remember what those wheel well covers looked like.
Hey, would this work on an XJ that has been cut and folded already? I've heard that you can't with Bushwacker but can with Napier. Any idea if that's true???
Felix Padilla idk about that. you have to cut way more for Napiers than you do bushwackers
They make these flares for Cherokees that are cut and folded on the rear quarters
What drill size drill bit did you use?
Napier doesn’t sell these flat fender kits any longer guess I’m out of luck.
Could you take off the fender and drill the holes that way
I think it would be harder to line it up right but you can try it you want
a flat fender for jeep comanche xj fender is different in raer fender l’m Look for a specialized shop
I need help finding a restoration shop on the east coast for my 95 cherokee.
"if ya care" lmao
Use your muscles ,liner 2 Seconds.....